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HANDBOOK 

OF 


LONDON AS IP IS. 






HANDBOOK 


TO 


LONDON 



LONDON: V 

JOHN MURBAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 

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In preparation, a New Edition revised and enlarged. 

HANDBOOK OF LONDON, Past and Present ; Being 

an Alphabetical Account of all the Remarkable Places con¬ 
nected with Historical and Antiquarian Associations. 


II. 

WESTjMINSTER abbey ; its Art, Architecture, and 
Associations. lOmo, i«. 


III. 

HANDBOOK TO THE ENVIRONS OF LONDON. 




A CAREFUL revision has been given to this work 
before presenting it again to the Public. It was 
' originally compiled by Mr. Peter Cuunirigham, but 
it is proper to state that he is not responsible for 
the present nor any recent Editions of this Book. ' 

A full historical description of London, and of 
houses and streets no longer existing, will be found 
in “ The Handbook for London, Past and Present,” 
of which a New Edition is being prepared. 

Any suggestions of errors or omissions will 
be thankfully received by the Publisher, 50, Albe¬ 
marle Street. 







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CONTENTS. 

—*•— 

FACE 

I. Intboductoby Information ... . . 9* 

II. Palaces of the Sovereign and Household Offices 1 

III. Houses op the Principal Nobility and Gentry . 9 

IV. Parks and Public Gardens.26 

V. Housf.s of Parliament ..37 

VI. The Thames, its Quays, Embankment, and its 
Bridges ; Thames Tunnel, Pool, and Port of London . 43 

VII. Government Offices.49 

VIII. Commercial Buildings and Docks . ... 62 

IX. Markets. 74 

X. Breweries.78 

XI. Water Companies.79 

XII. Main Drainage—Sewerage.80 

XIII. Tower op London.81 

XIV. Churches. 95 

XV. Cemeteries.134 

XVI. Courts of Law and Justice.137 

XVII. Inns of Court and Chancery.141 

XVIII. Prisons, Penitentiaries, and Places op Execution 147 

XIX. Permanent Free Exhibition.151 

XX. Theatres and Places of Amusement . . . . 184 

XXI. Learned Institutions.189 

XXII. Colleges and Schools . . . . 199 

XXIII. Hospitals and Charitable Institutions . . . 211 

XXIV. Club Houses .224 








8* 


CONTENTS. 


PAGE 

XXV. The City and the Citizens.231 

XXVI. Eminent Peesons boen in London , . . . . 247 

XXVII. Eminent Peesons bueied in London and vicinity . 243 
XXVIII. Houses in which eminent Peesons have lived . . 252 

XXIX. StEEETS, &C., (houses UNKNOW'N oe not standing) in 

which eminent Men have lived . . . 256 


XXX. Places and Sites connected with Kemaekable 


Events.257 

XXXI. OuT-DOOE Monuments and Public Statues . .261 


XXXII. Peincipal Thoeoughfaees, Squaees, and Lanes . 263 


Pall-Mall .... 264 
Piccadilly .... 266 
St. James’s-street . . 270 

Regent-st. and Wateiloo-pl. 272 

Holborn.274 

Strand .... 276 
Fleet-street . . . . 277 

Cheapside and I’oultry . 278 
Cornhill . . . .280 

Drary-lane . . . . 281 

Cliancery-lane . . . 282 

Oxford-st., New-rd., City-rd. 283 
Bow-street, Covent Garden . 284 
Great Queen-st., Lincohi’s- 
Inn-Fields . . . 284 

Charing Cross to Westmin¬ 
ster Abbey . . . 285 

Haymarket .... 286 
xxxiii. Index .... 


Grosvenor-place . . . 287 

Park-lane.288 

Newgate-street . . . 289 

Aldersgate-street. . . 2C0 

Fish-st.-Hill,Gracecliurch-st. 

and Bishopsgate-street . 291 
Upper and Lower Tliames-st. 292 
High-street, Southwark . 293 
The Thames . . . 294 

Belgrave-sq., Grosvenor-sq. 299 
Berkeley-sq., Portman-sq. 300 
St. James’s-sq., Hanover-sq. 301 
Cavendish-sq., Leicester-sq. 302 
Soho-sq., Bloomsbury-sq. . 303 
Bedford-sq., Russell-sq. . 304 
Covent-Garden Market, Lin- 
coln’s-Inn-Fields . • . 306 

Trafalgar-square . . . 306 

. . 307 


Eist of ^lans anti fHaps, 


Hyde Park .... 
St. James’s Park . 

Regent’s Park 

The New Houses of Parlia¬ 
ment . . . . 

Bank of England, and Offices 
for Dividends, &c. 


Tower of London . . .85 

Westminster Abbey . . . 99 

St. Paul’s Cathedral . .115 

British Museum . . . 152 

„ „ Reading Room 164 

Clue-Map of London at the 
End. 






INTRODUCTORY INFORMATION. 


1. Situation and Fogs 

2. Population and 

Traffic. 

3. Consumption of 

Food, Coal, 
Clothes, &c. &c. 

4. Political and Mu¬ 

nicipal Divisions. 

5. Social Divisions— 

the West End. 

6. The City. 

7. Great Thorough¬ 

fares running 
East and West, j 

8. Ditto running 

North and South. 

9. Railway Stations, i 

10. How to see London ! 

quickly. j 

11. How to see London 

leisurely. 

12. Its great Architec¬ 

tural Centres. 

13. The Parks. 

14. The Thames—its 

Quays (Embank- ' 
ment), Steamers, | 
Piers from West- j 


minster to Lon¬ 
don, Bridges. 

15. The Thames—from 

London Bridge 
to Gravesend. 

16. The Thames — 

from Hampton 
Court to West¬ 
minster Bridge. 

17. General Hints to 

Sti angers. The 
Season. 

18. Cabs. 

19. Omnibuses. 

20. Letters. 

21. Hotels —Inns — 

Lodgings. 

22. Where to Lunch, 

Dine, or Sup. 

23. Theatres and Ope¬ 

ras. 

24. Miscellaneous 

Exhibitions. 

25. Music. 

26. Objects of Interest 

to the Painter 
and Connoisseur. 


27. To the Sculptor. 

28. To the Architect 

and Engineer. 

29. To the Antiqua¬ 

rian. 

30. Places and Sights 

which a Stranger 
must see. 

31. Environs of Lon¬ 

don. 

32. Hints to Fo¬ 

reigners. 

33. Newspapers. 

34. Sunday Services 

and Popular 
Preachers. 

35. Studiosof the Prin¬ 

cipal Artists. 

36. Metropolitan Im¬ 

provements. 

37. London and Sub¬ 

urban Railways 
— Metropolitan, 
U nderground. 
Circuit. 


J^ONDON, the Metropolis of Great Britain and Ireland, is 
situated upon the Eiver Thames, about fifty miles from 
its mouth; the northern and larger portion lying in the 
counties of Middlesex and Essex, the southern in Surrey and 
Kent. The Metropolis is held to include the cities and 
liberties of London and Westminster, the borough of South¬ 
wark, and thirty-six adjacent parishes, precincts, townships, 
and places, including among others the extreme points of 
Hampstead, Islington, Stoke Newington, and Hackney to the 
north; Stratford-le-Bow, Limehouse, Deptford, Greenwich, 
AVoolwich, Charlton, and Plumstead to the east; Camberwell 





lo^ §§ 2, population; 3, COMMISSARIAT. [The stranger 

and Streatham to tlie south; and Kensington, Fulham, 
Hammersmith, and Putney to the west. The site is gene¬ 
rally healthy, the subsoil being, for the most part, gravel. 
The Fogs which occur in winter, especially in November, are 
due, mainly perhaps, to the large expanse of water in the 
Thames being, often at that season, warmer than the air, and 
giving forth vapour until the air is densely charged. If the 
atmosphere be still, on such occasions, the smoke from so 
many thousand chimneys is absorbed by the suspended 
vapour, and at times becomes so thick a cloud as to involve 
London in darkness even at midday. A moderate wind 
rising speedily disperses the fog, which has no dangerous 
unwholesome qualities, however disagreeable it may be. 

§ 2. The population of London, that is to say of the 36 
parishes included in the census of 1861, was 2,803,989, and 
it covered an area of 78,000 acres, equal to 122 square miles 
—more than half the area of ancient Babylon. 

§ 3. The Metropolis is supposed to consume in one year 
1,600,000 quarters of wheat, 240,000 bullocks, 1,700,000 
sheep, 28,000 calves, and 35,000 pigs. One market alone 
(Leadenhall) supplies about 4,025,000 head of game. This, 
together with 3,000,000 of salmon, irrespective of other fish 
and flesh, is washed do^vn by 43,200,000 gallons of pointer and 
ale, 2,000,000 gallons of spirits, and 65,000 pipes of wine. 
To fill its milk and cream jugs, 13,000 cows are kept. To 
light it at night, 360,000 gas-lights fringe the streets, con¬ 
suming, every 24 hours, 13,000,000 cubic feet of gas. Its 
artei'ial or water system supplies the enormous quantity of 
44,383,328 gallons per day, while its venous or sewer system 
carries off 9,502,720 cubic feet of refuse. To warm its people 
and to supply its factories, a fleet, amounting to upwards of 
a thousand sail, is employed in bringing annually 3,000,000 
tons of coal,* exclusive of 2,000,000 tons brought by rail. 
The smoke of this immense quantity of coal has been 
traced as far as Reading, 32 miles’ d'stance. At Slough it 
was often so dense that the elder Herschel was unable to 
take observations. The tliirsty souls of London need have 
no fear of becoming thirstier as long as there are upwards 


* See Coal Exciiangk. 


in London.] 


§ 3. TRADES AND PROFESSIONS. 


Il4S= 


of 4000 public-houses and 1000 wine merchants to minister 
to their deathless thirst. The bread to this enormous 
quantity of sack is represented by 2500 bakers, 1700 
butchers, not including pork butchers, 2600 tea-dealers 
and grocers, 1260 coffee-room keepers, nearly 1500 dairy¬ 
men, and 1350 tobacconists. To look after the digestion 
of this enormous amount of food upwards of 2400 duly 
licensed practitioners, surgeons and physicians, are daily 
running to and fro through this mighty metropolis, whose 
patients, in due course of time and physic, are handed over 
to the tender mercies of 500 undertakers. Nearly 3000 
boot and shoe-makers add their aid to that of the doctor to 
keep our feet dry and warm, while 2950 tailors do as much 
for the rest of our bodies. The wants of the fairer portion 
of the population are supplied by 1080 linendrapers, 1560 
milliners and dress-makers, not including those poor crea¬ 
tures who stitch over ‘‘seam and gusset and band” without 
hope, and often without recompense. 1540 private schools 
take charge of our children ; and, let us add, that 290 pawn¬ 
brokers’ shops find employment and profit out of the re¬ 
verses, follies, and vices of the community. About 300,000 
houses give shelter to upwards of two millions and a half 
of people, whose little differences are aggravated or settled 
by upwards of 3000 attorneys and 3900 barristers. The 
spiritual wants of this mighty aggregate of human souls are 
cared for by 930 clergymen and dissenting ministers, who 
respectively preside over 429 churches and 423 chapels, of 
which latter buildings the Independents have 121, the Bap¬ 
tists 100, the Wesleyans 77, the Roman Catholics 29, the 
Calvinists and English Presbyterians 10 each, the Quakers 
7, and the Jews 10; the numerous other sects being con¬ 
tent with numbers varying from one to five each. 

§ 4. The first and most natural action of a stranger, upon his 
first visit to London, is to consult a Map—-just as he scans 
narrowly the face of a new acquaintance. Let the reader, 
therefore, open the Clue Map at the end of this volume, 
while I describe to him its main divisions and characteristic 
features. 

The City of London proper is that space which anciently 
lay within the walls and liberties, having for its base the 


12^ 


§ 5. WEST END. 


[The Stranger 


N. bank of the Thames, its W. line extending to Middle 
Temple-lane, where, crossing Fleet-street at Temple Bar 
(the only City barrier I’emaining), and Holbom at South- 
ampton-buildings, it afterwards skirts Smithfield, Bai'bican, 
and Finsbury-circus on the N., crossing the end of Bishops- 
gate-street Without; and then, pursuing its way southward 
down Petticoat-lane, across the end of Aldgate-street, and 
along the Minories, it finally reaches the Thames at the 
Tower. This portion of London sends four members to 
Parliament, possesses a corporation,—the oldest, richest, 
and most powerful municipal body in the world,—and is 
divided into 108 parishes, of which 97 are called ‘‘ Without,” 
and 11 “Within,” the Avails. The population of the has 
diminished from 129,869, in 1851, to 113,387 in 1861, owing 
to so many houses being converted from dwellings into 
ofllces, shops, &c., occupied only in the day-time, by mer¬ 
chants, tradesmen, clerks, &c., who live at the West End or 
in the suburbs. The number of its inhabited houses is 
14,580: their annual rental is £2,109,935. Since 1830 the 
greater part of the city has been rebuilt, and in all cases 
very superior houses have been substituted for inferior. 
2000 houses are left at night tenantless in the charge of the 
police alone—608 men in all. 

The of IVesfnumfei' (now SAvalloAA'ed up in London) 
possesses no municipality, and though far more populous 
than “the City,” containing 26,400 inhabited houses, and 
253,985 inhabitants, sends only tAvo members to Parlia¬ 
ment. Its E. line coincides Avith the W. line of the 
City of London. From its Tottenham-court end to its 
suburban limit at Kensington Gardens, it is bounded to 
the K. by Oxford-street; and on its far W. side, crossing 
the centre of the Serpentine in Hyde Park, it reaches the 
Thames at Chelsea Hospital. 

The Metropolitan Boroughs, viz., Marylebone, Finsbury, 
Tower Hamlets, north of the Thames, and SouthAvark and 
Lambeth, south of it, return each two members to the House 
of Commons. To these Avill be added Hackney and Chelsea, 
by the Pteform Bill of 1867. 

§ 5. The social and fashionable divisions of London differ 


in London.] 


^ 5. TYBURNIA.—BELGRAVIA. 


13 * 


materially from the municipal and parliamentary divisions. 
Thus, the social centre of Modern London is Temple Bar; 
the commercial centre the Bank of England; and the cab 
centre, Charing Ci’oss. That part of London which radiates 
from Hyde Pai’k Corner includes the mansions of many of 
the nobility, the leading Club-houses, many well-inhabited 
streets, the most fashionable square in London (Grosvenor- 
square), and two districts, commonly known by the new- 
coined names of Tyhumia and Belgravia. 

Tyburnia, or the northern wing, is that vast city, in point 
of size, which the increasing wealth and population of Lon¬ 
don have caused to be erected, between 1839 and 1850, on 
the green fields and nursery gardens of the See of London’s 
estate at Paddington. Built at one time, and nearly on one 
principle, it assumes in consequence a regularity of appearance 
contrasting strangely vdth the older portions of Modern 
London. Fine squares, connected by spacious streets, aiid 
houses of great altitude, give a certain air of nobility to 
the district. The sameness, however, caused by endless 
repetitions of “ compo ” decorations, distresses the eye, 
and puzzles the resident in London nearly as much as it 
does the stranger. Tyburnia is principally inhabited by 
professional men, the great City merchants, including many 
representatives of Greek house.s, a very wealthy commi;uity, 
and by those who are undergoing the transitional state be¬ 
tween commerce and fashion. Its boundaries may be said to 
be the Edgeware-road on the E., Bayswater on the W., Maida- 
hill on the IST., and Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens on 
the S. Magnificent terraces, squares, atid streets now entirely 
surround Hyde Park and Kensington Gai’dens, and London 
has spread without interruption to Kensington, Nottiug Hill, 
and Paddington. 

Belgravia, or the southern wing of the West End, a creation 
of about twenty-five years, 1826-52, is built on laud belonging 
to the Marquis of Westminster, bounded by Grosvenor- 
place on the E,, Sloane-street on the W., Knightsbridge on 
the N., and by the Thames on the S. E. This space in¬ 
cludes Belgrave and Eaton Squares, whose houses, palatial 
in character and size, denote the high social position of 
their occupants. Regularity and largeness of proportion 


14* § 5. SOUTH KENSINGTON.—BELGRAVIA. [The Stranger 

are the leading characteristics of this fashionable neigh¬ 
bourhood. Since 1852 it has extended to Chelsea and 
Pimlico New Bridge, and includes the vast Victoria llailway 
Station. 

Contiguous to Belgravia lie Brompton and Chelsea, 
Brompton, lying low, and the air being moist and warm, is 
the resort of consumptive persons. Attached to Brompton 
has risen, since 1854, a new quarter, South Kensington, com¬ 
posed of some splendid rows and streets, and including the 
South Kensington Museum, and the Horticultural Garden. 
The once rural Chelsea is crowded with poor. Close to 
Belgravia on its S. E. side lies Westminster proper, like the 
beggar at the rich man’s gate. Piivate liberality has at¬ 
tempted to cure the plague spot by the ei'ection of four 
or five churches, and the formation of a spacious street 
(Victoria-street) through the very centre of Tothill-fields. 
Part of Westminster lies beneath the level of the Thames at 
high water. 

To the N.E. of Tybuniia lies the Regent's Parh district, 
extending from the north side of Oxford-street to Camden 
Town and Somers Town, and including Marylebone proper 
(with its 375,000 inhabitants), and the still well-inhabited 
Portman, Manchester, and Cavendish Squares. Here, with 
a few solitary exceptions, dwells Middle-Class London. 
Still further E. we come to the Bloomshury and Bedford 
square district, with its well-built houses and squares 
erected between 1790 and 1810, and, till the great removal 
towards the west in 1828, a much better frequented neigh¬ 
bourhood than it is at present. This portion of the Metropolis 
is chiefiy occupied by lawyers and merchants ; its noble 
mansions no longer holding, as formerly (between 1796 and 
1825), the rank and fashion of the Town. Somewhat E. (and in 
the same Bloomsbury and Bedford Square district) we recog¬ 
nise the architecture of the era of Anne, in the capacious 
dwellings of Great Ormond-street and Queen-square, now 
given up for the most part to lodging-house keepers; and, 
still stepping eastward, are traces of the continuation from 
Great Queen-street, Lincoln’s-Inn-fields, of that westward 
march which fashion has taken within the last 150 years. 

S. of Oxford Street is the Covent Garden and Strand 
district; with the exception of streets running at right angles 


n London.] 


§ 6. THE CITY. 


15# 


from it to the Thames, principally occupied by shops and 
lodging-houses, and west of it is the very low Leicester-sqiiare 
neighbourhood, chiefly inhabited by foreigners. 


§ 6. The principal streets in the City of London are built 
in the style that prevailed between 1666 and 1800; dingy 
brick, except where stately avenues like King William- 
street, Cannon-street, and others, have been pierced through 
the labyrinth of narrow lanes. The streets for the most part 
are narrow and inconvenient, as is observable in all walled 
cities where space was precious ; of picturesqueness there is 
none, unless we consider the interiors of many of the palaces 
of the old merchant princes, now converted into counting- 
houses and chambers. With the exception of the modern¬ 
ised portions, there is just as little of convenience or of 
beauty. Wren, under whose direction the City was rebuilt 
after the Great Fire in 1666, originally intended to have 
laid out the streets in a regular manner : the principal 
thoroughfares radiating from St. Paul’s with a width of not 
less than 70 feet. But economy carried the day against his 
magnificent design, and the City arose as we now see it. 
To the antiquary it presents few features of interest; to the 
architect only the chiirches built by Wren and his pupils, 
and one or two more modem public buildings. 

“The City” is, par excellence, the head-quarters of the trade 
and commerce of the country. Here everything is brought 
to a focus, and every interest has its representative. In 
Lincoln’s Inn and the Temple the lawyers find the quiet 
and retirement congenial to their pursuits. In the great 
thoroughfares, retail trade is triumphant. In the narrow, dim 
lanes, which scarce afibrd room for carriages to pass each 
other, the wholesale Manchester warehouses are congregated. 
In Thames-street and its immediate vicinity, commerce is re¬ 
presented by its Custom House, its Corn Exchange, its Coal 
Exchange, and its great wharfs. The fish and foreign fruit 
trades dwell in the thronged thoroughfare of Thames-street. 
In Lombard-street the money power is enthroned. It is 
chiefly occupied by Bankers. In Houndsditch the Jews most 
do congregate. In Paternoster-row and its neighbourhood, 
booksellers are located. St. Paul’s forms the religious ele¬ 
ment of this strange compound of interests. The Exchange 


§ 6. THE CITY. 


[The Strange 


16# 


and the Bank, placed side by side, might be likened to the two 
ventricles of the great City heart; and grouped around, from 
first floor to garret in almost* every house, are the offices 
of the Brokers who form the agents for the circulation of 
the world’s wealth. Yet this spot, teeming by day with its 
hundreds of thousands, its streets gorged by carriages, cabs, 
and carts, presents at night, and still more on a Sunday, 
the spectacle of a deserted city. The banks closed, and 
the post gone,—the railway carriage, the omnibus, and the 
steam-boat, carry the clerks to the outskirts, and the mer¬ 
chants and principals to their villas and mansions at Clap- 
ham, Hackney, or the West End. The actual resident 
population of the City is diminishing, and many of its 58 
churches—each parish having been provided, by the piety 
of our ancestors, with its own church—are nearly empty on 
Sundays. Still the value of land for offices and warehouses 
is immensely increased, and it appeared, from legal valuations 
in 1866, that the ground near St. Paul’s and the Boyal 
Exchange has been sold at a rate not far below 1,000,000^. 
an acre. Sums varying from 20Z. to 37^. the square foot are 
commonly given. 

That space without the limits of tlie City i^roper which 
includes the N. bank of the river Thames as far as Blackwall, 
is occupied by docks, wharfs, manufactories, and wai’ehouses, 
and inhabited by slop-sellers, crimps, and sailors. Everything 
here has reference to maritime affairs. N. of this district lies 
Spitalfields and Bethnal through which the Eastern Coun¬ 

ties Kailway reveals to the traveller the crowded dwellings of 
the silk-weavers, readily distinguishable by the large garret 
windows, through which their hand-looms may be seen at 
work. The once rural Islington, to the H,, is mostly inhabited 
by the middle classes, and those imnaediately beneath them 
in the social scale. It lies high, and is considered one of the 
healthiest portions of the metropolis. The densely peopled 
district of Clerkenwell (west of Islington and north-east of 
Lincoln’s-Inn-fields) is occupied by some of the best-paid 
and best-informed artisans in London. 

If we cross to the Surrey side of the Thames, we come to 
the boroughs of SoutJnoarJc and Lambeth, the former, including 
Bermondsey, the great seat of the tanning trade ; the latter 
principally occupied by manufactories. Shadwell and Bother- 


Hyde Park 


iu London.] §§ 7,8.MATN THOROUGHFARES NORTH & SOUTH. 7 

liitlie are the head-quarters of sailors, and are but meanly 
built and inhabited—indeed the whole of the right bank of 
the Thames at London is much inferior in wealth and import¬ 
ance to that portion lying on the left or Middlesex shore. 

§ 7. To enable the visitor to find his w’ay from point to point, 
his best plan will be to study the Clue Map at the end of 
this volume, and fix in his mind the direction of the great 
thoroughfares. These generally run from E. to W., and 
from N. to S. The great E. and W. lines of streets are 
those which lead from either side of Hyde Park to the 
Bank, and then fork off again, and terminate in the remote 
E. of the metropolis, foi'ming a design somewhat in the 
shape of an hour-glass. 



To the N. of these lines sweep the New and City Roads, 
which run like a boulevard almost completely round the N. 
and E. of the metropolis. On the S. side of the river, Stam- 
ford-street and the York-road follow for a mile the curve of 
the river, and, together with the New Cut and its continua¬ 
tions, intersect the different roads leading from the bridges. 

§ 8. In the West End, the main thoroughfares running 
N. and S. are the Edgeware-road, leading from the W. end of 
Oxford-street to St. John’s-wood; Portland-place and Regent- 
street, running from Regent’s Park to Charing-cross; Hamp¬ 
stead and Tottenbam-court Roads, connecting Hampstead 
with Holborn. The City is brought into connection with 
its northern suburbs by Gray’s Inn-lane, whieh runs from 
Holborn-hill to the New-road ; by Aldersgate-street and 
Goswell-street, which lead in a direct line from the Post 
Ofl&ce to the Angel at Islington; and by Gracechurch- 
street, Bishopsgate-street, Norton-folgate, and Shoreditch, 
connecting Kingsland and Hoxton with London Bridge and 
Southwark. 

b 




§ 9. RAILWAY STATIONS, ETC. 


[The Stranger 


i8* 


On the Southwark and Lambeth, or Surrey side of the 
Thames and the Metropolis, the roads converge from the 
six bridges to the well-known tavern, the Elephant and 
Castle, which is about equidistant from all of them 
(excepting Vauxhall Bridge); from the tavern they again 
diverge, the Kent-road leading to Greenwich, and the 
Kennington and Newington Roads leading to Brixton and 
Tulse Hill, outskirts of London, studded with the villas and 
cottages of men “ upon ’Change.” 

The streets of the Metropolis, about 2800 in number, would, 
if put together, extend 3000 miles in length. The main 
thoroughfares are traversed by 1200 omnibuses, and 3500 
cabs (besides private cari’iages and carts), employing 40,000 
horses. 

In addition to these noisy and thronged thoroughfares, we 
have what has been called ‘'the silent highway” of the Thames, 
running through the heart of the Metropolis, and traversed 
continually by steamboats and barges. The steamboats take 
up and set down passengers at the different landing-places 
between Chelsea and Blackwall, Greenwich and Graves¬ 
end, and, when the tide serves, run as high as Hampton 
Court, calling at all the intermediate landing-places on the 
banks. 


§ 9. Railway Stations or Termini in London :— 
Great Western—Paddington. 


London and North Western 


( Euston-square; New-road; 
{ Liverpool-street, City. 


Great Northern—King’s-cross. 

Great Eastern—Shoreditch (and Finsbury-circus). 

South Western—Waterloo-road, Lambeth, 

[ Cannon-street : London- 


South Eastern 




bridge; Charing-cross. 


Croydon and Epsom. 

Crystal Palace . 

London and Brighton . 


Victoria Station, Pimlico; 
London-bridge. 


London, Chatham, and Dover-f ^ 

L Ludgate Hill. 

. Vi. / 1 ,v (Farringdon-street, 

Metropolitan (undorground)... j MoorgL-etreet. 





in London.] §§ IQ, 11. UOW TO SEE LONDON, ETC. I 9 * 

Electric, Telegraph .—The Metropolis is put in instant con- 
iiection with the chief cities and towns of the United King¬ 
dom by the wires converging from the different stations 
to the Central Telegi'aph Offices at Lothbury (East), and 
Charing-cross (West), where messages are received and 
transmitted throughout the day. {See below § 17-) 

From London Bridge, St. Katherine wharf^ and from 
Tower-stairs, the various Continental steamboats start. From 
London Bridge, the Margate and Eamsgate boats start, 
making, in the season, excursions on the Sunday to those 
places and back the same day. 

§ 10. The stranger can comprehend, in the quickest way, 
the most remarkable features of the Metropolis, and in an 
economical manner, by taking the box-seat of an omnibus, 
and making friends with the, driver. Let him take, for in¬ 
stance, a Kensington omnibus, and go as far eastward as the 
Bank. In this manner he will make himself acquainted, by 
the driver’s help, with the characteristic features of Picca¬ 
dilly with its noble mansions, and of the great thoroughfares 
of the Strand, Fleet-street, and Cheapside. If he has a wish 
to penetrate the far east, he can do so by taking a Blackwall 
omnibus, but the journey would hardly repay him for his 
time and trouble, unless he desire to see the Docks. The 
return didve might be made by a Paddington omnibus, which 
will take him through Holborn, New Oxford and Oxford 
Streets, as far as the Marble Arch at Cumberland Gate. A 
direct N. and S. section of the Metropolis might be viewed 
by taking a “Waterloo” omnibus, which starts from the 
York and Albany Tavern, Eegent’s Park, and pursues the 
line do-^ Eegent-street, past Charing-cross, and so along the 
Strand over Waterloo Bridge; also by an “Atlas” omnibus, 
Avhich traverses the same line as far as Charing-cross, and 
then turns down Whitehall, and goes along Parliament-street 
across Westminster Bridge to the Elephant and Castle. These 
three routes, if followed up by an excursion on the Thames 
from Chelsea to GreenAvich, Avould show at a rapid glance 
most of the architectural features of the Metropolis. 

§ 11. For those who have ample time to examine the 
public buildings, Ave Avould recommend a Avalk from London 
Bridge W. to Ti\afalgar-square; then an examination of 

h 2 


20* § 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. [The Stranger 

Whitehall, Pall-mall, and Eegent-street, forming the irregular 
cross which spi-ings from Trafalgar-square. By this means 
the visitor will pass the six gi’eat centres of life and archi¬ 
tecture which distinguish the Metropolis. 

Another walk—by which many interesting aspects and 
prospects of London may be obtained—is to “ thread the 
Bridges;” commencing with that of Westminster, from 
which the Parliament Houses are well seen, then crossing 
Hungerford and recrossing by Waterloo, Stamford Street 
leads thence to Blackfriars, whence you have the best view 
of St. Paul’s, and after traversing Southwark Bridge, you 
find your way along the Surrey bank of the Thames to 
London Bridge. 

§ 12. The/rs^ of these great centres—London Bridge—is 
the one a Foreigner naturally sees first, and it is the spot above 
all others calculated to impress him most with the importance 
and ceaseless activity of London. The bridge itself—crowded 
with an ever-moving stream of people and vehicles, and 
lined at the same time with the heads of curious spectators, 
gazing upon the busy waters below—is a curious picture of 
the manner in which the two cuiTents of business-men and 
sight-seers are continually shouldering each othei\ On the 
other hand, the scene below is equally instinct with life. A hove 
bridge we see the stairs of the penny steamboats, landing and 
taking in West-End or Greenwich passengers, amid a perfect 
din of bell-ringing and cloud of steam-blowing. Below bridge 
we see the “ Pool,” looking, with its fleets of colliers moored 
in the stream, like the avenues of a forest in the leafless 
winter. The Custom-house, with its long columniated fa 9 ade, 
and the Italian-looking fish-market at Billingsgate, also strike 
the eye. The foot of the bridge, on either hand, is flanked 
with great buildings — the Fishmongers’ Hall, belonging to 
one of the richest of the City companies. Passing up Fish- 
street-hill is seen, from base to summit, the Monument, erected 
to commemorate the Great Fire—still the most beautiful 
and picturesque of all the metropolitan columns. A little 
farther on, William IV.’s statue, worked in granite, stands 
guard at the entrance of King-William-street and Cannon- 
street, leading thoroughfares opened since 1834, and occupies 
very nearly the site of the famous Boar's Head Tavern 


in London.] § 12 . ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. 21* 

ia Eastclieap. At the end of this we approach our second 
arcliitectural centre—the Bank of England, a low, richly- 
adorned building — admirably adapted to the purposes of 
its foundation. The open space at this point is sur¬ 
rounded by several sticking architectural elevations. The 
Iloyal Exchange, the Sun Fire-ofi&ce, the Mansion-house, 
and the towers of the church of St. Maiy Woolnoth, mark 
the sky-line in a most picturesque manner; nor can the 
equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, in front of 
the Exchange, fail to attract attention. The narrow passage 
of the Poultry, by which Cheapside is reached, has no 
feature of interest. Passing King-street, however, the pseudo- 
Gothic front of Guildhall, standing full in the light at the 
end of King-street, strikes one as picturesque, notwith¬ 
standing the viciousness of its style; while in Cheapside 
the stately steeple of Bow Church •• (Wren’s finest steeple) 
never fails to arrest the attention of the stranger. Out of 
the comparative narrowness of Cheapside, the visitor will 
emerge (left) into St. Paul’s-churchyard and the Cathedral, 
and (right) upon the Post Ofiice, our third great centre of 
life and architecture. The Cathedral is Wren’s great master¬ 
piece; the Post Office was built by Sir R. Smirke. 

From St. Paul’s, along Fleet-street and the Strand, we 
gradually see how the characteristic features of one city 
mingle with those of the other. In our way we pass under 
Temple Bar, and pass Somerset House (one of the head¬ 
quarters of the Civil Service) on our left. The counting- 
houses of the “City” (it is easy to observe) have slowly dis¬ 
appeared, and the shops have a gayer and more miscellaneous 
aspect. At last Charing-cross is reached, and we recognise 
at once our fourth architectural centre of the great West 
End, from which improvement has shot out on every side. 
Standing on the raised platform beneath the portico of the 
National Gallery, we see before us the towers of the Houses 
of Parliament, and the perspective of the leading Govern¬ 
ment offices forming a line of street by themselves; on the 
left hand is the beautiful church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, 
and on the right the vista of Pall-mall, with its splendid 
Club-houses. Well might the late Sir R. Peel designate 
Charing-cross as “the finest site in Europe.” The square 
itself, with its ugly fountains and its ill-proportioned 


22* § 12 . ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. [The Stranger 

column, will require entirely remodelling before it can be 
worthy of its position, and we have purposely turned our 
visitor 8 back to the National Gallery that he may not be 
offended with its meanness. Charing-cross may claim to be 
called the centre of the arts, as the Bank is the centre of 
commerce. 

Turning directly down Whitehall, we approach that 
portion of Westminster devoted to the principal Government 
offices and the Legislature; on the right hand is the Ad¬ 
miralty (distinguished by its screen and portico), from which 
the fleets of England are governed ; a little further on is 
the Horse Guards, the head-quarters of the Commander-iu- 
Chief. The long range of buildings still further on the 
right (refronted by Sir Charles Barry) consists of the Home 
Office, the Privy Council Office, and the Treasury, all under 
one roof ; and the little narrow street fonning a cul de sac, 
which terminates it, is the world-famous Downing-street, 
containing the official residences of the Prime Minister, and 
the Secretaries of State for Foreign and Colonial Affairs. 
One side of this is pulled down, and on its site will soon 
rise the magnificent Public Offices designed by G. G. Scott, 
extending to St. James’s Park, which gave rise to the 
struggle known as the “Battle of the Styles.” Nearly 
opposite to the Horse Guards is the Banqueting-house of 
the Old Palace of Whitehall, the masterpiece of Inigo Jones ; 
in front of which King Charles I. was beheaded. 

The fifth great architectural centre of the Metropolis is 
at the end of Parliament-street. Here the Church, the Law, 
and the Legislature, are represented : the first in the noble 
old Abbey, the second in the Courts of Westminster Hall, 
and the third in the New Parliament Houses, whose towers, 
rising to a gigantic height, break in from point to point 
upon the sight. This spot, indeed, might be considered the 
intellectual centre of the Metropolis. Within so small a 
space the earth perhaps holds not so many distinguished 
men amongst the living and the dead. 

Retracing our steps down Parliament-street we come to 
Waterloo-place, our sixth architectural centre, not inaptly 
called the centre of social and political life. Here we are in 
the heart of Club-land. Looking towards the Duke of York’s 
Column, which terminates the view, we have on our right 


in London.] 


§12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. 


23* 


hand the Athenreum, chiefly frequented by literary men; on 
the left, and exactly opposite it, the United Service Club, 
whose members are naval and military veterans. Next to the 
Athenaeum, which stands at the commencement of Pall-mall 
West, is the Travellers’. The Reform, which is observable 
from its gi’eat size and from its Italian architecture, stands 
next in order. To the Reform succeeds the Carlton, the 
head-quarters of the Conservatives, a stately building, dis¬ 
tinguished by its polished granite pillai’s. The Oxford and 
Cambridge and the Guards’ Club houses complete this side 
of Club-land. On the north, or opposite side, at the corner 
turning into St. James’s-squai’e, is the Army and Navy Club. 

At the bottom of St. James’s-street stand Marlborough 
House, of red brick, and St. James’s Palace, a dingy but 
picturesque old builduig full of historical associations. 
Ascending the street, on the left-hand side are seen the 
Conservative Club, Arthur’s, and Bi'ooks’s (the Whig head¬ 
quarters), whilst near the top is the once famous or 
infamous Crockford’s, now a dining tavern, and called 
“ The Wellington.” “White’s” and “Boodle’s,” fashionable 
political Clubs, and principally resorted to by elderly 
country gentlemen, stand on the opposite side near the top. 
The stranger should endeavour to procure oi’ders (given by 
members) to see some of these Clubs, especially the Reform, 
famous for its central hall, and its kitchen planned by M. 
Soyer. The staircases and apartments of the Carlton, The 
Conservative, and Army and Navy Clubs, are very beautiful. 

Returning to Watei’loo-place, after noticing for a few 
moments the noble park front of Carlton-terrace, which 
stands upon the site of Carlton House, the visitor should 
ascend Regent-street. This street was built by Nash during 
the regency of George IV., and was the fix’st great improve¬ 
ment of the Metropolis since the days of Wren. A few 
years since, a piazza covered in the footways on both sides 
of that part of it called the Quadrant; and the double curve 
of columns thus formed had a noble effect. The lath-and- 
plaster style of Nash’s architecture in Regent-street has 
given rise to the reproach that it cannot stand either wind 
or weather. Nevertheless, it is the brightest and most 
cheerful street in the Metropolis; and its sunny side, with 
its shops (many of wliich ai’e French) filled with elegancies 


24 * §§ 13 , 14 . THE PARKS AND THAMES. [The Stranger 

of all kinds, especially those pertaining to the female toilet, 
is one of the liveliest promenades in the Metropolis between 
the hours of 3 and 6 o’clock in the afternoon, Portland- 
place, a wide monotonous street, forms the continuation of 
Kegent-street, and terminates in Park-crescent, a fine sweep 
of houses on either side forming the entrance to the 
Regent’s Park. 

When the visitor has well surveyed the routes pointed 
out, presenting an irregular pattern-card of almost every 
style, he will have made himself master of the entire street 
architecture of London. 

To compi-ehend at a glance the immense amount of busi¬ 
ness done in London as a Port, I would suggest a walk 
along Thames-street and Tooley-street, whose gigantic ware¬ 
houses keep the thoroughfare in a perpetual gloom, and 
whose cranes hold in mid air during the day the varied 
produce of the world. The Custom-house-quay, wdth its 
long room; Billingsgate-market, the Coal-market close at 
hand, St. Katherine’s and the London Docks, might all be 
taken in the walk. 

§ 13. The Paries of the Metropolis, not inaptly called the 
lungs of London, are six in number, and chiefly in the West 
End. St. James’s Park, the Green Park, Hyde Park, and 
Kensington Gardens, lie so close to each other, that one may 
walk from Charing-cross, the very heart of the Metropolis, to 
Bayswater, a distance of three miles, scarcely taking one’s 
feet off the sod. These three parks enclose London on 
its W. side; whilst Regent’s Park lies to the N.W., Victoria 
Park to the N.E., and Battersea Park, a beaulifull}" kept 
flowex’-garden, with fine sheet of watei’, cricket grounds, &c., 
on the Thames, opposite to Chelsea, to the S. W. Besides these 
open spaces, which are beautifully laid out, the ventilation 
of the Great Babylon is in some degree provided for by its 
numerous squares, some of them of large extent, and planted 
with trees; and by its Botanic Gardens, Cemetei’ies, and 
Nui’sei'ies; which, taken together, occupy many hundred 
aci’es of ground. 

§ 14. The Thames. —Steamers on the Thames, belonging 
to different Companies, ply up and down the I'iver for a fare 
varying from Id. to 3d. and 6d. according to distance, be- 


in London.] § 14. THE THAMES AND ITS BRIDGES. 2$* 

tween Chelsea and London Bridge—fares in proportion for 
greater distances, up to Richmond and down to Greenwich. 


LIST OF STEAMBOAT PIERS BELOW BRIDGE. 

London Bridge Pier. —Close to Brighton and Dover Railway; 
the Monument; Billingsgate; and not far from the Bank 
and Royal Exchange ; Tower. 

Thames Tunnel Pier. 

Deptford Pier. 

Greenwich Pier. 

Black-wall Pier. 

Woolwich Pier. 


PIERS ABOVE LONDON BRIDGE. 


St. PauVs Pier —near to— 
Blackfriars „ „ 

Temjde „ „ 

Waterloo „ „ 

Hungerford „ „ 

Westminster Bridge Pier 

Lambeth „ „ 

Vauxhall Bridge „ 

Battersea Station „ 

Battersea Park „ 

Cadogan Pier „ 

Old Battersea Bridge „ 


St. Paul’s; Post Office. 

Bridge Street; Fleet Street. 

The Temple; Temple Bar. 

Somerset House; Strand; Covent Garden. 

Charing Cross; National Gallery; Lei¬ 
cester Square. 

Houses of Parliament; Westminster Ab¬ 
bey ; Public Offices ; Law Courts. 

Palace. 

Belgravia; Hyde Park Corner. 

Railway to Crystal Palace. 

The New Park. 

Cheyne Walk;]ChelseaHospltal; Interna¬ 
tional Exhibition about 1^ mile distant. 

Cremorne Gardens. 


Having traversed the principal streets, let us take boat 
with our visitor and show him the river Thames thorough¬ 
fare of the Metropolis, which displays, in a more complete 
manner perhaps than any other, what London really is, both 
in extent and character. Taking one of the penny steamers 
at Westminster Bridge, he sees before him several specimens 
of that bridge architecture w^hich has made London so 
famous. Westminster Bridge, under wdiose broad shadow 
he for a moment rests, was rebuilt 1859-62 of iron, in keep¬ 
ing with the adjacent Houses of Parliament. 

The banks of the river on either side of Westminster 
Bridge are, for some distance, occupied by coal barges, mud- 
banks, a few good houses, some mean wharfs, and many still 
meaner buildings, but will shortly be bordered by Quays 
worthy the river and metropolis. As we descend the 
stream, Hungerford Railway Bridge, starting on the Mid¬ 
dlesex shore from the Charing Cross Station, close to the 
Water Gate * of York-house, next crosses the widest portion 


* In truth not Inigo Jones’s, but Nicholas Stone’s, mason and carver. 


§ 15. “the tool.” 


[The Strangpr 


26 ''^ 


of the Thames. Then is seen the Adelphi-teiTace, built bj" 
the brothers Adam—in the centre house of which lived and 
died David Garrick. Lower down is Waterloo Bridge, with 
its nine arches, the centre one having a span of 120 feet. 
This bridge, which is perfectly level, and built of the finest 
gi’anite, is certainly a noble structure, and well becomes 
the fine fagade of Somerset House, rising from a terrace 
immediately be 3 mnd it, on the left bank, and extending 400 
feet along the river. Still farther down, on the same shore, 
the pleasant Temple Gardens are seen on the left, green and 
fiom-ishing, amid the surrounding blackness of the City. The 
two Blackfriars Bridges, over which rises the stately dome of 
St. Paul’s, are next passed ; then comes “ the thick ” of the 
City, on the left bank, and the sky is penetrated by the spires 
of numerous churches, surmounted by the grand dome of 
St. Paul’s, indicating by their numbers the ancestral piety of 
London. Two iron lattice bridges, to carry the Chatliam and 
Dover and Charing Cross railways, thrust themselves across ; 
and between them Southwark Bridge, built of iron, remark¬ 
able for its central arch, of 240 feet spau, the widest curved 
arch in the world. 

London Bridge, the lowest or most seawai’d of the metro¬ 
politan bridges, with its five granite arches crossing the 
Thames, divides London into “above” and “below” bridge. 
“ Above bridge,” the traffic of the river consists of coal barges, 
—bright-coloured and picturesque Thames hoys, laden with 
straw,—and the crowded penny and twopenny steamboats, 
darting along with almost railway rapidity. Immediately 
the arches of London Bridge are shot, the scene is at once 
changed. The visitor finds himself in a vast estuary crowded 
with ships as far as the eye can reach. Many great com¬ 
mercial establishments and the principal Docks of London 
lie on the left bank of the Thames, “ below ” bridge. The 
Fish-market (Billingsgate), and the Coal Exchange, are 
rapidly passed, after which the Tower, square and massive, 
with its irregular out-buildings, and its famous Traitor’s-gate, 
may be said to terminate the boundary of the City. 

§ 15. The Bool commences just below London Bridge, where 
the river is divided into two channels by the treble range of 
colliers and other vessels anchored in it to discharge their 


inLona.m.] § lo. FROM “ THE POOL ” TO GRAVESEND. 27 * 

cargoes—the city of London deriving its chief income from 
a tax of Is. Id per ton levied on coals consumed in the 
metropolis and its vicinity. Only a certain number of these 
dingy-looking colliers are admitted into the “ Pool” at once, 
the remainder waiting in “ the Lower Pool ” until the flag 
which denotes that it is full is lowered, when those enter 
that are flrst in rank. The greatest order and regularity in 
marshalling these coal fleets is absolutely necessary to avoid 
choking the water-way. A little below the Tower of London 
• are the St. Katherine’s Docks, inclosed by warehouses, over 
which the masts of the larger shipping are observable. The 
London Docks succeed, and in connection with them are 
the wine vaults, in which as many as 65,000 pipes of wine 
can be stowed. Just past the flrst entrance to these docks, 
the steamer passes over the Thames Tunnel. On the opposite 
shore is the Grand Surrey Dock, devoted, together with the 
Commercial and Greenland Docks, to the timber and corn 
trades. 

A little below the Pool, where the river takes an abrupt 
bend in its course at Limehouse-reach, is one of the entrances 
to the West India Docks. These docks run right across the 
base of the tongue of land called the Isle of Dogs, and open 
into Blackwall-reach; and the crowd of masts seen across 
the pasturage looks like a grove of leafless trees. 

Deptford (on the right hand as you pass down Limehouse- 
reach) is a government dockyard and the seat of the 
victualling department, which every stranger should see. 
There are always several ships of war, steamers and others, 
lying off the wharf; and underneath its vast building sheds, 
the ribs of some future man-of-war are generally to be seen 
growing up under the busy hammers of the shipwrights. 
The steamer has scarce passed Deptford when the Seaman’s 
Hospital-ship, the hulk of a 120-gun ship, rears itself out of 
the water, affording a noble example of the size and power 
of a first-rate man-of-war. This old ship stands as a kind 
of outwork to Greenwich Hospital, whose noble cupolas and 
double range of columniated buildings rise just beyond, a 
worthy dwelling for our decayed old naval worthies, and 
a noble monument of the genius of Wren. Few places 
are more picturesque than Greenwich as you descend the 
river. The old irregularly built town and the palace-like 


28 * § 16 . THE THAMES ABOVE BRIDGE. [The Stranger 

hospital are backed by the rising ground of Greenwicii Park 
with its splendid sweet-chestnut trees, and crowned by the 
Observatory, from wliich place the Saxon race throughout 
the world marks its longitude. The exact time is shown to 
the shipping below by the fall, every day at one, of a large 
black ball, which slides down a mast surmounting the top 
of the building; by this means the thousand mariners in 
the river below have a daily opportunity of testing the 
accuracy of their chronometers. 

Opposite Greenwich are many busy and noisy Ship¬ 
builders' yards, who make the air ring with the din of 
hammer upon iron. Here, in the yard of the Millwall 
Company, employing 4000 men, was built the great Colos¬ 
sus of the sea, “ The Great Eastern Steam Ship,” and the 
“ Northumberland ” iron-cased ship-of-war. 

Below Greenwich the river for some distance is dull enough, 
low flat shores extending on either side, until Blackwall is 
I'eached, with its Italian-looking railway station, and its 
quay, always in fine weather crowded with people. The 
East India Docks, full of the largest class merchant ships, are 
situated here. Still further down the river is Woolwich 
Arsenal (the largest government ordnance depot), which every 
visitor should see. The river below, and nearly all the way 
to its mouth, lies between flat marshes, over which the 
ships appear sailing across the grass, as in a Dutch picture. 

Gravesend, the last town on its banks, is at least 30 miles 
from London; a description of it therefore will not fall 
within our limits: nevertheless an excursion from London- 
bridge to Gravesend affords, at a rapid glance, a notion of 
the vast extent of the commerce of London. 

The number of vessels entering and clearing the port of 
London in one year (1865) amounted to 42,661 ; their ton¬ 
nage to nearly ten and a half millions. The sailing vessels 
belonging to the port average nearly 3000, and the steamers 
350, giving employment to crews of 35,000 men and boys. 
The Customs from this enormous mass of merchandise is 
upwards of eleven millions sterling, or half the receipts from 
this department for the whole country. The declared value 
of the exports is nearly of a like amount. 

§ 16. To see the Thames in all its pastoral beauty the 


in London.] § 16. HAMPTON COURT TO WESTMINSTER BR. 29* 

visitor should ascend the stream far beyond the limits of 
the metropolis. The best way of seeing it is to take a 
row-boat downwards, after visiting Hampton Court or Hich- 
mond (which he may reach by the line of the South- 
Western Railway). The windings of the river make the 
journey a long one (two hours at least), but the lover of 
beautiful scenery and literary and historical associations 
will not regard it as time lost, as he will pass many places 
famous in song and history. At Twickenham he will pass 
Pope’s grotto (the house has been entirely rebuilt), Orleans 
House, the charming seat of the Due d’Aumale, as it was of 
hi.s father the Due d’Oileans, Strawberry-hill, the sham castle 
of Horace Walpole; and Ham House, of the time of James I., 
where the Cabal ” ministers of Charles II. used to meet. 
Richmond Hill and Park, beautifully wooded, crown the 
prospect. The old palace of Sheen, celebrated in the early 
reigns, yet shows some fragments, incorporated in a modern 
house, the grounds of which come down to the water, just 
below Richmond Bridge, opposite an island planted with 
weeping willows. 

Below Richmond, on the right bank of the river, runs 
Kew Park, once famous as the Farm where George III. set 
the example of scientific farming to his subjects and country,-* 
and on the left is Sion House, the fine mansion of the Duke 
of Northumberland, with beautiful gardens. Still further 
down is the charming village of Kew, with its Botanic garden 
and palm-house; Fulham succeeds, with the Bishop of Lon¬ 
don’s Palace, amid verdant meadows and trees of the densest 
foliage; but here adieu to the country ; smoking factories and 
rows of houses commence, and give to its banks a suburban 
character. The Thames so far is comparatively clear, running 
over a gravelly bottom, and banked with verdure on either 
hand. The swans too, sailing about in fleets, add to the beauty 
of the water. There are a vast number of these stately birds 
kept by the various City Companies at a great expense : one 
compan}’’ (the Dyers’) spending 3001. a year upon their swans. 

On the left bank, and close to the clumsy old Battersea 
Bridge, are Cremorne Gardens, the nightly resort in the 
summer of thousands. Below Battersea Bridge, on the right 
hand, extends the New Park, Battersea (with walks, carriage 
drives, and terrace running close beside the water); and Chel- 


30^ § 17. GENERAL HINTS TO STRANGERS. [The Stranger 

sea Hospital, with its high roof, and the old Physic Garden, 
marked, since 1854, only by a solitary cedar of Lebanon, 
terminate the open character of the banks, 'which are below 
this occupied with manufactories or with rows of houses. 
Below the Hospital the Pimlico Chain Bridge, and a double 
iron bridge for the passage of the Brighton, Chatham, and 
Dovei', and four or five other lines to the Victoria or West- 
End Terminus, span the river. At Lambeth the visitor sees 
with interest the antique towers of the Pidmate’s Palace, and 
old Lambeth Church, rebuilt—all but the tower; and on the 
opposite shore, the Penitentiary, covering a vast extent of 
ground, and looking like a “ cut down ” bastille. In imme¬ 
diate proximity to it is the new quarter of Pimlico, which 
has arisen since 1840, under the hands of the late Mr. Thomas 
Cubitt (d. 1856), the leviathan builder of the Belgravian 
portion of West-End Loudon, and originally a ship-carpenter. 

§ 17. General Hints to Strangers. 

London should be seen in May, June, and July; three 
months which include what is called “ the Season.” In May, 
the Royal Academy Exhibition opens.—The Court is in resi¬ 
dence.—The Queen or Princess of Wales holds Drawing-rooms 
'and Levees.—The Parliament is sitting.—The Opera in full 
season.—Concerts and other public entertainments daily.— 
The town is full—the streets overflow with equipages. 

There is not a more striking sight in London than the 
bustle of its great streets—the perpetually rolhng tide of 
people, carts, carriages, gay equipages, and omnibuses, in its 
gi’eat thoroughfares. On Drawing-room and Levee Days it is 
worth while to take your stand in St. James’s-street between 
1 and 2, to see the distinguished personages going to St. 
James’s, their equipages, &c. The Queen and Royal Family 
pass through St. James’s Park usually about 2 and 4. 

At the same time beware of entangling yourself in a 
London Moh. Where crowds collect, there “ roughs ” and 
pickpockets make their harvest, pinioning, pillaging, and 
often trampling underfoot their luckless victims. 

Saturday is the aristocratic day for sight-seeing. 

Monday (Saint Monday) is generally a workman’s holiday. 

Take the right-hand side of those you meet in walking 
along the streets. 


in London.] § 17. GENERAL HINTS TO STRANGERS. 3 1* 

Beware of mock auctions at shops. 

Beware of drinking the unwholesome water furnished to 
the tanks of houses from the Thames—good drinhing water 
may be obtained from springs and pumps in any part of the 
town by sending for it. 

To find the direction of a West-End friend” (who is not 
in lodgings), consult Webster’s Royal Red Boole, or Boyle's 
Court Guide, which, however, give only the names of persons 
residing in private houses. 

To find the direction of any professional man or trades¬ 
man (possessing a house), consult Kelly's Pout-office Directory, 
which is at once an official, street, commercial, trades, 
law, court, parliamentary. City, conveyance, and postal 
directory. The visitor may see it at any hotel or in any of 
the better-class shops. The names and livings of Clergymen 
of the Church of England may be found in the annual 
“ Clergy List.” 

The Electric Telegraph Companies, International. —Head 
Office, Telegraph-street, Mooi-gate; British and Irish, and 
Submarine, 58, Threadneedle-street; United Kingdom at 
Gresham House. Nearly 100 branch offices are now dis¬ 
tributed through London, so that no quarter or neigh¬ 
bourhood is far distant from one. 448, Strand, is an office 
open day and night. There are others at Charing-cross, 
Regent’s Circus, St. James’s-street, Knightsbridge, and other 
parts of the town, at the House of Commons, and all the 
Railway Stations. By means of the London District Telegraph 
Company (Wheatstone’s), messages may be sent in a very 
short time from one part of London to another, through 
nearly 400 miles of wires carried over the tops of the houses 
by leave of the inhabitants, and across the principal streets. 
There are more than 200 offices. Central Station, 90, 
Cannon-street. 

Commissioners, or Messengers, a corps of wounded soldiers, 
all of whom have lost a limb in the service of their country, 
and bearing good characters, are authorised by a society to 
execute commissions, carry letters, parcels, and messages, on 
a moderate charge of 2d, for ^ a mile, Zd. for 1 mile or more 
than 4 a mile, or 6d. an hour, walking at the rate of 2 ^ miles 
per hour. They are stationed in the chief thoroughfares at 


32^ § 17. GENERAL HINTS TO STRANGERS. [The Stranger 

the East aud West ends of London, and are known by their 
green uniform, and badges aud medals. Ladies I’equiring to 
drive about town in a cab, may take them on the box to act the 
part of servants, with perfect confidence in their steadiness. 

The best London messenger is a well-sealed and clearly 
directed penny-post letter. 

Foreign money is not current in England, and any attempt 
to use it will expose the traveller to inconvenience. It 
should be at once exchanged on arriving. Always note 
down the number of English bank notes; if lost or stolen, 
this precaution will be valuable. The hours of business, 
during which all offices, counting-houses, &c., are open are 
from 10 to 4. 

The proper houi-s for calling at private houses are from 2 
to 6 at the “ West End.” A letter of introduction should be 
left in person with a card and addi’ess, or at least delivered 
with a card by a messenger, and not sent by post. 

The dinner hour in England for the professional and 
upper classes varies from 5 to 8 p.m. Guests should arrive 
not later than a quarter of an hour after the time named, but 
never a minute before it. In England the gentlemen never 
hand the ladies from table, but remain by themselves. 

When requesting permission to view any of the private 
galleries or mansions, a foreigner had always better write 
a polite note in the French form and language than in 
English. Foreigners will find that the knowledge of the 
French language is universally, and of the German not 
rarely, diffused from the upper classes downwards, especially 
amongst females and young persons. 

At Haymarket and Covent Garden Italian Operas, gentle¬ 
men are not admitted unless in black or white neckcloths, 
black pantaloons, and dress coats. 

There are some sights peculiarly national, which foreigners 
should not omit to see whilst in London. 

Races .—Epsom and Ascot races take place in May and 
June, and are the great sights in this way. Go to Epsom 
(if not in your own carriage with four post-horses) outside 
a four-horse coach,—the scene on the road is most striking. 
“ The Derby ”—the Isthmian games of England—is the Car¬ 
nival of the Metropolis. For it even Parliament suspends 


in Loudon.] § 17. GENERAL HINTS TO STRANGERS. 33* 

its sittings, and the City exchanges are deserted. Then the 
millions of London are exposed unroofed upon the open 
Downs. The race itself—“ the great event,” as it is called 
—will less affect those who are not sporting men than the 
spectacle of the Downs paved with human heads, and the 
miles of pic-nics and feasting which follow it. As these 
races are movable entertainments, consult some resident in 
London for the days on which they take place. 

Public Dinners, for various political, social, and charitable 
objects, are always advertised, and any one may dine who 
will pay for a dinner ticket, generally one guinea. Distin¬ 
guished speakers, and sometimes good vocal music, ai-e the 
attractions. The English peculiarities as to toasts,” “ cheer¬ 
ing,” “ speeches,” &c., may here be witnessed to perfection. 

Boat Races and Sailing Matches on the Thames. —In April 
takes place the annual boat race between the Universities of 
Oxford and Cambridge, from Putney to Kew. A steamer 
generally accompanies the best matches, by advertisement, 
and the cutter clubs, pulled by eight “ crack ” amateurs, may 
generally be seen when it is high water in the evening, on 
the Thames, about Putney. 

The Game of CricJcet is best seen at Lord’s Cricket Ground, 
St. John’s Wood Road, Regeiit’s-park; admission 6d. The 
principal “matches,” such as “Kent” against “all England,” 
“Gentlemen” against “Players,” “Oxford” against “ Cam¬ 
bridge,” are generally advertised. The most popular of all, 
Bton against Harrow. Match takes place in Jul\’. 

From October to March, hunting is the rage — steeple¬ 
chases in the spring. The “ meets ” are always advertised, and 
often take place (especially those of the “ Queen’s Stag Hounds”) 
near to the railway stations within 20 miles of London. 

An English Trial by Jury may be seen, during Term time, 
at the Central Criminal Court (Old Bailey) in criminal cases; 
and at Guildhall and Westminster Hall. A shilling to a 
doorkeeper will generally secure a good seat. 

Be on your guard about the confusion in the nomenclature 
of London streets, the street branch of the “Post Oflfico 
Directory” recording the existence, in various parts of 
the town, of 37 King-streets, 27 Queen-streets, 22 Princes- 

c 


§18. CAB FARES. 


[T! c Stranger 


34-^ 


streets, and 17 Duke-streets, 35 Charles-sti’eets, 29 Joliii- 
streets, 15 James-streets, 21 George-streets, besides numerous 
thoroughfares with the common prefixes Eobert, Thomas, 
Frederick, Chai’lotte, and Mary. Anomalies also arc very 
common:—There are North and South Streets which lie east 
and west, and 10 East-streets and 11 West-streets which 
point to a sufficient variety of directions to box the compass. 
There are as many as 24 “New-streets,” and only 1 Old- 
street, though some of the “New” are old enough. There 
are no fewer than 18 York-places, 16 York-streets, 14 Cross¬ 
streets, 13 Crown-courts, 19 Park-places, 16 Union-streets, 
10 Wellington-places, 10 Gloucester-streets, and 13 Glou- 
cester-places. The suburbs abound in provoking repetitions 
of streets and terraces bearing the names of “ Victoria” 
and “Albert.” These will soon cease under the IMetropolis 
Local Management Act. 

§ 18. Cab Fares .—Obtain at any bookseller’s, price Is., the 
Ked Book of fares, published by the Metropolitan Police 
Commissioners, pursuant to section 6 of Act 16 and 17 Vic¬ 
toria, c. 33. These tables, in case of dispute as to fare, are 
conclusive evidence of all the distances they contain. 
The number of cabs in London is about 5000. A four- 
wheeled cab holds four persons; a Hansom (named from 
the inventor) only two. Each cabman must earn ten shil¬ 
lings a day before he can clear his expenses or obtain a 
penny for himself. The London public, it is calculated, 
spends 860,000^. a year in cab-hire. 

If you are in a hurry, and want to catch a railway ti-ain, 
call a Hansom-cab, promise the man a shilling above his fare, 
if he takes you in time. 

The centre of London (for cabs) is Charing-cross. 

Fares are according to distance or time, at the option of 
the hirer, expressed at the commencement of the 
hiring ; if not otherwise expressed, the fare according to 
distance. After 8 o’clock in the evening, and before 6 - 
o’clock in the morning, no driver is compellable to hire 
his carriage for a fare according to time. 

Distance fares for two persons .—Sixpence a mile, or fragment 
of a mile, not exceeding four miles (radius) from Charing- 
cross. ... 


London.] § 18. CAB FARES. 35 * 

Oue shilling a mile, or part of a mile, when taken beyond 
four miles from Charing-cross. 

Back-fare cannot be claimed. 

The charge for stopping, is sixpence for every quarter of 
an hour completed. 

Time fares for two persons. —For any time withiiq and not 
exceeding, one hour, 2s. 

Sixpence for every quarter of an hour, or any part of 
fifteen minutes not completed above one hour. 

One shilling for every mile, or part of a mile, beyond four 
miles (radius) from Charing-cross—if your cab is dis¬ 
charged beyond such four miles. 

Back-fare cannot be claimed. 

When hired by time, the driver may be required to drive 
at a rate not exceeding four miles an hour. When re¬ 
quired to drive at a greater speed, he is entitled to claim 
6 cZ. a mile, or fragment of a mile, in addition to the 
time fare. 

Distance and time fares for more than two persons. —When 
more than two persons are carried in one cab, an addi¬ 
tional sixpence is to be paid for every additional person 
for the whole hiring. Two children under ten years 
of age counted as one adult. 

For every 15 minutes’ stoppage the driver is entitled to 
6 cZ. over his distance fare. 

LiKjgage. —A reasonable quantity of luggage is to be carried 
in or upon the carriage free of charge, except when 
more than two persons are carried inside, with a greater 
quantity of luggage than can be carried inside, and then 
2d. is to be paid for every package carried outside. 

In case of any dispute between hirer and driver, the 
hirer may require the driver to drive to the nearest 
Metropolitan Police Court, or Justice Room, when the 
complaint may be determined by the Sitting Magistrate 
without summons; if no Police Court or Justice Room 
be open at the time, then the hirer may require the 
driver to drive him to the nearest Police Station, where 
the complaint will be entered, and tried by the 
Magistrate at his next sitting. 

Every driver, when hired, is required to deliver to the 
hirer a card containing the printed number of the, 

c 2 


36 * § 19. OMNIBUS ROUTES. [The Stratiger 

Stamp Office plate on such carriage, or such other words 
or figures as the Commissioners of Police may direct. 

In London and the Metropolitan District there are about 
300 cab-stands. 

If you leave any article either in a ‘^bus” or cab, apply 
for it at the Police Office, Scotland-yard. 

§ 19. Omnibus Routes traverse London not only N. and S. 
and E. and W., but in all directions through the central 
parts, to and from the extreme suburbs. There are about 
1500 different omnibuses, employing nearly 7000 persons. 
The majority commence running at 8 in the morni»g and 
continue till 12 at night, succeeding each other during the 
busy parts of the day every five minutes. Most of them 
have two charges—fourpence for part of the distance, and 
sixpence for the whole distance; some charge as low as 
twopence for short distances, and few exceed ninepence for 
the whole journey. It will be well, however, in all cases to 
inquire the fare to the particular spot; wherever there is 
a doubt the conductors will demand the full fare. The 
''bus” is subject to the inconvenience of heat and crowd¬ 
ing; and in wet weather the steam from wet great coats 
and umbrellas is very oppressive. Add to this, it is not 
unfrequently chosen by pickpockets to carry out their 
operations. The seat on the roof, vulgo^ " the knife-boai-d,’’ 
is free from those objections, provided you can climb up 
to it, which for females and infirm persons is not possible. 

The Chief Centres from which Omnibus Routes radiate are— 

All the Railway Stations, 

The Bank. 

Charing Cross. 

Oxford Street—corner of Tottenham Court Road. 

Oxford Street—Regent Circus, 

Riccadilly—Regent Circus and White Horse Cellar. 

Sloane Street. 

Bishopsgate Street. 

Gracechurch Street. 

Angel, Islington. 

Elephant and Castle. 

Starting Points on the Outskirts of London. 

Jiaysioater—io Whitechapel, by Oxford Street, Ilolborn. 

Blackwall—io Pimlico (Royal Blue). 

Bromplo7i—to London Bridge. 

Camberwell—irova. Gracechurch Street, by London Bridge. 


in London.1 


§ 20 . POST-OFFICE. 


37 ^ 


Camhei’well —from Camden Town (Waterloo), by Albany Street, Regent 
Street, Charing Cross, and Waterloo Bridge. 

Camden Town —(See York and Albany). 

Chelsea —King’s Road to Bishopsgate Street, by Sloano Street, St. 
Piiul’s, Bank. 

llamnwsmith and Kensington —to the Bank, by Piccadilly, Strand, St. 
Paul’s, Cheapside. 

Kennington Gate—to King’s Cross, by Blackfriars Road, Fleet Street, 
Gray’s Inn Lane. 

Paddington —to the Bank (Conveyance Company), by Euston Road, 
Pentonville, Angel (Islington), Finsbury. 

Paddington —by Oxford Street, Holborn, Newgate Street, Cheapside. 

St. John's Wood, —to the Bank (City Atlas). 

St. John's Wood —to Elephant and Castle, by Baker Street, Regent 
Street, Charing Cross, and Westminster Bridge (Atlas). 

Westminster —to Highgate Archway (Favourite), by Charing Cross, 
Chancery Lane, Gray’s Inn Road, Islington, Holloway. 

York and Albany —near Zoological Gardens, Regent’s Park, to Cam¬ 
berwell Gate, by Portland Road, Regent Street, Charing Cross, 
and Waterloo Bridge (Waterloo). 

Omnibuses from London to the Environs. 

To Blackwall—from Regent Circus, Piccadilly, by Bank. Better by 
Rail, from Fenchurcli Street. 

To Brixton—from Gracechurch Street, by London Bridge, Newington 
Causeway, Kennington, Tulse Hill. 

To Brixton—from King’s Cross, by Chancery Lane, Westminster Bridge. 

To Clapham —from Gracechurch Street, by the Borough. 

To Clapham —from Oxford Street (Regent Circus), by Westminster 
Bridge. 

To Cremorne Gardens, Chelsea—from B.ank, by Charing Cross, Picca¬ 
dilly, Sloane Street, (N.B. Also by Thames steamers to Upper 
Chelsea Pier.) 

To Crystal Palace, Norwood — from Oxford Street, Charing Cross, 
Westminster Bridge, Kennington, and Brixton. 

To Crystal Palace, Norwood — from Gracechurch Street, City, by 
Brixton or Camberwell, and Dulwich. (Quicker by Kail.) 

To Dulwich —from Gracechurch Street, London Bridge, every hour. 

To Greenwich —from Charing Cross, by Westminster Bridge. 

To Greenwich —from Gracechurch Street, by London Bridge. 

To Hackney —from the Bank, by Bishopsgate Street, Shoreditch, 
Clapton. 

To Hampstead —from the Bank, by Holborn, Tottenham Court Road. 

To Hampton Court —from St. Paul’s, by Charing Cross, White Horse 
Cellar, Hammersmith, Kew, Richmond, Twickenham (White). 

To Ktnsal Green Ceme'ery —from Oxford Street, Edgeware Road. 

'To Highgate Hill—from Westminster (Favourite), Charing Cross, 
Chancery Lane, Islington. 

To isibiytow—Barnsbury Park, from Kennington Gate, Blackfriars 
Bridge, St. Paul’s, Post Office, Goswell Road. 

To Islington —from Old Kent Road (Borough), by London Bridge. 

To Putney Bridge —from Loudon Bridge Station, by Fleet Street, Pic¬ 
cadilly, Parson’s Green, Fulham. 

To Richmond —from St. Paul’s, Charing Cross, Piccadilly, Kenning¬ 
ton, Kew Bridge. 

To Richmond —by Brompton, Putney Bridge, Mortlake. 

§ 20. Letters (for distances beyond the London delivery) 
can be posted at the Receiving Houses throughout the 


38 * § 21. HOTELS, ETC. WHERE TO LODGE. [The StruDRer 

Metropolis until 5h. 30m. p.m., or until 6 p.m., with doublo 
postage stamps attached. (See Post Office, Sect, vii.) 


There are ten Postal Districts of London and the Chief 
Offices. Letters bearing their initials in addition to the 
address are delivered earlier. 


E.C. Eastern Central. 
W.C. Western Central. 
W. Western. 

N.W. North Western. 
S.W. South Western. 

S. South. 

S.E. South East. 

E. East. 

N.E. North East. 

N. North. 


St. Martin’s-le-Grand. 

126, High Holborn. 

3, Vere-street, Oxford-street. 
Eversholt-street, Oakley-square. 
Little Charlotte-street, Bucking- 
[ham-gate. 

Westminster-road, Lambeth. 

170, High-street, Southwark. 
Nassau-place, Commercial-road. 

78, Church-street, Bethnal-green. 
Lower-street, Islington. 


In the London Disti'ict Posts there are 11 deliveries of 
letters daily. Take care to post before ^ to 8 , 10, 12, and 
2, 4, 6 , 8 , and in one of the Iron Pillar Boxes (first erected 
1855) on the kerb stones of the leading thoroughfai’es. 

Letters posted at the Receiving-houses in London before 
6 at night are delivered the same evening at all places within 
a circle of three miles from the General Post Office; or if 
posted before 5, they are delivered in the environs the same 
evening. 

§ 21. Hotels, Inns, d:c. —The best Hotels at the West End 
of London, are Claridge’s, late Mivart’s, in Brook-street; 
the Clarendon, in New Bond-street; Albemarle, York, and 
London Hotels, in Albemarle-street; Maurigy’s Hotel,Regent- 
street, of the highest respectability, well managed, resort of 
clergy and gentry; Fenton’s, and Howchin’s, in St. James’s- 
street; St. James’s Hotel (Francatelli’s); and numerous 
other hotels in Jermyn-street, Albemarle-street, and Dover- 
street; the Burlington and Queen’s, in Cork-street, all good 
Family Hotels. House-rent in this quarter is expensive, and 
the terms are accordingly high. 

Long’s Hotel, Bond-street; and Limmer’s, Conduit-street, 
are the resorts chiefly of sporting gentlemen or families. 


in Lond.ni.] 


§ 21. WHERE TO LODGE. 


39 * 


Grand Hotels —built expressly for the purpose, in the 
fashion of those in America and the 116tel de Louvre, at 
Paris—have been established at the Termini of the chief 
Railways —generally in connection with the Company; and 
in other quarters of London. They have fixed tariffs of 
prices; and Coffee-rooms for ladies as well as for gentlemen. 

At the London and North-Western are the Euston and 
Victoria Hotel.—At King’s Cross, the Great Northern.— 
The Great Western Railway Hotel at Paddington is one of 
the largest and the best in London. 

The Westminster Palace Hotel at the end of Victoria- 
street, close to Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Par¬ 
liament, contains 300 rooms, part temporarily occupied by 
the Indian Council, 130 bed-rooms. 

The Palace Hotel, close to Buckingham Palace, quiet and 
genteel, for families and gentlemen. 

The Grosvenor Hotel, at the Victoria Station, Pimlico. 

The International Hotel, at London Bridge Terminus, 
close to the Dover and Brighton Railway (250 rooms). 

Langham Hotel, Langham-place. 

Charing Cross Hotel at the South Eastern Railway Ter¬ 
minus, Strand. 

Cannon-street Hotel, at the City Terminus of the South 
Eastern Railway. 

Fleming’s Private Hotel, Half-Moon-street, Beattie’s, Dover- 
street, and Rawlins’, Jermyn-street, are recommended. 

Less expensive inns are Hatchett’s and Bath Hotel, Pic¬ 
cadilly; and as central houses, chiefly for bachelors, the 
Tavistock, and the New and Old Hummums, in Covent 
Garden. 

^Midway between the City and the West End are the British, 
in Cockspur-street, the Golden Cross, and Morley’s, at Charing 
Cross. 

Less expensive inns in the City:—The Bridge House 
Hotel, London Bridge; the Queen’s, and the Castle and 
Falcon, St. Martin’s-le-Grand; Radley’s, 10, New Bridge 
Street, may be recommended; besides which, in St. Paul’s 
Churchyard and its district, are many good and respectable 
hotels. 

Holds for Foreigners .—Visitors of distinction will find 
French and German spoken at Claridge’s and the Clarendon. 


[The Stranger 


40 * § 21. WHERE TO LODGE. 

To those who wish to be moderate in their expenses, 
we would mention the well-conducted house of M. de 
Keyser (the Royal Hotel), New Bi’idge-street, Blackfriars; 
here every guest must be introduced personally, or by 
letter. 

But the quarter more especially devoted to French and 
German visitors is Leicester-square, and the vicinity of the 
Haymarket. The Hotel de Provence (in Leicester-square), 
is conducted in the Continental style. The Hotel de Ver¬ 
sailles, 37, Gerrard Street, Soho. 

There are many disreputable houses in this neighbour¬ 
hood, therefore travellers should be cautious not to resort 
to any ^vithout some reliahle recommendation. 

Boarding-houses for Foreigners are also numerous around 
Leicester-square. 

The visitor who wdshes to make a lengthened stay in the 
Metropolis, will find it most economical to take lodgings. 
These he may get at all prices, from the suite of elegantly 
furnished rooms in the West End, at 4, 7, 10, or 15 guineas 
a week, to the bed-room and use of a breakfast parlour, at 10 
shillings a week. In the West End the best description of 
lodgings are to be found in the streets leading from Piccadilly 
—such as Sackville-street, Dover-street, Half-Moon-street, 
Clarges-street, and Duke-street, and in streets leading out 
of Oxford-street and Regent-street, St. James’s-street, Jermyn- 
street, Bury-street, and King-street. The best class of 
apartments are those in private houses, let by persons of re¬ 
spectability, generally for the season only. In the windows 
of these houses you will probably not see “Apartments to 
Let.” A list of such apartments is to be found, however, at 
the nearest house-agent, who gives cards to view, and states 
♦terms. An advertisement in the Times for such rooms, 
stating that “no lodging-house-keeper need apply,” will often 
open to the stranger the doors of very respectable families, 
where he will get all the quiet and comfort of a home, so 
difficult to be found in the noisy, and often extortionate, 
professed lodging-house. Furnished houses for families can 
always be obtained at the West End. 

Those who wish moderate lodgings in a central situation, 
should seek for apartments in some of the secondary streets 
leading from the Strand, such as Cecil-street, Craven-street, 


in London.] § 22. WHERE TO DINE AND SUP. 41* 

Norfolk-street, Southampton-street, Bedford-street, or the 
Adelphi. Here, in the season, the prices ran^e from 1 to 4 
guineas for a sitting and bedroom. Those again who care not 
for locality will find every quarter of the to^\^l abounding in 
boarding-houses and lodging-houses, varying in price according 
to the situation. The middle-class visitor who is bent on sight¬ 
seeing should obtain a bedroom in a healthy locality, and the 
use of a breakfast-room. There are thousands of such lodgings 
to be had for half-a-guinea a week. He can either provide his 
breakfast himself or get his landlady to provide it for him. 
The various chop-houses and dining-rooms, of which there arc 
nearly 600 in the Metropolis, will supply him with his dinner; 
whilst the 900 cofiee-houses will afford him a cheap tea in 
any quarter of the town. He may pay a visit, however, to 
the Divan in the Strand, where for Is. he has the entree of a 
handsome room, a cup of coffee and a cigar, and the use of 
newspapers, periodicals, chess, &c. 

§ 22, Eestaurants and Dining-rooms. —At the West End 
—Willis’s Rooms, King-street, St. James’s. In the City — 
The London Tavern, Bishopsgate-street, and the Albion 
Tavern, in Aldersgate-street, first-rate cuisine, are adapted 
for large public or private dinners. 

City dining-houses famous for some particular dish : 

Ship and Turtle, Leadenhall-street, for its turtle. 

“Joe’s,” or “Ned’s,” Finch-lane, Cornhill, for steaks and 
chops served on metal plates. 

The “ Cock,” 201, Fleet-street, for steaks and chops and 
“ snipe kidneys.” 

“ Williams’s Old Bailey Beef Shop,” for boiled beef. 

“Dolly’s,” Queen’s Head Passage, Paternoster-row, a quiet, 
chop-house. 

Three Tuns Tavern, Billingsgate Market, is the celebrated 
fish ordinary, at 1 and 4 p.m.; charge is l5. 6d, including 
butcher’s meat and cheese. 

“ PeiTot’s City Restaurant,” Milk-street, Cheapside, has a 
luncheon bar on the ground floor, and on the first floor chop 
and steak and smoking-rooms ; the kitchen being above all. 

“Salutation,” in Newgate-street, ordinary every day at 5 
o’clock, where you are provided with three courses for Is. 6f?., 
bread, beer, and cheese included; you are expected, however, 
to take wine or spirits afterwards. 


42* 


§ 22. WHERE TO DINE AND SUP. [The Stranger 

Ill Bucklersbury, leading from Cheapside, there are several 
clean and excellent dining-rooms, where you may dine well 
from 8cZ. upwards. These are termed “Dining-rooms,” or 
“Eating-houses.” Asa general rule it is customary to give 
the waiter Id if your dinner is under Is., and so on in 
.proportion, hut never to exceed 6d each person. 

The “ Eainbow,” “ Dick’s,” the “ Mitre,” and the “ Cheshire 
Cheese,” in Fleet-street, and “ The London Eestaurant,” 
corner of Chancery Lane, are good dining-houses for 
chops, beefsteaks, or joints, and at moderate prices. The 
London is provided with a separate dining-room for 
ladies. ( 

European Coffee-house, facing the Mansion-house, is an 
excellent house. 

Dining Rooms.—Westward of Temple Bar —The “ Welling¬ 
ton,” 160, Piccadilly (late “ Crockfords ”); St. James's Hall, 
Piccadilly and Eegent’s Quadrant — Eestaurant kept by 
Donald. 

“ Verrey’s, ” Eegent-street, corner of Hanover-street—good 
French cookery and wines. ^ 

“The Burlington” (Blanchard’s), Eegent’s-street corner of 
New Burlington-street. 

Kiibu's, 29, Hanover street, Eegent-street. 

Bertolini’s, St. Martin’s-street, Leicester-square; or Eou- 
get’s. Castle-street, Leicester-square, provide French dinners 
at moderate rates. 

Simpson’s at the Divan Tavern, 103, Strand,—The great 
saloon is fitted up like a French Eestaurant; fresh joints are 
cooked every quarter of an hour, between the hour's of 5 and 
half-past 7, and the dish is wheeled round to the diner, that 
the carver may cut to his liking; charge, exclusive of stout 
or ale, 2^. 

The “Blue Posts,” in Cork-street, is a noted house, both for 
its cooking and its baked punch. 

John o’Groat’s, in Eupert-street, is a clean and reasonable 
dining-house. 

The “Albany,” in Piccadilly, is good and cheap, and a 
house in which ladies may dine with comfoi’t, and the 
“Scotch Stores,” in Oxford-street (the “Green Man and 
Still”), are good houses, the table-cloth clean, and your dinner, 
served on metal, costs you about 2^. 6d Clunn’s Hotel in 
Covent-garden is famed for its wines. 

Wilton’s, Great Eyder-street, St. James’s. Oysters and 
stout are in perfection. 

The West End Tavern dining-hours are from 3 to 7 
o’clock. 


in London.] §§ 22, SUPPER-ROOMS J 23. THEATRES. 43 * 

West End Supper-houses. — Cooper’s, opposite Drury-lane 
(already mentioned). 

Rule’s, in Maiden-lane, famous for boned bloaters and 
oysters. 

Evans’s, in Covent-garden; the Hotel de I’Europe close to 
the Haymarket Theatre, and the fish-shops, such as Scott’s, 
Quinn’s, &c., which almost line this street, are much used as 
late supper houses. 

City Supper-houses. —The Cock, the Rainbow, Dick’s, and 
Dr. Johnson’s tavern (all four in or off Fleet-street), are the 
chief houses resorted to after the theatres. 

The stranger' who wishes to see City feasting in all its 
glory, should procure an invitation to one of the banquets 
of the City Companies in their own halls. The Goldsmiths’ 
dinners, given in their magnificent hall, behind the General 
Post Office, exhibit a grand display of gold plate. The Fish¬ 
mongers’, Merchant Taylors’, Companies, &c., are famous for 
their cookery, and the antique character of their bills of fare 
—still maintaining the baron of beef, the boar’s-head, the 
swan, the crane, the ruff, and many other delicacies of the 
days of Queen Elizabeth. After these dinners 'rthe loving 
cup ” goes round. In the Carpenters’ Company, the new 
master and wardens are crowned with silver caps at their 
feast; at the Clothworkers’, a grand procession enters after 
dinner. Similar customs prevail at other of the great Com¬ 
panies’ banquets, and all the dinners are first-rate. 

The suburban dining-houses are the Star and Garter, and 
the Castle, at Richmond; Lovegrove’s East India Dock 
Tavern at Blackwall; the Ship (Quartermaine’s), and Tra¬ 
falgar, at Greenwich, and the Ship at Gravesend; these are 
all famous for their white-bait. Crystal Palace Restaurant, 
Sydenham. 

§ 23. The Amusements and objects of interest in London are 
so numerous, and so diverse in character, that some classifi¬ 
cation is absolutely necessary to enable the visitor to select 
what he would most like to witness. The theatres, which we 
j)resume to interest most classes, we shall place first, 
giving in the most succinct manner the character of per¬ 
formance to be seen at each. They are— 

Her Majesty’s Theatre, Haymarket.—Italian Opera. 

Royal Italian Opera, Covent Garden. 

Uruuy-lane Theatre. 

Haymarket Theatre.— British Drama, Vaudeville, Farce, and Bur¬ 
lesque, 7 p.m. 

The Lyceum, or English Opera House, Strand, 7 p.m, 

Brincess’s, 73, Oxford-street.—British Drama, Spectacles, Melodrama, 
and Farce, 7 p.m. 


44* §§ 25, 2G. OBJECTS of interest [The stranger 

St. James’s Theatre, King-street, St. James’s.-^British Drama, Spec¬ 
tacles, Melodrama, Farce ; with French Plays occasionally. 

New Adelpiti, 411, Strand.—Melodrama and Farce. 

Olympic Theatre, Wych-street.—Melodrama and Farce. 

Strand Theatre, Strand.—Melodrama, Farce, and Burlesque. 

The IloLBORN Theatre. —Melodrama and Farce. 

The Hippodrome, Holborn—Horsemanship. 

Royalty. —Melodrama, Farce, and Burlesque. 

The Prince of Wales, Tottenham Court Road.—Melodrama, Farce, 
and Burlesque. 

Marylebone, Church-sti'eet. 

Sadler’s Wells, Islington. 

Britannia, Hoxton Old Town.—Melodrama, &c., half-past 6 p.ra. 
Surrey, Blackfriars-road.—Melodrama, English Opera, and Farce, 7p.m. 
Victoria, Waterloo-road.—Melodrama and Farce. 

Astley’s, Bridge-road, Westminster Bridge.—Melodrama, 7 p.m. 
Standard, opposite Eastern Counties Railway Station.—Being rebuilt. 
Grecian Theatre, City Road.—Melodrama, Farce, and Ballet. 
Alhambra, Leicester-square.—Concerts and Ballet, 8 p.m. 


§ 24. Miscellaneous Exhibitions^ Ballets, (kc. 

Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly, opposite Bond-street. 

The Polytechnic Institution, 309, Regent-street, and 5, Cavendish- 
iquare. Popular science illustrated by dissolving views, &c.; a 
collection of all kinds of curious machinery in motion, and of models, 
&c.; lectures on chemistry, and other scientific subjects, are daily 
given. Open from 11 o’clock till 5 o’clock, and from 7 o’clock till 
10 o’clock. Admission, Is. Mr. Pepper is the popular manager. 

Madame Tussaud’s Wax Works, Baker-street Bazaar, Portman-square. 
The evening4s the best time. Admission, Is. Chamber of Horrors, 
Qd. extra. Shut 6 to 8 p.ra. 

Cremorne Gardens, Chelsea. In summer the gardens open at 3, are 
illuminated at night. Dancing commences at dusk, the whole con¬ 
cluding with Fireworks at 11. Admission, Is. 


CONCERTS AND MUSIC. 

§ 25. Performances of Interest to the Musician. 

The Two Operas. See sec. xx. 

Concerts of the Philharmonic Society held in the Ilanover-square 
Rooms. Apply at Messrs. Addison and Co.’s, 110, Regent-street. 

Sacred Harmonic Society. —Performances of Oratorios, by Handel, 
Haydn, Mendelssohn, &c., in Exeter Hall, from November to July. 

Monday Popular Concerts. —St. James’s Hall, from 8 to lOJ p.m. 

Musical Union Concerts, held in Willis’s Rooms, King-street, St. 
James’s. 

Private Concerts, given by celebrated artists, during the season—May, 
June, July. Hanover-square Rooms—Almack’s, St. James’s Hall. 

Ella’s Concerts of Instrumental Music— most scientific and first-rate. 

Anniversary of the Sons of the Clergy, in St. Paul’s Cathedral in 
May. 

Anniversary of the Charity Children of London, beneath the Dome 
of St. Paul’s, the First Thursday in June. 

Madrigal, Choral, and Glee Societies, always taking place in the Metro¬ 
polis, of which notice is given in the public papers. 

Concerts, Handel Celebrations, &c. at the Crystal Palace, Sydenham. 


in London.] 


TO MUSICIANS, PAINTERS, ETC. 45 * 


§ 26. Objects of Interest to the Painter and Connoisseur. 

g The Collections thus marked are private, and placed in dwelling-houses, 
and can only be seen by special permission of the owners.* 

National Gallery, including the Turner Collections. Free, Monday, 
Tuesday, Wednesday, and Saturday. 

South Kensington Museum, including the Cartoons of Raphael, the 
Sheepshanks and Vernon Gallery of Paintings. 

The National Portrait Gallery, 29, George-street, Westminster. 

§ Bridgewater Gallery, St. James’s. By Tickets only. 

§ Grosvenor Gallery (Lord Westminster’s), Upper Grosvenor-street. 

By Tickets, in May, June, and July, 
g Duke of Sutherland’s Pictures by Murill', Van Dyck, and P. Dela- 
roche. 

§ Duke of Bedford’s Dutch Pictures, 6, Belgrave-square. 

§ The Correggio (Christ in the Garden), and other pictures, at Apsley 
House. 

§ The Van Dyck Portraits and Sketches (en grisaille), fine Caua- 
letti (View of Whitehall), at Montague House, 
g Duke of Grafton’s Van Dyck, of Charles I. standing by his horse. 
The Holbein, at Barber-Surgeons’ Hall, Monkwell-street, City. 

§ Titian’s Cornaro Family, at Northumberland House; to be seen by 
an order from the Duke of Northumberland only. 

Rubens’s Ceiling, in Inigo Jones’s Banqueting House (now the Chapel 
Royal), at Whitehall. May be seen on Sunday morning after 
divine service. 

Old Masters and Diploma Pictures, at the Royal Academy. Write 
to the Keeper of the Royal Academy. 

The Hogarths and Canalettis, at the Soane Museum in Lincoln’s- 
Inn-fields. 

The Hogarths, at the Foundling Hospital, Lincoln’s Inn Hall, and St. 
Bartholomew’s Hospital. 

The Three Sir Joshua Reynolds’ of the Dilettanti Society, at Willis’s 
Rooms, King street, St. James’s, 
g The Van Dycks, at Earl de Grey’s, in St. Jame.s’s-square. 
g Sir Robert Peel’s Dutch Pictures, in Privy Gardens, 
g The late Mr. Hope’s Dutch Pictures, Piccadilly (corner of Down- 
street). 

The Portraits in the British Museum, 
g Lord Lansdowne’s Collection, Lausdowne House. 

Barry’s Pictures at the Society of Arts, Adelphi. 

The Pictures in the Painted Hall, Greenwich Hospital, 
g The Duke of Devonshire’s Gallery, Piccadilly, 
g Lord Ashburton’s Collection, at Bath House, Piccadilly. 

Lord Dudley’s Collection, Park-lane. 

{Marquis of Hertford’s Collection, Manchester Square, 
g Lord Normanton’s Collection. 

g Baron Rothschild’s Murillo (Infant Saviour), at Gunnersbury, five 
miles from Hyde-Park-corner. 

g R. S. Holford’s Collection, at Dorchester House. Park-lane, 
g Pool of Bethesda, by Murillo, at George Tomline’s, Esq., No. 1, 
Carlton-IIouse-terrace. 

Private Collections of the late H. A. J. Munro, Hamilton-place, 
Piccadilly; of Thomas Baring, Esq., M.P., 41, Upper Grosvenor- 


• These Collections are fully and satisfactorily described in Waagcn’s 
Treasures of Art in Britain,” 1854. 




46* §§ 27, 28. OBJECTS of interest to the [The stranger 

street; of Mrs. Gibbons, No. 17, Hanover-terrace, Regent’s Park; 
Mr. 13. G. WiNDUs’s Turner Drawings, at Tottenham, five miles 
from St. Paul’s [shown every Tuesday to Amateurs bringing letters 
of introduction). 

The Dulwich Gallery, daily, except Sundays, 10 to 6. 

The Picture Gallery at Hampton Court, daily, except Friday. 

The Pictures by Rubens, Van Dyck, &c., at Windsor. 

Exhibitions of Modern Pictures. 

Royal Academy oe Arts, East Wing of the National Galler}', in 
Trafalgar-square. The Exhibition of the Academy, containing the 
greatest novelties of the best English Artists, is open to the public 
daily from the first Monday in May till the end of July. Ad¬ 
mission, Is.; Catalogue, Is. If you wish to see the pictures, go early, 
before 12. 

Society of British Artists, exhibiting between 500 and 600 pictures 
annually, at Suffolk-street, Charing Cross. Admission, Is., open 
April to July. 

The British Institution contains from February to May between 
300 and 400 modern pictures. From June to September there is an 
Exhibition of Ancient Masters, lent from the principal private 
collections in town and country. Admission, Is. Catalogue. Is. 
Society of Painters in Water Colours, Pall-mall East. Admission, 
Is., open April to August. Catalogue, 6d. 

Institute of Painters in Water Colours, Pall-mall. Admission, Is., 
open April to August. Catalogue, 6d. 

Pictures of French Artists’ Gallery, Pall-mall, in the summer 
months. 

During the London season (April, May, and June) the 
Connoisseur should make a point of occasionally dropping in 
at the Auction Rooms of Christie and Manson, in King-street, 
St. James’s-square; and of*Sotheby and Wilkinson, Welling- 
ton-street. Strand. 

§ 27. Objects of Interest to the Sculptor. 

The Nineveh, Elgin, Phigalian, Townley, and other Marbles 
in the British Museum. 

Bas-relief, by Michael Angelo, at the Royal Academy. Write to the 
Keeper of the Royal Academy. 

Flaxman’s Models at University College, in Gower-street. Write to 
C. C. Atkinson, Esq., at University College. 

The Sculpture in St. Paul’s and Westminster Abbey. 

Statue of Charles I., by Le Soeur, at Charing-ci'oss. 

Statue of James II., by Grinling Gibbons, behind Whitehall, 
g Statue of Napoleon, by Canova, at Apsley House. Statues by the 
same artist at Buckingham Palace. 

g Two Fine Statues, by Canova, at Gunnersbury (five miles from Hyde- 
Park-corner), seat of Baron Lionel de Rothschild, M.P. 

The several Statues in the Squares and public Places— Pitt, by 
Chantrey, in Hanover-square; Fox, by Westmacott, in Blooms- 
bury-square; Canning, by Westmacott, near Westminster Hall; 
George III., by Wyatt, inCockspur-street; George IV., by Chan¬ 
trey, in Trafalgar-square; Duke of Wellington before the Royal 
Exchange, by Chantrey, and at Hyde-Park-corner, by Wyatt. 

The Italian and other Sculpture in the S. Kensington Museum, 


in London.] SCULPTOR, ARCHITECT, AND ENGINEER. 47^ 

including Two Statues of Madness and Melancholy, by Cibber, 
brought from Bethlehem Hospital. 

g Marbles at Lansdowne House, in Berkeley-square, the residence of the 
Marquis of Lansdowne. 

The fine Collection of Casts at the Ciystal Palace, at Sydenham. 


§ 28. Objects of Interest to 

Norman and Gothic. 

The Nonnan Chapel, in the 
Tower. 

The Norman Crypt, under the 
church of St. Mary-le-Bow. 

St. Bartholomew - the - Great, 
Smithfield, the oldest church in 
London. 

St. Mary Overy, London Bridge. 
Westminster Ahbey and Hall. 

St. Michael’s, Cornhill. 

Temple Church. 

Dutch Church, Austin Friars. 

Ely Place Chapel. 

Crypt at Guildhall. 

Crypt at St. John’s, Clerkenwell. 
Allhallows, Barking. 

St. Olave’s, Hart-street. 

Crosby Hall, Bishopsgate-street, 
built 1466-1472. 

Savoy Chapel. 

St. John’s Gate, Clerkenwell. 
Lambeth Palace — (Chapel and 
Hall, and Lollards’ Tower). 

Renaissance : 

Holland House, Kensington. 

Works, by Inigo Jones: 
Banqueting House, Whitehall. 

St. Paul’s, Covent-garden. 
Shaftesbury House, Aldersgate- 
street. 

Lindsey House, Lincoln’s-Inn- 
tields (West side). 

Ashburnham House Cloisters, 
Westminster. 

Lincoln’s Inn Chapel. 

St. Catherine Cree—(part only). 
Piazza, Covent-garden. 

By Sir Christopher Wren : 

St. Paul’s Cathedral. 

St. Stephen’s, Walbrook. 

St. Mary-le-Bow, in Cheapside. 

St. Bride’s, Fleet-street. 

St Magnus, I.ondon Bridge. 

St. James’s, Piccadilly. 

Spire of St. Dunstan’s-in-the- 
East. 

St. Mary Aldermary. 

St. Michael’s, Conihill. 


the Architect and Engineer. 

Towersof St.Vedast, St.Antholin, 
and St. Margaret Pattens. 

By Gibbs : 

St. Martin-in-the-Fields. 

St. Mary-le-Strand. 

By Hawksmoor (Wren’s pupil): 
St. Mary Woolnoth, near the 
Mansion House. 

Christ Church, Spitalfields. 

St. George’s, Bloomsbury. 
Limehouse Church. 

By Lord Burlington : 

Colonnade, at Burlington House. 
Duke of llevonshire’s Villa at 
Chiswick. 

By Sir William Chambers : 

• Somerset House. 

By Kent : 

Marquis of Bath’s House, No. 41, 
Berkeley-square. 

By Dance (Senior): 

The Mansion House. 

By Dance (Junior): 

Newgate. 

By John Rennie : 

Waterloo Bridge. 

By Sir John Soane: 

Bank of England. 

By Nash : 

Regent-street. 

Buckingham Palace (cast front 
excepted, which is by Blore). 

By Decimus Burton : 

Athenseum Club, Pall-mall. 
Colosseum, in the Regent’s Park. 
Gateways at Hyde-Park-corner. 

By Philip Hardwick (and 
Son): 

Goldsmiths’ Hall. 

Lincoln’s Inn Hall. 

Euston-square Kail way Terminus 

By Sir Robert Smirke : 

British Museum. 

Post Office. 




48'^ § 29. OBJECTS OF INTEREST TO ANTIQUARY. [The Stranger 


By Sir CHA.RLES Barry: 

Houses of Parliament. 

Reform Club, Pall-mall. 
Travellers’ Club, Pall-mall. 
Treasury, Whitehall. 
Bridgewater House. 

By Sydney Smirke, A.R.A. : 
Carlton Club-house. 

Conservative Club-house. 

Intex’ior of Pantheon. 

By G.G. Scott, A.R.A.: 
Camberwell Church. 

The New Government Offices, 
Downing Street, St. James’s 
Park. 

By Benjamin Ferrey : 

St. Stephen’s Church, Rochester- 
row, Westminster. 


By Edmund Street: 

St. James the Less Church, Gar¬ 
den Street, Vauxhall Road. 

By Carpenter : 

All Saints’, Margaret-street, Ca¬ 
vendish-square. 

By Butterfield : 

St. Mary Magdalen, Munster- 
square. 

By Messrs. Raphael, Brandon, 
AND Robert Ritchie : 

Catholic and Apostolic [or Irving- 
ite] Church, Gordon-square. 

The Stations of the great Rail¬ 
ways, viz.. Great Western, 
North Western, Great North¬ 
ern, South Eastern, Victoria, 
Midland Counties, &c. 


§ 29. Objects of Interest to the Antiquary. 

The British Museum. 

The Tower. White Tower, Armoury, Regalia. 

Westminster Abbey, and Chapter House. 

The Remains of London Wall, in St. Martin’s-court, off Ludgate-hill. 

London Stone, inserted in the outer wall of the church of St. Swithin 
in Cannon-street. The top is seen through an oval opening. 
Camden considers it to have been the central iUllianum, or mile¬ 
stone, similar to that in the Forum at Rome, from which the 
British high roads radiated, and from which the distances on them 
were reckoned. It is a block of Kentish Rag (Lower Greensand), 
encased in a frame of Bath stone. Jack Cade struck London Stone 
with his staff, exclaiming, “ Now is Mortimer lord of this City.” 

The Collection at the City of London Library, at Guildhall. 

The Roman Bath under the Coal Exchange, at Billingsgate. 

The Museum of the Society of Antiquaries, at Somerset House. 
Write to the Secretary, for permission. 

The Gothic Churches named in p. xlvii. 

St. John’s Gate, Clerkenwell. 

Stained-glass AVindow, in St. Margaret’s, AVestminster. 

Monument of Camden, in AA’’estminster Abbey. 

Monument of Stow, in St. Andrew’s Undershaft, Leadenhall-street. 

g The China (especially Faience of Henri II.) of Sir Anthony db 
Rothschild, Bart., 2, Grosvenor-place Houses, Hyde-Park-conier. 

Sword and Turquoise Ring of James I A’’, of Scotland, at Heralds’ 
College. 

South Kensington Museum. Collection of Italian and other sculpture, 
wood carvings, majolica, ivories, &c., free. (See Sect, xix.) 

§ 30. Places and Sights, Museums, d:c., which a Stranger 

must see. 

The Tower, daily, Sundays excepted, 10 to 4, charge l.v. 

AVestminster Abbey, to be seen daily, Sundays excepted. 

St. Paul’s Cathedral, daily, Sundays excepted. 

British Museum, free, Mondays, AVednesdays, and Fridays, 10 to 4. 



in London.] § 30. PLACES AND SIGHTS TO BE SEEN. 


49 




National Gallery, free, Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and 
Saturdays. 

Houses of Parliament. Saturday, between 10 and 4, Tickets are to 
bfi obtained by all respectable applicants (gratis), at the Lord Great 
Chamberlain’s office, in the Court, near the Victoria Tower. 

Westminster Hall. 

South Kensington Museum. Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays. 

St. Jame.s’s Park and Palace. 

Lambeth Palace, to be seen by order from the Archbishop of Can* 
terbury. 

Apsley House, to be seen by order from the Duke of Wellington. 

Hyde Park, Rotten Row, and the Serpentine Drive, between 12 and 
2, and 5 to 7 p.m., from May to July. 

Kensington Gardens, between | past 5 and J past 6 in May and June. 
The band plays Tuesdays and Fridays. 

WhitehaiiL Banqueting House, in front of which Charles I. was be¬ 
headed. 

Thames between Chelsea and Greenwich. 

Charing Cross and Charles I.’s Statue. 

Waterloo Bridge. 

Thames Tunnel, open daily, admission IJ. By steam from Hungerford 
or London Bridge. 

London Docks. Get a tasting order for the wine-vaults. 

Metropolitan Cattle Market (the modern Smithfield); to see the 
market, go early on a Monday. 

CovENT-GARDEN MARKET; go on a Saturday moming early. 

London Stone. (Described above.) 

Temple Bar and St. John’s Gate. 

The Monument, to commemorate the Fire of London in 1666, open 
daily, Sundays excepted, admission 3<i. 

Old Priory Church of St. Bartholomew in Smithfield. 

Temple Church, during Sunday moming service. A Bencher’s order, 
or personal introduction, will admit you to the best seats. From 
Monday to Friday inclusive, the church is to be seen without a 
bencher’s order. 

1 Masterpiece,.) 

Zoological Gardens, Regent’s Park. 

Royal Horticultural Gardens, South Kensington. 

Goldsmiths’ Hall. 

Soane Museum, Lincoln’s Inn Fields. 

Royal Exchange. 

Bank of England. 10 to 3. Any one may walk through. 

The Mint. Shown on Thursday by Ticket from the master. 

Christ’s Hospital, the children supping in public every Sunday evening 
from Quinquagesima Sunday to Easter Sunday inclusive. 

Museum of the College of Surgeons. (For men of science.) 

St. Paul’s Cathedral from Blackfriars’ Bridge; ditto, from Sermon- 
lane. 

Allsopp and Sons’Burton Ale Warehouses, Haydon-square, Minories, 
(occupying 20,000 square feet). 

Bass’s Ditto, Midland Railway Terminus. 

Barclay’s Brewery, in Southwark, near London Bridge, is to be seen 
by order from the Messrs. Barclay. 

Times * Newspaper Office, Printing-house-square, Blackfriars, to be 


* The Times usually comprises 72 columns, or 17,500 line.s—contain¬ 
ing more than a million different pieces of type. More marvellous 

d 



50'^' § 30. PLACES AND SIGHTS TO BE SEEN. [The Strange, 

seen by order signed by the printer of the paper. The office of this 
world-faraons Paper is placed in one of the most labyrinthine recesses 
to be seen in London. 

Clowes’s Printing Office, S tarn ford-street, Blackfriars, to be seen by 
order from Messrs. Clowes & Son. 

Lord’s Cricket-Ground, near the Eyre Anns, St. John’s AVood, when 
a match is being played. 

Museum of Practical Geology, and of the Mineral Productions of 
Great Britain and her Colonies, in Piccadilly, entrance in Jermyn- 
street. 

United Service Museum, at Whitehall. 

East India Museum, Fife House, Whitehall Yard. Mondays, Wednes¬ 
days, and Fridays, from 10 to 4. Products of India, and other 
curiosities. 

London Bridge, about \ past 9 in the morning, when it is most crowded 
with passengers, all pushing into the City on business; or at J past 
4 and 5 p.m. 

AV'estminster Bridge. Best point of view for the Houses of Parliament 

The Opening of Parliament, generally in February, and its proroga¬ 
tion, generally in July. 

The Horticultural F£tes at the Koyal Botanic Gardens, T May. 
Regent’s Park; and at the Royal Horticultural Society’s-< June. 
Garden, South Kensington. (_ July. 

The Thames, by moonlight, from AVestminster Bridge. 

The Great Hall of the North-AVestern Terminus, Euston-square. 

The Post Office Arcade, St. Martin’s-le-Grand, at 6 o’clock on Satur¬ 
days, when the grand rush to post newspapers takes place. To 
seethe sorting process immediately after, an order from Sir Rowland 
Hill is necessary, and is granted only on application of foreign 
ministers, &c. 

The Inner Temple Gardens. 

The Bank of England Cellars, and Machines for weighing coin 
and printing bank-notes, by order from a Director. 

The Coal Exchange, Lower Thames-street. 

The Long Room in the Custom House. 

Break-neck Stairs off the Old Bailey, affording a capital notion 
of the strength of London when enwalled. 

§ 31. Places near London which a Stranger should sec. 

AVindsor Castle, by Great AVestern Railway from Paddington, or by 
South AA’^estern Railway from AA’^aterloo Station, l'ime—1 hr. 5 or 
10 min. The state apartments are open gratis to the public on 
Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, by the Lord Chamber¬ 
lain’s tickets, to be obtained in London (gratis) of Messrs. Colnaghi. 
14, Pall-mall East; of Mr. Mitchell, 33, Old Bond-street; and of 
Air. AVright, CO, Pall-mall; of whom also Guide-books may be ob¬ 
tained, for one penny each. The hours of admission are—from 1st 
April to 31st October, between 11 and 4; and from 1st November 

^ to 31st Maixh, between 11 and 3. They are not shown when the 

L Queen is in residence. AVithin the Castle walls is the Chapel —one 


still, two-fifths of the matter of which the type is the exponent, was 
xmwritten at seven o’clock on the previous evening. The number of 
compositors employed is 110, and the number of pressmen 25. The 
Times prints 200 sheets a minute. 

The circulation of the Times is 59,000 per diem; of these 33,000 are 
distributed by news-agents in London; 26,000 go into the country (of 
which 22,000 are conveyed by railway trains), and 5,800 by post.— Chan¬ 
cellor of the Exchequer in the “ Times ” of March \2th, 1855. 



in London.] § 31. PLACES NEAR LONDON TO BE SEEN. 5 I* 


of the most elegant Perpendicular edifices in the world. Nothing 
can surpass the grandeur of the cho'r, hung round with the ban¬ 
ners, helmets, and insignia of the Knights of the Garter. It is 
lighted by a modern K. window of painted glass —a memorial to 
the Prince Consort. See al.so the monument of Princess Charlotte 
(an inferior work of Wyatt), of Edward IV., in Gothic iron-work, 
wrought by Quintin Matsys. See also the view from the Castle 
Terrace —ihe Long Walk and Windsor Park. The Inns at Windsor 
are the White Hart (good) arid the Crown. 

Eton College, and Chapel, I mile from AVindsor. Eton is connected 
with it by a bridge over the Thames. 

Hampton Court, by South-Western Railway, three-quarters of an hour 
distant from AVaterloo Station. The state apartments are open 
gratuitously to the public on every day except Friday (when they are 
closed io be cleaned), from 10 o’clock, a.m., until 6 o’clock (Sundai/s 
from 2 to 6), from the 1st of April to the 1st of October, and the 
remainder of the year from 10 until 4. The Vine, in the Private 
Garden, and the Maze, in the AVilderness, are open every day until 
sunset; for these a small fee is required by the gardeners who show 
them. Inns—The King’s Arms, the Mitre, and the Greyhound. 

Guide-books (price 6d. and 3d.), containing a complete catalogue of 
the pictures, may be had in the Palace. 

Greenwich Hospital, by Greenivich Railway from Charing Cross or 
London Bridge Station, or bj’^ steamboat from Ilungerford Stairs, or 
London Bridge. (See Painted Hall, Index.) 

AV’’oolwicii Arsenal, by North Kent Railway from London Bridge or by 
Railway to Blackwall Pier, and thence by Steamer; or by Steamer 
from Ilungerford or London Bridge. Open every day, except 
Sundays. Arsenal and Royal Military Repository, 9 till half-past 
11; 1 till 4. Admission. —By tickets given by the Master-General 
of the Ordnance, certain Officers of the Artillery, or the personal 
escort of any of the officers. Strangers are admitted to walk about 
the grounds of the Arsenal, but Jiot to enter the buildings. In the 
Arsenal: the Foundry for casting and boring cannon is shown by 
special tickets on Tuesdays. In the Laboratory the several sorts 
of ammunition are prepared; percussion caps, cartridges, rockets, 
and shells are made and filled; heie also is the machinery of all 
kinds for preparing articles for the use of the Artillery service. 

On AVoolwich Common, near the Royal Artillery Barracks and 
Militaiy Academy, is the Rotunda, or Royal Military Repository 
(open daily to the public, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.), a museum of models of 
Batteries, Artillery, Vessels, Barracks, various Forts, Towns, 
Rock of Gibraltar, Lmes of Torres Vedras, &c. In front of the 
Artillery Barracks is the Trophy Gun (16 ft. 4 in. long), taken at 
Burtpoor. It was made for the Emperor Aurengzebe, 1677. 
Also 4 Florentine cannon, 1750. The best way of seeing AVool¬ 
wich and its curiosities is to obtain the escort of an Artillery officer. 
The Government Ordnance Stores in all parts of the world are 
valued at six millions, and of this sum, goods to the value of more 
than 2 millions are deposited at AVoolwich. Everything necessary 
to equip an army is here provided in readiness; a siege train of 
105 guns, and 750 rounds for each. 

Woolwich Dockyard, open daily, 9 to 11, and li to 3, in winter, to 
5 in summer. See the Docks, Basins, Building Sheds, Blacksmiths’ 
Shops, Nasmyth’s Hammers, and Machinery. 

Cry.stal Palace, at Sydenham, erected 1853-4, at a cost of £1,450,000— 
one million more than the original estimate. The expenses have 
been £60,000 a year. Trains from London Bridge and Victoria 


52^ 


§ 32. HINTS TO FOREIGNERS, ETC. 


[The Stranger 


Station, Pimlico, and from Ludgate Hill and Victoria Stations of 
the London, Chatham, and Dover Railway, to the High Level 
Station of the Crystal Palace, every i liour. The inspection of the 
interior will furnish occupation for 3 or 4 liours. Concert every 
day. The exteruor, gardens and water-works, alone will repay a 
visit. Open daily. Is,; Saturdays, 2s. 6<i.; Children, Is, 

Dulw^ich Gallery, a fine collection of pictures, by old masters, open 
daily (except Sunday) 10 to 5, free. Omnibus from Charing 
Cross ; rail from Victoria Station and London Bridge, 

Holland House, Kensington, can be seen only by order. The exterior, 
however, will repay a visit, and may be seen from the Kensington- 
road, A pleasant walk up pathway near the house, 

Hampstead and Highoate, the two companion bills north of London, 
are pleasant places in themselves, and afford excellent views of 
London, 

Kew Royal Botanic Gardens are open (see Section iv.) to the public 
every day from 1 till dark; Sundays 2 to 6, The Boyal Pleasure 
Grounds constitute a separate though adjoining portion of orna¬ 
mental ground, open to the public from Midsummer-day to Michael¬ 
mas, every day, by three gates: two in the road leading from 
Kew to Richmond, called the Lion Gate and the Pagoda Gate, and 
one by the river side, nearly opposite Brentford Ferry, and called 
the Brentford Gate. 

Richmond,—View from the Terrace and the Park. 

View from Greenwich Observatory. 

AVimbledon Common, 1 mile from Putney or Wimbledon Station of 
South Western Railway. In July during the Meetings of the 
National Rifle Association and the Volunteer Reviews. 

View from Harrow Churchyard. 

St. Alban’s Abbey, 21 miles north of London (trains from Euston- 
square, L. and N. W. Railway, in 1^ hour), a very fine Early Norman 
ctiurch, of great length. Tower, perhaps Saxon; shrine of Duke 
Humphrey. In St. Michael’s Church, about 1 mile from the abbey, 
the great Lord Bacon is buried. Here is a statue of him. Roman 
walls of Verulam. 

At Chiswick,* 5 miles W. of Hyde Park Comer, is the Villa of the 
Duke of Devonshire, and the Experimental Garden of tlie Horti¬ 
cultural Society. In the churchyard is the grave of Ugo Foscolo— 
Italian Radical and author. Pope lived in Mawson’s-buildings 1716 
—17, where he worked on his Homer, &c. Here his father died. 

For Equestrians. — Rides in the neighbourhood of London —Besides the 

Parks—Hyde Pai k, Green Park, and Regent’s Park. 

a. The Finchley Road — from St. John’s Wood to Hampstead 

Heath, and Highgate. 

b. Battersea Park—a terrace ride by the side of the river to 

CLapham Common. 

c. By Hyde Park—Kensington, Hammersmith, Barnes Common, 

Roehampton-lane ,Wimbledon Common—return through Wim¬ 
bledon Park (Somerset-road), Wandsworth, and Battersea Park. 

d. Along Finch ley-road to West End—Kilburn to Kensal-green, 

return by Harrow-road. 

§ 32. HINTS TO FOREIGNERS. 

By the law of Great Britain all foreigners have unrestricted right of 
entrance and residence in this country; and while they remain in 
it, are, equally with British subjects, under the protection of tlie law; 
are can they be punished except for an offence against the law, and 
under the sentence of the ordinary tribunals of justice, after a public 


in London.] §34. SPECIAL SERVICES.—§35. STUDIOS. 53 ^" 

trial, and on a conviction founded on evidence given in open Court. No 
foreigners, as such, can be sent out of this country by the Executive 
Government, except persons removed by virtue of treaties with other 
States, confii’med by Act of Parliament, for the mutual surrender of 
criminal offenders. 

Foreigners may obtain admission in general to private collections 
not usually shown, by applying from their several ambassadors or 
ministers to the owner. Such an ambassadorial request will also 
procure for foreigners entrance to the Royal Dockyards, Woolwich 
Arsenal, &c. 

§ 33. NEWSPAPERS. 

The principal London morning newspapers are the Tivies, published 
daily (Sunday excepted). Office, Printing House-square, Blackfriars; the 
Daily News; the Morning Advertiser ; the Standard; the Daily Tele¬ 
graph; the Morning Herald; the Morning Post. For evening news see 
the Second Edition of the Times, the Pall-mall Gazette, the Globe, and 
the Express. Also, Penny Fapers—Standard, Morning and Evening Star, 
and Telegraph. 

§ 31. SPECIAL SUNDAY EVENING SERVICES AND 
POPULAR PREACHERS. 

St. Paul’s, 1 Services of the Church of Eng- 

Westminster Abbey, >- land. Sacred Music, and Sermon, 

Exeter Hall, Strand j at 7 p.m. 

Lincoln’s Inn Chapel. 

Whitehall. — Preachers appointed by the Queen—Special Preachers 
during Lent: Selected Divines from Oxford aud Cambridge. 

All Saints’, Margaret-street. 

Scotch Church, Drury-lane.—Rev. Dr. Cumming at 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. 
Foundling Hospital. —Good music. After service, visitors may see 
the children at their dinner. 

St. James’s Hall, Piccadilly (Nonconformist). 

Mr. Spurgeon’s Tabernacle, close to the Elephant and Castle, a vast 
building of Italian architecture, with porticos, has cost, including 
the land, £31,000, raised by voluntary subscription, 1860-61. It will 
hold 4400 persons. Architect W. W. Pocock. Tickets admitting ^ 
one person for three Sundays cost 3s. In Iront of the pulpit is a 
marble bath, for adult baptism. Ingress to the building is attained 
through 15 doors. 

§ 35. STUDIOS OF THE PRINCIPAL ARTISTS. 
painters. 

Sir Edwin Landseer, R.A. 1, St. John’s-wood-road. 

Sir Francis Grant, F.R.A. 27, Sussex-place, Regent’s-park 

(\ W. Cope, R.A. 19, Hyde-park-gate South. 

J. R. Herbert. Hampstead. 

D. Maclise, R.A. 44, Cheyne-walk, Chelsea. 

W. P. Frith, R.A. 7, Pembridge-villas, Bayswater. — 

E. M. Ward, R.A. 1, Kent-villas, Lansdowne-road, 

Notting-hill. 

E. W. Cooke, R.A. The Ferns, Kensington-gate. 

J. E. Millais . Cromwell Terrace, S. Kensington. — 

S. Watts. Little Holland House, Kensington. 











LONDON AND SUBURBAN RAILWAYS. 


[TUe Stranger 


54 "’ 


SCULPTORS. 


Foley, E.A. 39, Arlington-streef, Mornington- 

crescent. 

Noble. Bruton-street, Bond-street.’ 

E. H. Baily . 17, Newman-street. 

AV. C. Marshall . 47, Ebnry-sti’eet, Eaton-square. 

P. M'Dowell, R.A. 74a, Margaret-street, Cavendish-square. 

Baron Maroclietti. 31, Onslow-square. 

Theed. 12, Henrietta-street, Cavendish-square. 


§36. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. * 

The Metropolitan Board of AVoeks was constituted by an Act of 
Parliament in 1855, superseding numerous local boards, to watch over 
the various lines of communication between different parts of London ; 
to open new avenues in proportion to the increase of traffic; to manage 
the streets, drains, and buildings; and to suggest and carry out im¬ 
provements in all these. The Board consists of 40 members, elected 
by the ratepayers. The Board has an office, where meetings are lield, at 
Berkeley House, Spring Gardens, a handsome edifice erected for the 
purpose, 1861, at a cost of £15,000. The principal scheme hitherto yet 
undertaken by the Board is the new system of Main Drainage (see 
Index.) 

For The Embankment of the Thames, see Section vi. 

The other Metropolitan Improvements about to be begun, or in pro¬ 
gress a.reHolborn Valley Viaduct. —A high bridge to avoid the awk¬ 
ward ascent and descent between St. Andrew’s Church and Snow-hill, to 
cost 586,000?. (begun 1867); the widening of Parh-lane, to cost 109,000?. 1 
'^be removal of Middle-row, Eolborn, cost 61,000?.; making Southwark- 
street, Borough, 596,701?.; Victoria Park Approaches, 43,430?.; Chelsea 
Embankment, 106,000?., finished; Lambeth Embankment, S. side of Thames, 
909,000?.; Whitechapel-street, 175,000?. 


LONDON AND SUBURBAN RAILWAYS. 

London is now encircled by a girdle of railways: indeed, very shortly 
it will have a double circle of ironways, chiefly underground, facili¬ 
tating communication with all quarters. 

A. Metropolitan or Underground Railway, from Paddington to Far- 
ringdon Street, was designed to relieve the streets of London from 
excessive goods traffic. The Corporation subscribed £200,000 to the 
undertaking on this account. It runs on a level with or below the 
gas-pipes and water-mains, and has been called “ the Railway of the 
Rats,” the companion of sewers. It consists of 3^ miles of tunnels 
and cuttings from Paddington to Farringdon Street and Moorgate, 
running under the’ New Road and other great thoroughfares. 
Travelling in the dark by this line is by no means disagreeable. 
The carriages are good and well lighted, and the stations conveni¬ 
ent. The engines used condense their steam, and, using coke, there 
is little escape of either smoke or vapour. Engineer, Mr. John 
Fowler—Cost, £1,300,000. 

Trains from 6 a.m to 12 p.m., at intervals of 20 minutes or i hour. 
It begins at 









in London.] LONDON AND SUBURBAN RAILWAYS. 55* 

Bishop's Road Station, Paddington, near the Great Western 
Terminus, Kensington Gardens, Bayswater. 

Edgewars Road Sta. 

Baker street Sta., near to Regent’s Park, W., The Bazaar, Mad. 
Tiissaud. 

Portland Road Sta., close to Regent’s Park. 

Gower Street Road Sta., near London and North-Western Railway 
Terminus, Euston Square. 

King's Cross Sta. —Junction with Great Northern Terminus. 

The Fleet Ditch sewer is carried in a water-tight iron duct over 
Ihe line. Open cuttings now begin, but Coldbath Fields Prison is 
passed in a tunnel. 

Farringdon Street Junction Sta., not far from Holborn and Snow 
Hill. From this the line is prolonged to meet the Chatham and 
Dover Railway at the Ludgate Hill Sta. 

From Farringdon Street, the line is carried near Smithfield, and 
under Barbican and Milton Street, to 

Aldersgate Sta., near the General Post Office, and to 

Moorgate Street Sta., near the Bank, the Royal Exchange, and 
Finsbury. 

The success of the Metropolitan Railway has given ri.se to 
schemes without number for carrying other lines above and below 
ground in all directions through London, and we are threatened with 
a railway station at every street corner. It is too early to pronounce 
which of these lines are likely to be executed. Some of them will, 
no doubt, greatly benefit the public, and cure the growing evil of 
having even the widest streets blocked up by traffic too great for 
them. 


B. Charing Cross to Cannon Street, City, anu London Bridge- 
South-eastern Railway.— Terminus and Hotel W. Strand, be 
tween Villiers-street and Craven-street, on the site of Hungerford 
Market. 

This station is 450 ft. long, 170 ft. wide, 100 ft. high. The rail¬ 
way crosses the Thames by a Lattice Bridge, on cast-iron columns, 
spans of 154 ft. Junction with S. Western Railway at Waterloo Sta. 

Blackfriars' Road Sta., close to Rowland Hill’s chapel. 

The line passes under London, Chatham and Dover Railway, 
coming from Elephant and Castle to Ludgate Hill. It traverses 
the former estate of the Bishop of Winchester, Iron works, &c. &c., 
Messrs. Potts’ Vinegar-yard, on 1, lies, Southwark Bridge, Union 
Square. 

L. Branch over the Thames by a Lattice Bridge, 6 spans, to be 
opened 1866.— Cannon Street Terminus. 

The cost of this line is calculated at £1000 per yard, including 
the two bridges and stations, not much less than 3,000,000/. 


The London Bridge Branch is carried by a Lattice Bridge, over the 
new Street, Southwark; 1. Barclay and Perkins’ Brewery, through 
Borough Market, passing St. Mary Overy church and over Bridge- 
street, Southwark. 




56* LONDON AND SUBURBAN RAILWAYS. [The Stranger 


London Bridge Terminds.— In order to secure an approach to 
London Bridge, the South-Eastern Railway Company was obliged 
to purchase the building and site of St. Thomas’s Hospital, at an 
outlay of 300,COOL 


Q. West London, Hammersmith, 
Finchley Road Sta. 

St. John's IFood Sla. 

Baker Street Junct. Sta. 

E'lgevoare Road, Paddington, Sta. 
Bishop's Road, Paddington, Sta. 
Westhourne Park Sta. 

Netting Hill Sta. 

Shepherd's Bush Sta. 


AND Metropolitan, Railways. 

Hammersmith (Broadway) Sta. 
Kensingston Sta., W. of Holland 
House. 

Chelsea Sta., close to Fiilhara-rd. 
Cross the Thames —Battersea Sta. 
Clapham Junction Sta. 

Victoria Sta. 


D. North London, Hampstead Junction, and North and South- 
Western Junction Railways. Trains every i hour. 


Broad Street (City) Terminus. 
Shoreditch Sta. 

ITaggerston Sta. 

Dahton Sta. 


Highbury and Islington Sta. 
Caledonian Road Sta. 
Camden Town Junct. 

Chalk Farm Sta. 


Fenchurch Street Sta. 
Stepney Junct. Sta. 
Bow Sta. 

Hackney Sta. 

Victoria Park Sta. 


Kingsland Road Sta. 

Mildmay Park (Stoke Newington) 
Sta. 


Kentish Town Sta. 

Hampstead Sta. 

Finchley Road Sta. 

Edgeware Road (Kilhurn) Sta. 
Harlesden Green Sta. 

Hammersmith Sta. (Botanic Gar 
dens Kew Roetd) 

Acton Sta. 


E. London and Blackwall Railway. 

Fenchurch Street Term. East and West India Docks Sta. 

Shadwell Sta. Poplar Sta. 

Stepney Junction of N. London Sta. Blackwall J unct. Sla. 

Limehouse Sta. 


F. Victoria Station, Pimlico to 
Chatham and Dover Railway 
Battersea Park Sta. 

Stewart's Lane Sta. 

Wandsworth Road Sta. 

Clapham and N. Stockwell Sla. 
Brixton and 8. Stockwell Sta. 
Loughborough Road Sta. 
Camberwell New Road Sta. 


Ludgate Hill— branch of London 

Wahoorth Road Sta. 

Elephant and Castle Sla. 

Borough Road Sta. 

Blackfriars Bridge Sta. 

CroFS the Thames — Li dgate 
Hill. Terminus in Biidge- 
street. 









in London.] LONDON AND SUBURBAN RAILWAYS. 


57 


* 


G. Metbopolitan District Extension Railway, from Broad Street, 
City, to Westminster, Victoria Station, and South Kensington by 

^ This Railway will complete a cir- 
Mark Lane, .. j t j i, 

cult round London, begun by 

Trinity Square, Tower Hill, 


the Metropolitan. It will pass 
under or along the Thames em¬ 
bankment. 


Cannon Street, 

Blackfbiars, 

Charing Cross. 

Cannon Street, Westminster Bridge. 

Broadway, Westminster. 

Victoria Station, close to Terminus of Chatham and Dover, 
Brighton, Crystal Palace, and other Railways. 

South Kensington. 

Kensington. 

Netting Hill. ' 

Pembridge Square and Leinster Gardens. 

Edgeware Road. 






MODEEN LONDON 


ll.-PALACES OF THE SOVEREIGN AND ROYAL 
FAMILY. 

The Town Palaces are Buckingham Palace, in which her 
Majesty used to reside; St. James’s Palace, in which her 
Drawing-rooms are held; the beautiful fragment of the 
Palace of Whitehall, used as a Chapel Royal, commonly 
known as Inigo Jones’s Banqueting-house; and the Palace 
at Kensington, in which her Majesty was born. 

1. BUCKINGHAM PALACE, in St. James’s Park, was com¬ 
menced in the reign of George IV., on the site of Buckingham 
House, by John Nash, and completed in the reign of 
William IV., but never inhabited by that sovereign, who is 
said to have expressed his great dislike to the general appear¬ 
ance and discomfort of the whole structure. When the first 
grant to George IV. was given by Parliament, it was intended 
only to repair and enlarge old Buckingham House; and 
therefore the old site, height, and dimensions were retained. 
This led to the erection of a clumsy building, probably at 
a cost little inferior to that which would have produced 
an entirely new Palace. On her Majesty’s accession several 
alterations were effected, and new buildings added to the 
S.; her Majesty enteiing into her new Palace on the 13th 
of Jidy, 1837. Other and more extensive alterations have since 
taken place by the removal of a Marble arch, and the erection, 
at a cost of 150,000^., of an E. front, under the superintendence 
of Mr. Blore. The chapel on the S. side, originally a conser¬ 
vatory, was consecrated in 1843. The Grand Staircase is of 
white marble, with decorations by L. Gruner. The magni¬ 
ficent Ball-room, on the S. side, was finished, 1856, fi’om 
Pennethorne’s designs, and decorated within by Gruner. The 
Green Drawing-room opening upon the upper story of the por¬ 
tico of the old building is 50 feet in length, and 32 in height. 
At state balls, to which the invitations often exceed 2000, 

B 




2 


II.—BUCKINGHAM PALACE. 


those having the entree alight by the temporary garden en¬ 
trance, and the general circle enter by the grand hall. Visitors 
are conducted through the Green Drawing-room to the 
Picture Gallery and the Grand Saloon. On these occasions 
refreshments are served in the Gai-ter-room and Green 
Drawing-room, and supper laid in the principal Dining-room. 
The concerts, invitations to which seldom exceed 300, are 
given in the Grand Saloon. The Throne-room is 64 feet in 
length, and hung with crimson satin, striped. The ceiling 
of the room is coved, and richly emblazoned with arms; 
here is a "white marble frieze (the Wars of the Roses), 
designed by Stothard and executed by Baily, R.A. In the 
Gardens is the Queen’s summer-house, containing frescoes 
from Milton’s Comus, executed in 1844-5, by Eastlake, 
Maclise, Landseer, Dyce, Stanfield, Uwins, Leslie, and Ross. 
The ornaments and borders are by Gruner. The Queen 
has 325,000^. a year settled upon her, of wLich 60,000^. 
a year only is in her own hands; the remainder is spent 
by the Lord Chamberlain of the Household, the Lord 
Steward of the Household, and other great officers attached 
to the Court. The pictures, principally collected by George 
IV., include the choice collection of Sir Thomas Baring, 
chiefly Dutch and Flemish. They are almost without ex¬ 
ception first-rate works. The portraits are in the State 
Rooms adjoining. Observe — 

Albert Durer : An Altar Piece in three parts.— Mabuse : St. Matthew 
called from the receipt of Custom.— Rembrandt : Noli me Tangere; 
Adoration of the Magi; The Ship-builder and his wife (veiy fine, cost 
George IV. when Prince of Wales, 6000 guineas); Burgomaster Pancras 
aud his Wife.— Rubens: Pythagoras, the fruit and animals by Snyders ; 
A Landscape; The Assumption of the Virgin; St. George and the 
Dragon; Pan and Syrinx; The Falconer; Family of Olden Bameveldt. 
— Van Dyck: Marriage of St. Catherine; Clmst healing the Lame 
Man; Study of Three Horses; Portrait of a Man in black ; Queen Henri¬ 
etta Maria presenting Charles, I. with a crown of laurel.— Mytens : 
Charles I. and his Queen, full-length figures in a small picture.— Jansen: 
Charles I. walking in Greenwich Park with his Queen and two children. 
—N. Maes: A Young Woman, with her finger on her lip and in a 
listening attitude, stealing down a dark winding Staircase (very fine).— 
Several fine specimens of Cuyp, Hobbema, Ruysdael, A. Vandervelde, 
Younger Vandervelde, Paul Potter, Backhuysen, Berghem, Both, 
G. Douw, Karel Du Jardin, De Hooghe, Metzu (his own portrait), 
T. Mieris, a. Ostade, I. Ostade, Schalken, Jan Steen, Teniers 
Febburg, &c.—Sir Joshua Reynolds : Death of Dido; Cymon and Iphi- 
genia; His own portrait, in spectacles.— Zoffany : Interior of the 
Florentine Gallery ; Royal Academy in 1773.— Sir P. Lely : Anne Hyde, 
Duchess of York. —Sir D. Wilkie: The Penny Wedding; Blind Man’s 
Buff; Duke of Sussex in Highland dress.— Sir W. Allan : The Orphan ; 
Anne Scott near the vacant chair of her father. Sir Walter Scott.— 
of Admission to view the Pictures :—order from the Lord Chamberlain, 
granted only when the Court is absent. 


II.—OPENING OF PARLIAMENT. 


3 


When Parliament is opened, or prorogued, or dissolved, by 
her Majesty in person, the following is the oi’der observed ;— 
The Queen leaves Buckingham Palace at a quarter before 2, 
being conducted to her carriage by the Lord Chamberlain 
and the Vice-Chamberlain, and her Crown carried to the 
House of Lords by one of the Lord Chamberlain’s chief 
officers. The State procession includes a.carriage di’awn by a 
set of bays, conveying 3 gentlemen ushers and the Exon in 
waiting; a carriage drawn by a set of bays, conveying the 
Groom in waiting, and the Pages of Honour in waiting; a 
carriage drawn by a set of bays, conveying the Equerry in 
waiting, and the Groom of the llobes; a carriage drawn 
by a set of bays, conveying the Clerk Marshal, the Silver 
Stick in -waiting, the Field Officer in waiting, and the Comp¬ 
troller of the Household; a carriage drawn by a set of bays, 
con-v eying the Captain of the Yeomen of the Guard, the 
Lord in waiting, and the Treasurer of the Household; a 
carriage drawn by a set of black horses, conveying the Lady 
in waiting, the Lord Stew’ard, and the Gold Stick in waiting. 
Here the carriage procession is broken by the Queen’s 
Marshalmen, the Queen’s Footmen in State, and a party of 
the Yeoman Guard. Then follows the State Coach drawn 
by 8 cream-coloured horses, conveying the Queen, the 
Mistress of the Robes, and the Master of the Horse. 

Royal Stables. —The Mew’s, concealed from the Palace by 
a lofty mound, contains a spacious riding-school; a room 
expi'essly for keeping state harness; stables for the state 
horses; and houses for 40 carriages. Here, too, is kept the 
magnificent state coach, designed by Sir W. Chambers in 
1762, and painted by Cipriani with a series of emblematical 
subjects; the entire cost being 7661Z. 16s. 5d. The stud 
of horses and the carriage may be inspected by an order 
from the Master of the Horse. The entrance is in Queen’s- 
row, Pimlico. 

2. ST. JAMES’S PALACE. An irregular brick building 
at the bottom of St. James’s Street, was the only London 
Palace of our Sovereigns from the time of the burning of 
Whitehall, in the reign of William III., to the occupation 
of Buckingham Palace by her present Majesty. It was first 
made a manor by Henry VIII., and wus previously an hospital 
dedicated to St. James, and founded for fourteen sisters, 
“maidens that were leprous.” When Henry altered or re¬ 
built it, (it is uncertain which,) he annexed the present Park, 
closed it about with a wall of brick, and thus connected the 

B 2 


4 


II.—ST. James’s palace. 


manor of St. James’s with the manor or Palace of Whitehall. 
Little remains of the old Palace but the dingy, patched-up 
brick gateway towards St. James’s-street, contiguous to which 
is the Chapel Eoyal, bearing, in the chimney-piece of the 
old Presence-chamber, the initials H. A. (Henry and Anne 
Boleyn). 

Drawing-rooms and Levees are still held in this Palace, 
for the purposes of which it is scarcely adequate, though 
it has been somewhat enlarged. It sometimes happens 
that the carriages attending the Drawing-room extend 
from the Palace up Bond-street to Oxford-street. The 

Colour-court” is so called because the standai’d of the 
regiment on duty is planted within it. The watching 
of the Palace is entrusted to the Household Brigade 
of Guards, and the guard is changed every day at a 
quarter to 11, when the band plays in the outer or E. court 
for about a quarter of an hour. The sti’anger should see 
this once. In the Great Council-chamber the odes of the 
Poets Laureate were formerly performed and sung, before 
the King and Queen. Queen Mary I. and Henry, Prince 
of Wales, eldest son of James I., died here. Charles II. 
was born here. Here Charles I. took leave of his children 
the day before his execution; and here he passed his last 
night, walking the next morning “ from St. James’s through 
the Park, guarded wdth a regiment of foot and partisans,” 
to the scaffold before Whitehall. Monk took up his 
quarters in St. James’s House,” while his plans for the 
Restoration were as yet undecided. James II.’s sjn, by 
Mary of Modena, the old Pretender, was born here. A 
contemporary plan of the Palace is dotted with lines, to 
show the way in which the child was said to have been con¬ 
veyed in the warming-pan to her Majesty’s bed in the Great 
Bed-chamber. Queen Anne (then the Princess Anne) de¬ 
scribes St. James’s Palace “as much the properest place to 
act such a cheat in.”* Here died CaroHue, Queen of George II.; 
and here George IV. was born. 

In the dingy brick house on the west side of the Am¬ 
bassadors’ Court, Marshal Blucher was lodged in 1814. He 
was so popular that he had to show himself every day many 
times to the mob, who were content to wait until th^ court 
was filled, when he was vociferously called forward to the 
window to be cheered. 

Every information respecting the mode of ‘presentation at 
Court may be obtained at the offices of the Lord Steward at 

* The room in which the old Pretender was horn was pulled down 
previous to the repairs in 1822 . 


ir.—PRESENTATION AT COURT.—WHITEHALL. 


6 


Buckingham Palace, and of the Lord Chamberlain, in St. 
James’s Palace. Levees are for the presentation of gentlemen 
only; Drawing-rooms are for introducing ladies (principally) 
and are attended by few gentlemen. The days on which 
they take place are advertised in the morning and evening 
papers, with the necessary directions about carriages, &c., 
some days before. The greatest occasion in every year is 
on Her Majesty’s birthday (which is made a kind of movable 
feast), but presentations do not take place on that day. 
Any subject of Great Britain, who has been presented at 
St. James’s, can claim to be presented, through the English 
ambassador, at any foreign court. Tickets to the gallery, 
affording the best sight to the mere spectator, are issued 
by the Lord Chamberlain to persons properly introduced. 
The, names of gentlemen ^wishing to be presented, with 
the name of the nobleman or gentleman who is to pre¬ 
sent them, must be sent to the Lord Chamberlain’s office 
several days previous to presentation, in order that they may 
be submitted for the Queen’s approbation, it being Her 
Majesty’s command that no presentation shall be made at 
any Levees but in conformity with the above regulations. 
Noblemen and gentlemen are also requested to bring with 
them two cards, with their names clearly wi’itten thereon, 
one to be left with the Queen’s Page in attendance in the 
Presence-chamber, and the other to be delivered to the Lord 
Chamberlain, who will announce the name to Her Majesty. 
On the presentation of Addresses to Her Majesty, no com¬ 
ments are suffered to be made. A deputation to present an 
Address must not exceed four persons 

In the Chapel Royal, entered from the Colour Court of 
the Palace, are seats appropriated to the nobility. Service is 
performed at 10 a.m., 12 noon, and SJ. p.m. Admittance for 
strangers, very limited, by tickets from the Lord Chamber- 
lain, or Bishop of London. The service is chaunted by the 
boys of the Chapel Royal. 

3. WHITEHALL. The Palace of the Kings of England 
from Henry VIII. to William III., of which nothing remains 
but Inigo Jones’s Banque ting-house, James II.’s statue, and 
the memory of what was once the Privy Garden, in a row of 
houses, so styled, looking upon the Thames. It was originally 
called York House; was delivered and demised to Henry VIII., 
on the disgrace of Cardinal Wolsey, Archbishop of York, and 
then first called Whitehall. Henry VIII.’s Whitehall was a 
building in the Tudor or Hampton Court style of architec¬ 
ture, with a succession of galleries and courts, a large Hall, a 


6 


II.—WHITEHALL. 


Chapel, Tennis-court, Cockpit, Orchard, and Banqueting- 
house. James I. intended to have rebuilt the whole Palace, 
and Inigo Jones designed a new Whitehall for that King 
worthy of our nation and his own great name. But nothing 
was built beyond the present Banqueting-house, deservedly 
looked upon as a model of Palladian architecture, and one 
of the finest buildings in the whole of London. Charles I. 
contemplated a similar reconstruction, but poverty at first 
prevented him, and the Civil War soon after was a more 
effectual prohibition. Charles II. preserved what money he 
could spare from his pleasures to build a palace at Win- 
chestex'. James II. was too busy about I’eligion to attend to 
ai’chitecture, and in William III.’s reign the whole of White¬ 
hall, except the Banqueting-house, was destroyed by fire. 
William talked of i-ebuilding it after Inigo’s designs, but 
nothing was done. Anne, his successor, took up her abode 
in St. James’s Palace, and Vanbimgh built a house at White¬ 
hall out of the ruins—the house ridiculed by Swift with 
such inimitable drollery. 

The present Banqueting-house was designed by Inigo Jones, 
between 1619 and 1622. The master-mason was Nicholas 
Stone, the sculptor of the fine monument to Sir Fi'ancis Vei’e 
in Westminster Abbey. The Hall is exactly a double cube, 
being 111 feet long, 55 feet 6 inches high, and 55 feet 6 inches 
wide. King Chai'les I. was executed on a scaffold erected in 
front of the Banqueting-house, towards the Pai’k. The waiTant 
directs that he should be executed “ in the open street before 
Whitehall.” Loi'd Leicestei’, in his Jouimal; Dugdale, in his 
Diary; and a Broadsheet of the time, preserved in the British 
Museum, concur in the statement that “ the King was be¬ 
headed at Whitehall-gate,” and it is confirmed by a pi'int of 
the execution published at Amsterdam the same year. There 
cannot, therefore, be a doubt that the scaffold was erected in 
front of the building facing the present Hoi’se Guardg. It 
appeal’s from Herbex't’s minute account of the King’# Ust 
moments, that “the King was led all along the gallex'ies 
and Banqueting-house, and thei’e was a passage brohen 
through the locdl, by which the King passed unto the 
scaffold.” 

The ceiling of the Banqueting-house is lined with pictures 
on canvas, repi’esenting the apotheosis of James I., painted 
abi’oad by Rubens, in 1635. Kneller had heai’d that Eubens 
was assisted by Jordaens in the execution. The sum he 
received was 3000Z. “What,” says Walpole, “ had the Ban¬ 
queting-house been if completed ! Van Dyck was to have 
painted the sides with the history and procession of the 


11.—WHITEHALL.—MARLBOROUGH HOUSE. 


7 


Order of the Garter.” To be seen at all, they must be 
viewed from the south end of the apartment. Within, and 
over the principal entrance, is a bust, in bronze, of James I., 
by Le Socur, it is said. The Banqueting-house was con¬ 
verted into a chapel in the reign of George I., and re¬ 
altered as we now see it, between 1829 and 1837, by Sir 
Robert Smirke. It has never been consecrated. Here, on 
every Maunday Thursday, (the day before Good Friday,) the 
Queen’s eleemosynary bounty (a very old custom) is distri¬ 
buted to poor and aged men and women. 

The statue of James II., behind the Banqueting-house, 
was the work of Grinling Gibbons, and was set up while the 
King was reigning, at the charge of an old servant of the 
crown called Tobias Rustat. The King, it is said, is pointing 
to the spot where his father was executed; and this vulgar 
error, though exposed long ago, is still repeated. Nothing 
can illustrate better the mild character of the Revolution 
of 1688, than the fact that the statue of the abdicated 
and exiled King was allowed to stand, and still stands, in 
the innermost court-yard of what was once his own Palace. 

MARLBOROUGH HOUSE, Pall Mall, St. James’s; the 
residence of H.R.H. Albert Edward Prince of Wales. 
Built 1709-10 by Sir C. Wren for John Churchill, the great 
Duke of Marlborough, on gi’ound leased to him by Queen 
Anne. The great duke and his duchess both died in this 
house. The duchess used to speak of her neighbour George, 
meaning the King in St. James’s Palace, and here she is des¬ 
cribed as receiving a deputation of the Lord Mayor and 
sheriffs, sitting up in her bed in her usual manner.” The 
Pall-mall entrance to the house being, as it still is, extremely 
bad, the duchess designed a new one, and was busy trying 
to effect the necessary purchases when Sir Robert Walpole, 
wishing to vex her, stept in and bought the very leases she 
w^ looking after. The sham archway, facing the principal 
enhance to the house, forms a sort of screen to the parlour 
in Pall-mall. This was turning the lables on the duchess, 
who had employed Wren to vex Vanbrugh. Marlborough 
House was bought by the Crown in 1817 for the Princess 
.Charlotte and Prince Leopold. The Princess died before the 
assignment was effected, but the Prince (subsequently King 
of the Belgians) lived here for several years, and afterwards 
Queen Adelaide, widow of William IV. It was lent for the 
purposes of a Gallery to contain the Vernon and Turner 
pictures belonging to the nation, down to 1859, when they 
were removed to the South Kensington Museum. 


8 


II.—KENSINGTON PALACE. 


4. KENSINGTON PALACE is a large and irregular edifice, 
originally the seat of Heneage Finch, Earl of Nottingham 
and Lord Chancellor of England; whose son, the second 
earl, sold it to King William III., soon after his accession to 
the throne. The lower portion of the building was part of 
Lord Nottingham’s house; the higher story was added by 
William III., from the designs of Wren, and the N.W. 
angle by George II., as a Nursery for his children. William 
III. and Queen Mary, Queen Anne, her husband Prince 
George of Denmark, and King George II., all died in this 
Palace. Her present Majesty was born in it, (1819,) and 
here (1837) she held her first CounciL The Duke of Sussex, 
son of George III., lived, died, and had his fine library in 
this Palace. The Orangery, a very fine detached room, was 
built by Wren. The last memorable interview between 
Queen Anne and the Duchess of Marlborough took place in 
this palace. The collection of pictures (long famous and 
still known as the Kensington Collection to the readers of 
Walpole) has been removed to other palaces; and the 
kitchen-garden has been built over with two rows of de¬ 
tached mansions, called ‘‘ Palace-gardens.” 


III.—LAMBETH PALACE. 


9 


III. HOUSES OF THE PRINOlPAL NOBILITY AND 
GENTRY. 

LAMBETH PALACE, on the S. side of the Thames 
over-against the Palace at Westminster, has been the palace 
of the Archbishops of Canterbury from at least the 13th 
century, and exhibits various gradations in its architecture, 
from Early English to late Perpendicular. The Chapel, the 
oldest part, was built by Boniface, Archbishop of Canter¬ 
bury, (1244-70). It is Early English, with lancet windows 
and a crypt. The roof is new. There is an oak screen 
with the arms of Archbishop Laud, by whom it was 
erected. Before the altar is the grave of Archbishop Parker, 
(d. 1575). In this chapel all the archbishops have been con¬ 
secrated since the time of Boniface. The stained glass 
windows were destroyed in the Civil Wars, and are feelingly 
lamented by Laud in the History of his Troubles. The glass 
now in the windows was placed at the expense of Archbp. 
Howley. The Lollards’ Tower at the W. end of the chapel, 
the oldest brickwork in England since Eoman times, was 
bmlt by Archp. Chicheley, in the years 1434-45, and so called 
from the Lollards, who are said (incorrectly) to have been im¬ 
prisoned in it. In the front facing the river is a niche, in 
which was placed the image of St. Thomas ; and at the top is a 
small room (13 feet by 12, and about 8 feet high) called the 
prison, wainscotted with oak above an inch thick, on which 
several names and broken sentences in old characters are cut, 
as “Chessam Doctor,” “Peiit louganham,” “Ihs cyppemeout 
of all el compane, amen,”“ John Worth,” “Nosce Teipsum,” &c. 
The large iron rings in the wall seem to sanction the sup¬ 
posed appropriation of the room. The Post-room in this 
tower contains an ornamented flat ceiling, of uncommon 
occurrence. The Gate-house of red brick, with stone dressings, 
is said to have been built by Archbishop Morton, Cardinal 
and Lord Chancellor, (d. 1500). The Hall, 93 feet by 38, 
was built by Archbishop Juxon, the bishop who attended 
Charles I. to the scaffold. Over the door (inside) are the arms of 
Juxon, and the date 1663. The roof is of oak, with a louvre 
or lantern in the centre for the escape of smoke. The whole 
design is Gothic in spirit, but poor and debased in its details. 
The bay window in the Hall contains the arms of Philip II. 
of Spain (the husband of Queen Mary); of Archbishops Ban¬ 
croft, Laud, and Juxon; and a portrait of Archbishop^ 


10 


III.—LONDON HOUSE.—APSLEY HOUSE. 


Chicheley. The Library, of about 25,000 volumes, and 
kept in the Hall, was founded by Ai’chbishop Bancroft (d. 
1610); enriched by Archbishop Abbot (d. 1633); and 
enlarged by Archbishops Tenison and Seeker. One of its 
curiosities is a MS. of Lord Rivers’s translation of The Dictes 
and Sayings of the Philosophers, containing an illumination 
of the earl introducing Caxton, the printer (it is said), to 
Edward IV., his Queen and Prince. The portrait of the 
Prince (afterwards Edward V.) is the only one known of 
him. Here are numerous Autograph Letters of Lord Bacon. 
Of the English books in the library printed before 1600, 
there is a brief but valuable catalogue by Dr. Maitland, many 
years librarian. The whole habitable Palace was erected by 
Archbishop Howley from the designs of Edward Blore, and 
contains a few good portraits, such as Archbishop Warham, 
by Holbein, (the picture really from his hand,) Archbishop 
Tillotson, by Mrs. Beale. The income of the Archbishop of 
Canterbury is 15,000Z. a year. The church adjoining the 
red brick gateway of the Palace is the mother-church of 
Lambeth; here several Archbishops of Canterbuxy are 
buried; also Tradescant and Ashmole—the former in the 
churchyard, with altar-tomb (restored 1853), the latter in 
the church with grave-stone. 

LOHDOH HOUSE, Ho. 22, St. James’s Square, town 
residence of the Bishop of London. It has no architectural 
pretensions. The income of the Bishop is fixed at 10,000?. 
a year. The house belongs to the See. 

APSLEY HOUSE, Hyde Park Corner. The London resi¬ 
dence, 1820—1852, of Field Marshal the Duke of Wellington, 
built by Henry Bathurst, Baron Apsley, Earl Bathurst, and 
Lord High Chancellor, (d. 1794,) the son of Pope’s friend. 
The house, originally of red brick, was faced with Bath stone 
in 1828, when the front portico and the W. wing, containing 
on the upper stories a gallery 90 feet long, (to the W.,) were 
added for the great Duke by Messrs. S. & B. Wj^att; but the 
old house is intact. The iron blinds—bullet-proof it is said 
—put up by the great Duke dui’ing the ferment of the Refoian 
Bill, when his windows were broken by a London mob,— 
were taken down in 1855 by the present Duke. 

Olserve .—George IV., full-length, in a Highland costume {Wilkie ).— 
William IV., full-length {Wilkie). —Sarah, the first Lady Lyndhurst 
{Wilkie). This picture was penetrated by a stone, thrown by the mob 
through a broken window, in the Reform Riot, but the injury has 
been skilfully repaired.—Emperor Alexander.—Kings of Prussia, France, 
and the Netherlands, full-lengths. — Full lengths of Lord Lynedoch, 


III.—NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE. 


11 


Marquis of Anglesey, Marquis Wellesley, &c.—Head of Marshal Soult.— 
Two full length portraits of Napoleon, one consulting a map.— Bust of 
Sir Walter Scott {Chantrey). —Bust of Pitt (NoUekens). —Bust of Duke 
—Small bronze of Blucher Battle of Waterloo, 

Napoleon in the foreground {Sir W. Allan). The Duke, bought this 
picture at the Exhibition; he is said to have called it “ good, very 
good, not too much smoke.”—Many portraits of Napoleon, one by David 
extremely good. — h ilkie's Chelsea Pensioners reading the Gazette 
of the Battle of Waterloo, painted for the Duke.— Burnet's Greenwich 
Pensioners celebrating the Anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar, bouglit 
of Burnet by the Duke. Portraits of veterans in both pictures.—Van 
Amburgh and the Lions {Sir E. Zawrfseer).—Highland Whiskey Still 
{Ditto). —Meet at Melton Mowbray {F. Grant). —Colossal marble statue 
of Napoleon, by Canova, with a figure of Victory on a globe in his hand, 
presented in 1817 to the Duke by the Prince Regent.—Bust of Pauline 
Buonaparte {Canova), a present from Canova to the Duke.—Christ on 
the Mount of Olives {Correggio,) the most celebrated picture of Cor¬ 
reggio in this country; on panel, captured in Spain, in the carriage of 
Joseph Buonaparte; restored by the captor to Ferdinand VII., but with 
others, under like circumstances, again presented to the Duke by 
that sovereign. An Annunciation, after 31. Angelo, of which the 
original drawing is in the Ufiflzj at Florence.—The Adoration of the 
Shepherds {Sogliani).~The Water-seller {Velasquez). —Two fine portraits 
by Velasquez, of himself, (and of Pope Innocent X.)—A fine Spagno- 
letto. — Small sea-piece, by Claude. — A large and good Jan Steen (a 
Wedding Feast, dated 1667). — A Peasant’s Wedding {Teniers). — Boors 
Drinking {A. Ostade). —The celebrated Terhurg (the Signing the Peace 
of Westphalia), from the Talleyrand Collection. This picture hung 
in the room in which the allied sovereigns signed the treaty of Paris, in 
1814.—A fine Philip Wouvermans (the Return from the Chase).—View of 
Veght, Vanderheyden. 

The Crown’s interest in the house was sold to the great Duke 
for the sum of 9530Z.; the Crown reserving a right to forbid 
the erection of any other house or houses on the site. 
Marshal Soult, when ambassador from France at the Queen’s 
Coronation, was entertained by the Duke in this house. The 
room in which the Waterloo banquet was held every 18th 
of June is the great west room on the drawing-room floor, 
with its seven windows looking into Hyde Park. ^ 

NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSE, Charing Cross, the 
town-house of the Duke of Northumberland, (with rich cen¬ 
tral gateway, surmounted by the Lion crest of the Percies,) 
and so called after Algernon Percy, Earl of Northumberland, 
(d. 1668,) the subject of more than one of Yan Dyck’s finest 
portraits. It was built by Henry Howard, Earl of North¬ 
ampton, (son of Henry Howard, Earl of Surrey, the poet,) 
Bernard Jansen and Gerard Christmas being, it is said, his 
architects. The Earl of Northampton left it, in 1614, to his 
nephew, Thomas Howard, Earl of Sufiblk, (father of the 
memorable Frances, Countess of Essex and Somei’set,) when 
it received the name of Suffolk House, by which name it was 
known until the marriage, in 1642, of Elizabeth, daughter of 


12 


III.—NORTHUMBERLAND HOUSEf 


Theophilus, second Earl of Suffolk, with Algernon Percy, tenth 
Earl of Northumbei'land, who bought the house of James, Earl 
of Suffolk, for 15,000^., and called it Northumberland House. 
Josceline Percy, eleventh Earl of Northumberland, (son of the 
before-mentioned Algernon Percy,) dying in 1670, without 
issue male, Noi’thumberland House became the property of 
his only daughter, Elizabeth Percy, heiress of the Percy 
estates, afterwards mari'ied to Charles Seymour, commonly 
called the proud Duke of Somerset. The Duke and Duchess 
of Somerset lived in great state and magnificence in Northum¬ 
berland House, for by this title it still continued to be 
called, as the name of Somerset was already attached to an 
older inn or London town-house in the Sti’and. The duchess 
died in 1722, and the duke, dying in 1748, was succeeded by 
his eldest son, Algernon, Earl of Hertford and seventh Duke 
of Somerset, created (1749) Earl of Northumberland, with 
remainder, failing issue male, to Sir Hugh Smithson, 
Bart., husband of his only daughter, which Sir Hugh was 
raised to the Dukedom of Northumberland in 1766. The 
present duke (1856) is the grandson of this Sir Hugh 
Smithson, Duke of N. The house originally formed three 
sides of a quadrangle, (a kind of main body with wings,) 
the fourth side remaining open to the gai'dens and I'iver. 
The principal apartments were on the Strand side; but after 
the estate became the property of the Eaid of Suffolk, the 
quadrangle was completed by a side towards the Thames. 

.The date, 1749, onthefa 9 ade, refers to the work of repara¬ 
tion ; and the letters A. S., P. N., stand for Algernon Somerset, 
Princeps Northumbriae. 

Observe. —The celebrated Cornaro Family, by Titian. Evelyn saw it here 
in 1658. It has been much touched upon. St. Sebastian bound, on 
the ground; in the air two angels : a clear, well-executed picture, by 
Guercino, with figures as large as life. A small Adoration of the 
Shepherds, by Giacomo Bassano. Three half figures in one picture, 
by .DoJsoh, representing Sir Charles Cotterell, embraced by Dobson 
and Sir Balthazar Gerbier in a white waistcoat. A Fox and a 
Deer Hunt; two admirable pictures by Franz Snyders. A genuine 
but ordinary Holy Family, by J. Jordnens. A pretty Girl, with a 
candle, before which she holds her hands, by G. Schalken. The School of 
Athens, after Baphael, copied by Mengs in 1755, and the best copy ever 
made of this celebrated picture. View of Alnwick, by CanaleWi,valuable 
as showing the state of the building, circ. 1750; full-length portrait of 
Edward VI. when a boy of six or seven, assigned to Mabuse, and curious 
—he is in a red dress. A large and fine Buysdael. Josceline, 11th Earl 
of Northumberland, by Wissmg (oval). Portrait of Napoleon when First 
Consul, by T. Phillips, R.A., taken from repeated observation of 
Napoleon’s face. 

All that is old of the present building is the portal towards the 
Strand; but even of this there is a good deal that is new. 


III.—DEVONSHIRE HOUSE.—STAFFORD HOUSE. 13 


The house is massively furnished and in good taste. The stair¬ 
case is stately, the Pompeian room most elegant, and the state 
Drawing-room, with its ten lights to the E., and its noble 
copies after Raphael, is not to be matched in London for mag¬ 
nificence. Many of the fire-places, fenders, and fire-irons ai’e 
of silver. The large Sevres vase in the centre of the great 
room was presented by Charles X. to a former Duke when 
representative of Great Britain at Charles’s coronation in 
1825. 

DEVONSHIRE HOUSE, Piccadilly. A good, plain, 
well-proportioned brick building, built by William Kent, for 
William Cavendish, third duke of Devonshire, (d. 1755). It 
stands on the site of Berheley House, destroyed by fire in 
1733, and is said to have cost the sum of 20,000?., exclusive 
of 1000?. presented to the architect by the duke. Observe .— 
Very fine full-length portraits, on one canvas, of the Prince 
and Princess of Orange, by Jordaens: Fine three-quarter 
portrait of Lord Richard Cavendish, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; 
fine three-quarter portrait, in black dress, by Tintoretto; 
Sir Thomas Browne, author of Religio Medici, and family, 
by Dobson ; fine male portrait, by Lely. Portrait of the Earl 
of Burlington, the architect, by Kneller. The Devonshire 
Gems—a noble collection. The “ Kemble Plays ”—a match¬ 
less series of old English plays, with a rich collection of 
the first editions of Shakspeare,—formed by John Philip 
Kemble, and bought, for 2000?., at his death. The portico 
is modern, and altogether out of keeping with the rest of 
the building. The old entrance, taken down in 1840, was 
by a flight of steps on each side. The magnificent marble 
staircase at the back of the house, with its glass balustrade, 
was erected by the late duke. The grand saloon (part of 
Kent’s design) is decorated in the style of Le Brun. The 
grounds extend to Lansdowne House. 

STAFFORD HOUSE, in St. James’s Park, between St. 
James’s Palace and the Green Park, was built, for the 
Duke of York, (second son of George III.,) with money 
advanced for that purpose by the Marquis of Stafford, after¬ 
wards first Duke of Sutherland (d. 1833). The Duke of 
York did not live to inhabit it, and the Crown lease was 
sold in 1841 to the Duke of Sutherland, for the sum of 
72,000?., and the purchase-money spent in the formation of 
Victoria Park. The upper story w'as added by the duke 
of S. This is said to be the finest private mansion in the 


14 


III.—NORFOLK HOUSE. 


metropolis. The great dining-room is worthy of Versailles. 
The internal arrangements were planned by Sir Charles 
Barry. The pictures, too, ai’e very fine; but the collection 
distributed throughout the house is private, and admission 
is obtained only by the express invitation or permission of 
the duke. The Sutherland Gallery, as it is called, is a noble 
room, 126 feet long by 32 feet wide. Observe — 

Raphael : Christ hearing his Cross; a small full-length figure, seen 
against a sky back-ground between two pilasters adorned with arabesques; 
said to have been brought from a private chapel of the Pope in the 
Ricciardi Palace at Florence.— Guido : Head of the Magdalen; Study for 
the large picture of Atalanta in the Royal Palace at Naples; the 
Circumcision.— Guercino : St. Gregory; St. Grisogono; a Landscape.— 
Parmegiano: Head of a Young Man (very fine).— Tintoretto: A Lady 
at her Toilet.— Titian : Mercury teaching Cupid to read in the presence 
of Venus (an Orleans picture, figures life-size); St. Jerome in the 
Desert; three Portraits.— Murillo (5) : Two from Marshal Soult’s 
Collection: the Return of the Prodigal Son (a composition of nine figures); 
Abraham and the Angels, cost 3000Z.—F. Zurbaran ( 4 ): Three from 
Soult’s Collection (very fine).— Velasquez (2) : Duke of Gandia at the 
Door of a Convent; eight figures, life-size, from the Soult Collection; 
Landscape.— Albert Durer : the Death of the Virgin.— Honthorst : 
Christ before Pilate (Honthorst’s chef d'ceuvre), from the Lucca Collection. 
—N. Poussin (3).—G. Poussin ( 1 ). — Rubens ( 4 ) : Holy Family; Marriage 
of St. Catharine; Sketch, en grisaille, for the great picture in the Louvre, 
of the Marriage of Henry IV. and Marie de Medicis.— Van Dyck ( 4 ); 
Three-quarter portrait of Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel, seated in 
an arm-chair (very fine, and finely engraved by Sharp); two Portraits ; 
St. Martin dividing his Cloak (in a circle).— Watteau (5); all fine. 
—D. Teniers (2) : a Witch performing her Incantations; Ducks in a 
Reedy Pool.— Terburg: Gentleman bowing to a Lady (very fine).— 
Sir Joshua Reynolds: Dr. Johnson without his Wig, and with his 
hands up.— Sir D. Wilkie: the Breakfast Table (painted for the first 
Duke of Sutherland). —Sir T. Lawrence: Lady Gower and Child 
(the Dowager Duchess of Sutherland, and her daughter, the Duchess 
of Argyll).—E. Bird, R.A. : Day after the Battle of Chevy Chase. — 
Sir E. Landseer, R.A.: Lord Stafford and Lady Evelyn Gower (now 
Lady Blantyre).—W. Etty, R.A.: Festival before the Flood.— John 
Martin : the Assuaging of the Waters.— Paul Delaroctie : Lord Straf¬ 
ford on his way to the Scaffold receives the blessing of Archbishop Laud. 
—Winterhalter : Scene from the Decameron.—A collection of 150 
portraits, illustrative of French history and French memoirs. 


The land on which Stafford House stands belongs to the 
Crown, and the duke pays an annual ground-rent for the same 
of 758^. It stands partly on the site of Godolphin House, and 
partly on the site of the Libraiy built by the Queen of George II. 
At least 250,000^. have been spent on Stafford House. 

NORFOLK HOUSE, in the S.-E. corner of St. James’s 
Square, was so called from the seventh Duke of Norfolk, 
who died here, 1701. It was built by Payne. The interior 
is handsome, the first floor consisting of a fine set of drawing- 


111.—MONTAGUE HOUSE.—GROSVENOR HOUSE. 15 

rooms toward the square, terminated by a magnificent dining- 
hall, lined with mirrors, the roof of which is very rich and 
beautiful. The arrangements of the house are not such as 
will allow of its being shown. In the rear is part of an older 
house in which Hemy Jermyn, Earl of St. Alban, of the time 
of Charles II., lived, and in which George III. was born. In it 
are preserved the very valuable records of the great historical 
family of the Howards, and of those of Fitzalan and Mow¬ 
bray, which have merged into it. Observe. —Portrait of the 
First Duke of Norfolk (Howard), three-quarter length, in 
robes, with a marshal’s staff in his hand, Holbein ; —portraits 
of Bishop Trieste, and of Henrietta Maria, in a green dress. 
Van Dyck ; —portrait of his wife, by Rubens ; two very fine 
landscapes, by 8alv. Rosa; the Crucifixion, a curious picture, 
by that rai’e master, Lucas v. Leyden; Family of the Eai’l of 
Arundel, the collector; small figures, by Mytens ; Shield given 
by the Grand Duke of Tuscany to the ill-fated Henry 
Howard, Earl of Surrey, at a tournament in Florence, in 
1537, painted in the style of Perino del Vaga. 

MONTAGUE HOUSE, between Whitehall Gardens 
and Eichmond Terrace, the town-house of the Duke of 
Buccleuch, who inherits it from the noble family of Mon¬ 
tague. Was rebuilt 1859-62, from designs of William Burn, 
architect. The site belongs to the Crown. It contains 
some dark but good pictures by Van Dyck: viz. full- 
length of Duke of Hamilton in armour (hand leaning 
on a helmet), front face, buff boots, hair over forehead, 
(very fine); full-length of Lord Holland,—slashed sleeves, 
hair short on forehead; full-length of Duke of Eich¬ 
mond, in complete black—yellow hair over shoulders, 
brownish back-ground. 35 sketches {en grisaille), by Van 
Dyck, made for the series of portraits etched in part by 
Van Dyck, and published by Martin Vanden Enden; they 
belonged to Sir Peter Lely. One of Canaletti's finest 
pictures, a view of Whitehall, showing Holbein’s gateway, 
Inigo’s Banqueting-house, and the steeple St.-Martin’s-in- 
the-Fields with the scaffolding about it. A noble collec¬ 
tion of English miniatures, from Isaac Oliver’s time to the 
time of Zincke. 

GEOSVENOE HOUSE, Upper Grosvenor Street. The 
town-house of the Marquis of Westminster. The handsome 
screen of classic pillars, with its double archway dividing the 
court-yard from the street, was added in 1842. Here is the 
Grosvenor Gallery of Pictures, founded by Eichard, first Earl 


16 


III.—LANSDOWNE HOUSE. 


Grosvenor, and augmented by his son, and grandson, the 
present noble owner. Rubens and Claude are seen to great 
advantage. Observe — 

Raphael (5): but, according to Passavant, npt one by Raphael’s own 
hand.—M urillo (3): one a large Landscape with Figures.—V elasquez 
( 2): his own Head in a Cap and Feathers; Prince of Spain on Horseback, 
small full-length.—T itian (3): the Woman taken in Adultery; a 
Grand Landscape; the Tribute Money.—P aul_Veronese (3): Virgin 
and Child; the Annunciation; Marriage at Cana”; small finished Study 
for the Picture at Venice.—G uido (5): Infant Christ Sleeping (fine, 
engraved by Strange); LaFortuna; St. John Preaching; Holy Family; 
Adoration of the Shepherds.—S alvator Rosa (4): one, his own Portrait. 
—Claude (10) : all important, and not one sea-piece among them.— 
N. Poussin (4): Infants at Play (fine).—G. Poussin (3).—Le Brun (1): 
Alexander in the Tent of Darius (finished Study for the large picture in 
the Louvre).—R embrandt (7): his own Portrait; Portrait of Berghem: 
Ditto of Berghem’s Wife; the Salutation of Elizabeth (small and very 
fine); a Landscape with figures.—R ubens (11) : Sarah dismissing Ilagar; 
Ixion; Rubens and his first wife, Elizabeth Brandt; Two Boy Angels; 
Landscape (small and fine); the Wise Men’s Offering; Conversion of 
St. Paul (sketch for Mr. Miles’s picture at Leigh Court); Four Colossal 
Pictures, painted when Rubens was in Spain, in 1629, and bought by Earl 
Grosvenor, in 1810, for 10,000i. — Van Dyck (2): Virgin and Child; 
I’ortrait of Nicholas Laniere (this picture induced Charles I. to invite 
Van Dyck to England).— Paul Potter (1) : View over the Meadows of 
a Dairy Fann near the Hague, Sunset (fine).— Hobbema (2). — Gerard 
Douw (1).—CuYP (4 ).—Snyders (2).—Teniers (3). —Van Huysum (1).— 
Vandervelde (1). —WouvERMANS (1) ! a Horse Fair. —Hogarth (2) : 
the Distressed Poet; a Boy and a Raven.— Sir Joshua Reynolds (1) : 
Mrs. Siddons, as the Tragic Muse, the original picture, cost 1760^. 
(a masterpiece).— Gainsborough (3), all very fine : the Blue Boy; the 
Cottage Door; a Coast Scene.—R. Wilson (1) : View on the River Dee. 
— B. West (5): Battle of La Hogue; Death of General Wolfe; Wil¬ 
liam III. passing the Boyne; Cromwell dissolving the Long Parliament; 
Landing of Charles II. Admission —On Thursdays between 2 and 5 in 
the months of May and June, by order granted by the Marquis of 
Westminster. 

LANSDOWNE HOUSE, on the S. side of Berkeley 
Square, was built by Robert Adam for the Marquis of Bute, 
when minister to George III., and sold by the marquis, before 
completion, to Lord Shelburne, afterwards Marquis of Lans- 
downe, for 22,000?., which was supposed to be 3000?. less 
than it cost. Priestley was living in Lansdoione Home as 
librarian and philosophic companion to Lord Shelburne, 
when he made the discovery of oxygen. The first cabinet 
council of Lord Grey’s administration was held in this 
house; and here, at the same meeting, it was resolved that 
Brougham should be Lord Chancellor. The Sculpture 
Galleiy, commenced 1778, contains the collection formed by 
Gavin Hamilton, long a resident in Rome. At the E. end is 
a large semicircular recess, containing the most important 
statues.* Down the sides of the room are ranged the bust.s 


0 


III.—BRIDGEWATER HOUSE. 


17 


and other objects of ancient art. Obsen'e. —Statue of the 
Youthful Hercules, heroic size, found in 1790, with the 
Townley Discobolus, near Hadrian’s Villa; Mercury, heroic 
size, found at Tor Columbaro, on the Appian Way. Here is 
a statue of a Sleeping -Female, the last work of Canova; also, 
a copy of his Venus, the original of which is in the Pitti 
Palace at Florence. A marble statue of a Child holding an 
alms-dish, by Rauch of Berlin, will repay attention. The 
Collection of Pictures Avas entirely formed by the present 
Marquis, since he came to the title in 1809. Observe. —St. 
John Preaching in the Wilderness, a small early picture 
by Raphael; half-length of Count Federigo da Bozzola, by 
Seb. del Piomho; full-length of Don Justino Francisco Neve, by 
MiiHllo ; head of himself, head of the Count Duke d’Olivarez 
{Velasquez)] two good specimens of Schidone ; Peg Woffing¬ 
ton, by Hogarth; 12 pictures by Sir Joshua Reynolds — 
including The Sleeping Girl, The StraAvberry Girl, Hope 
Nursing Love, and the noble portrait of Laurence Sterne; 
Sir Robert Walpole, and his first wife, Catherine Shorter, by 
Echhart (in a frame by Gibbons—from Strawberry Hill); 
full-length of Pope, by Jervas; Portrait of Flaxman, by 
Jackson, R.A. ; Deer Stalkers returning from the hills 
{E. Landseer); Italian Peasants approaching Rome (Eastlake) ; 
Sir Roger de Coverley and the Spectator going to Church 
(0. R. Leslie)] Sir Roger de Coverley and the Gipsies {ditto)] 
Olivia’s return to her Parents, from the Vicar of Wakefield 
{G. S. Newton, R.A.)] Macheath in Prison {ditto). Some 
of these have been removed to Bowood in Wiltshire, the 
country seat of the noble Marquis. The iron bars at the 
two ends of Lansdowne-passage (a near cut from Curzoii- 
street to Hay-hill) were put up, late in the last century, in 
consequence of a mounted liighwayman, who had committed 
a robbery in Piccadilly, having escaped from his pursuers 
through this narrow passage, by riding his horse up the steps. 


BRIDGEWATER HOUSE, St. James’s, fronts the Green 
Park, and was built 1846-51, from the designs of Sir Charles 
Barry, for Francis, Earl of Ellesmere, great nephew, and 
principal heir of Francis Egerton, Duke of Bridgewater. 
The duke, dying in 1803, left his pictures, valued at 150,000?., 
to his nephew, the first Duke of Sutherland (then Marquis of 
Stafford), with remainder to the marquis’s second son, 
Francis, late Earl of Ellesmere. The collection contains 47 
of the finest of the Orleans pictures; and consists of 127 
Italian, Spanish and French pictures; 158 Flemish, Dutch, 

0 


18 


III.—BRIDGEWATER HOUSE. 


and German pictures; and 33 English and German pictures 
—some 322 in all. 

“ There is a deficiency of examples of the older Italian and German 
schools in this collection; hut from the time of Raphael the series is more 
complete than in any private gallery I know, not excepting the Licliten- 
stein Gallery at Vienna. The Caracci school can nowhere be studied to 
more advantage.”— 3Irs. Jameson. 

Ohsene. —(O. C. signifying Orleans Collection.) 

Raphael (4) ; la Vierge an Palmier (in a circle); one of two Madonnas 
painted at Florence in 1506 for his friend Taddeo Taddei, O.C.; la plus 
Belle des Vierges, O.C.; la Jladonna del Passeggio, O.C.; la Vierge au 
Diademe (from Sir J. Reynolds’s collection? ).—S. del Piombo (1); the 
Entombment.— Luini (1): Female Head, O.C.— Titian (4); Diana and 
Actreon, O.C., (very fine); Diana and Calisto, O.C., (very fine); the 
Four ages of Life, O.C.; Venus Rising from the Sea, O.C.— Paul Ve- 
KONESE (2): the Judgment of Solomon; Venus bewailing the death of 
Adonis, O.C.— Tintoretto (3): Portrait of a Venetian Gentleman, O.C.; 
the Presentation in the Temple (small sketch); the Entombment, O.C. 
— Velasquez (3) : Head of Himself; Philip IV. of Spain (small full- 
length) ; full-length of the natural son of the Duke d’Olivarez (life-size, 
and fine).— Salv.Rosa (2): les Augures (small oval, very fine).— Gaspar 
Poussin (4): Landscapes.—N. Poussin (8): The Seven Sacraments of 
the Roman Catholic Chuicli, O.C.; Moses striking the Rock (very fine), 
O.C.— An. Caracci (7) : St. Gregory at Prayer; Vision of St. Francis, 
O.C.; Daniie, O.C.; St. John the Baptist, O.C.; same subject, O.C.; Christ 
on the Cross, O.C.; Diana and Calisto, O.C.—L. Caracci (6) : Descent 
from the Cross, O.C.; Dream of St. Catherine; St. Francis; aPieta;2 
Copies after Correggio.— Domenichino (5). — Guido (2) : Infant Christ 
sleeping on the Cross, O.C.; Assumption of the Virgin (altar-piece).— 
Guercino (2): David and Abigail, O.C.; Saints adoring the Trinity 
(study).— Bekghem(5). — Ruysdael(6). — Claude (4): Morning (a little 
picture); Morning, with the story of Apuleius; Evening, Moses before the 
Burning Bush; Morning (composition picture).— Rembrandt (5): Samuel 
and Eli; Portrait of Himself; Portrait of a Burgomaster; Portrait of a 
Lady; Head of a Man.— Rubens (3); St.Theresa (sketch of the large picture 
in the Museum at Antwerp); IMercury b'Jaring Hebe to Olympus; Lady 
with a fan in her hand (half-length). —Van Dyck (1) : the Virgin and 
Child.— Backhuysen (2).— Cuyp (6): Landing of Prince Maurice at 
Dort (the masterpiece of this artist).— Vandervelde (7): Rising of the 
Gale (veiy fine); Entrance to the Brill; a Calm; Two Naval Battles; 
a Fresh Breeze; View of the Texel. —Teniers (8): Dutch Kermis or 
Village Fair (76 figures); Village Wedding; Winter Scene in Flanders, 
the Traveller; Ninepins; Alchymist in his Study; Two Interiors.— Jan 
Steen (2): the Schoolmaster (very fine); the Fishmonger .—A. Ostade (6): 
Interior of a Cottage; Lawyer in his Study; Village Alehouse; Dutch 
Peasant drinking a Health; Tric-Trac; Dutch Courtship.—G. Douw 
(3): Interior, with his own Portrait (very fine); Portrait of Himself; 
a Woman selling Herrings.— Terburg (1): Young Girl in white 
satin drapery.—N. Maes (1): a Girl at Work (very fine).— Hobbema 
(3).—Metzu (3).—Philip Wouvermans (4).—Peter Wouvermans (1) 
—Unknown (1) :—Dobson (1) : Head of Cleveland, the poet.— Lely : 
Countess of Middlesex (elegant).— Richard Wilson, R.A. (2).— G. S. 
Newton, R.A. (1): Young Lady hiding her face in grief. — J. M. AV. 
Turner, R.A. (1) : Gale at Sea, (nearly as fine as the fine Vandervelde 
in this collection. Rising of the Gale).—F. Stone (1): Scene from 
Philip Van Artevelde.— Paul Delaroche (1) : Charles I. in the Guard- 
room insulted by the soldiers of the Parliament. 


III.—CHESTERFIELD HOUSE. 


19 


The house stands on the site of what was once Berkshire House, 
then Cleveland House, and afterwards Bridgewater House. 

Cards to view the Bridgewater Gallery can he obtained from 
Messrs. Smith, 137, New Bond-street. Days of admission, Mondays, 
Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, from 10 till 5—Catalogues may he 
had at Messrs. Smith’s, and at the Gallery. 

CHESTERFIELD HOUSE, South Audley-street, facing 
Hyde Park. The town-house of the Earl of Chesterfield, but 
let to the Marquis of Abercorn. It was built by Isaac 
Ware, the editor of Palladio, for Philip, fourth Earl of 
Chesterfield, author of the celebrated Letters to his Son, and 
stands on ground belonging to Curzon, Earl Howe. The 
boudoir was called by Lord Chesterfield the gayest and most 
cheerful room in England, and the library the best. 

" In the magnificent mansion which the earl erected in Audley-street, 
5 'ou may still see his favoiu’ite apartments furnished and decorated as 
he left them—among tne rest, what he boasted of as ‘ the finest room in 
London,’ and perhaps even now it remains unsurpassed, his spacious 
and beautiful library, looking on the finest private garden in London. 
The walls are covered half way up Avith rich and classical stores of 
literature; above the cases are in close series the portraits of eminent 
authors, French and English, Avith most of whom he had conversed; 
over these, and immediately under the massi're cornice, extend all round 
in foot-long capitals the Horatian lines:— 

NUNC . VETERUM . LIBRIS . NUNC . SOJINO. ET . TNERTIBUS . BORIS. 

nUCERE . SOLICITiE . JUCUNUA . OBLIVIA . VIT.E. 

On the mantel-pieces and cabinets stand busts of old orators, inter¬ 
spersed Avith voluptuous vases and bronzes, antique or Italian, and airy 
statuettes in marble or alabaster, of nude or seminude Opera nymphs 
“ We shall never recall that princely room Avithout fancying Chesterfield 
receiving in it a visit of his only child’s mother—AA'hile probably some 
neAv favourite Avas sheltered in the dim mysterious little boudoii 
Avithin—Avhich still remains also in its original blue damask and fretted 
gold-work, as described to Madame de Monconseil.”— Quarterly Iteview, 
No. 152, p. 484. 

Lord Chesterfield, in his Letters to his Son, speaks of the 
Canonical pillars of his house, meaning the columns brought 
from Canons, the seat of the Duke of Chandos. The grand 
staircase came from the same magnificent house. Obsei've .— 
Portrait of the poet Spenser; Sir Thomas Law’rence’s un¬ 
finished portrait of himself; and a lantern of copper-gilt for 
18 candles, bought by the Earl of Chesterfield at the sale at 
Houghton, the seat of Sir Robert Walpole. Stanhope-street, 
adjoining the house (also built by Lord Chesterfielcl), stands 
on ground belonging to the Dean and Chapter of Westminster, 
Lord Chesterfield died (1773) in this house, desiring by will 
that his remains might be buried in the next burying-place 
to the place where he should die, and that the expense of his 
funeral might not exceed 100?. He was accordingly interred 

c 2 


20 


III.—HOLLAND HOUSE. 


in Grosvenor Chapel, in South Audley-street, but his remains 
were afterwards removed to Shelford in Nottinghamshire. 

HOLLAND HOUSE, Kensington, two miles from Hyde- 
Park-corner (during the life of the late Lord Holland, the 
meeting-place for Whig politicians, for poets, painters, critics, 
and scholars), was built in 1607 (John Thorpe, architect) for 
Sir Walter Cope, whose daughter and co-heir married Henry 
Rich (second son of Robert, Earl of Warwick), created by 
King Janies I., Baron Kensington and Earl of Holland, and 
beheaded (1649) for services rendered to King Charles I. 
The widow of Robert Rich, Earl of Holland and Earl of 
Warwick, w'as married, in 1716, to Addison, the poet; and 
here, at Holland House, occurred that “ awful scene,” as 
Johnson has called it, with the Earl of Warwick, a young 
man of very ii-regular life and loose opinions. “ 1 have sent 
for you,” said Addison, “ that you may see how a Chiistian 
can die ! ” after w'hich he spoke with difficulty, and soon 
expired. On the death, in 1759, of Edward Rich, the last 
Earl of Holland and Warwick, the house descended by 
females to William Edw^ardes, created Baron Kensington, 
and by him was sold to Heniy Fox, first Baron Holland of 
that name, and father of Charles James Fox. Lord Holland 
died here, July 1st, 1774. During his last illness, George 
Selwyn called and left his card ; Selwyn had a fondness for 
seeing dead bodies, and the dying lord, fully comprehending 
his feeling, is said to have remarked, “ If Mr. Sehvyn calls 
again, show him up ; if I am alive I shall be delighted to see 
him, and if I am dead he wmuld like to see me.” The late 
Lord Holland called on Lord Lansdowne a little befoi-e his 
death, and show^ed him an epitaph, composed b}^ himself 
for himself. “ Here lies Henry Vassall Fox, Lord Holland, 
&c., who was drowned while sitting in his elbow-chair;” he 
died in this house in his elbow-chair of w’ater in the chest. 

“ It will be a great pity wlieu this ancient house must come down, and 
give way to rows and crescents. It is not that Holland House is line as 
a building—on the contraiy, it has a tumble-down look; and although 
decorated with the bastard-gothic of James I.’s time, the front is heav}'. 
But it resembles many respectable matrons, who, having been abso¬ 
lutely ugly dm-ing youth, acquire by age an air of dignity. But one is 
chiefly affected by the air of deep seclusion ivhich is spread around the 
domain .”—Sir Walter Scott. 

The stone gateway close to the house (on the east) was de¬ 
signed by Inigo Jones, and carved by Nicholas Stone, master- 
mason to James I. The raised terrace in front was made 
in 1847-48. William III. and his queen resided in Holland 
House while negotiating for the purchase of what is now Ken¬ 
sington Palace. 


III.—BATH HOUSE. 


21 


BATH HOUSE, Piccadilly, No. 82, corner of Bolton- 
street. The residence of Lord Ashburton, built by Alexander 
Baring, first Lord Ashburton (d. 1848), on the site of the 
old Bath House, the residence of the Pulteneys. Here is a 
noble collection of Works of Ai’t, selected with great good 
taste, and at a great expense. Pictures of the Dutch and 
Flemish Schools form the main part of the collection. 

Observe. — Thorwaldsex’s Mercury as the Slayer of Argus. " The 
transition from one action to another, as he ceases to play the flute 
and takes the sword, is expressed with incomparable animation.”— 
Waagen. — Leonardo da Vixci (?): the Infant Christ asleep in the 
arms of the Virgin; an Angel lifting the quilt from the bed.—Luixi: 
Virgin and Child.— Correggio (?): St. Peter, St. Margaret, St. Mary 
Magdalene, and Anthony of Padua.— Giorgione : a Girl, with a very 
beautiful profile, lays one hand on the shoulder of her lover. —Titian: 
the Daughter of llerodias with the head of St. John.— Paul Veronese: 
Clu-ist on the Mount of Olives (a cabinet picture).— Annibale Caracci: 
the Infant Christ asleep, and three Angels.— Domenichino : Moses 
before the Burning Bush.— Guercino : St. Sebastian mourned by two 
Angels (a cabinet picture).— Murillo : St. Thomas of Villa Nueva, as 
a child, distributes alms among four Beggar-boys; the Madonna sur¬ 
rounded by Angels; the Virgin and Child on clouds surrounded by 
three Angels; Christ looking up to Heaven. —Velasquez: a Stag 
Hunt.— Kubens : the Wolf Hunt—a celebrated picture painted in 1612. 
“ The fire of a fine dappled grey horse, which carries Kubens himself, is 
expressed with incomparable animation. Next him, on a brown horse, 
is his first wife, Caroline Brant, with a falcon on her hand.”— Waagen. 
Rape of the Sabines; reconciliation of the Romans and Sabines. 
“ Both these sketches are admirably composed, and in every respect 
excellent; few pictures of Rubens, even of his most finished works, give 
a higher idea of his genius.”— Sir Joshua liegnolds. — Vandyck: the 
Virgin Mary, with the Child upon her lap, and Joseph seated in a land¬ 
scape looking at the dance of eight Angels; Count Nassau in arm our 
(three-quarter size)’; one of the Children of Charles I. with flowers 
(bust); Charles I. (full-length); Henrietta Maria (full-length).— Rem¬ 
brandt : Portrait of Himself at an advanced age; Portrait of a middle- 
aged Man; Lieven Von Coppenol (the celebrated writing-mastei') with 
a sheet of paper in his hand (very fine); two Portraits (Man and Wife). 
—G. Dow : a Hermit praying before a crucifix. “ Of all Dow’s pictures 
of this kind, this is canded the furthest in laborious execution.”— 
Waagen. — Terburg : a Girl in a yellow jacket, with a lute.—G. Metzu: 
a Girl in a scarlet jacket. " In the soft bright manner of Metzu; 
sweetly true to nature, and in the most perfect harmony.”— Waagen .— 
Netscher : Boy leaning on the sill of a window, blowing bubbles. “ Of 
the best time of the master.”— Waagen. —A. Vanderwerff: St. Mar¬ 
garet treading on the vanquished Dragon.— Jan Steen: an Alehouse, 
a composition of thirteen figures, “A real jewel.”— Waagen. Playing 
at Skittles.— De Hooge : a Street in Utrecht, a Woman and Child 
walking in the sunshine (veiy fine).— Teniers: the Seven Works of 
Mercy : the picture so celebrated by the name of La Manchot; Portrait 
of Himself (whole-length, in a black Spanish costume); Court Yard 
of a Village Alehouse; a Landscape, with Cows and Sheep.—A. Ostade; 
(Several fine).—I. Ostade : Village Alehouse.— Paul Potter : Cows, 
&c,, marked with his name and the date 1652 ; Oxen butting each 
other in play; the Church Steeple of Haarlem at a distance.—A. Van- 
dervelde: the Hay Harvest; Three Cows, &c.— Berghem : “Here we 
see what the master could do.”— Waagen. —Karel du Jardin : a Water- 


22 


III.—MANCHESTER HOUSE. 


mill.— Philip Wouvekmans. — Cuyp.—Wynants.—Ruysdael.—Hob¬ 
bema. — Vandekvelde : “ la petite Flotte.”— Backhuysen. — Vander 
Heyden : Market-place of Henskirk, near Haarlem.— Vax Huysam : 
Flower Pieces.— Holbein • a Head.— Sir Joshua Reynolds : Head of 
Ariadne. 

HOLDERNESSE HOUSE, Park Lane, town residence 
of Earl Vane, is one of the most splendid as well as con¬ 
veniently planned mansions in London (S. and B. Wyatt, 
architects), and commands a charming view over Hyde Park. 
It is remarkable also for several fine works of art and vertu — 
some of them gifts of the Allied Sovereigns to the second 
Marquis of Londonderry—vases and tables of malachite. 
The grand gallery is very magnificent. 

Among the works of art are— Andrea del Sarto : a Holy Family, 
probably the finest work by the master in this country,from Count Fries’s 
gallery;—a fine Titian. — Lawrence : Portraits, whole length, of Lady 
Londonderry; of the Duke of Wellington in divil attire, 1814; of George 
IV., bis. —By Hoppner: Wm. Pitt, three-quarter size:—the original. 
—? Hercules and Antaeus. 

Statues.—By Canova : Theseus and the Minotaur, perhaps his most 
splendid work. - Ch antrey : Bust of the Minister, first Lord Londonderry. 
—Four Statuettes of Rosso Antico, of Victory—very fine:—gifts of Pope 
Pius IV. to the late Lord Londonderry.— Knight’s Waterloo and Penin¬ 
sular Heroes: Sevres Vase, six feet high—gift of Louis XVIII. 

HARCOURT HOUSE, Cavendish Square, west side, 
concealed by a high and dilapidated brick wall, the resi¬ 
dence of Bentinck, Duke of Portland, one of the richest 
of the English aristocracy. It was built by Lord Bingley, 
and originally called Bingley House. Within the enclosure 
of the square is a statue to the late Lord George Bentinck. 

HERTFORD HOUSE, Piccadilly, corner of Engine-street, 
built (1850-53) by Richard Seymour Conway, Marquis of 
Hertford—the fa 9 ade having formed part of the Pulteney 
Hotel, where the Emperor Alexander of Russia put up 
during the memorable visit of the Allied Sovereigns in 1814,^ 
and where the Duchess of Oldenburgh (the Emperor Alex¬ 
ander’s sister) introduced Prince Leopold to the Princess 
Charlotte. 

Mx4NCHESTER HOUSE, Manchester Square, Marquis 
of Hertford; is one of the most sumptuous Mansions, and 
contains one of the very finest collections of paintings 
in London, formed chiefly, 1845 to 1860, by the pi’esent 
owner, who has spared no cost; many are purchases from 
the best portions of the galleries of the King of Holland 
and Marshal Soult. Observe .—The Water-Mill, the chef- 
d'oeuvre of Hobbema ; la Vierge de Pade, the masterpiece of 
Andrea del Sarto; Portraits of Philippe and Madame le 


III.—SIR ROBERT PEEL’s—MRS. HOPE’s. 


23 


Roy, two noble specimens of Vandyck; Holy Family, by 
Ruhetis (2478?.); the Unmerciful Servant, by from 

Stowe, cost 2300?.; Nelly O’Brien, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, 
one of the finest portraits in the world ; Mrs. Braddyl; The 
Girl with a dog ; and Strawberry Girl, all by Reynolds ; 4 
Holy Families, Murillo; The Rainbow Landscape, y 

The Rape of Europa, Titian; —16 Canalettos; Views of 
Venice,— A. Ostade; The Fishmonger,— Metzu; The Sports¬ 
man (cost 3000?.). 

HOUSE OF SIR ROBERT PEEL, Privy Gardens, 
contains a very fine collection of Dutch, Flemish, and 
English pictures, formed by the late Sir Robert Peel, at 
great cost, and wdth extreme good taste. The collection 
ornaments the walls of rooms in the daily occupation of 
the family, and consequently cannot be very often shown 
to strangers. The Dutch and Flemish Pictures, some 72 
in number; 3 by Rembrandt ; 1 by Rubens, the well-known 
Chapeau de Paille, (3500 guineas), and the Triumph of Si- 
lenus, (1100?.); 2 by Van Dych, a Genoese Senator and his 
wife, bought at Genoa by Sir David "Wilkie ; 7 by D. Teniers ; 

2 by Isaac Ostade, one a Village Scene, veiy fine; 1 by 

Adrian Ostade; 1 by Jan Steen; 1 by Terhurg; 2 by 
G. Metzu ; 1 by F. Mieris ; 1 by W. Mieris ; 1 by O. Douw, 
the Poulterer’s Shop, fine; 3 by Cuyp, one an Old Castle, 
very fine; 4 by Hobbema, one very fine, the ducks and 
geese by Wyntrank, and the figures by Lingelback; 2 by 
De Hooghe; 1 by Paul Potter; 3 by Ruysdael; 2 by 

Backhuysen; 1 by Berghem; 1 by Gonzales Coques; 3 by 
Karel du Jardin ; 6 by Wouvermans ; 2 by Vander Heyden ; 

3 by J.. Vandervelde, one a Calm, veiy fine; 8 by W. Vander- 
velde; 1 by F. Snyders ; 2 by Wynants ; 1 by Slingelandt; 
1 by Jan. Lingelback; 1 by Moucheron and A. Vandervelde ; 
3 by Caspar Netscher. The late Sir Robert Peel died (1850) 
in the dining-room of this house—the room towards the river. 

HOUSE OF Mrs. HENRY THOMAS HOPE, in Piccadilly, 
at the corner of Down-street, built 1848-49, from the designs 
of M. Dusillon and Mr. Donaldson. The handsome iron rail¬ 
ing in front was cast at Paris, by Mous. J. P. V. Andre. The 
cost of the whole building is said to have been 30,000?. 
Mrs. Hope is the possessor of the celebrated collection of 
pictures (chiefly Dutch) formed at the Hague by the 
family of the Hopes — and described by Sir J oshua Reynolds. 
It is not shown to the public. 

Vandyck: The Assumption of the Virgin; a faint picture. Charity. 
— Rubens : The Shipwreck of yEneas; the clouds in Mr. Turner’s manner. 


24 


III.—MRS. hope’s—BARON ROTHSCHILD’s. 


“ Highly poetical in the design, and executed in a most mastei’ly manner 
in a deep full tone.”— Ifaaffen .— Claude: Landscape.—S. Rosa: Land¬ 
scape.— Domenichino : St. Sebastian.— Giorgione: Judith with the 
Head of Holofenies.— Rembrandt: Young Woman in an Arm-chair by 
which a Man is standing. “ One of the rare family portraits of this 
master in whole-length figures.”— Waaffen .— Backhuysen: Sea Piece 
with Ships. “ A large and capital picture.”— Sh'J.B .— Netscher : Lady 
at a Window with Parrot and Ape, marked 1664.— Jan Steen : An 
Oyster Feast, “ in which is introduced an excellent figure of Old Mieris, 
standing with his hands behind him .”—Sir J. B. —XiAIRESSE : Death of 
Cleopatra.— Van der Helst : Halt of Travellers. “ In Van der Heist’s 
middle and best period.”— Waaffen .— Rembrandt: Our Saviour in the 
Tempest. “ In this picture there is a great effect of light, but it is 
carried to a degree of affectation.”— Sir J. B. — Terburg : The Music 
Lesson ; the Trumpeter.—F. Mieris : A Gentleman with a Violin; a 
young Woman with her back turned is making out the reckoning, 
marked 1660. “This picture, painted when he was only twenty-six 
years of age, is one of his great master-pieces.”— Waaffen. — Metzu : 
Woman reading a Letter; Woman writing a Letter.— Schalken: Man 
reading by Candlelight. “ A carefully executed picture; the impasto 
particularly good.”— Waaffen. — Ruysdael : Landscape, Cattle and 
Figures. — Verkolje: David and Bathsheba. — A. Vandervelde: 
Cattle at a Watering-place; an evening scene; a wonderful picture: 
perhaps the finest Adrian Vandervelde in the world.—P. de Hooge; 
An interior, with Figures. “ Spoiled by cleaning.”— IFaaffen. —Weenix : 
A Dead Swan and Dead Hare. “ Perfect every way; beyond Hondc- 
koeter.”— Sir J. B. — Vanderwerf: The Incredulity of St. Thomas. 
D. Teniers: Soldiers playing at Backgammon.—G. Dow: “A Woman 
at a Window with a Hare in her Hand. Bright colouring and well 
drawn ” — D. Teniers : Soldiers Smoking.—P. Potter : Exterior of 
Stable—Cattle and Figures. —P. Wouvermans: Halt of Hawking Party 
(fine). — A. Ostade : Exterior of Cottage with Figures.— Hobbema : 
Wood Sceneiy.— Terburg: Trumpeter waiting (fine).— Wouvermans: 
Cavaliers and Ladies, Bagpiper, &c. “ The best I ever saw.”— Sir J. B. 
— Metzu : Lady in blue velvet tunic and white satin petticoat. — 
CuYP : Cattle and a Shepherd. “ The best I ever saw of him; and 
the figure likewise is better than usual; but the employment which 
he has given the shepherd in his solitude is not very poetical.”— 
Sir J. B. —P. Gyzens : Dead Swan and small Birds. “ Highly finished 
and Avell coloured.”— Sir J. B. 

Antiquities, Vases, &c. The antiques are, for the most pai’t, unfor¬ 
tunately much disfigured by indifferent restorations, and there is much 
that was originally of little value. The vases consist of the second 
collection made by Sir William Hamilton at Naples ; and among them 
are several choice specimens. 

Some of the pictures enumerated above have been removed, 
it is understood, to Deepdene, Mr. Hope’s beautiful seat near 
Dorking, in Surrey. 


HOUSE OF BARON" LIONEL ROTHSCHILD, Picca¬ 
dilly, contains a few fine pictures : good specimen of Cuyp, 
“ Skating ; ” a choice De Hooge, a good Greuze, Head of a 
Girl, and The Pinch of Snuff, an early work of Wilkie; with 
a noble collection of hanaps, cups, &c., of fourteenth and fif¬ 
teenth centui'y work; rare old china, fine carvings in ivory, &c. 


III.—DORCHESTER HOUSE—MUNRO COLLECTION. 25 


DORCHESTER HOUSE, Park Lane, Hyde Park, 
residence of R, S. Holford, Esq. {Lewis Vulliamy, architect). 
A building of good design, and showing in its interior the 
most refined taste and splendour. The staircase, of white 
marble, is one of the most stately in London. Besides the 
picture gallery, it contains a most choice and valuable 
Library. —Among the pictures very fine specimen of Hobbema; 
View of Dort from the River, by Cuyp, very fine; good ex¬ 
amples of Claude, Both, Isaac Ostade, &c.; Columbus by 
Wilkie. Mr. Holford’s countiy house is at SVestonbirt, Tet- 
bury, Gloucestershire. 

MUNRO COLLECTION, Hamilton Place, Piccadilly, 
last house on right-hand side. Hon. H. Butler Johnstone. 

Observe. —The Lucca Madonna and Child, by Raphael; St. Francis 
Praying, a small pictui’e by Filippo Lippi; Landscape by Caspar 
Foussin, fine; Les Deux Petites Mai'quises, half-lengths, size of life, 
by Watteau, very fine; characteristic specimens of Jan Steen, one 
“ After a Repast,” very clever; also, good, if not choice, specimens of 
Cuyp, Vandervelde, Backhuysen, &c. Mrs. Stanhope, half-length, in 
white, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, very fine ; 5 fine Landscapes, by Richard 
Wilson; large View in Venice, the masterpiece of Bonington; The 
Fishmarket, by Bonington; The Good Samaritan, by Etty, a choice 
specimen: 2 fine Italian Landscapes, by Turner, in the best time of his 
second period, and many other pictures and drawings by that master. 


Othei' Private Collections of Paintings and Works of Art. 


Bale, C. Sackville, Esq., 71, 
Cambridge Terrace. 

Baring, Thos., Esq., Upper 
Grosvenor Street — fine 
old masters of various 
schools: Raphael, Madon¬ 
na— Mantegna .— Cuyp, A 
river-scene with boats. 

Barker, Alexander, Piccadilly 
—Italian Pictures: Holy 
Family, And. Verocchio 
(the most important of 
his works)— Lor. da Credi, 
&c. 

Bromley, Rev. Davenport, 
32, Grosvenor Street. 

Caledon, Lord, 6, Carlton 
House Terrace. 


Cowper, Lady, St. James’s- 
square — 4 or 5 whole- 
length portraits by Van 
Dyck, &c. 

Ellis, VVynn, Esq., 30, Cado- 
gan Place. 

Morrison, Chas., 67, Upper 
Harley Street. 

Overstone, Lord, 2, Carlton 
Gardens, Dutch paintings, 
part of the Baron Ver- 
stolk’s collection. 

Robarts, Mrs., 26, Hill Street, 
Berkeley Square. 

Ward, Lord, Dudley House, 
Park Lane. 

Yarborough, Lord, Arling¬ 
ton Street. 




26 


IV.—HYDE PARK. 


IV.-PARKS AND PUBLIC GARDENS. 

HYDE PARK. A park of 388 acres, deservedly looked 
upon as one of the lungs of London, extending to Kensington 
Gardens, and thus carrying a continuous tract of open ground, 
or park, from Whitehall, to Kensington. The whole Park is 
intersected with well-kept footpaths, and the carriage drives 
are spacious, and, at certain hours, much frequented. The 
Park is accessible for private carriages, but hackney-coaches 
and cabs are excluded. The triple archway at Hyde-Park- 
corner, combined with an iron screen, was erected in 1828 
from the designs of Decimus Burton. It cost 17,069Z. Is. 9\d., 
including lOOOZ. to Mr. Henning for the bas-reliefs from the 
Elgin marbles which surround it. The Park derives its name 
from the Hyde, an ancient manor of that name adjoining 
Knightsbridge, and, until the dissolution of religious houses 
in the reign of Henry VHI., the property of the abbots and 
monks of Westminster. It then became the property of the 
Crown. For much of its present beauty it is indebted to 
William III., and Caroline, consort of George II. 

In this Park, in the London season, from May to August 
(between 11 and 1, and 5^ and 7, may be seen all the 
wealth and fashion and splendid equipages of the nobility 
and gentry of Great Britain. As many as 800 equestrians, 
including the Knot at the music, have been seen assembled 
at Hyde-Park in the height of the season. The bridle-road, 
running east and west (from Apsley House to Kensington Gar¬ 
dens) is called Rotten Row^ a cormption,it is supposed, of Route 
du Roi —King’s Drive. The first set of horsemen are valetudi¬ 
narians, along with leading counsel, hard-worked barristers, 
and solicitors of eminence, some bankers, city merchants, 
taking their “ constitutional” before breakfiist. From 12 to 
2 the ride is sprinkled with the wives and daughters of our 
aristocracy, taking exercise with papas, brothers, or grooms ; 
increased by a few officers and M.P.’s seeking fresh air after 
a night spent in the House of Commons. The sheet of 
water called the Serpentine was formed by Caroline, Queen 
of George 11. The carriage-drive along the upper side is 
called “The Lady’s Mile.” The boats may be hired by the 
hour. Certain traces of the Ring, formed in the reign of Charles 
I. and long celebrated, may be I’ecognised by the large trees 
somewhat circularly arranged in the centre of the Park. 
Beyond the Humane Society’s Receiving-house (on the north 
bank of the Serpentine) and close to the bridge is the 


IV.—HYDE PARK—ALBERT MEMORIAL. 


27 


goveniment store of gunpowder, including upwards of one 
million rounds of ball and blank ammunition kept ready 
for immediate use of the Garrison of London. A review 
of troops in Hyde Park is a sight worth seeing; they usually 
take place in June or July. Reviews or parades of Vohmteers 
are more frequent. Obsore.—Statue of Achilles, “inscribed 
by the women of England, to Ai-thur, Duke of Wellington, 
and his brave companions in arms,” erected in Hyde Park, 
18th of June, 1822, by command of his Majesty George IV. 
The statue was cast by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A., from cannon 
taken in the victories of Salamanca, Vittoria, Toulouse, and 
Waterloo, and the cost was defrayed by a subscription of 
10,000^., raised among the ladies. The figure is copied from 
one of the famous antiques on the Monte Cavallo, at Rome : 
so that the name Achilles is a misnomer. The Marble Arch, 
facing Great Cumberland-street (near where the Tyburn tree 
formerly stood) was moved from Buckingham Palace in 1850 
and erected here in 1851. The original cost was 80,000^,, and 
the cost of removal 11,000^. The equestrian statue of George 
IV., now in Trafalgar-square, was intended for the top of this 
arch. The sculpture on the S. front of arch by Baily; H. by 
Sir R. Westmacott. 

The Crystal Palace, or Great Exhibition Building of 1851 
(now re-erected and enlarged at Sydenham, in Kent), stood 
on the S. side of the Park, opposite Prince’s Gate. During 
the 24 weeks the Exhibition was open, it was visited by up¬ 
wards of 6,000,000 persons, or about 250,000 weekly. The 
receipts exceeded 400,000?. 

Near the site of the first Crystal Palace, opposite the site 
of the second and the Horticultural Gardens, rises the Albert 
Memorial: a Gothic Canopy, designed by G. Q. Scott, rising 
in a spire 160 feet high, supported by four groups of granite 
columns, and serving as a shx’ine to enclose a statue of his 
Royal Highness sitting, by Marochetti. It is approached by 
flights of steps, occupying a square of 130 feet each way, of 
grey Irish granite. The shafts of the four clustered columns 
are of red granite from the isle of Mull. The mosaics are 
by Salviati. The marble is Sicilian. The building will cost 
120,000?., raised by subscriptions of the public, including 
her Majesty’s bounteous contributions, and a grant of 
50,000?. made by Paidiament. At the lower angle of the 
pyramid of steps are groups of marble statues—Europe by 
McDowell, Asia by Foley, Africa by Theed, and America by 
John Bell. Above these are marble groups—Agi’iculture 
by Colder Marshall, Manufactures by Weehs, Commerce by 
Thornycroft, Engineering by Lawlor. 


28 


ly.—HYDE PARK. 




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IV.—ST. James’s park. 


i9 

ST. JAMES’S PARK. A park of 91 acres (sliaped not 
imlike a boy’s kite), originally appertaining to the Palace of 
St. James’s; first formed and walled in by Henry VIIT.; re¬ 
planted and beautified by Charles II.; and finally arranged by 
George IV., much as we now see it, in 1827-28-29. What 
I shall call the head of the kite is bordered by three of the 
principal public offices: the Horse Guards in the centre, the 
Admiralty on its right, and the Treasury on its left. The 
tail of the kite is occupied by Buckingham Palace ; its north 
side by the Green Park, Stafford House, St. James’s Palace, 
Marlborough House, Carlton-House-teri'ace, and Carlton 
Ride; and its right or south side by Queen-square, and 
the Wellington Barracks for part of the Household Troops, 
erected in 1834-59. The gravelled space in front of the Horse 
Guards is called the Parade, and formed a part of the Tilt 
Yard of Whitehall: the north side is called the Mall, and the 
south the Birdcage-walk. Milton lived in a house in Petty 
France, with a garden reaching into the Birdcage-walk; Nell 
Gwyn in Pall Mall, with a garden with a mound and ter¬ 
race at the end, overlooking the Mall; and Lord Chancellor 
Jefferies, in the large brick house north of Storey’s Gate, with 
a flight of stone steps into the Park. St. James’s Park, with 
its broad gravel walks and winding sheet of water, was, 
till the time of Charles II., little more than a grass park, 
with a few trees irregularly planted, and a number of little 
ponds. Charles II. threw the several ponds (Rosamond’s 
Pond excepted) into one artificial canal, built a decoy for 
ducks, a small ringfence for deer, planted trees in even 
ranks, and introduced broad gravel walks in place of narrow 
and winding footpaths. Charles I., attended by Bishop 
Juxon and a regiment of foot (part before and part behind 
him), walked, Jan. 30th, 1648-49, through this Park from St, 
James’s Palace to the scaffold at Whitehall. He is said on 
his way to have pointed out a tree near Spring Gardens, as 
planted by his brother Prince Henry. Here Cromwell took 
AVhitelocke aside and sounded the Memorialist on the subject 
of a King Oliver. Some of the trees in this Park, planted 
and watered by King Charles II. himself, were acorns from 
the royal oak at Boscobel; none, however, are now to be 
seen. St. Evremont, a French Epicurean wit, was keeper of 
the ducks in St. James’^ Park in the reign of Charles II. 

The gardens forming the inner enclosure, laid out by 
Na.sh the architect (temp. George IV.), yield in pictu¬ 
resqueness to those of no capital in Europe, Tjie walks 
across them are enlivened by glimpses of numerous fine build¬ 
ings around. In 1857 a chain bridge, for foot passengers 


30 


IV.—ST. James’s park and its vicinity, 





































IV.—GREEN PARK. 


31 


was thrown across the water, between Queen-square and 
St. James’s-street, and the lake bed was cleared out and 
raised, so that the greatest depth of water does not exceed 
4 ft. Hence, the annual sacrifice of life, from a portion of 
the crowd who throng the ice in winter, falling in, need no 
more occur. 

Observe. —On the Parade near the Horse Guards, the mortar 
cast at Seville, by order of Napoleon, employed by Soult at 
Cadiz, and left behind in the retreat of the French army after 
the battle of Salamanca. It was presented to the Prince 
Regent by the Spanish government, and mounted on a 
bronze dragon. The heaviest shell it carried weighed about 
1081b., and its extreme range was 6220 yards. A shell from 
this piece of ordnance has been seen to range into Cadiz, 
■when the w^hole of that splendid square, the Plaza de San 
Antonio, was crowded, and fall accurately in the centre of 
the square without injuring a single individual. On the 
opposite side of the Parade is a Turkish gun taken from the 
French in Egypt. The Park was lighted with gas in 1822. 
The road connecting St. James’s Park with Hyde Park, and 
skirting the garden wall of Buckingham Palace, now called 
Constitution Hill, was long known as ‘‘ The King’s Coach-way 
to Kensington.” Near the upper end of this road Sir Robei't 
Peel •vs'as thrown (1850) from his horse and killed. In this 
road Queen Victoria has been fired at by three idiots on three 
several occasions. 

GREEN PARK. An open area of 60 acres between 
Piccadilly and St. James’s Park, Constitution-hill, and the 
houses of Arlington-street and St. James’s-place. It was occa¬ 
sionally called Upper St. James’s Park. Observe. — On the 
E. side of the Park, Stafford House, the residence of the 
Duke of Sutherland; Bndgeioater House, the residence of 
the Earl of Ellesmere; Spencer House, the residence of Earl 
Spencer; the brick house with five windows, built in 1747, 
by Flitcroft, for the celebrated Lady Hervey; 22, St. James’s- 
place (next a narrow opening), distinguished by bow windows, 
residence of the late Poet Rogers ; Earl of Yarborough's, in 
Arlington-street, built by Kent, for Henry Pelham. The 
small gardens attached to the houses beloug to the Crown, 
but are let on lease to the owners of the houses. In this park, 
fronting the houses in Arlington-street, was fought the duel 
with swords, betw^een Mr. Pulteney, afterwards Earl of 
Bath, and John, Lord Hervey, the Fanny of the poet Pope. 

REGENT’S PARK, a park of 472 acres, part of old Mary- 


32 


TV.—regent’s park. 


lebone Park, for a long time disparked, and familiarly known 
as Maiylebone Farm and Fields. On the expiration of a 
Crown lease held by the Duke of Portland, the present 
Park was laid out in 1812, from the plans of Mr. John 
Nash, Architect, who also planned the terraces except York 
and Corn wall-terraces, designed by Decimus Burton. The 
Park derives its name from the Prince Regent, afterwards 
George IV., who intended building a residence here on the 
N.E, side. Part of Regent-street was actually designed as a 
communication from it to Carlton House. The Crown Pro¬ 
perty comprises, besides the Pai’k, the upper part of Portlaud- 
place, from No. 8,—the Park-crescent and square, Albany, 
Osnaburgh, and the adjoining cross streets, York and Cum- 
berland-squares. Regen t’s-Park-basin, and Augustus-street, 
Park-villages E. and W., and the outer road. The domed 
building on the S.E. side is the Colisseum, once a Diorama. 
The Zoological Gardens occupy a large portion of the upper 
end of the Park {see Index). The Holme, a villa in the 
centre of the Park, was erected by Mr. William Burton, 
architect, who covered with houses the Foundling Hospital 
and Skinner estates. &outh Villa, the residence of Geo. 
Bishop, Esq., includes an Observatory, well known from Mr. 
Hind’s discoveries of stars and comets made there. Through 
the midst of the Park, on a line with Portland-place, and 
along the E. side of the Zoological Gardens, runs a fine 
bi’oad avenue lined with rows of trees, from which footpaths 
ramify across the swai’d in all directions, interspersed with 
ornamental plantations and flower beds. Around the Park 
runs an agreeable drive nearly two miles long. An inner 
drive, in the form of a circle, encloses the Botanic Gardens. 
Contiguous to this Inner Circle is St John's Lodge, seat of Sir 
Francis Goldsmid, overlooking a beautiful sheet of water, 
close to which is the garden of the Toxophilite Society. St. 
Dunstan's Villa, on the south-west side of the Park, was 
erected by Decimus Burton, for the late Marquis of Hertford 
(d. 1842). In its gardens are placed the identical clock and 
automaton strikers which once adorned St. Dunstan’s Chui’ch 
in Fleet-street. "When old St. Dunstan’s was pulled down 
the giants were put up to auction, and the marquis became 
their purchaser. They still do duty in striking the hours 
and quarters. 

In the chapel of St. Katherine's Hospital, on the E. side 
of the Park, is the tomb of John Holland, Duke of Exeter 
(d. 1447), and his two wives; and a imlpit of wood, the gift 
of Sir Julius Csesar; both removed, in 1827, from St. 
Katherine’s at the Tower. 


IV.—regent’s park, 


33 




S. Katherine’s 
Hospital. 



To Great 
Western Bail way. 


To City. 







































34 IV.—VICTORIA PARK.—GREENWICH PARK. 

Separated from Regent’s Pai'k by two roads and the canal 
rises Primrose Hill, which has been planted and laid out 
with walks, so as to convert it into a public garden. Its 
summit commands a very extensive view. 

VICTORIA PARK, Bethnal Green, a park of 265 acres, 
planted and laid out in the reign of Victoria. The first 
cost of formation was covered by the purchase-money re¬ 
ceived from the Duke of Sutherland for the Crown lease of 
York House, St. James’s, sold in 1841 for 72,000Z. It is 
judiciously planted, and contains a picturesque sheet of 
water, with row boats. In the midst rises a very handsome 
drinking fountain, a gothic structure of granite 60 feet high, 
erected at a cost of 6000Z. by Miss Burdett Coutts. This 
Park serves as a lung for the N. E. part of London, and has 
already added to the health of the 560,000 inhabitants of 
Spitalfields and Bethnal-green. 

The French Hospice {see Index), rising on the outskirts, is a 
picturesque object. 

BATTERSEA PARK. A pleasure ground of 185 acres, 
almost all below the level of high tide, on the right bank of the 
Thames opposite Chelsea Hospital, converted between 1852- 
58 from marshy fields, on one of which occurred the duel 
between the Duke of Wellington and Lord Winchelsea, into 
a public park at a cost of 312,890^., of which 246,517^. was 
paid for the ground. Laid out with ornamental plantations, 
and rich fiower-beds varied by a fine sheet of watei’, and 
intersected by I’oads and walks, it presents great attractions. 

The Sub-Tropical Garden, of 4 acres, filled with half-hardy 
plants, is a triumph of modern horticulture. It is admirably 
kept, its well disposed parterres renewed with fresh fiowers 
at each recurring season of the year, and as the plantations 
grow up is yearly increasing in beauty. It is approached 
from Pimlico by an iron suspension bridge over the Thames, 
of fanciful design, executed by Mr. Page, which cost 85,319^. 
and was completed 1858. 

111,4392. has been laid out on the Chelsea embankment, 
bordei’ing the left bank of the Thames from Pimlico to 
Vauxhall bridge. 

The HORTICULTURAL GARDENS, South Kensington, 
are described in section xxii. 

GREENWICH PARK (5 miles from Charing Cross), of 
174 acres, extending from the high ground of Blackheath down 
to Greenwich Hospital, agreeably diversified with hill and 
dale, and from “One Tree Hill” and another eminence on 


IV.—RICHMOND PARK.—KENSINGTON GARDENS. 35 


which the Royal Observatory is erected, commanding a noble 
view of London and the river Thames. The Observatory 
was established in the reign of Charles II. : Flamstead, 
Halley, and Bradley, were the first three Astronomers 
Royal. The older portion of the building was erected 
from the designs of Wren. The lower portion of the tower 
is the residence of Mr. Airy, the present Astronomer Royal. 
“Greenwich Time,” known all over the world, is marked every 
day at 1 o’clock, by the dropping of a black ball about six 
feet in diameter, surmounting the easternmost turret of the 
old building, and acting in instantaneous communication with 
the offices in Loudon to the Electidc Telegraph. Strangers 
are not admitted to the Observatory, the Astronomical, 
Magnetical, and Meteorological observations conducted in 
the rooms requiring silence. The salary of the Astrono¬ 
mer Royal is 800i!. a year, and the whole Observatory 
is maintained at about 4000^. a year. A trip down the river 
to Greenwich, a visit to Greenwich Hospital, a stroll in Gi’een- 
wich Park, and a dinner afterw'ards of fish, not forgetting 
white bait, the special production of the Thames between 
this and Blackwall, at the Ship or Trafalgar Hotel, will be 
found a delightful way of passing an afternoon. This 
beautiful park—the Park of the Royal manor of Greenwich 
—was planted, much as we now see it, in the reign of 
Charles II. Le Notre, it is said, was the artist employed ; 
but his name does not occur in the accounts. Greenwich 
may be reached by Rail from Charing Cross or London 
Bridges by Bus or Steamer. 

RICHMOND PARK, 9 miles from London, and 1 from 
the Richmond Station of the Loudon and South Western 
Railway:—the Park of the Royal manor of Richmond owes 
much of its present beauty to King Charles I. and King 
George 11. The principal entrance is close to the Star and 
Garter Hotel. Enter by this gate, keep to the right for about 
a mile along the terrace and past Pembroke Lodge, the 
residence of Earl Russell. The view begins a few yards 
within the gate, is stopped by the enclosure of Pembroke 
Lodge, but soon reappears. The view overlooking the 
Thames is not to be surpassed. An afternoon at Richmond 
and Twickenham, and a dinner afterwards at the huge hotel, 
the Star and Garter (rebuilt 1866 at a cost of 190,000/.), will 
make a capital pendant to a like entertainment at Greenwich. 

KENSINGTON GARDENS. Pleasure-grounds attached 
to Kensington Palace (see Index), and open to the public, but 
not to be traversed by carriages. The stranger in London 


36 


IV.—BOTANICAL GARDENS. 


should, during the Loudon season, make a point of visiting 
these Gardens when the band plays. The Gardens are then 
filled with gaily-dressed promenaders, and the German will 
be reminded of the scene in the Prater. Every informa¬ 
tion about the period when a military band plays may be 
obtained of any of the lodge-keepers at Hyde Park or Ken¬ 
sington Gardens. Kensington Gardens were laid out in the 
reign of William III., by London and Wise, and originally 
consisted of only 26 acres; Queen Anne added 30 under 
Bridgeman’s superintendence, and Caroline (Queen of George 
II.) 300 under the care of Kent. The Serpentine was 
formed 1730-33; and the bridge over it, separating the 
Gai’dens from Hyde Park, was designed by Rennie, and 
erected 1826. The beautiful wrought-iron gates facing 
Rotten Row, were the entrance gates to the S. transept of the 
Crystal Palace of 1851, and cast at Colebrook Dale. 

KEW BOTANICAL GARDENS, 5 miles from Hyde Park 
Corner, on the road to Richmond. Open daily after 1 p.m., 
Sundays 2 p.m. The Gardens containing in the open air or 
under glass the plants, flowers, and vegetable curiosities of 
all countries, were laid out under the direction of the late Sir 
W. J. Hooker, the Botanist, and are now under the manage¬ 
ment of his accomplished son. Dr. Jos. Hooker.) The best 
way of reaching Kew is by railway trains from Waterloo, S.W. 
loop line, or by one of the Richmond or Kew Bridge omni¬ 
buses that leave Piccadilly every | hour—fare Is.; Sir W. 
Hooker’s own little Handbook may be purchased at the 
Gai'dens, pi’ice 6d. The entrance is on Kew Green, by very 
handsome gates, designed by Decimus Burton. Visitors are 
obliged to leave baskets and parcels with the porter at the gate. 

The gardens are 75 acres in extent. They are beautifully 
laid out with fine and rare trees, flower-beds, a pinetum, &c.; 
25 or more hothouses are filled with the rarest exotics. 
The Palm House is 362 ft. long, 100 ft. wide, 64 ft. high, 
and cost nearly 30,000^. Some of the Palms have already 
reached the highest span of the roof. Among the hothouses 
—those devoted to Cactuses are unrivalled for the rarity 
and variety of their contents. Here, too, the Victoria Regia 
may be seen. 

The Winter Garden, or Great Conservatory, is 583 feet 
long, covers If acre, and is twice the size of the Palm House. 
It forms an era in Horticulture ; near it a lake of 5 acres is 
foi’med. Improvements are made every year, and the 
Gardens are receiving yearly extensions. The Pinetum has 
been augmented, Cjiiinc^'na plants have been reared in large 


V.—HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 


37 


quantities for India, to furnish quinine, which has hithei'to 
been brought from Peru and cost the East India Govern¬ 
ment 40,000^. a year ! The visitors to the Gardens in 1860 
amounted to 425,314, chiefly for recreation and fresh air, 
but many botanical students take lodgings in Kew to pro¬ 
secute their studies. 0--' 

The Mimum of Economic Botany, formed by Sir W. 
Hooker, is filled with vegetable products, useful in the arts 
and manufactures, most instructive and interesting. The 
Herbaria or dried plants from all quarters of the world, are 
more extensive than any yet brought together; they include 
those of the old East India Company. The Arboretum and 
Pleasure Grounds are beautifully kept, and most creditable 
to the present Director. In short, London and its neigh¬ 
bourhood affords no more pleasing sight. The Gardens are 
open daily. {See Introductory Information, p. 52*.) The 
salary of the Director is 800^. a year. 


V.-HOUSES OF PARLIAIVENT. 

THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, or The New Palace 
AT Westminster, on the left bank of the Thames, between 
the river and Westminster Abbey. Admission on Saturdays, 
by tickets obtained on the spot. {See below.) This is one 
of the most magnificent buildings ever ei’ected continuously 
in Europe—probably the largest Gothic edifice in the world. 
It occupies the site of the old Royal Palace at Westminster, 
burnt down Oct. 16th, 1834, and covers an area of nearly 8 
acres. It has 100 staircases, 1100 apartments, and more 
than 2 miles of corridors ! The building is warmed through 
16 miles of steam pipes, and the gas for one year costs 
3505Z. The cost has exceeded two millions sterling. 
The architect was Sir Charles Barry, and the first stone 
was laid April 27th, 1840. In its style and character the 
building reminds us of those grand civic palaces, the town- 
halls of the Low Countries,—at Ypres, Ghent, Louvain, 
and Brussels—and a similarity in its destination renders 
the adoption of that style more appropriate than any form 
of classic architecture. The stone employed for the external 
masonry is a magnesian limestone from Anston in York¬ 
shire, selected with great care from all the building stones 
of England by commissioners appointed in 1839 for that 
purpose. The River Terrace is of Aberdeen granite. 
There is very little wood about the buildirrg; all the main 



38 


V.—HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 


beams and joists aro of iron. The River Front, may be 
considered the principal. This magnificent fagade, 900 
feet in length, is divided into five principal compartments, 
panelled with tracery, and decorated with rows of statues 
and shields of arms of the Kings and Queens of England, 
from the Conquest to the present time. The Land Front, 
including a new fa9ade to enclose the Law Courts, is not yet 
commenced. 

The Royal or Victoria Tower, at the S.-W. angle, one of the 
most stupendous works of the kind in the world, contains 
the Royal Entrance, is 75 feet square, and rises to the 
height of 340 feet, or 64 feet less than the height of the cross 
of St. Paul’s. The entrance archw^ay is 65 feet in height, 
and the roof is a rich and beautifully worked groined 
stone vault, while the interior is decorated with the statues 
of the patron saints of England, Scotland, and Ireland, and 
with a statue of her present Majesty, supported on either side 
by figures emblematical of Justice and Mercy. This stately 
tower (supplying what Wren considered Westminster was 
so much in need of) was finished by slow degrees in 1857, 
the architect deeming it of importance that the works should 
not proceed, for fear of settlements, at a greater rate than 
30 feet a-year. The Central Spire, 60 feet in diameter, and 
300 feet high, rises above the Grand Centi’al Octagonal 
Hall. Its exquisitely groined stone vault is supported with¬ 
out a pillar. The ClocTc Tower (the “ Beflfroi ” of London) 
abutting on Westminster Bridge, 40 feet square, and sur¬ 
mounted above the clock with a decorated roof, rises to 
the height of about 320 feet. Various other subordinate 
towers, by their picturesque forms and positions, add mate¬ 
rially to the effect of the whole building. 

The Palace Clock in the ClocTc Tower, constructed under 
the direction and approval of Mr. Airy, the Astronomer 
Royal, is an eight-day clock, striking the hours and chiming 
the quarters upon eight bells, and showing the time upon 
four dials about 30 feet in diameter. The diameter of the 
dial at St. Paul’s is only 18 feet. The Great Bell (Stephen) 
was cast 1858 ; it weighs more than 8 tons, but has been 
cracked like its predecessor. Big Ben. 

The Westminster Bridge end of the Palace contains the 
apartments of the Speaker and the Serjeant-at-arms, and the 
Vauxhall Bridge end the apartments of the Usher of the 
Black Rod and the Lords’ librarian. Above these a long 
range of rooms has been appropriated to Committees of 
either House. The statues in and about the building exceed 
in number 450, and are by the late John Thomas. 


V.—HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 


39 


Tlie Cloister Court, surrounded by a richly groined and 
traceried cloister of 2 stories, of which the upper story is a 
creation of Sir Charles Barry, is one of the finest features in 
the building. It is for the most part a restoration, is 49 
feet 6 inches from E. to W., and 63 feet from N. to S. It 
is open to members of the house, but not to the public. 

The principal public Entrances through Westminster 
Hall, and Old Palace Yard, :—both lead into the Central 
Octagon Hall, whence the right hand passage will take you 
to the Loi’ds, and the left to the Commons. Westminster 
Hall, and the crypt of St. Stephen's Chapel have been 
skilfully incorporated into the new building. Westminster 
Hall, the largest room in the world unsupported by pillars, 
has been somewhat altered in detail internally, to make it 
accord with the rest of the building. The architect planned 
that the walls, below the windows, should be decorated with 
a series of historical paintings, and that there should be two 
tiers of pedestals, to be occupied by figures of those eminent 
Englishmen to whom Parliament may decree the honour of a 
statue. The conception is grand, and appropriate to the 
building in which so many Englishmen have been distin¬ 
guished. (For Westminster Hall, see Section xvi.) A small 
staircase descends from the E. corner of the hall into the 
crypt of Si. Stephen's beneath the modern St. Stephen’s 
Hall, and is the only fragment remaining of the ancient 
Palace of Westminster which escaped the fire. This in- 
tei’esting example of English architecture of the 13th centmy 
has undergone a careful restoration. The walls and roof 
are decorated with paintings, the windows with coloured 
glass. It is fitted up as a chapel, &c. 

The Royal Entrance is under the Victoria Tower, and leads 
to the Nm'man Pwch, so called from the frescoes illustrative 
of the Norman history of this country and the figures of the 
Norman Kings, with which it is to be decorated. 

On the right hand is the Robing Room, facing the river, 
decorated with frescoes by Dyce, R.A., of the Legend of 
King Arthur. After the ceremony of robing, which takes 
place in this room, her Majesty passes through a magni¬ 
ficent chamber 110 feet in length, 45 in width, and 45 feet 
high, called the Victoria Gallery, decorated with frescoes of 
eventsfrom the history of England, with stained glass windows 
and a ceiling rich in gilding and heraldry. On one side is the 
meeting of Wellington and Blucher after the Battle of Water¬ 
loo at la Belle Alliance (at which place they did not meet). The 
death of Nelson occupies the opposite wall,—both are by 
Maclise, R.A., and executed in the water-glass fresco process. 


40 


V.—HOUSES OP PARLIAMENT. 


Passing thence, her Majesty enters the Pi'ince^s Chamber, 
lined with wood carvings and portraits of the Tudor and 
Stuart sovereigns, and containing a marble group by Gibson,^ 
of the Queen supported by Justice and Mercy. In the Peers’ 
Robing Room is the fresco of Moses bringing down the 
Law, by Mr. Herbert, the result of six and a half years’ hard 
labour. 

The House of Peers, 97 feet long, 45 wide, and 45 high, a 
noble room, first opened April 15th, 1847, presenting a coup 
d'oeil of the utmost magnificence, no expense having been 
spared to make it one of the richest chambers in the woi’ld. 
The spectator is hardly aware, however, of the lavish rich¬ 
ness of its fittings from the masterly way in which all are 
harmoniously blended, each detail, however beautiful and 
intricate in itself, bearing only its due part in the general 
effect. Observe. —The Throne, on which her Majesty sits 
when she attends the House, with the chair for the Prince 
of Wales; the Woolsack, in the centre of the House, on which 
the Lord Chancellor sits; the Reporters’ Gallery (facing the 
Throne); the Strangers’ Gallery (immediately above); the 
Frescoes (the first, on a large scale, executed in this countiy), 
in the six compartments, three at either end, viz.. The Bap¬ 
tism of Ethelbert, by Dyce, R.A. (over the Throne); Edward 
III. conferring the Order of the Garter on the Black Prince, 
and Henry, Prince of Wales, committed to prison for assault¬ 
ing Judge Gascoigne, both by Cope, R.A.; the Spirit of 
Religion, by Horsley, A.R.A., in the centre compartment, 
over the Strangers’ Gallery ; and the Spirit of Chivalry, and 
the Spirit of Law, by Maclise, R.A. The 12 figure windows 
are filled with stained glass, and are lighted at night from 
the outside. Between the windows, and at either end of 
the house, are 18 niches, for statues of the Magna Charta 
barons, carved by Thomas. Immediately beneath the windows 
nins a light and elegant gallery of brass work, filled in 
compartments with coloured mastic, in imitation of enamel. 
On the cornice beneath the gallery are the arms of the Sove¬ 
reigns and Chancellors of England, from Edward III. to the 
present time. 

A Lord Chamberlain’s order or Peeress' ticket for a lady 
to the Galleries or Area of the House of Lords, when her 
Majesty opens, prorogues, or dissolves Parliament, is highly 
prized. The opening of Parliament is genemlly in February, 
the prorogation generally in July. On these occasions 
the gallery, which directly fronts the throne, is set apart 
for ladies . Failing to obtain this, a seat in the “Royal 
Gallery,” the splendid hall through which the procession 


V.—HOUSES OP PARLIAMENT. 


41 


twice passes, affords an admirable view of the Queen and ber 
great officers. Gentlemen as well as ladies are admitted 
here, but sit in separate places. It is not etiquette to ex¬ 
amine the Sovereign through a lorgnette. To obtain a good 
seat, you should be in the House of Lords by half-past 12, for 
the carriages of sti’angers are not suffered to pass the barriers 
later than one, and it is a crowded and dirty struggle to get 
to the House after that hour. The arrival of her Majesty is 
announced within the House by the booming of the cannon. 
Her entrance is preceded by the Heralds in their rich dresses, 
and by some of the chief officers of state in their robes. All 
the peers are in their robes. The Speech is presented to her 
Majesty by the Lord Chancellor kneeling, and is read by 
her Majesty; the Mistress of the Robes and one of the ladies 
of the bedchamber standing by her side on the dais. The 
return to Buckingham Palace is by 3 at the latest. The 
address to her Majesty in both houses is moved at 5 the same 
evening; and the debate, therefore, is always looked to with 
great interest. The old custom of examining the cellars 
underneath the House of Lords, about two hours before her 
Majesty’s arrival, still continues to be observed. The custom 
had its origin in the infamous Gunpowder plot of 1605. • 

The House of Commons, 62 feet long by 45 feet broad, and 45 
feet high, is more simple in character than the House of 
Peers :—the ceiling is, however, of nearly equal beauty. The 
windows are filled with stained glass, of a simple character; 
the walls ai*e lined with oak richly carved, and, supported 
on carved shafts and brackets, is a gallery extending along 
them, on either side. At the N. end is the chair for the 
Speaker, over which is a gallery for visitors, and for the 
reporters of the debates; while the S. end is occupied by 
deep galleries for the Members of the House, and for the 
public. The Entrance for the Members is either by the public 
approaches, or a private door and staircase from the Star 
Chamber Court (one of the twelve Courts lighting the inte¬ 
rior), so called from occupying the site of that once dreaded 
tribunal. England and Wales return 500 members, Ireland 
105, and Scotland 53, making in all 658 members composing 
the House of Commons. 

St. Stephen's Hall, leading from Westminster Hall to the 
Great Central Hall, is 95 feet long by 30 wide, and to the 
apex of the stone groining 56 feet high. It derives its name 
from occupying the same space as St. Stephen’s Chapel of 
the ancient Palace, and is lined by 12 “statues of Parlia¬ 
mentary statesmen who rose to eminence by the eloquence 
and abilities they displayed in the House of Commons.” 


42 


V.—HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 


They are : Hampden, by Bell; Falkland, by Foley ; Clarendon, 
by Marshall; Selden, by Bell; Sir Eobert Walpole, Lords 
Somers and Mansfield, Lord Chatham, Charles Fox; William 
Pitt, by McDowal ; Burke, by Theed ; and Grattan. 

The Central or Octagon Hall is a grand apartment 80 ft. 
high, covered with a groined stone roof containing more 
than 250 elaborately carved bosses. From this hall coitI- 
dors extend, rt. to the House of Lords, and 1. to the 
House of Commons. On the walls of these comdors are 
painted The last sleep of Argyle before his Execution, The 
Burial of Charles I., The Execution of Montrose. Capture 
of Alice Lisle, Departure of the Pilgrim Fathers, all by 
E. N. Ward; “Charles I. erecting his Standard at Notting¬ 
ham,” by A'. R. PicJcersgill, A.R.A.; and “Speaker Lenthall 
asserting the Pi’ivilege of the Commons, when Charles I. 
attempted to seize the five members,” by Cross. 

The Upper Waiting Hall, or Poets' Hall, will contain 8 
frescoes from 8 British poets—viz., Chaucer, Spenser, Shaks- 
peare, Milton, Dryden, Pope, Scott, and Byron. Some have 
been completed. The Chaucer, by C. W. Cope, R.A., repre¬ 
senting a scene from Griselda; the Shakspeare,by/. R. Herbert, 
i2. A., Lear and his Daughter; the Milton, by/. C. Satan 

starting at the touch of IthurieTs Spear; and the Dryden, by 
John Tenniel, St. Cecilia. 

Admission to Inspect the House of Lords —free tickets for 
Saturdays to be obtained at the Chamberlain’s Office in the 
court next the Victoria Tower. Admission to the Strangers' 
Gallery to hear the debates' —a peer’s order. Up to 4 p.m., 
during the hearing of appeal cases, the House is open to the 
public. Admission to the Commons —a speaker’s order admits 
under the gallery to a very few select seats, and a member’s 
order, which any member can give. If you know an M.P., 
go to the lobby with the member’s name written on your 
card; at the door of the House you will see a good- 
tempered old gentleman, with a powdered head, sitting in j 
a watch-box. If you civilly ask him, he will send your card 
into the House, and thus fetch out the member you have 
named. Take care to keep on one side, out of the thoroughfare 
to the door or you will be warned off by a policeman. Take 
your seat before 5. Admission to the Strangers’ Gallery is 
secured to those holding a member’s ticket in the order of 
their arrival; doors are opened at 4, but many persons arrive 
on the spot some hours before, on occasions of debates of 
any importance. On the night of an interesting debate 
the House seldom rises before 2 o’clock in the morning. 
Ladies have been excluded fi’om the interior of the House 


VI.—THE THAMES. 


43 


since 1738. There is, however, a small gallery (above that 
of the Reporters), behind whose grating the ladies are invi¬ 
sible, and enjoy but an imperfect view of the House. The 
Speaker takes the chair at 5 p.m., when prayers are read, 
and business commences. The House invariably thins out 
about dinner-time, 7 p.m., and refills about 9 p.m. The best 
nights are Mondays and Fridays. On Wednesdays the 
House sits only from noon to 6 p.m. Unless forty members 
are present there is no House. The entire cost of erecting 
the Houses of Parliament, down to 1858, was 1,768,979^., 
as far as the architect was concerned ; but including other 
charges was less than two millions / 

Note.— For a detailed and graphic account of the usual proceedings 
in the House of Commons, refer to an article in the Quarterly Review 
for June, 1854. 


VI.-THE THAMES, ITS QUAYS, EMBANKMENT, 
AND BRIDGES; THAMES TUNNEL, POOL AND 
PORT OF LONDON. 

The Thames, on whose banks, about 60 miles above its 
embouchure in the North Sea, London is situated, is the 
noblest commercial river in the world, in reference to its 
length. It has hitherto been almost concealed from view 
of its inhabitants and degraded into a common sewer. The 
tide ascends as high as Richmond and Teddington, where it 
is a clear flowing stream; stijl higher up, from Maiden¬ 
head to Reading, its course is marked by picturesque beauty 
of a very high order. About Pangbourne it is pastoral 
and pretty ; and at the Nore and Sheerness, where the 
Medway joins it, it is an estuary where the British navy 
may sail, or ride safely at anchor. At very high tides, 
and after long easterly winds, the water at London Bridge 
is often brackish. Spenser calls it “ The silver-streaming 
Thames.” Denham has sung its praises in some noble 
couplets— 

“ O could I flow like thee, and make thy stream 
My great example, as it is my theme! 

Though deep yet clear, though gentle yet not dull. 

Strong without rage, without o’erflowing full.” 

And Pope described its banks with the accuracy of a Dutch 
painter in his ludicrous imitation of Spenser’s manner. 

The Thames Tunnel was opened, 1843. {See p. 48.) The 
first steam-boat seen on the Thames was in 1816. 




44 


VI.—THAMES EMBANKMENT. 


The London visitor should make a point of descending the 
Thames by a steamboat from Chelsea to Blackwall, a voyage 
of 14 hour. The objects, principally on the left or Middlesex 
bank, are enumerated in the order in which they present 
themselves. {See Thames, at end of volume.) 

THE THAMES EMBANKMENT, or River Quays.— 
While the Seine at Paris, a far inferior stream to the Thames, 
contributes one of the most beautiful features to the 
French metropolis, the Londoners have hitherto persisted 
in shutting out from sight their far more magnificent 
river, inclosing it with mean hovels and black wharves, 
and converting its stream into a sewer. Many schemes for 
embanking the Thames have been suggested, one of the 
earliest being that of John Martin, the painter, but nothing 
was done until 1864, when the Metropolitan Board of Works 
took the matter in hand. In 1865 a grand quay was com¬ 
menced along the left bank of the Thames, from West¬ 
minster Bridge to the Temple, which will be finished in the 
present year. It will form a thoroughfare 100 ft. wide, 
faced with granite masonry,—walls founded below low water 
mark, in coffer dams, and furnished at intervals with steam¬ 
boat landings. Beneath the embankment will be carried a 
great intercepting sewer, and along it the Metropolitan Dist. 
Railway. It will be accessible by streets leading down to 
the river at Charing Cross, and from the Mansion House to 
Blackfi’iars Brido;e, which will cost l,30O,00OZ., while that for 
the quay from Westminster to the Temple will amount to two 
millions sterling, derived principally from rates and partly 
from the dues levied on coal and wine brought into London. 
The space gained from the river vai-ies from 200 to 450 ft., 
and will afford sites for various public buildings. On the 
south embankment, opposite the Houses of Parliament, the 
new St. Thomas’s Hospital will be erected. The Thames 
Southern Embankment consists of a quay, road, and foot¬ 
way 60 feet wide, extending 4300 feet from Westminster 
Bridge to Lambeth Bridge. It is founded in concrete, and 
faced with granite. 

The Port o/Zowdow, legally so called, extends 6^ miles below 
London Bridge to a point called Bugsby’s Hole, over against 
Blackwall; but the Port itself does not reach beyond Lime- 
house. Nearly 50,000 vessels enter and leave the Thames 
in 12 months, or on an average 120 daily. The Customs 
duties paid at this Port amount to nearly 12 millions ster¬ 
ling per annum, or nearly one-half of the duties paid in the 
United Kingdom. Tlie Pool is that part of the Thames 


VI.—LONDON BRIDGE. 


45 


between London Bridge and Cuckold’s Point, where colliers 
and other vessels lie at anchor. It is said that no vessel 
of more than 300 tons is seen navigating above London 
Bridge. For some account of the Docks, see post, Commer¬ 
cial Buildings, &c. 

Every master of a collier is required, upon reaching 
Gravesend, to notify the arrival of his vessel to the officer 
upon the spot; and then he receives a direction to proceed 
to one of the stations appointed for the anchorage of colliei's. 
There are seven of these stations on different Reaches of the 
river. The ships are then directed to proceed in turn to the 
Pool, where about 250 are provided with stations in tiers 
at which they remain for a limited time to unload. 

“ This morning was fair and bright, and we had a passage thither 
[from London to Gravesend], I think as pleasant as can be conceived, 
for take it with all its advantages, particularly the number of fine ships 
you are always sure of seeing by the way, there is nothing to equal it in 
all the rivers in the world. The yards of Deptford and Woolwich are 
noble sights. . . . We saw likewise several Indiamen just returned 
from their voyage. . . . The colliers likewise, which are very 

numerous and even assemble in fleets, are ships of great bulk; and if 
we descend to those used in the American, African, and European trades, 
and pass through those which visit our own coasts, to the small craft that 
lie between Chatham and the Tower, the whole forms a most pleasing 
object to the eye, as well as highly warming to the heart of an English¬ 
man, who has any degree of love for his country, or can recognise any 
effect of the patriot in his constitution.”— Fielding, A Voyage to Lisbon. 

LONDON BRIDGE, 928 feet long, of five semi-elliptical 
arches, built from the designs of John Rennie, a native of Scot¬ 
land, and of his sons, John and George. The first stone was 
laid June 15th, 1825, and the bridge pitblicly opened by 
William IV., August 1st, 1831. It is built of granite, and is 
said to have cost, including the new approaches, near two 
millions of money. The centre arch is 152 feet span, with a 
rise above high-water mark of 29 feet 6 inches; the two 
arches next the centre are 140 feet in span, with a rise or 
27 feet 6 inches; and the two abutment arches are 130 feet 
span, with a rise of 24 feet 6 inches. The piers of the centre 
arch have sunk about six inches, owing, it is said by Telford 
and Walker, to over-piling. The lamp-posts are made from 
cannon taken in the Peninsular War. It is the last bridge 
over the Thames, or the one nearest to the sea, and is 54 feet 
wide, or 11 feet more than Waterloo. 

It has been ascertained that the number of carriages of all 
descriptions, and equestrians, who daily pass along London 
Bridge in the course of 24 hours exceeds 20,000; and that \ 
the number of pedestrians who pass across the bridge daily / 
during the same space of time, is not fewer than 107,000. 


46 


VI.—CHARING CROSS BRIDGE. 


By police arrangement since 1854, vehicles of slow traffic 
travel at the sides, the quick in the centre. The oldest London 
Bridge was of wood, and was first erected in 1209. 

The present low-water mark at London Bridge is 18 feet 
11 inches )below the Trinity House datum. Previous to 
1832, when the old bridge was removed, it was only 15 feet 
4 inches. In severe winters the starlings of the old bridge 
arresting the floating ice, at times caused the river to be 
frozen over. This is not likely to occur again since the impe¬ 
diments of the old bridge have been removed. 

The SOUTH EASTERN RAILWAY BRIDGE carries 
that railway from Charing Cross and London Bridge stations 
to Cannou Street terminus. It is of iron; five arches, two of 
135 ft., three central IhT ft. span, resting on 16 cylinder piers. 

SOUTHWARK BRIDGE, 708 feet long, of three cast-iron 
arches, resting on stone piers, designed by John Rennie, and 
erected by a public company, at an expense of about 800,000?. 
The first stone was laid April 23rd, 1815 ; and the bridge 
publicly opened April, 1819. The span of the centre arch is 
402 feet (38 feet wider than the height of the Monument, 
and the largest span of any arch in the world until the 
tubular bridges were made.) The entire weight of iron 
is about 5780 tons. The penny toll was abolished 1865, 
and the bi'idge purchased by the City for 200,000?. from the 
proprietors 1866. The cost of px'oper approaches would 
require (at the least) 150,000?. more. It is very ill placed. 

BLACKFRIARS BRIDGE. The old bridge of 4 arches, 
built 1760-69 by Robert Mylne, having failed in its piers 
and also in accommodating the increasing multitudes who 
pass over it, is replaced by a new one of iron, 75 feet wide. 
William Cubitt, engineer, 1866-68. 

This bridge affords a stately and imposing view of St. 
Paul’s Cathedral and Bow Church steeple, surmounted by 
its dragon. 

Close to Blackfriars is the Alexandra Lattice Bridge 
of the London Chatham and Dover Railway, carrying four 
lines of rails to Ludgate Hill station, 1040 feet long, 55 feet 
wide; central span 202 feet. 

CHARING-CROSS or Hungerford Bridge crosses the 
Thames from the Charing Cross Railway Station to Belvedere 
Road, Lambeth, and was built in 1863 by the South Eastern 
Railway Company in order to carry their line across the 
Thames to a station in the heart of Western London. It 
replaces Hungerford Suspension Bridge, built 1846, for foot 


VI.—^WESTMINSTER BRIDGE. 


47 


passengers only, which has been sold for 85,000Z. and 
removed to Clifton. The new Railway Bridge, which also 
admits foot passengei’s at the side, is of iron lattice resting 
on 6 or 7 cylinder and two brick piers, forming 8 spans 70 
ft. wide. Its width is sufficient for 4 lines of rails, and 
a footway 14 ft. broad. Mr. Hawkshaw was the Engineer. 
Toll for foot passengers one halfpenny. 

WATERLOO BRIDGE, perhaps the noblest bridge in the 
world, was built by a public company pursuant to an act 
passed in 1809. The first stone was laid 1811, and the 
bridge opened on the second anniversax’y of the battle of 
Waterloo, June 18th, 1817. It is said to have cost above a 
million. The engineer was John Rennie, son of a farmer at 
Phantassie, in East Lothian—the engineer of many of our 
celebrated docks and of the breakwater at Plymouth. 

“ Canova, when he was asked during his visit to England what struck 
him most forcibly, is said to have replied—that the trumpery Chinese 
Bridge, then in St. J ames’s Park, should be the production of the Govern¬ 
ment, whilst that of Waterloo was the work of a Private Company.”— 
Quarterly Review, No. 112, p. 309. 

M. Dupin calls it a colossal monument worthy of Sesostris 
and the Caesars.” It consists of nine elliptical arches of 120 
feet span, and 35 feet high, supported on piers 20 feet wide 
at the springing of the arches. The bridge is 1380 feet long, 
43 feet wide, the approach from the Strand 310 feet, and the 
causeway on the Surrey side, as far as supported by the land- 
arches, 766 feet, thus raising it to a level with the Strand, and 
unifoi-m throughout. This bridge affords a noble view of 
Somerset-house, the chef-d'oeuvre of Sir William Chambers. 
The toll charged is a halfpenny each person each way, and the 
receipts fromfoot-passengers in a half-year were 4676^. I7s.llc?., 
received from 2,244,910 pei’sons. The proprietors offer to 
sell the tolls for 700,000^. 

WESTMINSTER BRIDGE. The New Bridge from designs 
of Ml'. Page, was begun in 1856 and finished 1862. It 
is double the width of the old bridge, measuring 85 
feet, and consists of seven arches of iron (that in the 
centre 120 feet span) resting on stone piers, whose 
foundations descend 30 feet below low water. It is 
1160 feet long, and the centre arch rises 22 feet above 
high water. The rise in the centre is only 5 feet 4 in. 
The piers rest on bearing piles of elm, driven 20 feet into 
the London clay, and are cased with iron piles closely united, 
forming a sort of permanent coffer-dam. Upon these is 
laid a stratum of concrete, forming a foundation for the 
blocks of Cornish granite used in the stone work. The esti- 


48 


VI.—THE THAMES TUNNEL. 


J mated cost was 216,000Z. The arches are arranged in one 
‘ continuous curve from side to side of the river, an agreeable 
novelty. It is a very elegant structure, its roadway, wider 
than any other bridge in the world, commanding perhaps 
the best view of the Houses of Parliament. The bridge 
which this replaces, was the second stone bridge over the 
Thames. It was built by Labelye, a Swiss, 1739-1750, on 
caissons of timber, floated to the spot destined for the 
piers, and then sunk. It was surmounted by a lofty parapet, 
which M. Grosley, a French traveller, gravely asserted 
was placed there in order to prevent the English propensity 
to suicide ; but the real intention of Labelye was to secure a 
sufficient weight of masonry to keep his caissons to their 
proper level. The scour caused in the river bed by the 
removal of Old London Bridge effectually undermined 
several of the piers, whose foundations lay only 6 feet 
beneath low water. 

LAMBETH BRIDGE, from Lambeth Church to Horse- 
ferry Road. An iron wire suspension bridge of 3 spans each 
of 280 feet, supporting an iron platform, hung from rigid 
lattice bars resting on double cylinder piers. Peter Barlow, 

. Engineer, 1862. Estimated cost 40,000^. 

^ VAUXHALL BRIDGE. An iron bridge, of nine equal 
arches, over the Thames between Vauxhall and Millbank, 
built from the designs of James Walker, 1811-1816. It is 
the property of a private company, toll ^d., 4d. each horse. 
It is 798 feet long, and 36 feet wide, and is built on caissons. 

PIMLICO RAILWAY BRIDGE carries several railways 
to Victoria Station. 

PIMLICO SUSPENSION BRIDGE leads to Battersea 
Park. 

THE THAMES TUNNEL, 2 miles below London Bridge, 
is easily reached by the numerous steam-boats plying on the 
Thames, but is closed at present by the works of a railway 
which is being carried through it. It extends beneath the bed 
of the river Thames, connecting Wapping, on the left bank, 
with Rotherhithe, or Redriff, on the right. This great work—a 
monument of the skill, energy, and enterprise of Sir Isambard 
K. Brunei (d. 1849), by whom it was planned, carried out 
through great difficulties, and finally completed—was com¬ 
menced March 2nd, 1825, closed for seven years by an inun¬ 
dation which filled the whole tunnel with water, Aug. 12th, 
1828, recommenced Jan. 1835 (thousands of sacks of clay 
having been thrown in the interval into the river-bed above 


VII.—THE TREASURY. 


49 


it), and opened to the public, March 25th, 1843. The idea 
of the shield, upon which Bi'unel’s plan of tunnelling was 
founded, was suggested to him by the operations of the 
teredo, a testaceous worm, covered with a cylindrical shell, 
which eats its way through the hardest wood at the bottom 
of the sea. Brunei’s shield consisted of 12 separate timber 
frames, each of 3 stages or 36 cells in all. In these cells the 
miners worked, protected by the shield above and in front, 
and backed by the bricklayers behind, who built up as fast 
as the miners advanced. Government lent 247,000Z., in 
Exchequer Bills, to advance the works, and the total cost is 
468,000/. The yearly amount of tolls and receipts being 
under 6000?., which barely sufficed to cover the expenditure, 
including that arising from the constant influx of land springs, 
the Tunnel was sold in 1865 for 200,000?. by the Thames 
Tunnel Company to the East London Railway Company, 
who intend to carry a line through it, connecting the Great 
Eastern and North London Railways with the railways on 
the south of the Thames. The Tunnel consists of two 
arched passages, 1200 feet long, 14 feet wide, 16^ feet high, 
separated by a wall of brick 4 feet thick, with 64 arched 
openings in it. The crown of the arch is 16 feet below the 
bottom of the river. The descent and ascent are by stairs 
winding round cylindrical shafts 38 feet wide and 22 feet 
deep. The toll is one penny each passenger. 


VII.-GOVERNMENT OFFICES. 

THE TREASURY, Whitehall. A large range of building, 
between the Horse Guards and Downing-street, so called 
from its being the office of the Lord High Treasurer; an 
office of great importance, first put into commission in 1612, 
on Lord Salisbury’s death, and so continued with very few 
exceptions till the present time. The prime minister of the 
country is always First Lord of the Treasury, and enjoys a 
salary of 50001. a year, the same as the Chancellor of the 
Exchequer, but smaller in amount than the salaries of the 
Lord Chancellor and of the Lord Chief Justice. He has also 
an official residence in Downing-street. All the great money 
transactions of the nation are conducted here. The Lord 
High Treasurer used formerly to carry a white stafi) as the 
mark of his office. The royal throne still remains at the 
head of the Treasury table. The present facade toward the 
street was built (1846-47), by Sir Charles Barry, to replace 
a heavy front, the work of Sir John Soane. The core of the 



50 


VTI.—NEW PUBLIC OFFICES. 


building is of an earlier date, ranging from Eipley’s time, in 
the reign of George L, to the times of Kent and Soane. The 
building called “ the Treasnry” includes the Board of Trade, 
the Home, and Privy Council ofiSces. 

PEIVY COUNCIL OFFICE, Downing Street, White¬ 
hall, is part of the S. end of the range of Treasury build¬ 
ings. Here the Judicial Committee of the Privy Council meets 
to hear appeals, &c. Here are kept the minutes of the Privy 
Councils of the Crown, commencing in 1540. A minute of 
the reign of James II. contains the original depositions 
attesting the birth of the Prince of Wales, afterwards known 
as the Old Pretender. 

THE HOME OFFICE, in which the business of the 
Secretary of State for the Home Department {i.e. Great 
Britain and Ireland) is conducted, is at Whitehall, in part of 
the Treasury buildings. The salary of the Secretary is 
6000/. a year, and his duty is to see that the laws of the 
country are observed at home. His ofl&ce is one of great 
importance, and is always a Cabinet appointment. 

NEW PUBLIC OFFICES. A grand edifice of vast ex¬ 
tent, of Italian architecture, from the designs of G. G. Scott, 
is built on the site of Downing-street, extending thence 
to St. James’s-park and Parliament-street, to contain—the 
Foreign, Colonial, the East India Board, and other Offices: 
40,000/. was granted by Parliament for the site alone, and 
the estimate for the building was 200,000/. 

FOEEIGN OFFICE, removed to Whitehall Gardens 
until the Public Offices are built. The chief officer is a 
Cabinet Minister, and is called the “ Secretary of State for 
Foreign Affairs.” His salary is 5000/. a year. The Cabinet 
Councils of her Majesty’s Ministers ai’e held generally at 
the Foreign office, or at the residence of the Chancellor 
of the Exchequer, also in Downing Street. 

Passports are here issued by the Foreign Secretary to Bri¬ 
tish subjects recommended by a banker, at a charge of 2s. 
(See Handbook for Travellers on the Continent.) 

THE COLONIAL OFFICE, Downing Street —Govern¬ 
ment office for conducting the business between Great 
Britain and her 44 colonies. The head of the office is called 
the “ Secretary for the Colonies,” and is always a Cabinet 
Minister. His salary is 6000/. In a small waiting-room in 
the old building, the Duke of Wellington, then Sir Arthur 
Wellesley, and Lord Nelson, both waiting to see the Secre¬ 
tary of State, met, the only time in their lives. The duke 


VIT.—EXCHEQUER “CUSTOM HOUSE. 


51 


knew Nelson from his pictures. Lord Nelson did not know 
the duke, but was so struck with his conversation that he 
stept out of the room to inquire who he was. 

THE INDIA BOARD, removed from the East India 
House, Leadenhall-street, 1860, occupies, temporarily, a 
part of the Westminster Hotel, Victoria-street, for which a 
rent of 50001. per annum is paid. 

THE EXCHEQUER, or. Office of the Chancellor 
OF THE Exchequer. The principal office for fixing or 
receiving taxes is in Downing-street. The word Exchequer 
is derived from a four-cornered board, about 10 feet long 
and 5 feet broad, fitted in the manner of a table for men 
to sit about ; on every side whereof was a standing ledge 
or border, 4 fingers broad. Upon this board was laid a 
cloth, parti-coloured, which the French call Chcquy, and 
round this board the old Court of Exchequer was held. 
The Chancellor was one of the judges of the Court, and 
in ancient times he sat as such, together with the Lord 
Treasurer and the Barons. His duties since 4th William IV., 
c. 15, are entirely ministerial; the annual nomination of 
sheriffs being the only occasion on which the Chancellor takes 
his seat at the Court of Exchequer in Westminster Hall. 
The salary of the Chancellor is 5000Z. a year, with a house 
in Downing-street and a seat in the Cabinet. The income of 
Great Britain and Ireland, paid into the Exchequer, has been 
for some years upwards of 70 millions sterling. 

SECRETARY OF STATE FOR WAR, established during 
the war with Russia, 1854-56, when the offices of Secretary 
at War and Master-General of the Oi’dnance were united 
(with other powers). The affairs of the Army are managed 
at the War Office, Horse Guards, and the old Ordnance 
Office, 86, Pall Mall, built for the Duke of Cumberland (d. 
1767), brother of George IIL, to which Buckingham House 
(to the east) is added. 

THE CUSTOM HOUSE is in Lower Thames-street, facing 
the river. It was erected 1814-17 from the designs of 
David Laing, but in consequence of some defects in the 
piling, the original centre gave way, and the present front, 
to the Thames, erected by Sir Robert Smirke. Nearly one- 
half of the customs of the United Kingdom are collected 
in the Port of London, and about one-half of the persons 
in the Civil Service of the country are employed in duties 
connected with the collection. In London alone, upwards of 
2230 persons are employed in and attached to the London 
Custom House, and maintained at an annual expense of 


52 


VII.—WOODS, FORESTS.—POST-OFFICE. 


about 275,000Z. The customs dues levied at the port of 
London in one year amounts to 12,000,000^.—exceeding con¬ 
siderably the amount paid in all the other ports of the 
empire together. Liverpool, after London, is the next great 
port, but collects only 2,393,44 5Z. The average Customs 
revenue in the last nine years is about 20 millions, and 
the duties are conducted by commissioners appointed by 
the Crown. Seizures are stored in the Queen’s warehouse, 
and when the warehouse is full there is a public sale. 
These sales (some four a year) produce about 6000Z. They 
are principally attended by Jews and brokers. The sales 
take place in Mark Lane, while the goods are on view at a 
different place. Ohsei've .—The “ Long Koom,” 190 feet long 
by 66 broad. The Quay is a pleasant walk fronting the 
Thames. Hither Cowper, the poet, came, intending to make 
away with himself, 

OFFICE OF HER MAJESTY’S WOODS, FORESTS, 
AND LAND REVENUES, 1 and 2, Whitehall-place. This 
ofi&ce is managed by two Commissioners. The forests have 
not yielded a profit for many years, so that the chief revenue 
of the office has been derived from the Crown property in 
houses in the Bailiwick of St. James, Westminster, and 
in the Regent’s Park. The principal forest belonging to the 
Crown is the New Forest in Hampshire, formed by William 
the Conqueror, and in which William Rufus was slain. 

OFFICE OF HER MAJESTY’S PARKS, PALACES, 
AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS, 12, Whitehall-place. 

THE GENERAL POST-OFFICE, near St. Paul’s, 
Cheapside, and Newgate Street, stands on the site of 
the church of St. Martin’s-le-Grand, and was built 1825- 
29, from the designs of Sir R. Smirke, R.A. It is managed 
by a Post-Master-General, and one permanent Secretary, 
together with a staff of clerks, sorters, letter-carriers, &c,, 
amounting to 24,800 persons (1,500 belonging to the 
chief office) 3,300 to the London District). In 1840 the 
penny-post was introduced, which at first caused a loss of 
revenue, but now yields, after paying all expenses, 1^ 
million sterling. Introduction ,The cost of manage¬ 
ment is about 2,000,O00Z. ; the gross receipts 3,500,000Z. 
The Government Postage alone, in one year, varies from 
140,000Z. to 160,000Z. The number of letters delivered in 
a year amounts to 593,000,000, or eight-fold the number 
delivered before the reduction of the postage to one penny 
for every letter not exceeding half an ounce, and the num¬ 
ber of newspapers has risen from 42 to 72 millions in a 


VII.—POST-OFFICE. 


53 


year. The number of letters delivered in the London 
district, comprismg a radius of 12 miles round the Post- 
Office in St. Martin’s-le-Grand, is 6,270,000, far more than 
that delivered, under the old system, in the whole United 
Kingdom. Post-Office money-orders for sums not exceeding 
lOZ,, are issued at the several offices at the following rates : 
—For any sum not exceeding 2.1., threepence; above 21. 
and not exceeding 5^., sixpence; above 51. and not exceed¬ 
ing 7Z., ninepence; above 11. and not exceeding 10^., one 
shilling. A Postal Official Circular, containing a statement 
of the arrival and departure of packet-boats, of unclaimed 
letters, &c., is published every morning, under the authority 
of the Post-Master-General. Letters for departure the same 
night are received at this office later than at any other office. 
Some notion of the extent of business carried on in this hive 
of industry may be obtained from the fact, that the weekly 
wages of the London District Post alone amount to 1300?. 

In 1838 thei*e were 3,000 post-offices in England and 
Wales, now there are 11,000. As recently as 1826, there 
was but one receiving-office, in Pimlico, for letters to be 
delivered within the London radius; and the nearest office 
for receiving general post letters, that a person living in 
Pimlico could go to, was situated in St. James’s-street. In 
1856-57 Iron Receiving Posts, or Road Letter-Boxes, properly 
secured, and inserted in the pavement, were placed in the 
principal thoroughfares of London. There are now 2,000 of 
these. A person posting a letter early to a friend in town, 
may receive a reply and send a rejoinder on the same day. 
No house in London is more than a furlong distant from a 
Letter Box, or than of a mile from a Money-Order Office. 

Mail-coaches, for the conveyance of letters, were intro¬ 
duced in 1784, by Mr. Palmer; and the first conveyance of 
the kind left London for Bristol on the evening of the 24th 
of August, 1784. The penny postage (introduced by the 
untii’ing exertions of Sir Rowland Hill) came into operation 
on January 10th, 1840. Over against the facade of the 
Post-Office is the Money-Order Office of the same establish¬ 
ment, with a staff of 160 clerks and 2360 pigeon holes for 
the communications of the same number of Money-Order 
Offices throughout the United Kingdom. The orders issued 
in one year for the United Kingdom amount to nearly 15 
million pounds sterling. 

In 1854 the average weight of the Post-Office mail-bags 
that left London daily was 279 cwt., of which 219 cwt. con¬ 
sisted of newspapers. At present 71,000,000 newspapers, 
and 74 million book parcels are delivered in one year. 


54 


VII.—paymaster-general’s office. 


General Directions. — Letters addressed ‘‘ Post-Office, 
London,” or “ Poste Restante, London,” are delivered only 
at the General Post-Office, St. Martin’s-le-Grand, The 
hours of delivery from the Post-Office are from 10 a.m. 
to 4 p.M. When the person applying for letters is a 
foreigner, he must pi’oduce his passport. When a foreigner 
does not apply in person, but by a messenger despatched 
for that purpose, the messenger must produce the pass¬ 
port of the person to whom the letters are addressed, 
as well as a written order, signed and dated by such person. 
In the case of a messenger being sent for the letters of 
more persons than one, he must produce passports and orders 
from each person. If the applicant for the letters is a sub¬ 
ject of the United Kingdom, he must be able to state from 
what place or district he expects letters before he can receive 
them. Subjects of States not issuing passports are treated 
as subjects of the United Kingdom. If letters are directed 
to individuals simply addressed “ London” (and not “Post- 
Office,” or “ Poste Restante, London”), they will not be de¬ 
livered from the window at all, but will be sent out by 
letter-carriers for delivery at the address furnished by 
the applicant. Foreign letters addressed “Post-Office,” or 
“ Poste Restante, London,” are retained for two months 
at the Post-Office. Inland letters similarly addressed 
are retained one month; after the expiration of these 
periods both classes of letters are respectively sent to 
the Dead Letter-Office, to be disposed of in the usual 
manner. All persons applying for letters at the Post- 
Office must be prepared to give the necessary explanations 
to the clerk, in order to prevent mistakes, and to insure 
the delivery of the letters to the persons to whom they 
properly belong. In 1856 London and its environs were 
divided into 10 postal districts, 1, East Central (E.C.) ; 
2, West Central (W.C.); 3, N.; 4, N.E.; 5, E.; 6, S.E.; 7, S.; 
8 , S.W.; 9, W; 10, N.W. The divisions between them 
can be shown only on a map. A street list published by the 
Post-Office gives the initials of the district after every street, 
and the public are invited to add these initials to the 
addresses of letters in order to facilitate rapid delivery. The 
Penny Queen’s Heads are engraved, printed, and gummed 
at 5d. per thousand. (See Introduction.) 

PAYMASTER-GENERAL’S OFFICE, Whitehall, next 
the Horse Guards. The office of her Majesty’s Paymaster- 
General for the payment of army, navy, ordnanee, civil 
services, and exchequer bills. The office is managed by a 


VII.—HORSE GUARDS. 


55 


paymaster, an assistant-paymaster, and a staff of sixty clerks. 
It was originally the office of the Paymaster-General of the 
Forces, and was not permanently enlarged till 1836, when 
the offices of Treasurer of the Navy and Treasurer of the 
Ordnance were abolished. This office is yearly increasing 
in importance, and before very long will make nearly all the 
national payments in detail. 

Quarterly payments of salaries are made on and after the 
8 th day of April, July, October, and January. 

HORSE GUARDS, at Whitehall. A guard-house and 
public building where the Commander-in-Chief, the Adjutant- 
Genei’al, Quartermaster-General, &c., have their offices. It 
was built about 1753, after a design furnished, it is said, by 
Kent. The archway under it forms a principal entrance to 
St. James’s Park from the east; but the entree for carriages 
is permitted only to royal personages and others having leave. 
At each side of the entrance facing Whitehall a mounted 
cavalry soldier stands sentry every day from 10 to 4. The 
guard is relieved every morning at a quarter to 11. The 
pay of the General Commanding-in-Chief is 9^. %s. Qd. a day; 
of the Adjutant-General, 3^. 15s. lOd a day; and of the 
Quartermaster-General, 3^. 15s. 10c?. a day. The Adjutant- 
General is responsible to the Commander-in-Chief for the 
arming, clothing, training, recruiting, discipline, and general 
efficiency of the army; the Quartermaster-General carries 
out the orders of the Commander-in-Chief as regards the 
movements and quarters of the troops.* The English sol¬ 
dier enlists for 10 or 12 years, but may purchase his dis¬ 
charge at an earlier period. The British army is composed 
of about 9000 regimental officers on full pay, and the War 
Office is maintained at a cost of 160,000?. a year. The total 
cost of the British army before the Crimean War was about 
7 millions, of the navy about 7 millions, and of the ord¬ 
nance about 3 millions. The number of men in tbe army is 
determined by the Cabinet and sanctioned by Parliament. 
The troops are divided into Household Troops, the Ordnance 
Corps, and the Line—the first seldom leaving England, 
except in the case of war. A private of the Life Guards 
has Is. lljc?. a day, and a private of the Horse Guards 
Is. 8iC?. a day; the difference arising from an oversight in 
1796, in not withdrawing barrack allowances from the pri¬ 
vates of the Life Guards. The privates in the Foot Guards 

* Sir Philip Francis, the supposed author of “Junius,” was a clerk in 
the War Office from 1763 to 1772, when he resigned, or was removed, full 
of ire against Lord Barrington, who had promoted Mr. Chamier over his 
head to be Deputy Secretary at War. 


56 VII.—THE ADMIRALTY—SOMERSET HOUSE. 

have Ic?. a day more than the Line. The Line have l5. a 
day, and Ida day for beer money. The price of a Lieut.- 
Colonel’s commission in the Guards is 90001., and of an 
Ensign’s commission 1200^. In the Line, the pi'ice of a 
Lieut-Colonel’s commission is 45001., and of an Ensign’s 
commission is 4501, 

THE ADMIRALTY, in Whitehall, occupies the site of 
Wallingford House, in which the business of the Lord High 
Admiral, first conducted here in 1626 under Villiers, 
Duke of Buckingham, became permanently established in 
the reign of William III. The front towards the street 
was built (circ. 1726) by Thomas Ripley, architect of 
Houghton Hall in Norfolk, the “Ripley with a rule,” 
commemorated by Pope .—The Dunciad, b. iii. 

“ See under Ripley rise a new Whitehall, 

While Jones’ and Boyle’s united labours fall.” 

The screen towards the street was erected in 1776 by the 
brothers Adam. The office of Lord High Admiral, since the 
Revolution of 1688, has, with three exceptions, been held 
in commission. The exceptions are. Prince George of Den¬ 
mark, the husband of Queen Anne, 1702 to 1708 ; Thomas, 
Earl of Pembroke, for a short time in 1709; and the Duke 
of Clarence, afterwards King William IV., in 1827-28. 
Among the First Lords Commissioners we may find the names 
of Anson, Hawke, Howe, Keppell, and St. Vincent. Adjoin¬ 
ing to, and communicating with the Admiralty, is a spacious 
house for the residence of the First Lord. The Secretary 
and three or four of the junior Lords have residences in the 
northern wing of the building. The salary of the First Lord, 
who has the whole patronage of the Navy in his hands, 
is 4500?. a year. The correspondence of the Admiralty is 
chiefly conducted here, but the accounts are kept by five 
different officers in what used to be the Navy and Victualling 
Offices at Somerset House in the Strand, viz., 1. Surveyor of 
the Navy. 2. Accountant-General. 3. Store-keeper-General. 
4. Comptroller of the Victualling and Transport Services. 5. 
Inspector-General of Naval Hospitals and Fleets. Observe .— 
Characteristic portrait of Lord Nelson, painted at Palermo, 
in 1799, for Sir William Hamilton, by Leonardo Guzzardi; 
he wears the diamond plume which the Sultan gave him. 
In the house of the Secretary are the portraits of the Secre¬ 
taries from Pepys to the present time. 

SOMERSET HOUSE, in the Strand. A handsome pile 
of building, erected 1776-1786, on the site of the palace of 


VII.—SOMERSET HOUSE. 


57 


the Protector Somerset. The architect was Sir William 
Chambers, son of a Scottish merchant. The general propor¬ 
tions of the building are good, and some of the details 
of great elegance, especially the entrance, archway from the 
Strand. The terrace elevation towards the Thames was 
made, like the Adelphi-terrace of the brothers Adam, in 
anticipation of the long projected embankment of the river, 
and is one of the noblest fa5ades in London. The building 
is in the form of a quadrangle, with wings added by 
Smirke and Pennethoime, and contains within its walls, 
from 10 to 4, about 900 government officials, maintained 
at an annual cost of something like 275,000Z. The 
principal government offices in the building are the Audit 
Office, established in 1785, where the accounts of the king¬ 
dom and the colonies are audited by commissioners 
appointed for the purpose; the Office of Registrar-General of 
Births, Deaths, and Marriages in England (in the old rooms 
of the Royal Academy of Arts); the Inland Revenue Office, 
where public taxes, stamps, legacy and excise duties are 
received from the several district collectors; and the branch 
offices of the Admiralty. The Inland Revenue is managed by 
Commissioners, the chairman having a salary of 2500Z. a-year, 
the highest received by any public officer in Somerset House. 
In rooms two stories below the level of the quadrangle, the 
mechanical operations are conducted. Legal and commercial 
stamps are impressed by hand-presses. The name of each 
newspaper has been inserted, since the reduction of duty in 
1836, in the die, in movable type, and by this means a 
private register is obtained of the stamped circulation of every 
newspaper in the kingdom. In the basement story, are presses 
moved by steam: some employed in printing medicine- 
labels ; some in printing stamps on country bank-notes; 
others in stamping the embossed medallion of the Queen on 
postage envelopes; and others in printing penny and two¬ 
penny postage stamps on sheets. The Admiralty occupies 
nearly a third of the building, and is a brancli (rather perhaps, 
the body) of the Admiralty at Whitehall. The Eastern 
wing of the Strand front is occupied by the Society of 
Antiquaries, the Astronomical and Geological Societies. 
The Royal Society removed hence to Burlington House, 
1856. [See Learned Institutions.'] Observe, under the 
vestibule, on your left as you enter (distinguished by a 
bust of Sir Isaac Newton), the entrance-doorway to the 
apartments of the Society and Society of Antiquaries ’,— 
under the same vestibule, on your right as you enter (dis¬ 
tinguished by a bust of Michael Angelo), the entrance- 


58 


VII.—ROYAL MINT. 


doorway, from 1780 to 1830, of the apartments of the 
Ro7jal Academy of Arts. The last and best of Sir Joshua 
Keynolds’s Discourses was delivered by him in the 
gi’eat room of the Academy, at the top of the building. 
The east vdug of the building, erected 1829, is occupied by 
King*s College. [See Index.^ 

The Inland Revenue Office, or the Excise, Stamp, Legacy 
Duty, and Property-tax Office, occupies nearly one-half 
of the building. Malt and spirits are the articles produc¬ 
ing the most Excise-money to the Exchequer. The duty 
of excise was fii’st introduced into this country by an ordi¬ 
nance of Parliament, of July 22nd, 1643, when an im¬ 
post was laid upon beer, ale, wine, and other provisions, for 
carrying on a war against the king. The duties of the 
Inland Revenue Office have been consolidated since 1848, 
when the business of the Excise office in Old Broad-street 
was transferred hither. The west wing, fronting Wellington- 
street, erected 1854-6, by Pennethorne, at a cost of 81,123^., 
belongs to the Inland Revenue Office. The bronze statue of 
George III,, and figure of Father Thames, in the quadrangle, 
are by John Bacon, R.A., and cost 2000^. 

In the south-east angle of the building, a little above tbe 
entrance-door to the Stamps and Taxes, is a white watch-face, 
regarding which the popular belief has been and is, that it 
was left there by a labouring man who fell from a scaffold 
at the top of the building, and was only saved from destruc¬ 
tion by the ribbon of his watch, which caught in a piece of 
projecting work. In thankful remembrance (so the story 
runs) of his wonderful escape, he afterwards desired that his 
watch might be placed as near as possible to the spot where 
his life had been saved. Such is the story told fifty times a 
week to groups of gaping listeners—a stoiy I am sorry to 
disturb, for the watch of the labouring man is nothing more 
than a watch-face, placed by the Royal Society as a mei'idian 
mark for a portable transit instrument in one of the windows 
of their ante-room. The iron fastenings on the foot-gates 
from the Strand were made to support a formidable chevaux 
de frise, and are among the few existing memorials of the 
memorable 10th of April, 1848. 

The number of windows in Somerset House is 3600. This 
was re-ascertained in 1850 by the painter who contracted to 
paint the outside of the building. It took one man three 
days to count them. 

THE ROYAL MINT, on Tower Hill. The elevation of 
the building was by a Mr. Johnson; the entrances, &c., by Sir 


VI [.—BURLINGTON HOUSE. 


59 


Robert Smirke. The coinage of the three kingdoms, and of 
many of our colonies, is executed within these walls. The 
various processes connected with coining are carried on by a 
series of ingenious machines. The most curious process is 
that by which the metal, when tested to show that it contains 
the proper alloy, is drawn through rollers by an engine 
called “ the drawing bench,” to the precise thickness I’equired 
for the coin which is to be cut out of it. In the case of gold, 
the difference of a hair’s breadth in any part of the plate or 
sheet of gold would alter the value of a sovereign. By 
another machine circular disks are punched out of the sheets 
of metal of any size required, and by a number of screw 
presses these blanks, as they are called, are stamped on 
obverse and reverse at the same time. Eveiy process has an 
interest of its own ; but none are more suggestive, and more 
worth seeing, than the rapid motion by which sixty or seventy 
sixpences may be struck in a minute, and half-ci’owns or 
sovereigns in minor proportions; or the mode in which the 
press feeds itself with the blanks to be coined, and, when 
struck, removes them from between the dies. The coins are, 
of course, struck from dies. A matrix in relief is first cut 
in soft steel by the engraver. When this is hardened, many 
dies may be obtained from it, provided the metal resists the 
great force required to obtain the impression. Many matrices 
and dies split in the process of stamping. The mode of 
hardening the dies, by a chemical process, is kept secret. 
The present Master of the Mint is Thomas Graham, Esq., an 
office formerly held by Sir Isaac Newton and Sir John 
Herschel. Thomas Simon was graver to the Mint during the 
Protectorate of Cromwell, and the early part of the reign of 
Charles II. The Mint receives gold bullion for coinage, 
“ without any charge whatever,” on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and 
Saturdays, between 12 and 2 o’clock. Persons intending to 
deliver gold to the Mint for coinage must give one week’s 
notice of their intention, by letter addressed to the Master. 
Mode of Admission .—Order from the Master, which is not 
transferable, and is available only for the day specified. In 
all applications for admission, the names and addresses of 
the persons wishing to be admitted, or of some one of them, 
with the number of the rest, are to be stated. 

BURLINGTON HOUSE, Piccadilly, late the residence of 
the Hon. Charles Cavendish, stands between Bond-street and 
Sackville-street, and was built by Richard Boyle, Lord Bur¬ 
lington, the architect. The walls and ceilings were painted 
by Marco Ricci. 


60 


VII.—BURLINGTON HOUSE. 


" Few in this vast city suspect, I believe, that behind an old brick 
wall in Piccadilly there is one of the finest pieces of architecture in 
Europe .”—Sir William Chambers. 

“ As we have few samples of architecture more antique and imposing 
than that colonnade I cannot help mentioning the effect it had on 
myself. I had not only never seen it, but had never heard of it, at least 
with any attention, when, soon after my return from Italy, I was 
invited to a ball at Burlington-house. As I passed under the gate by 
night, it could not strike me. At daybreak, looking out of the windows 
to see the sun-rise, I was surprised with the vision of the colonnade that 
fronted me. It seemed one of those edifices in fairy-tales that are raised 
by genii in a night-time.”—Horace Walpole. 

Lord Burlington was born in 1695, and died in 1753, when 
the title became extinct, and Burlington House the property 
of the Dukes of Devonshire. A print by Hogarth, called 
“ The Man of Taste, containing a view of Burlington Gate,” 
represents Kent on the summit in his threefold capacity 
of painter, sculptor, and architect, flourishing his palette and 
pencils over the heads of his astonished supporters, Michael 
Angelo and Eaphael. On a scafibld, a little lower down. 
Pope stands, whitewashing the front, and while he makes 
the pilasters of the gateway clean, his wet brush bespatters 
the Duke of Chandos, who is passing by; Lord Burlington 
serves the poet in the capacity of a labourer, and the date of 
the print is 1731. Kent was patronised by Lord Burlington. 
Handel lived for three years in this house. 

“ —Burlington’s fair palace still remains. 

Beauty within—without, proportion reigns; 

Beneath his eye declining art revives. 

The wall with animated pictures lives. 

There Handel strikes the strings, the melting strain 
Transports the soul, and thrills through every vein; 

There oft I enter—but with cleaner shoes. 

For Burlington’s beloved by every Muse.”—Gay, Trivia. 

The Duke of Portland, when Minister in the reign of George 
III., resided in Burlington House. 

Burlington House and the Garden in wliich it stands (area 
143,000 square feet) were bought by Government in 1854 for 
140,000Z. for the benefit of the public. It accommodates at 
present—the Eoyal Society, whose meetings, as well as those 
of the Geographical Society, Linnaean, and Chemical, are held 
in the W. wing, originally the stables. The Examinations of 
the University of London are held here,—also meetings of the 
Council. In the rear (N.) of the present building, to be 
accessible both through its central hall and from Burlington 
Gardens, it is intended to erect a new building for the 
reception of the University —and another for the Royal 
Academy, which will be removed hither from Trafalgar-square. 


VII.—RECORD OFFICE. 


61 


The RECORD OFFICE.—A Public Record Office was 
built 1856 on the Rolls estate between Chancery-Lane and 
Fetter Lane. It is a vast fire-proof edifice, designed to in¬ 
clude the public reco^rds formerly kept in the Tower, the 
Chapter-house, Westminster, Rolls’ Chapel, and St. James’s 
Park. They are the most ancient, uninterrupted, and com¬ 
plete series of archives in the world. Here are preserved 
Domesday Book, or the Survey of England made by William 
the Conqueror, two volumes on vellum of unequal size, the 
earliest survey of the kind made in Europe, and is in a veiy 
perfect condition; deed of resignation of the Scottish Crown 
to Edward II.; the Charter granted by Alfonso of Castile to 
Edward I., on his marriage with Eleanor of Castile, with a 
solid seal of gold attached; a Treaty of Peace between 
Henry VIII. and Francis I. of France, with the gold seal 
attached in high relief, and undercut, supposed to be the 
work of Benvenuto Cellini. 

The several instruments of the surrender to Henry VIIT. 
of the whole of the monasteries in England and Wales. 

Access to the papers in the Record and State Pajper Office 
can be obtained by any respectable person, on signing the 
name in a book kept for the purpose. Unrestricted access 
to State papers since the Revolution is granted only by a 
written order from the Secretary of State for the Home 
Department. A convenient Reading-room has been built. 

The Prerogative Will Office * in Doctors’ Commons, 
where all wills are proved and administration granted. The 
office abounds in matter of great biographical importance— 
illustrative of the lives of eminent men, of the descent of 
property, and of the manners and customs of bygone times. 

The Department for Literary Inquiry is open (since 1862) 
from 10, A.M., to 3, p.m., except from August 10th to October 
10 th, when it is open from 11 to 2'30. It is closed Saturdays 
and holidays. Visitoi’s are allowed, without fees, to search 
the calendars, read registered copies of wills before 1700, 
and to make extracts in pencil only. Only three persons 
can be admitted at a time. 

Here may be seen the original will of Shakspeare, on 
three folio sheets of paper, with his signature to each sheet; 
the wills of Van Dyck the painter, of Inigo Jones, Sir Isaac 
Newton, Dr. Johnson, Izaak Walton; in short, of all the 
great men of this country who died possessed of property 
in the south of England. The will of Napoleon, made at St. 

• The building is sold to the Metropolitan Board; and it may be 
pulled down to make way for a street to the river. 


62 


VIII.—BANK OF ENGLAND. 


Helena, by which he bequeathed 10,000 francs to Cantillon, 
a French soldier,' for trying to shoot the Duke of Wel¬ 
lington, in Paris, was surrendered to the French, 1853. 

The office hours at the Prerogative Will Office are 9 
to 3 in winter, and 9 to 4 in summer. The charges for 
searching the calendars of names is Is. for every name. The 
charge for seeing the original will is a shilling extra. Persons 
are not allowed to make even a pencil memorandum, but 
official copies of wills may be had at eightpence per folio. 

At the Department for Personal Application, persons may 
prove a will and take out probate without assistance of 
Proctor or Solicitor since 1861. 


VIII.-COMMERCIAL BUILDINGS AND DOCKS. 

BANK OF ENGLAND, Threadneedle-steeet, City 
(West End Branch in Burlington Gardens).—“The principal 
Bank of Deposit and Circulation; not in this country only, 
but in Europe,”—was founded in 1694, and grew out of a 
loan of 1,200,000?. for the public service. Its principal 
projector was William Paterson, a Scotch gentleman (en¬ 
couraged by Charles Montague, afterwards Chancellor of the 
Exchequer and Earl of Halifax); who, according to his own 
account, commenced his exertions for the establishment of a 
National Bank in 1691. By the laws and regulations which 
he left, no Scotchman is eligible to fill the post of a Director. 

From 1694 to 1734, the business of the Bank was carried 
on in Grocers’ Hall, in the Poultry, when it was removed to 
an establishment of its own (part of the present edifice), 
designed by Mr. George Sampson. East and \vest wings 
were added by Sir Robert Taylor, between 1766 and 1786. 
Sir John Soane subsequently receiving the appointment 
of architect to the Bank, part of the old building was either 
altered or taken down, and the Bank, much as we now see 
it, covering an irregular area of four acres, was completed 
by him. It has the mei’it of being well adapted for the 
purposes and business of the Bank. The corner towards 
Lothbury, though small, is much admired. It is copied 
from the Temple of the Sibyl, at Tivoli. The stone copings, 
or breast-work, behind the balustrade along the top of the 
wall, were added by C. R. Cockerell, R.A., after the^.Char- 
tist meeting on the 10th of April, 1849. The area in the 
centre, planted with trees and shrubs, and ornamented with 
a fountain, was formerly the churchyard of St. Christopher, 
Threadneedle-street. The management of the Bank is 
vested in a Governor, Deputy-Governor, and twenty-four 



Capel Court and Stock 
Exchange. 



GROUND PLAN 


OP TUB 

BANK 

0 » 

ENG LAN D. 


Entrance, 


1 . K!^bt]y watch. 

5,2. Secretary’s oflBce 
ana room. 

3. Chief accountant's 

parlour. 

4. Secretary’s house. 

&. Power 01 attorney's 

office. 

6. Private rooms 
Branch banks office. 

7. Ueputyaccountant’s 

office. 

8. Chief accountant's. 

9. Chief casliier’s. 

10, Governor's room. 

11. Dejputy fTovernor's. 
12,12. Committee rooms. 


13. Officers' rooms. 

U. Three percent, or .3^ 
per cent, transfer. 

15. Rotunda or dividend 

pay office. 

16. Bullion office. 

1". Pay hall. 

IS. Cheque office. 

19. Servants' room. 

20. Coffee room. 

21. Discount office. 

22. Open courts for 

light. 

23. Passages, lobbies. 

&c. 

24. Waiting room, 

26. Chancery offices. 


Bartholomew-lane. 


Princes-street. 


Princes-Btreet, 3 ® 























































































































VIII.—BANK OF ENGLAND. 


G3 


Directors, eight of whom go out every year. The qualifi¬ 
cation for Governor is 4000^. Stock, Deputy-Governor 3000^., 
and Director 2000L The room in which the Directors meet 
is called the Banlc Parlour. The profits accrue from interest 
on Exchequer-bills, discounts, interest on capital lent to 
Government, an allowance of about 40,000Z. a year for 
managing the Public Debt, and some other sources. The 
dividend received by the proprietors is 7 per cent. In the 
lobby of the Parlour is a portrait of Abraham Newland, who 
rose from a baker’s counter to be chief clerk of the Bank of 
England, and to die enormously rich. Madox, who wrote 
the History of the Exchequer, was the first chief cashier. 
The persons employed were at first only 54; they are now 
900. The salaries rise from 50Z. to 1200^. a year. The 
cost in salaries alone is about 210,000^. a year. There is 
a valuable library, for the use of the clerks. The Bullion 
Office is situated on the N. side, in the basement story, 
and formed part of the original structure. It consists of 
a public chamber for the transaction of business, a vault 
for public deposits, and a vault for the private stock. 
No one is allowed to enter the bullion vaults except in 
company of a Director. The amount of bullion in the 
possession of the Bank of England constitutes, along with 
their securities, the assets which they place against their 
liabilities, on account of cix'culation and deposits; and the 
difference (about three millions) between the several 
amounts is called the “Rest,” or guarantee fund, to pro¬ 
vide for the contingency of possible losses. Gold is almost 
exclusively obtained by the Bank in the “ bar ” form ; 
although no form of the deposit would be refused. A 
bar of gold is a small slab, weighing 16 lb., and worth 
about 800Z. 

In the process of weighing, a number of admirably-con¬ 
structed balances are brought into operation. A large balance, 
invented by Mr. Bate, weighs silver in bars, from 50 lb. 
to 80 lb. troy;—a balance, invented in 1820 by Sir John 
Barton, of the Mint, weighs gold coin in quantities varying 
from a few ounces to 18 lb. troy, and gold in bars of 
any weight up to 15 lb. These instruments are very per¬ 
fect in their action, admit of easy regulation, and are of 
durable construetion. The balance made by Mr. Cotton, is 
furnished with glass weights, and weighs at the rate of 33 
sovereigns a minute. The machine appears to be a square 
brass box, in the inside of which, secure from currents of 
air, is the machinery. This wonderful and ingenious piece 
of mechanism is so contrived, that, on receiyiag the 


64 


VIIT.—ROYAL EXCHANGE. 


sovereigns, it discriminates so as to throw those of full 
weight into one box, and to reject those of light weight into 
another. There are 10 of these machines in operation, and 
they weigh between 60,000 and 70,000 pieces daily. Do not 
omit to see the wonderful machinery, invented by John 
Oldham (d. 1840), by which bank-notes are printed and num¬ 
bered with unerring pi'ecision, in progi’ession from 1 to 
100,000; the whole accompanied by such a system of regis¬ 
tration and checks as to record everything that every part 
of the machine is doing at any moment, and render fraud 
impossible. The value of Bank-notes in circulation is up¬ 
wards of 18,000,000?., and the number of persons receiving 
dividends in one year is about 284,000. The Stock or An¬ 
nuities upon which the Public Dividends are payable amount 
to about 774,000,000?,, and the yearly dividends payable 
thereupon to about 25,000,000?. The issue of paper on secu¬ 
rities is not permitted to exceed 14,000,000?. The bullion 
in the vaults, 17,320,000?. The mode of admission to view 
the intenor of the Bank, Bullion Of&ce, &c., is by [special 
order from the Governor, Deputy-Governor, or any of the 
Directors. For a list of Bank Directors for the current 
year, see any almanac or pocket-book. Strangers may walk 
through the public rooms. Hall, Rotunda, &c., any day except 
holidays, from 9 to 3. dividends are paid on July 5th, and 
January 5th. 

THE ROYAL EXCHANGE (a quadrangular edifice, with 
a portico on the W. side facing down Cheapside; and the 
third building of the kind on the same site), erected for the 
convenience of merchants and bankers; built from the 
designs of William Tite, and opened by Queen Victoria, 
Oct. 28th, 1844. The sculpture in the pediment was by 
R. Westmacott, R.A. (the younger). The Exchange con¬ 
sists of an open court or quadz’angle, surrounded by a 
colonnade, with a marble statue of her Majesty, by Lough; 
and statues of Sir Thomas Gresham, Sir Hugh Myddelton, 
and Queen Elizabeth, by Messrs. Joseph, Carew, and Wat¬ 
son. It is said to have cost 180,000?.; but is now much 
disfigured externally by shops, in opposition to the firmly 
expressed wishes of its architect. The hour of ’Change, 
the busy period, is from half-past 3 to half-past 4 p.m. 
The two great days on ’Change are Tuesday and Fri¬ 
day. The Rothschilds occupy a pillar on the S. side. 

In the E. part, up-stairs, are Lloyd's Subscription Rooms 
{originally Lloyd's Coffee House), the centre and focus of all 
intelligence, commercial and political, domestic and foreign, 


VIII.—ROYAL EXCHANGE—LLOYD’S. 


65 


where merchants, shippers, and underwriters attend to 
obtain shipping intelligence, and where the business of 
Marine Insurance is carried on through the medium of 
underwriters. There is no one engaged in any extensive 
mercantile business in London who is not either a member 
or subscriber to Lloyd’s; and thus the collective body 
represents the greater part of the mercantile wealth of the 
country. The enti'ance to Lloyd’s is in the area, near the 
eastern gate of the Royal Exchange. A wide flight of steps 
leads to a handsome vestibule, ornamented by marble statues 
of Prince Albert, by Lough; tho late William Huskisson, by 
Gibson, R.A., presented by his widow. On the walls is the 
tablet,erected as a testimonial to the ‘^Times’’ newspaper, for 
the public spirit displayed by its proprietor in the ex¬ 
posure of a fraudulent conspiracy. In this vestibule are 
the entrances to the three principal subscription-rooms— 
the Underwriters’, the Merchants’, and the Captains’ Room. 

The affairs of Lloyd's are managed by a committee of nine 
members. The chairman is elected annually: he is generally 
a merchant of eminence and a member of Parliament. There 
is a secretary and 8 clerks, 8 waiters, and 5 messengers. 
The expenses amount to upwards of 10,000Z. per annum. 
The income is derived from the subscriptions of about 1900 
members and subscribers, and substitutes; the payments 
from the insurance and other public companies; the adver¬ 
tising of ships’ bills, and the sale of Lloyd’s List. Each 
member pays 25Z. admission, and an annual subscription of 
47. 4s.; but if an underwriter, 10?. 10s. Annual subscribers 
to the whole establishment pay fom’ guineas, or if to the 
Merchants’ Room only, then two guineas. The admission is 
by ballot of tho committee, on the recommendation of six 
subscribers. 

What is called Lloyd^s Register of British and Foreign 
Shipping is in No. 2, White-Lion-court, Cornhill, and was 
established in 1834. 'The object of the Society was to obtain 
a knowledge of the condition of the mercantile shipping, by 
means of careful surveys to be made by competent surveyors, 
and thus to secure an accurate classification according to the 
real and intrinsic worth of the ship. The affairs of the 
Society which instituted this book are managed by a com¬ 
mittee consisting of 24 members, namely 8 merchants, 8 
shipowners, and 8 underwriters. Six members (2 of each of 
the description just mentioned) retire annually, but are 
eligible to be re-elected. The right of election rests equally 
with the committee for Lloyd’s and the committee of tho 
General Shipowners’ Society. 

r 


66 VIII.—TRINITY HOUSE.—STOCK EXCHANGE. 


On the architrave of the N. fa 9 ade of the Exchange are 
inscriptions in relief, divided by a simple moulding. “ The 
Earth is the Lord’s and the fulness thereof,” was suggested 
by the Prince Consort. The one on the left of the spee- 
tator is the common City motto, ‘'domine dirige nos,” 
and that on the right “honor deo.” The motto in the 
central compartment, “fortvn. a. my,” was the motto of 
Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of the first Eoyal Exchange, 
1566, which was opened by Queen Elizabeth, Jan. 23rd, 
1570-1. 

TRINITY HOUSE, on the N. side of Tower Hill, built 
by Samuel Wyatt, belongs to a company founded by Sir 
Thomas Spert, Comptroller of the Navy to Henry VIII., 
and commander of the Harry Grace de Dieu, and was incor¬ 
porated (March 20th, 1529) by the name of “The Master, 
Wardens, and Assistants of the Guild, Fraternity, or Brother¬ 
hood, of the most glorious and Undividable Trinity, and of 
St. Clement, in the parish of Deptford Strond, in the county 
of Kent.” The corporation consists of a Master, Deputy 
Master, 31 Elder Brethren, and an unlimited number of 
“younger brethren,” and has for its object the increase and 
encouragement of navigation, &c., the regulation of light¬ 
houses, and sea-marks, the securing of a body of skilled and 
efficient for pilots the navy and mercantile service, and the 
general management of nautical matters not immediately 
connected with the Admiralty. The revenue of the corpora¬ 
tion, arising from tonnage, ballastage, beaconage, &c., is 
applied (after defraying the expenses of light-houses, buoys, 
&c.) to the relief of decayed seamen, their widows and 
children. In the house are busts of Nelson, St. Vincent, 
Howe, and Duncan; portraits of James I. and his Queen, of 
James II. and Sir Francis Drake; also models of light¬ 
houses. 

STOCK EXCHANGE, Capel Court. Re-built 1853 
(Thomas Allason, architect). This, the ready-money market 
of the world, was removed hither in 1802 from Change- 
alley. It stands immediately in front of the Bank of England, 
Capel-court was so called from the London residence and 
place of business of Sir William Capel, ancestor of the Capels, 
Earls of Essex, and Lord Mayor in 1504. The members 
of the Stock Exchange, about 850 in number, consist of 
dealers (called >66ers), broker’s in British and foreign funds, 
railway and other shares exclusively; each member paying 10?. 
yearly. A notipe is posted at every entrance that none but 
members are admitted. A stranger is soon detected, and by 


VIII.—EAST INDIA HOUSE.—DOCKS. 


07 


the custom of the place is made to understand that he is an 
intruder, and turned out. The admission of a member takes 
place in committee, and by ballot. The election is only for 
one year, so that each member has to be re-elected every Lady- 
day. The committee, consisting of thirty, are elected by 
the members at the same time. Every new member of the 
‘‘ house,” as it is called, must be introduced by three members, 
each of whom enters into security in 300^. for two years. 
An applicant for admission who has been a clerk to a 
member for the space of four years has to provide only two 
securities for 250^. for two years. Foreigners must have 
resided five years before eligible for election. A bankrupt 
member immediately ceases to be a member, and cannot be 
re-elected unless he pays 65. 8cZ. in the pound from resources 
of his own. The usual commission charged by a broker is 
one-eighth per cent, upon the stock sold or purchased ; but on 
foreign stocks, railway bonds and shares, it varies according 
to the value of the securities. The broker generally deals 
with the ‘‘jobbei’S,” as they are called, a class of members 
who are dealers or middle men, who remain in the Stock 
Exchange in readiness to act upon the appearance of the 
brokers, but the market is entirely open to all the members, 
The fluctuations of price are produced by sales and pur¬ 
chases, by continental news, domestic politics and finance; 
and sometimes by a fraud or trick like that ascribed to 
Lord Cochrane and others, in 1814, when the members 
were victimised to a large amount. 


The, East India House, Leadenhall Street, was pulled 
down and the materials sold 1861. The private business 
is now carried on in a small office, 1, Moorgate Street. 
The East India Company, the largest and most mag¬ 
nificent company in the world, was first incorporated in 
1600. The government of India by the Company and Court 
of Directors came to an end Sept. 1st, 1858, being trans¬ 
ferred to the Ministers of the Crown, with a council of 
12 members, under a Secretary of State for India. The 
office of the India Board is in the new Public Offices, 
Downing Street. See East India Museum in Index. 


THE DOCKS OF LONDON, viz., St. Katherine’s Docks, 
nearest to London, West India Docks, East India Docks, 
London Docks, Victoria Docks, and Commercial Docks, have 
all been formed since 1800, previous to which time shipping 
in the Port of London bad to discharge their cargoes into 
lighters. All these Docks have been constructed by joint- 
stock companies, and though not unprofitable to their pro- 

F 2 


68 


VIIT.—DOCKS. 


moters, have I’edouiided more to the advantage of the Port 
of London than to that of their projectors. 

WEST INDIA DOCKS (WUliam Jessop, engineer) cover 
295 acres, and lie between Limehouse and Blackwall, on the 
left bank of the Thames. The first stone was laid by William 
Pitt, July 12th, 1800, and the docks opened for business, 
1802. The northern, or Import Dock, is 170 yards long by 
166 wide, and will hold 204 vessels of 300 tons each; and 
the southern, or Expoi’t Dock, is 170 yards long by 135 yards 
wide, and will hold 195 vessels. South of the Export Dock 
is a canal nearly f of a mile long, cutting off the great 
bend of the river, connecting Limehouse Peach with Black- 
wall Reach, and forming the northern boundary of the Isle 
of Dogs. The two docks, with their warehouses, are en¬ 
closed by a lofty wall five feet in thickness, and have held at 
one time 148,563 casks of sugar, 70,875 barrels and 433,648 
bags of coffee, 35,158 pipes of rum and Madeira, 14,021 logs 
of mahogany, and 21,350 tons of logwood. Though they 
retain their old name, they belong to the East and West 
India Dock Company, and are used by every kind of shipping. 
The office of the Company is at No. 8, Billiter-square; and 
the best way of reaching the docks is by the Blackwall 
Railway. The original capital of the Company was 500,000^., 
afterwards raised to 1,200,000Z. The revenues in 1809 
amounted to 330,623Z., and in 1813, when they reached their 
climax, to 449,421?. In 1860, 1200 vessels of 498,366 tons 
discharged in these united docks; the gross earnings were 
404,162?., the nett do. 110,583?. Capital of the East and 
West India Companies, 2 millions. 

EAST INDIA DOCKS, Blackwall, a little lower do'svn 
the river than the West India Docks, and considerably smaller, 
were originally erected for the East India Company, but since 
the opening of the trade to India, the property of the East and 
West India Companies. The first stone was laid March 4th, 
1805, and the docks opened for business Aug. 4th, 1806. The 
number of directors is 13, who must each hold 20 shares in the 
stock of the Company, and 4 of them must be directors of the 
East India Company. This forms the only connexion which 
the East India Company has with the Docks. The possession 
of five shares gives a right of voting. The Import Dock has 
an area of 19 acres, the Export Dock of 10 acres, and the 
Basin of 3, making a total surface of 32 acres. The gates are 
closed at 3 in the winter Inonths, and at 4 in the summer 
months. The mode of admission for visitors is much stricter 
than at any of the other Docks. The best way of reaching the 


VIII.—DOCKS. 


G9- 

Docks is by the Blackwall Railway from Fenchurch-strcet. 
This is the head-quarters of ^Vliite Bait, which may be had 
in the neighbouring Brunswick Tavern. 

ST. KATHERINE’S DOCKS, near the Tower. First stone 
laid May 3rd, 1827, and the Docks publicly opened, Oct. 25th, 
1828; 1250 houses, (nearly a whole parish, in fact,) including 
the old Hospital of St. Katherine, were purchased and pulled 
down, and 11,300 inhabitants removed, in clearing the 
ground for this magnificent undertaking, of which Mr. Tel¬ 
ford was the engineer, Mr. Hardwick the architect, and Sir 
John Hall, the late secretary, the active promoter. The total 
cost was 1,700,000Z. The area of the Docks is about 24 
acres, of which 11^ are water. The lock is sunk so deep that 
ships of 700 tons burden may enter at any time of the tide. 
The warehouses, vaults, sheds, and covered ways will con¬ 
tain 110,000 tons of goods. The gross earnings of the Com¬ 
pany in 1860 were 261,995^., nett, 71,756Z.; and 905 vessels 
entered. Capital 1861, 2,500,000^. The earth excavated at 
St. Katherine’s when the Docks were formed was carried by 
water to Millbank, and employed to fill up the cuts or re¬ 
servoirs of the Chelsea Waterworks Company, on which, 
under Mr. Cubitt’s care, Eccleston-square, and much of the 
south side of Pimlico, has been since erected. In 1863 the 
St. Katherine’s and London Docks amalgamated, and were 
placed under one management. This arrangement is likely 
to be followed by other Docks. 

THE LONDON DOCKS, situated on the left bank of the 
Thames, between St. Katherine’s Docks and Ratcliefe 
Highway. The first and largest dock (John Rennie, engineer) 
was opened, Jan. 30th, 1805. This magnificent establish¬ 
ment comprises an area of 90 acres—34^ acres of water, 
49^ acres of floor in warehouses and sheds, 20 acres of 
vault. There are 20 warehouses, 259 floors in these -ware¬ 
houses, 18 sheds, 17 vaults, and 6 quays, with three 
entrances from the Thames, viz.. Hermitage, 40 feet in width; 
Wapping, 40 feet; and Shadwell, 45 feet. The Western 
Dock comprises 20 acres; the Eastern, 7 acres; and the 
Wapping Basin, 3 acres. The entire structure cost 4,000,000Z. 
of money. In 1858, 2 new locks were made, 60 feet wide, 
and a new basin, 780 feet by 450 feet; Rendall, Engineer. 
The wall alone cost 65,000Z. The walled-in range of dock 
possesses water-room for 302 sail of vessels, exclusive of 
lighters; warehouse-room for 220,000 tons of goods; and 
vault-room for 60,000 pipes of wine. The tobacco warehouse 
alone covers 5 acres. The number of ships entered in 1860 


70 


VIII.—DOCKS. 


was 1032, measuring 424,338 tons. Six weeks are allowed for 
unloading, beyond which period the charge of a farthing per 
ton is made for the first two weeks, and a halfpenny per ton 
afterwards. The business of the Docks is managed by a Court 
of Directors, who sit at the London Dock House, in New 
Bank-buildings. The capital of the shareholders is 5,000,000^. 
As many as 3000 labourers have been employed in these 
docks in one day. 

“ Tlie TobaccoWarehouses are rented by Government at 14,000?. a year. 
Tliey will contain about 24,000 hogsheads, averaging 1200 lb. each, and 
equal to 30,000 tons of general merchandise. Passages and alleys, each 
several hundred feet long, are bordered on both sides by close and com¬ 
pact ranges of hogsheads, with here and there a small space for the 
counting-house of the officers of customs, under whose inspection all the 
arrangements are conducted. Near the north-east comer of the Avare- 
houses is a door inscribed ‘ To the Kiln,’ where damaged tobacco is burnt, 
the long chimney which camies off the smoke being jocularly called ‘ The 
Queen’s Pipe.’”— Knight's London, iii. 76. 

This is the great depot for the stock of wines belonging to 
the AVine Merchants of London. Port is principally kept 
in pipes ; sheny in hogsheads. On the 30th of June, 1849, 
the Dock contained 14,783 pipes of port; 13,107 hogsheads 
of sherry; 64 pipes of French wine; 796 pipes of Cape 
wine; 7607 cases of wine, containing 19,140 dozen; 10,113 
hogsheads of brandy; and 3642 pipes of rum. The total 
of port was 14,783 pipes, 4460 hogsheads, and 3161 quarter 
casks. 

“As you enter the dock, the sight of the foi’est of masts in the distance 
and the tall chimneys vomiting clouds of black smoke, and the many- 
coloured flags flying in the air, has a most peculiar effect; Avhile the 
sheds, with the monster wheels arching through the I’oofs, look like the 
paddle-boxes of huge steamers. Along the quay, you see now men Avith 
their faces blue Avith indigo, and noAv gaugers Avith their long brass- 
tipped rule dripping with spirit from the cask they have been probing; 
then Avill come a gi'oup of flaxen-haired sailors, chattering German; and 
next a black sailor, with a cotton handkerchief twisted turban-like around 
his head. Presently a blue-smocked butcher, with fresh meat and a 
bunch of cabbages in the tray on his shoulder, and shortly afterAvards 
a mate with green parroquets in a Avooden cage. Here you will see, 
sitting on a bench, a sorroAvful-looking woman, Avith new bright cooking 
tins at her feet, telling you she is an emigrant preparing for her voyage. 
As you pass along this quay the air is pungent Avith tobacco; at that it 
overpowers you with the fumes of rum. Then you are nearly sickened 
with the stench of hides and huge bins of boms, and shortly aftenvards 
the atmosphere is fragrant Avith coffee and spice. Nearly eveiyAvhere 
you meet stacks of cork, or else yelloAv bins of sulphur or lead-coloured 
copper ore. As you enter this warehouse, the flooring is sticky, as if it 
had been newly tarred, Avith the sugar that lias leaked through the casks, 
and as you descend into the dark vaults you see long lines of lights 
hanging from the black arches, and lamps flitting about midAvay. Here 
you sniff the fumes of the Avine, and there the peculiar fungous smell of 
dry-rot. Then the jumble of sounds as you pass along the dock blends in 
anything but sweet concord. The sailor,s are singing boisterous nigger 


VIII.—DOCKS. 


71 


songs from the Yankee ship just entering, the cooper is hammering at 
the casks on the quay; the chains of the cranes, loosed of their weight, 
rattle as they fly up again; the ropes splash in the water; some captain 
shouts his orders through his hands; a goat bleats from some ship in 
the basin; and empty casks roll along the stones with a hollow drum¬ 
like sound. Here the heavy-laden ships are down far below the quay, 
and you descend to them by ladders, whilst in another basin they are 
high up out of the water, so that their green copper sheathing is almost 
level with the eye of the passenger, while above his head a long line of 
bowsprits stretch far over the quay, and from them hang spars and 
planks as a gangway to each ship. This immense establishment is 
worked by from one to three thousand hands, according as the business 
is either ‘ brisk ’ or ‘ slack.’ ”—Henry MayUew, Labour and the Poor. 

Mode of Admission .—The basins and shipping are open to 
the public; but to inspect the vaults and warehouses an 
order must be obtained from the Secretary at the London 
Dock House in New Bank-buildings; ladies are not admitted 
after 1 p.m. 

COMMERCIAL DOCKS. Five ample and commodious 
docks on the south side of the river, the property of the Com¬ 
mercial Dock Company, with an entrance from the Thames 
nearly opposite King’s-Arms-stairs in the Isle of Dogs. 
They were opened in 1807. The old Docks intended for 
Greenland ships are enlarged and provided with warehouses 
for bonding foreign corn. Tliey comprise 49 acres, 40 of 
which are water; and are principally used by vessels engaged 
in the Baltic and East Country commerce and importation 
of timber. The removal of the mud deposited in the Docks 
by the steam navigation of the Thames costs the Company, 
on an average, about lOOOZ. a year. 

VICTORIA DOCKS, the newest and perhaps most 
flourishing, on the Essex or left bank of the Thames below 
Blackwall, occupy 200 acres of Plaistow marshes, 8 feet 
below Trinity high-water mark. The largest of 3 pair of 
lock-gates is 80 feet span, entirely of iron, and well worth 
notice. Ships are raised out of the water for repair by a 
hydraulic lift. These Docks were begun 1850, opened 1856 ; 
cost one million ! Capital, one million, rates low. They 
are consequently able to compete with their rivals for the 
trade of London on very advantageous terms. They have 
town warehouses under the arches of the Blackwall Railway, 
at the very gates of the London and St. Katherine’s Docks. 
Large quantities of guano from Peru are housed here. 

The SURREY DOCKS, adjoining the Commercial New 
Docks; entrances and basins ai’e forming by Messrs. Bidder 
at a cost of 100,OOOZ. 


72 VIII.—CORN EXCHANGE—RAILWAY STATIONS. 


CORN EXCHANGE, Mark Lane, Citt, projected and 
opened 1747, enlarged and partly rebuilt in 1827 and 
1828. Market days, Mon., Wed., and Fri. Hours of 
business are from 10 to 3; Monday is the principal day. 
Wheat is paid for in bills at one month, and all other de¬ 
scriptions of corn and grain in bills at two months. The 
Kentish “hoymen” (distinguished by their sailors' jackets) 
have stands'free of expense, and pay less for rentage and 
dues than others. 

COAL EXCHANGE, in Lower Thames Street, nearly 
opposite Billingsgate, established pursuant to 47 Geo. III., 
cap. 68. The building"(J. B. Bunning, arch.,) was opened by 
Prince Albert, 1849. In making the foundations a Roman 
hypocaust was laid open. It has been arched over, and is 
still visible. The interior decorations of the Exchange by 
F. Sang, represent the various species of ferns, palms, and 
other plants found fossilised amid strata of the coal forma¬ 
tion ; the pi’incipal colliei’ies and mouths of the shafts; 
portraits of men who have rendered service to the trade; 
colliers’ tackle, implements, &c. The floor is laid in the 
fonn of the maiincr’s compass, and consists of upwards of 
40,000 pieces of wood. The black oak portions were taken 
from the bed of the Tyne, and the mulbeny wood introduced 
as the blade of the dagger in the City shield was taken from 
a tree said to have been planted by Peter the Great when 
working in this country as a shipwright. In 1866 the coal 
supplied to London alone amounted to nearly 6,000,000 
tons—of which 3|- tons sea-borne, 2^ rail-borne. Some of the 
largest gas companies consume 100,000 tons, and there are 
brewers and sugar refiners who use from 5000 to 10,000 tons 
yearly. The Museum is open the 1st Monday of every 
month, 12 to 4. 20,000 seamen are employed in the cany- 

ing department alone of the London Coal Trade. 

RAILWAY STATIONS.—1. LONDON AND NORTH 
WESTERN, Eeston Square, approached by a Grecian 
Doric gateway, occupies 12 acres, and the neighbouring 
depOt at Camden Hill, 30 acres. The two cost £800,000. The 
great Hall (opened May, 1849), was built from the designs of 
P. C. Hardwick, engineer of the line. In it is placed a 
statue of the late Robert Stephenson. The bas-reliefs of 
London, Liverpool, Manchester, &c., are by John Thomas. 
Close at hand are the Euston and Victoria Hotels. 

2. The LONDON BRIDGE STATION is the outlet for nu¬ 
merous Companies,—Brighton, Dover (South Eastern), Crystal 
Palace, Greenwich, Mid Kent, North Kent, and is a more won- 


VITI.—RAILWAY STATIOKS. 


V3 


derful sight, from the complication of its rails, than any other 
station in London. 

3. The stations at King’s Cross, in the Kew-road, of the 
GREAT NORTHERN RAILWAY (opened in 1852). 

4. GREAT AVESTERN RAILAVAY (completed 1856 ), 
with their vast hotels ; are of equal extent with the London 
and North Western, and are grand architectural construc¬ 
tions. 

6. LONDON, CHATHAM, AND DOVER TERMINI, 
Ludgate Hill and Victoria Station, Pimlico. 

6. MIDLAND RAILWAY.—Between the Great Northern 
and London and North-AVestern Stations. The goods station, 
at Agar Town, occupies 50 acres, cleared of houses to make 
room for it. Here are the w’arehouses for Bass & Co., Burton 
Ale brewers. 

7. VICTORIA STATION, Victoria Road, Pimlico, 
finished 1861, occupies in part the site of the Grosvenor 
Canal and Basin. It opens out a communication from the 
west end of London to the Railways leading to : a. Brighton, 
Dover, Croydon, Crystal Palace; h. Chatham and Dover; 
c. Great AA^estern Railway. It covers nearly 12 acres. 

8. CHARING CROSS STATION, on the site of Hunger- 
ford Market, for the S. E. Counties, Brighton, Folkestone, 
and Dover Lines, and Greenwich. Continental mail-trains 
twice a day. Baggage may be booked through to Paris. 
This railway is connected with the City at Cannon-street, 
crossing the Thames by a bridge above London Bridge. 
The upper part of the edifice is a colossal Hotel. In front 
of it rises a stone Cross, an elegant reproduction, as far as 
possible, of that which once stood at Charing Cross, dedi¬ 
cated to Queen Eleanor. (E. Barry, Arch.) 

9. GREAT EASTERN RAILAVAY STATION.—Shore¬ 
ditch to Cambridge, Colchester, Norwich, Yarmouth, Peter¬ 
borough, to be extended to Broad-street. 

10. CANNON STREET TERMINUS of the South-Eastern 
Railway, on the left bank of the Thames, accessible by an 
iron railway bridge over the river, is a vast structure; its 
shed is 280 ft. span. It occupies the site of the venerable 
Steelyard, or Hall, of the Hansa, 1250—1550. Here also 
a grand Hotel and City Dining Rooms have been opened. 

11. NORTH LONDON and LONDON and NORTH¬ 
WESTERN CITY TERMINUS, Broad-street and Liver- 
pool-street, Finsbury-circus, leads to Dalston and Camden 
Town Stations. {See London Railways.) 


74 


IX.—METROPOLITAN CATTLE MARKET. 


lX.-MARKETS. 

METROPOLITAN CATTLE MARKET, Copenhagen 
Fields (between Islington and Camden Town)—the modern 
Smithfield—tlie live-stock and meat market of London— 
erected 1854-5, after a long parliamentary struggle with the 
Corporation of London, and publicly opened by Prince Albert, 
13th June, 1855. Architect, Mr. Running. The market 
occupies 30 acres, and is said to have cost 440,000^. 15 acres 
are enclosed, furnishing room for 7,600 bullocks, 40,000 
sheep, 1,400 calves, and 900 pigs; there is also lairage or 
covered sheds for bullocks and sheep. In the centre rises a 
clock tower—a station of the Electric Telegraph Co. Round 
its base are banking-houses for the convenience of dealers. 
There are 8 slaughter houses, 2 of which are public. Thei-e 
are 34 more acres available for the extension of the market. 
The number of cattle, sheep, and pigs, sold in one year 
in this market is estimated at 4,000,000. About one-sixth of 
all the oxen come from Denmark, which receives for them 
500,000Z. a-year. The City takes a toll upon every beast 
exposed to sale of Ic?. per head, and of sheep at 2c?. per score, 
and for every pen Is. 

Salesmen estimate the weight of cattle by the eye, and, 
from constant practice, ai’e seldom out more than a few 
pounds. The sales are always for cash. No paper is passed, 
but when the bargain is struck, the buyer and seller shake 
hands and close the sale. Several millions are annually paid 
away in this manner. The average weekly sale of beasts is 
about 3000; and of sheep about 30,000, increased in the 
Christmas w'eek to about 5000 beasts, and 50,000 sheep. 

The Agricultural Hall, Islington Green, a capacious 
building, covering nearly three acres, between Liverpool- 
road and Islington Green. An Italian fa 9 ade, of brick, with 
two towers. The main hall, 384 by 217 ft., covered with a 
glass roof supported on iron columns. More than 8000 tons 
of iron w’ere used in its construction. Architect, — Peck, of 
Maidstone. Date, 1861. Cost, 40,000?. Here are held at 
Christmas, the Agricultural Show, exhibitions of Cattle of 
the Smithfield Club. 

Old Smithfield Market was an irregular open area of 
5| acres, surrounded by bone-houses, catgut manufactories, 
public-houses, and knackers’ yards. The name would seem to 
have been oi’iginally Smoothfield, campus planus.” 

“ Falstaff. Where’s Bardolph? 

“ Page. He’s gone into Smithfield to huy your worship a horse. 


IX.—SMITHFIELD AND BILLINGSGATE MARKETS. 75 


Falstaff . I bought him in Paul’s, and he’ll buy me a horse iu 
Smithfield: an I could get me but a Avife iu the Stews, I Avere manned, 
horsed, and AviA'ed.”— Shakespeare , 27 id Fart of Henry IV ., Act i., sc. 2. 

Smithfield is famous for its jousts, tournaments, executions, 
and burnings. Here Wallace and the gentle Mortimer were 
executed. Here, Sir William Walworth slew Wat Tyler, 
June, 1381 ; the King standing near St. Bartholomew’s Priory, 
and the Commons towards the west in form of battle. The 
stake, at which so many of the Marian martyrs died, was fixed 
immediately opposite the church of St. Bartholomew the 
Great {see Sect. xiv). In March, 1849, during excavations 
necessary for a new sewer, and at a depth of 3 ft. below the 
surface, immediately opposite the entrance to the church of 
St. Bartholomew the Great, the workmen laid open a mass 
of unhewn stones, blackened as if by fire, and covered with 
ashes, and human bones charred and partially consumed. 
This is supposed to have been the spot generallj’^ used for the 
Smithfield burnings—the face of the sufferer being turned to 
the east and to the great gate of St. Bartholomew, the prior 
of which was generally present on such occasions. Many 
bones were carried away as relics. The spot should be 
marked by an appropriate monument. 

Here too, from September 3rd to 6tb, was held the far- 
famed Bartholomew Fair, once one of the leading fairs in 
England, established by a grant from Henry II. to the Black 
Canons of St. Bartholomew, but for a century and more 
(until its abolition in 1851) only a nuisance. 

A Hew Metropolitan Meat Market, on the site of Old 
Smithfield, was begun 1862, after much opposition from the 
Corporation, and is slowly coming to a completion (architect, 
H. Jones). The building will bo 625 ft. long, by 240 wide, 
and 30 ft. high, intersected by cross avenues. It will have 
subterranean communication by tramways with the Cattle 
Market in Copenhagen Fields, and the chief Kailway Stations. 
It will cost 180,000/. 

BILLINGSGATE, the great fish-market of London (of red 
brick, with stone dressings,) lies a little below London Bndge 
on the left bank of the Thames (Mr. Banning, architect). 
Queen Elizabeth appointed “this open place for the landing 
and bringing in of any fish, com, salt, stores, victuals, and 
fruit (grocery ware excepted), and for the carrying foi’th of 
the same, or the like, and for no other merchandizes.” In 
the reign of William III., 1699, it was made “ a free and open 
market for all sorts of fish.” It is now regulated pursuant 
to 9 & 10 Viet. c. 346. 


76 


IX.—COVENT GARDEN MARKET. 


“How this gate took that name, or of what antiquity the same is, 
I must leave uncertain, as not having read any ancient record thereof, 
more than that Geffrey Monmouth writeth, that Belin, a king of the 
Britons, about four hundred years before Christ’s Nativity, built this 
gate, and named it Belin’s gate, after his own calling; and that when he 
was dead, his body being burnt, the ashea in a vessel of brass were set 
upon a high pinnacle of stone over the same gate. It seemeth to me not 
to be so ancient, but rather to have taken that name of some later owner 
of the place, happily named Beling or Biling, as Somer’s key. Smart’s 
key. Frost wharf, and others thereby, took their names of their 
owners."—Stow, p. 17. 

The coarse language of the place has long been famous :— 

There stript, fair Rhetoric languish’d on the ground; 

Ilis blunted arms by Sophistry are borne. 

And shameless Billingsgate her robes adorn.” 

Pope, The Dunciad, B. iv. 

One may term Billingsgate,” says old Fuller, “ the Esculiue 
gate of London.” 

The market opens at 5 o’clock throughout the year. All 
fish are sold by the tale except salmon, which is sold by 
weight, and oysters and shell-fish, which are sold by measure. 
The salmon imports are from Scotland and Ireland, and from 
Holland, and the north of Europe. The best cod is brought 
from the Dogger-bank, and the greater number of the lobsters 
from Norway. The eels are chiefly from Holland. The 
oyster season commences 4 th August. Many attempts have 
been made to estimate the value of the fish sold or consumed 
in London. The consumption is less than the sale, the 
opening of railways having made London the fish-market 
of at least half of England, Salmon is sent in boxes on com¬ 
mission to agents, who charge 5 per cent, and take the risk of 
bad debts. This business is in few hands, and those en¬ 
gaged in it are the most wealthy of all dealers in fish. 

Here every day (at 1 and 4), at the “ Three Tuns Tavern,” 
a capital dinner may be had for Is. 6d,, including three kinds 
of fish, joints, steaks, and bread and cheese. 

CO VENT GARDEN MARKET, the great fruit, vegetab le 
and herb market of London, originated (circ. 1656) in a few 
temporary stalls and sheds at the back of the garden wall of 
Bedford-house on the south side of the square. The present 
Market-place (William Fowler, architect) was erected (1830) 
by the Duke of Bedford. The market is rated (1849) to the 
poor at 4800?., rather under the amount derived from the 
rental and the tolls. The stranger in London who wishes to 
see what Covent-garden Market is like, should visit it on a 
Tuesday, Thursday, or Saturday morning in summer, between 
3 and 7 o’clock. To see the supply of fniit and vegetables 
carted off, 7 a.m. is early enough. To enj oy the sight and 


IX.—MARKETS.—TATTERSALL’s. 


77 


smell of flowers and fruit, the finest in the world, any time 
from 10 A.M. to 4 or 5 p.m. will answer. A flower marlcet, 
covered with glass after the fashion of the Crystal Palace, 
was built 1859, on the S. side of the Opera House. En¬ 
trance from Covent Garden and from Bow Street. 

NEWGATE MARKET, between Newgate-street and 
Paternoster-row, the great carcase-market of London, 
originally a meal market. It is much frequented, and grew 
into reputation from the time when the stalls and sheds were 
removed from Butcher-hall-lane and the localities adjoining 
the now destroyed church of St. Nicholas Shambles. The 
West End carcase butchers come to this market for almost 
all their meat; and Newgate-street, on a market morning, has 
not been inaptly likened to one continuous butcher’s tray. 

LEADENHALL MARKET, Gracechurch-street, for but¬ 
chers’ meat, fish, poultry, vegetables, leather, hides, bacon, &c. 
The manor-house of Leadenhall, which gave the name to the 
market, belonged (1309) to Sir Hugh Neville, knight, and 
was converted into a granary for the City by Simon Eyre, 
draper, and Mayor of London, in 1445. It appears to have 
been a large building and covered with lead, then an unusual 
roofing on halls and houses. The market escaped the Great 
Fire of 1666. 

“ Would’st thou with mighty beef augment thy meal, 

Seek Leadenhall.”— Gay, Trivia, 

Leadenhall is no longer celebrated for its beef, but is de¬ 
servedly esteemed as the largest and best poultry market in 
London. 

Farringdon Market is a general market for butchers’ 
meat, fish, poultry, vegetables, and fruit. It is the great 
_ water-cress market of London. 

The greatest number of horses are sold at Tattersall’s, in 
Knightsbridge Green, near the end of Sloane-street, formerly 
in Grosvenor-place, a handsome structure, including ranges 
of stables of the best construction, lofty and airy, with court 
under glass roofs, accommodating 300 or 400 horses. This 
mart was called after Richard Tattersall (d. 1795), originally a 
training groom to the last Duke of Kingston, who laid the 
foundation of his fortune by the purchase, for 2500Z., of the 
celebrated horse “ Highflyer.” All horses for sale must be 
sent on the Friday before the day of sale. The days of sale 
are Mondays throughout the year, and Thursdays in the 
height of the season. Here is a subscription-room, under the 
revision of the Jockey Club (who have rooms in Old Bond 


78 


IX.—TATTERSALL’s. X.—BREWERIES. 


street), and attended by all the patrons of the turf, from 
noblemen down to stable-keepers. Days of meeting, Monday 
and Thureday throughout the year. Settling days, Tuesday 
after the Derby, Monday after the St. Leger. It is necessary 
to have an introduction from a subscriber. Annual sub¬ 
scription, 2^. 2s. The number of members is stated to be 
between three and four hundred. The betting at Tattersall’s 
regulates the betting throughout the country. 


X.-BREWERIES. 

Among the many curiosities to be seen in London few 
will be found more interesting to the agriculturist than 
a visit to one or other of the great breweries. The fol¬ 
lowing statement of the malt used by the most eminent 


Ijondon brewers in one year-, is supposed to be an average 
of the consumption for some years past;— 

Qrs. 

Barclay, Perkins, and Co., Park-street, Southwark . . 127,000 

Truman, Ilanbury, Buxton, and Co., Brick-lane, Spitalfields. 140,000 

Meux and Co., Tottenham Court Road.59,617 

Reid and Co., Liquorpond-street, Gray’s Inn-lane . . . 56,640 
Whitbread and Co., Chiswell-st., Old-street-road, St. Luke’s 51,800 
Combe and Co., Castle-street, Long Acre .... 43,282 
Late Calvert and Co., 89, Upper Thames-street. . . . 29,630 

Mann and Co., 172, Whitechapel-road. 24,030 

Charrington and Co., Mile-end-road. 22,023 

Thorn and Co., Horse ferry-road, Millbank .... 21,016 
Taylor and Co., Holloway .15,870 


At Barclay’s (the largest, extending over 11 acres) 600 quar¬ 
ters of malt are brewed daily. Among the many vats, one 
is pointed out containing 3500 barrels of porter, which, at 
the selling price, woidd yield 9000Z. The water used is 
drawn from a well 367 feet deep ; 180 horses are employed 
in the cartage of beer, &c. They are brought principally 
from Flanders, cost from 501. to 80^. each, and are noble 
specimens of the cart-horse breed. There are four partners 
in Barclay’s house, who conduct every department of it in 
the most libei’al manner. Their head brewer has a salary of 
lOOOZ. a year. The founder of the firm was Henry Thrale, 
the friend of Dr. Johnson, whose house stands in Park-street 
(once Deadmau’s-place). The business, at Thrale’s deatli, 
was sold by Johnson and his brother executor, in behalf of 
Mrs. Thrale, to Messrs. Barclay, Perkins, and Co., for 135,000/. 
“ We are not hei'e,'” said Johnson on the day of sale, “ to sell 
a pai’cel of boilers and vats, but tliQ potentiality of growing 
rich beyond the dreams of avarice.” Robert Barclay, the 
fir.st of the name in the firm (d. 1831), was a descendant of 



XI.—WATER COMPANIES. 


79 


the f\imous Barclay who wrote the Apology for the Quakers, 
and Perkins was the chief clerk on Thrale’s establishment. 
While on his tour to the Hebrides, in 1773, Johnson men¬ 
tioned that Thrale “ paid 20,000^. a year to the revenue, and 
that he had four vats, each of which held 1600 barrels, above 
a thousand hogsheads.” The amount at present paid to 
the revenue by the firm is nine times 20,000^. 

The visitor should exert his influence among his friends to 
obtain an order of admission to any one of the larger Brew¬ 
eries. Foreigners wearing moustaches had better abstain 
altogether, remembering the disgraceful treatment which an 
Austrian officer received in one of these establishments. The 
best London porter and stout in draught is to be had at the 
Cock Tavern, 201, Fleet-street, and at the Rainbow Tavern, 
15, Fleet-street, immediately opposite. Judges of ale recom¬ 
mend John O’Groat’s, 61, Rupert-street, Haymarket; and 
the Edinburgh Castle, 322, Strand. 


XI.-WATER COMPANIES. 

The cities of London and Westminster, and the borough 
of Southwark, and certain parishes and places adjacent 
thereto, are at present supplied with water by nine Com¬ 
panies, who exercise absolute and irresponsible discretion in 
the quality, price, and quantity, of the article they. sell. 
These Companies are :— New River Company ; East Lon¬ 
don Water Works Company; Southwark and Vauxhall 
Water Company; West Middlesex Water Works Com¬ 
pany ; Lambeth Water Works Company ; Chelsea Water 
Works Company; Grand Junction Water Works Com¬ 
pany; Kent Water Works Company; Hampstead Water 
Works Company. 

The daily supply is nearly 46 millions of gallons per 
day, of which 20 millions are from the Thames, and 26 
millions from the New River and other sources. This supply 
is equal, it is said, to a river 9 feet wide and 3 feet deep, 
running at two miles an hour. The City is entirely supplied 
from the New River and the River Lea; not by the Thames. 
The nine companies supply 271,795 tenements; the New 
River supplying 83,206 of that number. ’ 

The Thames has hitherto been at once our cistern and our 
cesspool; but this great disgrace is in some degree remedied, 
as far as supply is concerned by an Act j^assed in 1852 direct¬ 
ing that on and after 31st of August, 1855, no companies, 
except the Chelsea Company, shall take water from any part 



80 


XII.—MAIN DRAINAGE.—SEWERAGE. 


of the Thames below Teddingfcon Lock. The new system 
of Main Drainage (1859-63) will, it is hoped, relieve the 
Thames from the second reproach of foulness. 

The NEW RIVEE is an artificial stream, 38 miles in length, 
about 18 feet wide and 4 feet deep, projected 1608-9, and com¬ 
pleted 1620, by Sir Hugh Myddelton, a native of Denbigh, in 
Wales, and a member of the Goldsmiths’ Company, for the pur¬ 
pose of supplying the City of London with water. Neai’ly 
ruined by his scheme, Myddelton parted "with his interest in it 
to a company, called the New River Company, in whose hands 
it still remains, reserving to himself and his heirs for ever an 
annuity of lOOZ. per annum. This annuity ceased to be 
claimed about the year 1715. The river has its rise at 
Chadwell Springs, situated in meadows, midway between 
Hertford and Ware, runs for several miles parallel wth the 
river Lea, from which it borrows water at Ware, and at last 
empties itself into 83,206 tenements, and down the throats of 
800,000 persons, having run a very circuitous course from 
its source to London. The principal spring, marked by a 
stone erected by the Company, is now a spacious basin 
with an islet, containing a monument to Myddelton, 
erected, in 1800, by Mylne, the architect and engineer. The 
dividend for the year 1633, which is believ^ed to have been 
the first, was 15Z. 3s. 3cZ. A single share bequeathed by 
Myddelton to the Goldsmiths’ Company, for charitable pur¬ 
poses, produces 900Z. a year. The main of the New River at 
Islington was, it is said, shut down at the time of the Great 
Fire of London in 1666; and it was believed by some, who 
pretended to the means of knowing, that the supply of water 
had been stopped by Captain John Graunt, a papist. The 
story, however, it is reasonable to think, was a mere pai’ty 
invention of those heated times. One of the figm’es in 
Tempest’s Cries of London, executed and published in the 
reign of James II., carries “New River Water.” 


Xll.-MAIN DRAlNAGE.-SEWERAGE. 

A new system of Main Drainage for London was 
decided on in 1858, and begun 1859, by the Metropolitan 
Board of Works, the object being to divert the impurities 
of the great City from the Thames, into which they 
had hitherto been discharged. A series of lai-ge sewei’s, in 
fact, tunnels, carried under streets and buildings, whose 
aggregate length amounts to 85 miles, have been constructed 



XIII.—TOWER OF LONDON. 


81 


on either side of the Thames, at right angles with the old 
sewers and a little below their levels, so as to intercept the 
sewage, and prevent its polluting the river in its passage 
through London. They discharge themselves by a general 
outfall channel at Barking Creek on the left bank of the 
Thames, and at Crossness, near Plumstead, on the right. 
The greater part of the sewage is carried away along with 
the rainfall by gravitation; but the sewage of the low levels 
requires to be pumped up by steam-engines into the out¬ 
fall channels, and is previously subjected to a process of 
deodorising. The cost of executing this extensive design is 
4,100,000Z.! On the S. side of the Thames the high level 
channels (10 miles long) begin at Clapham, the low level (11 
miles) at Putney, both uniting at Deptford Creek ; thence 
proceeding to Erith, 7 miles. On the N. or City side of the 
Thames, three systems of sewers, beginning at Hampstead, 
Kilburn, and the river embankment, meet together on the 
river Lea. The works at Bow Creek, below Blackwall, in 
bridges, aqueducts, culverts, and conduits, are on the most 
stupendous scale. The ordinary daily amount of London 
sewage thus discharged into the River Thames on the H. 
side has been calculated at 10,000,000 cubic feet, and on 
the south side 4,000,000 cubic feet. Formerly the sewers 
emptied themselves into the Thames at various levels. AVhen 
the tide rose above the orifices of these sewers, the whole 
drainage of the district was stopped until the tide receded 
again, rendering the w'hole river side system of sewers in 
Kent and Surrey a succession of cesspools. Now their con¬ 
tents are received in reservoirs at the river bank, which are 
discharged into the river about the time of high water, thus 
i)oth diluting the sewage and carrying it down by the ebb to 
a point 26 miles below London Bridge. The North low 
level sewer being finished, the w'hole sewage of London is 
diverted away from the Thames into this gigantic cloaca 
maxima. The engineer of the Main Drainage is Mr. Bazalgette. 


Xlll.-TOWER OF LONDON. 

TOWER OF LONDON, the most celebrated fortress in 
Gi’eat Britain, stands immediately without the ancient City 
walls, on the left or Middlesex bank of the Thames, and 
‘‘below bridge,” between the Custom-House and St. Kathe¬ 
rine Docks. 

"This Tower,” says Stow, “is a citadel to defend or command the 
City a royal palace a prison of state for the most dangerous offenders 

a 



82 


XIII.—TOWER OF LONDON. 


the armoury for warlike provisions; the treasury of the ornaments and 
jewels of the Crown; and general conserver of most of the records of 
the King’s courts of justice at Westminster.”—(Stow, p. 23. 

Tradition has carried its erection many centuries earlier than 
our records warrant, attributiug its foundation to Julius 
Ctesar:— 


“ Prince. Where shall we sojourn till our coronation ? 

“ Gloster. Where it seems best unto your royal self. 

If I may counsel you, some day or two 
Your highness will repose you at the Tower. 

“ Prince. I do not like the Tower, of any place.— 

Did Julius Caesar build that place, my lord ? 

“ Buck. He did, my gracious lord, begin that place. 

Which since succeeding ages have re-edified. 

“ Prince. Is it upon record, or else reported 
Successively from age to age, he built it ? 

“ Buck, Upon record, my gracious lord.” 

Shakspeare, King Bichard III., Act iii., sc. 1. 

‘ This is the way 

To Julius Caesar’s ill-erected Tower.” 

Shakspeare, King Richard II., Act v., sc. 

“ Ye towers of Julius, London’s lasting shame, 

With many a foul and midnight murder fed.” 

Gray, The Bard. 

TLe Government of the Tower has been entrusted since the 
days of the Conqueror to a high oflScer called the Constable. 
That office was filled by the Duke of Wellington, and is 
now by Gen. Sir John Burgoyne. The Lieut.-Governor is Col. 
Lord de Ros, author of “ Historical Memorials of the Tower,” 
1866-67. 

The Tower is entered from the side of Tower Hill by the 
Lions’ Gate, on the W. side, where the lions and IGng’S 
beasts were formerly kept. Here tickets are distributed— 
for the Armoury and White Tower, Qd .; and for the Crown 
jewels, 6cf. each person. Admission from 10 to 4. 

Strangers are conducted over the Tower by the Warders, 
whose places were formerly bought; but who are now all old 
soldiers, appointed on account of good services. They con¬ 
duct visitoi’s in parties of 12. 

Passing under two Gothic gateways through the Middle 
and Byward Towers, and over the broad and deep moat 
surrounding the fortress, once an eyesore and unwholesome, 
now drained and kept as a garden, though still capable of 
being flooded at high water, we enter the Outer Bail, and 
perceive before us the wall of the Inner Bail, 30 to 40 ft. high, 
surmounted by towers at intervals. At the S.W. angle rises 
the Bell Toxeer, forming part of the Governor’s house, while, 


XIII.—TOWER OF LONDON. 


83 


rt., iu the line of the outer rampart is St. Thomas Tower, 
and the Traitor's Gate, opening to the river beneath a fine 
wide arch, well restored and rebuilt in 1866, by Salvin. The 
Traitor’s Gate— 

“ That gate misnamed, through which before 
Went Sidney, Russell, Raleigh, Cranmer, More.” 

Rogers's Human Life. 

is so called because prisoners, brought by water, -were ad¬ 
mitted by it. It is now closed. Nearly opposite to it rises 
the Bloody Tower, gloomy and ominous name, so called, 
because within it took place the murder of the princes, 
Edward V. and Duke of York, sons of Edward IV., by order of 
Richard III., described by the Duke of Wellington as “the only 
place of security in which prisoners of State can be placed.” 

Passing beneath the portcullis which still hangs above 
the gateway of the Bloody Tower, you enter the Inner Bail. 
In the corner of the square, on the left, is the Governor’s 
lodgings in the Bell Tower (mentioned above, and not shown 
to the public). They contain the Council Chamber, in which 
Guy Fawkes was examined by the Lords and King James, 
with application of torture ; also the Romish pidests who were 
accomplices in the Powder plot. This event is commemorated 
by a curious monument, of parti-coloured marbles, and with 
inscriptions in Latin and Hebrew. In another part of this 
building is an inscription carved on an old mantel-piece re¬ 
lating to the Countess of Lenox, grandmother of James the 
First, “ commitede prysner to thys Logynge for the Marige 
of her Sonne, my Lord Henry Darnle and the Queene of 
Scotlande.” The Bell Tower was the prison of Queen 
Elizabeth, of Fisher, bishop of Rochester, and probably of 
Lord Nithsdale, w’hose escape thence was so wonderfully 
effected by his heroic wife.* 

The oldest portion existing of the Tower is the isolated square 
Keep, or Donjon in the centre, called the White Toioer, built 
by William the Conqueror (circ. 1178), Guudulph, bishop of 
liochester, being architect. It was re-faced and the windows 
modernised by Wren, but within it is nearly unaltered. A 
winding stair at the corner, at the foot of which the bones 
of “ the murdered princes ” were found, leads to the Chapel 
of St. John, long used, as well as the other chambers, to hold 
Records ,* now laid open. It is one of the best preserved 
and oldest specimens of Early Norman style in Britain; 
plain and massive piers supporting round arches and a barrel 
vault. The E. end is an apse, and round it and the aisles 

* See Lord De Ros’ “ Memorials of the Tower,” 1866. 

Q 2 


84 


XIII.—TOWER OF LONDON. 


runs a triforium gallery, in which the royal family may 
have heard mass. The Banqueting Hall and Council Cham¬ 
ber adjoining, have flat timber roofs supported on stout 
joists. They are now filled with 60,000 stand of rifles, kept 
in the most perfect order, and beautifully arranged. 

The Beauchamp Toicer, on the W. side, carefully restored in 
1853 by Mr. Salvin, was the place of imprisonment of Anna 
Boleyn and Lady Jane Grey, whose name appears cut on 
the IST. wall, which is scratched over with inscriptions by 
prisoners confined within it. It derives its name from 
Thomas de Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, imprisoned in it in 
1397;—the Develin Tower; the Bowyer Tower, on the N. 
side, where the Duke of Clarence, it is traditionally believed, 
was drowned in a butt of Malmsey; the Martin Tower, 
near the Jewel House; and the Salt Tower, on the E. 
side, containing a curious sphei’e, with the signs of the 
zodiac, &c., engraved on the walls. May 30th, 1561, by Hugh 
Draper, of Bristol, committed to the Tower in 1560, on 
suspicion of sorceiy and practice against Sir William St. 
Lowe and his lady. 

The Horse Armoury is contained in a gallery 150 ft. long by 
33 ft. wide, built in 1826 on the south side of the White 
Tower. The general assignment of the suits and arrange¬ 
ment of the gallery were made by the late Sir Samuel 
Meyrick, author of A Critical Inquiry into Ancient Armour, 
and by Mr. Hewitt the present intelligent custos. The 
centre is occupied by a line of equestrian figures, 22 in 
number, clothed in the armour of vai’ious reigns, from the 
time of Edward I. to James 11. (1272—1688). Each suit 
is assigned, for the sake of chronology, to some king or 
knight, but none are known to have been worn by the 
persons to whom they are assigned, except in a very few in¬ 
stances (such as Henry VIII.; Dudley, Earl of Leicester ; 
Henry, Prince of Wales; and Charles I.). Observe .—Suit of 
the time of Edward 1. (1272—1307), consisting of a hauberk 
with sleeves and chausses, and hood with camail and prick- 
spurs ; the emblazoned surcoat and baudric are modern. Suit 
of the time of Henry VI. (1422—1461); the back and breast¬ 
plates are flexible, the sleeves and skirt of chain mail, 
the gauntlets fluted, the helmet a salade armed with a 
frontlet and surmounted by a crest. Suit of the time of 
Edward IV. (1461—1483); the vamplate or guard of the 
tilting-lance is ancient, the war-saddle is of later date. Suit 
of ribbed armour of the time of Richard III. (1483—1485), 
worn by the Marquis of Waterford at the Eglinton Tourna¬ 
ment. Suit of fluted armour, of German fabric, of the time 



GROUND PLAN OF THE TOWER. 


A Lion Tower. 

B Middle Tower, 

C Bell Tower. 

D Lieutenant’s Lodgings. . 
E Bloody Tower. . 

F F-ntrance to Armouries. 
G Salt Tower. 


H Brick Tower, 

I Bowyer Tower,—Duke of Clarence murdered in. 
K Beauchamp Tower,—Prison of Anna Boleyn i nd 
Lady Jane Grey. 

L Entrance Gate. 

M Site of the Scaffold. 


Site of Scaffold. 
TOWER HILL. 












86 


XIII.—TOWER OF LONDON. 


of Henry VII. (1485—1509), the knight dismounted; the 
helmet is called a burgonet, and was invented by the Bui-- 
gundians. Suit of fluted armour of the same reign; the 
armour of the horse is complete all but the flanchards. 
Suit of damasked armour, known to have been worn by 
Henry VIII. (1509—1547); the stirrups are curious from 
their great size. Two suits of the same reign, called Charles 
Brandon, Duke of Sufiblk, and Edward Clinton, Earl of 
Lincoln. Grand suit for man and horse in central recess 
(behind you) of German workmanship, very fine, and origin¬ 
ally gilt, made to commemorate the union of Henry VIII. and 
Katherine of Aragon. The badges of this king and queen, the 
rose and pomegranate, are engraved on various parts 'of the 
armour. On the fans of the genouilleres is the Sheaf of 
Arrows, the device adopted by Ferdinand, the father of 
Katherine, on his conquest of Granada. Henry’s badges, the 
Portcullis, the Fleur-de-lys, and the Bed Dragon, also appear; 
and on the edge of the lamboys or skirts are the initials of the 
royal pair, “ H.K.,” united by a true-lover’s knot. Observe, 
very curious scenes of martyrdoms of Saints engraved on the 
armour of the horse. This is supposed to have been a present 
from the Emperor Maximilian to Henry. Suit of the time 
of Edward VI. (1547—1553), embossed and embellished with 
the badges of Burgundy and Granada, and formerly ex¬ 
hibited as the suit of Edward the Black Prince. Suit assigned 
to Francis Hastings, Earl of Huntingdon (1555). Suit actually 
worn by Eobert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, of the time of 
Queen Elizabeth; the Earl’s initials, K. D,, are engraved on 
the genouilleres, and his cognizance of the Bear and Ragged 
Staff on the chanfron of the horse. Suit assigned to Sir 
Henry Lea (1570), and formerly exhibited as the suit of 
Wilham the Conqueror. Suit assigned to Robert Devereux, 
Earl of Essex (1581), and worn by the King’s champion 
at the coronation of Geoi’ge II. Suit of the time of James I., 
formerly shown as the suit of Henry IV. Suits assigned to 
Sir Horace Vere and Thomas, Earl of Ainindel, of the time of 
James I. Suit made for Henry, Prince of Wales, eldest 
son of James I., richly gilt, and engraved with battles, 
sieges, &c. Suit assigned to George Villiers, Duke of Buck¬ 
ingham, the favourite of James I. Suit made for Charles I. 
when Prince of Wales. Suit assigned to Wentwoi’th, Earl of 
Strafford. Richly gilt suit presented to Charles I., when 
Prince of Wales; this suit was laid on the coffin of the gi’eat 
Duke of Marlborough at his first interment in Westminster 
Abbey; the face of the king was carved by Grinling Gibbons. 
Suit, with burgonet, assigned to Monk, Duke of Albemarle. 


XIII.—QUEEN ELIZABETH’S ARMOURY. 


87 


Suit assigned to James II., but evidently of William Ill’s 
reign, from the W.R. engraved on several parts of it; the 
face was carved by Grinling Gibbons for Charles II. Observe, 
in other parts of the gallery, and in the cabinets, (ask the 
warder to show them to you,) suit of the time of Henry VIII., 
formerly exhibited as John of Gaunt’s. Suit, “ rough from 
the hammer,” said in the old inventories to have belonged to 
Henry VIII. Asiatic suit (platform, north side) from Tong 
Castle, in Shropshire, probably of the age of the Crusades, 
and the oldest armour in the Tower collection. ‘‘ Anticke 
head-piece,” with ram’s horns and spectacles on it, assigned 
in the old inventories to Will Somers, Henry VIII.’s jester, 
and probably worn by him. Ancient warder’s horn of carved 
ivory. Helmet, belt, straight sword, and scimitars of Tippoo 
Saib. Maltese cannon (of exquisite workmanship, “ Philip 
Lattarellus, delin. et sculp. 1773 ”) taken by the French in 
1798, and, while on its passage from Malta to Paris, captured 
by Captam Foote, of the Seahorse frigate; the barrel is 
covered with figures in alto relievo ; in one pai-t is the poi-tmit 
of the Grand Master of Malta; the centre of each wheel 
represents the sun. 

Omen Elizabeth's Armoury is entered from the Horse 
Armoury by a staircase, and antechamber filled with Oriental 
arms, weapons taken in the Indian campaigns from the Sikhs, 
Burmese, and Chinese, and a suit of armour, sent to Charles II. 
by the Great Mogul. This interesting room (barbarously 
cased with wood in the Norman style) is within the White 
Tower; and the visitor would do well to examine the thick¬ 
ness of the walls (14 ft. thick), and to enter the cell, dark and 
small, the prison of Sir Walter Raleigh. On your left (as you 
enter it) are three inscriptions rudely carved in the stone 
by prisoners, in the reign of Queen Mary, concerned in the 
plot of Sir Thomas Wyatt. 

“ He that indvreth to the exde shall be savid M. 10. R. Rvdsox 
Gent. Ano. 1553.” 

“ Be faithful vnto the deth and I wil give thee a crowne of 
LIFE. T. Fane, 1554.” 

“ T. Culpeper of Darford.” 

Observe .—Early shields hung round the walls. Two white 
bows of yew, recovered in 1841 from the wreck of the Mary 
Rose, sunk off Spithead in 1545; they are fresh in appearance, 
as if they had been newly delivered out of the bowyer’s 
hands. Spontoon of the guard of Henry VIII. “ Great Holly 
Water Sprincle with thre gonnes in the top,” of the time of 
Henry VIII. The “ Iron Coller of Torment taken from y® 
Spanyard in y® year 1588,” “ The Cravat,” an iron instrument 


88 


XIII.—TOWER OF LONDON. 


for confining at onco the head, hands, and feet. Match¬ 
lock petronel ornamented with the badges of Henry VIII., 
the rose surmounted by a crown and the fleur-de-lys, with 
the initials H.R, and other devices. Partizan engraved with 
the arms of Sir Dudley Carleton, Viscount Dorchester, of the 
time of Charles I., and formerly exhibited as “ the Spanish 
General’s Staff.” Heading-axe, said to have been used in the 
execution of the Earl of Essex in the reign of Queen Eliza¬ 
beth. Block on which Lord Lovat was beheaded, in 1746; 
Lord Lovat was the last person beheaded in this country: it 
was a neio block for the occasion. Thumbikins, or thumb¬ 
screws for torturing. A Lochaber axe. Matchlock arquebuse, 
time of Henry VIII. Shield of the sixteenth century, with 
the death of Charles the Bold in high relief upon it. The 
cloak on which General Wolfe died before Quebec. Sword 
and belt of the Duke of York, second son of King George HI. 

On the S. side of the White Tower, outside, are seveml in¬ 
teresting remains of early gunnery. Observe. —No. 7, a chamber 
gun of the time of Henry VI. No. 17, a portion of a large 
brass gun of the time of Henry VIII., said to have belonged 
to the Great Harry, of which we have a representation in the 
picture at Hampton Court. No. 18, a gun of the same 
reign, inscribed, “Thomas Semeur Knyght was master of 
the King’s Ordynance whan lohn and Robei’t Owen 
Brethren made thys Pece Anno Domini 1546.” Iron 
serpent with chamber, time of Henry VIII., recovered 
from the wreck of the Mary Rose, sunk off Spithead, in 
1545, Brass gun taken fi’om the Chinese in 1842, inscribed. 
“Richard: Philips: made: this: Pece: An: Dni : 1601.” 
Two brass guns, called “ Charles ” and “ Le Temeraire,” cap¬ 
tured from the French at Cherbom-g, in 1758, bearing the 
arms of France and the motto of Louis XIV., “ Ultima ratio 
regum.” Large mortar employed by William III., at the 
siege of Namur. 

The Jewel-house within the Tower was kept by a particular 
officer called “The Master of the Jewel-house,” formerly 
esteemed the first Knight Bachelor of England. The treasures 
constituting the Regalia are arranged in a glazed iron cage in 
the centre of a well-lighted room, with an ample passage 
for visitors to ^walk round. Ohsei've. —St. Edward’s Crown, 
made for the coronation of Charles II., and used in the 
coronations of all our Sovereigns since his time. This is 
the crown placed by the Archbishop of Canterbury on the 
head of the Sovereign at the altar, and the identical crown 
which Blood stole from the Tower on the 9th of May, 1671. 

.—The Crown, made for the coronation of Queen Victoria; 


XIIT.—THE JEWEL-HOUSE. 


89 


a cap of purple velvet, enclosed by hoops of silver, and 
studded with a profusion of diamonds; it weighs If lb. The 
large unpolished ruby is said to have been worn by Edward 
the Black Prince; the sapphire is of great value, and the 
whole crown is estimated at 111,900?.—The Prince of Wales’s 
crown, of pure gold, unadorned by jewels.—The Queen 
Consort’s Crown, of gold, set with diamonds, pearls, &c. 
—The Queen’s Diadem, or circlet of gold, made for the 
coronation of Marie d’Este, Queen of James II.—St. Ed¬ 
ward’s staff, of beaten gold, 4 feet 7 inches in length, sur¬ 
mounted by an orb and cross, and shod with a steel spike. 
The orb is said to contain a fragment of the true Cross.—The 
Royal Sceptre, or Sceptre with the Cross, of gold, 2 feet 9 
inches in length; the staff is plain, and the pommel is orna¬ 
mented with rubies, emeralds, and diamonds. The fleurs-de- 
lys with which this sceptre was formerly adorned have been 
replaced by golden leaves bearing the rose, shamrock, and 
thistle. The cross is covered with jewels of various kinds, 
and has in the centre a large table diamond.—The Rod of 
Equity, or Sceptre with the Dove, of gold, 3 feet 7 inches in 
length, set with diamonds, &c. At the top is an orb, banded 
with rose diamonds, and surmounted with a cross, on which 
is the figure of a dove with expanded wings.—The Queen’s 
Sceptre with the Cross, smaller in size, but of rich workman¬ 
ship, and set with precious stones.—The Queen’s Ivory 
Sceptre (but called the Sceptre of Queen Anna Boleyn), made 
for Marie d’Este, consort of James II. It is mounted in gold, 
and terminated by a golden cross, bearing a dove of white 
onyx.—Sceptre found behind the wainscotting of the old 
Jewel Office, in 1814; supposed to have been made for 
Queen Mary, consort of William III.—The Orb, of gold, 
6 inches in diameter, banded with a fillet of the same metal, 
set with pearls, and surmounted by a large amethyst sup¬ 
porting a cross of gold.—The Queen’s orb, of smaller 
dimensions, but of similar fashion and materials.—The Koh-i- 
Noor diamond, the prize of the army which conquered 
Lahore ; it belonged to Rrmjeet Singh.—The Sword of Mercy, 
or Curtana, of steel, ornamented with gold, and pointless. 
— The Swords of Justice, Ecclesiastical and Temporal.— 
The Armillae, or Coronation Bracelets, of gold, chased 
with the rose, fleur-de-lys, and harp, and edged with pearls. 
—The Royal Spurs, of gold, used in the coronation cere¬ 
mony, whether the sovereign be King or. Queen.—The 
Ampulla for the Holy Oil, in shape of an eagle. —The Gold 
Coronation Spoon, used for receiving the sacred oil from the 
ampulla at the anointing of the sovereign, and supposed to 


90 


XIII.—TOWER OF LONDON. 


be the sole relic of the ancient regalia.—The Golden Salt 
Cellar of State, in the shape of a castle.—Baptismal Font, of 
silver gilt, used at the Christening of the Royal Children— 
Silver Wine Fountain, presented to Charles II. by the corpo¬ 
ration of Plymouth. 

The first stone of the IVelUngton Barracks, a lai’ge build¬ 
ing of questionable castellated style, was laid by the Duke of 
Wellington, 1845, on the N. side of the White Tower, on the 
site of the Grand Storehouse, built by William III., and 
burned down Oct. 30th, 1841. The principal loss by that con¬ 
flagration was 280,000 stand of muskets and small arms, 
ready for use, but of antique make, “ Brown Bess ” with flint 
locks. The Ordnance stores in the Tower were estimated 
in 1849 at 640,023Z. 

St. Peter's ad Vincula, the church of the Liberty of the 
Tower, consists of a chancel, nave, and N. aisle ; chiefly of 
the Perpendicular style, about the time of Henry VI.; but 
the whole structure has been disfigured so often by succes¬ 
sive alterations and additions, that little remains of the 
original building. 

Lord de Ros, the present Lieut.-Governor, has done his 
best to remove some of those barbarous novelties, which, to 
use the words of Macaxday, “ transformed this interesting 
little church into the likeness of a meeting-house in a manu¬ 
facturing town. . . . 

“ In truth, there is no sadder spot on earth than this little cemeteiy. 
Death is there associated, not, as in Westminster Abbey and St. Paul’s, 
with genius and virtue, with public veneration and with imperishable 
renown ; not, as in our humblest churches and churchyards, with every¬ 
thing that is most endearing in social and domestic charities; hut with 
whatever is darkest in human nature and in human destiny, with the 
savage triumph of implacable enemies, with the inconstancy, the in¬ 
gratitude, the cowardice of friends, with all the miseries of fallen great¬ 
ness and of blighted fame.”— 31acaulay's History of England, i. 628. 

Eminent Persons interred in St. Peter's Church. - -Queen 
Anne Boleyn (beheaded 1536). 

“ Her body Avas thrown into a common chest of elm-tree, that was 
made to put arroAvs in, and Avas buried in the chapel within the Tower 
before twelve o’clock.”— Bishop Burnet. 

Queen Katherine Howard (beheaded 1542).—Sir Thomas 
More. 

“ His head AV'as put upon London Bridge; his body was buried in the 
chapel of St. Peter in the Tower, in the belfry, or as some say, as one 
entereth into the vestry, near unto the body of the holy martyr Bishop 
Fisher.”— Cresacre Ilore’s Life of Sir Thomas 3Iore, p. 2^. 

Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex (beheaded 1540). Margaret, 
Countess of Shrewsbury (beheaded 1541). Thomas, Lord 


91 


XIII.—ST. teter’s church, TOIYER. 

Seymour of Sudley, the Lord Admiral (beheaded 1549), by 
order of his brother, the Protector Somerset. The Protector 
Somerset (beheaded 1552). John Dudley, Earl of Warwick 
and Duke of Northumberland (beheaded 1553). 

There lyeth before the High Altar, in St. Peter’s Church, two Dukes 
between two Queenes, to wit, the Duke of Somerset and the Duke of 
Northumberland, between Queen Anne and Queen Katherine, all four 
beheaded.”— Stow, hy Howes, p. 615. 

Lady Jane Grey and her husband, the Lord Guilford Dudley 
(beheaded 1553-4). Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex (be¬ 
headed 1600). Sir Thomas Overbury, poisoned in the Tower, 
and buried, according to the register. Sept. 15th, 1613. Sir 
John Eliot died a prisoner in the Tower, Nov. 27th, 1632; 
his son petitioned the King (Charles L) that he would permit 
his father’s body to be conveyed to Cornwall for interment, 
but the King’s answer at the foot of the petition was, “ Let 
Sir John Eliot’s body be buried in the church of that parish 
where he died.” Okey, the regicide. Duke of Monmouth 
(beheaded 1685), buried beneath the communion-table. 
John Rotier (d. 1703), the eminent medallist, and rival of 
Simon. Lords Kilmarnock and Balmerino (beheaded 1746). 
Simon, Lord Lovat (beheaded 1747). Col. Gurwood, Editor 
of the Wellington Despatches (d. 1846). 

See Altar-tomb, with effigies of Sir Richard Cholmondeley 
and his wife ; he was Lieutenant of the Tower in the reign of 
Henry VII. Monument, with kneeling figures, to Sir Richard 
Blount, Lieutenant of the Tower (d. 1564), and his son and 
successoi’. Sir Michael Blount. Monument in chancel to Sir 
Allen Apsley, Lieutenant of the Tower (d. 1630), father of 
Ml’S. Lucy Hutchinson. Inscribed stone on fioor of nave, 
over the remains of Talbot Edwards (d. 1674), Keeper of 
the Regalia when Blood stole the crown. Here, in the 
lieutenancy of Pennington (the regicide Lord Mayor of 
London), one Kem, vicar of Low Leyton, in Essex, preached 
in a gown over a buff coat and scai’f. Laud, who was a 
prisoner in the Tower at the time, records the circumstance, 
with becoming horror, in the History of his Troubles. 

Eminent Per sans confined in the Tower. —Wallace, Mor¬ 
timer.—Jolm King of France.—Charles, Duke of Orleans, 
father of Louis XII., who was taken prisoner at the battle of 
Agincourt. He acquired a very great proficiency in our 
language. A volume of his English poems, preserved in the 
British Museuiu, contains the earliest known representation 
of the Tower, engraved in Lord De Ros’ Memorials.— 
Queen Anna Boleyn, executed 1536, by the hangman of Calais, 
on a scaffold erected within the walls of the Tower.—Queen 


92 


XIIT.—TOWER OF LONDON. 


Catherine Howard, fourth wife of Henry VIII., beheaded, 
1541-2, on a scaffold erected within the walls of the Tower. 
Lady Rochford was executed at the same time,—Sir Thomas 
More.—Archbishop Cranmer.—Protector Somerset,—Lady 
Jane Grey, beheaded on a scaffold erected within the walls 
of the Tower.—Sir Thomas Wyatt, beheaded on Tower Hill. 
—Devereux, Earl of Essex, beheaded on a scaffold erected 
within the walls of the Tower.—Sir Walter Raleigh. (He 
was on three different occasions a prisoner in the Tower; 
once in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, on account of his 
marriage, and twice in the reign of King James I. Here he 
began his History of the World; here he amused himself 
with his chemical experiments; and here his son, Carew 
Raleigh, was born.)—Lady Arabella Stuaii: and her husband, 
William Seymour, afterwards Duke of Somerset. (Seymour 
escaped from the Tower.)—Countess of Somei’set, (for Over- 
bury’s murder).—Sir John Eliot. (Here he wrote The 
Monarchy of Man; and here he died, in 1632.)—Earl of 
Strafford,—Archbishop Laud.—Lucy Barlow, mother of the 
Duke of Monmouth. (Cromwell discharged her from the 
Tower in July, 1656.)—Sir William Davenant.—Villiers, 
second Duke of Buckingham.—Colonel Hutchinson, at the 
Restoration of Charles II. 

“ His chamber was a room where ’tis said the two young princes, 
King Edward the Fifth and his brother, were murdered in former days, 
and the room that led to it was a dark great room, that had no window in 
it, where the portcullis to one of the inward Tower gates was drawn up 
and let down, under which there sat every night a court of guard. There 
is a tradition that in this room the Duke of Clarence was drowned in a 
butt of Malmsey; from which murder this room and that joining it, where 
^Ir. Hutchinson lay, was called the Bloody Tower.”— Mrs. Hutchinson. 

(Mrs, Hutchinson was the daughter of Sir Allen Apsley, 
Lieutenant of the Tower, was herself born in the Tower, 
and, therefore, well acquainted with the traditions of the 
building.)—Sir Harry Vane, the younger,—Duke of Buck¬ 
ingham.—Earl of Shaftesbury.—Earl of Salisbury, temp. 
Charles II. (When Lord Salisbury was offered his atten¬ 
dants in the Tower, he only asked for his cook. The King 
was very angiy.)—William, Lord Russell.—Algernon Sydney. 
—Seven Bishops, June 8th, 1688.—Lord Chancellor Jeffries, 
1688.—The great Duke of Marlboi'ough, 1692.—Sir Robert 
Walpole, 1712. (Granville, Lord Lansdowne, the poet, was 
afterwards confined in the same apartment, and wrote 
a copy of verses on the occasion.)—Harley, Earl of Oxford, 
1715,—William Shippen, M.P. for Saltash (for saying, in the 
House of Commons, of a speech from the throne, % Geoi'ge I., 
‘‘that the second paragraph of the King’s speech seemed 


XIII.—TOWER HILL. 


93 


rather to be calculated for the meridian of Germany than 
Great Britain; and that ’twas a great misfortune that the 
King was a stranger to our language and constitution.” He 
is the downright Shippen” of Pope’s poems).—Bishop 
Atterbury, 1722. 

“ How pleasing Atterbury’s softer hour, 

How shone his soul unconquered in the Tower! ”— Pope. 

At his last interview with Pope, Atterhury presented him 
with a Bible. When Atterbuiy was in the Tower, Lord 
Cadogan was asked, “What shall we do with the man?” 
His reply was, “ Fling him to the lions.”)—Dr. Freind. (Here 
he wrote his History of Medicine.)—Earl of Derwentwater, 
Earl of Nithsdale, Lord Kenmuir. Derwentwater and 
Kenmuir were executed on Tower Hill. (Lord Nithsdale 
escaped from the Tower, Feb. 28th, 1715, dressed in a 
woman’s clothes, cloak and hood, provided by his heroic 
wife. The history of his escape, contrived and effected by 
his countess, with admirable coolness and intrepidity, is 
given by herself in an interesting letter to her sister,—see 
Mahon’s “History of England,” vols. i. and ii.)—Lords 
Kilmarnock, Balmerino, and Lovat, 1746. (The block on 
which Lord Lovat wns beheaded is preserved in Queen 
Elizabeth’s Armoury.)—John Wilkes, 1762.—Lord George 
Gordon, 1780.—Sir Francis Burdett, April 6th, 1810.—Arthur 
Thistlewood, 1820, the last person sent a prisoner to the 
Tower. 

Persons murdered in. —Heniy VI.—Duke of Clarence 
drowned in a butt of Malmsey in a room in the Bowyer, 
or rather, it is thought. Bloody, Tower.—Edward V. and 
Richard, Duke of York their supposed remains (preserved 
in a cenotaph in Westminster Abbey) were found in the 
reign of Charles II., while digging the foundation for the 
present stone stairs to the Chapel of the White Tower.—Sir 
Thomas Overbury. (He was committed to the Tower, April 
21st, 1613, and found dead in the Tower on Sept. 14th 
following. The manner of his poisoning is one of the most 
interesting and mysterious chapters in English History.)— 
Arthur Capel, Earl of Essex. (He was found in the Tower 
with his throat cut, July 13th, 1638.) 

Persons horn in. —Carew Raleigh (Sir Walter Raleigh’s son). 
—Mrs. Hutchinson, the biographer of her husband.—’Countess 
of Bedford (daughter of the infamous Countess of Somerset, 
and mother of William, Lord Russell). 

The high ground outside to the N.W. of the Tower is 
called Tower Bill. Here till within the last 150 years stood a 



94 


XIII.—TOWER HILL. 


large scaffold and gallows of timber, for tbe execution of such 
traitors or transgi’essors as were delivered out of the Tower, 
or othei'wise, to the sheriffs of London for execution. 

Executions on Tower Hill. —Bishop Fisher, 1535. — Sir 
Thomas More, 1535. 

“ Going up tlie scaffold, which was so weak that it was ready to fall, he 
said hurriedly to the Lieutenant, ‘ I pray you, Master Lieutenant, sec me 
safe up, and for my coming down let me shift for myself.’”— Eoper'sLife. 

Cromwell, Earl of Essex, 1540.—Margaret, Countess of 
Shrewsbury, mother of Cardinal Pole, 1541.—Earl of Surrey, 
the poet, 1547.—Thomas, Lord Seymour of Sudley, the 
Lord Admiral, beheaded, 1549, by order of his brother the 
Protector Somerset.—The Protector Somerset, 1552.—Sir 
Thomas Wyatt. — John Dudley, Earl of Warwick and 
Northumberland, 1553.—Lord Guilford Dudley, (liusband 
of Lady Jane Grey,) 1553-4.—Sir Gervase Helwys, Lieutenant 
of the Tower, (executed for his share in the murder of Sir 
Thomas Overbury.)—Earl of Strafford, 1641.—Archbishop 
Laud, 1644-5.—Sir Harry Vane, the younger, 1662.—Viscount 
Stafford, 1680, beheaded on the perjured evidence of Titus 
Oates, and others.—Algernon Sydney, 1683.—Duke of Mon¬ 
mouth, 1685.—Earl of Derwentwater and Lord Kenmuir, 
implicated in the rebellion of 1715.—Lords Kilmarnock and 
Balmerino, 1746.—Simon, Lord Lovat, 1747, was not only 
the last pei’son beheaded on Tower Hill, but the last person 
beheaded in this country. 

Llewellyn’s head was placed on the walls of the Tower. 
Lady Ealeigh lodged on Tower Hill while her husband was 
a prisoner in the Tower. William Penn, the founder of 
Pennsylvania, was born (1644) on the E. side of Tower Hill, . 
within a court adjoining to London Wall. At a public-' 
house on Tower Hill, known by the sign of the Bull, whither 
he had withdrawn to avoid his creditors, Otway, the poet, 
died (it is said, of want) April 14th, 1685. At a cutler’s 
shop on Tower Hill, Felton bought the knife with which he 
stabbed the first Duke of Buckingham of the Villiei’s family; 
it was a broad, sharp, hunting knife, and cost l5. The second 
duke often repaired in disguise to the lodging of a poor person, 

“ about Tower Hill,” who professed skill in horoscopes. 

The area of the Tower, within the walls, is 12 acres and 5 
poles; and the circuit outside of the ditch is 1050 yards. 


XIV.—CHURCHES—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


95 


XIV.-CHURCHES. 


Of the 98 parish churches within the walls of the City of 
London, at the time of the Great Fire, 85 were burnt down, 
and 13 unburnt; 53 were rebuilt, and 35 united to other 
parishes. “ It is observed and is true in the late Fire of 
London,” says Pepys in his Diary, ‘‘ that the fire burned just 
as many parish churches as there were hours from the begin¬ 
ning to the end of the Fire; and next that there were just 
as many chm’ches left standing in the rest of the city that 
was not burned, being, I think, 13 in all of each.” There is a 
talk of removing many of the City churches to localities with 
larger Sunday population. 

The following is the Yearly Value of some of the Church 
Livings in London :— 


St. Botolph’s, Bishopsgate £ 1650 
St. Giles’s, Cripplegate . . 1580 
St. Olave’s, Hart-street . 1891 
St. Andrew’s, Holborn . . 950 

St. Catherine Coleman . 550 

St. Bartholomew the Less 30 
Lambeth.1500 


St. Marylebone . . . 1250 

St. George’s, Hanover-square 700 
St. James’s, Westminster . 1160 
St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields . 830 

All Souls’, Langham-place . 850 

St. Mary’s, Islington . . 1155 

St. Luke’s, Chelsea. . . 1003 


The income of the Bishop of London is fixed at 10,000?. 
a-year. 


WESTMINSTER ABBEY, or the Collegiate Church of 
St. Peter’s, Westminster, originally a Benedictine monas- 
teiy—the “ minster west ” of St. Paul’s, London. Here our 
Kings and Queens have been crowned, from Edward the 
Confessor to Queen Victoria; and here very many of them 
are buried, some with and others without monuments. 

A church existed here in the days of King Ofifa. A new 
one was erected by Edward the Confessor about 1065. No 
part of the present church can be identified with that, but 
there are remains of his building in the substructure of 
the Dormitory, or Chapel of the Pix, in the dark cloister 
south of the south transept. The oldest part of the present 
Abbey Church, the choir and transepts, date from the reign 
of Henry III., and are early pointed in style. The four 
bays west of the transept are of Edward the First’s time, 
and Early Dec. style; the remainder, to the west door, of 
the fifteenth century, built under Sir Richard Whittington, 
Lord Mayor, as Commissioner. 



96 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


Dimensions. —Length, 416 feet, ditto of transept, 203 feet, 
ditto of choir, 155 feet; height from pavement, 101 feet 8 
inches, height of towers, 225 feet. 

Heniy VII.’s Chapel is late Pei’pendicular, richly orna¬ 
mented with panelling, &c.; and the western towel’s, de¬ 
signed by Wren, are in a debased style of mixed Grecian 
and Gothic. 

The Abbey is open to public inspection between the hours 
of 11 and 3 generally; and also in the summer months be¬ 
tween 4 and 6 in the afternoon. The Nave, Transepts, and 
Cloisters are free. The charge for admission to the rest of 
the Abbey (through which you are accompanied by a guide) 
is Qd. each person. The entrance is at the south transept, 
known as “Poets’ Corner.” The public are not admitted 
to view the monuments on Good Friday, Christmas Day, or 
Fast Days, or during the hours of Divine Service, viz., 
Sundays, at 10 a.m., at 3 p.M.,‘and Evening Service in the 
Nave at 7 P.M., and daily at 7.45 a.m., 10 a.m., and 3 p.m. 
About 2000 people attend the Sunday services. 

The usual plan observed in viewing the Abbey is to 
examine Poets’ Corner (see p. 106), and wait till a sufficient 
party is formed for a guide to accompany you through the 
chapels. If you find a party formed, you will save time by 
joining it at once. You can examine the open parts of the 
building afterwards at your own convenience. Observe, in 
the chapel, at the end of the E. aisle of S. transept—Part of 
an altar-decoration of the 13th or 14th century, 11 feet long 
by 3 feet high, under glass. 

“ In the centre is a figure, intended for Christ, holding the globe, and 
in the act of blessing; an angel with a palm branch is on each side. 
The single figure at the left hand of the whole decoration is St. Peter. 
The compartments not occupied by figures were adorned with a deep- 
blue glass resembling lapis lazuli, with gold lines of foliage executed 
on it. The smaller spaces and mouldings were enriched Avith cameos 
and gems, some of which still remain. That the Avork was executed in 
England there can be little doubt.”— Eastlahe on Oil Painting, p. 176. 

The first chapel you are shoAvn is called the “ Chapel of 
St. Benedict,” or the “ Chapel of the Deans of the College,” 
several of whom are buried here. The principal tombs are 
those of Langham, Archbishop of Canterbury (d. 1376); the 
Countess of Hertford, sister to the Lord High Admiral 
Nottingham, so famous for his share in the defeat of the 
Spanish Armada (d. 1598); and Lionel Cranfield, Earl of 
Middlesex, and Lord High Treasurer in the reign of James I. 
(d. 1645). 

The second chapel is that of “ St. Edmund,” containing 20 


XIV.—CHAPELS—HENRY VII.’s CHAPEL. 


97 


monuments, of which that on your right as you enter, to 
William do Valence, Earl of Pembroke, half-brother to 
Henry III., and father of Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pem¬ 
broke (d. 1296), is the first in point of time and also the 
most important; the effigy exhibits the earliest existing 
instance in this country of the use of enamelled metal for 
monumental purposes. The other tombs and monuments of 
importance in this chapel are—tomb of John of Eltham, 
son of Edward II.; tomb with miniature alabaster figures, 
representing William of Windsor and Blanch de la Tour, 
children of Edward III.; monumental brass (the best in 
the Abbey), representing Eleanora de Bohmi, Duchess of 
Gloucester, in her conventual dress, as a nun of Barking 
Abbey (d. 1399); monumental brass of Kobert de Waldeby, 
Archbishop of York (d. 1397); effigy of Frances, Duchess of 
Suffolk, grand-daughter of Henry VII., and mother of Lady 
Jane Grey; and alabaster statue of Ehzabeth Russell, of the 
Bedford family—foohshly shown for many years as the lady 
who died by the prick of a needle. 

The third chapel is that of St. Nicholas,” containing the 
monument of the wife of the Protector Somerset; the great 
Lord Burghley’s monument to his wife Mildred, and their 
daughter Anne; Sir Robert Cecil’s monument to his wife; 
and a large altar-tomb in the area, to the father and mother 
of Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, the Steenie of James I. 

The fourth chapel is that of the “ Virgin Mary,” called 
“ Henry VII.’s Chapel,” and entered by a flight of twelve steps 
beneath the Oratoiy of Henry V. The entrance gates are of 
oak, overlaid with brass, gilt, and wrought into various de¬ 
vices—the portcullis exhibiting the descent of the founder 
from the Beaufort family, and the crown and twisted roses 
the union that took place, on Hemy’s marriage, of the White 
Rose of York with the Red Rose of Lancaster, The chapel 
consists of a central aisle, with flve small chapels at the east 
end, and two side aisles, north and south. The banners and 
stalls appertain to the Knights of the Most Honourable Mili¬ 
tary Order of the Bath, an order of merit next in rank in this 
country to the Most Noble Order of the Garter; the knights 
were formerly installed in this chapel; and the Dean of 
Westminster is Dean of the Order. The principal monuments 
in Henry VII.’s Chapel are—altar-tomb with effigies of 
Henry VII. and Queen (in the centre of the chapel), the 
work of Peter Torrigiano, an Italian sculptor :—Lord Bacon 
calls it one of the stateliest and daintiest tombs in Eui’ope: ” 
—the heads of the King and Queen were originally sur¬ 
mounted with crowns; the Perpendicular enclosure or 


98 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


screen is of brass, and the work of an English artist. In 
South Aisle. —Altar-tomb, with effigy (by Peter Torrigiano) of 
Margaret, Countess of Eichmond, mother of Henry VII. 
Altar-tomb, with effigy of the mother of Lord Darnley, hus¬ 
band of Mary, Queen of Scots. Tomb, with effigy (by Cor¬ 
nelius Cure) of Mary, Queen of Scots, erected by James I., 
who brought liis mother s body from Peterborough Cathediul, 
and buried it here. The face is very beautiful, and is iioav 
generally admitted to be the most genuine likeness of the 
Queen. Monument to George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, 
and his duchess;—the duke was assassinated by Felton in 
1628: his younger son, Francis, who was killed in the Civil 
Wars, and his eldest son, the second and profligate duke, are 
buried with their father in the vault beneath. Statue of the 
first wife of Sir Eobert Walpole, erected by her son, Horace 
Walpole, the great letter-vuiter. In North Aisle —Tomb, 
with effigy (by Maximilian Coult) of Queen Elizabeth (the 
lion-hearted Queen); her sister. Queen Mary, is buried in the 
same grave. Alabaster cradle, with effigy of Sophia, daughter 
of James I., who died when only three days old : James I. 
and Anne of Denmark, Henry Prince of Wales, the Queen of 
Bohemia, and Arabella Stuart are buried beneath. Monu¬ 
ment to Lodowick Stuart, Duke of Eichmond and Lennox, 
and his duchess, of the time of James I. (La Belle Stuart is 
buried beneath this monument). Monument to George 
Monk, Duke of Albemarle, who restored King Charles II. 
Sarcophagus of white marble, containing certain bones acci¬ 
dentally discovered (1674) in a wooden chest below the stairs 
which formerly led to the chapel of the White Towei', and 
believed to be the remains of Edward V. and his brother 
Eichard, Duke of York, murdered (1483) by order of their 
uncle, IHng Eichard III. Monuments to Saville, Marquis of 
Halifax, the statesman and wit (d. 1695);—to Montague, 
Earl of Halifax, the patron of the men of genius of his 
time (d. 1715), (here Addison and Craggs are buried)—to 
Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, the patron of Dryden, with 
its inscription, “ Dubius, sed non Improbus, Vixi.” Eecum- 
bent figure, by Sir E. Westmacott, of the Duke of Mont- 
pensier, brother to Louis Philippe, late King of the French. 
The statues in the architecture of this chapel are commended 
by Flaxman for “ their natural simplicity, and grandeur of 
character and drapery.” Charles II., William and Mary, and 
Queen Anne are buried in a vault at the east end of the soxxth 
aisle;—George II. and Queen Caroline,—Frederick, Prince of 
Wales, the father of George III.,—and William, Duke of 
Cumberland, the hero of Culloden, in a vaxxlt in the central 




































100 


r 

XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 

aisle. The remains of George II. and his Queen lie mingled 
together, a side having been taken by the King’s own direetion 
from each of the coffins for this purpose : the two sides which 
were withdrawn were seen standing against the wall when 
the vault was opened for the last time in 1837. 

The fifth chapel is “St. Paul’s.” Obso've. —Altar-tomb on 
your right as you enter to Lodowick Robsart, Lord Bourchier, 
standard-bearer to Henry V. at the battle of Agincourt. 
Altar-tomb of Sir Giles Daubeny (Lord Chamberlain to 
Henry VIL) and his lady. Stately monument against the 
wall to Sir Thomas Bromley, Lord Chancellor of England in 
the reign of Queen Elizabeth; he sat as Chancellor at the 
trial of Mary, Queen of Scots, at Fotheringay. Monuments 
to Viscount Dorchester, and Francis, Lord Cottington, of the 
time of Charles I. Colossal poi’trait-statue of Janies Watt, 
the great engineei’, by Sir Francis Chantrey—cost 6000Z.; 
the inscription by Lord Brougham. Archbishop Usher is 
buried in this chapel;—his funei’al was conducted with great 
pomp by command of Cromwell, who bore half the expense 
of it; the other half fell very heavily on his relations. 

The sixth chapel (the most interesting of all) occupies the 
space at the back of the high altar of the Abbey; is called 
the “ Chapel of St. Edward the Confessor,” or the “ Chapel 
of the Kings,” and is entered from the ambulatory by a tem¬ 
porary staircase. The centre of this chapel is taken up by 
the shrine of King Edward the Confessor, erected in the 
reign of Heniy HI., and richly inlaid with mosaic work: of 
the original Latin inscription, only a few letters remain. 
The wainscot addition at the top was erected in the reign of 
Mary I., by Abbot Fekenham. Hemy IV. w'as seized with 
his last illness while performing his devotions at this shrine. 
Ko part of this chapel should be overlooked. Observe .— 
Altar-tomb, with bronze effigy of Henry III. (the effigy of 
the king very fine). Altar-tomb of Edward I., composed of 
five large slabs of Purbeck marble, and carrying this appro¬ 
priate inscription:— 

“ EDWARDVS PRIMVS SCOTORVM MALLEUS—HIC EST.” 

Wlien the tomb was opened in 1774, the body of the King 
was discovered almost entire, with a crown of tin gilt upon 
his head, a sceptre of copper gilt in his right hand, and a 
sceptre and dove of the same materials in his left; and in 
this state he is still lying. Altar-tomb, with effigy of Eleanor, 
Queen of Edward I.; the figure of the Queen was the work 
of Master William Torell, goldsmith, i.e., Torelli, an Italian, 
and is much and deservedly admired for its simplicity and 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


101 


beauty ; the iron work (recently restored) was the work of a 
smith living at Leighton Buzzard, in Bedfordshire. Altar- 
tomb, with efl&gy of Edward III.; the sword and shield of 
state, carried before the King in France, are placed by the 
side of the tomb. Altar-tomb, with effigy of Philippa, Queen 
of Edward III. Altar-tomb, with effigies of Richard II. and 
his Queen. Altar-tomb and chantry of Henry V., the hero 
of Agineourt; the head of the King was of solid silver, and 
the figure was plated with the same metal; the head was 
stolen at the Reformation ; the helmet, shield, and saddle of 
the King are still to be seen on a bar above the turrets of the 
chantry. Grey slab, formerly adorned witji a rich brass 
figure (a few nails are still to be seen), covering the remains 
of Thomas of Woodstock, youngest son of Edward III., mur¬ 
dered by order of his nephew, Richard II. Small altar-tomb 
of Margaret of York, infant daughter of Edward IV. Small 
altar-tomb of Elizabeth Tudor, infant daughter of Henry VII. 
Brass, much worn, representing John de Waltham, Bishop of 
Salisbury, and Lord High Treasurer of England in the reign 
of Richard II.: Richard loved him so much, that he 
ordered his body to be buried in the Chapel of the Kings. 
The two Coronation Chairs, still used at the coronations of 
the Sovereigns of Great Britain—one containing the famous 
stone of Scone on which the Scottish Kings were crowned, 
and which Edward I. carried away with him, as an evidence 
of his absolute conquest of Scotland. This stone is 26 inches 
long, 16 inches wide, and 11 inches thick, and is fixed in the 
bottom of the chair by cramps of iron; it is nothing more 
than a piece of reddish-grey sandstone squared and smoothed; 
—the more modern chair was made for the coronation of 
Mary, Queen of William III. The screen dividing the chapel 
from the Choir was erected in the reign of Henry VI.: 
beneath the cornice runs a series of 14 sculptures in bas- 
relief, representing the principal events, real and imaginary, 
in the life of Edward the Confessor; the pavement of the 
chapel, much worn, is contemporary with the shrine of the 
Confessor. 

The seventh chapel is that of St. Erasmus,” and through 
it (it has nothing to detain you) you enter the eighth chapel, 
dedicated to ‘^St. John the Baptist,” containing the tombs of 
several early Abbots of Westminster; Abbot William de 
Colchester (d. 1420); Abbot Mylling (d. 1492); Abbot 
Fascet (d. 1500). Observe .—The very large and stately 
monument to Cary, Lord Hunsdon, first cousin and Cham¬ 
berlain to Queen Elizabeth. Large altar-tomb of Cecil, Earl 
of Exeter (eldest son of the great Lord Burghley), and his 


102 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


two wives; the vacant space is said to have been intended 
for the statue of his second countess, but she disdainfully 
refused to lie on the left side. Monument to Colonel 
Popham, one of Cromwell’s officers at sea, and the only 
monument to any of the Parliamentary party suffered to 
remain m the Abbey at the Restoration ; the inscription, 
however, was turned to the wall; his remains were removed 
at the same time with those of Cromwell, Ireton, Bradshaw, 
Blake, &c. 

The ninth chapel is that of ‘‘ Abbot Islip,” containing his 
altar-tomb (d. 1532), and the monument to the gi’eat-nephew 
and heir of Sir Christopher Hatton, Queen Elizabeth’s 
Lord Chancellor. The Hatton vault was purchased by 
William Pulteney, Earl of Bath, who is here interred, and 
whose monument, by the side of General Wolfe’s, is without 
the chapel, in the aisle of the Abbey. The Wolfe monument 
was the work of Wilton, and cost 30001 .: the bas-relief (in 
lead, bronzed over) representing the march of the British 
troops from the river bank to the Heights of Abraham, is by 
Capizzoldi. 

The E. aisle of the North Transept was formerly divided 
by screens into the Chapels of St. John, St. Michael, and 
St. Andrew. Observe two remarkable monuments—Four 
knights kneeling, and supporting on their shoulders a table, 
on which lie the several parts of a complete suit of armour ; 
beneath is the recumbent figure of Sir Francis Vere, the 
great Low Country soldier of Queen Elizabeth’s reign, by 
Nicholas Stone. Monument by Roubiliac (one of the last and 
best of his works) to Mr. and Mi’s. Nightingale ; the bottom 
of the monument represents a sheeted skeleton throwing 
open its marble doors, and launching his dart at the lady, 
who has sunk affrighted into her husband’s arms. The 
dying woman,” says Allan Cunningham, “ would do honour 
to any artist. Her right arm and hand are considered 
by sculptors as the perfection of fine workmanship. Life 
seems slowly receding from her tapering fingers and quivering 
wrist.” When RouWliac was erecting this monument, he 
w^as found one day by Gayfere, the Abbey mason, standing 
with his arms folded, and his looks fixed on one of the 
knightly figures which support the canopy over the statue 
of Sir Francis Vere. As Gayfere approached, the enthusiastic 
Frenchman laid his hand on his arm, pointed to the figure, 
and said, in a whisper, “ Hush ! hush ! he vil speak pre¬ 
sently.” 

The Choir, or cross of the transepts, affords the best point 
of view for examining the architecture of the Abbey. 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


103 


Observe .—Tomb of Sebert, King of tbe East Saxons, erected 
by tbe abbots and monks of Westminster, in 1308 ; tomb of 
Edmund Crouchback, Earl of Lancaster, second son of 
Edward III.; tomb of bis countess; tomb of Aymer de 
Valence, Earl of Pembroke (very fine—one of tbe best views 
of it is from tbe N. aisle). 

“ The monuments of Aymer de Valence and Edmund Crouchback are 
specimens of the magnificence of our sculpture in the reign of the two 
first Edwards. The loftiness of the work, the number of arches and 
pinnacles, the lightness of the spires, the richness and profusion of 
foliage and crockets, the solemn repose of the principal statue, the 
delicacy of thought in the group of angels bearing the soul, and the 
tender sentiment of concern variously expressed in the relations ranged 
in order round the basement, forcibly arrest the attention, and carry the 
thoiights not only to other ages, but to other states of existence.”— 
Flaxman. 

Tomb of Ann of Cleves, one of King Henry VIII.’s six wives. 
Tbe rich mosaic pavement is an excellent specimen of tbe 
Opus Alexandrinum, and was placed bere at tbe expense of 
Henry III., in tbe year 1268. Tbe black and white pavement 
was laid at tbe expense of Dr. Busby, master of Westminster 
Scbool. 

You now enter tbe North Transept, where you will Ob¬ 
serve —Tbe inscribed stones covering tbe graves of tbe rival 
statesmen, Pitt and Fox. 

“ The mighty chiefs sleep side by side; 

Drop upon Fox’s grave the tear, 

’Twill trickle to his rival’s bier .”—Sir Waller Scot.t. 

Grattan, Canning, and Castlereagb; and the following monu¬ 
ments—to tbe Duke and Duchess of Newcastle, of the time 
of Charles I. and II. Roubiliac’s monument to Sir Peter 
Warren, containing bis fine figure of Navigation ; Rysbracb’s 
monument to Admiral Vernon, who distinguished himself at 
Cartbagena; Bacon’s noble monument to tbe great Lord 
Chatham, erected by tbe King and Parliament—cost 6000Z. 

“ Bacon there 

Gives more than female beauty to a stone, 

And Chatham’s eloquence to marble lips.” 

Cowper, The Task. 

Nollekens’ large monument to tbe three naval captains who 
fell in Rodney’s great victory of April 12tb, 1782, erected by 
the King and Parliament—cost 4000Z.; Flaxman’s noble 
portrait-statue of tbe great Lord Mansfield, with Wisdoni 
on one side. Justice on tbe other, and behind tbe figure of 


104 


XIV.—^WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


a youth, a criminal, by Wisdom delivered up to Justice— 
erected by a private person, who bequeathed 2500Z. for the 
purpose ; statue of Sir W. Follett, by Behnes ; small monu¬ 
ment, with bust, to Warren Hastings—erected by his widow; 
Sir E. Westmacott’s Mrs. WaiTen and Child—one of the best 
of Sir Richard’s works; Chantrey’s three portrait-statues of 
Francis Horner, George Canning, and Sir John Malcolm; and 
Gibson’s standing statue of Sir Robert Peel. The statue 
without an inscription is meant for John Philip Kemble, 
'the actor. It was modelled by Flaxman, and executed by 
Hinchcliflfe after Flaxman’s death. It is veiy poor. In the N. 
aisle of the Choir (on your way to the Have), Observe — 
Tablets to Henry Purcell (d. 1695), and Dr. Blow (d. 1708), 
two of our greatest English musicians—the Purcell inscrip¬ 
tion is attributed to Dryden; portrait-statues of Sir Stamford 
Raffles, by Chantrey; and of Wilberforce, by S. Joseph. 

Observe in Nave .—Small stone, in the middle of the N. 
aisle (fronting Killigrew’s monument), inscribed, “ 0 Rare 
Ben Jonson.” The poet is buried here standing on his feet, 
and the inscription was done, as Aubrey relates, “at the 
charge of Jack Young (afterwards knighted), who, walking 
here when the grave was covering, gave the fellow eighteen- 
pence to cut it.” When the nave was re-laid, about fifteen 
years ago, the true stone was taken away, and the present 
uninteresting square placed in its stead. Tom Killigrew, the 
wit, is buried by the side of Jonson; and his son, who fell 
at the battle of Almanza, in 1707, has a monument imme¬ 
diately opposite. Monument, with inscriptions in Hebrew, 
Greek, Ethiopic, and English, to Sir Samuel Morland’s wives; 
— Morland was secretary to Thurloe, Ohver Cromwell’s 
secretary. Monument to Sir Palmes Fairborne, with a fine 
epitaph in verse by Diyden. Monument to Sir William 
Temple, the statesman and author, his -wife, sistei’-in-law, and 
child;—this was erected pursuant to Temple’s will. Monu¬ 
ment to Sprat, the poet, and friend of Cowley. (Bishop 
Atterbury is buried opposite this monument, in a vault 
which he made for himself when Dean of Westminster, “ as 
far,” he says to Pope, “ from kings and kaesars as the space 
will admit of.”) Monument, with bust, of Sidney, Earl of 
Godolphiu, chief minister to Queen Anne “ during the first 
nine glorious years of her reign.” Monument to Heneage 
Twysden, who wrote the genealogy of the Bickerstaff family 
in the Tatler, and fell at the battle of Blaregnies in 1709. 
Monument to Secretary Craggs, with fine epitaph in verse by 
Pope. Sitting statue of Wordswoi’th, the poet, by Lough. 
Monument to CongTcve, the poet, erected at the expense 


XIV.—^WESTMINSTER ABBEY—NAVE. 


105 


of Henrietta, Duchess of Marlborough, to whom, for reasons 
not known or mentioned, he bequeathed a legacy of about 
10 , 000 ^. 

“ When the younger Duchess exposed herself by placing a monument 
and silly epitaph of her own composing and bad spelling to Congreve in 
Westminster Abbey, her mother quoting the words said, ‘ I know not 
what pleasure she might have had in his company, but I am sure it was 
no honour.’ ”—Horace Walpole. 

Ill front of Congreve’s monument Mrs. Oldfield, the actress, 
is buried, “ in a very fine Brussells lace head,” says her 
maid; “ a Holland shift with a tucker and double ruffles of 
the same lace; a pair of new kid gloves, and her body 
wrapped up in a winding-sheet.” Hence the allusion of the 
satirist;— 

Odious! in woollen; 'twould a saint provoke 1 
(Were the last words that poor Narcissa spoke)— 

No, let a charming chintz and Brussels lace 
Wrap my cold limbs, and shade my lifeless face; 

One would not, sure, be frightful when one’s dead— 

And—Betty—give this cheek a little red.”— Pope. 

Under the organ-screen—Monuments to Sir Isaac Newton, 
designed by Kent, and executed by Eysbrach—cost 600Z., 
and to Earl Stanhope. To Dr. Mead, the physician (d. 1754). 
Three monuments by Roubiliac, in three successive win¬ 
dows ; to Field-Marshal Wade, whose part in putting down 
the Rebellion of 1745 is matter of history; to Major- 
General Fleming, and Lieutenant-General Hargrave. The 
absurd monument, by Nicholas Read, to Rear-Admiral Tyrrel 
(d. 1766) ; its common name is “ The Pancake Monument.” 
Heaven is represented with clouds and cherubs, the depths 
of the sea with rocks of coral and madrepore; the admiral is 
seen ascending into heaven, while Hibernia sits in the sea 
with her attendants, and points to the spot where the 
admiral’s body was committed to the deep. Monument of 
Major-General Stringer Lawrence, erected by the East India 
Company, “in testimony of their gratitude for his eminent 
services in the command of their forces on the coast of 
Coromandel, from 1746 to 1756.” Monument, by Flaxman, 
to Captain Montague, who fell in Lord Howe’s victory of 
June 1st. Monument to Major Andr^, executed by the 
Americans as a spy in the year 1780erected at the 
expense of George III., and the figure of Washington on 
the bas-relief has been renewed with a head on three diffe¬ 
rent occasions, “ the wanton mischief of some schoolboy,” 
says Charles Lamb, “fired, perhaps, with raw notions of 
transatlantic freedom. The mischief was done, ’ lie adds. 


106 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


—Lc is addressing Southey,—“about the time that you 
were a scholar there. Do you know anything about the 
unfortunate relic?” This sly allusion to the early political 
principles of the great poet caused a temporary cessation of 
friendship with the essayist.—SirR. Westmacott’s monument 
to Spencer Perceval, First Lord of the Treasury and Chan¬ 
cellor of the Exchequer, shot by Bellingham in the lobby of 
the House of Commons in 1812—cost 52501. Monuments to 
William Pitt—cost 6300Z.; and C. J. Fox (there is no inscrip¬ 
tion) ; both by Sir Richard Westmacott. Terminal busts to 
Zachary Macaulay, father of the historian, and Sir James 
Mackintosh. Monument by Baily, R.A., to Vassall Fox, Lord 
Holland. Observe .—In south aisle of Choir, recumbent 
figure of William Thynn, Receiver of the Marches in the 
reign of Henry VIII. Good bust, by Le Soeur, of Lord 
Chief Justice Richardson, in the reign of Charles 1. Monu¬ 
ment to Thomas Thynn, of Longleat, who was barbarously 
murdered on Sunday the 12th of February, 1682; he was 
shot in his coach, and the bas-relief contains a representation 
of the event. 

“ A Welshman bragging of his family, said his father’s effigy was set 
up in Westminster Abbey: being asked whereabouts, he said, ‘In the 
same monument with Squire Thynn, for he was his coachman,’ "—Joe 
Miller's Jests. 

Monument to Dr. South, the great divine (d. 1716); he was 
a prebendary of this church. Monument, by F. Bird (in the 
worst taste), to Sir Cloudesley Shovel (d. 1707). Monument 
to Dr. Busby, master of Westminster School (d. 1695). 
* Honorary monument to Sir Godfrey Kneller, with fine 
epitaph in verse by Pope. Honorary monument, by T. Banks, 
R.A., to Dr. Isaac Watts (d. 1741), who was buried in Bunhill- 
fields. Bust, by Flaxman, of Pasquale de Paoli, the Corsican 
chief (d. 1807). Monument to Dr. Burney, the Greek scholar; 
the inscription by Dr. Parr. 

In Poets' Corner, occupying nearly a half of the South 
Transept, and so called from the tombs and honorary monu¬ 
ments of Chaucer, Spenser, Shakspeare, and several of our 
greatest poets. Observe —Tomb of Geoffrey Chaucer, the 
father of English poetry (d. 1400); erected in 1555, by 
Nicholas Brigham, a scholar of Oxford, and himself a poet; 
—Chaucer was originally buried in this spot, Brigham re¬ 
moving his bones to a more honourable tomb (a committee 

* The word honorary, as here used, is meant to imply that the person 
to whom the monument is erected is buried elsewhere. 


XIV.—WgTMINSTER ABBEY—POETS’ CORNER. 107 

has been formed to restore this tomb). Monument to 
Edmund Spenser, author of the Faerie Queene; erected at 
the expense of ‘Anne Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomery,’ 
and renewed in 1778 at the instigation of Mason, the poet; 
—Spenser died in King-street, Westminster, “ from lack of 
bread,” and was buried here at the expense of Queen Eliza¬ 
beth’s Earl of Essex. Honorary monument to Shakspeare ; 
erected in the reign of George II., from the designs of Kent; 
—when Pope was asked for an inscription, he wrote 

“ Thus Britons love me, and preserve my fame, 

Free from a Barber’s or a Benson’s name.” 

We shall see the sting of this presently : Shakspeare stands 
like a sentimental dandy. Monument to Michael Drayton, 
a poet of Queen Elizabeth’s reign, erected by the same ‘ Anne 
Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomery; ’ the epitaph in verse by 
Ben Jonson, and very fine. Tablet to Ben Jonson, erected 
in the reign of George II., a century after the poet’s death. 
Honorary bust of Milton, erected in 1737, at the expense of 
Auditor Benson: “ In the inscription,” says Di’. Johnson, 
“ Mr. Benson has bestowed more words upon himself than 
upon Milton; ” so in the Dunciad— 

“ On poets’ tombs see Benson’s titles writ.” 

Honorary monument to Butler, author of Hudibras, erected 
in 1721, by John Barber, a printer, and Lord Mayor of 
London. Grave of Sir William Davenant, with the short 
inscription, “ 0 rare Sir William Davenant.” (May, the poet, 
and historian of the Long Parliament, was originally buried 
in this grave.) Monument to Cowley, erected at the expense 
of the second and last Villiers, Duke of Buckingham; the 
epitaph by Sprat. Bust of Dryden erected at the expense 
of Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham. 

“ This Sheffield raised : the sacred dust below 
Was Dryden once: the rest who does not know.”—Pojje. 

The bust by Scheemakers is very fine. Honorary monument 
to Shad well, the antagonist of Diyden, erected by his son. 
Honorary monument to John Philips, author of The Splendid 
Shilling (d. 1708). 

"When the inscription for the monument of Philips, in which he was 
said to be uni Miltmo secundus, was exhibited to Dr. Sprat, then Dean of 
Westminster, he refused to admit it; the name of Milton was in his 
opinion too detestable to be read on the wall of a building dedicated to 
devotion. Atterbury, who succeeded him, being author ot the inscription. 


108 XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY—POETs’ CORNER. 


permitted its reception. ‘And such has been the change of public 
opinion,’ said Dr. Gregory, from whom I heard this account, ‘ that I have 
seen erected in the church a bust of that man whose name I once knew 
considered as a pollution of its walls.”— Dr. Johnson. 

Monument of Matthew Prior, erected by himself, as the last 
piece of human vanity. 

“ As doctors give physic by way of prevention. 

Mat, alive and in health, of his tombstone took care : 

For delays are unsafe, and his pious intention 
May haply be never fulfill’d by his heir. 

“ Then take Mat’s word for it, the sculptor is paid: 

That the figure is fine, pray believe your own eye; 

Yet credit but lightly what more may he said. 

For we flatter ourselves and teach marble to lie.”— Prior. 

The bust, by A. Coysevox, was a present to Prior from 
Louis XIV., and the epitaph, written by Dr. Friend, famous 
for long epitaphs:— 

“ Friend, for your epitaphs I griev’d 
Where still so much is said; 

One half will never be believ’d. 

The other never read.”—Pope. 

Monument to Nicholas Rowe, author of the tragedy of Jane 
Shore, erected by his Avidow; epitaph by Pope. Monument to 
John Gay, author of The Beggars’ Opera; the short and 
irreverent epitaph, Life is a jest, d'c., is his OAvn composition ; 
the verses beneath it are by Pope. Statue of Addison, by 
Sir R. Westmacott, erected 1809. Honorary monument to 
Thomson, author of The Seasons, erected 1762, from the 
proceeds of a subscription edition of his works. Honorary 
tablet to Oliver Goldsmith, by Nollekens ; the Latin inscrip¬ 
tion by Dr. Johnson, who, in reply to a request that he would 
celebrate the fame of an author in the language in Avhich he 
Avrote, observed, that he never would consent to disgrace the 
Avails of Westminster Abbey with an English inscription. 
Honorary monument to Gray, author of An Elegy in a 
Country Churchyard (the verse by Mason, the monument by 
Bacon, R.A.). Honorary monument to Mason, the poet, and 
biographer of Gray (the inscription, it is said, by Bishop Hurd). 
Honorary monument to Anstey, author of the Bath Guide. 
Inscribed gravestone over Richard Brinsley Sheridan. Hono¬ 
rary bust of Robert Southey, by H. Weekes. Inscribed 
gravestone over Thomas Campbell, author of the Pleasures of 
Hope, and standing statue by W. C. Marahall, R.A. 

In that part of the South Transept not included in Poets’ 
Corner, Observe —Monument to Isaac Casaubon (1614), editor 
of Persius and Polybius. Monument to Ctunden, the great 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY—S. TRANSEPT. 109 


English antiquary (d. 1623); the bust received the injury, 
which it still exhibits, when the hearse and effigy of Essex, 
the Parliamentary general, were destroyed in 1646, by some 
of the Cavalier party, who lurked at night in the Abbey to 
be revenged on the dead. White gravestone, in the centre 
of transept, over the body of Old Parr, who died in 1635, at 
the great age of 152, having lived in the reigns often princes, 
viz., Edward IV., Edward V,, Richard III., Henry VII., 
Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary, Elizabeth, James I., and 
Charles I. Gravestone over the body of Thomas Chiffinch, 
closet-keeper to Charles II. (d. 1666). Monument to M. St. 
Evremont, a French epicurean wit, who fled to England to 
escape a government arrest in his own country (d. 1703). 
Bust of Dr. Isaac Barrow, the divine (d. 1677). Grave¬ 
stone over the body of the second wife of Sir Richard Steele, 
the “ Prue ” of his correspondence. Monument, by Roubiliac, 
to John, Duke of Argyll and Greenwich (d. 1743): the figure 
of Eloquence, with her supplicating hand and earnest brow, is 
very masterly; Canova was struck with its beauty; he said, 
“ That is one of the noblest statues I have seen in England.” 
Monument by Roubiliac (liis last work) to Handel, the great 
musician, a native of Halle, in Lower Saxony, and long a resident 
in England (d. 1759). Honorary monument to Barton Booth, 
the original Cato in Addison’s play. Honoi'ary monument 
to Mrs. Pritchard, the actress, famous in the characters of 
Lady Macbeth, Zara, and Mrs. Oakley (d. 1768). Inscribed 
gravestones over the bodies of David Garrick and Samuel 
Johnson. Monument to David Garrick, by H. Webber, 
erected at the expense of Albany Wallis, the executor of 
Garrick. 

“ T.aking a turn the other day in the Abbey, I was struck with the 
affected attitude of a figure which I do not remember to have seen 
before, and which, upon examination, proved to be a whole-length of the 
celebrated Mr. Garrick. Though I would not go so far with some good 
Catholics abroad as to shut players altogether out of consecrated ground, 
yet I own I was not a little scandalised at the introduction of theatrical 
airs and gestures into a place set apart to remind us of the saddest 
realities. Going nearer, I found inscribed under this harlequin figure a 
farrago of false thoughts and nonsense .”—Charles Lamb. 

Inscribed gravestones over the remains of James Macpherson, 
translator of Ossian; and of William Gifford, editor of Ben 
Jonson and the Quarterly Review. The painted glass in the 
Abbey -wdll be found to deserve a cursory inspection; the 
rich rose-^vindow in the Noidh Transept is old; the rose- 
window ill the South Transept the work (1847) of Messrs. 
Thomas Ward and J. H. Nixon. The wax-work exhibition, 


110 


XIV,—WESTMINSTER ABBEY—CLOISTERS. 


or The Play of the Dead Volks, as the common people called 
it, was discontinued in 1839. The exhibition originated in 
the old custom of making a lively effigy in wax of the de¬ 
ceased—a part of the funeral procession of every great person, 
and of leaving the effigy over the grave as a kind of tempo¬ 
rary monument. 

On leaving the interior of the Abbey, you may visit the 
Cloisters, on the south side, walking through St. Marga¬ 
ret’s churchyard, and entering Dean’s-yard, by the gateway 
opposite Scott’s Crimean monument. On the left of the 
Cloister doorway you pass the Jerusalem Chamber, in which 
the Upper House of Convocation meets, and where King 
Henry IV. died. 

“ King Henry. Doth any name particular belong 
Unto the lodging where I first did swoon? 

“ Warwick. ’Tis called Jerusalem, my noble lord. 

" King Henry. Laud be to God!—even there my life must end. 

It hath been prophesied to me many years, 

I should not die but in Jerusalem; 

Which vainly I supposed the Holy Land:— 

But bear me to that chamber; there IT1 lie; 

In that Jerusalem shall Harry die.” 

Shakspeare, Second Part of King Henry IV. 

Observe. —In S. cloister effigies of several of the early abbots. 
In E. cloister, monument to Sir Edmundsbury Godfrey, 
murdered in the reign of Charles II,; tablet to the mother 
of Addison, the poet; monument to Lieut. - General 
Withers, with epitaph by Pope. In W. cloister, monu¬ 
ment to George Vertue, the antiquary and engraver; 
monument, by T. Banks, R.A,, to Woollett, the engraver; 
tablet to Dr. Buchan, author of the work on Domestic Medi¬ 
cine (d. 1805). In the E, ambulatory, “ under a blue mai’ble 
stone, against the first pillar,” Aphra Behn was buried, April 
20th, 1689 ; and under stones no longer carrying inscriptions, 
ai'e buried Henry Lawes, ‘‘one who called Milton friend;” 
Betterton, the actor; Tom Brown, the wit; Mrs. Bracegirdle, 
the beautiful actress; and Samuel Foote, the dramatic writer 
and comedian. At the S.E. corner of the cloister are remains 
of Edward the Confessor’s buildings, including the Cliaptl of 
the Pix, where the instruments connected with the coinage 
of the realm, and the king’s treasure itself, were kept in 
ancient times. 

A small wooden door, in the S. cloister, leads to AsU- 
bu7'nham House, one of Inigo Jones’s best remaining works. 
The staircase is the perfection of beautiful design in clas¬ 
sic style, and the richly-ornamented doorway in the E, 
cloister leads to 


XIV.—WESTMINSTER ABBEY—CIIAFTER HOUSE. Ill 

The Chapter-house (an elegant octagon, supported by mas¬ 
sive buttresses, over a Norman crypt), a fine example of 
English-gothic ; built in 1250 by Henry III. It is historically 
interesting as “ the first home of the House of Commons,” 
to use the words of Dean Stanley. It was made over by the 
Convent of Westminster to the House of Commons in the 
reign of Edward I., and they sat in it for 300 years, until, in 
that of Edward VI., it was made a repository for public re¬ 
cords, not removed till 1860. It is about to be judiciously 
restored from a design prepared by Mr. G. G. Scott, which it 
is hoped may be thoroughly carried out. In 1866, parliament 
made a grant of 7000Z. for this purpose as an instalment of 
25,000^. Its roof is suppoi'ted by an elegant central pier, 
which served as a whi|)ping post when any of the monks trans¬ 
gressed. The entrance is in Poets’ Corner. Observe. —In 5 
compai’tments on the E. wall, and not unhke an altar-piece, 
“ Christ surrounded by the Christian Virtues,” a mural decoiu- 
tion of the 14 th centuiy. There are later paintings of St. John 
the Evangelist, but poor. The floor of heraldic tiles is fine. The 
roof stood till 1740; Wren, it is said, refused to remove it. 

The following eminent persons are buried in Westminster 
Abbey. (Those without monuments are in italics.) Kings 
AND Queens. —King Sebert; Edward the Confessor; 
Henry HI.; Edward I. and Queen Eleanor; Edward III. and 
Queen Philippa; Richard II. and his Queen; Henry V.; 
Edward V.; Henry VII. and his Queen; Anne of Cleves, 
Queen of Henry VIII.; Edward VI.; Mary I.; Maiy, 
Queen of Scots ; Queen Elizabeth; James I. and his Queen; 
Queen of Bohemia, daughter of James I. and mother of Prince 
Rupert: Charles II.; William III. and Queen Mary; Queen 
Anne; George II. and Queen Caroline. Statesmen.— Lord 
Chancellor Clarendon; Savile, Lord Halifax; Sir William 
Temple; Craggs; Pulteney, Earl of Bath; the great Lord 
Chatham; Pitt; Fox, Canning, and Castlereagh. Soldiers. 
—Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke; Sir Francis Vere ; 
Prince Rupert; Monk, Duke of Albemarle; William, Duke 
of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden; Marshal Wade. Sea¬ 
men. —Admiral Dean; Sir W. Spragg; Montague, Earl of 
Sandwich; Sir Cloudesley Shovel. Poets.— Chaucer, Spen¬ 
ser, Beaumont, Ben Jonson, Michael Drayton, Sir Robert 
Ayton, Sir W. Davenaut, Cowley, Denham, Roscommon, 
Dryden, Prior, Congreve, Addison, Rowe, Gay, Macpher- 
son, who gave “Ossian” to the public, R. B. Sheridan, and 
Thomas Campbell. Actors. — Betterton, Mrs. Oldfield, Mrs. 
Bracegirdle, Mrs. Cibber, the second Mrs. Barry, Henderson, 
and David Garrick. Musicians. — Henry Lawes, Purcell, Dr. 


112 


XIV.—ST. Paul’s cathedral. 


Blow, Handel. Divines. —Dr. Barrow, Dr. South. Antiqua¬ 
ries. —Camden, Spelman, Archbishop Usher. Other Eminent 
Persons. — Mountjoy, Earl of Devonshire, of the time of 
Queen Elizabeth; the unfortunate Arabella Stuart; the 
mother of Henry VII.; the mother of Lady Jane Grey ; 
the mother of Lord Darnley; Anne Hyde, Duchess of York, 
the mother of Queen Mary and Queen Anne; the wife of 
the Protector Somerset; the wife of the great Lord Burgh- 
ley; the wife of Sir Kobert Cecil; the Duke and Duchess 
of Newcastle (the poet and poetess); Villiers, first Duke 
of Buckingham, and his two sons, the profligate second 
duke, and Francis, killed when a boy in the Civil Wars ; 
the Duchess of Richmond (La Belle Stuart) ; the second Duke 
of Ormond, and Atterbury, Bishop of Rochester, both of whom 
died in banishment; Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham; Hak¬ 
luyt, who collected the early voyages which bear his name ; 
Sir Isaac Newton; Dr. Bus%, the schoolmaster; Dr. John¬ 
son, the moralist and lexicographer; Tom Killigrew and 
M. St. Evremont, the English and French epicurean wits; 
Aubrey de Vere, the twentieth and last Earl of Oxfoi'd of 
the house of Vere; and old Parr, who died (1635) at the 
great age of 152. “A Peerage or Westminster Abbey” 
was one of'^Nelson’s rewards; and when we reflect on the 
many eminent persons buried within its walls, it is indeed 
an honour. There is, however, some truth in the dying 
observation of Sir Godfrey Kneller—“By God, I will not 
be buried in Westminster ! - They do bury fools there.” 

ST. PAUL’S CATHEDEAL, the most marked feature in 
the architecture of London, and the noblest building in Great 
Britain in the Classic style, stands on the site of a Gothic church 
destroyed in the Fire of London. The principal approach 
to it is by Ludgate-hill, but it is too closely hemmed in by 
houses to be seen in detail to much advantage. The best 
general view of it is from the Thames, or Blackfriars Bridge. 

This is the Cathedral church of the See of Loudon. 
Entrance at the N. door. Divine Service is performed 
daily at 8 in the morning in the chapel;—at ^ before 10, 
and in the afternoon at ^ past 3 or 4 in the choir. Since 
1858 Evening Service is performed on Sunday, at 7 p. m., 
under the dome, an area affording seats for 3000 persons, while 
by the removal of the organ from the opening of the choir, 
the view extends from the west door to the altar. The 
doors are opened ^ of an hour before the beginning of each 
service. Visitors are admitted to inspect the whole building 
on week days, except during the time of Divine Service. 


XIV.—ST. Paul’s cathedral. 


113 


COST OF ADMISSION. 

Whispering, Stone, and Golden Galleries 


Ball. 


s. d. 
. 0 6 
. 1 6 


Library, Great Bell, and Geometrical Staircase ..06 

Clock.0 2 

Crypt—Wellington’s and Nelson’s Monument ..06 


Clock 


3 2 


General History .—The first stone was laid June 2l8t, 1675. . 
Divine service was performed for the first time Dec. 2nd, 
1697, on the day of thanksgiving for the peace of Ryswick, 

and the last stone laid-1710, 35 years after the first. 

It deserves to be mentioned that the whole Cathedral was 
begun and completed under one architect, Sir Christopher 
Wren ; one master mason, Mr. Thomas Strong; and while 
one bishop. Dr. Heniy Compton, presided over the diocese. 
The whole cost, 747,954Z. 2s. 9rf., was paid for by a tax on 
coals brought into the port of London, and the Cathedral, 
it is said, deserves to wear, as it does, a smoky coat in 
consequence. Exterior ,—The ground-plan is that of a Latin 
cross, with lateral projections at the W. end of the nave, 
in order to give width and importance to the W. front. 
Length from E. to W., 500 feet; breadth of the body of 
the church, 100 feet; campanile towers at the W. end, 
each 222 feet in height; and the height of the whole struc¬ 
ture, from the pavement to the top of the cross, 370 feet. 
Immense as the building looks and is, it could actually 
stand within St. Peter’s at Rome. The outer dome is of 
wood, covered with lead, and does not support the lantern 
on the top, which rests on a cone of brick raised between 
the inner cupola and outer dome. The course of balustrade 
at the top was forced on Wren by the commissioners for 
the building. “ I never designed a balustrade,” he says; 

“ ladies think nothing well without an edging.” The sculp¬ 
ture on the entablature (the Conversion of St. Paul) the 
statues on the pediment (St. Paul, with St. Peter and St. 
James on either side), and the statue of Queen Anne in 
front of the building, with the four figures at the angles, are 
all by F. Bird. The Phoenix over the S. door was the work 
of Cibber. The iron railing, of more than 2500 palisades, was 
cast at Lamberhurst, in Kent, at a cost of 11,202?. Os. Qd., 
and encloses upwards of two acres of ground. Observe .—The 
double portico at the W. end; the beautiful semicircular 
porticos, N. and S.; the use of two orders of architecture 
(Composite and Corinthian); and the general breadth and 
harmony of the whole building. 

hUtrivr .—The cupola, with the paintings upon it, is of 




114 


XIV.—ST. Paul’s cathedral. 


brick, 108 feet in diameter, mth stone bandings at every 
rise of 5 feet, and a girdle of Portland stone at the 
base, containing a double chain of iron strongly linked 
together at every 10 feet, and weighing 95 cwt. 3 qr. 
23 lb. The great defect of the interior is its nakedness 
and want of ornament. Wren’s first design of St. Paul’s 
was planned essentially for the Protestaut worship and 
service, and eonsisted of a large central dome, surrounded 
by eight minor cupolas, prolonged to the W. by another 
cupola, and faced with a grand portico. This was rejected 
through the influence of the Duke of York (afterwards 
James II.), who insisted on having a church mth the usual 
long nave and side aisles, adapted to the popish service. 
Sir Christopher shed tears in speaking of the change; but 
Tt was all in vain. The 8 paintings in the dome (by Sir 
James Thornhill), represent the principal events in the life 
of St. Paul. They have been restored. Dean Milman hopes 
also to obtain funds to carry out Wren’s intention to deco¬ 
rate the cupola with the more durable ornament of mosaic, 
and the windows with painted glass, one of which, executed 
at Munich, is inserted. It was the gift of Mr. Brown, pub¬ 
lisher, of the house of Longman, 1866. Observe .—In the 
choir the beautiful foliage, carved by Grinling Gibbons, and 
near the entrance to the choir, the inscription to Wren 
(si monumentum QUAiRis, circumspice), put there by Mylue, 
architect of Blackfriars Bridge. The organ (1694) was con¬ 
structed by Bei’nard Schmydt, the successful candidate 
against Harris at the Temple. The golden gallery was gilt 
at the expense of the Earl of Lanesborough, the “sober 
Lanesborough dancing with the gout” of Pope. Addison, 
in Spectator No. 60, makes the Indian IHug suppose that 
St. Paul’s was carved out of a rock. 

Tlte Monuments may be divided into two classes:—monu¬ 
ments to illustrious men, made additionally interesting as 
fine works of art, and those only interesting from the illus¬ 
trious persons they are designed to eommemorate. Among 
the works of art. Observe —Statue of John Howard, the 
philanthropist, by Bacon, R.A. (cost 1300 guineas, and was 
the first monument erected in St. Paul’s); of Dr. Johnson, 
by Bacon, E.A.; of Sir Joshua Reynolds, by Flaxman, R.A.; 
kneeling figure of Bishop Heber, by Chantrey, R.A. Among 
the monuments interesting from the persons they comme¬ 
morate— Observe —Those to Nelson, by Elaxman, R.A. (the 
loss of the right arm concealed by the union Jack);—to 
Lord Cornwallis, opposite, by Rossi, R.A. (supported by 
Indian river gods);—to Sir Ralph Abercrombie, by Sir R. 


E 



Statue of ^ueen Anne. 

GROUND PLAN OF ST. PAUL’S CATHEDRAL. 

1 2 





















116 


XIV.—ST. Paul’s cathedral. 


"VVestmacott, K.A.—to Sir John Moore, who fell at Coininua 
(Marshal Soult stood before it and -v vept ); statue of Lord 
Heathfield, the gallant defend^'of Gl&altar; monuments 
to Howe and Eodney, two of our great naval heroes;—to 
Nelson’s favourite, the brave and pious Lord Collingwood; 
statue of Earl St. Vincent, the hero of the battle off Cape 
St. Vincent; monuments to Picton and Ponsonby, who fell 
at Waterloo; to Sir Charles Napier, conqueror at Meea- 
nee; statues of Sir William Jones, the Oriental scholar. Sir 
Astley Cooper, the surgeon, Dr. Babington, the physician, 
&c. In the Crypt, — Observe. —Grave of Sir Christopher Wren 
(d. 1723, aged 91).—Grave of Lord Nelson (d. 1805), beneath 
the centre of the dome. The sarcophagus, which contains 
Nelson’s coffin, was made (it the expense of Cardinal Wolsey, 
for the burial of Henry VIII. in the tomb-house at Windsor ; 
and the coffin, which contains the body (made of part of the 
mainmast of the ship L’Orient), was a present to Nelson after 
the battle of the Nile, from his fiiend Ben Hallowell, captain 
of the Swiftsure. “ I send it,” says Hallowell, “ that when 
you are tired of this life you may be buiied in one of your 
own trophies.” Nelson appreciated the present, and for some 
time had it placed upright, with the lid on, against the bulk¬ 
head of his cabin, behind the chair on which he sat at 
dinner.—Grave of Lord Collingwood (d. 1810), commander 
of the larboard division at the battle of Trafalgar.—Grave of 
the great Duke of Wellington, d. 1852. A monument to the 
Duke is in progress. He lies in a sai’cophagus of Cornish 
porphyry of excellent form, in the Ci'ypt, adjoining Nelson. 
His funeral Car is also pi’eserved here. His monument, pro¬ 
vided by public subscription, is not yet begun (1866), a 
delay highly blameable. Near to his old leader lies Sir 
Thomas Picton, killed at Waterloo, interred here 1859.— 
Graves of the following celebrated English painters:— 
Sir Joshua Reynolds (d. 1792); Sir Thomas Lawrence (d. 
1830); James Bariy (d. 1806); John Opie (d. 1807); Ben¬ 
jamin West (d. 1820); Henry Fuseli (d. 1825); J. M. AY. 
Turner (d. 1851).—Gi’aves of eminent engineers :—Robert 
Mylne, who built Blackfriai'S Bridge (d. 1811); John Rennie, 
who built AVaterloo Bridge (d. 1821). Monuments from Old 
St. Paul's, preserved in the crypt of the present building. 
—Dean Colet, founder of St. Paul’s School; Sir Nicholas 
Bacon, father of the great Lord Bacon; Sir Christopher 
Hatton, Queen Elizabeth’s Lord Chancellor; Dr. Donne, the 
poet, in his shroud, by Nicholas Stone, and described by 
Izaak Walton in his Life of Donne. 

Ascent. —The ascent to the ball is by 616 steps, of which 


V 


XIV.—ST. Paul’s cathedral. 


117 


the first 260 are easy, and well-lighted. Here the Whispering 
Gallery will give you breath ; but the rest of the ascent is a 
dirty and somewhat fatiguing task. Clock Room. —In the 
south-western tower is the clock, and the great bell on which 
it strikes. The length of the minute-hand of the clock is 8 
feet, and its weight 75 lb.; the length of the hour-hand is 5 
feet 5 inches, and its weight 44 lb. The diameter of the 
bell is about 10 feet, and its weight is 11,474 lb., the hammer 
weighing 145 lb., and the clapper 180 lb. It is inscribed, 
“Richard Phelps made me, 1716,” and is never used except 
for the striking of the hour, and for tolling at the deaths 
and funerals of any of the royal family, the Bishops of 
London, the Deans of St. Paul’s, and, should he die in 
his mayoralty, the Lord Mayor. The Whispenng Gallery is so 
called, because the slightest whisper is transmitted from 
one side of the gallery to the other with great rapidity 
and distinctness. The Stone Gallery is an outer gallery, and 
affords a fine view of London on a clear day. The Inner 
Golden Gallei'y is at the apex of the cupola and base of the 
lantern. The Outer Golden Gallery is at the apex of the 
dome. Here you may have a still more extensive view of 
London if you will ascend early in the morning, and on a 
clear day. The Ball and Cross stand on a cone between the 
cupola and dome. The construction is very interesting, and 
will well repay attention. The ball is in diameter 6 feet 
2 inches, and will contain 8 persons, “without,” it is said, 
“pai’ticular inconvenience.” This, however, may well be 
doubted. The weight of the ball is stated to be 5600 lb., 
and that of the cross (to which there is no entrance) 3360 lb. 
The last public procession to St. Paul’s (the funeral of tho 
Duke of Wellington in 1852 excepted) was on Thursday, 
July 7th, 1814, when the Duke of Wellington carried the 
sword of state before the Prince Regent, on the day of 
general thanksgiving for the peace. 

Haydn said that the most powerful effect he ever felt from 
music was from the singing of the charity children in St. 
Paul’s. Endeavour to attend at the festival held on the 
first Thursday in June, when the charity children of the 
metropolis are all collected under the Dome. 

St. Paul's Church-yard is an irregular circle of houses en¬ 
closing St. Paul’s Cathedral and burial-ground. The statue 
of Queen Anne, before the W. front of tho church, was 
the work of Francis Bird, a poor sculptor. Mr. Newbery’s 
shop at the corner of St. Paul’s Church-yard is occupied by 
Messrs. Griffith and Farrar, who deal, like their predecessor, 
in books for children. 


118 XIV.—ST. BARTHOLOMEW THE GREAT—ST. SAVIOUR. 

St. BARTHOLOMEW the GREAT, West Smithfield, in 
the ward of Farringdon Without, was the choir and transept 
of the church of the Priory of St. Bartholomew, founded 
in the reign of Henry I, (circ. 1102), by Rahere, “ a pleasant- 
witted gentleman, and therefore in his time called the King’s 
minstrel.” This unquestionably is one of the most inter¬ 
esting of the old London churches. There is much good 
Norman work about it, and its entrance gate from Smithfield is 
an excellent specimen of Early English with the toothed orna¬ 
ment in its mouldings. The tower is of brick, seventeenth 
century, erected over the only bay of the nave remaining. 
This church was restored 1865-66; 12 feet of earth w’as dug 
out from within its walls. The chief feature is the Norman 
E. apse, four stilted round arches, resting on massive columns, 
and three larger columns and wider arches in the nave. 
Parts are of the Perp. period, and the rebus of Prior Bolton, 
who died in 1632 (a holt through a turi), fixes the date when 
the alterations were made. The roof is of timber. The 
clerestory is Early English. On the N. side of the altar is 
the canopied tomb, with effigy, of Rahere, the first Prior of 
his foundation, much later than his decease, and a fine speci¬ 
men of Perp. Over against the founder’s tomb is the 
spacious monument to Sir Walter Mildmay, Under-Chan¬ 
cellor of the Exchequer in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and 
founder of Emmanuel College, Cambridge (d. 1589). The 
bust (near Mildmay’s monument) of James Rivers (d. 1641), 
is probably the work of Hubert Le Soeur, who lived in Bar¬ 
tholomew-close, hard by. The parish register records the 
baptism (Nov. 28th, 1697) of William Hogarth, the painter. 
In the market, just opposite St, Bartholomew’s Gate, stood 
the stake at which the victims of Popish intolerance, during 
the reign of Bloody Queen Mary, were burned alive. See 
Smithfield. 

St. saviour, Southwark, was the church of the Priory 
of St. Mary Oveiy, and was firet erected into a parish churcli 
by Henry VIIL in 1540. After Westminster Abbey, St. 
Saviour’s, Southwark, contains the finest specimens of Early 
English in London. Nothing, however, remains of the old 
church but the choir and the Lady chapel. The nave was 
taken down 1840, to the disgrace of the parish, without 
due cause, and the present unsightly structure built. The 
altar-screcn in the choir (much like that at Winchester) 
was erected at the expense of Fox, Bishop of Winchester 
(d. 1528), and bears his device, the pelican. The choir was 
restored in 1822, and the Lady chapel in 1832. In the reign 


XIV.—ST. SAVIOUR—THE TEMPLE CHURCH. 119 


of Maiy I. the Lady chapel of St. Saviour’s was used, during 
the Marian persecution, by Bishop Gardiner, (d. 1555), as a 
court for the trial of heretics. Monuments .—Effigy of knight 
cross-legged, in north aisle of choir. To John Gower, the 
poet (d. 1402); a Perp. monument, originally erected on the 
N. side of the church, in the chapel of St. John, where Gower 
founded a chantry. The monument was removed to its 
present site, and repaired and coloured in 1832, at the 
expense of Gower, first Duke of Sutherland. 

“ He [Gower] lieth under a tomb of stone, with his image also of stone 
over him: the hair of his head, aubiuTi, long to his shoulders but curling 
up, and a small forked beard; on his head a chaplet like a coronet of 
four roses; a habit of purple, damasked down to his feet; a collar of 
esses gold about his neck; under his head the likeness of three books 
which he compiled.”—/Siow, p. 152. 

Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of Winchester (d. 1626); a black 
and white marble monument in the Lady chapel, with his 
effigy at full-length. When St. John’s chapel was taken 
down, his leaden coffin was found, with no other inscription 
than L.A. (the initials of his name). John Trehearne, gen¬ 
tleman porter to James I .; half-length of himself and wife 
(upright). John Bingham, saddler to Queen Elizabeth and 
James I. (d. 1625). Alderman Humble. Lockyer, the 
famous empiric in Charles II.’s reign (d. 1672); a rueful 
full-length figure in N. transept. Eminent Persons tuned 
in, and graves unmarked.—Sir Edward Dyer, Sir Philip 
Sydney’s friend; he lived and died (1607) in AVinchester 
House,adjoining. Edmund Shakspeare, “player” (the poet’s 
youngest brother), buried in the church, 1607. Lawrence 
Fletcher, one of the leading shareholders in the Globe and 
Blackfriars Theatres, and Shakspeare’s “ fellow; ” buried in 
the church, 1608. Philip Henslowe, the manager, so well 
known by his curious Account Book or Diary; buried in the 
chancel, 1615-16. John Fletcher (Beaumont’s associate), 
buried in the church, 1625. Philip Massinger (the dramatic 
poet), buried in the churchyard, March 18th, 1638-9. The 
houses in Doddington-grove, Kennington, are built on the 
three-feet surface of earth removed from the “Cross-Bones 
Burial Ground ” of St. Saviour’s, Southwark. 

The TEMPLE CHURCH, a little south of Temple Bar, 
was the church of the Knights Templar, and is divided into 
two parts, the Round Church and the Choir. The Round 
Church (transition Norman work) was built in the year 1185, 
as an inscription in Saxon characters, formerly on the stone¬ 
work over the little door next the cloister, recorded, and 
dedicated by Heraclius, Patriarch of Jerusalem; the Choir 


120 


XIV.—THE TEMPLE CHURCH. 


(pure Early English) was finished in 1240. The restorations 
and alterations, made 1839-42, at a cost of 70,000Z., amount¬ 
ing nearly to the re-constmction of the Choir, are in correct 
12th and 13th cent^ taste. The monuments to several dis¬ 
tinguished men, architecturally out of place, were i-emoved 
from the arcades in which they were first erected, and are 
now placed in the Triforium. Off the cork-screw stairs 
leading to it is a cell, for the bell-ringer, with a squint 
(lychnoscope) bearing upon the high altar. Observe. —En¬ 
trance doorway (very fine);—two groups of monumental 
effigies, on the pavement in Eound Church, of Knights 
Templar, cross-legged (names imknown, at least very un¬ 
certain) ; the figure between the two columns on the S.E. 
having a foliage-ornament about the head, and the feet 
resting upon a lion, represents, it is said, William Marshall, 
Earl of Pembroke (d. 1119), Earl Marshal and Protector of 
England during the minority of Henry III. On the left of 
the altar is the monument of white marble, to the learned 
Selden (d. 1654 ; he is buried beneath); and in the Trifo¬ 
rium the tombs of Plowden, the jurist; Martin, to whom 
Ben Jonson dedicates his Poetaster; Howell, the letter- 
writer (d. 1666). In the burial-ground east of the choir, 
lies Oliver Goldsmith. The place is undistinguished; but 
a tablet erected in a recess on the north side of the Choir 
commemorates the circumstance. The Round of this church 
was used as a place where lawyers received their clients, each 
occupying his particular post, like a merchant upon ’Change. 
The incumbent at the Temple is called Master of the Temple, 
and was once an office of greater dignity and reputation than 
it is now. The learned and judicious Hooker*, author of the 
Ecclesiastical Polity, was for six years Master of the Temple 
—a place,” says Izaak Walton, “ which he accepted rather 
than desired.” Travers, a disciple of Cartwright, the Non¬ 
conformist, was then lecturer; and Hooker, it was said, 
preached Canterbury in the forenoon, and Travers Geneva in 
the afternoon. The Benchers were divided; and Travers, 
being first silenced by the Archbishop, Hooker resigned, and 
in his quiet parsonage of Boscombe renewed the contest in 
print, in his Ecclesiastical Polity. In the S. W. angle of the 
choir is a bust of Hooker by Mr. Gatley, erected 1851, at 
the expense of the benehers. In this church Archbishop 
Usher preached the funeral sermon of the learned Selden. 
The organ was made by Father Schmydt, or Smith, in 
honour-able competition with a builder of the name of 
Harris. Blow and Purcell, then in their prime, performed 
on Father Smith’s organ on appointed days; and till Harris’s 


121 


XIV.—ST. Helen’s, bishopsgate street. 

was heard, every one believed that Smith’s must be chosen. 
Harris employed Baptiste Draghi, organist to Queen Cathe¬ 
rine, “to touch his organ,” which brought it into favour; 
and thus the two continued vieing with each other for near a 
twelvemonth. The decision at length was left to the noto¬ 
rious Judge Jefferies, who decided in favour of Father Smith. 
Smith excelled in the diapason, or foundation stops; Harris 
principally in the reed stops. The choral services on a 
Sunday are well performed, and well attended. The Round 
of the church is open to all, but the Choir is reserved for 
the Benchers and students. Strangers are admitted by 
the introduction of a member of either Temple. The keys 
of the church are with the porter, at the top of Inner 
Temple-lane. 

ST. HELEN’S, Bishopsgate Street, on the E. side of 
Bishopsgate-street Within, near its j unction with Gracechurch- 
street, the church of the Priory of the Nuns of St. Helen’s, 
founded (circ. 1216) by “William, the son of William the 
Goldsmith,” otherwise William Basing, Dean of St. Paul’s. 
The interior is divided into two aisles, of nearly equal pro¬ 
portions, with a small transept abutting from the main 
building. There is little in the architecture to attract atten¬ 
tion, in general design or even in detail. The windows are 
irregular—^the roof poor and heavy, but the monuments are 
old, numerous, and interesting. Observe .—Sir John Crosby, 
Alderman (d. 1475), and Ann, his wife, the founder of 
Crosby Hall; an altar-tomb, with two recumbent figures, the 
male figure with his alderman’s mantle over his plate armour. 
—Sir Thomas Gresham (d. 1579), the founder of the Royal 
Exchange; an altar-tomb, inscribed—‘‘ Sir Thomas Gresham, 
Knight, buried Dec. 15th, 1579.” Stow tells us that it was 
Gresham’s intention to have built a new steeple to the church 
“ in recompense of ground filled up with his monument.”— 
John Leventhorp (d. 1510), in armour; a brass.—Sir William 
Pickering, and his son (d. 1542, d. 1574); a recumbent figure 
of the father in armour, beneath an enriched marble canopy. 
—Sir Andrew Judd, Lord Mayor (d. 1558); a monument 
against the wall, with male and female figures kneeling at a 
desk. This Sir Andrew Judd (who is here represented in 
armour) was founder of the Free Grammar School at Tun¬ 
bridge, and of the Almshouses in the neighbourhood which 
bear his name.—Sir Julius Ca3sar (d. 1636), Master of the 
Rolls, and Under-Chancellor of the Exchequer, in the reign 
of James I.: the same Sir Julius Caesar of whom Lord Claren¬ 
don tells the amusing story, “ Remember Caesar.” 


122 


XIV.—ST. PANCRAS-IN-THE-FIELDS. 


“ His epitaph is cut on a black slab, in front of a piece of parchment, 
with a seal appendant, by which he gives his bond to Heaven to resign 
his life willingly whenever it should please God to call him. ‘ In cnjus 
rei testimonium manum meam et sigillum apposui.’ ”— Pennant. 

This monument was the work of Nicholas Stone, and cost 
llOZ.—Sir John Spencer, Lord Mayor in 1594, from whom 
the Marquis of Northampton derives the Spencer portion of 
his name, Spencer-Compton.—Francis Bancroft, the founder 
of Bancroft’s Almshouses. 

“ He is embalmed in a chest made with a lid, having a pair of hinges 
without any fastening, and a piece of square glass on the lid just over 
his face. It is a very plain monument, almost square, and has a door 
for the sexton, on certain occasions, to go in and clear it from dust and 
cobwebs.”— Noorthouck’s Hist, of Land., 4to, 1773, p. 557. 

ST. GILES, Cripplegate, one of the oldest and most 
venerable churches in London, interesting as the burial 
place of Milton, who composed “ Pai’adise Lost ” in a house 
in Barbican, in this parish (pulled down 1864). It was 
built in 1545, and escaped the fire. The tower is furnished 
with a peal of fourteen bells, one of the finest and sw'eetest 
in London, upon which chimes play every three hours. It 
was restored in 1864 as a memorial to Milton, see the tombs 
of Milton, of Fox the Martyrologist, and of Speed, the 
Chronicler. Oliver Cromwell was married in St. Giles ; 
and the register records the burial of Defoe in this neigh¬ 
bourhood. 

ST. PANCEAS-in-the-FIELDS (old church) near the 
Midland Eailway Terminus, is an interesting little church 
enlarged by Mr. A. D. Gough. The burial-ground, of less 
than 4 acres, has been used as a place of sepulture for 
at least six centuries, and contains the remains of at least 
20 generations. The monuments deserve examination. 
Observe .—^Against S. wall of chancel a tablet, surmounted by 
a palette and pencils, to Samuel Cooper, the miniature painter 
to whom Cromwell sat so often (d. 1672): the arms are those 
of Sir Edward Turner, Speaker of the House of Commons in 
the reign of Charles II., at whose expense it is probable the 
monument was erected. In the churchyard, near the church 
door, and on your right as you enter, is a headstone to 
William Woollett, the engraver (d. 1785), and his widow 
(d. 1819). At the further end of the churchyard, on the 
N. side, is an altar-tomb to William Godwin, author of Caleb 
Williams (d. 1836), and his two wives; Mary Wolstonecraft 
Godwin, author of A Vindication of the Rights of Woman, 
the mother of Mrs. Shelley (d. 1797); and Mary Jane 
(d. 1841). Neai’ the sexton’s house is a headstone to John 


XIV.—SAVOY CHURCH. 


123 


Walker, author of the Pronouncing Dictionary of the English 
Language (d. 1807). Here were buried, as the register 
records :—Jeremy Collier (d. 1726), the writer against the 
immoinlity of the stage in the time of Dryden.—Ned Ward 
(d. 1731), author of the London Spy. His hearse was 
attended by a single mourning coach, containing only his 
wife and daughter, as he had directed it should be in his 
poetical will, written six years before he died.—Lewis Theo¬ 
bald (d. 1744), the hero of the early editions of the Dunciad, 
and the editor of Shakspeare. In this church (Feb. 13th, 
1718-19), Jonathan Wild was married to his third wife. 

ST. MARY-LE-SAVOY lies between the River and the 
Stmnd, and was the chapel of the Hospital of St. John the 
Baptist A Perp. edifice, erected in the reign of Henry VI1. 
on the site of the Palace of the Savoy, originally built in 
1245 for Peter, Count of Savoy, uncle to Eleanor, Queen of 
Henry III. It is the property of the Crown, as part of the 
Duchy of Lancaster (though now used as a District Church), 
and was restored by Queen Victoria, 1865, after a fire in 
1864, which destroyed the roof, and all but the walls. 
Observe —The new wood ceiling is an exact copy of the old ; 
its 138 compartments being filled with sacred devices, or 
arms of the Dukes of Lancaster. The E. end is ornamented 
with Gothic niches, and a painted window of the Crucifixion 
by Willement, as a memorial from the Queen of the Prince 
Consort. The font and cover were given as a memorial of 
Peter de Wint and W. Hilton, R.A., both buried in the 
churchyard, by the widow of the former. The pulpit was 
given by the family of Burgess, of the Strand. Here were 
before the fire a recumbent figure of the Countess Dow¬ 
ager of Nottingham (d. 1681). Brass, on floor, of the 
chapel, marking the grave of Gawain Douglas, Bishop of 
Dunkeld (d. 1522), the translator of Virgil. Monument by 
M. L. Watson, erected 1846, to Dr. Cameron, the last person 
executed on account of the rebellion of 1745. Tablet, erected 
by his widow, to Richard Lander, the African traveller (d. 
1834). Eminent Persons interred here without monuments .— 
George, third Earl of Cumberland, father of Lady Anne 
Clifibrd, died in the Duchy House in 1605; bowels alone 
buried here. George Wither, the poet (d. 1667), “between 
the E. door and S. end of the church.” Lewis de Duras, 
Earl of Feversham (d. 1709); he commanded King James 
II.’s troops at the battle of Sedgemoor. 

The meetings at the Restoration of Charles II. of the 
commissioners for the revision of the Liturgy took place in 


124 XIV.—ST. Paul’s, coyent garden—bow church. 


the Savoy; twelve bishops appearing for the Established 
Church; and Calamy, Baxter, Reynolds, and others, for the 
Presbyterians. This assembly is known in English history 
as “ Savoy Conference.'' Fuller, author of The Worthies, 
was at that time lecturer at the Savoy, and Cowley, the poet, 
a candidate at Court for the office of master. 

ST. PAUL’S, CovENT Garden, on the W. side of the 
market, was built by Inigo Jones, circ. 1633, at the expense 
of the ground landlord, Francis, Earl of Bedford; repaired, 
in 1727, by the Earl of Bui'lington; totally destroyed by fire. 
Sept. 17th, 1795; and rebuilt (John Hardwick, architect) on 
the plan and in the proportions of the original building. 
The parish registers record the baptism of Lady Mary Wortley 
Montagu, and the burials of the following Eminent Persons .— 
The notorious Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset (d. 1645).— 
Samuel Butler (d. 1680), author of Hudibras. He died in 
Rose-street. 

“He [Butler] dyed of a consumption, Septemb. 25 (Anno D"'- 1680), 
and buried 27, according to his owne appointment in the church-yard of 
Covent Garden; sc. in the north part next the church at the east end. 
His feet touch the wall. His grave, 2 yards distant from the pilaster of 
the dore (by his desire), 6 foot deepe. About 25 of his old acquaintance 
at his funerall: I myself being one.”— Aubrey's Lives, ii. 263. 

Sir Peter Lely, the painter (d. 1680). His monument, with 
his bust by Gibbons, and his epitaph by Flatman, shared the 
fate of the church when destroyed by fire in 1795.—Edward 
Kynaston (d. 1712), the celebrated actor of female parts at 
the Restoration; a complete female stage beauty. William 
Wycherley (d. 1715), the dramatist. He died in Bow-street. 
—Grinling Gibbous (d. 1721), the sculptor and carver in 
wood.—Susannah Centlivre (d. 1723), author of The Busy 
Body and The Wonder.—Dr. Arne, the composer of Rule 
Britannia (d. 1778).—Dr. John Armstrong, author of the Art 
of Preserving Health, a poem (d. 1779).—Sir Robert Strange, 
the engraver (d. 1792).—Thomas Girtin, the father of the 
school of English water colours (d. 1802).—Charles Macklin, 

_tiie actor (d. 1797), at the age of 107.—^ohn Wolcot (Peter 

^^"^Pindar), d. 1819. In front of this church the hustings are 
^ raised for the general elections for Westminster. Here, 
before the Reform Bill, raged those fierce contests of many 
i days’ duration, in which Fox, Sir Francis Burdett, and others 
V were popular candidates. 

ST. MARY-LE-BOW, in Cheapside, commonly called 
'‘Bow Chiirch,” is one of Wren’s masterpieces. “No other 
modern steeple,” says Fergusson (Modern Architecture), 


XIV.—BOW CHURCH—ST. BRIDE. 


125 


can compare Avith this, either for beauty of outline or 
appropriate application of classical details.” Observe .— 
The fine old Norman crypt: lYren used the arches of 
the old church to support his own superstructure. It is 
now a vault, and concealed in parts by piles of coffins; the 
interior is poor. The Court of Arches (an Ecclesiastical 
Court so called) derives its name from the arched vault 
under Bow Church, in Avhich the court was originally held 
—the church itself derives its name from its being the first 
church in London built on arches of stone. ‘‘Bow-bells” 
have long been and are still famous. 

“ In the year 1469 it was ordained by a Common Council that the Bow- 
Bell should be nightly rung at nine of the clock. Shortly after, John 
Donne, mercer, by his testament dated 1472, gave to the parson and 
churchwardens two tenements in Hosier Lane to the maintenance of 
Bow Bell, the same to be rung as aforesaid, and other things to be 
observed as by the will appeareth. This Bell being usually rung some¬ 
what late, as seemed to the young men, prentices, and others in Cheap, 
they made and set up a rhyme against the clerk as followeth: 

‘ Clerk of the Bow Bell, with the yellow lockes. 

For thy late ringing thy head shall have knocks.’ 

Whereunto the Clerk replying wrote 

‘ Children of Cheape, hold you all still. 

For you shall have the Bow Bell rung at your will.” 

Stow, p. 96. 

People bom within the sound of Bow-bells are usually called 
Cockneys. Beaumont and Fletcher speak of “ Bow-bell 
suckers,” i. e., as Mr. Dyce properly explains it, “ children 
born within the sound of Bow-bell.” The present set of 
bells, 10, were cast 1762. All differ in weight,—the smallest 
weighing 8 cwt. 3 qr. 7 lb., and the largest 53 cwt. 22 lb. 
Pope has confirmed the reputation of these bells in a cele¬ 
brated line:— 

“ Far as loud Bow’s stupendous bells resound.” 

The tower is 235 ft. high, the dragon on the top is 8 ft. 
10 in. long. The balcony in the tower overlooking Cheap- 
side had its origin in the old seldam or shed in which our 
kings used to sit to see the jousts and ridings in Cheapside. 

ST. BRIDE, or ST. BRIDGET, Fleet-street, one of Wren’s 
architectural glories, was completed in the year 1703, at the 
cost of 11,430^. The steeple, much and deservedly admired, 
was, as left by Wren, 234 feet in height, but in 1764, when 
it AVEis stmck with lightning, and otherwise seriously injured, 
it Avas reduced 8 feet. Wren took the idea of its construc¬ 
tion from the Avhoi’ls of a particular species of univalve shell. 
The interior has many admirers—less airy perhaps than St. 


126 


XIV.—ST. MAGNUS, LONDON BRIDGE. 


James’s, Piccadilly, but still extremely elegant. The stained 
glass window (a copy from Rubens’s Descent from the Cross) 
was the work of Mr. Muss. In the old church were buried : 
—Wynkin de Worde, the printer.—Sir Richard Baker, author 
of the Chronicle (d. 1644-5, in the Fleet Prison).—Richard 
Lovelace, the poet (d. 1658). In the present church were 
buried:—Ogilby, the translator of Homer.—Sandford, author 
of the Genealogical History.—Richardson, author of Clarissa 
Harlowe, and a printer in Salisbury-square (d. 1761); his 
grave (half hid by pew No. 8, on the S. side) is marked by a 
hat stone, about the middle of the centre aisle. 

ST. MICHAEL’S, Cornhill, one of the handsomer city 
churches since its restoration and decoration under Mr. 
G. G. Scott. Observe .—The noble tower, the work of 
Wren, and yet Gothic in style, the carved portal; the 
rich altar-piece of marble and granite, including figures 
of Moses and Aaron by Straiker (temp. Charles II.), snr- 
mounted by a wheel window,—filled, as well as 5 other 
windows, with modern painted glass (subjects, the history 
of our Lord).—The wood carvings of the pulpit. Royal pew, 
and bench ends, are by Rogers; the pelican carved by G. 
Gibbons. 

ST. STEPHEN, Walbrook, immediately behind the Man¬ 
sion House, is one of Wren’s most celebrated churches. The 
exterior is impromising, but the interior is all elegance and 
even grandeur. The lights are admirably disposed through¬ 
out. The arrangement is peculiar; a circular dome or an 
octagonal base, resting on 8 pillars. The walls and columns 
are of stone, but the dome is formed of timber and lead. 
The east window, by Willement, was erected at the expense 
of the Grocers’ Company. Sir John Vanbrugh, the architect 
and wit (d. 1726), lies buried in the family vault of the 
Vanbrughs, in this church. 

ST. MAGNUS, London Bridge, is by Wren. The cupola 
and lantern are much admired. The foot-way under the 
steeple was made (circ. 1760) to widen the road to old London 
Bridge. Some difficulty was expected at the time, but Wren 
had foreseen the probability of a change, and the alteration 
was effected with ease and security. On the S. side of the 
communion-table is a tablet to the memory of Miles Coverdale, 
rector of St. Magnus and Bishop of Exeter, under whose 
direction, Oct. 4th, 1535, “the first complete printed English 
version of the Bible was published.” When the church of 
St. Bartholomew-by-the-Exchange was taken down, his remains 
were reverently taken care of and here interred. 


127 


XIV.—ST. James’s, Piccadilly. 

ST. JAMES’S, Piccadilly, Westminster. Was built 
(1682-84) by Sir Christopher Wren, and erected at the ex¬ 
pense of Heniy Jeriuyn, Earl of St. Albans, the patron of 
Cowley, and the husband, it is said, of Henrietta Maria, the 
widow of Charles I. The exterior of the church is of red 
brick with stone quoins, and is mean and ugly in the extreme. 
The interior is a masterpiece, light, airy, elegant, and capacious 
—well worthy the study of an architect. It is Wren’s chef- 
d^ceuvre in this way—and especially adapted to the Protestant 
Chm’ch service. 

“ I can hardly think it practicable to make a single room so capacious, 
with pews and galleries, as to hold above 2000 persons, and all to hear 
the service, and both to hear distinctly and see the preacher. I en¬ 
deavoured to effect this in building the parish church of St. James, 
Westminster, which I presume is the most capacious with these 
qualifications that hath yet been built; and yet at a solemn time when 
the church was much crowded I could not discern from a gallery that 
2000 persons were present in this church I mention, though very broad, 
and the nave arched up. And yet, as there are no walls of a second 
order, nor lantern, nor buttresses, but the whole roof rests upon the 
pillars, as do also the galleries, I think it may be found beautiful and 
convenient, and as such the cheapest form of any I could invent.”— Sir 
Christopher Wren. 

The marble font, a very beautiful one, is the woi'k of Grinling 
Gibbons. The missing cover (represented in Vertue’s en¬ 
graving) was stolen, and, it is said, subsequently hung as a 
kind of sign at a spirit-shop in the immediate neighbourhood 
of the church. The beautiful foliage over the altar is also 
from the hand of Gibbons. The organ, a very fine one, was 
made for James II., and designed for his popish chapel at 
Whitehall. His daughter. Queen Mary, gave it to the church. 
The painted window at the E. end of the chancel, by Wailes 
of Newcastle, was inserted in 1846. 

Eminent Persons interred in. —Chai’les Cotton, Izaak 
Walton’s associate in The Complete Anglei-.—Dr. Sydenham, 
the physician.—The elder and younger Vandervelde. On a 
grave-stone in the church is, or was, this inscription : “ Mr. 
William Vandervelde, senior, late painter of sea-fights to 
their Majesties King Charles II. and King James, dyed 1693.” 
—Tom d’Urfey, the dramatist (d. 1723). There is a tablet 
to his memory on the outer S. wall of the tower of the 
church.—Henry Sydney, Eax’l of Romney, the handsome 
Sydney of De Grammont’s Memoirs (d. 1704). There is a 
monument to his memory in the chancel.—Dr. Arbuthnot 
(d. 1734-5), the friend of Pope, Swift, and Gay.—Mark 
Akenside, M.D., author of The Pleasures of Imagination.—Sir 
William Jones, the Oriental Scholar.—Dodsley, the book¬ 
seller, and William Yarrell the Naturalist.—James Gillray, the 


128 


XIV.—ST. MARTIN-IN-THE-FIELDS. 


caiicaturist: in the churchyard, beneath a flat stone on the 
W. side of the rectory.—Sir John Malcolm, the eminent 
soldier and diplomatist.—The register records the baptisms of 
the polite Earl of Chesterfield and the great Earl of Chatham. 
The portraits of the rectors in the vestry, include those of 
Tenison and Wake, afterwards Archbishops of Canterbury, 
and of Samuel Clarke, author of The Attributes of the Deity. 

ST. MARY WOOLNOTH, Lombard Street, was designed 
by Nicholas Hawksmoor (d. 1736), the “domestic clerk” 
and assistant of Sir Christopher Wren, and bmlt in 1716, on 
the site of an old church of the same name, ‘Hhe I’eason 
of which name,” says Stow, “ I have not yet learnt.” This 
is the best of Hawksmoor’s churches, and has been much 
admired. The exterior is bold, and at least original; the 
interior effective and well-proportioned. Observe .—Tablet to 
the Rev. John Newton (Cowper’s friend), rector of this church 
for 28 years (d. 1807). It is thus inscribed :— 

“ John Newton, clerk, once an infidel and libertine, a servant of slaves 
in Africa, was, by the inch mercy of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, 
preserved, restored, pardoned, and appointed to preach ,the faith he had 
long laboured to destroy.” 

ST. MARTIN-in-the-FIELDS (now Trafalgar-square) was 
built by Gibbs, 1721-26, at a cost of 36,891^. 105. 4d, in¬ 
cluding 1500?. for an organ. The portico is one of the finest 
pieces of architecture in London. The interior is so con¬ 
structed that it is next to impossible to erect a monument, 
The steeple is heavy, but well-proportioned; its position, 
however, is awkward, since it appears to weigh down the 
portico. In the vaults may be seen the old parish whipping¬ 
post, and the Tombs of Sir Theodore Mayerne (physician to 
James I. and Charles I.), and of Secretary Coventry, from 
whom Coventry-street derives its name. St. Martin’s-in-the- 
Fields originally included the several parishes of St. Paul’s, 
Covent-garden; St. James’s, Westminster; St. Ann’s, Soho; 
and St. George’s, Hanover-square ; extending as far as Mary-le- 
bone to the N., Whitehall on the S., the Savoy on the E., 
and Chelsea and Kensington on the W. St. Paul’s, Covent- 
garden, was taken out of it in 1638; St. James’s, Westminster, 
in 1684 ; and St. Ann’s, Soho, in 1686. About the year 1680 
it was, what Burnet calls it, “the greatest cure in England,” 
with a population, says Richard Baxter, of 40,000 persons 
more than could come into the church, and “ where neigh¬ 
bours,” he adds, “ lived, like Americans, without hearing a 
sermon for many years.” Fresh separations only tended to 
lessen the resources of the paiish, and nothing was done to 


XIV.—ST. George’s, iianover square. 


129 


improve its appeai’aiice till 1826, wlieu the mews and the 
churchyard were removed and the present Trafalgar-square 
commenced. Eminent persons luned. —Hilliard, the miniature 
painter (d. 1619).—Paul Vansomer, the painter (d. 1621).—Sir 
John Davys, the poet (d. 1626).—N. Laniere, the painter and 
musician (d. 1646).—Dobson, called the English Van Dyck 
(d. 1646).—Stanley, the editor of .^schylus (d. 1678).—Nell 
Gwynne, in the church (d. 1687).— Hon. Kobert Boyle, the 
philosopher (d. 1691).—Lord Mohun, who fell in a duel with 
the Duke of Hamilton (d. 1712).—Jack Sheppard (d. 1724).— 
Farquhar, the dramatist (d. 1707).—Roubiliac, the sculptor 
(d. 1762).—James Stuart, author of the Antiquities of Athens, 
&c. (d. 1788).—John Hunter, the surgeon (d. 1793), removed 
to Westminster Abbey.—^James Smith, one of the authors 
of the Rejected Addresses (d. 1839). The register records 
the baptism of Lord Bacon, born, 1561, in York House, in 
the Strand, on the site of Buckingham-street. 

ST. GEORGE’S, Hanover Square, was built by John 
James, upon ground given by Gen. W. Stewart, of Gartb, who 
also contributed to the structure: it was consecrated 1724. 
This was one of the fifty new churches raised at that 
time. It contains 3 good painted windows dating about 1620, 
brought from Mechlin, and purchased by subscription, re¬ 
presenting a Tree of Jesse. In this church (the most 
fashionable church for mariiages in London, in which the 
Duke of Wellington gave away so many brides) Sir Wm. 
Hamilton was married. Sept. 6, 1791, to the Lady Hamil¬ 
ton, so intimately connected with the story of Lord Nelson. 
Her name in the register is Emma Harte. Here the late 
Duke of Sussex was married (1793), as ‘‘Augustus Frede¬ 
rick,” to Lady Augusta Murray. 

In the burial-ground on the road to Bayswater, belonging 
to this parish, and near the W. wall, Laurence Sterne, the 
author of Tristram Shandy, is buried. His gi'ave is distin¬ 
guished by a plain headstone, set up with an unsuitable 
inscription, by a tippling fraternity of Freemasons. He 
died (1768) in Old Bond-street, in this parish. Here also was 
buried Sir Thomas Picton, who fell at Waterloo, but his 
remains were removed 1859 to St. Paul’s Cathedral. 

In the modern classic style. Observe —Churches of ST. 
MARYLEBONE (in the Marylebone Road) and ST. PAN- 
CRAS (in the Euston Road). St. Marylebone was built, 
1813-17, by Thomas Hardwick, and cost 60,000^. St. Pan- 
eras was built, 1819-22, by the Messrs. Inwood, and cost 

K 


130 


XIV.—ALL SAINTS CHURCH. 


76,679?. 7s. 8cl. Wren’s beautiful cburch of St. Mary-le-Bow 
cost infinitely less than even St. Marylebone. 

The church of ST. STEPHEN, Westminster, in Rochester- 
row, near Tothill fields (a London purheu), is a beautiful speci¬ 
men of modern Gothic, with a tall spire, built, 1847-49, by 
Benj. Ferrey, at the sole expense of Miss Burdett Coutts. The 
tower interferes within with the harmony of the building, 
but the details throughout are excellent. The stained glass 
by Willement is in his best style. The altar-cloth -was pre¬ 
sented by the Duke of Wellington. 

ST. JAMES, Garden-street, Vauxhall-road, (Edmd. Street, 
arch.), built 1861, at a cost of 9,000?., by the Misses Monk, 
good in design and original in style, of coloured brick. It 
has a fine stately detached tower. The interior decorations 
should be seen. 

ALL SAINTS’ CHURCH, Margaret-street, Regent-street, 
one of the most original and sumptuous Gothic churches in 
London, consecrated 1859, though begun 1850, when Dr. 
Pusey laid the first stone. It is the result of private bene¬ 
factions, to which Mr. Ti'itton, the banker, gave 30,000?., Mr. 
Beresford Hope, 10,000?., and it is said to have cost 60,000?. 
Butterfield is the architect. It is built of variegated brick, is 
partly concealed by two projecting houses, and is surmounted 
by a spire. Its size is not great, but the roof rises 75 feet. 
Observe .— The rich intei’nal decorations of marble, almost all 
British,—the piers of polished granite,—the capitals of white 
alabaster admirably carved,—the low choir screen also of 
alabaster,—the painted windows by Gerente,—the east end 
wall entirely painted in fresco by Dyce, in compartments,— 
the Nativity, the Crucifixion, the Saviour, Virgin, and 12 
Apostles. The font and baptistry, also of marble, were given 
by the Marquis of Sligo. 

ST. ALBAN’S, in a court near Gray’s Inn-lane, also by 
Butterfield, and good in style. Here the Services of the 
Church of England may be witnessed in a form differing as 
little as possible from those of a popish chapel. Priests in 
silken robes turning their backs to the people, genuflexions, 
incense, and elevation of the host. 

CATHOLIC APOSTOLIC CHURCH (IRVINGITE), 
Gordon Square, one of the best modern examples of good 
early Gothic character, designed by Brandon. It is cruci¬ 
form in plan, extending 180 feet, but is not yet finished. 


XIV.—CHURCHES—ROMAN CATHOLIC CATHEDRAL. 131 . 


The choir rises in three stages; on the lowest are various 
lecterns ; the second is allotted for the stalls of “ the 
Elders,” and the throne of “ the Angel; ” while on the 
highest stands the Altar. Behind it is a sort of vestry- 
chapel. The tower is unfinished. There is some modern" 
painted glass. 

WESLEYAN CHAPEL, in the City Road, over against 
the entrance to Bunhill-fields (described in Section xv.). Be¬ 
hind the chapel is the gi'ave of John Wesley (d. 1791). The ' 
tomb which covers it was reconstructed in 1840 during the 
ceutenaiy of Methodism. In the chapel is a tablet to Charles 
Wesley (d. 1788), “the first who received the name of Me¬ 
thodist.” 

WHITEFIELD’S CHAPEL, on the W. side of Tottenham 
Court Road, was built in 1756, by subscription, under the 
auspices of the Rev. George Whitefield, founder of the 
Methodists. Whitefield preached (Nov. 7th, 1756) the first 
sermon in the chapel to a very crowded audience. Mrs. 
Whitefield (d. 1768) is bulled here; and here, on a monu-^ 
ment to her memory, is an inscription to her husband, who \ 
dying in New England, in 1770, was buried at Newbury ) 
Port, near Boston. John Bacon, R. A., the sculptor, is buried ' 
under the N. gallery. A good specimen of his talents as a 
sculptor may be seen in a bas-relief in tliis chapel. 

ROWLAND HILL’S CHAPEL, or “Surrey Chapel,” is in x 
the Black FRIARS Road. The chapel was built for Hill, a ) 
distinguished follower of Whitefield, 1782-3, and here he y 
preached for nearly 50 years. 

SCOTTISH CHURCHES. 

National Scotch Church, Crown Court, Long Acre. 

Dr. Cumming, minister. Service 11 a,m. and 7 p.m. 

Swallow St., Piccadilly. 

Scottish (Free) Church, Regent-square. Built for Rev. 
Edward Irving, and where the unknown tongues he believed 
in were first heard. Actual minister, the eloquent Dr. 
Hamilton. 

The principal Roman Catholic Edifices in London are:— 

ST. GEORGE’S CATHEDRAL, at the angle of the St. 
George’s and Westminster Roads, in the so-called Roman 
Catholic diocese of Southwark (the largest Roman Catholic 
church erected in this country since the Reformation), built, 
1840-48, from the designs of A. W. Pugin. It is without 

K 2 


132 


XIV.—FOREIGN CHURCHES. 


galleries, but heavy, dark and low, will hold 3000 people, 
and is said to have cost 30,000?. The style is Decorated or 
Middle-pointed Gothic, and the material used hard yellow 
brick, with dressings of Caen stone. The Petre Chantry, 
founded for the repose of the soul of the Hon. Edward Petre 
(d. 1848), the High Altar, the Pulpit, and the Font are all 
rich in their architectural details. The tower is still un¬ 
finished. 

Roman Catholic Chapel (St. Mary’s), in Moorfields 
(East-street, Finsbury-circus), built about 1826. Here Weber 
was buried till the removal of his remains to Dresden, in 1844. 

Berkeley Mews Chapel —approached from South-street 
and Hill-street, Berkeley-square. 

Bavarian Chapel, Warwick-street, Regent-street, occupying 
the site of the Roman Catholic chapel destroyed in the riots 
of 1780. 

Sardinian Chapel, Duke-street, Lincoln’s-Inn-fields. 

Spanish Chapel, Spanish-place, Manchester-square. 

In York-street, St. James’s-square, is the Chapel of former 
Embassies, with the arms of Castile still remaining on the 
building. 

French Chapel, Little George-street, King-street, Portman- 
square. 

High Mass begins generally at 11 a.m. and Vespers at 6 p.m. 
Extra full Masses are performed on the first Sunday in the 
month, on High Feasts and Festivals, Christmas-day, Easter- 
day, &c. To secure a sitting, it is necessary to pay a shilling 
and attend about an hour before the service begins. In most 
of the Chapels, the music is very grand and impressive, and 
finely perfoi'med by eminent professional characters, the 
members of the Italian Opera Company assisting at their 
grand festivals. For further information, see “The Cathohc 
Directory and Ecclesiastical Register.” 

GERMAN LUTHERAN CHAPEL, St. James’s Palace, 
between it and Marlborough House. 

. GERMAN LUTHERAN CHURCH in the Savoy. 

GERMAN EVANGELICAL CHURCH, Walton-street, 
Islington, founded 1861. There are 60,000 Germans resid¬ 
ing in and about London. 

FRENCH PROTESTANT CHURCH, formerly in the 
Savoy, is now in Bloomsbury-street, Bloomsbury. Ambrose 
Poynter, arch., 1845. 


XIV,—FOREIGN CHURCHES. 


133 


FRENCH PROTESTANT CHURCH, founded by Edward 
VI., and formerly in Threadneedle-street, on the site of the 
Hall of Commerce, is now in St. Maii;in’s-le-grand, over 
against the General Post Office. 

The DUTCH CHURCH, in Austin Friars, a 6ne Dec. 
Gothic building (1243), given to the Dutch congregation by 
Edward VI., 1550, has been admirably restored, since a 
fire which nearly destroyed it in 1862. It is the nave only of 
an Augustine Church, of which the choir and transepts were 
destroyed temp. Henry VIII. The open wood roof dates 
from 1864, 

GREEK CHAPEL, for the Russian Embassy, entered 
from a private house (No. 32), Welbeck-street, is in the 
Byzantine style, surmounted by a dome, and painted within, 
in that style. 

The SWEDISH CHURCH, in Prince’s Square, Rat- 
CLIFFE Highway. Here Baron Swedenborg (d. 1772), 
founder of the sect of Swedenborgians, is buried. 

The DANISH CHURCH is in Wellclose Square, White¬ 
chapel, now the British and Foreign Sailors’Church. It was 
built in 1696, by Caius Gabriel Cibber, the sculptor, at the 
expense of Christian V., king of Denmark, as appears by the 
inscription over the entrance, who gave it for the use of his 
subjects, merchants, and seamen, accustomed to visit the port 
of London. Within the church is a tablet, the second on your 
right hand as you enter, to the wife of Caius Gabriel Cibber 
(Jane Colley), the mother of Colley Cibber. The father and 
son are both interred in the vaults of this church. Attached 
to the pulpit is a handsome frame of brass with four sand- 
gl^ses, and immediately opposite is the “ Royal Pew,” in 
which Christian VII., King of Denmark, sat, when on a visit 
to this country, in 1768. 

JEWS’ SYNAGOGUE, Great St. Helen’s, St. Mary Axe, 
Leadenhall Street. Divine service here begins an hour 
before sunset every Friday. The most imposing ceremonies 
take place at the time of the Passover (Easter time). In the 
Jews’ Burial Ground, in Whitechapel-road, a continuation of 
Whitechapel High-street, N. M. Rothschild (d. 1836), long 
the leading stock-broker of Europe, and the founder of 
the Rothschild family, was buried. 

For further information, see Low’s Handbook to the places 
of Public Worship in London, price Is. Qd. 


134 


XV.—CEMETERIES. 


XV.-CEM ETERI ES, 

The principal places of sepulture were, till 1855, our 
churches and churchyards. St. George’s Chapel, in the Bays- 
water-road, contains 1120 coffins beneath its pavement—and 
the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields a still greater number. 
For several years prior to 1848 there had been upwards of 
1000 burials a year within St. George’s burial ground. Yet 
this great nuisance is situated in the very heart of the ex¬ 
pensive houses in Hyde-Park-gardens. The Norman vault 
of St. Mary-le-Bow, in Cheapside (the great thoroughfare 
of London), is literally crammed with leaden coffins piled 
30 feet high, all on the lean from their own immense 
weight, and covered with cobwebs and fungi. The church¬ 
yard of St. Paul’s, Covent-garden, (another central cemetery), 
is the narrow place of sepulture of two centuries of the 
inhabitants of that parish. The more obnoxious graveyards 
were closed by order of the General Board of Health, pur¬ 
suant to Act of Parliament; numerous cemeteries have been 
formed since 1852 in the environs of London. 

KENSAL GKEEN CEMETERY is on the Harrow Road, 
about 24 miles from the Paddington Station of the Great 
Western Railway. Omnibus to the Cemetery Gates, leaving 
the Oxford and Cambridge Tei-race portion of the Edgeware- 
road, several times a day. Remember that the cemetery is 
closed on Sundays till morning service is over. It was 
formed by a joint-stock company in 1832, and yields a good 
dividend to the proprietors. It occupies 18 acres, and 
already contains the remains of 70,000 persons. It is 
divided into (a) a consecrated ground for the Church of Eng¬ 
land, and (6) an unconsecrated space for Dissenters. There is 
much bad taste in art exhibited in this cemetery, and four 
of the most conspicuous tombs are to St. John Long, the 
quack doctor ; Ducrow, the rider; Morison, inventor of a 
pill; and George Robins, the auctioneer. Eminent Persons in¬ 
terred in .—Duke of Sussex, son of George III. (d. 1843), 
and the Princess Sophia, daughter of George III. (d. 1848)! 
The whole of the Royal Family had been previously interred 
in the royal vault at Windsor, but the Duke of Sussex 


XV.—KENSAL GREEN CEMETERV. 


135 


left particular directions that he should bo buried iu the 
cemetery at Keusal Green. The duke’s grave is near the 
chapel, and is marked by an enormous granite tomb. Anne 
Scott and Sophia Lockhart, daughters of the Author of 
Waverley, and John Hugh Lockhart, the “Hugh Little¬ 
john” of the Tales of a Grandfather; monument in inner 
circle. Allan Cunningham (d. 1842), author of the Lives 
of British Paintei’s, Sculptors, &c.; monument in the N.W. 
corner of the cemeteiy. John Murray, of Albemaiie-street, 
the publisher, and friend of Lord Byron (d. 1843); monu¬ 
ment in inner circle. Rev. Sydney Smith, in the public 
vault, catacomb B. Thomas Barnes (d. 1841), for many 
years editor of “ The Times ” newspaper; altar-tomb. Tom 
Hood, the poet and wit (d. 1845), a colossal bust near 
Ducrow’s monument. John Liston, the actor, the original Paul 
Pry (d. 1846); altar-tomb, surmounted by an urn, on the left 
of the chapel. J. C. Loudon (d. 1843), celebrated for bis 
works on gardening; altar-tomb. George Dyer, the historian 
of Cambridge, editor of Valpy’s Delphin Classics, and the 
“ G. D.” of Charles Lamb (d. 1841). Sir Augustus Callcott, 
the painter (d. 1844); flat stone. Dr. Bii'kbeck, the pro¬ 
moter of Mechanics’ Institutions (d. 1841). Sir William 
Beatty (d. 1842), Nelson’s surgeon at the battle of Trafalgar; 
tablet in colonnade. Thomas Daniell, R.A., the landscape 
painter (d. 1840); altar-tomb. Sir Mark Isambard Brunei, 
Engineer of the Thames Tunnel, inventor of the Block 
Machinery, &c., on left of the main avenue; Sir William 
Moles worth (d. 1855), Editor of Hobbes, &c.; Sir Charles 
Locke Eastlake, P.R.A.; and Thomas Hood. 

The other modem Cemeteries are— Highgate, beautifully 
situated : fine view of London, well worth visiting: here 
lies Lord Lyndhurst (d. 1863), aged 92. In the old church- J 
yard, close to the Chomely Schools, under an arcade are 
the graves of S. T, Coleridge the poet, his daughter, Sarah, 
and his son-in-law. Abney Park, 3^ m. E. from Post-office, 
containing a statue, by Baily, of Dr. Isaac Watts, who re¬ 
sided here with Sir Thomas Abney. Brompton, 2 miles 
from Hyde-Park-corner, on the road to Fulham. To the 
E. of London, Victoria Cemetery, Tower Hamlets Ceme¬ 
tery, the City of London Cemetery, at Ilford, in Essex, 
Nunhead Cemetery, and Norwood Cemetery, where David 
Roberts, landscape painter, is bux'ied, both on the Surrey 
side. Woking, near Guildford, a station on the S. W. Rail¬ 
way. Colney Hatch, a station on the Great Northern 
Railway. Of these cemeteiies, Highgate and Norwood will 
alone repay a visit. 


136 


XV.—BUNHILL FIELDS. 


BUNHILL FIELDS BURIAL GROUND, near Finsbury 
Square, called by Southey “ the Campo Santo of the Dis¬ 
senters,” was first made use of as a pest-field or common 
place of interment during the Great Plague of London in 
1665. It then lay open to the fields, and is the ‘‘great pit 
in Finsbury” of De Foe’s narrative. When the Plague was 
over, the pit was inclosed with a brick wall, “ at the sole 
charges of the City of London,” and subsequently leased by 
several of the great Dissenting sects, who conscientiously 
objected to the burial-service in the Book of Common Prayer. 
What stipulation was made with the City is unknown, but 
here all the interments of the Dissenters fi’om this time 
forward took place. Eminent Persons interred in. —Dr. Thomas 
Goodwin (d. 1679), (altar-tomb, east end of ground,) the 
Independent preacher who attended Oliver Cromw'ell on his 
death-bed. Cromwell had then his moments of misgiving, 
and asked of Goodwm, who was standing by, if the elect could 
never finally fall. “Nothing could be more true,” was Good¬ 
win’s answer. “ Then am I safe,” said Cromwell: “ for I am 
sure that once I was in a state of grace.”—Dr. John Owen 
(d. 1683), Dean of Christ Church, and Vice-Chancellor of 
Oxford when Cromwell was Chancellor. He was much in 
favour with his party, and preached the first sermon before 
the Parliament after the execution of Charles I. — John 
Bunyan, author of The Pilgrim’s Progress, died 1688, at the 
house of his friend Mr. Strudwick, a grocer, at the Star on 
Snow-hill and was buried in that friend’s vault in Bunhill 
Fields’ Burial-ground. Modern curiosity has marked the 
place of his interment with a brief inscription, but his name 
is not recorded in the Register, and there was no inscription 
upon his gx'ave when Curll published his Bunhill Field In¬ 
scriptions, in 1717, or Strype his edition of Stow, in 1720. 
It is said that many have made it their desire to be interred 
as near as possible to the spot where his remains are deposited. 
—George Fox (d. 1690), the founder of the sect of Quakers; 
there is no memorial to his memnry.—Lieut.-Gen. Fleetwood 
(d. 1692), Lord Deputy Fleetwood of the Civil Wars, Oliver 
Cromwell’s son-in-law, and husband of the widow of the 
gloomy Ireton; there was a monument to his memory in 
Strype’s time, since obliterated or removed.—John Dunton, 
bookseller, author of his own Life and Errors.—Daniel de 
Foe (d. 1731), author of Robinson Crusoe. He was born 
(1661) in the parish of St. Giles’s, Cripplegate, and was buried 
in the great pit of Finsbury, which he has described in his 
“Plague Year” with such terrific reality. Susannah Wesley 
(d. 1712), wife of the Rev. Samuel Wesley, and mother of 


XVI.—WESTMINSTER HALL. 


137 


John Wesley, founder of the Metliodists.—Dr. Isaac Watts ^ 
(d, 1748). There is a monument to his memory, near the J 
centre of the ground.—Joseph Eitson, the antiquary (d. 
1803).—William Blake, painter and poet (d. 1828); at the 
distance of about 25 feet from the north wall in the grave 
numbered 80; no monument.—Thomas Stothard, R.A. (d. 
1834), best known by his “Canterbury Pilgrimage,” his 
“ Robinson Crusoe,” and his illustrations to the Italy and 
smaller poems of Rogers. In this cemetery, consisting of 
less than 4 acres, there have been interred, from April, 1713, 
to August, 1832, according to the registry,—in the earlier 
years, however, very imperfectly kept—107,416 dead bodies. 

[See Places of Burial of Eminent Persons.] 


XVI.-COURTS OF LAW AND JUSTICE. 

It is intended to remove the Courts of Law, now divided 
between Guildhall and the Old Bailey, in the City, West¬ 
minster Hall and Lincoln’s Inn (Court of Chanceiy), and 
concentrate them in one grand edifice or Palace of Justice, 
to be erected between St. Clement’s Church, Strand, and 
Fleet-street, near Temple Bar and Lincoln’s lun. Temple 
Bar will probably be removed, and a bridge for foot pas¬ 
sengers thrown over Fleet-street, connecting the Temple 
with the New Courts. The ground has been purchased by ^ 
Parliament. 

WESTMINSTER HALL. The old Hall of the Palace of 
our Kings at Westminster, well and wisely incorporated by 
Sir Chai’les Barry into his Houses of Parliament. It was 
originally built in the reign of William Rufus (Pope calls 
it “Rufus’ roaring Hall”); and during the refacing of 
the outer walls (1848-52), a Norman arcade of the time of 
Rufus was uncovered. The present Hall was built, or rather 
repaired, 1397-99 (in the last three years of Richard II.), j 
when the walls were raised two feet ; the windows altered ; / 
and a stately porch and new roof constructed according 
to the design of Master Henry Zenely. The stone mould¬ 
ing or string-course that runs round the Hall preserves the 
white hart couchant, the favourite device of Richard II. 
The roof, with its hammer beams (carved with angels), is 
of oak, and the finest of its kind in this country. Fuller 
speaks of its “cobwebless beams,” alluding to the vulgar 



138 


XVI.—WESTMINSTER HALL. 


belief tliat it was built of a particular kind of wood (Irish oak) 
in which spiders cannot live. It is more curious, because 
true, that some of our early Parliaments were held in this 
Hall, and that the first meeting of Parliament in the new 
edifice was for deposing the very King by whom it had been 
built. The Law Courts of England, four in number, of 
which Sir Edward Coke observed that no man can tell which 
of them is most ancient, were permanently established in 
Westminster Hall in 1224 (9th of King Henry III.); and 
here, in certain courts abutting from the Hall, they are still 
held, though there is a project to remove them. These 
courts are the Court of Chancery, in which- the Lord 
Chancellor sits (salary 10,000Z. a-yeari; the Court of Queen's 
Bench, in which the Lord Chief Justice of the Queen’s 
Bench sits (salary, 8000?. a-year); the Court of Common 
Pleas, presided over by a Chief Justice (salary, 7000?. a- 
year), and the Court of Exchequer. The courts were origin¬ 
ally within the Hall itself, and the name Westminster Hall 
is not unfrequently used for the law itself. The highest 
Court of Appeal in the Kingdom is the House of Lords, 
presided over by the Lord Chancellor; and it sometimes 
happens that the judgments of the Law Courts in Westmin¬ 
ster Hall are reversed in the Lords. 

Let the spectator picture to himself the appearance w^hich 
this venerable Hall has presented on many occasions. Here 
were hung the banners taken from Charles I. at the battle of 
Kaseby; from Charles II. at the battle of Worcester; at 
Preston and Dunbar; and, somewhat later, those taken at 
the battle of Blenheim. Here, at the upper end of the Hall, 
Oliver Cromwell was inaugurated as Lord Protector, sitting 
in a robe of purple velvet lined with ermine, on a rich cloth 
of state, with the gold sceptre in one hand, the Bible richly 
gilt and bossed in the other, and his sword at his side ; and 
here, four years later, at the top of the Hall fronting Palace- 
yard, his head was set on a pole, with the skull of Ireton on 
one side of it and the skull of Bradshaw on the other. Here 
shameless ruffians sought employment as hired witnesses, 
and walked openly in the Hall with a straw in the shoe to 
denote their quality ; and here the good, the great, the brave, 
the wise, and the abandoned have been brought to trial. 
Here (in the Hall of Eufus) Sir William Wallace was tried 
and condemned; in this veiy Hall, Sir Thomas Moi’e and 
the Protector Somerset were doomed to the scafibld. Here, 
in Henry VIII.’s reign (1517), entered the City apprentices, 
implicated in the murders on “Evil May Day” of the 
aliens settled in London, each with a halter round his neck. 


XVI.—OLD BAILEY SESSIONS HOUSE. 


139 


and crying “Mercy, gracious Lord, mercy,” while Wolsey 
stood by, and the King, beneath his cloth of state, heard 
their defence and pronounced their pardon—the prisoners 
shouting with delight and casting up their halters to the 
Hall roof, “ so that the King,” as the chroniclers obseiwe, 

“ might perceive they were none of the descreetest sort,” 
Here the notorious Earl and Countess of Somerset were tried 
in the reign of James I. for the murder of Sir Thomas Over¬ 
bury. Here the great Earl of Strafford was condemned; the 
King being present, and the Commons sitting bareheaded all 
the time. Here the High Court of Justice sat which con¬ 
demned King Charles I., the upper part of the Hall hung 
with scarlet cloth, and the King sitting covered, with the 
Kaseby banners above his head; hei’e Lilly, the astrologer, who 
was present, saw the silver top fall from the King’s staff, and 
others heard Lady Fairfax exclaim, when her husband’s name 
was called over, “ He has more wit than to be here.” Here, 
in the reign of James IL, the seven bishops were acquitted. 
Here Dr. Sacheverel was tried and pronounced guilty by a 
majority of 17. Here the rebel Lords of 1745, Kilmarnock, 
Balmerino, and Lovat, were heard and condemned. Here 
Warren Hastings was tried, and Burke and Sheridan grew 
eloquent and impassioned, while senators by birth and 
election, and the beauty and rank of Great Britain, sat 
earnest spectatoi’s and listeners of the exti’aordinary scene. 
The last public trial in the Hall was Lord Melville’s in 1806 ; 
and the last coronation dinner in the Hall was that of 
George IV., when, according to the custom maintained for 
ages, and for the last time probably, the King’s champion 
(Dymocke) rode into the Hall in full armour, and threw 
down the gauntlet, challenging the world in a King’s behalf. 
Silver plates were laid, on the same occasion, for 334 guests. 

This noble Hall is 290 feet long, by 68 feet wide, and 110 
feet high. It is the largest apai’tment not supported by 
pillars in the world. (See also Houses of Parliament). 

THE OLD BAILEY SESSIONS HOUSE, or Central 
Criminal Court, in the Old Bailey, adjoining Newgate, for 
the ti’ial and conviction of prisoners for offences committed 
within 10 miles of St. Paul’s, is regulated by Act of Parlia¬ 
ment, 4 & 5 Will. IV., c. 36. In the “ Old Coui’t ” sit one or 
more of the judges in Westminster Hall. In the New Court 
the presiding judges are the Recorder and Common Serjeant 
of the Corporation of London. Upwards of 2000 persons, 
annually, are placed at the bar of the Old Bailey for trial; J 
about one-third are acquitted, one third are first offences, and ) 


140 


XVI.—rOLICE COURTS. 


the remaining portion have been convicted before. The 
stranger is admitted on payment of at least Is. to the officer 
whose perquisite it is, but this perquisite is regulated by 
the officer himself, according to the importance of the trials 
that are on. Over the Court-room is a Dining-room, where 
the judges dine when the Court is over—a practice com¬ 
memorated by a well-known line— 

“ And wretches hang that jurymen may dine.” 

Adjoining the Sessions House is the prison called “Newgate.” 
[See Index.] 

The Metropolitan County Courts, holding a summary 
jurisdiction over debts and demands not exceeding 50/., are 
eleven in number. The judges are barristers appointed by 
' the Lord Chancellor. The Bankimptcy Court is in Basinghall- 
* street, in the City; the Insolvent Debtors Court in Portugal- 
street, Lincoln’s-Inn-Fields. 

CLERKENWELL SESSIONS HOUSE, the next in import¬ 
ance to the Old Bailey, was originally Hicks’s Hall. The 
Law Court was removed hither in 1782. A fine James I. 
chimney-piece from the old Hall is one of the interior deco¬ 
rations of the House. 

The City Police Courts are at the Mansion House and 
Guildhall, where the Lord Mayor, or the sitting Alderman, 
are the magistrates who decide cases or send them for trial. 

The Police Courts connected with the Metropolitan Police 
are eleven in number, under the control of the Secretary of 
State for the Home Department, presided over by 23 Bar¬ 
risters of at least seven years’ standing at the bar. They 
sit daily, Sundays excepted. The Metropolitan Courts are— 
Bow-street, Clerkenwell, Great Marlborough-street, Greenwich 
and Woolwich, Hammersmith and Wandsworth, Lambeth, 
Marylebone, Southwark, Thames, Westminster, Worship- 
street ; and the amount of Fees, Penalties, and Forfeitures, 

, levied and received by the Metropolitan Police in one year 
is about 10,000/. The expense of the Force is defrayed by 
an assessment limited to 8 c/. in the pound on the parish 
rates, the deficiency being made up by tlie Treasury. 

The Metropolitan Police Force consists of 6116 men, paid 
at .various rates, averaging 203. a-week, with clothing, and 
40 lbs. of coal weekly to each married man all the year; 
40 lbs. weekly to each single man during six months, and 
20 lbs. weekly during the remainder of the year. The total 
_-cost for one year is 400,389/.; for the City alone, 48,172/. 


XVII.—INNS OF COURT—THE TEMPLE. 


141 


Before 1829, when the present excellent Police Force (for "n 
which London is wholly indebted to Sir Robert Peel) was j 
fii-st introduced (pursuant to 10 George IV., c. 44), the 
watchmen, familiarly called “Charlies,” who guarded the 
streets of London, were often incompetent and feeble old men, 
totally unfitted for their duties. The Police is now com¬ 
posed of young and active men, and the Force that has proved 
perfectly effective for the metropolis (having saved it more 
than once from Chartist and other rioters, and from calamities 
such as befel Bristol in 1831) has since been introduced with 
equal success nearly throughout the kingdom. 

The Policemen are dressed in blue, and have marked on 
their coat-collar the number and letter of their division! The 
City Police marking is in yellow ; the Metropolitan in white. 
Every man is furnished with a baton, a rattle, a lantern, an 
oil-skin cape, and a great-coat, and carries on his right wrist 
a white band while on duty. It is estimated that each con¬ 
stable walks from 20 to 25 miles a day. During 2 months 
out of 3, each constable is on night duty, from 9 at night till 
6 in the morning. 


XVll.-INNS OF COURT AND INNS OF CHANCERY. 

INNS OF COURT, “the noblest nurseries of Humanity 
and Liberty in the kingdom,” are four in number— 
TempUy Middle Temple^ Lincoln's Inn, and Gray's Inn. They 
are called Inns of Court, from being anciently held in the 
“ AulaRegia,” or Court of the King’s Palace. Their government 
is vested in “ Benchers,” consisting of the most successful 
and distinguished members of the English Bar—a numerous 
body, “ eomposed of above 3080 Barristers, exclusive of the 
28 Serjeants-at-Law.” No person can be called to the bar 
at any of the Inns of Court before he is 21 years of age, and 
a standing of 5’years is understood to be required of every 
member before being called. The members of the several 
Universities, &c., may be called after 3 years’ standing. Every 
student may, if he choose, dine in the Hall every day during 
term. A bottle of wine is allowed to each mess of four. 

The TEMPLE is a liberty or distriet, divided into the 
Inner Temple and Middle Temple. It lies between Fleet- 
street and the Thames, and was so ealled from the Knights 
Templar, who made their first London habitation in Holborn, 
in 1118, and removed to Fleet-street, or the New Temple, 




142 


XVII.—THE TEMPLE. 


in 1184. Spenser alludes to this London locality in his 
beautiful Prothalamion:— 


“ those hricky towers 

The which on Thames’ broad aged back doe ride, 

Wliere now the studious lawyers have their bowers, 

There whilom wont the Templar Knights to bide. 

Till they decayed through pride.” 

At the doAvnfall of the Templars, in 1313, the New Temple 
in Fleet-street was given by Edward IL to Aymer de Valence, 
Earl of Pembroke, whose tomb, in Westminster Abbey, has 
called forth the eulogistic criticism of the classic Flaxman. 
At the Earl of Pembroke’s death the property passed to 
the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, by whom the Inner 
and Middle Temples were leased to the students of the 
Common Law, and the Outer Temple to Walter Stapleton, 
Bishop of Exeter, and Lord Treasurer, beheaded by the 
citizens of London in 1326. No change took place when the 
Temple property passed to the Crown, at the dissolution 
of religious houses, and the students of the Inns of Court 
remained tenants of the Crown till 1608, when James I. 
conferred the Temple (now so called) on the Benchers of the 
two societies and their successors for ever. There are two 
edifices in the Temple well worthy of a visit: the Temple 
Church (serving for both Temples. See Churches), and the 
Middle Temple Hall. 

Middle Temple Hall, 100 feet long, 42 feet wide, and 47 
feet high, was built in 1572, while Plowden, the well-known 
jurist, was Treasurer of the Inn. The roof is the best piece 
of Elizabethan architecture in Loudon, and will well repay 
inspection. The screen, in the Eenaissance style, is said to 
have been formed in exact imitation of the Strand front of 
old Somerset House, but this is a vulgar erroi’, like the 
tradition which relates that it was made of the spoils of the 
Spanish Armada, the records of the Society proving that it 
was set up thirteen years before the Armada put to sea. 
Here are marble busts of Lords Eldon and Stowell,byBehnes. 
The portraits are chiefly copies, and not good. The exterior 
was cased with stone, in wretched taste, in 1757. We flrst 
hear of Shakspeare’s Twelfth Night in connexion with its 
performance in this fine old Hall. 

The principal entrance to the Middle Temple is by a 
heavy red-brick front in Fleet-street with stone dressings, 
built, in 1684, by Sir C. Wren, in place of the old portal 
which Sir Amias Paulet, while AVolsey’s prisoner in the 
gate-house of the Temple, “had re-edified very sumptuously, 
garnishing the same,” says Cavendish, “on the outside 


XVII.—THE TEMPLE. 


143 


thereof, with cardinal’s hats and arms, and divers other 
devices, in so glorious a sort, that he thought thereby to 
have appeased his old unkind displeasure.” The New Paper 
Buildings, to the river, built from the designs of Sydney 
Smirke, A.R.A., are in excellent taste, recalling the “ bricky 
towers ” of Spenser’s Prothalamion. Inner Temple Hall was 
refaced and repaired by Sir Robert Smirke while Jekyll, the 
wit, was Treasurer of the Inn. 

Shakspeare has made the Temple Gardens —a fine open 
space*, fronting the Thames—the place in which the dis¬ 
tinctive badges (the white rose and red rose) of the houses 
of York and Lancaster were first assumed by their respective 
partisans. 

“Suffolk. Within the Temple Hall wq were too loud; 

The jjarden here is more convenient. 

***«•« 

“ Plantagenet. Let him that is a true-horn gentleman, 

And stands upon the lionour of his birth, 

If he suppose that I have pleaded truth. 

From off this brier pluck a white rose with me. 

“ Somerset. Let him that is no coward, nor no flatterer, 

But dare maintain the party of the truth, 

Pluck a red rose from off this thorn with me. 

**«*»• 

“ Plantagenet. Hath not thy rose a canker, Somerset ? 

“Somerset. Hath not thy rose a thorn, Plantagenet? 

* 9 * * * * 

“ Warwick. This brawl to-day. 

Grown to this faction in the Temple Gardens, 

Shall send, between the red rose and the white, 

A thousand souls to death and deadly night.” 

Shakspeare, First Part of Henry VI., Act ii., sc. 4. 

It would now be impossible to revive the scene in the sup¬ 
posed place of its origin, for such is the smoke and foul air 
of London, that the commonest and hardiest kind of rose 
has long ceased to put forth a bud in the Temple Gardens. 
In the autumn, however, a fine'display of Chrysanihemums, 
reared with great care, may be seen in them. The Temple 
is walled in on every side, and protected with gates. There 
is no poor-law within its precinct. The Cloisters, adjoining 
the Temple Church, were rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren 
for students to walk in, and put cases in law for the consi¬ 
deration of one another. In No. 1, Inner-Temple-lane, Dr. 
Johnson had chambers, and here Boswell paid his first visit 
after his memorable introduction to him at Tom Davies’s. 
The house was pulled down in 1858. In No. 2, Brick-court, 
Middle-Temple-lane, up two pair of stairs, for so Mr. Filby, 
his tailor, describes him, lived and died Oliver Goldsmith : 
his rooms were on the right hand as you ascend the staircase. 


144 


XVII.—Lincoln’s inn. 


The great Earl of Mansfield, when Mr. Murray, had chambers 
in No. 5, King’s-Bench-walk. 

LINCOLN’S INN is an Inn of Court, with two Inns of 
Claancery attached, Furnival’s Inn and Thavies' Inn, and so 
called after Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln (d. 1312), whose 
town-house, or inn, occupied a considerable portion of the 
present Inn of Court, which bears both his name and arms, 
and whose monument in old St. Paul’s was one of the state¬ 
liest in the church. The Gatehouse of brick in Chancery-lane 
(the oldest part of the existing building) was built by Sir 
Thomas Lovell, and bears the date upon it of 1518. The 
chambers adjoining are of a somewhat later period, and it is to 
this part perhaps that Fuller alludes when he says that —“ He 
[Ben Jonson] helped in the building of the new stracture of 
Lincoln’s Inn, when, having a trowel in one hand, he had a 
book in his pocket.” In No. 24, in the south angle of the 
great com’t leading out of Chancery-lane, formerly called the 
Gatehouse-court, but now Old-buildings, and in the apart¬ 
ments on the left hand of the ground-floor, Oliver Cromwell’s 
secretary, Thurloe, had chambers from 1645 to 1659. Crom¬ 
well must often have been here; and here, by the merest 
accident, long after Thurloe’s death, the Thurloe Papers 
were accidentally discovered, concealed in a false ceiling, 

Lincoln's Inn Chapel, in the Perp. style of Gothic, but 
much debased, was built by Inigo Jones, and consecrated on 
Ascension Day, 1623, Dr. Donne preaching the consecration 
sermon. The Roman Doric pilasters, creeping up the sides 
of the bastard Gothic of the crypt, deserve attention. The 
stained glass windows (very good for the period) were exe¬ 
cuted “ by Mr, Hall, a glass-painter, in Fetter-lane, and in 
point of colour are as rich as the richest Decorated glass of 
the best period.” Some of the figures will repay attention. 
The windows on the S. side are filled with the Twelve Apos¬ 
tles ; on the N. by Moses and the Prophets, St. John the 
Baptist and St. Paul. The St. John the Baptist was executed, 
as an inscription in the wndow records, at the expense of 
William Noy (d, 1634), the Attorney-General of Charles I. 
The crypt beneath the chapel on open arches, like the cloisters 
in the Temple, was built as a place for the students and 
huvyers “to walk in and talk and confer their learnings,” 
The Round part of the Temple Church was long employed 
for a similar purpose. Butler and Pepys allude to this 
custom. Here were buried Alexander Brome, the Cavalier 
song-writer; Secretary Thurloe; and William Prynne, the 
Puritan, who wrote against the “ unloveliness of love locks.” 


XVII.—gray’s inn. 


145 


On the stair is a marble tablet to the only daughter of Lord 
Bi'ougham : the inscription in Latin verse by Marq. Wel¬ 
lesley. The preacher at Lincoln’s Inn, usually one of the 
most eminent divines of the Church of England, is chosen 
by the Benchers. 

Lincoln’s Inn Hall and Library, on the E. side of 
Lincoln’s-Inn-fields (Philip Hardwick, B.A., architect), is 
a noble structure in the Tudor style, built, 1843-45, of red 
brick with stone dressings. The Hall is 120 ft. long, 
45 ft, wide, and 62 ft. high, with a roof of carved oak. The 
total cost exceeded 55,000Z. Observe .—In the Hall, Watts’ 
grand fresco—The School of Legislation, occupymg the whole 
N. wall, represents the lawgivers of the world, from Moses 
down to Edward I. — 30 figures, chiefl-y colossed. Above are 
Religion, with Mercy and Justice on either hand; below, in 
the centre, Moses; on left, Minos, Lycurgus, Draco, Solon, 
Nuina; right, Sesostris, Zoroaster, Pythagoras, Confucius, 
and Menu; 3rd row, in centre, Justinian and Theodora dic¬ 
tating the Pandects; next Charlemagne ; near him a Druid 
priest; Ina, King of the W. Saxons, and Alfred, ascending 
the steps. On the lowest step Stephen Langton and two 
other of the Magna Charta Barons, and Edward 1. in armour, 
seated. In the Hall hangs Hogarth’s picture of Paul before 
Felix, painted for the Benchers on the recommendation of 
the great Lord Mansfield, as the appropriation of a legacy 
to the Inn of 200^.; statue of Lord Erskine, by Sir R. West- 
macott, R.A. Observe in Drawing-room, 6:c., portraits of Sir 
Matthew Hale, by Wright; Lord Chancellor Bathurst, by 
Sir N. Dance ; and Sir William Grant, Master of the Rolls, 
by Harloioe. The Library contains the unique fourth volume 
of Prynne’s Records, for which the Society paid 335Z. at 
the Stowe sale in 1849; and the rich collection of Books 
and MSS., the bequest of Sir Matthew Hale, a treasure,” 
says Hale, in his will, ''that are not fit for every jnan’s 
view.” The Court of Chancery sits in "Term Time” at 
Westminster; during the "Vacation” in Lincoln’s Inn Old 
Hall, a mean building near the Chapel. 

LincolrUs Inn New Square (built on Little Lincoln’s-Inn- 
fields) forms no part of the Inn of Court called Lincoln’s 
Inn. 

GRAY’S INN is an Inn of Court, with two Inns of 
Chancery attaclied. Staple Inn and Barnard's Inn, and is 
so called after Edmund, Lord Gray of Wilton, of the time of 
Henry VII. The Hall was built in 1560, and the Gardens 
first-planted about 1600. The great Lord Bnrghley and the 

r. 


146 


XVII.—clement’s inn. 


great Lord Bacon, who dates the dedication of his Essays 
“from my chamber at Graies Inn, this 30 of Januaiie, 1597,” 
are the chief worthies of the Inn. Bradshaw, who sat as 
president at the trial of Charles I., was a bencher of the Inn. 

Gray's Inn Walks, or Gi'ay’s Inn Gardens, were in Charles 
II.’s time, and the days of the Tatler and Spectator, a 
fashionable promenade on a summer evening. The great 
Lord Bacon is said to have planted some of the trees, but 
none now exist coeval with his time. As late as 1754 there 
was still in the gardens an octagonal seat, erected by Lord 
Bacon when Solicitor-General, to his friend Jeremiah 
Bettenham, of this Inn. The principal entrance from 
Holborn was by Fulwood’s-rents, then a fashionable loca¬ 
lity, noAV the squalid habitation of the poorest people of 
the Parish of St. Andrew. “Within Gray’s Inn Gate, next 
Gray’s Inn Lane,” Jacob Tonson first kept shop. The first 
turning on the right (as you walk from Holborn up Gray’s- 
Inn-lane) is Fox-court, in which, on the 10th of January, 
1697-8, at 6 o'clock in the morning, the Countess of Maccles¬ 
field was delivered, wearing a mask all the while, of Richard 
Savage, the poet. The only toast ever publicly drunk by the 
Society of Gray’s Inn is, “ To the glorious, pious, and 
immortal memory of Queen Elizabeth.” 

The INNS OF CHANCERY, attached to the four Inns 
of Court, are nine in number. To the Inner Temple belonged 
Clifford’s Inn, Clement’s Inn, and Lyon’s Inn; to the Middle 
Temple, New Inn and Strand Inn; to Lincoln's Inn, Furnival’s 
Inn and Thavies’ Inn; and to Gray's Inn, Staple Inn and 
Barnard’s Inn. They have now little or no connexion with 
the Inns of Court. 

Harrison, the regicide, was a clerk in the office of Thomas 
Houlker, an attorney in Clifford’s Inn. 

Justice Shallow was a student of Clement’s Inn. 

“ Shallow. 1 was once of Clement’s Inn; where I think they will talk 
of mad Shallow yet. 

“Silence. You were called lusty Shallow then, cousin. 

“By the mass, I w^as called anything; and I would have 
done anything indeed, and roundly too. There was I and Little John 
Doit of Staffordshire, and Black George Barnes of Staffordshire, and 
Francis Pickbone and Will Squele, a Cotswold man; you had not four 
such swinge-bucklers in all the Inns of Court again. 

******** 

“Shallow. Nay, she must be old; she cannot choose but be old; certain 
she’s old, and had Robin Nightwork by old Nightwork, before I came 
to Clement’s Inn. 


XVIII.—NEWGATE. 


147 


“ Shallow. I remember at Mile-end-greeu (when I lay at Clement’s Inn), 
I Avas then Sir Dagonet in Arthur’s shoAV. 

**•«**«* 

"Falstaff. I do remember him at Clement’s Inn, like a man made 
after supper of a cheese-paring.”— Shakspeare, Second Part of Henry IV. 

‘‘Withowt St. Clement’s Inn back dore, as soon as you 
come up the steps and owt of that house and dore on your 
left hand two payre of stayres, into a little passage right be¬ 
fore you,” lived Wenceslaus Hollar, the engraver. The black 
figure kneeling in the garden of Clement’s Inn was presented 
to the Inn by Holies, Earl of Clare, but when or by Avhat 
earl no one has told us. It was brought from Italy, and is 
said to be of bronze. 

William Weare, murdered by Thurtell, at Gill’s-hill, in 
Hertfordshire, lived at No. 2 in Lyon’s Inn. 

They cut his throat from ear to ear, 

His brains they batter’d in; 

Ilis name Avas Mr. William Weare, 

He dAv^elt in Lyon’s Inn.” 

Contemporary Ballad, attributed to Theodore Hook. 

Isaac Reed (d. 18071 had chambers at No. 11, Staple Inn, 
Holborn. 

The yearly rental of the Inns and Court of Chancery is in round 


numbers as follows :— 
Lincoln’s Inn . . . 

£33,329 

Clement’s Inn . 

. . £1,653 

Inner Temple . 

Gray’s Inn . . . . 

25,676 

Clifford’s Inn . 

. . 818 

16,035 

Lyon’s Inn 

. . 423 

Middle Temple 

Furnival’s Inn . . . 

12,640 

NeAv Inn . 

1,646 

4,386 

Sergeant’s Inn . 

. . 1,600 

Staple Inn 

Barnard’s Inn . . . 

2,553 

1,031 


£101,791 


XVIII.-PRISONS, PENITENTIARIES, AND PLACES 
OF PUBLIC EXECUTION. 

NEWGATE, in the Old Bailey, is a prison appertaining 
to the city of London and county of Middlesex, formerly 
for felons and debtors; since 1815 (when Whitocross-street 
Prison was built) for felons only, and is noAV used as the gaol 
for the confinement of prisoners from the metropolitan 
counties, preparatory to their trial at the Central Criminal 
Court in the Old Bailey. It is the oldest prison in London, 
was so called because it was the tower of a gate of the same 
name. In Old Newgate were confined William Penn, Titus 







148 XVIII.—BRIDEWELL—HORSEMONGER-LANE GAOL. 


c 

I 


Oates, Defoe, Dr. Dodd, Jack Sheppard, &c. The present 
edifice was designed by George Dance, the architect of the 
Mansion House, and the first stone laid by Alderman Beck- 
ford, 1770. The works advanced but slowly, for in 1780, 
when the old prison was burnt to the ground in the Lord 
George Gordon riots' of that year, the new prison was only 
in part completed. More rapid progress was made in con¬ 
sequence of this event, and on December 9th, 1783, the first 
execution took place before its walls, the last at Tyburn 
occurring November 7th. At an execution the prisoner 
walks forth to death through the door nearest Newgate- 
street to the scaffold erected over the broadest part of the 
Old Bailey. The interior was rebuilt 1858, on the cellular 
system. The prison will hold 192 persons. Here, in the 
prison he had emptied and set in fiames. Lord Geoi-ge 
Gordon, the leader of the riots of 1780, died (1793) of the 
gaol distemper, and in front of this prison Bellingham was 
executed (1812) for the murder of Mr. Perceval, the Prime 
Minister. Admission to inspect^ the interior is granted by 
the Secretary of State for the Home Department, the Lord 
Mayor, and Sheriffs. Observe .—Opposite this prison. No. 
68, Old Bailey, the residence of Jonathan Wild, the famous 
thief and thief-taker; immediately behind his house is a 
good specimen of the old wall of London. 


BRIDEWELL—foi’merly a City prison, situated in Bridge- 
street, Blackfriars, immediately behind the church of St. Bride, 
Fleet-street, has been disused and partly uaed down since 
the erection of the City House of Correction at Holloway. 
It derives its name from a manor or house, pi’esented to the 
City of London by Edward VI., after a sermon by Bishop 
Ridley, who begged it of the King as a Workhouse for the 
poor, and a House of Correction “ for the sti’umpet and idle 
person, for the noter that consumeth all, and for the vaga¬ 
bond that will abide in no place.” Over the chimney in the 
Court-room hung a large picture, certainly not by Holbein, 
representing Edward VI. delivering the Charter of Endow¬ 
ment to the Mayor. 


HORSEMONGER LANE GAOL, Horsemonger Lane, 
Southwark, is the county gaol for Surrey. Here Mr. Leigh 
Hunt was confined for two years (1812-14) for a libel on the 
Prince Regent in t\xe Examiner newspaper, and here (Nov. 13th, 
1849) Mr. and Mrs. Manning were hung. The place of execu¬ 
tion is the top of the prison. “ I was a witness,” says Mr. Charles 
Dickens, “ of the execution. I went there with the intention of 
observing the crowd gathered to behold it, and I had excel- 


XVIII.—HORSEMONGER-LANE GAOL. 


149 


lent opportunities of doing so, at intervals all through tho 
night, and continuously from daybreak until after the spectacle 
was over. I believe that a sight so inconceivably awful as 
the wickedness and levity of the immense crowd collected at 
that execution could be imagined by no man, and could be 
presented in no heathen land under the sun. The horrors of 
the gibbet and of the crime which brought the wretched 
murderers to it, faded in my mind before the atrocious 
beai’ing, looks and language, of the assembled spectators. 
When I came upon the scene at midnight, the shnllness of 
the cries and howls that were raised from time to time, 
denoting that they came from a concoui’se of boys and girls 
already assembled in the best places, made my blood run 
cold. As the night went on, screeching, and laughing, and 
yelling in strong chorus of parodies on Negro melodies, witli 
siibstitutions of ‘ Mrs. Manning ’ for ‘ Susannah ’ and the like 
were added to these. Wlien the day dawned, thieves, low 
prostitutes, ruffians and vagabonds of every kind, flocked 
on to the ground, with every variety of offensive and foul 
behaviour. Fightings, faintings, whistlings, imitations of 
Punch, brutal jokes, tumultuous demonstrations of indecent 
delight when swooning women were dragged out of the crowd 
by the police with their dresses disordered, gave a new zest 
to the general entertainment. When the sun rose brightly 
—as it did—it gilded thousands upon thousands of upturned 
faces, so inexpressibly odious in their brutal mirth or cal¬ 
lousness, that a man had cause to feel ashamed of the shape 
he wore, and to shrink from himself, as fashioned in the 
image of the Devil. When the two miserable creatures who 
attmcted all this ghastly sight about them were turned 
quivering into the air, there was no more emotion, no more 
pity, no more thought that two immortal souls had gone to 
judgment, no more restraint in any of the previous obsce¬ 
nities, than if the name of Christ had never been heard in 
this world, and there were no belief among men but that they 
perishpd like the beasts. I have seen, habitvially, some of 
the worst sources of general contamination and corruption 
in this country, and I think there are not many phases of 
London life that could surprise me. I am solemnly con¬ 
vinced that nothing that ingenuity could devise to be done 
in this city, in the same compass of time, could work such 
ruin as one public execution, and I stand astounded and 
appalled by the wickedness it exhibits." It is much to be 
desired that executions in public should be abohshed— 
that death should be inflicted before appointed official 
witnesses, within the prison w%alls, the dead bodies being 


150 


XVIII.—MILLBANK PRISON. 


afterwards exhibited for a short time, by which all the 
demoralizing excitement would be avoided, 1864. 

MILLBANK PRISON is a mass of brickwork equal to a 
fortress, on the left bank of the Thames, close to Vauxhall 
Bridge; erected on ground bought in 1799 of the Marquis of 
Salisbuiy, and established pursuant to 52 Geo. Ill,, c. 44, 
passed Aug. 20th, 1812. It was designed by Jeremy Bentham, 
to whom the fee-simple of the ground was conveyed, and is 
said to have cost the enormous sum of half a million sterling. 
The external walls form an irregular octagon, and enclose 
upwards of sixteen acres of land. Its ground-plan resembles 
a wheel, the governor’s house occupying a circle in the centre, 
from which radiate six piles of building, terminating exter¬ 
nally in towers. The ground on which it stands is raised but 
little above the river, and was at one time considered 
unhealthy. It was first named “ The Penitentiary,” or 
Penitentiary House for London and Middlesex,” and was 
called “ The Millbank Prison,” pursuant to 6 & 7 Victoria, 
c. 26. It is the largest prison in London, and contains 
accommodation for 1120 prisoners; the number of inmates 
averaging about 700. The annual cost for 1000 prisoners 
is 28,643^., and the value of their labour in that time, 
2375^. So far as the accommodation of the prison permits, 
the separate system is adopted. The number of persons 
in Great Britain and Ireland condemned to penal servitude 
every year amounts to about 4000. Admission to inspect — 
order from the Secretary of State for the Home Department, 
or the Directors of Government Piasons, 25, Parliament 
Street, Westminster. 

THE MODEL PRISON, Pentonville, Caledonian-road, 
near the new Cattle-market, The prison contains 1000 
separate cells. The inmates are detained for two years, and 
are taught useful trades; a most merciful and charitable 
provision, which it is to be hoped may prove successful. 
The eost of each prisoner is about 15s. a week. The first 
stone was laid 1840, and the building completed in 1842, 
The total cost was 84,168Z. 12s. 2d. 

THE HOUSE OF CORRECTION, Cold Bath Fields, will 
hold about 1200 prisoners, and is under the direction of the 
Middlesex Magistrates and the Secretary of State for the 
Home Department. There is a similar House of Correction 
at Westminster. The principal prison for debtors is The 
Debtors’ Prison, so called, in Whitecross-street, for 380 
prisoners. The annual cost of these two to the City of 


XVIIL—PRISONS.—XIX.—BRITISH MUSEUM. 151 


London is 10,0001. The famous Fleet Prison was abolished^^ 
during the reign of her present Majesty, and the site con¬ 
verted into a goods station for the London, Chatham, and 
Dover Railway. 


CITY OF LONDON PRIS 9 N, Holloway (Mr. Running, 
Architect,) is a castellated building presenting a mediaeval 
character, erected 1853-5, to contain the class of prisoners 
formerly committed to Giltspur Street House of Correction, 
Bridewell, and the House of Correction for women at the 
Borough Compter : while, in the same way, the New House of 
Correction at Wandsworth has relieved the Surrey or Horse- 
monger Lane Gaol. Average number of prisoners, 320. 


XlX.-PERMANENT FREE EXHIBITIONS. 


BRITISH MUSEUM, in Great Russell Street, Blooms¬ 
bury; built 1823-54 from the designs of Sir Robert Smirke, 
but completed byiiis younger brother, Sydney Smirke, A.R.A. 
The cost of the building amounts to one million sterling! 
It is faced with a portico, whose columns are extended 
round the wings of the building, and are 44 in number. 
The sculpture in the pediment is by Sir Richard Westmacott. 

The Museum is open to public view on Mondays, Wednes¬ 
days and Fridays, from 10 till 4 during January, February, 
November and December; from 10 till 5 during March, 
April, September and October; and from 10 till 6 during 
May, June, July and August. 

The Museum is closed from the 1st to the 7th of January, 
the 1st to the 7th of May, and the 1st to the 7th of 
September, inclusive, on Ash Wednesday, Good Friday, and 
Christmas Day, and also on any special fast or thanksgiving 
day, ordered by Authority. 

The Reading Room is open every day, except on Sundays, 
on Ash Wednesday, Good Friday, Christmas Day, and on any 
fast or thanksgiving days, ordered by Authority: except also 
between the 1st and 7th of January, the 1st and 7th of May, 
and the 1st and 7th of September, inclusive. The Room is 
open from 9 till 4 during November, December, Januaiy, and 
February ; from 9 till 5 during September, October, March 
and Api'il; and from 9 till 6 during May, June, July and 
August (except Saturdays, and then till 5). Persons desirous 
of admission must produce a recommendation from a house- 


3 



DFnC£KS*JU<;S£i WEST, 


152 


XIX.—BRITISH MUSEUM 



NEW READING-ROOM, 


Jjjcian 

Gallary 


Library 


CRENVILVKj 


Ca9*rMc^ 



|| 1 nnti J 




GROUND PLAN OF THE BRITISH MUSEUM. 


OPPlCCRS'fUUSES BASr 








































































XIX.—BRITISH MUSEUM. 


153 


holder in London satisfactory to a trustee or an officer of 
the house, and must send in their applications in writing 
(specifying their Christian and surnames, rank or profession, 
and places Of abode), to the Principal Librarian, or, in his 
absence, to the Secretary, or, in his absence, to the senior 
Under Librarian, who will either immediately admit such 
persons, or lay their applications before the next meeting of 
the trustees. Permission will in general be granted for six 
months,‘ and at the expiration of this term fresh application 
is to be made for a renewal. The tickets given to readers 
are not transferable, and no person can be admitted with¬ 
out a ticket. Persons under 18 years of age are not ad¬ 
missible. 

Artists are admitted to study in the Galleries of Sculpture, 
between the hours of 9 and 4, every day, except Saturday. 

The Print Room is closed on Saturdays. 

The Medal and Print Rooms can be seen only by a few 
persons at a time, and by particular permission. 

The British Museum originated in an offer to Parliament, 
made in the will of Sir Hans Sloane (d. 1753), of the whole 
of his collection for 20,000Z.—30,000Z. less than it was said to 
have cost him. The offer was at once accepted, and an Act 
passed in 1753, “for the purchase of it, and of the Harleian 
Collection of MSS., and procuring one general repository for 
the better reception and more convenient use of the said 
Collection, and of the Cottonian Library, and additions 
thereto.” In pursuance of this Act the sum of 300,000?. 
was raised by a Lottery; 20,000?. paid for the Sloane 
Museum, 10,000?. for the Harleian Collection of MSS., and 
10,250?. to the Earl of Halifax for Montague House in 
Bloomsbury—a mansion at that time perfectly well adapted 
for all the objects of the Museum. The collections 
increasing, new rooms were added to receive the Egyptian 
Antiquities, given by George III. in 1801. The government 
of the Museum is vested in trustees, and the chief Gifts and 
Bequests include the Cotton MSS.; a collection of Books, and 
the interest of 7000?., bequeathed by Major Edwardes; the 
Royal Library of the Kings of England; Garrick’s Collection 
of Old Plays; Dr. Birch’s Books and MSS.; Thomas Tyrwhitt’s 
Books; Rev. C. Cracherode’s Books, Prints, &c., valued at 
40,000?.; Sir Wm. Musgrave’s Books, MSS., and Prints; Payne 
Knight’s Books, Bronzes, and Drawings; Sir Joseph Banks’s 
Books and Botanical Specimens; Library formed by George 
III.; and Mr. Grenville’s Library. The Additional Purchases 
include Sir William Hamilton’s Collection, 8400?.; Townlej’^ 
Marbles, 28,200?.; Phigalian Marbles, 19,000?.; Elgin Marbles, 


154 


XIX.—BRITISH MUSEUM—ANTIQUITIES. 


35,000Z,; Dr. Burney’s MSS., 13,500Z .; Lansdowne MSS., 
4925^.; Arundel MSS., 35591.; Blacas Collection, 48,000^. ^ 

Catalogue or synopsis of the contents of the Museum, price 
one shilling, compiled under the direction of the trustees. 

The grovmd floor of the W. side of the building is occu¬ 
pied by 

Antiquities. —Turning to left out of the entrance hall you 
pass through a narrow gallery containing Roman pavements, 
pigs of lead bearing Roman inscriptions, &c., found in London 
and other parts of England. 

In the adjoining rooms are arranged Roman and Grseco- 
Roman sculptures, terra-cottas, &c., chiefly from Charles 
Townley’s collection : many of the best of these are works 
executed by Greek artists in Italy. Observe — The 
Townley Venus, a half-draped statue found near Ostia, 1775; 
—bust of Minerva, the bronze helmet and breast-plate modern. 
—busts of Homer, Pindar, Sophocles, Periander, Hippocrates, 
Pericles,—the Discobulus, or Quoit-player, from Hadrian’s 
villa (a copy of the bronze statue by Myron);—bust of Clytie 
emerging from a sun-flower; statue of the Emperor Hadrian 
in military costume ; bas-relief, the Apotheosis of Homer. 

Lycian Room. —A series of tombs, bas-reliefs, and statues 
from the ruined city of Xanthus; one group formed the 
ornaments of the Nereid monument of Xanthus—an Ionic 
peristyle on a basement surrounded with two bands of 
friezes, representing the conquest of Lycia by the Pei’sians, 
and the fall of Xanthus as related by Herodotus. The 
Harpy Tomb is a curious example of very early art. These 
marbles, some of them, of an earlier date than those of the 
Parthenon, were discovered and brought to England* by Sir 
Charles Fellows. 

The Egyptian Antiquities are arranged in chronological 
order in thi’ee large Halls. The largest saloon con¬ 
tains the heavier objects, such as Sarcophagi, Columns, 
Statues, Tablets of the Dead, Sepulchral Urns, &c. This 
collection, the finest in Europe for colossal antiquities, 
comprises about 6000 objects. Observe. —Two Lions Cou- 
chant, in red gi-anite (1 and 34), “pei’fect models of 
Architectonic Sculpture.”— Waagen. Colossal Head, 9 feet 
high, of Rameses II., but better known as the Young 
Memnon, found in the Memnonium at Thebes, by Belzoni, 
and deservedly regarded as the most celebrated monu¬ 
ment of Egyptian art in any European collection. Colossal 
Head of a king wearing the pshent, discovered by Belzoni 
in Karnak. Statue in red granite of Menepthah II. Colossal 


XIX.—EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. 


155 


Ram’s Head. The stone Sarcophagus of King Kectanebo I. 
(b.c. 367-369), found by the French in the court-yard of 
the Mosque of S. Athanasius, at Alexandria. Dr. Clarke, 
the traveller, fancied that this was the identical sarcophagus 
which once contained the body of Alexander the Great. 
Colossal Scarabeeus. The Rosetta Stone, containing an inscrip¬ 
tion three times repeated — 1, in hieroglyphics; 2, in a 
written character called Demotic or Enchoreal; and 3, in 
the Greek language. This celebrated stone furnished the 
late Dr. Young with the first clue towards the deciphering 
of the ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was found (1799) 
by M. Bouchard, a French officer of engineers, in digging 
the foundation of a house, near the Rosetta mouth of the 
Nile, among the remains of an ancient temple dedicated 
by Pharaoh Necho to the god Necho, and came into the 
hands of the English by the sixteenth article of the capi¬ 
tulation of Alexandria, which required that all objects of 
art collected by the French Institute in Egypt should be 
delivered up to the English. The stone itself is a piece of 
black basalt, much mutilated, about 3 feet long, by 2 feet 
5 inches broad, and from 10 to 12 inches thick, and contains 
a decree set up in the reign of Ptolemy V. (Epiphanes), 
probably about the year b.c. 196. The principal historical 
facts mentioned are the birth of the King b.c., 209; the 
troubles in Egypt, and the decease of his father Philopator; 
the attack of Antiochus by sea and land ; the siege of Lyco- 
polis; the inundation of the Nile, b.c., 198 ; the chastisement 
of the revolters; the coronation of the King at Memphis, 
B.c. 196; and the issue of the decree itself the following day. 

Between the Egyptian and Elgin Halls are a series of 
galleries filled with Assyrian Antiquities, from Nimroud, 
Koyunjikj Khorsabdd, dsc., acquired for this country chiefly 
by the indefatigable exertions of Mr. Layard, Col. Rawlin- 
son, Mr. Loftus, and Mr. Rassam; a most interesting series 
of statues, marble slabs, &c., brought from ancient Nineveh, 
arranged in a suite of halls and side galleries, where the 
sculptured slabs line the walls as they did in the palace of 
the Assyrian king. These represent the wai*s and con¬ 
quests, battles and sieges, lion hunts, &c., of the Assyrian 
monarchs, also the construction of the very palace in which 
these marbles were found, the raising of the mound, and 
the planting on them, of tlxe colossal human-headed winged 
lions and bulls now deposited in the British Museum. Here 
may be seen the Fish-god (Dagon)—the Eagle-headed god 
(Nisroch). In a hall on the sunk floor are placed the most 
remarkable bas-reliefs, representing tho siege and destruc- 


156 XIX.—ASSYRIAN MARBLES—ELGIN MARBLES. 


tion of Lachish by Sennacherib, as described in the Bible. 
Sennacherib himself is seen on his throne, with Jewish 
captives before him. Observe _Colossal statues of Human¬ 

headed Lions, and Bulls, and numerous Bassi-rilievi repre¬ 
senting battle scenes, conferences, bull and lion hunts, &c., 
and all meiiting minute attention. The Koyunjik Side- 
Gallery filled with Mr. Layard’s collection extends about 
300 feet. The Nimroud Obelisk, covered with small highly 
finished bas-reliefs, with arrow-headed inscriptions, repre¬ 
senting a conquered nation bearing tribute, animals, &c., to 
the king of Assyria, is one of the most curious objects. 

The glory of the collections in the British Museum are 
those unequalled works of the best age of Greek sculpture, 
executed, without doubt, by Phidias and his scholars, 
known as The Elgin Marbles, from the Earl of Elgin, Am¬ 
bassador-Extraordinary to the Porte, who, in 1801, obtained 
firmans for their removal to England. Nos. 1 to 160, 
from the Pai'thenon at Athens. But before proceeding to 
examine these marbles, the visitor will do well to inspect 
with care, the two models of the Parthenon restored, and 
the Parthenon after the Venetian bombardment, in 1687. 
These, along with “ The Capital and a piece of the Shaft 
of one of the Doric Columns of the Pai’thenon,” will give 
a pretty complete notion of what the Parthenon was like. 
The Marbles are of four kinds:—1. Statues in the East 
Pediment; 2. Statues in the West Pediment; 3. The 
Metopes or groups which occupied the square intervals 
between the raised tablets or triglyphs of the frieze; 4. 
The Frieze. The marbles of the two Pediments are on 
stages above the floor of the Saloon. 



91 . 92 . 93 . 94 . 95 . 96 . 97 . 98 

91. Upper part of the figure of Hyperion rising out of the 
Sea. His arms are stretched forward, in the act of holding 
the reins of his coursers. 92. Heads of two of the Horses 
belonging to the Car of Hyperion. 93. Theseus. 

" The Theseus is a work of the first order; but the surface is corroded 
by the weather. The head is in that impaired state that I cannot give 
an opinion upon it; and the limbs are mutilated. I pi*efer it to the 
Apollo Belvidere, which, I believe, to be only a copy. It has more ideal 
beauty than any male statue I know.”— Flaxman, 



XIX.—ELGIN MARBLES. 


157 


94. Group of two Goddesses (Ceres and Proserpine) seated. 

95. Statue of Iris, the messenger of Juno. She is repre¬ 
sented in quick motion, as if about to communicate to 
distant regions the birth of Minerva. 96. A Torso of Vic- 
toiy. 97. A group of the three Fates. 98. Head of a 
Horse (very fine) from the Car of Night. 



99. The Ilissus (statue of a I’iver-god, and, after the Theseus, 
the finest in the collection). 100. Torso of a male figure, 
supposed to be that of Cecrops, the founder of Athens. 
101. Upper pai*t of the head of Minerva, originally covered 
with a bronze helmet, as appears from the holes by which 
it was fastened to the marble. 102. A portion of the chest 
of the same statue. 103. Upper part of the Torso of Nep¬ 
tune. 104. Another fragment of the statue of Minerva. 
105. The Torso of Victoria Apteros : the goddess was 
represented driving the Car of Minerva, to receive her 
into it, after her successful contest with Neptune. 106. 
Fragment of a group which originally consisted of Latona, 
with her two children, Apollo and Diana. The Metopes 
(1—16, bas-reliefs let into the wall) represent the battle of 
the Centaurs and Lapithse. The originals are 15 in num¬ 
ber : the 16th (No. 9) is a cast from the original in the 
Koyal Museum at Paris. The Frieze (17—90, a series of bas- 
reliefs, which ran round the exterior frieze of the Celia of 
the Parthenon) represents the solemn procession called the 
Panathensea, which took place at Athens, every six years, in 
honour of Minerva. East End (17—24), Nos. 20 and 23 are 
casts. The original of 23 is in the Koyal Museum at Paris. 

• North End, Nos. 25—46; West End, Nos. 47—61; all but 47 
are casts; the originals destroyed. Here is a noble head of 
.^sculapius from the Blacas Collection. 

" IVe possess in England the most precious examples of Grecian 
Art. The horses of the Frieze in the Elgin Collection appear to live and 
move, to roll their eyes, to gallop, prance, and curvet. The veins of 
their faces and legs seem distended Avith circulation; in them are 
distinguished the hardness and decision of bony forms, from the elas¬ 
ticity of tendon and the softness of flesh. The beholder is charmed with 
the deei’-like lightness and elegance of their make; and although the 



158 


XIX.—PHIGALIAN MARBLES. 


relief is not above an inch from the back ground, and they are so much 
smaller than nature, we can scarcely suffer reason to persuade us they 
are not alive.”— Flaxman. 

Phigalian Marbles (in the Phigalian Saloon). — 23 bas- 
reliefs, found in the ruins of the Temple of Apollo Epicu- 
rius, built on Mount Cotylion, at a little distance from the 
ancient city of Phigalia in Arcadia. 1 to 11 represent the 
Battle of the Centaurs and Lapithse. 12 to 23, the Battle of 
the Greeks and Amazons. The temple from which they 
were taken was built by Ictinus, an architect contemporary 
with Pencles. 24 to 39 are fragments from the same temple. 
jEgina Marbles. —Casts of two groups which filled the pedi¬ 
ments at the Eastern and Western Ends of the Temple of 
Jupiter Panhellenius, in the island of .^Egina. The subject 
of the W. pediment is the contest between the Greeks and 
Trojans for the body of Patroclus. Bodroum Marbles. —11 
bas-reliefs, brought to England, in 1846 and 1858, from 
Bodroum, in Asia Minor, the site of the ancient Halicar¬ 
nassus, and presented to the British Museum by Sir Strat¬ 
ford Canning. To these have been added the products of 
excavations made by Charles Newton, who found the mag¬ 
nificent colossal draped statue supposed to be Mausolus 
himself, and ascertained the site and laid open the founda¬ 
tions of the Mausoleum or sepulchre, built in the 4th year 
of the 106th Olympiad, b.c. 357, by Artemisia, Queen of 
Caria, in honour of her husband, King Mausolus. The bas- 
reliefs were built into the faces of the walls of a fortress 
built by the knights of Rhodes, circ. 1400, at the entrance 
of the harbour. The story represented is a combat of Ama¬ 
zons and Greek warriors. 

In 1864 a portion of the Farnese Marbles was purchased 
for 4000?. from the King of Naples; of the Greek statues, 
the Mercury and the Diadumenos, or Athlete binding a fillet 
round bis head, deserve especial attention; the last is the 
only copy of a famous woi'k of Polycletus. 

Passing through the great Egyptian Halls, you reach a 
staircase lined with Egyptian papyri MSS., leading to a 
suite of rooms, on the upper flooi*, plan, p. 166). In" 
20 and 21 are placed the Minor Objects of Egyptian Antiquity, 
in glass cases,—Deities; Sacred Animals; small Statues; 
Household Furniture ; objects of Dress and Toilette; Jewels, 
Vases, Lamps, &c.; Bowls, Cups, &c.; Vases of Bronze, Agri¬ 
cultural Implements, Viands, &c.; Fragments of Tombs, Wea¬ 
pons, &c.; Inscriptions; Instruments of Writing, Painting, &c.; 
Baskets, Tools, Musical Instruments, Children’s Playthings. 
Animal Mummies, Human Mummies, Coffins, Amulets, Sepul- 


XTX.—EGYPTIAN AND ETRUSCAN ROOMS. 159 

chral Omaments, &c., many of the greatest curiosity, and 
exhibiting the various modes of embalming practised by 
the Egyptians, and the various degrees of care and splen¬ 
dour expended on the bodies of different ranks. Obsei've 
—Models of Egyptian Boats; Egyptian Wig and Box; Model 
of a House, &c.; Stand with Cooked AVaterfowl; Coffin and 
Body of Mycerinus from the 3rd Pyramid. 

22 and 23. Vases and Etruscan Rooms, contain a collection 
of vases discovered in Italy, and known as Etmscan, or Grceco- 
Italian, beautifully painted. It is arranged chronologically, 
and according to the localities in which the several antiquities 
were found. Observe, in cases 1 to 5, Vases of heavy black 
ware, some with figures upon them in bas-relief, and princi¬ 
pally found at Cervetri or Caere—in cases 6 and 7 the 
Nolan-Egyptian or Phoenician Vases, with pale backgrounds 
and figures in a deep reddish maroon colour, chiefly of 
animals. In cases 8 to 19 early Vases from Vulci, Canino, 
and the Ponte della Badia, to the north of Rome, with 
black figures upon red or orange backgrounds, the sub¬ 
jects of these are generally mythological. The vases in 
Cases 20 to 30, executed with more care and finish, are for 
the most part from Canino and Nola. Those in the centre 
of the room, Cases 31 to 55, are of a later style, and chiefly 
from the province of the Basilicata, to the south of Rome ; 
their subjects are principally relative to Bacchus. Cases 36 
to 51 contain Vases from Apulia, resembling in their colour 
and treatment those of Nola. Cases 56 to 60 are filled with 
terra-cottas, principally of Etruscan workmanship. The spe¬ 
cimens of Etruscan Jewellery, necklaces, armlets, wreaths 
of gold, bronze helmets, armour, &c., should not be passed 
unnoticed. Over the cases are several copies of paintings 
from the walls of Etruscan Tombs at Tarquinii and .Corneto. 

The bequest of Sir William Temple, minister at Naples 
(d. 1856), of Antiquities chiefly found at Pompeii, and other 
parts of Magna Grsecia, includes many fine antiques, bronzes, 
vases, some very large ones, also a celebrated rhyton in the 
form of a mule’s head, glass, armour, wall paintings, &c. 

24. Bronze Room, chiefly occupied with the collections of 
Hamilton, Townley, Payne, Knight, &c. Observe —4 precious 
bas-reliefs from Paramythia, in Epirus. Fi'agments of a 
Grecian cuirass, dug up on the banks of the Siris, in Magna 
Greecia, known as the “Bronzes of Siris,” of the very finest 
workmanship. Figures of gods and heroes in order; bronze 
mirrors, ornaments, furniture, keys, -weights, knives, spoons, 
styles (for writing), Greek, Etruscan, and Roman. Silver 
bas-relief, part of an Etruscan chariot, found at Perugia. 


160 XIX.—BRITISH MUSEUM—ANTIQUITIES—LIBRARY. 

Two bronze helmets found at Olympia, one dedicated to 
Jupiter by Hiero, tyrant of Syracuse, the other by the 
people of Argos, out of spoils taken from their enemies. 

Certain collections—such as coins, medals, gems—not 
publicly exhibited may be seen by artists and connoisseurs 
by special permission. 

The Barherini or Portland Vase {9| inches high, 21| inches 
in circumference), discovered in a sepulchral chamber, 3 
m. from Rome, on the road to Frascati (1623-44). Sir 
William Hamilton bought it at the sale of the Barberini 
Library, and subsequently sold it to the Duchess of Port¬ 
land, at whose sale, in 1786, it was bought in, by the 
family, for 1029^. It is still the property of the Duke of 
Portland, and has been deposited in the British Museum 
since 1810. The ground on which the figures are wrought 
is of a dark amethystine blue—semi-transparent; but it has 
not as yet been cleaidy ascertained what the figures represent. 
This unique vase was smashed to pieces, 7th of Feb., 1845, 
by a madman, but has since been wonderfully restored, con- 
sidei’ing the number of fragments into which it was broken. 

Medal Room. —The Greek coins are arranged in geogra¬ 
phical order; the Roman in chronological; and the Anglo- 
Saxon, English, Anglo-Gallic, Scotch, and Irish coins, and 
likewise the coins of foreign nations, according to the 
respective counti’ies to which the coins belong; those of 
each country being kept separate. Oems and Cameos. —In 
these objects the Museum has been greatly enriched by the 
Blacas Collection (cost 48,000^.) and by that of the Rev. 
Greg. Rhodes. 

25.— Bntish and Mediceval Room devoted to antiquities 
found in Great Britain and Ii-eland, beginning with celts (stone 
axes), flint knives, and arrow-heads, disks or whorls of jet of 
Kimmeridge coal, and other substances used to twirl the 
spindle; bronze celts, daggers, knives; bronze shields, 
found in the Isis and the Thames; horse trappings, &c., of 
bronze, some enamelled. Roman antiquities found in London 
and elsewhere. Mediceval. Astrolabes and -watches, enamels ; 
pottery and porcelain of Chelsea, Bow, Derby, &c.; Wedge- 
wood ware. The Mediceval Collection, still in course of 
formation, includes the sword of state of the Earldom of 
Chester, made for Edward V. wdien Prince of Wales; the 
signet I’ing of Mary, Queen of Scots; and some interesting 
figure fragments of the fresco decorations in old St. Stephen’s 
Chapel at Westminster. 

The Library of Printed Books exceeds 700,000 volumes, 
and about 75,000 volumes are added yearly. Compared 


XIX.—BRITISH MUSEUM LIBRARY. 


161 


with the great public libraries on the Continent, it ranks 
second to none except the Imperial library at Paris. It con¬ 
tains twice as many AmeHcan boohs as any librai-y in the 
United States; also 1650 copies of the Bible in various edi¬ 
tions and languages, and more than 12,000 pamphlets, &c., 
relating to the French Revolutions : such as does not exist in 
France. The Hebrew books form the largest collection in 
the world. Here is the library of the Kings of England, 
presented to the nation by George II., containing exquisite 
examples of books bound in embroidered velvet for Queen 
Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., &c. George Ill’s Library, 
consisting of upwards of 80,000 volumes, and kept in 
a separate room, the finest room in the building, was 
given to the nation by George IV., in 1823, and is said to 
have cost 130,000^. It is one of the most noble libraries 
known, I’emarkable not only for the judicious selection of 
the works, and the discriminating choice of the editions, 
but for the bibliographical peculiarities and rarity of the 
copies. Among the rarities may be mentioned; the Maza¬ 
rine Bible, the earliest printed book known, supposed to 
have issued from the press of Gutenberg and Fust, at Mentz, 
about 1455—it is in Latin and on vellum; the first printed 
Psalter, in Latin, on vellum—printed at Mentz, by Fust and 
Schoeffer, in 1457; the first book printed with a date, and the 
first example of printing in colours; .^sop’s Fables—printed 
at Milan, about 1480; the first edition of the first Greek classic 
printed: the first edition of Homer—Florence, 1488; for¬ 
merly in the possession of the historian De Thou : Virgil— 
printed at Venice, by Aldus, in 1501; on vellum; the first 
book printed in Italic types; and the earliest attempt to 
produce cheap books:—it belonged to the Gonzaga family, 
and carries the autographs of the two Cardinals Ippolito and 
Ercole, as well as that of Vincenzo Gonzaga, Duke of Mantua. 
The room to your right on entering from the hall contains the 
Grenville Library, a collection of 20,240 volumes, bequeathed to 
the nation by the Right Hon. Thomas Grenville, and said to 
have cost upwards of 54,000^. Other liberal donors have 
been Rev. C. M. Cracherode, David Garrick, Sir Joseph 
Banks, &c. 

The entrance to the Reading Rooms directly faces you as 
you pass under the great portico into the Hall of the Museum. 

The Reading Rooms and Libraries were built in com¬ 
pliance with a happy suggestion of Mr. Panizzi—in the vacant 
space formed by the inner quadrangle of the Museum, thus 
economising ground and money, and securing the fittest 
situation, close to the apartments in which the books are 

M 


162 


XIX.—READING ROOM. 


deposited. This was completed in three years, at a cost of 
£150,000—Sidney Smirke being architect, and Messrs. Baker 
and Fielder builders—and opened 1857. The Beading Boom 
is circular, surmounted by an elegant dome, 140 feet in 
diameter (only two feet less than the Pantheon, and one 
foot more than St. Peter’s, Borne), and 106 feet high. 
It is constructed chiefly of iron, by which much space 
is saved, with brick arches between the main ribs, sup¬ 
ported by 20 iron piers. It can receive with ease and 
comfort, at one time, 300 readers, each being provided with 
a separate desk. The general arrangements are sufficiently 
explained in the Plan. The whole is thoroughly warmed 
and ventilated, and the floors are laid with Kamptulikon, 
to prevent noise and reverberation. There are "35 reading 
tables, and two are set apart for the exclusive use of ladies. 

The Book-presses under the gallery are filled with a large 
library of reference for the use of the readers, comprising 
most of the standard works on the various branches of 
learning, and an extensive collection of dictionaries of all 
languages, biographical works, encyclopaedias, parliamentary 
histories, topographical works, &c., &c. These books, which 
are about 20,000 in number, the readers can consult at 
pleasure without filling up tickets for them. 

Having consulted the catalogue which extends to 977 MS. 
volumes, and found the title of the book you require, you 
transcribe the title, on a px-inted form given below, to be 
found near the catalogues, from whence you derive your 
references. 


Press Mark. 

Title of the Work wanted. 

Size. 

Place. 

Date. 







(Date) -(Signature) 

Please to restore each volume of the Catalogue to its place, as soon as 
done with. 


BEADEES ARE PARTICULARLY REQUESTED 

1. Not to ask for more than one work on the same ticket. 

2. To transcribe literally from the Catalogues the title of the Work 

wanted. 

3. To write in a plain clear hand, in order to avoid delay and 

mistakes. 

4. Before leaving the Room, to retui-n the books to an attendant, and 

to obtain the corresponding ticket, the Reader being respoJt- 

SIBLE FOR THE BoOKS SO LONG AS THE TICKET REMAINS 
UNCANCELLED. 

Readers are, under no circumstances, to take any Book or MS. 
out of the Reading Rooms. 















XIX.—READING ROOM.—MANUSCRIPTS. 163 

The tickets for Printed Books are on white paper ; for MSS. 
on green paper. 

Manusci'ipts .—The manuscripts in the Museum are divided 
under several heads, of which the following are the chief:— 
the Cotton MSS. (catalogued in 1 vol. folio); the Harleian 
]\ISS. (catalogued in 4 vols. folio); the Lansdowne MSS. 
(catalogued in 2 vols. folio); the Royal MSS. (catalogued in 
1 vol. quarto, called Casley’s Catalogue); the Sloane and 
Birch MSS. (in 1 vol. quarto); the Arundel MSS.; the 
Burney, Hargi’ave, and a large and Miscellaneous collection 
of “ Additional MSS.” in number about 30,000. The rarest 
MSS. are entitled “ Select,” and can only be seen and exa¬ 
mined in the presence of an attendant. The contents of two 
cases alone are valued at above a quarter of a million. 
Among the more remarkable we may mention;—Copy of the 
Gospels in Latin (Cotton MSS., Tiberius A. II., the only un¬ 
doubted relic of the ancient regalia of England), sent over to 
Athelstane by his brother-in-law the emperor Otho, between 
936 and 940, given by Athelstane to the metropolitan church 
of Canterbuiy, and borrowed of Sir Robert Cotton to be used 
at the coronation of Charles I. The “Book of St. Cuthbeidi” 
or “ Durham Book,” a copy of the Gospels in Latin, written 
in the seventh century by Eadfrith, Bishop of Lindisfarne, 
and illuminated by Athelwald, the succeeding Bishop. The 
Bible, said to have been written by Alcuin for Charlemagne. 
The identical copy of Guiar des Moulix’s vei’sion of Pierre le 
Mangeur’s Biblical History, which was found in the tent of 
John, King of France, at the battle of Poictiers. MS. of 
Cicero’s translation of the Astronomical Poem of Aratus. An 
Anglo-Saxon MS. of the ninth century. The Bedford Missal, 
executed for the Regent Duke of Bedford, brother of Henry V. 
Psalter written for Henry VI. Le Roman de Rou (Harl. 
MS. 4425). Henry VIII.’s Psalter, containing Portraits 
of Himself and Will Somem. Lady Jane Grey’s Prayer Book. 
Queen Elizabeth’s Prayer Book, written in a print-hand; the 
cover is her own needlework. Harl. MS. (7334), supposed 
to be the best MS. of Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales. Portrait 
of Chaucer, by Occleve (from which Vertue made his engrav¬ 
ing). Froissart’s Chronicles, with many curious illustrations 
—often engraved. Matthew Paris, illuminated. A volume 
of Hours executed circ. 1490, by a Flemish Artist (Hemrne- 
linck ?), for Philip the Fair, of Castile, or for his wife Joanna, 
mother of the Emperor Charles V. Carte Blanche which 
Prince Charles (Charles II.) sent to Parliament to save his 
father’s life. Oliver Cromwell’s Letter to the Speaker, 
describing the Battle of Naseby. Milton’s assignment of 

M 2 



A 

li 


h 


I'LAN OF READING-ROOM, BRITISH MUSEUM. 


Superintendent. 

Cateli pue Tables. 
I?iHder>’ Tab es. 
Access for Attecdants. 


E Entrance from Royal Library. 
F Entrance from North Library. 
O For Rescistration of Copyrisbts. 
H Ladies’ Cloak-Room. 

J Attendants’ Room. 


K Gentlemen’s Cloak-Room. 
L For Gentlemen. 

M Umbrella Room. 

N Assistants’Room. 








































































































































































































































































XIX.—PRINT ROOM—ZOOLOGY. 


165 


“Paradise Lost” to Simmonds the bookseller for 15Z.; Dryden’s 
assignment to Tonson of his translation of Virgil. Original 
MS. of Pope’s Homer, written on the backs of letters. Stow’s 
collections for his Annals and his Survey of London. 317 
vols. of Syriac MSS., obtained from Egyptian monasteries, 
near the Natron Lakes. 

Pnnt Room. — Drawings, dc. —A small, but interesting, and 
valuable, collection, containing specimens of Fra Beato Ange¬ 
lico, Fra Filippo Lippi, D. Ghirlandajo, P. Perugino, Leo¬ 
nardo da Vinci, Fra Bartolommeo, Baphael, Mich. Angelo, 
Giovanni Bellini, Titian, and Correggio—of Albert Durer, 
Hans Holbein, Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck, Backhuysen, 
A. Ostade, &c. Niellos of the rarest kind—in silver—with 
300 impressions on sulphur and paper from niellos. 

Ohset've. —Impression in sulphur of the famous Pax of Maso 
Finiguerra, cost 250 guineas. Silver Pax by the same master. 
Two unique niellos of Leon, da Vinci. Carving in soapstone, 
in high relief, by Albert Durer (dated 1510), representing 
the Birth of John the Baptist. Prints. —-Marc Antonio’s 
(fine). Lucas van Leyden’s (fine). Albert Diirer’s (fine). 
Rembrandt’s (in 8 volumes, the finest known). Van Dyck 
etchings (good). Early Italian School (numerous and fine.) 
Dutch etchings (the Sheepshanks collection, containing 
Waterloo, Berghem, P. Potter, A. Ostade, &c., the finest 
known). Sir Joshua Reynolds’s works (not all proofs). Raphael 
Morghen’s works, Faithorne’s works (in 5 volumes,very fine). 
Hogarth’s works (good). Crowle’s collections to illustrate 
Pennant’s London (cost 7000Z.). Works of Strange, Woollett 
and Sharp (good). Stothard’s works, in 4 volumes (fine). 

On a range of stands in the King's Library are framed 
some of the choicest specimens of drawings and engravings 
of all schools. 

The Collections of Natural History are arranged in galleries 
on the first floor of the buildings, and are reached from the 
entrance-hall by ascending the great staircase. 

Rooms 1, 2, 3, and 4.— Zoology. —This collection is supe¬ 
rior to that at Berlin, and inferior only to that in the Museum 
at Paris. In a case at the head of the stairs is a huge 
Gorilla, with its skeleton nearly 6 ft. high, shot by Mons. Du 
Chaillu; the largest specimen in Europe; also his wife and 
family. Mammalia Saloon. —In the wall-cases are specimens 
of Rapacious and Hoofed Beasts; and over the cases, the 
different kinds of Seals, Manatees, and Porpoises; and on 
the floor are placed the larger hoofed beasts, too large to 
be arranged in their proper places in the cases. Here, on 
the floor, is the Wild Ox from Chillingham Park, Northum- 


166 


XIX.—ZOOLOGY—MINERALOGY. 


berland. Eastern Zoological Qallei'y .—The wall-cases contain 
the collection of Birds; the smaller table-cases in each x’ecess 
contain birds’ Eggs, arranged in the same series as the birds ; 
the larger table-cases, in the centre of the room, contain the 
collection of Shells of Molluscous Animals; and on the top 



BOOM. 


FIRST FLOOR, 


ZOOLOGY, 


ST(MRS 


NORTH GALLERY. 

11 TO 16 FOSSILS AND MINEBALS. 


=5 M 


H O 


BRITISH 

MUSEUM. 

a2 W 


M 55 




KS H 


09 CO 


25 


K> O 


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26 ETHNOLOGY. 17, 18 BOTANY. 
SOUTH GALLERY. 


of the wall-cases is a series of Homs of hoofed quadrapeds. 
Here, among the Wading Bh’ds (Case 108), is the foot of the 
Dodo, a bird now extinct, only known by a few scanty 
remains, and by a painting here preserved, drawn, it is said, 
from a living bird brought from the Mauritius. 

Booms 11 to 16 .—Mineralogy and Geology, (in the H. 
Gallery).—The system adopted for the arrangement of the 
minerals, with occasional slight deviations, is that of Berzelius. 
The detail of this arrangement is partly supplied by the 
running titles at the outsides of the glass cases, and by the 
labels within them. Observe (in the Class of Native Iron, 
one of the largest collections known of meteoric stones or 
substances which have fallen from the sky, placed in chro- 
















XIX.—MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY. 


167 ' 


nological order).—Large fragment of the stone wliicli fell 
at Ensisheim, in Alsace, Nov. 7th, 1492, when the Empr. 
Maximilian was on the point of engaging with the French 
army: weighs 270 lb,;—meteoric stone from Melbourne, 
Australia : weighs 3 4 tons;—one of the many stones which 
fell (July 3rd, 1753) at Plaun, in Bohemia, and which contain 
a great proportion of iron; —specimens of those that were 
seen to fall at Barbotan, at Roquefort, and at Juliac, July 
24th, 1790;—one of a dozen stones of various weights and 
dimensions that fell at Sienna, Jan. 16th, 1794the meteoric 
stone, weighing 56 lb., which fell near Wold Cottage, in the 
parish of Thwing, Yorkshire, Dec. 13th, 1795; fragment of 
a stone of 20 lb., which fell in the commune of Sales, near 
Villefranche, in the department of the Rhone, March 12th, 
1798. Ohsei've, in Case 20, Dr. Dee’s Magic Show-stone, 
Fossil Organic Remains in the North Gallery. Obs. I. 
Fossil plants,sea-weeds; calaniites, &c., from the coal;—Sili- 
cified palm-trees, tropical fiaiits, wood bored by the Ship- 
worm ;—Cycas (called petrified crows’ nests), from I. of Port¬ 
land;—Fossil footmarks of animals. II. Extensive collec¬ 
tion of Fossil Fish from the chalk, Solenhofen Monte Bolca; 
The Silurian and Devonian rocks, coal, and old red sandstone. 
III. and IV, Reptiles. —Ichthyosaurus (fish-lizard); Plesio- 
saunis and Scelidosaurus (unique); Crocodiliana from the 
lias of Whitby, from Sheppey, and the Sewalik Hills; the 
* Archaeopteryx (unique), the oldest known fossil bird I 
from the oolite of Solenhofen, with long lizard-like tail, bear¬ 
ing a pair of feathers in each joint; the Iguanodon (colossal 
laud lizard); Hylaeosaurus and Deinosaurus, from Tilgate 
Forest (Mantells). V. Mammalian Remains .—The fossil Fox, 
of (Ehningen, the jaw-bones from Stonesfield slate, Oxford¬ 
shire ; the gigantic Marsupials of Australia; the Sivatherium, 
stag-like animal with proboscis, from the Sewalik Hills in 
India, found by Major Cautly and Dr. Falconer; Dinornis ; 
gigantic Moas (ostrich-like birds), from New Zealand; skele¬ 
ton, nearly perfect, of the Dodo, from Mauritius. In the 
centre of Room 15, is a complete skeleton of the large extinct 
Elk, bones of which are met with in the bogs of Ireland, and 
the Isle of Man (Cervus megaceros and C, giganteus). In 
Room 16, is the entire skeleton of the American Mastodon 
[Mastodon Ohioticus), and suite of separate bones and teeth 
of the same animal: the jaws, tusks, molar teeth and other 
osseous parts of Elephas primigenius, the Siberian Mammoth: 
the crania and other parts of extinct Indian Elephants. 
Megatherium, or extinct sloth, from Buenos Ayres ; Glypto- 
don, or extinct armadillo, the shell measured 12 ft. in length. 


168 


XIX.—ZOOLOGY—PORTRAITS. 


At the W. end of the same room is the fossil human skeleton 
from Guadaloupe, embedded in a limestone which is in pro¬ 
cess of formation at the present day. A case filled with 
remains of man and animals from a cave at Bruniquel, dept, 
of Aveyron, France; human sculls enclosed in tufas; flint 
implement; bones of reindeer and other animals fashioned 
by the flint; jaws and other bones of ox, split open for ex¬ 
tracting the marrow. 

Northern Zoological GaUery, Room 6.—The wall-cases con¬ 
tain a series of the Skulls of the larger Mammalia, to illus¬ 
trate the characters of the families and genera; of the Nests 
of Birds, arbours of the two species of Bower Bird; the one 
ornamented with fresh water shells and bones, and the other 
with feathers and land shells, &c. The table-cases: —the 
tubes of Annulose Animals, the casts of the interior cavities 
of Shells, and various specimens of shells, illustrative of the 
diseases and malformation of those animals. Room 7.—The 
wall-cases contain the collection of Reptiles and Batrachian 
Animals, preserved dry and in spirits; and the table-cases 
the first part of the collection of the hard part of Radiated 
Animals, including Sea Eggs, Sea Stars, and Encrinites. 
Room 8.—The wall cases contain the Handed and Glirine 
Mammalia, and the table-cases the different kinds of Corals. 
Room 9.—The wall-cases contain the collection of Fish, and 
the table-cases a few specimens of Annulose Animals, to ex¬ 
hibit their systematic arrangement. 

The collection of Insects and Crustacea are preserved in 
cabinets. They may be seen by persons wishing to consult 
them for the purpose of study (by application to the Keeper 
of the Zoological Collection) every Tuesday and Thiusday. 
To prevent disappointment, it is requested that persons 
wishing to see those collections will apply two days previous 
to their intended visit. Room 10.—The wall-cases contain 
the Molluscous and Radiated Animals in spirits. Over the 
wall-cases is a very large Wasp’s Nest from India; and some 
Neptime’s Cups—a kind of sponge—from Singapore. Table- 
ca^es: —Sponges of different kinds, showing their various 
forms and structure, and some preserved in flint of the 
same character. 

Rooms 17, 18— The Botanical Collection is very large, and 
consists principally of the Herbaria of Sir Joseph Banks and 
Mr. Robert Brown; 300 vols. of plants, collected by Sir 
Hans Sloane; the Dutch Hortus Cliffortianus, described by 
Linnaeus himself; Burmann’s Ceylon Plants. 

Portraits —(on the walls of the E. Zoological Gallery)—116 in 
number, and not very good. A few, however, deserve to be 


XIX.—NATIONAL GALLERY. 


169 


mentioned:—Vesalius, by Sir Antonio Afore. Captain William 
Dampier, by Murray (both fix)m the Sloane Collection). Sir 
Robert Cotton, the founder of the Cottonian Library. Sir 
William Cotton, bis son, Robert, Earl of Oxford, and Edward, 
Earl of Oxford (both presented by the Duchess Dowager of 
Portland). Humphrey Wanley. George Yertue (presented 
by his widow). Sir Hans Sloane, half-length, by SlaugfUei\ 
Dr. Birch. Andrew MarveU. Alexander Pope. Matthew 
Prior, by Hudson, from an original by Richardson, Oliver 
Cromwell, by Walker (bequeathed, 1784, by Sir Robert 
Rich, Bart., to whose great-grandfether, Nathaniel Rich, 
Esq., then serving as a Colonel of Horse in the Parlia¬ 
mentary Army, it was presented by Cromwell himself). 
Mary Davis, an inhabitant of Great SaughaU in Cheshire, 
taken 1668, ^^cetatis 74:” (at the age of 28 an excrescence 
grew upon her head, like a wen, which continued 30 years, 
and then grew into two horns, one of which the profile 
represents). Thomas Britton, the mrisical small-coad-man, 
“cBtatis 61, 1703,” painted by J. Woolaston and formerly the 
property of Sir Hans Sloane. Miscdlaneous Curiosities. —A 
gold snuff-box set with diamonds, and ornamented with a 
miniatxire portrait of Napoleon, by whom it was presented, 
in 1815, to the late Hon. Mrs. Darner. Another, less hand¬ 
some, presented by Napoleon to Lady Holland. 

The NATIONAL GALLERY occupies the N. side of Tra- 
falgar-square, the site of the King’s Mews, The building is 
at present divided between the national collection of Paint¬ 
ings of the Old Masters, filling the W. half; and the Royal 
Academy, occupying the E, half, in which exhibitions of 
modem works are held from May to July. The National 
Gallery was founded in 1824, and the present building 
erected, 1832-38, from the designs of W. Wilkins, R.A, at a 
cost of 96,000Z. The columns of the portico were those of 
Carlton Home. The Royal Academy will shortly be removed 
to a new building in Burlington Gardens, and the National 
Gallery will retain its position in an entirely new edifice, to 
be extended over the site of the Workhouse behind, which 
is bought for 67,000?. 

The National Gallery is open on Monday, Tues., Wed., and 
Sat, to the public; on Thurs. and Fri. to artists; from 10 
till 5 from Nov. to April,—and from 10 till 6 in 3Iay, Jime, 
July, August, and the first two weeks of September. The 
Gallery is wholly closed during the last two weeks of 
September and the month of October. 

The National Gallery originated in the purchase by Gk>vem- 


170 


XIX.—NATIONAL GALLERY. 


ment, in 1824, of Mr. Angeretein’s collection of 38 pictures 
for 57,000^. In 1826, Sir Geo. Beaumont gave 16 pictures, 
valued at 7500 guineas. Important bequests by the Eev. W. 
Holwell Carr, Lord Farnborough, and others, independently 
of the Turner bequest and of Mr. Vernon’s noble gift of 162 
works of the English school. Though inferior in extent to 
the six great galleries on the Continent, at the present 
moment it is scarcely second to any in the value and choice¬ 
ness of the works it contains, and in the number of paintings 
authenticated by the descriptions of Vasari and other contem¬ 
porary authorities. Down to 1861 the nation expended in 
the purchase of 234 pictures, 104,505Z.; 259 pictures have 
been given, and 240 bequeathed. The National Gallery owes 
its actual pre-eminence to the very important accessions it 
has obtained during the administration of the late Sir Charles 
Eastlake; especially in works of the Italian Schools, some of 
them from the Lombardi and Beaucousin Galleries. The 
Italian Hall, opened 1861, contains 60 paintings, for the 
most part chefs-d'ceuvre of the greatest masters of Italian 
art, hardly to be matched for excellence in the whole of 
Europe : nearly all painted within a space of fifty years! 
The total number of pictures is about 800 — but many 
of these are exhibited, from want of room. Mr. Womum’s 
is the best catalogue of the pictures, and may be had in the 
Gallery. Below are enumerated some of the best pictures 
by the best masters. 


Italian School. 

Francesco Francia : the Virgin and Child with Saints; the Lunette 
or Arch forming the top of the same altarpiece; purchased from the 
Lucca Collection for 3500Z. —Sebastian del Piombo : the Raising of 
Lazanis. “ The most important specimen of the Italian School now 
in England.”— Waagen. It was painted in competition with Raphael’s 
Transfiguration. The figure of Lazarus (very fine) attributed on good 
gi’ounds to Michael Angelo. This was an Orleans picture, and cost 
Mr. Angerstein 3500 guineas.— Raphael; St. Catherine of Alexan¬ 
dria; purchased, 1838, for 5000?.: the Vision of a Knight (fine); pur¬ 
chased for 1050?.: the Murder of the Innocents; part of a Cartoon.— 
The Aldobrandini, or Garvagh Raphael, a small Holy Family 
(named from former owners), cost 9000?.—L. da Vinci, or Luini : 
Christ disputing with the Doctors.— Pietro Perugino: The Virgin 
adoring the Infant Saviour; in the side compartment, the Archangel 
Michael and Raphael, with Tobias; a first-rate work, painted for 
the Certosa at Pavia, purchased for 4000?. from the Melzi family. 
— Correggio: Mercury teaching Cupid to read in (the presence of 
Venus (very fine): Ecce Homo. These two were purchased from the 
Marquis of Londonderry for 10,000 guineas. The Holy Family: “La 
Vierge au Panier” (very fine); purchased in 1847, for 3800?. —Or¬ 
cagna: Coronation of the Virgin; perhaps the finest work of the 
master in any Gallery. — Paolo Ucello (a very rare master); 
Rattle of St. Giles.— Fra Filippo Lippi,—Boegonone (most rare).— 
Benozzo Gozzoli : Coronation of Virgin described by Vasari ; the Rape 


XIX.—NATIONAL GALLERY. 


171 


of Helen.— Pollaiuolo : Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, praised by Vasari, 
and studied by Michael Angelo.— Ghirlandajo; Virgin and Infant 
Jesus.— Filippino Lippi: St. Jerome and St. Dominic adoring the 
Infant Jesus.— Bellini: Virgin and Child: Portrait of Doge Loredano. 
— Giorgione: Death of Peter Martyr (from Orleans G.): Knight in 
Armour (Mr.Rogers’ bequest).— Titian : Bacchus and Ariadne; a marvel 
of harmony aud richness of colour: Holy Family Reposing: Portrait of 
Ariosto: The Tribute Money, from Marshal Soult’s collection; cost 
2604Z.— Mobetto: The Virgin surrounded by Saints (Northwick 
Gallery).— Fra Angelico: Christ assembling the Blessed after the 
last Judgment; a predella, in five compartments, from the church at 
Fiesoli(186l).— Cimabue : The Virgin surrounded by Angels, described 
by Vasari.— Carracci (Annibal) : Christ appearing to St. Peter, from 
the Aldobrandini Collection. “ This little picture is admirably executed 
throughout.”— IFaaffen. Pan or Silenus teaching Apollo to play on the 
reed pipe.— Carracci (Ludovico) : Susannah and the Elders; an 
Orleans picture.— Guido : the Magdalen: Susannah and the Elders; 
purchased by Government for 1260i.— Claude : Landscape, Cephalus 
andProcris; painted in 1645; Landscape, called the “ Chigi Claude” 
(fine); cost Mr. Carr 2705 guineas; a Seaport, called the “Bouillon 
Claude ” (very fine); cost Mr. Angerstein 4000Z.; the figures represent 
the Embarkation of the Queen of Sheba: Landscape, with the story of 
Narcissus: a Seaport; the figures represent the Embarkation of St. 
Ursula and her attendant Virgins (very fine): a Landscape, Death of 
Procris: a Group of Trees : Landscape, Hagar and her Son in the 
Desert (fine).— Salvator Rosa : Landscape with the fable of Mercury 
and the Woodman; purchased by Parliament, in 1834, for 1680i!.— Paul 
Veronese: Tent of Darius; from the Pisani Palace, Venice; pur¬ 
chased 1857, for £14,000: “ The finest work of the master in Italy.” — 
Jiusitin .— Canaletti : View in Venice (fine). 

Spanish School. 

Velasquez : Philip IV. of Spain hunting the Wild Boar (very fine); 
purchased in 1846, for 22001. — Murillo : the Holy Family; four figures, 
life-size; purchased in 1837, for 3000Z.: the Infant St. John with the 
Lamb; purchased, at Sir Simon Clarke’s sale, for 2100^. 

Flemish School. 

John Van Eyck : Portraits of a Flemish Gentleman and a Lady, 
(very fine); under the mirror is written, “Johannes de Eyck fuit 
hie 1434;” purchased in 1842, for 600 guineas: small Portrait, 
bought (1851) for 365Z.— Rubens: the Rape of the Sabines: Peace 
and War (fine), presented by Rubens to Charles I.; bought by the 
Marquis of Stafford for 3000L, and presented by him to the National 
Gallery : the Brazen Serpent: a Landscape ; Rubens’s Chateau (fine) ; 
cost Sir George Beaumont 1500Z.: Apotheosis of William the Taciturn; 
a sketch for the large design at Osterley, the seat of Lord Jersey (fine); 
purchased in 1842, for 2001. : the Judgment of Paris (very fine); an 
Orleans picture; purchased 1847, for 42003.— Van Dyck: St. Ambrosius 
refusing to admit the Emperor Theodosius into the church at Milan 
(fine); cost Mr. .Angerstein 16003.: a Portiait called Gevartius (one of 
the finest portraits in the world); cost Mr. Angerstein 3753.— Rembrandt : 
the Woman taken in Adultery (very fine); Mr. Angerstein bought it for 
52503.: Portrait of a Jew-merchant, life-size, three-quarters: Chri&t 
taken down from the Cross; a study in black and white (fine): the 
Adoration of the Shepherds.— Cuyp : a Landscape, Huntsman on a 
dappled grey horse (fine); bought by Mr. Angerstein at Sir Laurence 
Dundas’s sale, in 1794, for 2043.15s.— Arnold Vandeb Neer: a Land¬ 
scape, Evening.— Nicholas Maes : a Girl peeling parsneps (fine).— 
David Teniers : the Misers (very fine). 


172 


XTX.—SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. 


French School. 

Sebastian Bourdon : the Keturn of the Ark (belonged to Sir Joshua 
Reynolds, who praises it in his Discourses).—N. Poussin: a Landscape 
a Dance of Bacchanals in honour of Pan (very fine).—G. Poussin 
Landscape; the figures represent Abraham preparing to sacrifice his son 
Isaac: a Land-storm: a classical Landscape, with the story of Dido and 
.(Eneas (fine): View of Lerici (fine): an Italian Landscape; cost Lord 
Farnborough 700 guineas. 

The Turner Gallery consists of 120 of J. M. W, Turner’s finest 
works, bequeathed by him to the nation, together with his drawings, 
valued at the sum of £400,000, occupying a hall by themselves. 
Observe —Calais Pier; The Shipwi'eck; Battle of Trafalgar; The Black¬ 
smith’s Shop (in imitation of Wilkie); Crossing the Brook; Building 
of Carthage; The Frosty Morning; Ulysses deriding Polyphemus 
(1829); The Old T^m^raire (1839). 

Two fine Landscapes, by J. M. W. Turner, left (1852) to the 
British nation, on condition that they should be hung as companions to 
the Claudes in the National Gallery, which has been complied with. 

Observe. —In the Hall: Statue of Sir David Wilkie, by 
S. Joseph; Wilkie’s palette is let into the pedestal. Alto- 
relievo, by T. Banks, R.A., Thetis and her Nymphs rising from 
the sea to condole with Achilles on the loss of Patroclus (fine). 

The NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, founded 1858, 
at the suggestion of Earl Stanhope, who is the first President, 
is placed temporarily in the house No. 29, Great George 
Street, and is open Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays 
from 12 to 4. 

The collection, though at present in its infancy, contains 
more than 200 interesting portraits of British worthies, 
among them Sir Walter Raleigh, Shakespeare (Chandos por¬ 
trait, from Stowe);—by Reynolds, Himself, Adm. Keppel, 
and Sir William Chambers; by Romney, Cumberland; by 
Walker, Ireton; hj Kneller, Judge Jeffries; by Lawrence, 
Wilberforce (a head) and Sir Jas. Mackintosh; by Abbott, 
Nollekens; by Beechey, Mrs. Siddons; by Naysmith, Robt. 
Burns by Wilkie, himself; Queen Elizabeth, Mary Queen of 
Scots, Princess Charlotte, Pope, Dryden, Waller, Steele, 
Prior, Byron:—Lord Clive, Wolfe, Nelson, Gen. Picton, 
Pitt, Fox, Walpole, Temple, Lord Wm. Russell, Sam. Pepys, 
Dan. O’Connell, W. Cobden, and Nell Gwynn. George 
Scharf, Esq., is the learned keeper. 

SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM, Brompton, close to 
Brompton Church, 1 mile from Hyde Park Corner, built 
upon the estate purchased with the surplus funds derived 
from the Exhibition of 1851. It is also approached from the 
Kensington Road and Hyde Park by Exhibition Road. 


XIX.—VERNON AND SHEEPSHANKS COLLECTION. 173 


This, the head-quarters of the Government Department 
of Science and Art, formerly in Marlborough House, is under 
the able management of Henry Cole, C.B., and is daily aug¬ 
menting in interest and importance. The collections have 
hitherto been placed partly in a range of ugly boiler-roofed 
buildings, but a permanent GaUery, of grand design in brick 
and terra cotta, from the late Capt. Fowkes’ plans, is nearly 
finished, and will be one of the architectural ornaments of 
London. Its contents belong to ornamental art in all its 
branches; specimens or casts or models of the finest works 
of art from all parts of Europe—the museum of patents— 
courts of Italian and modern sculpture. Cartoon Gallery, 
and gallery of British art; materials used in construction ; 
animal products; food; educational apparatus; school-books, 
&c. ; the whole designed for the instruction and profitable 
study of the working classes, as well as for the general 
recreation of all. Here are arranged specimens of sculpture 
and architectural ornament of all ages and countries— 
mural paintings—encaustic tiles—mosaics—painted glass— 
photographic drawings—engravings, &c., &c. To these are 
joined the Educational Collections formed by the Govern¬ 
ment, a well-stocked Library of Reference, where the most 
costly works of art. Galleries, Illustrations, &c., may be con¬ 
sulted upon the small payment of one penny, and a lecture- 
room ; also waiting and refreshment rooms, furnished with 
lavatories, where a cup of coffee may be had for 2d. 

Admission. — Monday, Tuesday, and Saturday, free; 
from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m. (N.B. the galleries are lighted at 
night). Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, students’ days: 
admission to public, 6d., from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. 

The Museum of Patents, temporarily placed here, contains 
an accumulation of machines and models, among which are 
some real curiosities, as—the original spinning and carding 
machine of ArTcwi'ight; model of first locomotive (Trevi¬ 
thick’s) ; the beam-engine model made by James Watt; the 
first steam-engine for ships (Millar of Dalswinton and Sym¬ 
ington) ; a collection of portraits of great inventors. 

THE BRITISH SCHOOLS; VERNON and SHEEP¬ 
SHANKS COLLECTION, belonging to the National Gallery. 

Paintings of the English School. 

IIUYSMAN : Original Portrait of Izaak Walton, the angler.—II ogakth : 
Portrait of Himself (the well-known engraved head); the Marriage k la 
Mode (a series of six pictures, Hogarth’s greatest work; the character 
inimitable, the colouring excellent). Hogarth received for the six pic- 


174 xix. —Vernon and sheepshanks gallery. 


tiires 110 guineas: Mr. Angerstein paid 1381Z. for them.—R. Wilson: 
Maecenas’ Villa; Grand Landscape, with the story of Niobe and her 
children.— Gainsborough : the Market-cart; the Watering-place.—Mrs. 
S'ddons (cost lOOOl.).— Sir Joshua Rkynolds : Portrait of Lord Heath- 
lield with the keys of the fortress of Gibraltar; Studies of Angels, five 
heads, life-size. - Lawrence : John Philip Kemble, as Hamlet; Ben¬ 
jamin West, P.R.A.— Wilkie: the Blind Fiddler, painted for 50 
guineas for Sir George Beaumont: the Village Festival, painted for 
Jlr. Angerstein.— Constable, R.A.: the Corn-field.— Gilbert Stuart: 
Portrait of Woollett, the engraver. 

The late John Sheepshanks, son of a cloth manufacturer at 
I.eeds, while yet alive, bestowed on the nation a collection 
of 234 oil paintings, chiefly of modern British artists, — 
formed by himself, — besides drawings, &c., valued at 
60,000Z. It includes some of the finest and most popular 
works of the English school: including Wilkies Broken 
Jar, and Duncan Gray; Mulready^s Choosing the Wedding 
Gown, Giving a Bite, First Love ; Sir Edwin Landseer's Jack 
in Office, Highland Drovers, the Shepherd’s Chief Mourner, 
Twa Dogs, &c.; C. R. Leslie's Uncle Toby and the Widow 
Wadman, Catherine and Petrucchio, and the Merry Wives of 
Windsor; Rosa Bonheur, The Horse Fair. 

The Vernon Collection of the English School. 

(162 pictures, presented to the nation in 1847 by Robert Vernon, Esq., 
who died in 1849.) 

Sir Joshua Reynolds: the Age of Innocence, cost 1450 guineas; 
Groups of Angels’ hpads; the Infant Samuel.— Gainsborough: Land¬ 
scape, Sunset; the Young Cottagers.— Richard Wilson: four small 
pictures.— Loutherbourg : small Landscape— Sir A. W. Callcott, 
R.A.: Littlehampton Pier; Coast Scene; Crossing the Brook.— 
AVilkie: the Newsmongers; the Bagpiper; the First Ear-ring; the 
Whiteboy’s Cabin.— E. Bird, R.A.: the Raffle for the AVatch.— Cons¬ 
table, R.A.: His Father’s Mill.— Collins, R.A.: Happy as a King; 
Prawn Fishers.—G. S. Newton, R.A.: Sterne and the Grisette.—P. 
Nasmyth: small Landscape in the manner of Hobbema.—AV. Etty', 
R.A.: Youth at the Prow and Pleasure at the Helm (fine); the 
Bathers.— Turner, R.A.: William III. landing at Torbay; Com¬ 
position Landscape (fine); Two Views in Venice. 

Stanfield, R.A.: the Entrance to the Zuyder Zee.— David Roberts, 
R.A.: Interior of St. Paul’s at Antwerp.— T. Uwins, R.A.: Claret 
Vintage.— F. R. Lee, R.A.: two Landscapes. — T. Creswick, R.A.: 
Landscape.— Edwin Landseer, R.A.: Peace and War, companion 
pictures; Highland Piper and Dogs ; Spaniels of King Charles’s breed; 
the Dying Stag; High Life and Low Life Dogs.—AV. Mulready*, R.A.: 
the Last In; the Ford. —T. AVebster, R.A. : the Dame’s School. — D. 
Maclise, R.A.: the Play Scene in Hamlet; Malvolio and the Countess. 
— Sir C. L. Eastlake, P.R.A.: Christ weeping over Jerusalem.— C. 
R. Leslie, R.A.: Sancho and the Duchess (Leslie’s greatest work), 
Uncle Toby looking into the eye of A\’’idow AV adman.—E. AI. AA^ard 
A.R.A.: the Disgrace of Clarendon; ’Change Alley during the South 
Sea Bubble.—J. Linnell: Landscape.—E. AV. Cooke, A.R.A.: two Sea 


xix.~DrLwicn gallery. 


175 


pieces.— Sidney Coopek, A.R.A. : a Cattle piece.—F. Danby, A.R.A. : 
Landscape.— Augustus Egg, A.R.A.: Scene from Gil Bias.— F.Goodall, 
A.R.A.: the Village Festival. 

The Cartoons of Raphael were brought from Hampton 
Court, 1865, and placed in a gallery expressly provided for 
them. There is a want of light to see them properly, blinds 
being drawn to prevent injury by the sun. But much 
greater injury is to be apprehended from the penetrating 
soot of the London atmosphere. 

In 1862 two spacious Courts, devoted to objects of art, 
glazed and surrounded by cloisters, were opened to the public. 
—decorated on the wall-spaces above with a series of portraits 
of artists of all countries in modern mosaics. These Comds 
are devoted to objects of art, the finest specimens of their 
class—Italian, French, German, and English—purchased for 
the nation, including objects selected from the Oam'pana 
Museum, formerly at Rome. Observe — Chimneypiece by 
Donatello, from S. Miniato in Florence; Balcony or singing- 
loft, by Baccio d’Agnola, from a church at Florence; frag¬ 
ments of a Marble Pulpit, by Nic. Pisano, from the Baptistery, 
and cast of another by his son Giovanni, from 'the Cathedral 
at Pisa ; statuette from the tomb of Charles the Bold at 
Dijon ; works in terra-cotta, by Luca della Robbia and other 
Italian artists; carvings in ivory, stone, wood, &c.; majolica 
of all countries; enamels of Limoges, &c.; glass; works in 
metal, locks, keys, armour; bronzes, &c.; pavements— 
mosaic, encaustic. Here is placed, by permission of the 
Dean of St. Paul’s, Wren’s first and favourite plan for the 
rebuilding of the Cathedral. This is interesting, as it shows 
how well Wren was aware of the difficulties he had to con¬ 
tend with in his art, and how completely he had foreseen 
the minor objections raised to particular parts of the pre¬ 
sent building. The dome, however, of the present Cathedral 
is surely finer than any part of the rejected model. 

Contiguous to this Museum are the Horticultural Gar¬ 
dens ; and between them and the Kensington-road, is to 
be erected a great covered amphitheatre, to be called the 
Central Hall of Arts and Sciences j to be devoted to music, 
dancing, lectures, exhibitions, &c., surrounded by tiers of 
boxes and stalls like the Opera. The foundation stone was 
laid by the Queen in May, 1867. 

DULWICH GALLERY, at Dulwich, 5 m. from Waterloo 
Bridge, is open every day except Sundays. Hours from 
10 to 5. You can reach it by omnibus from Chai’ing 
Cross and the Elephant and Castle in Lambeth; also 


176 


XIX.—DULWICH GALLERY. 


by Chatham and Dover Railway. This collection, the 
only one freely accessible to the public which affords 
an opportunity of studying the Dutch masters, was founded 
by Sir Francis Bourgeois, R.A. (d. 1811), who left 354 
pictures to the College, 10,000^. to erect and keep in 
repair a building for their reception, and 2000^. to provide 
for the care of the pictures. Bourgeois asked John Philip 
Kemble where he should build a gallery for his pictures, 
and Kemble, an actor, recommended God’s Gift College, 
at Dulwich, erected in the reign of James I. by Edward 
Alleyn, the keeper of the bears to James I., actor and rival 
of Richard Bui’badge. The hint was taken, and the pre¬ 
sent Galleiy attached to the College built in 1812, from 
the designs of Sir John Soane. The Murillos and Cuyps are 
especially fine. Observe — 

Murillo : the Flower Girl, No. 248; Spanish Boys, Nos. 283 and 284; 
the Madonna del Rosario, No. 341; Meeting of Jacob and Rachel, No. 
294.— CuYP (in all 19): a Landscape, No. 68; Banks of a Canal, No. 76; 
a Landscape, No. 169, the finest of the 19 ; Ditto, No. 192; Ditto, No. 239; 
Ditto, No. 163.— Teniers (in all 21): a Landscape, No. 139; a Land¬ 
scape, with Gipsies, No. 155; the Chaff Cutter, No. i85 (fine).— Hobbema : 
the Mill, No. 131.— Rembrandt : Jacob’s Dream, No. 179; a Girl leaning 
out of a Window, No. 206.— Rubens: Samson and Dalilah, No. 168: 
Mars, Venus, and Cupid, No. 351 (the Mars a portrait of Rubens himself 
when young); Maria Pypeling, the Mother of Rubens, No, 355.— Van 
Dyck : Charity, No. 124; Virgin and Child, No. 135; Philip, 5th Earl of 
Pembroke (half-length). No. 214; “ The head is very delicate; the hand 
effaced by cleaning.”— Waagen; Susan, Countess of Pembroke, No, 134; 
“quite ruined by cleaning.”— Waagen .— Wouvermans: View on the Sea 
Shore, No.93; a Landscape, No. 173; Ditto, No. 228.— Berghem : a Land¬ 
scape, No. 200; Ditto, No. 209.—Born: a Landscape, No. 36.— Velas¬ 
quez : Prince of Spain on Horseback, No. 194 Philip IV. of Spain 
(three-quai'ters). No. 309 Head of a Boy, No.222.— Adrian Brouwer : 
Interior of a Cabaret, No. 54.—A. Ostade : Boors Merry-making, No. 
190; “ of astonishing depth, clearness, and warmth of colour.”— Waagen. 
— Karel du Jardyn: the Farrier’s Shop, No. 229.— VanderWerff: 
the Judgment of Paris, No. 191.— Van Huy'sum : Flowers in a Vase, 
No. 121; Flowers, No. 140.— Pynaker : a Landscape, No. 150.— Wat¬ 
teau: le Bal Champetre, No. 210.— Titian: Europa, a Study, No.230. 
—P. Veronese : St. Catherine of Alexandria, No. 268; a Cardinal, No. 
333.— Guerctno: the Woman taken in Adultery, No. 348.— Annibal 
Carracci: the Adoration of the Shepherds, No. 349.— Guido: Europa, 
No. 259; Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, No. 339; St. John tlie‘Baptist 
Preaching in the Wilderness, No.331 (fine).— Caravaggio: the Lock¬ 
smith, No. 299.— Claude : Embarkation of Sa. Paula from the Port 
of 0.stia, No. 270.—S. Rosa : a Landscape, No. 220; Soldiers Gambling, 
No. 271.—G. Poussin : a Landscape, No. 257.—N. Poussin : the Inspi¬ 
ration of the Poet, No. 295; the Nursing of Jupiter, No. 300; the 
Triumph of David, No. 305; the Adoration of the Magi, No. 291; 
Rinaldo and Armida, No. 315 (fine).— Francesco Mola : St, Sebastian, 
No. 261.— Gainsborough : Mrs. Sheridan and Mrs. Tickell (full-lengths, 
very fine). Mrs. Sheridan was Maria Linley, the first wife of R. B. She¬ 
ridan, the dramatist, No. 1.— Opie : Portrait of Himself, No. 3. —Sir T. 
Lawrence : Portrait of William Linley (near No. 222). 


XIX.—DULWICH—COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. IVT 


The Mrs. Siddons and his own Portrait, by Sir Joshua, are indifferent 
duplicates of the well-known originals in the Grosvenor Gallery and the 
Queen’s Gallery at Windsor. 

In the College and Master’s apartments are the following 
interesting portraits, partly bequests of Cartwright, an actor, 
1687 

Edward Alleyn, the founder, full-length, black dress, hut much in¬ 
jured. Richard Burbadge, master, “a small closet-piece.” Nat Field, 
the poet and actor, “ in his shirt, on a board.” Tom Bond, the actor. 
Richard Perkins, the actor, three-quarters, long white hair. Cartwright 
(senior), one of the Prince Palatine’s players. Cartwright (junior), an 
actor, in a black dress, with a great dog. Michael Drayton, the poet, 
“ in a black frame.” Lovelace, the poet, by Dobson (fine). Lovelace’s 
Althea, with her hair dishevelled. John G reenhill, “ the most promising 
of Lely’s scholars” {^Walpole), by himself. 

In the College is preserved Philip Henslowe’s Diary and 
Account-book, one of the most valuable documents we possess 
in illustration of the drama and stage in the time of Queen 
Elizabeth. The Revenue of Dulwich College is increased 
to about 15,000^. a-year, of which two-thirds go to the sup¬ 
port of the School, and the rest in eleemosynary dispositions. 
The New, School on Dulwich Common is a very handsome 
edifice of brick and terra cotta, erected 1866-67, from 
designs of Charles Barry, Jun., at a cost of more than 
100 , 000 ^. 

The ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, on the S. side 
of Lincoln’s-Inn-fields, was built, 1835, from the designs of Sir 
Charles Barry, R.A., and is said to have cost 40,000^. 

The Museum is open to a Member’s written order, on 
Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, from 12 
to 4 o’clock; except in September. It originated in the pur¬ 
chase for 15,000?., by parliament, of the Hunterian Collec¬ 
tion formed by John Hunter in 1728, at Long Caldorwood, 
near Glasgow. He died in St. George’s Hospital, London, 
in 1793. The Collection is arranged in two apartments— 
one called the “ Physiological Department, or Normal 
Structures;” the other the “Pathological Department, or 
Abnormal Structures;” — the number of specimens is 
augmented to upwards of 23,000. Observe .—Skeleton (8 feet 
in height) of Charles Byrne or O’Brian, the Irish giant, 
who died in Cockspur-street, in 1783, at the age of 22. 
He measured, when dead, 8 feet 4 inches.—Skeleton (20 
inches in height) of Caroline Crachami, the Sicilian dwarf, 
who died in Bond-street, in 1824, in the 10th year of her 
nge.-- Plaster-cast of the idght hand of Patrick Cotter, an 

N 


178 


XIX.—COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. 


Il’ish giant, wliose height, in 1802, was 8 feet 7 inches and a 
half.—Plaster-cast of the left hand of M. Louis, the French 
giant, whose height was 7 feet 4 inches.—Skeleton of Chunee, 
an elephant bi'ought to England 1810—exhibited for a time 
on the stage of Covent-garden Theatre, and subsequently 
by Mr. Cross, at Exeter ’Change. In consequence of inflam¬ 
mation of the large pulp of one of the tusks, Chunee, in 
1826, became so ungovernably violent that it was found 
necessary to kill him. Amid the shower of balls, he knelt 
down at the well-known voice of his keeper, to present a 
more vulnerable point to the soldiers employed to shoot 
him. — Skeleton of the Megatherium, an extinct gigantic 
sloth; portions of the Mylodon,a gigantic extinct armadillo.— 
Skeleton of the gigantic extinct deer {Megaceros Hibemicus, 
commonly but eri’oneously called the Irish elk”), from a 
bed of shell marl beneath a peat-bog near Limerick. The 
span of the antlers is 8 feet. Part of the skeleton of the 
Glyptodon (unique), found near Buenos Ayres.—Female mon¬ 
strous foetus, found m the abdomen of Thomas Lane, a lad 
between 15 and 16 years of age, at Sherborne, in Dorset¬ 
shire, June 6th, 1814.—Imperfectly formed male foetus, 
found in the abdomen of John Hare, an infant between 9 
and 10 months old, born May 8th, 1807.—Human female 
twin monster, the bodies of which are united crosswise, 
sacrum to sacrum; the mother was between 16 and 17 
years of age.—Intestines of Napoleon, showing the progress 
of the disease which carried him off.—Cast in wax of the 
band uniting the bodies of the Siamese twins.—Iron pivot 
of a try-sail mast, and two drawings of John Taylor, a 
seaman, through whose chest the blunt end of the pivot 
was driven. While guiding the pivot of the try-sail mast 
into the main-boom, on board a brig in the London Docks, 
the tackle gave way, and the pivot passed obliquely through 
his body and penetrated the deck. In spite of this and 
other injuries, in five months he was enabled to walk 
from the hospital to the College of Surgeons, and back 
again. He returned to his duty as a seaman, and twice, at 
intervals of about a year, revisited the College in a robust 
state of liealth. The try-sail mast was 39 feet long, and 
about 600 pounds in weight.—Portions of a skeleton of a 
rhinoceros, discovered in a limestone cavern at Oreston, near 
Plymouth, during the formation of the Plymouth breakwater. 

.—Embalmed body of the first wife of the late Martin Van 
Butchell, prepared at his request, 1775, by Dr. William Hunter 
and Ml’. Cruikshank, by injecting the vascular system with 
oil of turpentine and camphorated spii’it of wine. 


XIX.—SOANE MUSEUM. 


179 


TFoj'Z-s of Art .—Portrait of John Hunter, by Sir Joshua 
Reynolds; the well-known picture so finely engraved by 
Sharp: it has sadly faded. Posthumous bust of John Hunter, 
by Flaxman.' Bust of Cline, by Chantrey. 

SOANE MUSEUM, 13, Lincoln’s Inn Fields, north side; 
formed and founded in his own house by Sir John Soane, 
son of a bricklayer at Reading, and architect of the Bank of 
England (d. 1837). 

The Soane Museum is open to general visitors on Wednes¬ 
days, Thursdays, and Fridays from 10 to 4 during the months 
of April, May, June, July, and August. 

Tickets are obtained on application at the hall and entering 
the name in a book. 

Access to the Books, Drawings, MSS., or permission to 
copy Pictures or other Works of Ai-t, is to be obtained by 
special application to the Trustees or the Curator. 

The house was built in 1812, and the collection is dis¬ 
tributed over 24 rooms. There is much that is valuable, 
and a good deal not worth much. Every corner and passage 
is turned to account. On the north and west sides of the 
Picture-room are Cabinets, and on the south are Moveable 
Shutters, with sufficient space between for pictures. By this 
arrangement, the small space of 13 feet 8 inches in length, 
12 feet 4 inches in breadth, and 19 feet 6 inches high, is 
rendered capable of containing as many pictures as a gallery 
of the same height, 45 feet long and 20 feet broad. Observe 
—The Egyptian Sarcophagus, discovered by Belzoni, Oct. 
19th, 1810, in a tomb in the valley of Biban el Malook, near 
Gournou. It is formed of one single piece of alabaster, or 
arragonite, measuring 9 feet 4 inches in length by 3 feet 8 
inches in width, and 2 feet 8 inches in depth, and covered 
internally and externally with elaborate hieroglyphics. 
When a lamp is placed within it, the light shines through, 
though it is 2^ inches in thickness. On the interior of the 
bottom is a full-length figure, representing the Egyptian Isis, 
the guardian of the dead. It was purchased by Soane, from 
Mr. Salt, in 1824, for 2000Z. The raised lid or cover, broken 
into nineteen fragments, lies beneath it. Sir Gardner 
Wilkinson considers that it is a cenotaph rather than a 
sarcophagus, and the name inscribed to be that of Osirei, 
father of Rameses the Great.— Sixteen original sketches and 
models, by Flaxman, including a cast of the Shield of 
Achilles.—Six original sketches and models by T. Banks, 
R.A., including the Boothby Monument, one of his finest 
works.—A large collection of ancient gems, entaglios, &c., 

N 2 


180 XIX.—SOANE MUSEUM—EAST INDIAN MUSEUM. 

under glass, and in a very good liglit. Set of the Napoleon 
medals, selected by the Baron Denon for the Empress 
Josephine, and once in her possession. — Sir Christopher 
Wren’s watch.—Carved and gilt ivory table and four ivory 
chairs, formerly in Tippoo Saib’s palace at Seringapatam. 
—Eichly mounted pistol, said to have been taken by Peter 
the Great from the Bey, Commander of the Turkish army at 
Azof, 1696, and presented by the Emperor Alexander to 
Napoleon, at the Treaty of Tilsit in 1807 : Napoleon took it 
to St. Helena, from whence it was brought by a French 
officer, to whom he had pi*esented it.—The original copy of 
the Gerusalemme Liberata, in the handwriting of Tasso. 
—First four folio editions of Shakspeare (J. P. Kemble’s 
copies).—A folio of designs for Elizabethan and blames I. 
houses by John Thorpe, an architect of those reigns.—Faunt- 
leroy’s Illustrated copy of Pennant’s London; purchased by 
Soane for 650 guineas.—Commentary on St. Paul’s Epistles, 
illuminated by Giulio Clovio for Cardinal Grimani.—Three 
Canalettis —one A View on the Grand Canal of Venice, 
extremely fine.—The Snake in the Grass, or Love unloosing 
the Zone of Beauty, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; purchased at 
the sale of the Marchioness of Thomond’s pictures, for 500^. 
—The Eake’s Progi'ess, by Ilogarih, a series of 8 pictures; 
purchased by Soane in 1802 for 598^.—1. The Eake comes to 
his Fortune; 2. The Eake as a Fine Gentleman; 3. The 
Eake in a Bagnio; 4. The Eake Arrested; 5. The Eake’s 
Marriage; 6. The Eake at the Gaming Table; 7. The Eake in 
Pi’ison; 8. The Eake in Bedlam.—The Election, by Hogarth, 
a series of four pictures; purchased by Soane, at Mrs. 
Garrick’s sale in 1823, for 1732^. 10s.—Admiral Tromp’s Barge 
entering the Texel, by J. M. W. Tui'ner, R.A .—Portrait of 
Napoleon in 1797, by Francesco Goma. —Miniature of Napoleon, 
painted at Elba in 1814, by Isahey. —In the Dining-room is a 
portrait of Soane, by Sir T. Lawrence ; and in the Gallery 
under the dome, a bust of him by Sir F. Chantrey. 

The EAST INDIAN MUSEUM, removed from the East 
India Company’s House, Leadenhall-street, is placed tempo¬ 
rarily in Fife-house, Whitehall-yard, once the residence of Lord 
Liverpool, prime minister. It is open to the public, Mon¬ 
day, Wednesday, and Friday, 10 to 4. It contains not only 
antiquities and historical relics, but also an assemblage of 
the chief natural productions of India, with specimens of the 
arts and manufactures, and illustrations of the industry, 
manners, and customs of the various races. In the Garden 
are placed some interesting sculptures from the Tope of 


XTX.—EAST INDIAN MUSEUM. 


181 


near the mouth of the Khistna, relating to Buddha 
and his worship, of elaborate execution. In the Entrance-hall 
are statues of Wellington (by Noble), Clive, Hastings, Coote, 
Wellesley, and others distinguished in India (by Flaxman). 
The Staircase is hung with pictures. In the Model Room 
are implements, tools, dwellings, machinery, a Kutcherrie, or 
Law Court. Among industrial products are paper made of 
different fibres and leaves, metal-work, jewelry, Trichinopoly 
chains and filigree-work, precious stones, silver armlets and 
bangles, lacquered ware. Next follow pottery, stone, and 
inlaid work. In a^rnis and armour the collection is rich and 
curious: the Ghoorkas’ knives, the Rajpoots’ swords, tbe 
Santals’ spears and shields, native artillery, ancient wall 
pieces on the plan of Colt’s revolver, camel-guns, cannon. 
Among textile fabrics are the shawls of Cashmere (of goats’ 
wool); muslins of Dacca; Kincob fabrics from Tanjore; 
embroideries and brocades in gold and silver thread. 

The arts of India are exhibited in carvings of ivory, (in¬ 
cluding mats and rugs made of cut fibres of elephants’ 
tusks) figures of ivory, costumes, chessmen of most elabo¬ 
rate workmanship, articles of buffalos’ and other horns. 
Carvings in wood. The golden chair of state of Runjeet 
Singh. A model of the Car of Juggernaut. Sculptured 
images of Hindoo Worship. Observe .—Large drawing of 
old East India House. Hindu idols in silver and gold, and 
stone. Pair of gauntlets made at Lahore, sometimes used 
by the native chiefs and horsemen in India (beautifully 
elaborate). The “ Tiger’s Claws ” of steel, made to be worn 
on the fingers and concealed within the closed hand, with 
which the Mahratta chief Sivagee tore to pieces his enemy 
Afzal Khan, in the act of embracing him. Sword of the 
executioner attached to the palace of the King of Candy 
(taken at the capture of Candy). Piece of wood of the ship 
“ Farquharson,” containing the horns of a fish called the 
monodon; the largest horn had penetrated through the 
copper sheathing and outside lining into one of the floor 
timbers. An emblematic organ (a tiger devouring a man), 
contrived for the amusement of Tippoo Sultan. Surya, the 
Sun, in his seven-horse car. Buddhist idols and relics. The 
state howdah of Durgan Sal, usurper of Bhurtpore. Baby¬ 
lonian inscription on stone, in cuneiform characters ! Budd¬ 
hist sculptures from Amravati on the Khistna. The upper 
rooms are occupied with a collection of the birds of India, 
properly classified. The kitchen is filled with stuffed beasts. 
The coins (a most valuable collection) can only be seen by 
special permission. 



182 


XIX.—UNITED SERVICE MUSEUM. 


Hoole, the translator of Tasso; Charles Lamb, author of 
Elia; and James Mill, the historian of British India; were clerks 
intheEast IndiaHouse. “Myprinted works,” said Lamb, “were 
my recreations—my true works may be found on the shelves 
in Leadenhall-street, filling some hundred folios.” This turns 
out to have been a fiction or a joke. The East Indian records 
show not the least trace of any Avork done by Charles Lamb. 
70,000 vols. of records were sold for waste paper, 1861. 

The Lihrary of the East India House has been transferred 
to Cannon-row west, and occupies part of the old Board of 
Control. It is both extensive and valuable, including 8000 
vols. of MSS. (3000 Sanscrit), formerly at Hailey bury; Warren 
Hastings’ copy of the Shah Hama; Tippoo Sultan’s Koran, his 
Autobiography, and interpretation of his OAvn dreams: 
Miniature Korans, Koran in Cufic characters, one taken 
to India by Tamerlane; seals and autograph of oriental 
sovereigns. 

UNITED SERVICE MUSEUM, Middle Scotland Yard, 
Whitehall. Founded 1830, as a central repository for 
objects of professional arts, science, natural history, books 
and documents relating to those objects, and for the deli¬ 
very of lectures on appropi'iate subjects. Admission^ by 
Members order, April to September, from 11 to 5; winter 
months, from 11 to 4. The Museum contains much that ■wall 
repay a -visit. Obsei've. —Basket-hilted cut-and-thrust sword, 
used by Oliver Cromwell at the siege of Drogheda (1649),— 
the blade bears the mai'ks of two musket-balls; sword Avorn 
by General Wolfe Avhen he fell at Quebec (1759); sash used 
in carrying Sir John Moore from the field, and loAA’’ering 
him into his grave on the rampai-ts at Comnna; model of 
battle of Trafalgar, sword, and other relics of Nelson; part 
of the deck of the Victory on which Nelson fell; rudder 
of the Royal George sunk at Spithead; skeleton of Marengo, 
the barb-horse which Napoleon rode at Waterloo. On the 
first fioor are Captain Siboi-ne’s elaborate and faithful model 
of the field and battle of Waterloo, containing 190,000 
metal figures; Col. Hamilton’s model of Sebastopol; the 
signal-book of the United States’ ship Chesapeake, captured 
by the Shannon; Captain Cook’s chronometer; Sir Francis 
Drake’s AA^alking-stick; Arctic relics of Sir John Franklin. 
The members are above 4000 in number. Entrance-fee, 1^.; 
annual subscription, lOs.; life subscription, 6/. 

MUSEUM OP PRACTICAL GEOLOGY, Nos. 28 to 32, 
•Jermyn Street (Director Sir Rodk. Impey Murchison, F.R.S., 


XIX.—THE missionaries' MUSEUM. 183 

P.R.Q.S., &c.), established 1835, in consequence of a repre¬ 
sentation to the Government by Sir Henry de la Beche, 
C.B. that the geological survey, then under the Ordnance, 
and in pro^'ess in Cornwall, possessed great opportunities 
of illustrating the application of geology to the useful 
purposes of life. The present handsome and well-contrived 
Museum (Mx\ Pennethorne, architect) was opened in 1851. 
The best use has been made of the space, and a building 
better fitted for its purposes could not have been devised. 
It cost 30,000^. The Museum is a School of Mines, similar, 
as far as circumstances permit, to the llcole des Mines and 
other institutions of the like kind on the Continent. The 
pupils receive instruction from competent professors on 
metallurgy, chemistry, natural history, applied mechanics, 
geology, mineralogy, and mining, having access to the labora¬ 
tories. Fee for students, SOL A very valuable collection 
of mining records has been formed. 

The collections illustrate the mineral products of every part 
of the United Kingdom and Colonies, including the marbles, 
porphyries, building-stones, &c., &c., with complete series of 
fossils, ores, and minerals. There are beautiful specimens 
of polished vases, statues, inlaid floors of mosaics, of native 
substances and manufacture. They comprise illustrations of 
the application of geology to the useful purposes of life; 
numerous models of mining works, mining machinery, metal¬ 
lurgical processes, and other operations, with needful maps, 
sections, and drawings, aiding a proper and comprehensive 
view of the general subject. Pottery and porcelain, a very 
good collection, historically arranged. The Lecture Theatre 
holds 450 persons, and evening lectures to working men, 
illustrative of the collections in the Museum, are delivered in 
it every season. 

The Museum is gratuitously open to public inspection 
every week-day, except Fridays. 

THE MISSIONARIES’ MUSEUM, Bloomfield Street, 
Moorfields, comprises a collection of objects of Natural 
History, and the original idols of the natives of the South 
Seas, prior to the introduction of Christianity : also other 
curiosities from the various regions to which the influence of 
the Missionary Society extends; the club with which 
Williams, the missionary, was slain. The Museum is open for 
public inspection, free, on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Satur¬ 
days, from 10 to 4, from March 25th to September 29th; the 
rest of the year from 10 to 3. 


184 


XX.—DRURY LANE THEATRE. 


XX.-THEATRES AND PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. 

HER MAJESTY’S THEATRE, or the Opera House, iu 
the Haymarket. This, the largest theatre in Europe, except 
that of La Scala at Milan, and the second theatre on the 
same site, was built (1790) from the design of Michael 
Novosielski, and altered and enlarged by Nash and Repton*^ 
in 1816-18. The first theatre on the site was built and 
established (1705) by Sir John Vanbrugh, and burnt down 
in 1789. Many of the double boxes on the ground tier have 
sold for as much as 7000Z. and 8000?.; a box on the pit tier 
has sold for 4000?. It was here that Jenny Lind sang. The 
Crush Room at the Opera, so called from its crowded cha¬ 
racter, adjoins the avenue leading to the pit. 

COVENT GARDEN THEATRE, or The Royal Italian 
Opera, on the west side of Bow-street, Covent-garden, is the 
third theatre on the same spot. The second of these was 
opened (1809) at “new prices:” hence the 0. P. (OldPrices) 
Row. In 1847, it was converted into an Italian Opera. 
This noble theatre (the finest in London) was destroyed, 
6th March, 1856, by accidental fire. The present building 
(E. M. Barry, architect) was finished in the space of 6 months, 
1858. It is nearly as capacious as the Scala Theatre in 
Milan, the largest in Europe. It will hold 2000 persons. 
Italian Operas are performed here in summer, commencing 
at 8 4 . The statues of Tragedy and Comedy, and the two 
bas-reliefs on the Bow-street front, are by Flaxmau. The 
Floral Hallf on the plan of the Crystal Palace, was built at 
the side of this Theatre, 1859, and opened 1861. 

DRURY LANE THEATRE (Mr. B. Wyatt, son of James 
Wyatt, architect), is the oldest existing theatre in London. 
The present edifice, the fourth on the same site, was erected 
and opened, 1812, with a prologue by Lord Byron. The 
portico towards Brydges-street was added during the lessee- 
ship of Elliston (1819-26), and the colonnade in Little 
Russell-street a few years after. Within the vestibule is a 
marble statue of Edmund Kean as Hamlet, by Carcw. It 
is like—but the attraction of Kean in Hamlet was the 
witchery of his voice. 


XX.—princess’s theatre. 185 

The HAYMARKET THEATRE (over against the Opera 
House in the Haymarket) was built by Nash, and publicly 
opened July 4th, 1821. It stands on a piece of ground 
immediately adjoining a former theatre of the same name. 
The lessee is Mr. Buckstone, the well-known actor. 

The ADELPHI THEATRE, over against Adam Street, in 
the Strand, was re-built (1858). The original edifice was a 
speculation of one Mr. John Scott, a colour-maker. The 
entertainments consisted of a mechanical and optical exhi¬ 
bition, with songs, recitations, and imitations ; and the 
talents of Miss Scott, the daughter of the proprietor, gave 
a profitable turn to the undertaking. The old front to¬ 
wards the Strand was a mere house-front. When ‘‘ Tom and 
Jerry,” by Pierce Egan, appeai’ed for the first time (Nov. 
26th, 1821), Wi'ench as “Tom,” and Reeve as “Jerry,” 
the little Adelphi, as it was then called, became a favourite 
mth the public. -Its fortunes varied under different manage¬ 
ments. Terry and Yates became (1825) the joint lessees 
and managers. Terry was backed by Sir Walter Scott and 
his friend Ballantyne, the printer, but Scott, in the sequel, 
had to pay for both Ballantyne and himself. Charles 
Mathews, in conjunction with Yates, leased the theatre, and 
gave here (1828-31) his series of inimitable “At Homes.” 
Here John Reeve drew large houses, and obtained his reputa¬ 
tion; and here Mr. Benjamin Webster (the present lessee), 
maintains the former character of the establishment. 

The ROYAL LYCEUM THEATRE, or Royal Italian 
Opera, is in the Strand, at the corner of Upper Wellington- 
street; it was built, 1834, by S. Beazley, architect (d. 1851). 
The interior decorations were made in Madame Vestris’s 
time (1847), and are very beautiful. The theatre derives its 
name from an academy or exhibition room, built 1765, for 
the Society of Arts, by Mr. James Payne, architect. It 
was first converted into a theatre in 1790, and into an 
English Opera House by Mr. Arnold in 1809. The preceding 
theatre (also the work of Mr. Beazley) was destroyed by fire, 
Feb. 16th, 1830. 

The PRINCESS’S THEATRE is in Oxford Street, 
nearly opposite the Pantheon. Built 1830 ; let to Mr. Maddox 
on lease at 2,600^. per annum, but underlet (1854) to Charles 
Kean at a greater rental,«and is one of the best theatres in 
London for the purposes of a manager and the interests of 


186 XX. — sadler’s wells—astley’s—Victoria. 


the public. The property is held under the Duke of Port- 
laud for a term of 60 years, from July, 1820, at a very low 
ground rent. 

SADLER’S WELLS THEATRE, long a well-known place 
of public amusement: first a music-house, and so called from 
a spring of mineral water, discovered by one Sadler, in 1683, 
in the garden of a house which he had opened as a public 
music-room, and called “ Sadler’s Music House.” Here Gri¬ 
maldi, the famous clown, achieved his greatest triumphs. 
This house, under the management of Mr. Phelps, acquired 
great celebrity for the admirable manner in which the plays 
of Shakspere and the Old Dramatists were placed on the 
stage. 

ASTLEY’S THEATRE, Westminster Bridge Road, 
originally an equestrian circus, the fourth building of the 
same nature on the same site. The first amphitheatre 
on this spot was a mere temporaiy erection of deal boards, 
built (1774) by Philip Astley, a light-horseman in the 15th 
or General Elliot’s regiment. It stood on what was then 
St. George’s Fields, through which the New Cut ran. 
Astley himself, said to have been the handsomest man in 
England, was the chief performer, assisted by a drum, two 
fifes, and a clown of the name of Porter. At first it was 
an open area. In 1780, it was converted into a covered 
amphitheatre, and divided into pit, boxes, and gallery. 
Astley’s amphitheatre has been thrice destroyed by fire—in 
1794, in 1803, and in 1841. 

“ Base Buonaparte, fill’d with deadly ire. 

Sets, one by one, our playhouses on fire. 

Some years ago he pounced with deadly glee on 
The Opera House, then burnt down the Pantheon; 

Thy hatch, O Halfpenny! pass’d in a trice, 

Boil’d some black pitch, and burnt down Astley’s twice.” 

Rejected Addresses, 

Mr. Ducrow, who had been one of Astley’s riders and became 
manager, died insane soon after the fire in 1841. Old Astley 
died in Paris, 1814. 

The VICTORIA THEATRE is in Waterloo Bridge 
Road, Lambeth. It was originally The Coburg, and called 
The Victoria for the first time soon after the accession of 
William IV., when her present Majesty was only heir pre¬ 
sumptive to the crown. The gallery at the “ Vic ” (for such 
is its brief cognomen about Lambeth) is one of the largest in 


XX.—EXETER HALL. 


187 


London. It will hold from 1500 to 2000 people, and runs 
back to so great a distance that the end of it is lost in shadow, 
excepting where the little gas-jets, against the wall, light up 
the two or three faces around them. When the gallery is 
w'ell packed, it is usual to see piles of boys on each other’s 
shoiilders at the back, while on the partition-boards, dividing 
off the slips, lads will perch themselves despite the spikes. 

The SURREY THEATRE, in Blackfriars Road, was 
built (1806 and 1866) on the site of former edifices destroyed 
by fire. Elliston leased it for a time. John Palmer, the 
actor (d. 1798), played here while a prisoner within the 
Rules of the King’s Bench. The large sums he received, and 
the way in which he squandered his money, is said to 
have suggested the clause in the then Debtors’ Act, which 
made all public-houses and places of amusement out of the 
Rules. This house is chiefly supported by the inhabitants of 
Southwark and Lambeth. 

The ST. JAMES’S THEATRE is a small neat edifice, on 
the south side of King Street, St. James’s, built by Beazley 
for Braham, the singer. During the summer it is often 
appropriated to the peiTormances of a French company of 
actors, and in the height of the London season is well 
frequented. The prices of admission vary every season. 

The OLYMPIC THEATRE, in Wych Street, near the 
Strand. This theatre, under the management of Madame 
Vestris, achieved a great success; and it was during her 
reign here that the present Charles Mathews was introduced 
to the stage under the auspices of the celebrated Liston. 

EXETER HALL, Strand. A large proprietary building 
on the N. side of the Strand, built (1831-50) from the de¬ 
signs of J. P. Deeriug. The Hall is 131 feet long, 76 feet 
wide {i. e. 8 feet wider than Westminster Hall), and 45 
feet high; and will contain more than 3000 persons. It 
is let for the annual “ May Meetings ” of the several re¬ 
ligious societies, and for the concerts of the Sacred Harmonic 
Society, in which the unrivalled music of Handel is at times 
performed, with a chorus of 700 voices accompanying it. 
Tickets at the music-sellers, and at the Hall. The stair¬ 
case and means of egress in this and .St. Martin’s Hall ai'e 
quite inadequate to the size of the buildings, and in the 
event of alarm of fire fatal consequences might ensue. 


188 


XX.—ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. 


ST. JAMES’S HALL, Piccadilly and Eegent’s Quadrant, 
contains a sumptuous Hall for public meetings, religious 
services, concerts, or dinners, 139 feet long and 60 feet 
high, designed and decorated by Owen Jones. The lighting, 
by means of pendant gas drops from the roof, is very elegant. 

A restaurant occupies the lower story of the building. 

ST. MARTIN’S HALL, Long Acre, originally built in 
1850 as a place for monthly concerts for Mr. Hullah, was 
burned down 1860. It has since been rebuilt, and is shortly 
to be opened as a theatre. 

WILLIS’S ROOMS, is a suite of Assembly and Dining¬ 
rooms in King Street, St. James’s, built (1765) by Robert 
Mylne, architect, and called Almack’s after the original, and 
“ Willis’s Rooms,” after the present proprietor. The balls 
called “ Almack’s,” for which these i-ooms are famous, were 
managed by a Committee of Ladies of high rank ; and, set 
apart most exclusively for the aristocracy, were canned on 
down to 1863, when the barrier began to be broken through 
by plebeian invasions, the prestige was lost, and they were 
given up. Almack kept the Thatched House Tavern, St. 
James’s-street, on the site of which stands the Conservative 
Club. The rooms are let for concerts, general meetings, 
public balls, and public and private dinner parties. The 
house is well managed, and the cuisine is very good. 

The ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, in Regent’s Park, be¬ 
long to the Zoological Society of London, instituted in 1826, 
for the advancement of Zoology, and the introduction and 
exhibition of the Animal Kingdom alive or properly pre¬ 
served. The principal founders were Sir Humphry Davy 
and Sir Stamford Raffles. Visitors are admitted to the Gardens 
of the Society without orders on Monday in every week, at 
Qd. each; on the following days at Is. each ; children at Qd. 
The Gardens are open from 9 in the morning till sunset. On 
Sundays they are open to Members only, and two friends 
introduced personally, or by special order. The rooms of 
the Society are at No. 11, Hanover-square. A member’s fee 
on admission is 51., and his annual subscription 3Z. These 
Gardens are among the best of our London sights, and 
should be seen by eveiy stranger in London. 'They con¬ 
tain the largest and most complete series of living animals 
in the world: amounting commonly to more than 500 
quadrupeds, and 1000 birds, and 100 reptiles. Many 
species have been first shown alive in these Gardens. The 
Monkey-house, in the form of a conservatory of iron and 


XXI.—ROYAL SOCIETY. 


189 


glass, and the Antelope and Zebra sheds, arc very popular; 
but the great attractions of the Gardens have been a pair 
of Hippopotami, presented by the Viceroy of Egypt, the 
first ever brought to this country, the Elephant Calf, the 
Apteryx from Hew Zealand; and the Vivarium, or Aqua¬ 
rium, of living fishes and other marine and freshwater 
animals, is a very interesting exhibition. The collection of 
living snakes is the largest ever formed in Europe. The 
band of the Life Guards is to be heard here in summer on 
Saturday Jit 4. The lions and tigers are fed at 4 p.m. The 
annual expenditure for Gardens and Museum amounts to 
18,000^.: the income exceeds 20,000Z.; in the Exhibition 
year 26,000^.; of this, about 5000^. is derived from sub¬ 
scribers, the rest admission fees. 

THE GERMAN GYMNASIUM, Old St. Pancras Road, 
King’s Cross. A spacious hall for the practice of Gymnastic 
Exercises, upon the system of the German Herr Jahn. It 
was built in 1866 by a company for the use of a private 
association. 


XXI.-LEARNED INSTITUTIONS. 

An edifice erected from designs of Messrs. Banks and 
Barry, in front of the old Burlington House, well occupies 
the site of the dead wall which extended along one side of 
Piccadilly, to accommodate the Royal, Linnasan, Geological, 
Geographical, Antiquarian, Astronomical, and Chemical 
Societies. 

The ROYAL SOCIETY, in Borltngton House, Picca¬ 
dilly, was incorporated by royal charter, 1663, Charles II. 
and the Duke of York entering their names as members. 
Like the Society of Antiquaries, and many other institutions, 
this celebrated Society (boasting of the names of Newton, 
Wren, Halley, Herschel, Davy, and Watt, among its members) 
originated in a small attendance of men engaged in the same 
pursuits, and in weekly meetings held in London, 1645. 
The merit of suggesting such meetings is assigned by Wallis 
to Theodore Haak, a German of the Palatinate, then resi¬ 
dent in London. The Civil War interrupted their pursuits 
for a time; but with the Restoration a fresh aecession of 
strength was obtained, new members enlisted, and the 
charter of incorporation granted. The Society consists 
at present of about 766 ‘^Fellows,” and the letters F.R.S. 
are generally appended to the name of a member. The 
present entrance money is 10^. and the annual subscription 



190 


XXI.—ROYAL ACADEMY. 


4Z.; members are elected by ballot, upon tlie nomination 
of six or more fellows. The patron saint of the Society 
is St. Andrew, and the anniversary meeting is held every 
30th of November, being St. Andrew’s Day. The Society 
possesses some interesting portraits. Observe. —Three por¬ 
traits of Sir Isaac Newton—one by C. Jervas^ presented by 
Newton himself, and properly suspended over the President’s 
chair—a second in the Library, by D. C. Marcliand —and a 
third in the Assistant Secretary’s Office, by Vanderhanh; 
two portraits of Halley, by Thomas Mun'ay and Dahl; two 
of Hobbes—one taken in 1663 by, says Aubi'e, “a good 
hand”—and the other by Oaspars, presented by Aubrey ; 
Sii* Christopher Wren, by Kneller; Wallis, by Soest; Flam- 
stead, by Gibson; Robert Boyle, by F. Kerseboom, (Evelyn 
says it is like); Pepys, by Kneller, presented by Pepys; 
Lord Somers, by Kneller ; Sir R. Southwell, by Kneller ; Sir 
H. Spelman, the antiquary, by Mytens (how it came here I 
know not); Sir Hans Sloane, by Kneller ; Dr. Birch, by Wills, 
the original of the mezzotint done by Faber in 1741, be¬ 
queathed by Birch; Martin Folkes, by Hogarth] Dr. Wollas¬ 
ton, by Jackson ; Sir Humphry Davy, by Sir T, Lawrence. 
Observe also .—The mace of silver gilt (similar to the maces 
of the Lord Chancellor, the Speaker, and President of the 
College of Physicians), presented to the Society by Charles II. 
in 1662. The belief so long entertained that it was the 
mace or “ bauble,” as Cromwell called it, of the Long Parlia¬ 
ment, has been completely refuted by the original waiTant 
of the year 1662, for the special making of this very mace. 
—A solar dial, made by Sir Isaac Newton when a boy; a 
reflecting telescope, made in 1671, by Newton’s own hands ; 
MS. of the Pi’incipia, in Newton’s own hand-writing; lock 
of Newton’s hair, silver white; MS. of the Parentalia, by 
young Wren; Charter Book of the Society, bound in 
crimson velvet, containing the signatures of the Founder 
and Fellows; a Rumford fire-place, one of the first set 
I up; original model of Sir Humphry Davy’s Safety Lamp, 
I made by his own hands; marble bust of Mrs. Somerville, by 
Chantrey. The Society possesses a Donation Fund, esta¬ 
blished to aid men of science in their researches, and distributes 
four medals : a Rumford gold medal, two Royal medals, and 
a Copley gold medal, called by Davy “the ancient olive 
crown of the Royal Society.” The Society removed from 
Somerset House to Burlington House in 1856. 

ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS, Trafalgar Square, 
under the same roof as the National Gallery, constituted 


XXI.—ROYAL ACADEMY. 


191 


1768. Its principal objects are—1. The establishment of 
a well-regulated “School, or Academy of Design,” for the 
gratuitous instruction of students in the art; and, 2. An 
“ annual exhibition,” open to all artists of distinguished 
merit, where they may offer their performances to public 
inspection, and acquire that degree of reputation and en¬ 
couragement which they may be deemed to deserve. It 
is “a private society, supporting a school that is open to 
the public.” The members are under the superintendence 
and control of the Queen only, who confirms all appoint¬ 
ments ; and the society itself consists of 42 Royal Acade¬ 
micians (including a Pi’esident), at least 20 Associates, and 
6 Associate Engravers. The Royal Academy derives the 
whole of its funds from the produce of its annual exhibition, 
to which the price of admission is Is., and the catalogue Is. 
The average annual receipts are about QOOOl. 

The annual Exhibition of Pictures by Living Artists opens 
the first Monday in May, and works intended for exhibition 
must be sent in a month before. No works which have 
been already exhibited ; no copies of any kind (excepting 
paintings on enamel); no mere transcripts of the objects of 
natural history; no vignette portraits, nor any drawings 
without backgrounds (excepting architectural designs), can 
be received. No artist is allowed to exhibit more than 
8 different works. Honorary exhibitors (or unprofessional 
artists) are limited to one. All works sent for exhi¬ 
bition are submitted to the approval or rejection of the 
council, whose decision is final, and may be ascertained by 
application at the Academy in the week after they have been 
left there. 

Admission of Students. —Any person desiring to become 
a student of the Royal Academy presents a drawing or 
model of his own performance to the keeper, which, if con¬ 
sidered by him a proof of sufficient ability, is laid before the 
Council, together with a testimony of his moral character, 
from an Academician, or other known person of respectability. 
If these ai’e approved by the Council, the candidate is per¬ 
mitted to make a drawing or model from one of the antique 
figures in the Academy, and the space of three months from 
the time of receiving such permission is allowed for that 
purpose ; the time of his attendance is from 10 o’clock in the 
morning until 3 in the afternoon. This drawing or model, 
when finished, is laid before the Council, accompanied with 
outline drawings of an anatomical figure and skeleton, not less 
than two feet high, with lists and references, on each drawing, 


192 


XXI.—ROYAL ACADEMY. 


of the several muscles, tendons, and bones contained therein, 
together with the drawing or model originally presented for 
his admission as a probationer: if approved, the candidate is 
accepted as a student of the Eoyal Academy, and receives in 
form the ticket of his admission from the hand of the keeper 
in the Antique School. If the specimen presented be rejected 
by the Council, he is not allowed to continue drawing in the 
Academy. The rule for architectural students is of a like 
character. 

The first president was Sir Joshua Reynolds—the present 
president is Sir Francis Grant. The election of Associates 
takes place in January, of Academicians in June and De¬ 
cember ; and the 10th of December is the day for the annual 
distribution of prizes. The Royal Academy possesses a fine 
library of books and prints, open to the students, and a 
large collection of casts from the antique, and several 
interesting pictures by old masters. Each member on his 
election presents a picture, or a work of art, of his own 
design and execution, to the collection of the Academy, 
'rhe series thus obtained, so interesting in the history of 
British art, placed in a gallery at the top of the house, con¬ 
tains Portraits of Sir William Chambers, the architect, of 
George III., and of Reynolds in his Doctor’s Robes, by 
Reynolds (all very fine); Boys digging for a rat, by Sir 
David Wilkie. Other Works of Art. —1. Cartoon of the Holy 
Family, in black chalk, by L. Da Vinci; executed with 
extreme care, the Holy Virgin is represented on the lap 
of St. Anne, her mother; she bends down tenderly to the 
infant Christ, who plays with a lamb. 2. Bas-relief, in 
marble, of the Holy Vami\y,\iy Michael Angelo ; presented 
by Sir George Beaumont. St. John is presenting a dove 
to the child Jesus, who shrinks from it and shelters 
himself in the arms of his mother, who seems gently re¬ 
proving St. John for his hastiness, and putting him back 
with her hand. The child is finished and the mother in 
great part: the St. John is only sketched, but in a most 
masterly style. 3. Copy, in oil, of Da Vinci’s Last Supper 
(size of the original), by Marco cVOggione, perhaps represents 
more exactly Leonardo’s grand design than the original 
itself in its present mutilated state at Milan. This was 
formerly in the Certosa at Pavia. 4. A very fine Giorgione, 
a fresco by Paul Veronea. 5. Marble bust of Wilton, the 
sculptor, by Roubiliac. Admission to view these pictures, 
&c., is obtained by a written application to the keeper. 

The Royal Academy is about to remove from Trafalgar- 
square to Bui'lington House, Piccadilly, which has been 


XXI.—llOYAL COLLEGE OE PHYSICIANS. 


193 


arranged for the purpose, while a Gallery for Exhibitions 
has been built iu the rear ; the entrance for the public 
being through the old house from Piccadilly. An upper 
Btoi’y has been added to the original building. Here will be 
a Gallery for the exhibition of the works of Gibson the 
sculptor, bequeathed by him to the R. A. George HI. gave 
room to the R. A. on its foundation, 1780, in his Palace of 
Somerset House, which they quitted, 1834. 

ROYAL ACADEMY OF MUSIC, 4, Tenterden Street, 
Hanover Square. Founded (1822) by the late Earl of 
"Westmoreland, who confided its organisation and general 
direction to Bochsa, the composer and harpist, at that time 
director to the Italian Opera in London. This is an academy, 
with in-door and out-door Students, the in-door paying 60 
guineas a-year and 10 guineas entrance fee ; and the out-door, 
30 guineas a-year and 5 guineas enti’ance fee. Some previous 
knowledge is required, and the students must provide them¬ 
selves with the instruments they propose or are appointed 
to learn. There is a large Musical Library. Four scholar¬ 
ships, called Kmg’s Scholarships, have been founded by the 
Academy, two of which, one male and one female, are con¬ 
tended for annually at Christmas. 

ROYAL COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS, in Pall Mall 
East, corner of Trafalgar Square, was built by Sir R. Smirke, 
for 30,000?., and opened (25th June, 1825) with a Latin oration 
by Sir Henry Halford. The College was founded by Linacre, 
physician to Henry VIII. The members, at its first institu¬ 
tion, met in the founder’s house in Knightrider-street on the 
site of No. 6, still (by Linacre’s bequest) in the possession of 
the College. From the founder’s house they moved to 
Amen-coi’ner (where Harvey read his lectures on the discovery 
of the circulation of the blood); from thence (1674), after 
the Great Fire, to Warwick-lane (where Wren built them a 
college, pulled down 1866), and from Warwick-lane to the 
present College. Observe .—In the gallery above the library 
seven preparations by Harvey, discoverer of the circulation 
of the blood, and a very large number by Dr. Matthew 
Baillie.—The engraved portrait of Harvey, by Jansen ; head 
of Sir Thomas Browne, author of “ Religio Medici; ” Sir 
Theodore Mayerne, physician to James I.; Sir Edmund King, 
the physician who bled Kdng Charles II. in a fit, on his o^on 
responsibility; head of Dr. Sydenham, by Mai'y Beale; Dr. 
Radcliffe, by Kneller; Sir Hans Sloane, by Richardson; Sir 
Samuel Garth, by Kneller; Dr. Freind; Dr. Mead; Dr. 
Warren, by Qainsborough ; William Hunter; Dr. Heberden. 


194 


XXI.—HERALDS’ COLLEGE. 


Busts. —George IV., by Chantrey (one of his finest); Dr. 
Mead, by Roubiliac; Dr. Sydenham, by Wilton (from the 
picture); Harvey, by ScheemaJcers (from the picture); Dr. 
Baillie, by Chantrey (from a model by Nollekens); Dr. 
Babington, by Behnes. — Dr. RadclifFe’s gold-headed cane, 
successively carried by Drs. RadclilFe, Mead, Askew, Pitcaii’n, 
and Matthew Baillie (presented to the College by Mrs. 
Baillie); and a clever little picture, by Zoffany, of Hunter 
delivering a lecture on anatomy before the members of the 
Royal Academy—all portraits. Mode of Admission. —Order 
from a fellow. Almost eveiy physician of eminence in 
London is a fellow. 

ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, Lincoln’s Inn 
Fields. See Permanent Free Exhibitions. 

THE HERALDS’ COLLEGE, or College of Arms, is in 
Doctors’ Commons. The apartments of Garter King at Arms, 
at the N.E. corner, were built at the expense of Sir William 
Dugdale, Garter in the reign of Charles II. Here is the Earl 
Marshal’s Office, once an important court, but now of little con¬ 
sequence. It was sometime called the Court of Honour, and 
took cognisance of words supposed to reflect upon the nobility. 
The appointment of Heralds is in the gift of the Duke of 
Norfolk, as hereditary Earl Marshal. The College consists of 
3 Kings—Garter, Clarencieux, and Norroy; of 6 Heralds— 
Lancaster, Somei’set, Richmond, Windsor, York, and Chester; 
and of 4 Pursuivants—Rouge Croix, Blue Mantle, Portcullis, 
and Rouge Dragon. The several appointments are in the 
gift of the Duke of Norfolk, as hereditary Earl Marshal. 
Ceebrated Oncers of the College. —William Camden, Claren¬ 
cieux ; Sir William Dugdale, Garter ; Elias Ashmole, founder 
of the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford, Windsor Herald; 
Francis Sandford, author of the Genealogical History of 
Lancaster HcD'ald ; John Anstis, Garter; Sir John 
Vanbrugh, the poet, Clarencieux; Francis Grose, author of 
Grose’s Antiquities, Richmond Herald ; William Oldys, Norroy 
King at Arms; Lodge (“Lodge’s Portraits”), Clarencieux. 
Two escutcheons, one beai'ing the arms (and legs) of the Isle 
of Man, and the other the eagle’s claw, ensigns of the house 
of Stanley, still to be seen on the S. side of the quadrangle, 
denote the site of old Derby House, in which the Heralds were 
located before the Great Fire of London. Obsei've. —Sword, 
dagger, and turquoise ring, belonging to James IV. of Scotland, 
who fell at Flodden-field, presented to the college by the 
Duke of Norfolk, temp. Charles II. 


XXI.—SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES. 


195 


“They pi'oduce a bettei’ evidence of James’s death than the iron-helt 
—the monarch’s sword and dagger, which are still preserved in the 
Heralds’ College in London.”— Sir Walter Scott {Note to Marmion). 

Portrait of Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury (the great warrior), 
from his tomb in old St. Paul’s. Poll of Arms (temp. Henry 
III.), copied 1586 by Glover {Somerset Herald), and said to be 
the earliest record we possess relative to English Heraldry. 
The arms are blazoned or described in words, not pictured. 
Roll of the Tournament holden at Westminster, in honour 
of Queen Katherine, upon the birth of Prince Henry (1510): 
a most curious roll, engraved in the Monumenta Vetusta, 
Vol. I.—The Rous or Warwick roll: a series of figures of all 
the Earls of Warwick, from the Conquest to the reign of 
Richard III., executed by Rous, the antiquary of Warwick, 
at the close of the fifteenth century.—Pedigree of the Saxon 
Kings, from Adam, illustrated with many beautiful drawings in 
pen-and-ink (temp. Henry VIII.) of the Creation, Adam 
and Eve in Paradise, the Building of Babel, Rebuilding of the 
Temple, &c.—MSS., consisting chiefly of Herald’s visitations; 
records of grants of arms and royal licences; records of 
modern pedigrees (i. e. since the discontinuance of the visita¬ 
tions in 1687); a most valuable collection of official funeral 
certificates; a portion of the Arundel MSS.; the Shrewsbury 
or Cecil papers, from which Lodge derived his Illustrations 
of British History; notes, &c., made by Glover, Vincent, 
Philipot, and Dugdale ; a volume in the handwriting of the 
venerable Camden; the collections of Sir Edward Walker, 
Secretary at War (temp. Charles I.). 

SOCIETY OF ANTIQUARIES has apartments in Somer¬ 
set House, first door on your left as you enter the vestibule. 
The Society w'as founded in 1707, by Wanley, Bagford, and 
a Mr. Talman. George II., in 1751, granted them a charter; 
and in 1777, George III. gave them the apartments they still 
occupy. The terms at present are, 5 guineas admission, and 
2 guineas annually. Members ai’e elected by ballot on the 
recommendation of at least three Fellows. The letters F.S. A. 
are generally appended to the names of members. Their 
Transactions, called the Archseologia, commence in 1770. 
Days of meeting, every Thursday at 8, from November to 
June. Anniversary meeting, April 23rd. The Society pos¬ 
sesses a Library and Museum. Observe. —Household Book 
of Jocky of Norfolk.—A large and interesting Collection of 
Early Proclamations, interspersed with Early Ballads, many 
unique.—T. Porter’s Map of London (temp. Cliarles I.), once 
thought to be unique.—A folding Picture on Panel of the 


196 XXL —ROYAL INSTITUTION OF GREAT BRITAIN. 


Preaching at Old St. Paul’s in 1616.—Early Portraits of 
Edward IV. Marchioness of York, his sister, and Richard III. 
—Of Mary I., with the monogram of Lttcas de Ileere, and the 
date 1554.—Portrait of Marquis of Winchester (d. 1571).— 
Portrait by Sir Antonio More of his master John Schoreel, 
the Flemish pamter. — Of General Fleetwood. — Portraits 
of Antiquaries : Bui’ton, the Leicestershire antiquary; Peter 
le Neve; Humphrey Wanley; Baker, of St. John’s College ; 
William Stukeley; George Vertue; Edward, Earl of 
Oxford, presented by Vertue.—A Bohemian Astronomical 
Clock of Gilt Brass, made by Jacob Zech in 1525, for 
Sigismund, King of Poland, and bought at the sale of the 
effects of James Ferguson, the astronomer.—Spur of Brass 
Gilt, found on Towton Field, the scene of the conflict 
between Edward IV. and the Lancastrian Forces. Upon the 
shanks is engraved the following posy ;—lOiaX amobr 
tout mOU CDCr.” For admission to the Museum apply by 
letter to the Secretary. 

INSTITUTION OF CIVIL ENGINEERS, 25, Great 
George Street, Westminster. Established 1818; incor¬ 
porated 1828. The Institution consists of Members resident 
in London, paying 4 guineas annually, and Members not 
resident, 3 guineas annually; of Associates resident in London, 
paying 3 guineas annually, and Associates not resident, 2^ 
guineas; of Graduates resident in London, paying 2^ guineas 
annually, and Graduates not resident, 2 guineas; and of 
Honorary Members. The ordinary General Meetings are 
held every Tuesday at 8 p.m., from the second Tuesday in 
January to the end of June. The first president was Thomas 
Telford (1820-34); the second, James Walker (1835-45) ,* the 
third. Sir John Rennie; and the present one, J. M. Rendle, 
Esq. Observe. —Portrait of Thomas Telford, engineer of the 
Menai Bridge, and President of the Institution for 14 years. 

ROYAL INSTITUTE OF BRITISH ARCHITECTS, 16, 
Lower Grosvenor Street, Grosvenor Square. Founded 
1834, for the advancement of architecture, and incorporated 
1837. There are three classes of Members :—1. Fellows: ai'chi- 
tects engaged as principals for at least seven years in the 
practice of civil architecture. 2. Associates : persons engaged 
in the study of civil architecture, or in practice less than seven 
years, and who have attained the age of 21. 3. Honoraiy 
Fellows. The Meetings are held every alternate Monday at 
8 P.M., from the first Monday in November till the end of 
June inclusive. Associate’s admission fee, 1 guinea ; Fellow’s 


XXI.—ROYAL SOCIETY OF LITERATURE. 197 


admission fee, 5 guineas. There is a good libraiy of books 
on architecture. 

THE ARCHITECTURAL MUSEUM is in Eowlikq 
Street, Westminster. 

ROYAL INSTITUTION OF GREAT BRITAIN, a 
Library, Reading, and Lecture Room, 21, Albemarle 
Street, Piccadilly. Established 1799, at a meeting held 
at the house of Sir Joseph Banks, for diffusing the knowledge 
and facilitating the general introduction of useful mechanical 
inventions and improvements, &c. Count Rumford was its 
earliest promoter. The front—a row of Corinthian columns 
half-engaged—was designed by Mr. Vulliamy, architect, from 
the Custom House at Rome; and what before was little better 
than a perforated brick-wall, was thus converted into an 
ornamental fa 9 ade. Here is an excellent library of general 
reference, and a good reading room, with weekly courses 
of lectures, throughout the season, on Chemical Science, 
Philosophy, Physiology, Literature, Art, &c. Members (can¬ 
didates to be proposed by four members) are elected by 
ballot, and a majority of two-thirds is necessary for election. 
The admission fee is 5 guineas, and the annual subscription 
5 guineas. Subscribers to the Theatre Lectures only, or to 
the Laboratory Lectures only, pay 2 guineas; subscribers 
to both pay 3 guineas for the season ; subscribers to a single 
course of the Theatre Lectures pay 1 guinea. A syllabus 
of each course maj’’ be obtained of the Secretary at the 
Institution. The Friday Evening Meetings (84 to IO 4 p.m.), 
at which some eminent pei’son is invited to deliver a 
popular lecture on some subject connected with science, 
art, or literatui’e, are well attended. Non-subscribers may 
be admitted to them by a ticket signed by a member. In 
the ^Laboratory, Davy made his great discoveries on the 
metallic bases of the earths, aided by the large galvanic 
apparatus of the establishment. Hence sprung also Fara¬ 
day’s remarkable researches. 

SOCIETY OF ARTS, in John Street, Adelphi, is an old 
society, trying to regain strength and to accomplish greater 
good than it seems likely to effect. Many of the directors 
were intimately connected with the Great International Ex¬ 
hibitions, in 1851 and 1862. Here are temporary exhibitions 
of manufactures, and six pictures by James Barry, painted 
1777-83, and creditable to the then state of art in England. 

ROYAL SOCIETY OF LITERATURE, 4, St. Martin’s 
Place, Ciiarijig Cross. Founded in 1823, “ for the advance- 


198 


XXI.—ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY. 


ment of literature,” and incorporated 1826. George IV. gave 
1100 guineas a-year to this Society, which has the merit of 
rescuing the last years of Coleridge’s life from complete 
dependence on a friend, and of placing the learned Dr. 
Jamieson above the wants and necessities of a man fast sink¬ 
ing to the grave. The annual grant of 1100 guineas was dis¬ 
continued by William IV., and the Society has since sunk into 
a Transaction Society, with a small but increasing library. 

LONDON INSTITUTION, Finsbury Circus, Moor- 
FiELDS. A proprietary institution, established in 1806, 
in Sir William Clayton’s house, Old Jewry. The first 
stone of the present edifice was laid May 4, 1815, and the 
building (which is handsome and very suitable to its pur¬ 
pose) was opened 1819. Architect, W. Brooks, who also 
built Finsbury Chapel, &c. The library, consisting of up¬ 
wards of 60,000 volumes, is particularly rich in topogra¬ 
phical works. The collector and antiquary, William Upcott, 
was one of its librarians. 

GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, Somerset 
House. Established 1807. The Museum of geological speci¬ 
mens, fossils, &c., not only British, but from all quarters of 
the globe, is extensive, though not perfectly arranged. It 
may be seen by the introduction of a member. The museum 
and library are open every day from 11 till 5. The number 
of Fellows is about 875. They meet for perusal of papers 
and for scientific discussions, at half-past 8 o’clock in the 
evening of alternate Wednesdays, from November to June 
inclusive. The Society publishes its Transactions, which 
now adopt the form of a quarterly journal. Entrance money, 

6 guineas; annual subscription, 3 guineas. 

ROYAL GEOGR.4PHICAL SOCIETY, 15, WhiteiI^vll- 
Peace, established 1830, for the impi’ovement and diffusion 
of geographical knowledge. Elections by ballot. Entrance 
fee, 3Z.; annual subscription, 21. There is a good geogra¬ 
phical library, and large collection of maps. Meetings where 
papers on geographical discoveries are read—every other Mon¬ 
day, from November to July, at 8 p.m, in Burlington House. 

ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY, 5, New Burlington Street, 
(founded 1823,) contains an interesting collection of Oriental 
arms and armour. Ohsei've .—The Malay spears mounted 
with gold; the pair of Ceylonese jingals, or grasshoppers, 
mounted with silver, taken in the Khandyan war of 1815 ; a 
complete suit of Persian armour, inlaid with gold; a Bengal 


XXIT.—COLLEGES AND SCHOOLS. 


199 


sabre, termed a kliarg; Ceylonese hog-spears, and Lahore 
arrows; a sculptured column of great beauty, from the 
gateway of a temple in Mahore ; and statues of Durga, Surga, 
and Buddha, that deserve attention. The Society usually 
meets on the first and third Saturdays in eveiy month, from 
November to June inclusive. Admission fee, 5 guineas; 
annual subscription, 3 guineas. 

ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, South Ken- 
sington, Exhibition Road, and opposite to the South 
Kensington Museum, has here an Ornamental and Experi¬ 
mental Garden, laid out at a cost of 70,000^., including a 
Hall, where meetings and flower exhibitions are held. On 
the N. rises a great Winter Garden and other conservatories, 
elegant parterres varied with shrubberies, and single trees 
transplanted from a distance. The whole is surrounded by 
a colonnade and cloister of good architectural design; finished, 
1861, at the cost of the Government, who agreed to expend 
on it 50,000^. The grounds were laid out by Nesfield; the 
buildings designed by Digby Wyatt. Their extent is 22 
acres, forming part of the Kensington Gore estate, purchased 
out of the surplus fund arising from the Gi’eat Exhibition 
of 1851. The Society retains an Experimental Garden at 
Chiswick. Each Fellow can introduce personally two friends 
to the Garden at S. Kensington, except on Exhibition 
Days. Open daily 9 to dusk. Sundays from 2 p.m. 

The Linncean Society (Museum), Burlington House; Royal 
Astronomical Society, in Somerset House; the Statistical 
Society, 12, St. James’s Square; and Ethnological Society. 
There are also Societies for printing books connected with 
particular subjects, such as the Camden, Hakluyt, and 
The Arundel, Old Bond Street, for engraving the works of 
early Italian and German masters. 

At No. 12, St. James’s Square, is the admirably managed 
London Library, a public subscription cii’culating library, 
of valuable standard works, possessing 60,000 volumes— 
entrance fee, 6^.; annual subscription, 21. There is a printed 
catalogue of the library. 


XXII.-COLLEGES AND SCHOOLS. 

UNIVERSITY OF LONDON, Burlington Gardens, 
between Bond Street and Regent Street, is a government 
institution, or Board of Examiners, established 1837, for con- 



200 XXII.—UNIVERSITY COLLEGE—FLAXMAN MUSEUM. 


ferring degrees, after careful examinations, on the gi-aduates 
of University College, London ; King’s College, London ; 
Stepney College, Highbury College, Homerton College, See.; 
in other words, ^‘for the advancement of religion and mo¬ 
rality, and the promotion of useful knowledge without dis¬ 
tinction of rank, sect, or party.” There are several scholarships 
attached, each with 50Z. a year. The salaiy of the Registrar 
and Treasurer is 500Z. a year. The institute has nothing to 
do with the business of education, being constituted for the 
sole purpose of ascertaining the proficiency of candidates for 
academical distinctions. The examinations are half-yearly. 

UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, London, on the east side of 
Upper Gower Street. A proprietary institution, “ for the 
general advancement of literature and science, by affording 
to young men adequate opportunities for obtaining literary 
and scientific education at a moderate expense;” founded 
(1828) by the exertions of Lord Brougham, Thomas Campbell, 
the poet, and others, and built from the designs of W. 
Wilkins, R.A., architect of the National Gallery and of St. 
George’s Hospital at Hyde-Park-corner. Graduates of the 
University of London from University College are entitled 
Doctors of Laws, Masters of Arts, Bachelors of Law, Bachelors 
of Medicine, and Bachelors of Art. Everything is taught in 
the College but divinity. The school of medicine is de¬ 
servedly distinguished. The Junior School, under the 
government of the Council of the College, is entered by a 
separate entrance in Upper Gower-street. The hom'S of 
attendance are from a quarter past 9 to three-quarters 
past 3; in which time one hour and a quai'ter is allowed 
for recreation. The yearly payment for each pupil is 18^. 
The subjects taught are rea^ng, writing; the English, 
Latin, Greek, French, and German languages; Ancient and 
English history; geogi’aphy; arithmetic and book-keeping, 
the elements of mathematics and of natural philosophy. 
The discipline of the school is maintained without corporal 
punishment. Several of the professors, and some of the 
masters of the Junior School receive students to reside with 
them ; and in the office of the College there is kept a register 
of parties unconnected with the College who receive 
boarders into their families: among these are several medical 
• gentlemen. The Registrar will afford information as to terms, 
and other particulars. 

Tlie Flaxman Museum .—In the hall under the cupola of 
the College the original models are preserved of the prin¬ 
cipal works, monuments, bas-reliefs, statues, &c., of John 


xxii.—ST. Paul’s school. 


201 


Flaxman, R.A., the greatest of our English sculptors. The 
Pastoral Apollo, the St. Michael, and some of the bas-reliefs, 
are amazingly fine. The clever portrait statue in marble of 
Flaxnian, by the late M. L. Watson, purchased by public sub¬ 
scription, is placed on the stairs as you enter the Flaxman 
Gallery. A fine collection of Flaxman’s original drawings is 
well displayed. The whole deserves the attention of every 
lover of art. In the cloister below is another fine work of art, 
in mai'ble niello, the outline coloured, of subjects from Homer. 
The artist is Baron de TnqiLeti, of Paris. Mr. Grote, the 
historian, presented this Marmor Romericum to the college. 

KING’S COLLEGE AND SCHOOL. A proprietary in¬ 
stitution, occupying the east wing of Somerset House, which 
w’as built up to receive it, having been before left incomplete. 
The College was founded in 1828, upon the following funda¬ 
mental principle :—“ That every system of general education 
for the youth of a Christian community ought to comprise 
instruction in the Christian religion as an indispensable part, 
without which the acquisition of other branches of knowledge 
will be conducive neither to the happiness of the individual 
nor the welfare of the state.” The general education of the 
College is carried on in five departments:—1, Theological. 
Department; 2. Department of General Literature and 

Science; 3. Department of the Applied Sciences ; 4. Medical 
Department; 5. The School, Every person wisliing to place 
a pupil in the school must produce, to the head-master, a cer¬ 
tificate of good conduct, signed by his last instructor. The 
general age for admission is from 9 to 16 years of age. 
Rooms are provided within the walls of the College for the 
residence of a limited number of matriculated students. 
Each proprietor has the privilege of nominating two pupils 
to the School, or one to the School and one to the College at 
the same time. The Museum contains the Calculating 
Machine of Mr. Babbage, deposited by the Commissioners of 
the Woods and Forests; and the collection of Mechanical 
Models and Philosophical Instruments formed by George III., 
presented by Queen Victoria. 

ST. PAUL’S SCHOOL. A celebrated school in St. Paul’s 
Churchyard (on the east side), founded in 1512, for 153 poor 
men’s children, by Dr, John Colet, Dean of St. Paul’s, the 
friend of Erasmus, and son of Sir Henry Colct, mercer, and 
Mayor of London in 1486 and 1495. The boys were to be 
taught, free of expense, by a master, sur-master, and chaplain, 
and the oversight of the school was committed by the 
founder to the Mercers’ Company. The number (153) was 


202 


XXII.—WESTMINSTER SCHOOL. 


chosen in allusion to the number of fishes taken by St. Peter. 
The school was dedicated by Colet to the Child Jesus, but 
the saint, as Strype remarks, has robbed his master of his 
title. The lands left by Colet to suppoi-t his school were 
estimated, in 1598, at the yearly value of about 120^. Their 
present value is upwards of 5000^. The education is entirely 
classical, and the presentations to the school are in the gift 
of the Master of the Mercers’ Company for the time being. 
Scholars are admitted at the age of 15, but at present none 
are eligible to an exhibition if entered after 12 ; and none 
are expected to remain in the school after their nineteenth 
birthday, though no time for superannuation is fixed by the 
statutes. The head-master’s salary is 618Z. per annum; the 
sur-master’s, 307^.; the under-master’s, 2721.; and the 
assistant-master’s, 257^. Lilly, the grammarian, and friend 
of Erasmus, was the first master, and the gi'ammar which he 
compiled, is still used. Eminent Scholars .—John Leland, 
our earliest English antiquary ; John Milton, the great 
epic poet of our nation; the great Duke of TVLarlborough ; 
Nelson, author of Fasts and Festivals; Edmund Halley, 
the astronomer; Samuel Pepys, the diarist; John Strype, 
the ecclesiastical historian j-'IC^rd Chancellor Ti’uro and Sir 
Frederick Pollock, Chief Baron. The present school was built 
in 1823, from a design by Mr. George Smith, and is the third 
building erected on the same site. Colet’s school was de¬ 
stroyed in the Great Fire, “ but built up again,” says Strype, 
‘'much after the same manner and proportion it was before.” 

WESTMINSTER SCHOOL, or St. Peter’s College, Dean’s 
Yard, Westminster, founded as “a publique schoole for 
Grammar, Rethoricke, Poetrie, and for the Latin and Greek 
languages,” by Queen Elizabeth, 1560, and attached to the 
collegiate church of St. Peter at Westminster. The College 
consists of a dean, 12 prebendaries, 12 almsmen, and 40 
scholars ; with a master and an usher. This is the founda¬ 
tion, but the school consists of a larger number of masters, 
and of a much larger number of boys. The 40 are called 
Queen’s scholars, and after an examination, which takes 
place on the first Tuesday after Rogation Sunday, 4 are 
elected to Trinity College, Cambridge, and 4 to Christ Church, 
Oxford. A parent wishing to place a boy at this school will 
get every necessaiy information from the head master; boys 
are not placed on the foundation under 12 or above 13 years 
of age. Eminent Masters. —Camden, the antiquary; Dr. 
Busby; Vincent Bourne; Jordan (Cowley has a copy of 
verses on his death). Eminent Men educated at, — Poets: Ben 


XXII.—CHARTER HOUSE. 


203 


Jonson; George Herbert; Giles Fletcher; Jasper Mayue; 
AVilliam Cartwright; Cowley, who published a volume of 
poems while a scholar; Dry den; Nat Lee; Rowe; Prior; 
Churchill; Dyer, author of Grongar Hill; Cowper; Southey. 
Other great Men. —Sir Harry Vane, the younger; Hakhiyt, 
the collector of the Voyages which bear his name; Sir 
Christopher Wren; Locke; South; Atterbury; Warren 
Hastings; Gibbon, the 'historian ; Cumberland; the elder 
Colman; Lord John Russell. The boys on the foundation 
were formerly separated from the town boys when in school 
by a bar or curtain. The Schoolroom was a dormitory 
belonging to the Abbey, and retains certain traces of its 
former ornaments. The College Hall, originally the Abbot’s 
Refectory, was built by Abbot Litlington, in the reign of 
Edward III., and the old louvre is still used for the escape 
of the smoke. The Dormitory was built by the Earl of 
Burlington, in 1722. In conformity with the old custom, 
the Queen’s scholars perform a play of Terence eveiy year 
at Christmas, with a Latin prologue and epilogue relating to 
current events. 

CHARTER HOUSE, (a corruption of Chartreuse,) upper 
end of Aldersgate Street. “An hospital, chapel, and 
school-house,” founded, 1611, by Thomas Sutton, of Camps 
Castle, Cambridge, for the free education of 40 poor 
boys and for the sustenance of 80 ancient gentlemen, 
captains, and others, brought to distress by shipwrecks, 
wounds, or other reverse of fortune. It was so called 
from a priory of Carthusian monks, founded in 1371 on 
a Pest-house field by Sir Walter Manny, knight. Lord of 
the town of Manny, in the diocese of Cambray, and knight 
of the garter in the reign of Edward III. The last pi’ior 
was executed at Tyburn, May 4th, 1535—his head set on 
London Bi’idge, and one of his limbs over the gateway 
of his own convent—the same gateway, it is said, a Per¬ 
pendicular arch, surmounted by a kind of dripstone and 
supj)orted by lions, which is still the entrance from Charter- 
House-square. The priory thus sternly dissolved, was sold 
by Thomas Howard, Eaid of Suffolk, to Thomas Sutton for 
13,000Z., and endowed as a charity by the name of “the 
Hospital of King James.” Sutton died before his work 
was complete, aiid was buried in the chai)el of the hos¬ 
pital beneath a sumi)tuous monument, the work of Nicholas 
Stone and Mr. Jansen of Southwark. This “triple good,” 
as Lord Bacon calls it — this “ masterpiece of Protestant 
English charity,” as it is called by Fuller — is under the 


204 


XXII.—CHARTER HOUSE. 


direction of the Queen, 15 governors, selected from the 
great officers of state, and the master of the hospital, whose 
income is 800?, a year, besides a capital residence within 
the walls. The most eminent master of the house was Dr, 
Thomas Burnet, author of the Theory of the Earth, master 
between 1685 and 1715; and the most eminent school¬ 
master, the Kev, Andrew Tooke (Tooke’s Pantheon), Emi- 
oient Scholars .—Richard Crashaw, the poet, author of Steps 
to the Temple.—Isaac Barrow, the divine; he was cele¬ 
brated at school for his love of fighting.—Sir William Black- 
stone, author of the Commentaries.—Joseph Addison and 
Sir Richard Steele were scholars at the same time.—John 
Wesley, who imputed his after-health and long life to the 
strict obedience with which he performed an injunction of 
his father’s, that he should run round the Charter House 
playing-green three times every morning.—The first Lord 
Ellenborough (Lord Chief Justice). — Lord Liverpool (the 
Prime Minister). — Bishop Monk.—AV. M. Thackeray. — Sir 
C. L. Ea.stlake, P.R. A,—The two eminent historians of Greece, 
Bishop Thirlwall and George Grote, Esq., were both together 
in the same form under Dr. Raine.—General Sir Henry 
Havelock.—John Leech, the genial artist and illustrator of 
Punch. Poor Brethren. —Elkanah Settle, the rival and an¬ 
tagonist of Dryden ; he died here in 1723-4.—John Bagford, 
the antiquary (d, 1716); was originally a shoemaker in Turn¬ 
stile.—Isaac de Groot,by several descents the nephew of Hugo 
Grotius ; he was admitted at the earnest intercession of Dr. 
Johnson,—Alexander Macbean (d, 1784), Johnson’s assistant 
in his Dictionary. Observe. —The great hall; parts of old 
Howard House (for such it was once called), with the initials 
T. H. (Thomas, Duke of Horfolk); the great staircase; the 
governor’s room, with its panelled chimney-piece, ceiling, and 
ornamental tapestry; the chapel (repaired in 1842 under the 
direction of Blore); the founder, Sutton’s tomb in the chapel. 
On opening the vault in 1842, the body was discovered in a 
coffin of lead, adapted to the shape of the body, like an 
Egyptian mummy-case. Chief Justice Ellenborough is buried 
by the side of Sutton, In the Master’s lodge are several excel¬ 
lent portraits: the founder, engraved by Vertue for Bearcroft’s 
book; Isaac Walton’s good old Bishop Morley; Charles II. ; 
Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham ; Duke of Monmouth ; 
Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury; William, Earl of Craven (the 
Queen of Bohemia’s Earl); Slieldon, Archbishop of Canterbury; 
Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham; Talbot, Duke of Shrewsbury; 
Lord Chancellor Somers; and one of Kneller’s finest w’orks, 
the portrait of Dr. Thomas Burnet. The foundation scholars. 


XXII.—Christ’s hospital. 


205 


44 in number, are presented by the governors in rotation, 
and are admitted at any age between 10 and 14. They are 
supported free of expense, that of £5 a-year for washing 
excepted. The value of a presentation to a boy entering at 
ten is estimated at one thousand pounds. The income of 
the Charter House, was in 1853-4, £28,908 7s. 7^d., arising 
from Estates in Cambridgeshire, Essex, Wilts, and Lincoln, 
and from funded property. The atmosphere of the city not 
being congenial to boyish natui’e and the confinement with¬ 
in walls being detrimental to health, it is intended to remove 
the school to Qodalming in Surrey. The school and green 
were sold, 1867, to the Merchant Taylors’ Company for their 
school. The old Pensioners remain. 

CHRIST’S HOSPITAL, Newgate Street, marked by its 
great hall, visible through a double railing from Newgate-street. 
This noble charity was founded on the site of the Grey Friars 
Monastery,by Edward VI., June 26th, 1553, ten days before his 
death, as an hospital for poor fatherless children and found¬ 
lings. It is commonly called ^‘The Blue Coat School,” 
from the dress worn by the boys, wliich is of the same 
age as the foimdation of the hospital. The dress is a 
blue coat or gown, a yellow petticoat, a red leather girdle 
round the waist, yellow stockings, a clergyman’s band 
round the neck, and a flat black cap of woollen yarn, about 
the size of a saucer. Blue was a colour originally confined to 
servant-men and boys, nor, till its recognition as part of the 
uniform of the British Navy, was blue ever looked upon as a 
colour to be worn by gentlemen. The Whigs next took it 
up, and now it is a colour for a nobleman to wear. The first 
stone of the New Hall was laid by the Duke of York, 
April 28th, 1825, and the Hall publicly opened May 29th, 
1829. The architect was James Shaw, who built the church 
of St. Dunstan’s in Fleet-street. It is better in its proportions 
than in its details. Observe .—At the upper end of the Hall, 
a large picture of Edward VI. granting the charter of incor¬ 
poration to the Hospital. It is commonly assigned to 
Holbein, but upon no good authority.— Large picture, by 
Verrio, of James II. on his throne (surrounded by his 
courtiers, all curious portraits), receiving the mathematical 
pupils at their annual presentation: a custom still kept up at 
Court. The painter presented it to the Hospital.—Full- 
length of Charles II., by Verrio. —Full-length of Sir Francis 
Child (d. 1713), from whom Child’s Banking-house derives 
its name.—Full-lengths of the Queen and Prince Albert, by 
Francis Grant, P.R.A .—Brook Watson, when a boy, attacked 


206 


xxiT.—C hrist’s hospital. 


by a shark, hy J.S. Copley, R.A., the father of Lord Lyndhurst. 
—The stone inserted in the wall behind the steAvard’s chair; 
when a monitor wishes to report the misconduct of a boy, he 
tells him to go to the stone.” In this Hall, eA’eiy year on 
St. Matthew’s Day (Sept. 21st), the Grecians, or head-boys, 
deliver a series of orations before the Maj^or, Corporation, and 
Governor.s, and here every Thursday, from Quinquagesima 
Sunday to Good Friday, the “Suppings in Public,” as they are 
called, are held ; a pictui-esque sight, and always well attended. 
Each governor has tickets to give away. The boAving to 
the president, and procession of the trades, is extremely 
curious. 

The Grammar-school AA’as built by the son of Mr. ShaAV, 
and answers all the purposes for Avhich it Avas erected. The 
tAvo chief classes in the school are called “ Grecians ” and 
''Deputy-Grecians.” Eminent Grecians .—Joshua Banies (d. 
1712,) editor of Anacreon and Euripides. Jeremiah Mark- 
land (d. 1776), an eminent critic, pai-ticularly in Greek 
literature. S. T. Coleridge, the poet (d. 1834). Thomas 
Mitchell, the ti-anslator of Aristojihanes (d. 1845). Thomas 
Barnes, for many years, and till his death (1841,) editor of the 
Times newspaper. Eminent Deputy-Gi'ecians .—Charles Lamb 
(Elia), whose delightful “Recollections of Christ’s Hospital,” 
have done much to uphold the dignity of the school (d. 
1834). Leigh Hunt. Eminent Scholars whose standing in 
the School is unknoim .—William Camden, author of the 
“ Britannia.” Bishop Stillingfleet. Samuel Richardson, author 
of “ Clarissa HarloAve.” 

The Mathematical-school AA^as founded by Charles II., in 
1672, for forty boy.s, called “King’s boys,” distinguished by 
a badge on the right ‘shoulder. The school AV'as afterwards 
enlarged, at the expense of a Mr. Stone. The boys on the 
neAV foundation wear a badge on the left shoulder, and are 
called “ The TAvelves,” on account of their number. To 
“The TAA’eHes” AA^as afterAvards added “The Tavos,” on 
another foundation. 

“ As I A^entured to call the Grecians the mnftis of the school, the King’s 
boys, as their character then was, may Avell pass for the janissaries. 
They Avere the constant terror to the younger part; and some Avho may 
read this, I doubt not, will remember the consternation into which the 
juvenile fry of us were throAvn, when the cry Avas raised in the cloister 
that' the First Order ’ Avas coming, for so they tenned the first form or 
class of those boys .”—Charles Lamb. 

The Writing-school was founded in 1694, and furnished at 
the sole charge of Sir John Moore, Lord Mayor in 1681. The 
school has ahvays been famous for its penmen. The Wards 


XXII.—MERCHANT TAYLORs’ SCHOOL. 


207 


or j^orruitories in wliicli tlie boys sleej) are seventeen in 
nnniber. Each bo}’- makes his own bed; and each ward is 
governed by a nurse and two or more monitors. 

The Counting-house contains a good portrait of Edward VI., 
after Holbein —very probably by him. The dress of the 
boys is not the only remnant of byegone times, peculiar to 
the school. Old names still haunt the precinct of the Grey- 
friars : the place where is stored the bread and butter is still 
the buttery; ” and the open ground in front of the Gram¬ 
mar-school is still distinguished as “ the Ditch,” because the 
ditch of the City ran through the precinct. The boys have 
only within the last few years ceased to take their milk from 
wooden bowls, their meat from wooden trenchers, and their 
beer from leathern black jacks and wooden piggins. They 
have still a currency and almost a language of their own. 
The Spital sermons are still preached before them. Every 
Easter Monday they visit the Royal Exchange, and every 
Easter Tuesday the Lord Mayor, at the Mansion-house. 
Mode of Admission .—Boys whose parents may not be free 
of the City of London are admissible on Free Presenta¬ 
tions, as they are called, as also are the sons of clergymen 
of the Church of England. The Lord Mayor has two pre¬ 
sentations annually, and the Court of Aldermen one each. 
The rest of the governors have presentations once in three 
years. By right, children whose parents have an income of 
300Z. a-year are excluded. A list of the governors who 
have presentations for the year is printed every Easter, and 
may be had at the counting-house of the Hospital. No boy 
is admitted before he is seven years old, or after he is nine : 
and no boy can remain in the school after he is fifteen—■ 
King’s Boys and Grecians alone excepted. Qualification for 
Governor .—Payment of 500?. An Alderman has the power 
of nominating a governor for election at half-price. The 
revenues of the hospital in 1859 were 63,930?. The number 
of children varies from 1200 to 1000; of these 800 are in 
London, and the rest at the Pi’eparatoiy School at Hertford, 
founded in 1683. The management is vested in foimdation 
and donation governors who have contributed not less than 
200,000?. to its funds. The Duke of Cambridge was chosen 
President in 1854, and thus for the first time since its 
foundation has Christ’s Hospital been without an Alderman 
for its President. 

MERCHANT TAYLORS’ SCHOOL, in Suffolk Lane, in 
the ward of Dowgate, founded in 1561, by the Merchant 
Taylors’ Company. Sir Thomas AVhite, who had recently 


508 XXII,—MERCHANT TAYLORS’ SCHOOL. 

founded St. John’s College, Oxford, was then a member of 
the Court; and Richard Hills, master of the Comi^any, gave 
500Z. towards the purchase of a portion of a house, called 
the “ Manor of the Rose,” sometime belonging to Stafford, 
Duke of Buckingham. 

“ The Duke being at the Rose, within the Parish 
St. Lawrence Poultney, did of me demand 
What was the speech among the Londoners 
Concerning the French journey.” 

Shakspeaee.— ZZenry VIIL, Acti., sc. 1. 

‘‘The Rose” had been formerly in the possession of the 
De la Pole or Suffolk family, and was originally built by Sir 
John Poultney, knt., five times Lord Mayor of London, in 
the reign of Edward III. Traces of its successive owners are 
still found in the name of the parish of “ St. Laurence Pount- 
ney,” in which the school is situate; in “Duck’s-foot-lane” 
(the Duke’s foot-lane, or private road from liis garden to the 
river) which is close at hand; and in “Suffolk-lane,” by 
which it is approached. The Great Fire destroyed this 
ancient pile. The present school (a brick building with 
pilasters), and the head-master’s residence adjoining, were 
erected in 1675. The former consists of the large upper 
schoolroom, two writing-rooms, formed, in 1829, out of part 
of the cloister; a class-room, and a library (standing in the 
situation of the ducal chapel), stored Avith a fair collection of 
theological and classical works. The school consists of 260 
boys. The charge for education has varied at different 
pei’iods, but it is now 107 per annum for each boy. Boys are 
admitted at any age, and may remain until the Monday after 
St. John the Baptist’s Day preceding their 19tli birthday. 
Presentations are in the gift of the members of the Court of 
the Company in rotation. Boys who have been entered on 
or below the third form are eligible to all the school prefer¬ 
ments at the Universities; those who have been entered 
higher, only to the exhibitions. The course of education 
since the foundation of the school has embraced Hebrew and 
classical literature; writing, arithmetic, and mathematics 
were introduced in 1829, and French and modern history in 
1846. There is no property belonging to the school, with 
the exception of the buildings above described; and it is 
supported by the Merchant Taylors’ Company out of their 
several “ funds, without any specific fund being set apart for 
that object;” it was, therefore, exempt from the inquiry of 
the Charity Commissioners; but like Winchestei', Eton, and 
Westminster, it has a college almost appropriated to its 
scholars. Thirty-seven out of the fifty fellowships at St. John’s, 


XXII.—CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL. 


209 


Oxford, founded by Sir Thomas White, belong to Merchant 
Taylors’; 8 exhibitions at Oxford, 6 at Cambridge, and 4 to 
either University, averaging from 30?. to 70?. per annum, 
besides a multitude of smaller exhibitions, are also attached 
to it. The election to these preferments takes place annually, 
on St. Barnabas’ Day, June 11th, with the sanction of the 
President or two senior Fellows of St. John’s. This is the 
chief speech-day, and on it the school prizes are distributed ; 
but there is another, called the doctors’ day,” in December. 
Plays were formerly acted by the boys of this school, as at 
Westminster. The earliest instance kno^vn was in 1665. 
Garrick, who was a personal friend of the then Head-Master 
of his time, was frequently present, and took great interest 
in the performances. Eminent Men educated at Merchant 
Taylors' School. —Bishop Andrews, Bishop Dove, and Bishop 
Tomson (three of the translators of the Bible); Edwin 
Sandys, the traveller, the friend of Hooker; Bulstrode 
Whitelocke, author of the Memorials which bear his name; 
James Shirley, the dramatic poet; the infamous Titus Oates; 
Charles Wlieatley, the ritualist; Neale, the author of the 
History of the Puritans; Edmund Calamy, the nonconformist, 
and his grandson of the same name; Edmund Gaytou, aiithor 
of the Festivous Notes on Don Quixote; John Byrom, author 
of the Pastoral, in the Spectator, 

“ My time, O ye Muses, was happily spent; ” 

Luke Milbourne, Dryden’s antagonist; Robert, the celebrated 
Lord Clive; Charles Mathews, the comedian; and Lieut.-Col. 
Dixon Denham, the African traveller. 

CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL, Milk Street, Cheapside, 
established 1835, for the sons of respectable pei’sons engaged 
in professional, commercial, or trading pursuits; and partly 
founded on an income of 900?. a-year, derived from certain 
tenements bequeathed by John Carpenter, town-clerk of 
London, in the reign of Henry V., ‘^for the finding and 
bringing up of four poor men’s children with meat, drink, 
apparel, learning at the schools, in the universities, &c., until 
they be preferred, and then others in their places for ever.” 
The school year is divided into thi’ee terms : Easter to July ; 
August to Chnstmas; January to Easter; and the charge for 
each pupil is 2?. 5s. a term. The printed form of application 
for admission may be had of the secretaiy, and must be filled 
up by the parent or guardian, and signed by a member of the 
Corporation of London. The general course of instruction 
includes the English, French, German, Latin, and Greek 

r 


210 XXII.—DEPARTMENT OF PRACTICAL ART. 


languages, writing, arithmetic, mathematics, book-keeping, 
geography, and history. Besides 8 free scholarships on the 
foundation, equivalent to 35Z, per annum each, and available 
as exhibitions to the Universities, there are the following 
exhibitions belonging to the school:—The “ Times ” Scholar¬ 
ship, value 30?. per annum; 3 Beaufoy Scholarships, the 
Salomons Scholarship, and the Travers Scholarship, 50?. per 
annum each ; the Tegg Scholarship, nearly 20?. per annum ; 
and several other valuable prizes. The first stone of the 
School was laid by Lord Brougham, October 21st, 1835. 

THE GOVERNMENT SCHOOL OF DESIGN —South 
Kensington Museum was established (1837) by the Board 
of Trade for the Improvement of Ornamental Art, with 
regard especially to the staple manufactures of this 
country. Mode of Admission .—The recommendation of a 
householder. The Library of Ornamental Art is very acces¬ 
sible not only to artists but to poor workmen, who can take 
down and consult any illustrated work (and in these the 
library is very rich), however expensive, on payment of one 
penny. The course of instruction comprehends Elementary 
drawing, colouring; drawing the figure after engi’aved copies 
from casts; painting the figure from casts; geometrical drawing 
applied to ornament; perspective; modelling from engraved 
copies, design, &c. There is also a class for wood-engraving 
under the direction of Mr. John Thompson, our best engraver 
on wood. The greatest number of students of the same calling 
are the ornamental painters and house-decorators; the next 
most numerous are draughtsmen and designers for various 
manufactures and trades. In connection with the head- 
school at Brompton, schools have been formed in many of the 
principal manufacturing districts throughout the country. 

Besides these, the visitor curious about modes of education 
should visit the “Wesleyan Normal College,” Horseferry- 
road, Westminster, established 1850 (James Wilson, architect), 
for the training of school-masters and mistresses, and the edu¬ 
cation of the children residing in the locality; and the “Ragged 
School,” in South Lambeth, founded by the late Mr. Beaufoy 
(d. 1851); the Normal School, in the Fulham-road. 


XXIII.—CIIAIIITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 


211 


XXlil.-HOSPITALSAND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 

In London there exist nearly 550 Charitable Institutions 
(or parent societies), divided into 

General Medical Hospitals. 

Medical Charities for special purposes; such as Small Pox, Con¬ 
sumption, Cancer, &c. 

General Dispensaries. 

Institutions for the preservation of life and public morals. 
Societies for reclaiming the fallen and staj-ing the progress of 
crime. 

Societies for the relief of general destitution and distress. 

Societies for aiding the resources of the industrious (exclusive 
of loan funds and savings’ banks). 

Societies for the deaf and dumb and the blind. 

Colleges, Hospitals, and Institutions of Almshouses for the aged. 
Pension Societies. 

Provident Societies chiefly for specified classes. 

Asylums for orphan and other necessitous cliildren. 

Educational Foundations. 

School Societies, Religious Books, Cliurch-aiding, and Christian 
Visiting Societies. 

Bible and Missionary Societies, 


and disbursing annually in aid of their respective objects 
1,805,635Z., of which upwards of 1,000,000^. is raised by 
voluntary contributions. 

Of these institutions five are Royal Hospitals. One for 
the education of youth (Christ's Hospital); three for the 
cure of disease (St. Bartholomeio'Sy St. Thomas's, and Beth¬ 
lehem). 

The leading institutions which the stranger or resident in 
London will find best worth visiting are :— 

ST. BARTHOLOMEW’S HOSPITAL, in Smithfield, the 
earliest institution of the kind in London, occupying part of 

p 2 


212 


XXIII.—ST. Bartholomew’s hospital. 


the Pi'ioiy of St, Bartholomew, founded a.d. 1102, by Rahere, 
the first Prior; repaired and enlarged by the executors of 
Richard Whittington, the celebrated Mayor; and founded 
anew, at the dissolution of religious houses, by Henry VIII., 
for the continual relief and help of an hundred sore and 
diseased; ” the immediate superintendence of the Hospital 
being committed by the king to Thomas Vicary, Serjeant- 
Surgeon to Henry VIII,, Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth, 
and author of “The Englishman’s Treasure,” the first work 
on anatomy published in the English language. The great 
quadrangle of the present edifice was built (1730-33) by James 
Gibbs, architect of the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields. 
The gate towards Smithfield was built in 1702, and the New 
Surgery in 1842. This Hospital gives relief to all poor per¬ 
sons suffering from accident or diseases, either as in-patients 
or out-patients. Accidents, or cases of urgent disease, may 
be brought without any letter of recommendation or other 
formality at all houi'S of the day or night to the Surgery, 
where there is a person in constant attendance, and the 
aid of the Resident Medical Officers can be instantly obtained. 
General admission-day, Thursday, at 11 o’clock. Petitions 
for admission to be obtained at the Steward’s Office, any day, 
between 10 and 2. The Hospital contains 580 beds, and 
relief is afforded to 70,000 patients annually. The in¬ 
patients are visited daily by the Physicians and Surgeons : 
and, during the summer session, four Clinical Lectures are 
delivered weekly. Students can reside within the Hospital 
walls, subject to the rules of the Collegiate sj’-stem, e.stab- 
lished under the direction of the Treasurer and a Committee 
of Governors of the Hospital, Some of the teachers and 
other gentlemen connected with the Hospital also receive 
Students to reside with them. Between 200/. and 300/. are 
spent every year for strong sound port wine, for the sick poor 
in Bartholomew’s Hospital. It is bought in pipes, and drawn 
off as needed. Nearly 2000 lbs, weight of castor oil; 200 
gallons of spirits of wine, at 17 a‘. a gallon; 12 tons of linseed 
meal; 1000 lbs. weight of senna ; 27 cwt. of salts, are items 
in the annual account for dimgs ; the grand total spent upon 
physic, in a twelvemonth, being 2,600/,; 5000 yards of calico 
are wanted for rollers for bandaging ; to say nothing of the 
stouter and stiffer fabric used for plaisters. More than half 
a hundred weight of sarsaparilla is used every week, a sign 
how much the constitutions of the patients require improve¬ 
ment. In a year, 29,700 leeches were bought for the use of 
the establishment. A ton and a half of treacle is annually 
used in syrup, Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of 


xxiii. —ST. Bartholomew’s hospital. 


213 


the blood, was Physician to the Hospital for 34 years 
(1609-43). St. Bartholomew’s enjoys a high reputation 
as a School of Medicine, and is resorted to by a large 
number of pupils. Edward Nourse, Drs. William and David 
Pitcairn, and Abernethy have in turn lectured here. Lec¬ 
tures on Anatomy and Surgery, Physiology, and other 
branches of medicine, are given in a large Theatre, well 
adapted for the purpose. Students have access to the 
Museums of Anatomy, Materia Medica, Botany, and to a 
well-furnished Library. Prizes and honorary distinctions 
are yearly given to the most deserving pupils, and several 
scholarships worth ibl. to 50Z. per annum are obtainable by 
competition. In 1843, the Governors founded a Collegiate 
Establishment, to afford the Pupils the moral advantages, 
together with the comfort and convenience, of a residence 
within the walls of the Hospital, and to supply them with 
ready guidance and assistance in their studies. The chief 
officer of the College is called the Warden. The President 
of the Hospital must have served the office of Lord Mayor. 
The qualification of a Governor is a donation of 100 guineas. 
The greatest individual benefactor to St. Bartholomew’s was 
Dr. Eadcliffe, physician to Queen Anne, who left the yearly 
sum of 500?. for ever, towards mending the diet of the Hos¬ 
pital, and the further sum of 100?. for ever, for the pur¬ 
chase of linen. Observe. —Portiuits : Henry VIII. in the Court¬ 
room, esteemed an original, though not by Holbein; of Dr. 
Eadcliffe,by ir?i€??e/v Perceval Pott, by Sir J. Reynolds; Aber¬ 
nethy, by Sir T. Lawrence. The Good Samaritan, and The 
Pool of Bethesda, on the grand staircase, were painted gra¬ 
tuitously by Hogarth; for which he was made a governor 
for life. The income of the Hospital is between 30,000?. and 
40,000?. a year. 

BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL (vulg. Bedlam), in St. George’s 
Fields. An hospital for insane people, founded (1547) in 
the reign of Henry VIII. On the dissolution, that king 
bestowed the suppressed priory of Our Lord of Beth¬ 
lehem, founded 1246 by Simon Fitz Mary, Sheriff of 
London, on the City of London, by whom it was first con¬ 
verted into an hospital for lunatics. Fitz-Mary’s Hospital 
which stood in Bi^*hopsgate Without (where now is Bethlem 
Court), was taken down in 1675, and a second Hospital 
built in Moorfields, ‘‘at the cost of nigh 17,000?.” Of this 
second Bedlam (Eobert Hooke, architect) there is a view 
in Strype. It was taken down in 1814, and the first stone 
of the present Hospital (James Lewis, architect) laid April 


214 


XXIII.—ST. Thomas’s hospital. 


IStli, 1812. The cupola was added by Sydney Siniiko. The 
first Hospital could accommodate only 50 or 60, and the 
second 150. The building in St. George’s-fields was originally 
constiaicted for 198 patients, but this being found too limited 
for the purposes and resources of the Hospital, a wing was 
commenced for 166 additional patients, 1838. Two remote 
wings are devoted to noisy patients, male and female. The 
whole building (the House of Occupations included) covers 
14 acres. In one y^ear the Governoi’S admitted nearly 600 
patients, of whom 206 were cured, and 13 died, and 344 
(136 criminal lunatics)remained. The incomeis about 30,000?. 
per annum. The expenses exceed 20,000?. The Avay in 
which the comfort of the patients is studied by eveiy one 
connected with the Hospital cannot be too highly com¬ 
mended. The women have pianos, and the men billiard and 
bagatelle-tables. There are, indeed, few things to remind you 
that you are in a mad-house beyond the bone knives in use, 
and a few cells lined and floored with cork and india-rubber, 
and against which the most insane patient may knock his head 
without the possibility of hurting it. Among the unfortu¬ 
nate inmates have been—Peg Nicholson, for attempting to 
stab George 111.; she died here in 1828, after a confinement 
of 42 years.—Hatfield, for attempting to shoot the same 
king in Dmry-lane Theatre.—Oxford, for firing at Queen 
Victoria in St. James’s Park.—M‘Naghten, for shooting Mr. 
Edward Drummond at Charing-cross; he mistook Mr. Drum¬ 
mond, the private secretary of Sir Robert Peel, for Sir R. Peel 
himself. Visitors interested in cases of lunacy should see 
Hamvell Asylum, on the Great Western Railway (7^ miles from 
London), and the Colney Batch Asylum on the Great Northern 
Railway (64 miles from London), the latter covering 119 
acres, and erected at a cost of 200,000?. 

ST. THOMAS’S HOSPITAL, temporarily removed to 
Surrey Gardens, Lambeth, is about to Ido rebuilt, on 
ground gained from the river on the right bank of the 
Thames, between Lambeth Palace and Westminster Bridge. 
It Avill consist of seven detached blocks of building four 
storeys high. This Hospital for sick and diseased poor per¬ 
sons, under the management of the Corporation of the City 
of London, was founded (1213) by Richard, Prior of Ber¬ 
mondsey, as an Almonry, or house of alms; and augmented 
(1215) for canons regular, by Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of 
Winchester; bought at the dissolution of religious houses 
by the citizens of London, and opened by them as a Hospital 
for poor, impotent, and diseased people, Nov. 1552. The 


Xxill.—GUY^S HOSPITAL. ^15 

building having fallen into decay, the governors, aided by 
the benevolence of the public, rebuilt the whole (1701-6) 
in High Street, Soutlnvark. Three wards were built at the 
sole cost of Thomas Frederick, Esq.; and three by Thomas 
Guy, the munificent founder of the Hospital which bears his 
name. Day of admission, Tuesday morning, at 10. Patients 
stating their complaints may receive a petition at the 
steward’s office, to be signed by a housekeeper, who must 
engage to remove the patient on discharge or death, or 
pay 1^. Is. for funeral. The qualification of a governor is a 
donation of 50Z. Nearly 50,000 in and out patients are 
received and treated in one year. The income has risen to 
32,000Z. per annum. In 1862 the South-Eastern Kailway 
gave by award 296,000^. for the building and ground on 
which it stood, close to their London Bridge Terminus, to 
enable them to carry past one corner of it their branch line 
to Charing Cross. 

GUY’S HOSPITAL, in Southwark, for the sick and 
lame, situated near London Bridge, built by Dance (d. 1768), 
and endowed by Thomas Guy, a bookseller in Lombard- 
street, who is said to have made his foi’tune ostensibly by the 
sale of Bibles, but more, it is thought, by purchasing seamen’s 
tickets, and by his great success in the sale and transfer 
of stock in the memorable South Sea year of 1720. Guy 
was a native of Tamworth, in Staffordshire, and died 
(1724) at the age of 80. The building of the Hospital 
cost 18,793?. 165. Ic?., and the endowment amounted to 
219,499?. Os. 4c?. The founder, though 76 when the work 
began, lived to see his Hospital covered with the roof. In 
the first couii; is his statue in brass, dressed in his livei’y 
gown, and in the chapel shouldering God’s altar ”) another 
statue of him in marble, by the elder Bacon. Sir Astley 
Cooper, the eminent surgeon (d. 1841), is buried in the 
chapel. 

Gentlemen who desire to become Students must give 
satisfactory testimony as to their education and conduct. 
They are required to pay 40?. for the first year, 40?. for 
the second year, and 10?. for every succeeding year of 
attendance. 

The payment for the year admits to tho Lectures, Practice, 
and all the privileges of a Student. 

Dressers, Clinical Clerks, Assistants, and Resident Obste¬ 
tric Clerks are selected according to merit from those 
Students who have attended a second year. 

The Apothecary to the Hospital is authorised to enter 


216 xxiTi.—ST. George’s and cheese a hospitals. 

tlie Names of Students, and to give further particulars if 
required. 

ST. GEORGE’S HOSPITAL, Hyde Park Corner, at the 
top of Grosvenor-place. A Hospital for sick and lame 
people, supported by voluntary contributions; built by 
William Wilkins, R.A., architect of the National Gallery, on 
the site of Lanesborough House, the London residence of 

“ Sober Lanesbro’ dancing with the gout;” 

converted into an Infirmary in 1733. John Hunter, the 
physician, died (1793) in this Hospital. He had long suf¬ 
fered from an affection of the heart; and in an altercation 
with one of his colleagues, he suddenly stopped, retired to 
an ante-room, and immediately expired. 

CHELSEA HOSPITAL. A Royal Hospital for old and 
disabled soldiers, of which the first stone was laid by 
Charles II. in person, March, 1681-2. It has a centre, with 
two wings of red brick, with stone dressings, faces the Thames, 
and shows more effect with less means than any other of 
Wren’s buildings. The history of its erection is contained 
on the frieze of the great quadrangle:— 

“In subsidium et levamen emeritorum senio, belloque fractorinn, 
condidit Carolus Secundus, auxit Jacobus Secundus, perfecere Gulielmus 
et Maria Rex et Regina, MDCXC.” 

^ The total cost is said to have been 150,000?. Ohsei've .— 
Portrait of Charles II. on horseback (in hall), by Fem'o and 
Henry Cooke; altar-piece (in chapel) by Sebastian Ricci; 
bronze statue of Charles II. in centre of the great quad¬ 
rangle, executed by Ch'inling Gibbons for Tobias Rustat. 
In the Hall, General Whitelocke was tried, and the Courts 
of Inquiry into the Convention of Cintra, and into the 
mortality among the troops in the Crimean campaign, sat. 
Here, where the Duke of Wellington’s body lay in state, 
are hung, modestly out of sight, 46 colours; and in the 
Chapel, 55 (all captured by the British army in various 
parts of the world), viz.:—34 French ; 13 American ; 4 Dutch; 
13 eagles taken frem the French,—2 at Waterloo, 1 by 
Sergt. Ewart, of the Scots Greys, the other by Colonel 
Kennedy (for Mons. Thiers’ information, 1862); 2 Salamanca ; 

2 Madrid; 4 Martinique; 1 Barrosa; and a few staves of the 
171 colours taken at Blenheim. At St. Paul’s, AYhere the Blen¬ 
heim colours were suspended, not a rag nor a staff remains. 


XXIII.—GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 


217 


Eminent Persons interred in the Chapel .—William Cheselden, 
the famous surgeon (d. 1752); Rev. William Young (d. 1757), 
the original Parson Adams in Fielding’s Joseph Andrews. 
Dr. Arbuthnot filled the office of Physician, and the Rev. 
Philip Francis (the translator of Horace) the office of Chaplain 
to the Hospital. The building is calculated to accommodate 
530 in-pensioners, who are liberally provided for by annual 
votes. The Hospital is always full, the number of appli¬ 
cants for admission being generally in the proportion of two 
and three for every vacancy. As a general rule, no appli- 
, cant is admitted at a lower rate of in-pension than Is. a day, 
but all applications for admission are decided on by the 
Commissioners solely with reference “to the man’s cha¬ 
racter and merits as a soldier,'* without considering his 
period of service. The number of out-pensioners is about 
63,000, at rates varying from \\d. to 3s. lOd There is a 
pleasant tradition that Hell Gwynne materially assisted in 
the foundation of Chelsea Hospital. Her head has long been 
the sign of a neighbouring public-house. The Hospital is 
managed by a Governor, Commissioners, &c. The Governor 
is appointed by the Sovereign, acting on the advice of the 
Commander-in-Chief. 

GREENWICH HOSPITAL, on the right bank of the 
Thames, 6 miles below London Bridge.—An Asylum for old 
and disabled seamen (not officers) of the Royal Navy, founded 
by William III. (at the desire of his Queen, Mary), anxious to 
provide for the wounded seamen who returned from the 
Ijattle of La Hogue, and erected on the site of the old 
Manor House of our kings, in which Henry VIII. and 
his daughters Mary and Elizabeth were born. Charles II. 
intended to erect a new palace on the site; the w^est wing 
was commenced in 1664, from the designs of Webb, the 
kinsman of Inigo Jones ; indeed, it forms part of the present 
building. The first stone of the Hospital works, in con¬ 
tinuation of the unfinished palace, was laid 3rd Jmie, 1696 ; 
and in January, 1705, the building was first opened for 
the reception of pensioners. The river front is doubtless 
AVebb’s design. The colonnades, the cupolas, and the great 
hall, are by Wren. The chapel w^as built by Athenian Stuart, 
in place of the original chapel, built by Ripley, and destroyed 
by fire 2nd January, 1779. The brick buildings to the west 
are by Vanbrugh. The hovise seen in the centre of the 
great square was built by Inigo Jones for Queen Henrietta 
Maria, and is now the Royal Naval School. The statue, 
by Rysbrack, in the centre of the quadrangle, represents 


218 


XXllI.—GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 


George II., and was cut from a block of marble taken from 
the French by Sir George Hooke. 

The Hall, a well-proportioned edifice, 106 feet long, 56 feet 
wide, and 50 feet high, is the work of Wren. The emblema¬ 
tical ceiling and side-walls were executed by Sir James 
Thornhill, between 1708-27, and cost 6685Z., or 3Z. per yard for 
the ceiling, and IZ. for the sides. Among the portraits, observe, 
full-length of the Earl of Nottingham, Admiral of England 
against the Spanish Armada, Vansomer; half-lengths, painted 
for the Duke of York (James II.), of Monk, Duke of Albe¬ 
marle; Montague, Earl of Sandwich; Admirals Ayscue, Law- 
son, Tyddeman, Mings, Penn, Harman (fine), and Vice-Admi¬ 
rals Berkeley, Smith, and Jordan, by Sir P. Lely, —all cele¬ 
brated commanders at sea against the Dutch in the reign of 
Charles II.; Bussell, Earl of Orford, victor at La Hogue, 
Bockman; Sir George Rooke, w'ho took Gibraltar, JDald; Sir 
Cloudesley Shovel, Dahl; several Admirals, Kneller ; Captain 
Cook, by Dance (painted for Sir Joseph Banks); Sir Thomas 
Hardy, Evans. The other portraits are principally copies by 
inferior artists. Among the subject-pictures, observe, Death 
of Captain Cook, Zoffany ; Lord Howe’s Victory of the 1st of 
June, Imitherbourg (fine); Battle of Trafalgar, J. M. W. Turner. 
The statues, erected by vote of Parliament, represent Sir 
Sydney Smith, Lord Exmouth, and Lord De Sauniarez, and 
cost 1500Z.-each,—the Smith by KirTc of Dublin, the Exmouth 
by Mac Dowell of London, and the De Sauniarez by Steel of 
Edinburgh. In Upper Hall, observe, Astrolabe pi'esented to 
Sir Francis Drake by Queen Elizabeth; coat worn by Nelson 
at the Battle of the Nile; coat and waistcoat in which Nelson 
was killed at Trafalgar. 

“ The coat is the undress unifonn of a vice-admiral, lined with white 
silk, with lace on the cuffs, and epaulettes. Four stars—of the Orders of 
the Bath, St. Ferdinand and IMerit, the Crescent, and St. Joachim—are 
sewn on the left breast, as Nelson habitually wore them ; which disproves 
the stoiy that he purposely adorned himself with his decorations on 
going into battle! The course of the fatal ball is shown by a hole over 
the left shoulder, and part of the epaulette is tom away; which agrees 
with Dr. Sir William Beattie’s account of Lord Nelson’s death, and with 
the fact that pieces of the bullion and pad of the epaulette adhered to 
tlie ball, which is now in Her Majesty’s possession. The coat and 
waistcoat are stained in several places with the hero’s blood.”— Sir 
Harris Nicolas. In King Charles’ Ward, may be seen the old hat which 
he wore atTeneriffe, and where he lost his arm. 

The UAapeZ, built 1779-89, hy Athenian Stuart, contains an 
altar-piece, ‘^The Shipwreck of St. Paul,” by B. West, P. R, A., 
and monuments, erected bjr King William IV., to Admiral 
Sir Richard Goodwin Keat.s, and Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy 


XXIir.—GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 


219 


CNelson’s captain at Trafalgar ); the former by Chantrey, and 
the latter by Belines. Keats, as the inscription sets forth, 
Avas the shipmate and Avatchmate of William IV., on board the 
Prince George, 1779-81; the commoner seiwing as lieutenant, 
and the king as midshipman. 

The income of the Hospital is about 150,000Z. a year, 
derived from an annual Parliamentary grant of 20,000?.; from 
fines levied against smuggling, 19,500?.; effects of Captain 
Kidd, the pirate, 6472?.; forfeited and unclaimed shares of 
prize and bounty money, granted in 1708; 6000?. a year, 
granted in 1710, out of the coal and culm tax; various pri¬ 
vate bequests, particularly one of 20,000?. from Eobert Os- 
baldeston, and the valuable estates forfeited, in 1715, by the 
Earl of DervventAvater. The number of pensioners has been 
reduced to 200 or 300, infirm or bedridden, since 1865, when 
most of the sailors inhabiting the hospital quitted it in order 
to live at home with their friends, on an alloAA^ance from its 
funds of 25. a-day, in addition to their service pension. It 
appears that the value of the privileges of being an inmate 
Avas greatly exaggerated. Tlie building is noAv available as a 
Medical Hospital for Avounded seamen during time of Avar. 
It has room for 2,600 inmates. 

The Hospital Gates open at Sunrise. The Painted Hall is 
open evei-y Week-day from Ten to Seven during the Summer 
months, and from Ten to Three in the Winter; and on Sun¬ 
days after Divine Service in the Morning. On Monday and 
Friday it is open free to the public ; and on the other days, 
on payment of threepence. Soldiers and sailors are admitted 
free at all times. The Chapel is open under the same regu¬ 
lations as the Painted Hall. 

Other Hospitals .—Among the noble institutions of a like 
natnre with Avhich London abounds may be mentioned :— 
1. The London Hospital. 2. Westminster Hospital, Broad 
Sanctuary, Westminster, relieves about 16,000 patients annu¬ 
ally, of Avhom more than one-half are admitted on no other 
claim than (the greatest) the urgency of their cases. 3. Mid¬ 
dlesex Hospital. 4. Royal Free Hospital, in Gray’s-Inn-road. 

5. King’s College Hospital, Portugal-street, Lincoln’s-Inn-fields. 

6. UniA'ei’sity College Hospital. 7. Charing-cross Hospital. 
8. St. Mary’s Hospital, Cambridge-place, Paddington. 

Hospital for Sich Children. The Cancer Hospital (Free) 
at Chelsea; Office, 167, Piccadilly; an excellent institution, 
has 400 constant patients. 

The FRENCH HOSPICE, Victoria Park, South Hack- 


220 


XXI] I.—FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 


NEY, originally founded for the succour of Protestant refu¬ 
gees driven from France by the Revocation of the Edict of 
Nantes, 1686, endowed with sums of money by M. Gastignjs 
Ph. Hervart, Baron de Huningue, and the Duchesse de la 
Force, was removed from its original site, Old-street, St. 
Luke’s, 1866, and rebuilt in the picturesque style of a French 
chateau, Avith extinguisher turrets of brick and stone, at a 
cost of 20,000/., Mr. Roumieu, architect. Within its walls 
60 inmates are lodged and provided for. Many Spitalfields 
and Norwich Silkweavers, descendants of French refugees, 
have been succoured from its fund. In the court-room are 
portraits of benefactors. 

The FOUNDLING HOSPITAL, Guildford Street, was 
founded in 1739, by Captain Thomas Coram, as “an hospital 
for exposed and deserted children.” The ground was bought 
of the Earl of Salisbury for 7000/., and the Hospital built by 
Theodore Jacobson (d. 1772), architect of the Royal Hospital 
at Gosport. The Hospital was changed, in 1760, from a 
Foundling Hospital to Avhat it now is, an Hospital for poor 
illegitimate children whose mothei’S are known. The 
committee requires to be satisfied of the previous good 
character and present necessity of the mother of every 
child proposed for admission. The qualification of a 
governor is a donation of 50/. Among the principal bene¬ 
factors to the Foundling Hospital, the great Handel stands 
unquestionably the first. On the organ in the chapel he fre¬ 
quently performed his Oratorio of the Messiah. Observe. —In 
the chapel, an altar-piece, by West, and in the Committee Room, 
Poi'trait of Captain Coram, full-length, by Hoyarth. 

“ Tlie portrait I painted with the most pleasure, and in which I par¬ 
ticularly wished to excel, was that of Captain Coram for the Foundling 
Hospital; and if I am so wretched an artist as my enemies assert, it is 
somewhat strange that this, which was one of the first I painted the size 
of life, should stand the test of twenty years’ competition, and be 
generally thought the best portrait in the place, notwithstanding the 
first painters in the kingdom exerted all their talents to vie with it.”— 
Hogarth. 

The March to Finchley, by Hogarth; Moses brought to 
Pharaoh’s Daughter, by Hogarth; Dr. Mead, by Allan 
Ramsay; Lord Dartmouth, by Sir Joshua Reynolds; 
George II., by Shackleton; View of the Foundling Hospital, by 
Richard Wilson ; St. George’s Hospital, by Richard WiUon ; 
Sutton’s Hospital (the Charter House), by Gainsborough; 
Chelsea Hospital, by Haytley; Bethlehem Hospital, by 
Haytley ; St. Thomas’s Hospital, by Wale; Greenwich Hos- 


XXIII.—MAGDALEN AND LOCK HOSPITALS. 221 


pital, by Wale; Christ’s Hospital, by Wale; three sacred 
subjects, by Hayman, Highmore, Wills; also bas-relief, 
by Ryshrack. These pictures were chiefly gifts, and illustrate 
the state of art in England about the middle of the last 
centuiy. The music in the chapel of the Hospital on 
Sundays—the children being the choristers—is fine, and 
worth hearing. Lord Chief Justice Tenterden (d. 1832) is 
buried in the chapel. 

The Foundling is open for the inspection of strangers 
every Sunday after morning service—when the children are 
at dinner—an interesting sight, and every Monday from 10 
to 4. The juvenile band of the establishment perform from 
3 to 4. The services of the chapel on Sundays commence 
in the morning at 11 o’clock, and in the afternoon at 3, pre¬ 
cisely. The servants are not permitted to receive fees, but a 
collection is made at the chapel doors to defray the expenses 
of that part of the establishment. 

MAGDALEN HOSPITAL, St. George’s Fields, for the 
reformation and relief of penitent prostitutes. Instituted 
1758, chiefly by the exertions of Mr. Dingley, Sir John 
Fielding, Mr. Saunders Welch, and Jonas Han way. A sub- 
sci’iption of 20 guineas or more at one time, or of 5 guineas 
per annum for five successive years, is a qualification of a 
govei'nor for life. 

LOCK HOSPITAL, CHAPEL, and ASYLUM, Harrow 
Road, Westbourne Green. Supposed to be so called from 
the French loques, rags, from the rags (lint) applied to 
wounds and soi'es; so lock of wool, lock of hair. The Hos¬ 
pital (the only one of the kind in London) was established 
in 1746, for the cure of females suffering from disox'ders 
contracted by a vicious course of life ; the Chapel in 1764, 
as a means of income to the Hospital; and the Asylum in 
1787, for the reception of penitent females recovered in the 
Hospital. A subscription of 3 guineas annually entitles to 
one recommendation; 501. donation, or 5 guineas annually, 
constitutes a governor. The Loke, or Lock, in Kent-street, 
in Southwark (from which the present Hospital derives its 
name), was a lazar-house, or ’spital for leprous people, from 
a very early period. There was a second betwixt Mile End 
and Stratford-le-Bow; a third at Kingsland, betwixt Shore¬ 
ditch and Stoke Newington ; and a fourth at Knightsbridge, 
St. Giles’s-in-the-Fields, and St. James’s Hospital in West¬ 
minster (now the Palace), were both instituted for the 
reception of lepers. 


222 


XXIIl.—ROYAL HUMANE SOCIETY. 


The SEAMEN’S HOSPITAL SHIP (Caledonia, now 
Dreadnought), for Sick and Diseased Seamen of all Nations; 
who, on presenting themselves alongside the ship, are im¬ 
mediately received, without the necessity of a recommenda¬ 
tory letter. The Hospital is supported by voluntary con¬ 
tributions. The oHginal Dreadnought (or hospital on this 
mooring) fought at Trafalgar under Captain Conn, and 
captured the Spanish three-decker the San Juan. 

Among the leading Societies for the Preserv^atiou of Human 
Life, Health, and Morals, may be mentioned:— 

The ROYAL HUMANE SOCIETY, for the recovery of 
persons from drowning, founded by Dr. Hawes; instituted 
1774 ; and still maintained by voluntary contributions. 
The Receiving House, a tasteful classic building, by J. B. 
Bunning, is close to the Serpentine River, in Hyde Park, and 
the Society’s office at 3, Ti’afalgar-square. During a severe 
frost the Society has 50 icemen in its employ, at an expense 
of 45. Qd. a day for each man. 

The MODEL BATHS and WASH-HOUSES, in Goulston- 
SQUAEE, Whitechapel (P. P. Baly, Engineer and Architect); 
George-street, Euston-square ; St. Martin’s-in-the-Fieldb, 
behind the National Gallery; Marylebone; Westminster; 
St. James’s, Piccadilly. That in Goulston-square, erected in 
1847, was the earliest in point of time, and is still, perhaps, not 
to be surpassed. They are all self-supporting, and have contri¬ 
buted materially to the comfort and health of the lower and 
middle classes of London. The Baths are scrupulously clean. 

The Charities for the Blind, the Deaf, and the Dumb are 
important and well deserving attention. The leading insti¬ 
tutions of this nature are :— 

London Society eor Teaching the Blind to Read, 1, 
Avenue-road, St. John’s-wood; instituted 1839. School for 
THE INDIGENT Blind, St. George’s-fields, Surrey; instituted 
1799. Asylum for the Support and Education of Deaf 
AND Dumb Children, Old Kent-road, Surrey; instituted 
1792; Royal National Lifeboat Institution, John-street, 
Adelpbi. 

For further information, see Mr. Sampson Low’s excellent 
volume on the “ Charities of London.” 

MODEL LODGING-HOUSES. In 1864, Mr. George Pea¬ 
body, a genei’ous American merchant in London, gave 
150,000?. to the poor of London. This has been laid out 


XXIII.—MODEL LODGING HOUSES. 


223 


in buying land or building Model Lodging Houses for the 
poor, which are let at sums varying from 5s. for 3 rooms, 
to 25. 6d. a week for 1 room. The buildings already erected, 
5 storeys high, are in Essex-road, Islington; Love-lane, 
Shadwell; and Commercial-street, Spitalfields—eight more 
w’ill be built in convenient situations, under the direction 
of the Trustees. Miss Coutts has already expended 50,000^. 
on a like object in Bethnal-green. The corporation of London 
have devoted 120,000/. and a piece of ground in Vine-street, 
FaiTingdon-road, for the erection of the great “Refuge" for 
receiving and lodging destitute poor, especially in inclement 
seasons. 

BRITISH AND FOREIGN BIBLE SOCIETY, near 
Blackfriars Bridge, has printed the Bible in one hundred 
languages, and distributes yearly nearly two and a half million 
copies. Annual income, 171,923/. 


224 


XXIV.—CLUBS. 


XXIV.-CLUB HOUSES. 

PRINCIPAL CLUBS IN LONDON. 

Those marked with an asterisk {*) admit Strangers to dine in the 
Strangers' Boom. 


Name. 

Number 
of Mem¬ 
bers li¬ 
mited to. 

I Entrance 

Fee. 

1 Annual 
[ Sub- 
scription. 

I Where 

1 Situate. 

i 

Alpine . 


£ s. 

£ s. 

1 

8, St. Martin’s-pl., 
Trafalgar-sq. 

♦Army and Navy 

1450 

.30 0 

6 11 

Pall-mall. 

Ai'thui-’s . . . 

600 

21 0 

10 10 

St. James’s-st. 

Athenaeum 
Athenaeum, junior. 

Boodle’s . . . 

1200 

26 5 

7 7 

Pall-mall. 

29, King-st., St. 
James’s. 

28, St. James’s-st. 

Brooks’s . 

575 

9 9 

11 11 

St. James’s-st. 

Carlton . . 

Carlton, junior . . 

800t 

15 15 

10 10 

Pall-mall. 

Pall-mall (14, Re¬ 
gent-street. 

City of London 
Cocoa Tree 


26 5 

6 6 

Old Broad-st.,City 
St. James’s-st. 

•Conservative . . 

1500 

26 5 

8 8 

St. James’s-st. 

•Garrick . 

Gresham . . . 

350 

21 0 

6 6 

5, New King-st., 
Covent.-garden. 
Gresham-pL.City. 

Guards . 

Oflicers of Hous. Troops only. 

70, Pall-mall. 

•Junior United Serv. 
New City Club . . 

1500 

30 0 

6 0 

Regent-street. 
George-yd., Lom¬ 
bard-street. 

Oriental . . . 

800 

21 0 

3 0 

Hanover-square. 

•Oxford &Cambridge 

1170t 

26 5 

6 6 

71, Pall-mall. 

•Reform . . . 

1400 2 

26 5 

10 10 

Pall-mall. 

Travellers’ 

700 

21 0 

10 10 

Pall-mall. 

Union. . . . 

1000 

32 11 

6 6 

Trafalgar-square. 

United Service 

1500 

30 0 

6 0 

Pall-mall. 

•University Club 
White’s . . . 

Whittington . 

100011 
550 

26 5 

6 0 

2 2 

Pall-mall. 

37 and 38, St. 

James’s-street. 
37, Arundel-street 
Strand. 

•Windham . . 

♦Whitehall Club 

600 

27 6 

8 0 

11, St. James’s-sq. 
Parliament-street, 
Westminster, j 


From tlie preceding table it will be seen that the twenty-six 
large clubs are nearly in one locality ; nine being in Pall- 
mall, and four in St. James’s-street, a disti'ict hence called 
Club-Land. 

t Exclusive of Peers and Members of House of Commons. 

X 686 from each University. 

g Exclusive of Honorary, Supernumerary, and Life M embers, 
y 600 of each University. 


























XXIV.—CLUBS. 


225 


UNITED SERVICE CLUB, at the comer of Pall Mall 
and the opening into St. JxVMEs’s Park, erected 1826, by John 
Nash, architect. This is considered to be one of the most com¬ 
modious, economical, and best managed of all the London 
Club-houses. The pictures, though numerous, are chiefly copies. 

JUNIOR UNITED SERVICE CLUB, N. corner of 
Charles Street and E. side of Regent Street, rebuilt and 
enlarged 1857, from the designs of Messrs. Nelson and Innes. 

The ARMY AND NAVY CLUB, in Pall Mall, corner of 
George Street, St. James’s Square, was built 1847-50, 
from the designs of Messrs. Parnell and Smith. The carcase 
or shell of the building cost 18,500?.; the interior 16,500?.— 
in all 35,000?., exclusive of fittings. The comparatively 
small plot of land on which it stands has cost the Club 
52,500?., and the total expenditure may be called in round 
numbei’s 100,000?. The largest apai-tment is the “ Morning- 
room.’’ The “ Library ” is larger than the Drawing-room. 
The enrichments of the ceilings throughout are in carton- 
pierre and papier-mache. The principal furniture is of 
walnut-wood. The Kitchen is one of the successful novelties of 
the building, and will repay a visit. There is even a separate 
cook for chops, steaks, and kidneys, who dedicates his whole 
time and skill to bringing these favourite articles of con¬ 
sumption to the perfection they deserve. The Smoking-room, 
with its balcony commanding a noble prospect of cats and 
chimneys, is the best Club Smoking-room in London, the 
rooms at the Union and Gari’ick, perhaps, excepted. 

The GUARDS’ CLUB, Pall Mall, built 1848-50 (H. Har¬ 
rison, archt.). The Club is restricted to the Officers of the 
Household Troops, as contra-distinguished from the Line, 
The Household Troops are considered to be attendant on the 
sovereign, and are seldom sent abroad but on urgent service. 

WHITE’S. A Tory Club-house, Nos. 37 and 38, St. 
James’s Street; originally White’s Chocolate-house, under 
which name it was established circ. 1698. As a Club it 
dates, I believe, from 1736, when the house ceased to be 
an open chocolate-house, that any one might enter who 
Was prepared to pay for what he had. It was then made 
a private house, for the convenience of the chief frequenters 
of the place, whose annual subscriptions towards its sup¬ 
port were paid to the proprietor, by whom the Club was 
farmed. With reference to the great spirit of gaming Avhich 
prevailed at White’s, the arms of the Club were designed 
by Horace Walpole and George Selwyn. The blazon is 


226 


XXIV.—CLUBS. 


vert (for a card-table), three parolis proper; on a chevron 
sable (for a hazard-table), two rouleaus in saltier, between 
two dice proper; on a canton sable, a white ball (for elec¬ 
tion), argent. The supporters are an old and young knave 
of clubs; the ci’est, an arm out of aii eaiTs coronet shaking 
a dice-box; and the motto, “ Cogit Amor Nummi.” Eound 
the arms is a claret bottle ticket by way of order. A book 
for entering bets is still laid on the table. The Club, 
on June 20th, 1814, gave a ball at Burlington Hoiise to the 
Empei’or of Russia, the King of Prussia, and the allied 
sovereigns then in England, which cost 9849Z. 2s. 6d. Covers 
Avere laid for 2400 people. Three Aveeks after, the Club gave a 
dinner to the Duke of Wellington, Avhich cost 2480^. 10s. 9c?. 

BROOKS’S CLUB, 60, St. James’s Street. A Whig 
Club-house, founded in Pall-mall, 1764, by 27 noblemen and 
gentlemen, including the Duke of Roxbiu’gh, the Duke of 
Portland, the Earl of Strathmore, Mr. CreAve, afterwards 
Lord CreAve, and Mr. C. J. Fox. It Avas originally a gaming 
Club, and Avas fiirmed at first by Almack, but afterAvards by 
Brooks, a Aviue merchant and money-lender, Avho retired 
from tbe Club soon after it AA'as built, and died poor about 
1782. The present house Avas built, at Brooks’s expense 
(from the designs of Henry Holland, architect), and opened 
in 1778. Sheridan aa’RS black-balled at Brooks’s three times 
by George SelAvyn, because his father had been upon the 
stage; and he only got in at last through a ruse of George IV. 
(then Prince of Wales), aaJio detained his advei'sary in con- 
vei-sation in the hall Avhilst the ballot Avas going on. The 
Club is I’estricted to 575 members. Entrance, 9 guineas; 
annual subscription, 11 guineas; tAvo black balls exclude. 
The Club (like White’s) is still managed on the farminr/ 
principle. 

CARLTON CLUB, Pall Mall (S. side). Originally 
a Conservative Club-house, built by Sir Robert Smirke, 
but since rebuilt, 1850-6, and in eA'ery sense improved, 
by his brother, Mr. Sydney Smirke. It presents a noble 
and striking fa 9 ade conspicuous for its polished granite pillars. 
It contains on the ground floor a coffee-room, 92 feet by 
37 feet, and 214 feet high, and 284 feet high in the centre, 
Avhere there is a glazed dome. On the first floor are a draAV- 
ing-room, billiard-room, and a private, or house, dinner-room. 
Above are smoking-rooms and dormitories for seiwauts. The 
exterior is built of Caen stone, except the shafts of the columns 
and pilasters, which are of polished Peterhead gi-anite. The 
facade is of Italian architecture, of tAvo orders: Doric and 


XXIV.—CLUBS. 


227 


Ionic; and each inter-columniation is occupied by an arched 
window, the keystones of which project so as to contribute 
towards the support of the entablature over them. The 
design is founded on the E. front of the Library of St. Mark’s, 
at Venice, by Sansovino and Scamozzi. The means of intro¬ 
ducing polished granite in the exterior architecture is due to 
the machinery for cutting and polishing granite at Aberdeen, 
without the aid of which the expense would have utterly 
precluded the use of polished granite. The chief object 
of the architect in introducing here a coloured material was 
to compensate, in some measure, for the loss of strong light 
and shadow in an elevation facing the N. 

CONSERVATIVE CLUB HOUSE, on the W. side of 
St. James’s Street. Founded, 1840, as a Club of ease to the 
Carlton. Built from the designs of the late George Bassevi 
and Sydney Smirke, 1843-45, on the site of the Thatched 
House Tavern, and opened Feb. 19th, 1845. The total cost 
of building and furnishing was 73,211Z. 4s. 3d, the architects’ 
commission being 3458Z. 6s. The encaustic paintings of the 
interior are by Mr. Sang, and were executed at an expense 
of 2697^. 15s. There ai’e 6 public rooms, viz., a morning and 
evening-room, library, coffee-room, dining-room, and card- 
room. In addition to these there are committee-rooms, 
billiard-rooms, &c. The most striking feature of the house 
is the Hall, coved so as to allow a galleiy to run roimd it, 
and the staircase, both richly ornamented in colour. The 
most stately room is that for evening occupation, extending 
from N. to S. of the building, on the first floor. It is nearly 
100 feet in length, 26 in breadth, and 25 in height, with 
coved ceiling, supported by 18 noble Scagliola Corinthian 
columns. The library occupies nearly the whole of the upper 
part of the N. of the building. The coffee-room, in the 
lower division of the northern portion of the building, is 
of the same proportions as the library. The Club is worked 
by a staff of 50 servants, male and female. The election of 
members is made by the committee, 5 being a quorum, and 
two black balls excluding. 

REFORM CLUB, on the S. side of Pall Mall, between the 
Travellers’ Club and the Carlton Club, was founded by the 
Liberal members of the two Houses of Parliament, about 
the time the Reform Bill was canvassed and carried, 1330-32. 
The Club consists of 1000 members, exclusive of members 
of either House of Parliament. Entrance fee, 25 guineas; 
annual subscription for the first five yeai’S of election, 10^. lOs., 
subsequently, 8^. 8s. The house was built from the designs 


228 


XXIV.—CLUBS. 


of Sir Charles Barry, E.A. The exterior is greatly admired. 
The interior, especially the large squai’e hall covered with 
glass, occupying the centre of the building, is in excellent 
taste. The water supply is from an Artesian well, 360 feet 
deep, sunk at the expense of the Club. The cooking estab¬ 
lishment, when under the late M. Soyer, was excellent, and 
is now very good. 

ATHENJilUM CLUB, Pall Mall. Instituted in 1823, 
by the late Right Hon. J. W. Croker, Sir T. Lawrence, 
Sir P. Chantrey, Mr. Jekyll, &o., “for the Association of 
individuals known for their literaiy or scientific attainments, 
ai’tists of eminence in any class of the Fine Arts, and noble¬ 
men and gentlemen distinguished as liberal patrons of 
Science, Literature, and the Aiiis.” The membei’s are chosen 
by ballot, except that the committee have the power of 
electing yearly, from the list of candidates for admission, a 
limited number of persons “who shall have attained to 
distinguished eminence in Science, Literature, and the Arts, 
or for Public Sexwices the number so elected not to exceed 
nine in each year. The number of ordinaxy xnembers is 
fixed at 1200; eiitrauce fee, 25 guiixeas; yeai’ly subsexiption, 
7 guineas. One black ball in ten excludes. The present 
Club-house (Decimus Bui'ton, architect) was built 1829, and 
opened 8th February, 1830. 

“ The only Club I belong to is the Athenaeum, niiicli consists of tirelve 
hundred members, amongst whom are to be reckoned a large proportion 
of the most eminent persons in the land, in every line—civil, military, 
and ecclesiastical, peers spiritpal and temporal (nipety-live noblemen 
and twelve bishops), commoners, men of the learned professions, those 
connected with Science, the Arts, and Commerce in all its principal 
branches, as well as the distinguished who do not belong to any par¬ 
ticular class. Many of these are to be met with every day, living with 
the same, freedom as in their own houses. For six guineas a-year every 
member has the command of an excellent library, with maps, of the 
daily papers, English and foreign, the principal periodicals, and every 
material for widting, with attendance for whatever is wanted. The 
building is a sox’t of palace, and is kept with the same exactness and 
comfort as a private dwelling. Every member is a master without any 
of the trouble of a master. He can come when he pleases, and stay 
away as long as he pleases, w'ithopt anything going wrong. He has the 
command of regular servants without having to pay or to manage them. 
He can have whatever meal or refreshment he wants, at all hours, and 
served up with the cleanliness and comfort of his owxx house. He orders 
just what he pleases, having no interest to think of but his own. In 
short, it is impossible to suppose a greater degree of liberty in living.” 
— Walker's Original. 


The Library is the best Club Libraiy in London. There la 
a Sinoking-rooni siixce 1860. 


XXIV.—CLUBS. 


229 


UNIVERSITY CLUB HOUSE, Suffolk Street^ and 
Pall Mall East, was built by W. Wilkins, R.A., ahd J. P. 
Gandy, and opened Feb. 13tb, 1826. The members belong 
to the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge. Entrance 
fee, 25 guineas ; annual subscription, 6 guineas. The upper 
story (built for a Smoking-room), is an addition made in 
1862 to Mr. Wilkins’ design. 

OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE CLUB, Pall MaLl. Built 
1838 (Sydney Smirke, A.R.A., architect). Entrance-money, 
25 guineas; annual subscription) 6 guineas. Number of 
membera> 1000. 

UNION CLUB HOUSE, CockspuR STREfeT, and S.W. 
end of Trafalgar Square (Sir Robert Smirke, R.A., archi¬ 
tect). The Club is chiefly composed of merchants, law 5 ’'ers, 
members of parliament, and) as James Smith, who was a 
member, writes, “ of gentlemen at large.” The stock of wine 
in the cellai’S is said to be the largest belonging to any Chib 
in London. Entrance-money, 30 guineas; annual subscription, 
6 guineas. The Smoking-room at the top was built (1852) 
from the designs of Decimus Burton. 

GARRICK CLUB, 5, New King Street, CoveNt Garden, 
named after David Garrick, the actor, and instituted 1831 
“ for the general patronage of the Dratna; for the purpose of 
combining a club on economical principles with the ad¬ 
vantages of a Literary Society; for the formation of a 
Theatrical Library aiid Works on Costume; and also for 
bringing together the patrons of the Drama and gentlemen 
eminent in their respective circles.” A lover of the 
English Drama and stage may spend an hour very profit¬ 
ably in viewing the collection of theatrical portraits) the 
property of the Club, and chiefly collected by the late 
Charles Mathews, the distinguished actor, whose portrait 
by Lonsdale, is over the fire-place in the drawing-room. 
Observe.—Male Portraits. — Nat Lee (curious); Doggett; 
Quin; Foote; Henderson, by Gainsborough; elder Colman, 
after NiV Joshua; head of Garrick, by Zoffany; Macklin, 
by Opie; J. P. Kemble, drawing by Law mice; Moody; 
Elliston, drawing by Ilarloioe ; Bannister, by Russell; Tom 
Sheridan; King, by R. Wilson, the landscape painter; 
Emery; elder Dibdin; Mr. Powel andNamily, by i2. Wilson, 
Liston, by Clint (good). Female Portraits. —Nell Gwynne (a 
namby-pamby face, not genuine); Mrs. Oldfield (half-length), 
by Kneller ; Mrs. Bracegirdle (three-quartci*); Mrs. Pritchard 


230 


XXIV.—CLUBS. 


(half-length); Mrs. Cibber (also a characteristic drawing of 
her ); Peg Woffington, by Mercier, (also a miniature three- 
quarter); Mrs. Abington, as Lady Bab, by Hickey (small 
full-length); Mrs. Siddons, by Harlowe j Mrs. Yates ; 
Mrs. Billington; Miss O’Neil, by Joseph (full length); Nancy 
Dawson, dancing a hornpipe; Mrs. Siddons, drawing by 
Lawrence; Mrs. Inchbald, by Harlowe; Miss Stephens; 
Mrs. Robinson, after Sir Joshua. Theatrical Subjects.' — 
Joseph Harris, as Cardinal Wolsey (the Strawberry Hill 
picture; Harris was one of Sir W. Davenant’s players, and 
is commended by Downes for his excellence in this 
character); Anthony Leigh, as the Spanish Friar (half-length); 
Colley Cibber, as Lord Foppington, by Gi'isoni (very good); 
Giaffin and Johnson, in The Alchemist, by P. Van Bleeck (ex¬ 
cellent) ; School for Scandal (the Sci’een Scene), as originally 
cast; Mrs. Pritchard, as Lady Macbeth, by Zoffany ; Mr. and 
Mrs. Barry, in Hamlet; Rich,in 1753, as Harlequin; Garrick, 
as Richard III., by the elder Morland ; King, as Touchstone, 
by Zoffany (small full-length); Weston, as Billy Button, by 
Zoffany; King, and Mr. and Mrs. Baddeley, in The Clandestine 
Marriage, by Zoffany (fine); Moody and Parsons, in the Com¬ 
mittee, by Vandergucht; Garrick and Mrs. Cibber, hj Zoffany ; 
Macklin, as Sir Pertinax Macsycophant, by He Wilde j Love, 
Law, and Physic (Mathews, Liston, Blanchard, and Emery), by 
Clint (fine); Mathews, as Monsieur Mallet, by Clint; Mathews 
in five characters, hy Harlowe; Farren, Farley, and Jones, in 
The Clandestine Marriage, by Clint; C. Kemble and Fawcett, 
in Charles II., by Clint; Munden, E. Knight, Mrs. Orger, and 
Miss Cubitt, in Lock and Key, by Clint (fine); Powell, Bensley, 
and Smith, by Mortimer; Dowton, in The Mayor of Garratt; 
busts, by Mrs. Siddons —of Herself and Brother. Bust of 
Shakespeare discovered (bricked up) in pulling down (1848) 
old Lincoln’s Inn Fields Theatre. The pictures are on view 
every Wednesday (except in September), between 11 and 3, 
and the only mode of seeing them is the personal introduc¬ 
tion of a member. The walls of the smoking-room (one 
of the best in London) were painted by Clarkson Stanfield, 
David Roberts, and Louis Haghe. 

WHITTINGTON CLUB and METROPOLITAN ATHE¬ 
NAEUM, Nokfolk St,, Strand. A cheap club for clerks and 
other men and women, founded (1847) with a view to throw 
open to the poorer classes those increased physical comforts, 
and facilities for moral and intellectual education, which are 
the most atti’active characteristics of modeim London life, 
which associated numbers can command. The dining and 


XXV.—THE CITY AND THE CITIZENS. 23 L 

refreshment rooms (where members may obtain dinner and 
refreshments at prices calculated merely to cover expenses, 
and free of gratuities to waiters), reading, news, chess, and 
smoking rooms, are open from eight in the morning till 
night. There is a large lecture hall, serving also for music 
and dancing. 

Classes are established for the study and practice of lan¬ 
guages, chemistry, vocal music, elocution, mathematics, his¬ 
toric and dramatic literature, discussion, fencing, dancing, &e. 


XXV.-THE CITY AND THE CITIZENS. 

The entire civil government of the City of London, within 
the walls and liberties, is vested, by successive charters of 
English sovereigns, in one Corporation, or body of citizens; 
confirmed for the last time by a charter passed in the 23rd 
of George II. As then settled, the corporation consists of 
the Lord Mayor, 26 aldermen (including the Lord Mayor), 

2 sheriffs for London and Middlesex conjointly, the common 
councilmen of the several wai’ds, 206 in number, and a livery ; 
assisted by a recorder, chamberlain, common serjeant, 
comptroller, remembrancer, town-clerk, &c. The number of 
liverymen is about 10,000, and of freemen above 20,000. 

The City is divided into 26 Wards bearing the same 
relation to the City that the Hundred anciently did to 
the Shix’e, each represented by an alderman, and divided 
into precincts, each precinct returning one common council¬ 
man. The common councilmen and Ward officers ai’o 
elected annually, and the meetings of the aldermen and 
common council are called Wardmotes. 

The senior alderman represents Bridge-Ward Without, and 
is popularly known as “ the Father of the City.” The aider- 
men are chosen by such householders as are freemen and 
pay an annual rent of lOZ .; each alderman is elected for life. 
The civic offices are chiefly filled by second-class citizens in 
point of station — the principal bankers and merchants 
uniformly declining to fill them, and paying, at times, heavy 
fines to be exempted from serving. 

The City arms are the sword of St. Paul and the cross of j 
St. George. The City was commonly called Cockaigne, and 
the name Cockney—rone cockered and spoilt—is generally 
applied to people born within the sound of the bells of the 



232 


XXV.—THE CITY. 


church of St. Maiy-le-Bow, in Cheapside. When a female 
Cockney was informed that barley did not grow, but that 
it was spun by housewives in the country—“I knew as 
much,” said the Cockney, “for one may see the threads 
hanging out at the ends thereof.” Minsheu, who com- 
piled a valuable dictionary of the English language in 
the reign of James I., has a still older and odder mistake. 
“ Cockney,” he says, “ is applied only to one born within the 
sound of Bow bells, i.e. within the City of London, which 
term came first out of this tale, that a citizen’s son riding 
with his father out of Loudon into the country, and being a 
novice, and merely ignorant how corn or cattle increased, 
asked, when he heard a horse neigh, ‘ what the horse did ? ’ 
his father answered, ‘the horse doth neigh;’ riding farther he 
heard a cock crow, and said, ‘ doth the cock neigh too 1 ’ and 
therefore. Cockney by inversion thus, incock q. incoctus, i.e., 
raw or unripe in countrymen’s affairs.” Every person of full 
age and not subject to any legal incapacity may become a 
freeman of the City of London on the payment of 6?. 5s. id. 

MANSION’-HOUSE, between Cheapside, Lombard-street, 
and King William-street, the residence of the Lord Mayor 
during his term of office, was built 1739-41, from the designs 
of George Dance, the City surveyor. Lord Burlington sent a 
design by Palladio, which was rejected by the City on the in¬ 
quiry of a Common Councilman; “Who was Palladio?—was he 
a freeman of the city, and was he not a Roman Catholic ? ” It 
' is said to have cost 71,000Z. The principal room is the 
Egyptian Hall, so called because in its original construction 
it exactly corresponded with the Egyptian Hall described 
by Vitruvius. In this Hall, on Easter Monday, the Lord 
Mayor gives a great banquet and ball to 300 or 350 per¬ 
sons. It is decorated with statues by modern British artists, 
on which 8000Z. are said to have been laid out—Caractacus 
and Egeria, by Foley; Genius and the Morning Star, by 
Bailey ; Comus, by Lough; and Griselda, by Marshall. 

The Lord Mayor of London is chosen every 29th of 
September, from the aldermen below the chair, who have 
served the office of sheriff; and is installed in office every 
9th of Koveniber, when “The Show” or procession 
between London and Westminster takes place. This, 
though pared of its former pomp, is a sight worth 
seeing. The procession starts from Guildhall about noon, 
proceeds along Cheapside, Ludgate Hill, the Strand, 
to Westminster Hall, and returns the same way. The 
procession of gilt barges up the river ceased iu 1858. 


XXV.—MANSION-HOUSE. 


233 


The carriage in which the Lord Mayor rides on this, 
and on all state occasions throughout his mayoralty, is 
a large lumbering carved and gilt coach, painted and de¬ 
signed by Cipriani, in 1757, and kept in a yard in White 
Cross-street, Cripplegate. Its original cost was 1065?. Ss.; 
and it is said, that an expenditure of upwards of 100?. is 
every year incurred to keep it in repair. Here sits the chief 
magistmte in his red cloak, and collar of SS., with his chap¬ 
lain, and his sword and mace-bearei's. The sword-bearer 
carries the sword in the pearl scabbard, presented to the 
corporation by Queen Elizabeth upon opening the Royal Ex¬ 
change, and the mace-bearer the great gold mace given to the 
City by Charles I. He is sworn in at Westminster, in the 
morning of the 9th of November, before one of the Barons of 
the Exchequer, and then returns to preside at the great 
mayoralty dinner in Guildhall. The annual salary of the 
Lord Mayor is 8000?.; and the annual income of the corpora¬ 
tion of London, about 400,000?., arising from—Coal* and 
Corn Dues ; Rents and Quit Rents ; Markets ; Tolls on the * 
Carts and Waggons of non-freemen (contracted for at 5810?. 
a-year) ; Brokers’ Rents and Fines ; Admissions to the 
Freedom of the City; Renewing Fines for Leases. The 
Lord Mayor generall}’’ spends more than his income, but 
more than 25 per cent, of the Corporation income is paid 
away in salaries. Thus the Slace-bearer and Sword-bearer 
each receive 550?. a-year. The administration of justice at 
the Central Criminal Court in the Old Bailey costs about 
12,182?. a-year; the City Police, about 10,118?. a-year; New¬ 
gate, about 9223?. a-year; the House of Correction, about 
7602?. a-year; the Debtors’ Prison, about 4955?. a-ycar. 
The Conservancy of the Thames and Medway is entrusted 
to the Lord Mayor, and six other members of the Cor¬ 
poration, jointly, with seven membei’s appointed by Govern¬ 
ment. The Lord Mayor, as the chief magistrate of the 
City, has the right of precedence in the City before all 
the Royal Family; a right disputed in St. Paul’s Cathedi'al 
by Geoi’ge IV., when Prince of Wales, but maintained by Sir 
James Shaw, the Lord Mayor, and confirmed at the same 
time by King George III. At tlie Sovereign’s death he takes 
his seat at the Privy Council, and signs before any other 
subject. The entire City is placed in his custody, and 
it is usual to close Temple Bar at the approach of the 
Sovereign, not in order to exclude her, but in order to 
admit her in form. 

* 1.3^?. a ton is paid on all coals sold in Uondon, within the range of the ^ 
Metropolitan police. 


234 XXV.—GUILDHALL—LORD MAYOR’s DINNER. 

The GUILDHALL of the City of London is at the foot of 
King Street, Cheapside, in the ward of Cheap, and was first 
built in 1411 (12th of Henry IV.), prior to which time the 
Courts were held in Aldermanbury. Of the original building 
there is nothing left but the stone and mortar of the walls ; 
two windows; and a crypt, about half of the length of the 
I)resent Hall. The front towards King-street was seriously 
injured in the Great Fire, and the present mongrel sub¬ 
stitute erected in 1789, from the designs of the younger 
Dance. It is to be I'eplaced by a more correct front. In 
1865, the building was repaired, and a fine open-work 
gothic I’oof of wood was added to the Hall, at a cost 
of near 3000/. The Great Hall, 153 feet long, 50 feet 
broad, and 55 high, used for public meetings of the 
citizens, elections, &c., contains a few monuments of very 
oi'dinary character. Observe. —Pyramidical monument to the 
great Lord Chatham, by the elder Bacon; the inscription 
by Burke. Monument to William Pitt, by Biibh ; the 
inscription by Canning. Monument to Nelson, by Smith ; 
the inscription by Sheridan. Monument to the Duke of 
Wellington has replaced that to Lord Mayor Beckford 
(the father of the author of Vathek) inscribed with his 
intended speech (which was never spoken) to King George 
III., at a period of great excitement. The statues of Edward 
VI.,Queen Elizabeth, and Charles L, at the upper or E. end of 
the Hall came from the old chapel called Guildhall Chapel, 
pulled down in 1822. The two giants in the Hall—some¬ 
times carried in the pageant of a Lord Mayor’s Day—are 
known as Gog and Magog, though antiquaries differ about 
their proper appellation, some calling them Colbrand and 
Brandamore, others Corinous and Gogmagog. They were 
carved by Richard Saundei's, and set up in the Hall in 1708. 
In the Common Council Chamber, abutting from the Hall, 
obsei've : —Standing statue of George III. (Chavtrey's first 
statue); fine bust, by the same artist, of Granville Sharp; 
bust of Lord Nelson, by 3Irs. Darner ; The Siege of Gibraltar, 
by Copley, R.A. (father of Lord Lyndhurst); Death of Wat 
Tyler, by Northcote, R.A.; whole-length of Queen Anne, by 
Closterman ; Poi'traits of Judges (Sir Matthew Hale and 
others) who sat at Clifford’s Inn after the Great Fire, 
and arranged all the differences between landlord and 
tenant during the great business of rebuilding, by Michael 
Wrifjht. A public dinner is given in this Hall, every 9th of 
November, by the new Lord Mayor for the coming year. 
The Hall on this occasion is divided into two distinct but 
not equal portions. The upper end or dais is called the 


XXV.—TEMPLE BAR. 


235 


Hustings (from an old Court of that name); the lower the 
Body of the Hall. Her Majesty’s ministers and the great 
Law officers of the Crown invai'iably attend this dinner. At 
the upper end or dais the courses are all hot; at the lower 
end only the turtle. The scene is well worth seeing—the 
loving-cup and the barons of beef carrying the mind back to 
media3val times and manners. The following' is a Bill of 
Fare:— 


P50 Tureens of Real Tur- j 
tie, containing 5 ] 
pints each. 

200 Bottles of Sherbet. 

6 Dishes of Fish. 

30 Entries. 

4 Boiled Turkeys and i 
Oysters. 

60 Roast Pullets. 

60 Dishes of Fowls. 

46 Ditto of Capons. 

6 Do. of Capt. White’s 
Selim’s true India 
Curries. 

50 French Pies. 

60 Pigeon Pies. 

53 Hams ornamented. 

43 Tongues. [Lamb. 

2 Quarters of Ilouse- 

2 Barons of Beef. 

3 Rounds of Beef. 

2 Stewed Rumps of 
Beef. 


13 Sirloins, Rumps,! 

and Ribs of Beef. | 
6 Dishes of Asparagus I 
60 Ditto of Mashed and I 
other Potatoes. | 
44 Ditto of Shell Fish. | 
4 Ditto of Prawns. 

140 Jellies. 

.50 Blancmanges. 

40 Dishes of Tarts,: 

creamed. [Pastry.! 
40 Dishes of Almond 
30 Ditto of Orange and ' 
other Tourtes. I 
20 Chantilly Baskets. I 
60 Dishes of Mince I’ies 
56 Salads. 

THE REMOVES. 

80 Roast Turkeys. 

6 Leverets. 

80 Pheasants. 

24 Geese. 


40 Dishes of Partridges 

15 Dishes ofWildFowl 
2 Pea Fowls. 

DESSERT. 

100 Pine Apples, fi'om 
2 to 3 lbs. each. 

*200 Dishes of Hot-house 
Grapes. 

250 Ice Creams. 

50 Dishes of Apples. 

100 Ditto of Pears. 

60 Ornamented Savoy 
Cakes. 

75 Plates of Walnuts. 

80 Ditto of dried Fruit 
and Preserves. 

50 Ditto of Preserved 
Ginger. 

60 Ditto of Rout Cakes 
and Chips. 

46 Ditto of Brandy 
Cherries. 


The cost of the dinner is about 2200Z., of which the Lord 
Mayor pays 1000?., and the two Sheriffs 5501. each. The 
" Guildhall or City of Loudon Library ” contains a large 
collection of early printed plays and pageants, &c., connected 
with the City; antiquities, &c., discovered in making the 
excavations for the New Royal Exchange; and in an appro¬ 
priate case, Shakspeare’s own signature, attached to a deed of 
conveyance, for which the Corporation of London gave, at a 
public sale, the sum of 147?. 

The Court of Aldermen holds its meetings in Guildhall. 


TEMPLE BAR, A gateway of Portland stone, separating 
the Strand from Fleet-street, and the City from the shire; built 
by Wren (1670). On the E. side, in niches, are statues of 
Queen Elizabeth and James I., and on the W. side, those of 
Charles I. and Charles II,, all by John Bushnell (d, 1701). 
The gates are invariably closed by the City authorities when¬ 
ever the sovereign has occasion to enter the City, and at 
no other time. The visit of the sovereign is, indeed, a 






236 


XXV—THE MONUMENT. 


rare occurrence—confined to a thanksgiving in St. Paul’s 
for some important victory, or the opening of a public build¬ 
ing like the New Royal Exchange. A herald sounds a 
trumpet before the gate—another herald knocks—a parley 
ensues—the gates are then thrown open, and the Lord Mayor 
for the time being makes over the sword of the City to 
the sovereign, who graciously returns it to the Mayor. The 
mangled remains of Sir Thomas Armstrong, conceimed in 
the Rye House Plot, the head and quarters of Sir AVilliam 
Perkins and Sir John Friend, implicated in the attempt to 
assassinate William III., were among the early ornaments of 
the present Bar. The last ornaments of this character on 
the Bar were the heads of the victims of the fatal “‘4.5.” 
“ I have been this morning at the Tower,” Walpole writes to 
Montagu, Aug. 16th, 1746, “ and passed under the new heads 
at Temple Bar, where people make a trade of letting spying- 
glasses at a half-penny a look.” “ I remember,” said Johnson, 
“ once being with Goldsmith in Westminster Abbey. While 
he surveyed Poets’ Corner, I said to him :— 

‘ Forsitan et nostrara liomen misccbitiir istis.’ 

When we got to the Temple Bar he stopped me, pointed to the 
heads upon it, and slily whispered me : 

‘ Forsitan et nostrum nomen miscebitur istis.’ ” 

Johnson was a Jacobite at heart. The last heads which 
remained on the Bar were those of Fletcher and Townlej’- 
The interior of the Bar is leased from the City, by Messrs. 
Child, the bankers, as a repository for the ledgers and cash 
books of their house. It seems not improbable that Avhen 
the new Law Courts (see Index) are built, Temple Bar may 
also be taken down, and rebuilt, so as to form a foot-bridge 
over the great thoroughfare of Fieet-sti’eet. 

The MONUMENT, on Fish Street Hill, is a fluted 
column of the Doric order, erected to commemorate the 
Great Fire of London (2—7 Sept. 1666). The design was 
made by Sir Christopher Wren ; the bas-relief on the pedi¬ 
ment carved by Caius Gabriel Cibber, the father of Colley 
Cibber; the four dragons at the four angles by Edward 
Pierce, for which he had, as Walpole tells us, 50 guineas 
a-piece; the Latin inscriptions, written by Dr. Gale, Dean of 
York; and the whole structure erected in six years (1671-77), 
for the sum of 13,700Z. It is 202 feet high, and stand.s 
at a distance of 202 feet from the house in Pudding-lane, 
in which the fire originated. It is hollow,' and contains 


^CXY.—THE CITY COMPANIES. 


237 


a staircase of 345 steps. Admittance from 9 till dai’k ; 
charge, Scl. each person. The nrn on the top is 42 feet high. 
Wren’s first design was a pillar invested by flames, sur¬ 
mounted by a phoenix; but, upon second thoughts,” he 
says, << I rejected it, because it will be costly, not easily 
understood at that height, and worse understood at a 
distance, and lastly dangerous, by reason of the sail the 
spread wings will carry in the wind.” He then designed a 
statue of Charles II,, and showed it to that King for his 
•approbation; but Charles, ‘^not that his Majesty,” says 
Wren, disliked a statue, was pleased to think a large ball 
of metal, gilt, would be naore agreeable; ” and the present 
vase of flames was in consequence adopted. The following 
inscription was at one time to be read round the plinth 
beginning at the west:— 

[w.]<‘TIII3 pillar was set VP IN PERPETVALL REMEMRRANCE OF THAT 
MOST DREADFUL BURNING OP THIS PROTESTANT [s.] CITY, BEGUN 
AND CARRYED ON BY YE TREACHERY AND MALICE OF YE POPISH 
FACTIO, IN Y'E BEGINNING OF SEPTEM. IN YE YEAR OF [e.J OUR 
LORD 1666, IN ORDER TO YE CARRYING ON THEIR HORRID PLOTT 
FOR EXTIRPATING [n.] YE PROTESTANT RELIGION AND OLD 
ENGLISH LIBERTY, AND Y"E INTRODUCING POPERY AND SLAVERY.” 

And the inscription on the north side concluded as follows :— 

“SED FVROR PAPISTICVS QVI TAM DIRA PATRAVIT NONDUM 
RESTTNGVITYR.” 

These offensive paragraphs formed no part of the original 
inscription, but were added in 1681, by order of the Court 
of Aldermen, when Titus Oates and his plot had filled the 
City with a fear and horror of the Papists. They were 
obliterated in the reign of James II., re-cut deeper than 
before in the reign of William III., and finally erased (by an 
Act of Common Council) Jan. 26th, 1831. 

Six persons have thrown themselves off the Monument: 
Green, a weaver, 1750 ; Cradock, a baker, 1788 ; Levi, a Jew, 
1810 ; Moyse, the daughter of a baker, 1839; a boy, named 
Hawes, Oct., 1839 ; and a girl of 17, in 1842. This kind of 
death becoming popular, it was deemed advisable to encage 
and disfigure the Monument as Ave now see it. Goldsmith, 
when in destitute circumstances in London, filled for a short 
time the situation of shopman to a chemist, residing at the 
corner of Monument or Bell Yard, on Fish-street-hill. 

The CITY COMPANIES of importance include The 
Twelve Great Companies,” so called, and about six others 
though the total number of City Companies still existing is 
82; forty of whom, however, are without halls. Many, 
of these arc very rich, but very feAV exercise any of their 


S38 XXV.—mercers’ hall—grocers’ hall. 


old privileges. The following are the Halls of the Twelve 
Great Companies, arranged in the order of precedence; 
and such was the importance attached to the Twelve, 
that it was formerly necessary for a citizen, if a mem¬ 
ber of any other than the Twelve Great Companies, to 
quit his own Company on becoming an alderman, and enter 
into one of the Twelve. The precedence of the twelve is 
thought to have originated in the selection of ticelve citizens 
to attend the Lord Mayor in his office of Butler at the 
Coronation Feast. 

1. MERCERS’ HALL and CHAPEL, Cheapside, between 
Ironmonger-lane and Old Jewry. The front, towards 
Cheapside, is a characteristic specimen of the enriched 
decoration employed in Loudon immediately after the Great 
Fire. Observe .—Portrait of Dean Colet, founder of St. Paul’s 
School (his father was a mercer, and Colet left the manage¬ 
ment of the school to the Mercers’ Company); portrait of 
Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of the Royal Exchange and a 
member of the Mercers’ Company. Another eminent 
member was Whittington, four times Lord Mayor of London. 
Thomas Becket, the archbishop and saint, was born in a 
house on the site of the Mercers’ Chapel, originally an hos¬ 
pital of St. Thomas of Aeon or Acars, founded by the 
sister of Becket, and at the dissolution of I'eligious houses 
bought by the Mercers and called The Mercers’ Chapel. 
Guy, the bookseller and founder of the hospital which beare 
his name, was bound apprentice to a bookseller. Sept. 2nd 
1660, 'Gn the porch of Mercei's’ Chapel.” That part of 
Cheapside adjoining the Mercers’ Chapel was originally 
called the Mercery. Queen Elizabeth was free of the 
Mercers’ Company,—King James I. was a Cloth worker. 
The usual entrance to the Hall is in Ironmonger-lane. 

2. GROCERS’ HALL, in the Poultry, next Ko. 35. The 
Company was incorporated by Edward III., in 1345, under 
the title of “ The Wardens and Commonalty of the Mystery 
of the Grocers of the City of London.” They had previously 
existed under the primitive name of Pepperers, and were 
subsequently united with the Apothecaries. The first Hall 
of the Grocers of which we have any account was built in 1427. 
Their second was built after the Great Fire; and their third, 
the present edifice (Thomas Leverton, architect), was com¬ 
menced in 1798, and opened 1802. Their patron saint is 
St. Anthony. The Committee of the House of Commons, 
for re.sisting Charles I.’s attempt to seize the five members, 
met here in Jan. 1647. The City dinners to the Long Parlia- 


XXV.—drapers’ hall. 


239 


ment were given in Groeers’ Hall, and here the Governors and 
Company of tlie Bank of England hold their Courts from 
the establishment of the Bank in 1694 to 1734. Sir Philip 
Sidney was free of the Grocers’ Company, and the Grocers 
rode in procession at his funeral. Abel Drugger, the 
Tobacco Man in Ben Jonson’s Alchemist, is “free of the 
Grocers.” The most distinguished warden in the Company’s 
list is Sir John Cutler, the penurious Cutler of the poet Pope, 
to whom the second Duke of Buckingham of the Villiers 
family made his memorable reply :— 

“ Ilis Grace’s fate sage Cutler could foresee, 

And veil (he thought) advised him—‘ Live like me.’ 

As veil his Grace replied—' Like you, Sir John? 

That I can do vhen all I have is gone.’ ”— Pope. 

A portrait and statue of Cutler adorn the Hall of the Com¬ 
pany, who was in reality a liberal man and benefactor,* not 
only to his own Company but to various charities, and to 
science by founding a Gresham Lecturaship. 

3. DRAPERS’ HALL and GARDENS, Throgmorton 
Street, City. The Company was incorporated in 1439, and 
settled in Throgmorton-street in 1541, on the attainder of 
Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, whose house and garden- 
ground they acquired by purchase of Henry VIII. 

“ This house being finished, and having some reasonable plot of ground 
left for a garden, he[Cromvell] caused the pales of the gardeiis adjoining 
to the north part thereof, on a sudden to he taken dovn; tventy-tvo feet 
to be measured forth right into the north of every man’s ground; a line 
there to be di’avu, a trench to be cast, a foundation laid, and a higli brick 
vail to be built. My father had a garden there, and a house standing 
close to his south pale; this house they loosed from the ground, and bare 
upon rollers into my father’s garden tventy-tvo feet, ere my father heard 
thereof; no varning vas given him, nor other ansver, vhen he spake to 
the surveyors of that vork, but that their master. Sir Thomas, com¬ 
manded them so to do. No man durst go to argue the matter, but each 
man lost his land, and my father paid his vhole rent, vhich vas 65. Qd. 
the year for that half vhich was left.”— Stow, p. 68. 

Cromwell’s bouse was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666; 
and the new Hall of the Company was erected in the suc¬ 
ceeding year from the designs of Jarman, architect of the 
second Royal Exchange. This is the present Hall—the 
street ornaments were added by the brothers Adam. 
Draperc’-gardens extended northwards as far as London Wall, 
and must have commanded formerly a fine view of Highgate 
and the adjoining heights. Ward commends them in his 
“ London Spy ” as a fashionable promenade “ an hour before 

* See Account of the Company of Grocers, by John Eenjamin Heath 
Esq., 1854. 


240 XXV.—FISHMONGERS^ HALL—GOLDSMITHS^ HALL. 


dinner time.” Observe. —Portrait by Sir William Beechey of 
Admiral Lord Nelson, and a curious picture, attributed to 
Zucchero, and engraved by Bartolozzi, of Mary, Queen of 
Scots, and her son, James I., when four years old. 

4. FISHMONGERS’ HALL, at the north foot of London 
Bridge, erected 1831, on the site of the old Hall built after 
the Great Fire by Jarman, the City surveyor. The earliest 
extant charter of the Company is a patent of the 37th of 
Edw. III.; while the acting charter of incorporation is dated 
2nd of James I. The London Fishmongers were divided 
formerly into two distinct classes, “ Stock-fishmongers ” and 
“ Salt-fishmongers.” Then Thames-sti’eet was known as 

Stock-Fishmonger-row,” and the old Fish-market of London 
was above bridge,” in what is now called Old Fish-street- 
hill, in the ward of Queenhithe, not as now, “ below bridge,” 
in Thames-street, in the ward of Billingsgate. The Company 
is divided into liverymen (about 350 in number), and free¬ 
men (about 1000). The ruling body consists of 34—the 
prime warden, 5 wardens, and 28 assistants. The freedom is 
obtained by patrimony, servitude, redemption (for defective 
service), or gift. The purchase-money of the freedom is 105/. 
Eminent Members. —Sir William Wahvorth, Avho slew Wat 
Tyler; Isaac Pennington, the turbulent Lord Mayor of the Civil 
War under Chax’les I.; Dogget, the comedian and whig, who 
bequeathed a sum of money for the purchase of a “ coat and 
badge ” to be rowed for every 1st of August from the S^van 
at London Bridge to the Swan at Chelsea, in remembrance 
of George I.’s accession to the thvone. Observe. —A funeral 
pall or heai'se-cloth of the age of Henry VIII., very fine, and 
carefully engi-aved by Shaw ; original drawing of a portion 
of the pageai;t exhibited by the Fishmongers’ Company, 
Oct. 29th, 1616, on the occasion of Sir John Leman, a 
member of the Company, entering on the office of Lord 
Mayor of the City of London; statue of Sir William Wal¬ 
worth, by Edward Pierce; portx’aits of William III. and 
Queen, by Murray ; George II. and Queen, by Shaclieton; 
Duke of Kent, by Beechey ; Earl St. Vincent (the Admiral), 
by Beechey ; and Queen Victoria, by Herbert Smith. 

_ 5. GOLDSMITHS’ HALL, Foster Lane, CHEArsiDE, be- 
hind the General Post Ofiice, built by Philip Hardwick, R.A., 
and opened with a splendid banquet, July 15th, 1835. The 
Goldsmiths existed as a guild from a very early period, but 
were not incorporated before 1327, the 1st of EdAvard III. 
Henry Fitz-Ahvin, the first Mayor of London, and Avho con¬ 
tinued Mayor for upwards of 24 years, Avas a goldsmith of the 


XXV.—skinners’ hall. 


241 


guild. The Goldsmiths’ Company possess the privilege of 
assaying and stamping all articles of gold and silver manu¬ 
facture, pumuant to acts 12 Geo, II. c. 26, 24 Geo. III. c. 53, 
38 Geo, III. c. 59, and 8 Viet. c. 22. The assays in one day 
are about 150, and are conducted as follows :—They sci'ape a 
portion from every piece of plate manufactured, and send it 
to their assay master. If found true to the standard quan¬ 
tities, the articles are passed; if what is called of “ deceitful 
work,” they are destroyed. These standard scrapings are 
afterwards melted down and assayed by the Company, to 
whom they belong. This last assay is a sort of “pix” by the 
Company on the practice of its assayers. The Hall mark, 
stamped on the several articles assayed, consists of the 
Sovereign’s head, the royal lion, the leopai’d of the old royal 
arms of England, and the letter in the alphabet which marks 
the year of the Sovereign’s reign when the assay was made. 
The allowance to the Company is 2^ per cent,, and the 
receipts for stamping are paid over to the Inland Revenue 
Office. Observe .—The exterior of the Hall itself, a noble 
specimen of Mr. Haixhvick’s abilities—bold and well-propor¬ 
tioned in every part. On the staircase, full-length portraits 
of George lY., by Nortlicote; William IV., by Shee; George 
III., and his Queen, by Ramsay. In the Livery Tea Room, 
a Conversation-piece, by Hudson (Sir Joshua Reynolds’s 
master). In the Committee Room, the original portrait, by 
Jansen, of a liveryman of the Company, the celebi’ated Sir 
Hugh Middelton, who brought the New River to London : 
portrait of Sir Martin Bowes, with the cup he bequeathed to 
the Goldsmiths’ Company, standing on the table before him; 
(Queen Elizabeth is said to have drunk out of this cup at 
her coronation; it is still preserved) : Roman altar, exhi¬ 
biting a full-length figure of Apollo, in relief, found in 
digging the foundations for the present Hall; full-length 
porti'aits of Queen Victoria, by Hayter; Queen Adelaide, 
by Shee; Prince Albert, by Smith; and marble busts, by 
Chantrey, of George III., George IV., and William IV. 

6. SKINNERS’ HALL, Dowgate Hill. The Company 
was incorporated in 1327, and the government vested in a 
master, 4 wardens, and 60 assistants, with a livery of 137 
members. The Hall was destroyed in the Great Fire, and 
immediately rebuilt. The present front was added by an 
architect of the name of Jupp, about 1808. The mode of 
electing a master is curious. A cap of maintenance is carried 
into the Hall in great state, and is tried on by the old 
master, who announces that it will not fit him. Ho then 

R 


242 


XXV.—MERCHANT TAILORS’ HALL. 


passes it on to be tried by several next him. Two or three 
more misfits occur, till at last the cap is handed to the 
intended new master, for whom it was made. The wardens 
are elected in the same manner. The gowns of the livery^ 
men were faced, in former times, with budge. Budge-roio, 
in Watling-street, was so called of budge-fur, and of the 
skinners dwelling there. Observe. —Portrait of Sir Andrew 
Judd, Lord Mayor of London in 1561, and founder of the 
large and excellent school at Tunbridge, of which the 
Skinners' Company have the patronage and supervision. 

7. MERCHANT TAILORS’ HALL, in Threadneedle 
Street, a little beyond Finch-lane, but concealed from the 
street by an ornamental row of merchants’ houses. Company 
incorporated 1466. It has the honour to enumerate among 
its members several of the Kings of England and many of 
the chief nobility. The Hall was built, after the Great Fire, 
, by Jarman, the City architect, and is the largest of the Com¬ 
panies’ Halls. The Merchant Tailors’ is the gi’eat Tory Com¬ 
pany, as the Fishmongers’ is the great Whig Company. Here, 
in 1835, a grand dinner was given to Sir Robert Peel, at which 
the whole body of Conservative Members of the House of 
Commons were present, and Sir Robert announced the new 
principles of his party; and here, inl851, a dinner was given to 
Lord Stanley, at which 200 Members of the House of Commons 
were present, and Lord Stanley explained the prospects of 
the Protectionist party. A few portraits deserve inspection. 
Observe. —Head of Henry VIII., by Paris Bordone ; head of 
Charles I.; three-quarter portrait of Charles II .; full-length 
of Charles II.; full-length of James II.; full-length of 
William III.; full-length of Queen Anne; full-lengths of 
Geoi’ge III. and his Queen, by Ramsay (same as at Gold¬ 
smiths’ Hall); full-length of the late Duke of York, by Sir 
Thomas Lawrence; full-length, seated, of Lord Chancellor 
Eldon, by Briggs ; full-length of the Duke of Wellington, by 
Wilkie (with a horse by his side, very spirited but not very 
like); three-quarter of Mr, Pitt, by Hoppner. Also among 
the following portraits of old officers of the Company 
(artists unknown), Sir Thomas White, master, 1561, founder 
of St. John’s College, Oxford, Stow, the chronicler, and 
Speed, the historian, were Merchant Tailors, Mode of 
Admission. —Order from the master; for the master’s address, 
apply to the clerk, at his office in the Hall. When Dr, South 
was appointed Chaplain to this Company, he took for the 
text of his inauguration sermon, A remnant of all shall be 
saved.” 


XXV.—vintners’ hall. 


243 


8. HABERDASHERS' HALL, Staining Lane end, 
Cheapside, behind the Post-office, the Hall of the Haber¬ 
dashers, the eighth on the list of the Twelve Gre^t Com¬ 
panies. The Hall was destroyed in the Great Fire, and 
rebuilt, it is said, by Wren. It was again rebuilt, 1855, 
The Hall contains a miscellaneous cuilection of portraits, 
but not one of any consequence or merit. The Haber¬ 
dashers were originally called Hurrers and Milanera, and 
were incorporated 26th of Henry VI. 

9. SALTERS’ HALL, Oxford Court, St. Swithin’s Lane, 
the Hall of the Master, Wardens, and Commonalty of the 
Art or Mystery of Salters. The pi’esent Hall was built by 
Henry Can*, architect, and opened 1827. Oxford-court, in 
which the Hall is situated, was so called from John de Vere, 
the sixteenth Earl of Oxford of that name, who died in 1562, 
and Avas originally the site of the inn or hostel of the Priors 
of Tortington, in Sussex. Empsoii and Dudley, notorious 
as the unscrupulous instruments of Henry VII.’s avarice in 
the later and more unpopular j^ears of his reign, lived in 
AValbrook, in two fair houses,” with dooi-s leading into the 
garden of the Prior of Tortington (now Salters’-garden). 

Here they met,” says Stow, “ and consqlted of matters at 
their pleasures.” Observe .—Portrait of Adrian Charpentier, 
painter of the clever and only good portrait of Roubiliac, 
the sculptor. 

10. IRONMONGERS’ HALL, on the north side of 
Fenchurch Street. The present Hall was erected by 
Thomas Holden, ai’chitect, Avhose name, with the date 1748, 
appears on the front. The Ironmougex-s were incorporated 
for the first time in 1464 :—3rd of Edward IV. Observe .—• 
Portrait of Admiral Lord Viscount Hood, by Gaimborouyli ; 
presented by Lord Hood, on his admission into this Com¬ 
pany in 1783, after the freedom of the City had been con¬ 
ferred upon him for hiff eminent naval services. The great 
Banqueting-hall has beffii decorated in the Elizabethan style, 
in papier m5,ch^ and carton pierre. 

11. VINTNERS' HALL, on the river side of Upper 
Thames Street. It is a modern building of small preten¬ 
sions, but the Company is of great antiquity. In the Court¬ 
room are full-length portraits of Charles II., James II., 
Marie D’Este, and Prince George of Denmark. The patron 
saint of the Company is St. Martin, and one of the churches in 
the ward of Vintry was called St. Martin’s-in-the-Vintry. 


244 


XXV.—stationers’ hall. 


12. CLOTHAVORKERS’ HALL, on the east side of 
Mincing Lane, Fenchuech Street. A handsome building, 
erected 1860. King James I. incorporated himself into 
the Clothworkers, as men dealing in the principal and 
noblest staple ware of all these Islands. “ Beeing in the 
open hall, he asked who was master of the company, and 
the Lord Mayor answered, Syr William Stone; unto whom 
the King said, ‘ Wilt thou make me fi’ee of the Cloth- 
workers V ^ Yea,’ quoth the master, ‘and thinke my- 
selfe a happy man that I live to see this day.’ Then the 
King said, ‘ Stone, give me thy hand, and now I am a Cloth- 
worker.’ ” Pepys, who was Master in 1677, presented a 
richly-chased silver cup, called “ The Loving Cup,” still in 
the possession of the Company, and used on all festive 
occasions. 

Of the other Halls of Companies the. most important are— 

APOTHECARIES’ HALL, Water Lane, Blackpriars. 
A brick and stone building, erected in 1670 as the Dispen¬ 
sary and Hall of the Incorporated Company of Apothecaries. 

“ Nigh where Fleet Ditch descends in sable streams, 

To wash his sooty Naiads in the Thames, 

There stands a structure on a rising hill, 

AVhere tyros take their freedom out to kill.” 

Garth, The Dispensary. 

The Grocers and the Apothecaries were originally one Com¬ 
pany ; but this union did not exist above eleven yeai’S, King 
James I., at the suit of Gideon Delaune (d. 1659), his own 
apothecary, granting (1617) a charter to the Apothecaries as 
a separate Company. In the Hall is a small good portrait of 
James I., and a contemporary statue of Delaune. In 1687 
commenced a controversy between the College of Physicians 
and the Company of Apothecaries, the heats and bicker¬ 
ings of which were the occasion of Garth’s poem of The 
Dispensary. The Apothecaries have a Botanic Garden at 
Chelsea; and still retain the power of granting certificates to 
competent persons to dispense medicines. In the Hall is a 
well-supported retail-shop, for the sale of unadulterated 
medicines. 

STATIONERS’ HALL, Stationers’ Hall Court, Ludgate 
Hill. The Hall of the “ Master and Keepers or AVardens and 
Commonalty of the Mystery or Art of the Stationers of the City 
of London,” the only London Company entirely restricted 
to the members of its own craft. The Company Avas incorpo¬ 
rated in the reign of Philip and Mary, and the present Hall 


XXV.—stationers’ hall. 


245 


erected on the site of Burgaveny House, belonging to Henry 
Nevill, sixth Lord Abergavenny (d. 1587). The Hall was 
destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, when the Stationers of 
London (the greatest sufferers on that occasion) lost property, 
it is said, to the amount of 200,000^. Obsei’ve .—Portraits of 
Prior and Steele (good); of Richardson, the novelist, Master 
of the Company in 1754, and of Mrs. Richardson, the 
novelist’s wife (both by Highmore ); of Alderman Boy dell, 
by Graham; of Vincent Wing, the astrologer; Wing died in 
1668, but his name is still continued as the compiler of the 
sheet almanacks of the Stationers’ Company. The Stationers’ 
Company, for two important centuries in English history, 
had nearly the entire monopoly of learning. Printers were 
obliged to serve their time to a member of the Company, 
and every publication, from a Bible to a ballad, was required 
to be ‘‘ Entered at Stationers’ Hall.” The seiwice is now un¬ 
necessary; but under the actual Copyright Act, the proprietor 
of every published work is required, for his own protection, 
to register in the books of the Stationers’ Company, its title, 
owner, and date of publication, in order to secure it from 
piracy. The fee is 5s. The number of Freemen is between 
1000 and 1100, and of the livery, or leading persons, about 450. 
The Company’s capital is upwards of 40,000Z., divided into 
shares varying in value from 40^. to 400Z. each. The great 
treasui'e of the Company is its register of works entered 
for publication, commencing in 1557, published by the 
Shakespeare Society. The only publications which the Com¬ 
pany continues to make are almanacks, of which they had 
once the entire monopoly, and a Latin Gradus. Almanack 
day at Stationers’ Hall (eveiy 22nd of November, at 3 
o’clock) is a sight worth seeing, for the bustle of the porters 
anxious to get off with early supplies. The celebrated Bible 
of the year 1632, with the important word not ” omitted in 
the seventh commandment, “ Thou shalt commit adultery,” 
was printed by the Stationers’ Company. The omission was 
made a Star-Chamber matter by Archbishop Laud, and a 
heavy fine laid on the Company for their neglect. 

In the Hall of the Armourers’ Company, Coleman-street, 
is a noble collection of mazers, hanaps, and silver-gilt cups, 
not to be matched by any other company in London, besides 
some curious old armour. 

At Barber-Surgeons’ Hall, Monkwell-street, City, is the 
picture, by Holbein, of Henry VIII. presenting the charter to 
the Company, perhaps the most important work of Holbein’s 
in England, but injured and painted over. At the same Hall 
are two silver-gilt cups, one of great beauty, presented by 


246 XXV.—CITY HALLS.—ARTILLERY COMPANY. 


Henry VIII., the other, scarcely inferior, by Charles II. 
At Weavers’ Hall, 22, Basinghall-sHeet, is an old picture of 
William Lee, the Cambridge scholar, who is said to have 
invented the loom for weaving stockings: the picture repre¬ 
sents him jjointing out his loom to a female knitter. At 
SaEdlebs’ Hall, Cheapside, is a fine Funeral Pall of 15th 
century work, inferior, however, to the Pall at the Fish¬ 
mongers’. At Carpenters’ Hall, Carpenters’ Buildings, 
London Wall, were to be seen four paintings in distemper, 
of a date as early as the reign of Edward IV.; ancient 
caps and crowns of the Master and Wardens. At Painter- 
STAinErs’ Hall, Little Trinity Lane, is a portrait of Camden, 
the antiquary (son of d, painter-stainer), and a Loving Cup, 
bequeathed by him to the Company, and used evety St. 
Luke’s t)ay. 

The AETILLERY GEOUKD (Finsbury Square, west 
side) has been the exercising ground since 1622 of the 
Honourable Artillery Company of the City of London. The 
old City Trained Band was established 1585, during the fear of 
a Spanish invasion; new formed in 1610, and a weekly exercise 
in arms was adhered to with strict military discipline. When 
the Civil War broke out, the citizens of Loudon (then carefully 
trained to war) took Up arms against the King; and on all 
occasions^ more especially at the battle of Hewbury, behaved 
with admirable conduct and courage. Since the Eestoration, 
they have led a peaceable life, and, except in 1780, when their 
promptness preserved the Bank of England, have only been 
called out on state occasions, such as the public thanksgiving 
(1705) for the victories of the Duke of Marlboi’ough> when 
Queen Anne went to St. Paul’s, and the Westminster Militia 
lined the streets from St. James’s to Temple Bar, and the 
City Trained Bands from Temple Bar to St. Paul’s. The 
musters and marchings of this most celebrated Company 
are admirably ridiculed by Fletcher in The Knight of the 
Burning Pestle ; and the manner in wdiich their orders were 
issued, by Steele, in Ho. 41 of the Tatler. I need hardly 
add, that John Gilpin was a Train-band Captain. 

“ A Traiti-baild Captain eke was he 
Of famous London town.” 

The Colonel of the Company is always a person of rank and 
position, and the force is 400 or 500 men, many of them sons 
of gentlemeU, armed with rifles, and good shots. They have 
4 pieces of cairnon. 


XXVI.—ilAIINRNT PERSONS BORN IN LONDON. 247 


XXVI-EMINENT PERSONS BORN IN LONDON. 

St. Thomas Becket^ Archbishop of Canterbury, behind the 
Mercers’ Chapel in the Poultry. 

Sir Thomas More, Lord Chancellor, in Milk-street, Cheapside. 

Lord Bacon, Lord Chancellor, in York House, on the site of 
Buckingham-street in thu Strand. 

Thos. Wentworth, Earl op Strafford, in Chancery-lane. 

The great Earl op Chatham, in the parish of St. James’s, 
Westminster. 

William Camden, author of ‘^Britannia,” in the Little Old 
Bailey, near St. Sepulchre’s Church. 

John Stow, the historian of London. 

Chaucer, the father of English Poetry. 

Spenser, in East Smithfield, near the Tower, it is said. 

Ben Jonson, in Hartshorne-lane, near Northumberland- 
street, Chariug-cross, it is said. 

Milton, in Bread-street, Cheapside, where his father was a 
scrivener at the sign of the Spread Eagle. 

Cowley, in Fleet-street, near Chancery-lane, where his 
father was a grocer. 

Pope, in Lombard-street, where his father was a linen-draper. 

Gray, at 41, Cornhill, where his father was a linen-draper. 

Lord Byron, at No. 16 (not 24), Holles-street, Cavendish- 
squai’c, where his mother lodged, 1788. 

Inigo Jones, in or near Cloth Fail*, Smithfield, where his 
father was a clothworker. 

Hogarth, in Bartholomew-close, Smithfield. His fiither was 
corrector of the press to the booksellers in Little Britain, 

Bp. Lancelot Andrewes, 1565, in Tower-street. His father 
was a seaman attached to the Trinity House. 

Penn, the founder of Pennsylvania, in the house of his 
father the Admiral, on Great Tower-hill, on the E. side, 
within a court adjoining to London Wall. 

Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, in the Piazza, Co vent-garden. 

Horace Walpole, 24, Arlington-street, Piccadilly, residence 
of Sir Robert Walpole. 

C. J. Fox, in Conduit-street, Bond-street. 

Lord Cornwallis, in Grosvenor-square, 1738. 

Dan. Db Fob, sou ofa butcher in St. Giles’s, Cripplegate, 1661. 


248 xxyii. —eminent persons buried in London, 


XXVII. 

EMINENT PERSONS BURIED IN LONDON AND 
ITS IMMEDIATE VICINITY. 


KINGS AND QUEENS:— 
Edward the Confessor . 
Edward I. ... 

Edward III. 

Henry V. .... 

James IV. of Scotland 
Anne Boleyn .... 
Lady Jane Grey . 

Queen Elizabeth 
Maiy, Queen of Scots . 


. 'Westminster Abbey. 

. Ditto. 

. Ditto. 

. Ditto. [Cheapside. 

. St. Michael’s, Wood-street, 
. St. Peter*s-ad-Vincula, Tower. 
. Ditto. 

. Westminster Abbey. 

. Ditto. 


SOLDIERS:— 

Aymer de Valence,Earl of Pembroke, Westminster Abbey. 

Sir Francis Vere.Ditto. 

Lord Herbert of Cherbury . . .St. Giles’s-in-the-Fields. 

General Wolfe.Greenwich old Parish Ch. 

Sir Thomas Picton . . . .St. Paul’s, 1859. 

Duke of Wellington . . . . St. Paul’s. 

SEAMEN :— 

—Sir Walter Raleigh . . . . St. Margaret’s, Westminster. 

Nelson.St. Paul’s. 

Collingwood.Ditto. 

HISTORICAL CHARACTERS:— 

Cromwell, Earl of Essex . . .St. Peter’s-ad-Vincula, Tower. 

Protector Somerset.Ditto. 

ATlliers,lst&2dDuke.sofBuckingham, Westminster Abbey. 

Duke of Monmouth . . . . St. Peter’s-ad-Viucula, Tower. 

STATESMEN :— 

Sir Thomas More 
Sir William Temple 
Savile, Lord Halifax . 

Bolingbroke. 

Chatham. 

Pitt. 

Fox. 

Canning. 

DIVINES:— 

Miles Coverdale .... 

Bishop Andrews .... 

Fuller, author of “ Worthies ” . 

Barrow. 

South. 

Archbishop Tillotson 
Bishop Burnet .... 

Nelson, author of “ Fasts and Fes¬ 
tivals ”. 

Fox, founder of the Quakers 

Wesley. 

Isaac Watts .... 

Rev. John Newton .... 

Swedenborg. 


. Chelsea Old Church. 

. Westminster Abbey. 
. Ditto. 

. Battersea Church. 


Westminster Abbey. 


St. Magnus, London Bridge 
St. Saviour’s, SoutliAvark. 
Cranford, near Hounslow. 

Westminster Abbey. 

Ditto. 

St. Lawrence, Jewry. 

St. J ames’s, Clerkenwell. 

St. George the Martyr, Queen's 
Square. 

Bunhill-fields’ Burial-ground. 
Wesley’s Chapel, City-road. 
Bunhill-fields. [street 

St. Mary Woolnoth, Lombard- 
Swedish Church, Prince’.s- 
square, Ratcliff Highway. 




XXVil.—BURIAL PLACES OF GREAT PERSONS. 249 


POETS, &c:— 
C'liaucer . 

Gower . 

Spenser . 

Sir Philip Sydney 

Chapman 

Ben Jonsou . 

Beaumont 

Fletcher 

Massinger 

Kit Marlowe 

Milton 

Cowley . 

Butler 
Otway . 

' Dryden 
Pope 

Congreve . 

Gay 
Prior 
Addison 
Thomson . 

Dr. Johnson 
Chatterton 
R. B, Sheridan 
Campbell . 

Rogers 

Tom Dibdin . 


MUSICIANS:— 

Purcell .... 
Handel.... 

NOVELISTS:— 

Bunyan .... 
De Foe .... 
Richardson 

Sterne .... 
Goldsmith 

ACTORS AND ACTRESSES: 
Tarlton .... 
Burbadge .... 
Ned Alleyn . 

Betterton .... 
Colley Cibber 

Garrick .... 
Mrs. Oldfield 
Mrs. Bracegirdle 
Mrs. Siddons 


. Westminster Abbey. 

. St. Saviour’s, Southwark. 

. Westminster Abbey. 

. Site of St. Paul’s. 

. St. Giles’s-in-the-Fields. 

. Westminster Abbey. 

. Ditto. 

. St. Saviour’s, Southwark. 

. Ditto. 

. Deptford Old Church. 

. St. Giles’s, Cripplegate. 

. Westminster Abbey. 

. St. Paul’s, Covent-gardeu. 

. St. Clement’s Danes. 

. Westminster Abbey 
. Twickenham. 

. Westminster Abbey. 

. Ditto. 

. Ditto. 

. Ditto. 

. Richmond. 

. Westminster Abbey. 

. Site of Farringdon Market 
. Westminster Abbey. 

. Ditto. 

. Hornsey. 

. St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields Bu¬ 
rial-ground, Camden-town. 


. Westminster Abbey. 
. Ditto. 


. Bunhill-fields. 

. Ditto. 

. St. Bride’s, Fleet-street. 

. Bayswater Burial-ground. 

. Ground of Temple Church. 


. St. Leonard's, Shoreditch. 

. Ditto. 

. Dulwich College. 

. Westminster Abbey. 

. Danish Church, Wellclose- 
square. 

. Westminster Abbey. 

. Ditto. 

. Ditto. 

. Old Paddington Churchyard. 


PHYSICIANS AND SURG 
Sir Hans Sloane 
Dr. Mead 
Cheselden 
John Hunter 
Sir Astley Cooper . 


ONS :— 


. Chelsea Churchyard (Old). 
. AVestminster Abbey. 

. Chapel of Chelsea College. 

. St. Martin’s-in-the-Fiekis. 

. Chapel of Guy’s Hospital. 










250 XXVII.—BURIAL BLACES OP GREAT PERSONBi 


PHILOSOPHERS:— 

^ Sir Isaac Newton 

/LAAVYERS 

Plowden . . . 

Sir AVilliam Follett 


. AVcstminster Abbey. 


. Temple Church. 
. Ditto. 


HISTORIANS Axu ANTIQUARIES:— 

Fox, author of “Acts and Monuments” St. Giles’s, Cripplegate. 

Camdeu.AVestminster Abbey. 

Stow.St. Andrew Undershaft, Lead- 

enhall-street. 

Spelman ..AVestminster Abbey. 

Archbishop Usher ..... Ditto. 

Oldys.St. Pennet, Paul’s-wharf. 

Ritsoii.Bimliill-fields. 

Strutt . . . i . . . St.Andrew’s-in-the-AA'’ardrobc. 


PAINTERS :— 

Holbein. 

Van Dyck .... 
Sir Peter Lely . . . . 

The two Vandcrveldcs 
Sir Joshua Reynolds 
Hogarth .... 
Gainsborough . . . . 

Stothard. 

Sir Thomas Lawrence 
J. M. W. Turner 

SCULPTORS:— 

Grinling Gibbous 
Roubiliac . . . . 

Flaxman .... 

ARCHITECTS :— 

Inigo Jones .... 
Sir Christopher AA'roii 

ENGRAVERS :— 

Hollar. 

AVoollett .... 

Strange. 

AVilliam Sharp 

ENGINEERS :— 

John Rennie .... 


. . St. Catherine Cree, Leaden- 
liall-street. 

. Site of St. Paul’s. 

. . St. Paul’s, Covent-garden. 

. St. James’s, Piccadilly. 

. . St. Paul’s. 

. Chiswick Churchyard. 

. . Kew Churchyard. 

. Bimhill-fields. 

. . St. Paul’s. 

. St Paul’s. 

. St. Paul’s, Covent-garden. 

. . St. Martin’s-in-the-Fieids. 

. St. Giles’s Burial-ground, 

St. Pancras. 

, . St. Bennet, Paul’s-wharf. 

. St. Paul’s. 


. St. Margaret’s, AA'^estminster. ' 
. Old St. Pancras Churchyard, 

. St. Paul’s, Covent-gai'den. 

. Chiswick Churchyard. 


. . St. Paul’s. 


EAIINENT FOREIGNERS:— 

Casaubon.AVestminster Abbey. 

St. Evremont.Ditto. 

General Paoli.Old St. Pancras Churchyard. 

Ugo Foscolo.Chiswick Churchyard. 


MISCELLANEOUS:— 

AVill Somers, Henry VIII.’s jester . St. Leonard’s. 

Old Parr.AA’’estminster Abbey. 

Hakluyt.Ditto. 

Capt. John Smith, author of “ History 
of Virginia ”.St. Sepulchre’s, Snow-luP. 



XXVII*—BURIAL PLACES OF GREAT PERSONS. 2ol 


MISCELLANEOUS, continued: — 
lleminge and Cundall 
Roger Ascham t 
Andrew Marvell • . . 

Pepys . 

Dr, Busby .... 
La Belle Stuart . 

Nell Gwyn .... 
Uuchess of Cleveland . 

Judge Jefferies . . . 

Colonel Blood 

Trusty Dick Pohdereil . 

Dr. Sacheverel * . * 

Ludowick Muggleton 

Jack Sheppard * . ; 

Joe Miller . i . . 

Cocker. 

Hoyle. 

Lady Mary AVortley Munlngti 
JackAVilkes .... 
Lord George Goi’dou . 

Joanna Southcott . 

John Horne Tooke 
Rev. Sydney Smith 


. St. Mary’s, Aldermanbury. 

. St. Sepulchre’s, Snow-hill. 

. St. Giles’s-in-tlie-Fields. 

. St, Olave’s, Hart-street, 

. AVestminster Abbey. 

. Ditto. 

. St. Martin’s-in-the-Eields. 

. Chiswick. 

. St. Alary’s, Aldermanbury. 

. New Chapel-yard, Broadway, 
AVestminster. 

. St.Giles’s-in-the-FieldChurch- 
ynrd. 

^ . St. Andrew’s, Holborn. 

. Bethlehem Churchyard, Liver- 
pool-street, City. 

, St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields. 

. St. Clement’s Danes Yard, in 
Portugal-street. 

. St. George’s, Southwark. 

, Old Alarylebone Churchyard. 

. South Audley-street Cliapel. 

. Ditto. 

. St. James’s, Hampstead-road. 
. St. John’s Chapel Burial- 
gi’ound, St. John’s AVood. 
i Ealing. 

. Kensal Green. 


PUBLIC BENEFACTORS 
AVilliam Caxton . . . 

Sir Thomas Gresham 


St. Alargaret’s, AVestminster. 
St. Helen’s, Bishopsgate. 


CELEBRATED CHARACTEllS 
1637—1649 

Charles I. .... 

Lord Clarendon . 

Prince Rupert. 
Attorney-General Noy 
Cleveland .... 

Alexander Broine 
Rushwortli .... 

Cromwell .... 
Bradshaw * , , . 

Ire ton. 

Earl of Essex .... 
Fleetwood .... 

Slonk. 

Pym. 

Sir John Eliot 

Selden . ... 

Blake . 

May. 

Lilburn. 

Richard Baxter . 

Edmund Calamy 


DURING THE ClVlL AVAR 

. . St. George’s Chapel, AVindsor. 

. AA'estminster Abbey. 

. . Ditto. 

. Brentford Old Church. 

. . St. Michael’s, College-hill. 

. Lincoln’s-Inn Chapel. 

. , St. George’s, Southwark. 

} Under Tybutn Gallows, 
Hyde Park end of Edg- 
ware-road. 

. . AVestminster Abbey. 

. Bunhill-fields. 

. . AVestminster Abbey. 

. Ditto. 

, . St, Peter’s-ad-Vincula, Tower. 

. Temple Church. 

. . \ Pit in St. Alargaret’s Church- 
.) yard, AVestminster. 

. Bethlehem Churchyard,Liver- 
pool-street, 

, ChristChurch,Newgate street. 
. . St. Alary Aldermary. 







252 


XXVIII.—HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS. 


XXVIII.-HOUSES IN WHICH EMINENT PERSONS 
HAVE LIVED. 

“ There is a custom on the Continent well worthy of 
notice,” says the elegant-minded author of the Pleasures of 
Memory. “In Boulogne, we read as we ramble through it, 
‘Ici est mort 1’Auteur de Gil Bias;’ in Eouen, ‘Ici est ne 
Pierre Corneille;’ in Geneva, ‘Ici est ne Jean Jacques 
Rousseau;’ and in Dijon there is the ‘Maison Bossuet;’ in 
Paris, the ' Quai Voltaire.’ Very rai’e are such memorials 
among us; and yet wherever we meet with them, in what¬ 
ever country they were, or of whatever age, we should surely 
say that they were evidences of refinement and sensibility in 
the people. The house of Pindar Avas spared 
When temple and tower 
Went to the ground; 

and its ruins were held sacred to the last. According to 
Pausanias they were still to be seen in the second century.” 
Concurring in this sentiment to its fullest extent, I have 
compiled the following list of eminent persons who have 
lived in London, and whose houses are known. 

Duke of Marlborough died in Marlborough House, Pall-mall. 

Duke of Wellington (d. 1852), reconstructed Apsley House, 
as it now stands, and lived in it 32 yeai’s. 

Duke of Schomberg, in Schomberg House, Pall-mall. 

Lord Clive died in No. 45, Berkeley-square. 

Lord Nelson lived at No. 141, New Bond-street, after the 
battle off Cape St. Vincent and the Expedition to Teneriffe, 
where he lost his arm. 

Sir T. Picton, who fell at Waterloo, at No. 21, Edward-street, 
Portman-squai'e. Hither his body was brought after Waterloo. 

Lord Hill, the hero of Almarez, in the large house, S.W. 
corner of Belgrave-square, 

Lord Lynedoch, the hero of Barossa, died at No. 12, 
Stratton-street, Piccadilly. 

Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury, in Shaftesbury House, east 
side of Aldersgate-street. 

Lord Chancellor Somers, in the large house N.W. corner 
of Lincoln’s-Inn-fields. 

Duke of Newcastle, prime minister in the reign of 
George II., in the same house. 

Lord Mansfield, when Mr. Murray, at No. 5, King’s- 
Bench-walk, Temple. 

Lord Chancellor Cowper, at No. 13, Great George-street, 
Hanover-square. 


XXVIII.—HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS. 253 


The polite Earl of Chesterfield died in Chesterfield House, 
May Fair. 

Loi’d Chancellor Thurlow, at No. 45, Great Ormond-street, 
where the Great Seal was stolen from him. 

Lord Chancellor Eldon, at No. 6, Bedford-square, and 
W. corner of Hamilton-place, Piccadilly, in which he died. 

Sir Samuel Komilly died at No. 21, Russell-square. 

Edmund Burke, at No. 37, Gerard-street, Soho. 

R. Brinsley Sheridan died at No. 7, Saville-row. 

Sir Robert Peel died at his house in Privy-gardens, Whitehall. 

Milton lived in a garden-house in Petty France, now No. 
19, York-street, Westminster. 

Dry den died at No. 43, Gerard-street, Soho. 

Prior lived in Duke-street, Westminster, the house 
facing Charles-street. 

Southerne lodged in Tothill-street, Westminster, facing 
DaHmouth-street. It was an oilman’s in his time, and is still. 

Addison died in Holland House, Kensington. 

Byron, born "in No. 16, Holles-street, Cavendish-square, 
spent his short married life at No. 139, Piccadilly. In the 
rooms of the Albany, 2 a, facing Saville-row, he wrote Lara. 

Sir Walter Scott put up at Miss Dumergue’s, comer of White 
Horse-street, Piccadilly, and at Mr, Lockhart’s, 24, Sussex- 
place. Regent’s Park. 

Shelley lodged at No. 41, Hans-place, Sloane-street, 

Keats wrote his magnificent sonnet on Chapman’s Homer, 
&c., in the second floor of No. 71, Cheapside. 

The last London residence of Campbell, author of “ The 
Pleasures of Hope,” was at No. 8, Victoria-square, Pimlico. 

Crabbe lodged at No. 37, Bury-street, St, James’s. 

Tom Moore, in 1806, dedicates his “Odes and Epistles” 
to Lord Moira, from No. 27, Bury-street, St. James’s-strcet; 
and the Advertisement to the fourth number of his “ Irish 
Melodies” is dated Bury-street, Nov,, 1811. 

Johnson completed his Dictionary in the garret of No. 17, 
Gough-squai'e, Fleet-street, and died at No. 8, Bolt-court, 
Fleet-street. 

Boswell died at No. 47, Great Portland-street, Oxford-st. 

Goldsmith died at No. 2, Brick-court, Temple, up two pair 
of stairs, and on the right as you ascend the staircase. 

Gibbon wrote his Defence of his Decline and Fall, at No. 7, 
Bentinck-street, Manchester-square. 

Horace Walpole lived at No. 5, Arlington-stx'eet, Piccadilly, 
and died at No. 11, Berkeley-square, 1797. 

Gai’rick died in the centre house of the Adelphi-terrace. 

Mrs. Siddons lived at No. 49, Great Marlborough-street, 


254 


XXVIII,—HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS. 


and died in Siddons House at the top of Upper Baker-street, 
Regent’s Park (right hand side). 

Edmund Kean lived at Ko. 12, Clarges-stx’eet, when at the 
height of his fame. 

Archbishop Laud, Archbishop Bancroft, Archbishop Til- 
lotson, at Lambeth Palace. 

Archbishop Leighton died in the Boll Inn, War wick-lane, 
Kewgate-street, 

Bishop Burnet died in St. John’s-square, Glerkenwell. 

Richardson, author of Clarissa Harlowe, lived in Salisbuiy- 
square. Fleet-street. 

Sterne, author of Tristram Shandy, died at No. 41, Old 
Bond-street. 

Charles Lamb, at No. 4, Inner-Temple-lane. 

Sir Isaac Newton lived in St. Martin’s-street, S. side of 
Leicester-sqxi.ai’e. His Observatory is still to be seen on tlie 
top of the house. 

Sir Joseph Banks lived and held his parties at No. 32, 
Soho-square, afterwards the Linnsean Society. 

Priestley was living in Lansdowne House, Berkeley-square, 
when he made the discovery of oxygen. 

Francis Baily weighed the earth at No. 37, Tavistock-place, 
Tavistock-square—the house stands isolated in a garden. 

Linacre lived on the site of No. 5, Knightridei’-street, 
Doctors’ Commons—the house was bequeathed by him to 
the College of Physicians, and is still possessed by them. 

Dr. Arbuthnot, in Dover-street, Piccadilly, 2nd dooi’,W. side. 

Dr. Mead, at No. 49, Great Ormond-street. 

Dr. Jenner, at No. 14, Hertford-street, May Fair. 

Dr. Baillie died at No. 25, Cavendish-square. 

Ml*. Abernethy died at No. 14, Bedford-row. 

Sir Astley Cooper died at No. 2, New-street, Spring-gardens. 

Grinling Gibbons, W. side of Bow-street, Covent-garden, 
N. corner of King’s-court. 

Hogarth, in Leicester-square, now northern half of 
Sablonniere Hotel. 

Sir Joshua Reynolds, centre of W. side of Leicester-square. 

Gainsborough, in western half of Schomberg House,Pall-mall. 

Flaxman died at No. 7, Buckingham-street, Fitzroy-square. 
His studio still remains. 

Chantrey died in Eccleston-street, Pimlico, comer of Lower 
Bclgrave-place. 

Wilkie painted his Rent Day at No. 84, Upper Portland-st., 
and his Chelsea Pensioners at No. 24, Lower Phillimore-place, 
Kensington. 

Stothard died at No. 28, Newman-street, Oxford-streeL 


XXVIII. — HOUSES OF EMINENT PERSONS. 255 


Sir Thomas Lawrence died at No. 65, Russell-square. 

J. M. AV. Turner lived at47, Queen Anne-street, Cavendisli-sq. 

Penn, founder of Pennsylvania, live 4 in Norfolk-street, 
Strand, last house on left hand side. 

Honest Shippen,” E. side of Norfolk-street, Strand. 

Jonathan Wild, No. 68, Old Bailey. 

Jeremy Bentham, No. 2, Queen-square place, Westminster. 

Rev. Sydney Smith died at No. 56, Green-st., Grosvenor-sq. 

Daniel O’Connell lodged at No. 29, Bury-street, during the 
sti-uggle (1829) for Catholic Emancipation. 

Handel lived in Burlington House, Piccadilly, with the 
Earl of Burlington, the architect, and died in Brook-street, 
Hanover-square. 

Carl Maria VonAVeber died at No. 91, Upper Portland-st. 

Watteau lived with Dr. Mead at No. 49, Great Ormoud-st. 

Orleans ilgalite, at No. 31, South-street, Grosvenor-square. 

Madame de Stael, at No. 30, Argyll-street, Regent-street. 

Blucher,when in England in 1814, in St. James’s Palace, in 
the dark brick house, on your right as you j)ass the opening 
from St. James’s (Ambassador’s Court) to Stafford House. 

Charles X. of France at No. 72, South-Audley-sti’eet. 

Talleyrand, at the house of the French Embassy, N. side 
of Manchester-square. 

Joseph Buonaparte and Lucien Buonaparte, at No. 23, 
Park-crescent, Portland-place. 

Louis Philippe’s last London lodging was at Cox’s Hotel, 
in Jermyn-street. 

M. Guizot, at No, 21, Pelham-crescent, Brompton. 

Don Carlos, in 1834, at No. 5, AVelbeck-street. Here he 
had his hair dyed, and here he shaved his moustache prepa¬ 
ratory to his journey to Spain through France in disguise. 

Louis Napoleon Buonaparte, Emperor of the French, lodged 
at No. 3, King-street, St. James’s-square; this was his last 
London lodging. 

Canaletti, on site of corner house of Richmond-terrace, in 
a garret over a small shop, 

Samuel Rogers (from 1806 to 1855, when he died), at No. 
22, St. James’s-place, overlooking the Green-park. 


256 XXIX.—STREETS AND EMINENT PERSONS. 


XXIX. 

STREETS (HOUSES UNKNOWN OR NOT STANDING) 
IN WHICH EMINENT PERSONS HAVE LIVED. 

Sir Thomas More lived at Chelsea, in a house immediately 
facing the present-Battersea Bridge. He is buried in Chelsea ' 
old Church. 

Charles V. of Spain was lodged in the Blackfriars. 

Shakespeai’e is said to have lived on the Bankside, in South¬ 
wark, near the Globe Theatre. He was possessed of a house 
in Ireland-yard, Blackfriars. 

Spenser died for lack of bread in King-street, Westminster, 
and was buried in Westminster Abbey. 

Izaak Walton lived in Chancery-lane, in the 7th house on 
the left hand as you walk from Fleet-street to Holborn. 

Harvey, the discovei*er of the circulation of the blood, lived 
%vith his brother, in Cockaine House, in the City. 

Oliver Cromwell lived in Long-acre; in King-street, West¬ 
minster ; in the Cockpit, now the site of the Treasmy; and 
at Whitehall, of which the Banqueting-house only remains. 

Van Dyck died in the Blackfriars, and was buried in St. 
Paul’s Cathedral. 

Vandervelde the younger lived in Piccadilly, over against 
the church of St. James, in which he is bui’ied. 

Peter the Great lived in a house (Pepys’s) on the site of 
the last house on the W. side of Buckingham-street, Strand, 
and frequented the Czar of Muscovy Public House, 48, Great 
Tower-street. 

Voltaire, when in London, in 1726, lodged at the Wlaite 
Peruke in Maiden-lane. 

Andrew Marvell was living in Maiden-lane when he refused 
a bribe from the Lord Treasm’er Danby. 

Kell Gwyn died in a house on the site of No. 79, Pall-mall. 

Locke dates the dedication of his “Essay on Human 
Understanding ” from Dorset-court, Fleet-street. 

Addison lived, when a bachelor, in St. James’s-place, St. 
James’s-street, where it is said Mr. Hegel’s, the poet, lately 
lived. 

Fielding lived in Bow-street, Covent-garden, in a house on 
tlie site of the present Police-office. 

Butler, author of Hudibras, died in Rose-street, Covent- 
garden, and was buried in the churchyard of St. Paul’s, 
Covent-garden. 

Benjamin Franklin worked as a journeyman printer in 
Bartholomew-close, West Smithfield. He lived also at No. 7, 
Craven-street, Strand. 


XXX.—SITES AND REMARKABLE EVENTS. 


2o7 


John Wilkes (Wilkes and Liberty) lived in Prince’s-court, 
Great George-street, Westminster, and was buried in Soutli- 
Audley-street Chapel. 

Lady Mary Wortley Montagu died in George-street, Han- 
over-square, and was buried in South-Audley-street Chapel. 

General Paoli died (1807) “ at his house near the Edgeware- 
road,” and was buried in old St. Pancras Churchyard, 


XXX. 

PLACES AND SITES CONNECTED WITH 
REMARKABLE EVENTS, 

OR OTHERWISE DISTINGUISHED. 

London Wall: remains to be seen off Ludgate-hill, Tower- 
hill, and in the churchyard of St. Giles’s, Cripplegate. 

London Stone: which Jack Cade struck with his staff, in 
outer wall of the church of St. Swithin, Cannon-street, Wat- 
ling-street. 

Smithfield: scene of Wat Tyler’s death; of Wallace’s 
execution at the Elms; of Bartholomew Fair; and of the 
dreadful burnings in the reigns of Henry VIII. and Maiy. 

Charing-cross : Statue of Chai’les I. by Le Sceur; site of the 
last cross erected by Edward I. to Queen Eleanor, as the last 
place at which the coffin rested on its way to Westminster 
Abbey. Site also of the execution of the Regicides. 

St. John’s Gate, Clerkenwell, originally belonged to the 
Knights of St. John. Hei'e Dr. Johnson met Cave, and here 
was printed The Gentleman's Magazine. 

Tabard Inn, Southwark: the starting-place of Chaucer’s 
Canterbury Pilgrims. Pulled down. 

North-East corner of St. Paul’s Churchyard : site of Paul’s 
Cross, where the Paul’s Cross Sermons were preached. 

The Tower Green, near the chapel of St. Peter-ad-Vincula : 
place of execution of Anne Boleyn, Lady Jane Grey, &c. 
{See Tower.) 

Westminster Abbey : place of coronation of our kings and 
queens, and sepulchre of many of them. 

Westminster Hall: place of trial of Earl of Strafford, of 
Charles I., and of Warren Hastings. 

New Houses of Parliament: site of Star-Chamber, Painted 
Chamber, and Guy Faux’ Cellar. 

s 



258 XXX.—SITES AND REMARKABLE EVENTS. 


Almonry, Westminster, in which Caxton erected his 
printing-press. 

Sir Thomas More’s chapel on south side of chancel of 
Chelsea old church. 

Centre of St. Paul’s: site of tomb of John of Gaunt, and 
of the first Duke Humphrey’s Walk. 

Bridewell, Bridge-street, Blackfriars: scene of Queen 
Katherine’s Trial. 

Ludgate-hill, over against Saracen’s Head, where Wyat, in 
the reign of Queen Mary, was stayed in liis rebellion. 

Palace Yard, Westminster, in which Sir Walter Ealeigh 
was executed. 

Street facing the Banqueting-house at Whitehall, in which 
Charles I. was executed. 

Centre of Lincoln’s-Inn-fields, in which William Lord 
Eussell was executed. 

Pall-mall end of Haymarket: scene of the murder of Mr. 
Thynne by assassins hired by Count Koningsmarck. 

Corner of SufiFolk-street, Pall-mall: scene of the barbarous 
revenge on Sir John Coventry, which led to the famous 
Coventry Act against cutting and maiming. 

Maiden-lane, Covent-garden, where, in a garret, and with 
only cold mutton before him for his dinner, Andrew Marvell 
refused the bi'ibe of Lord Treasurer Danby. 

Gray’s-Inn-laue, where Hampden and Pym lived, and where 
they held their consultations for resisting the impost of 
shipmoney. 

Middle Temple Gate, Fleet-street, occupying site of former 
gate built by Sir Amias Paulet, as a fine laid upon him by 
Cardinal Wolsey. 

Coleman-street, in the city, whither the five members 
accused by Charles I. of high treason fled for concealment. 

Rose-alley, King-street, Covent-garden : scene of Dryden’s 
beating by bullies hired by the Eai’l of Rochester. 

Ground between Dover-sti’eet and Bond-street, facing St. 
James’s-street: site of Clarendon House. 

Hyde Park (probably near the Ring), where Oliver Crom¬ 
well drove the six horses presented to him by the Earl of 
Oldenburgh, and where, when thrown from his seat, a pistol 
went off in his pocket. 

Black Jack Public-house, Poidsmouth-street, Clare Market: 
favourite resort of Joe Miller, and celebrated for the jump 
which Jack Sheppard made from one of its first-floor windows 
to escape the emissaries of Jonathan Wild. 

Roman Catholic Chapel, Duke-street, Lincoln’s-Inu-flelds: 
the first building destroyed in the riots of 1780. 


XXX.—SITES AND REMARKABLE EVENTS. 259 

N. E. comer of Bloomsbury-square: site of Lord Mansfield’s 
house, destroyed in the riots of 1780. 

Barclay’s Brewhouse, Bankside, Southwark : site of Globe 
Theatre, in which Shakspeare played. 

Statue of William IV., facing London Bridge: site of Boar’s 
Head Tavern, immortalised by Shakspeare.. 

Bread-street, Cheapside, in which the Mermaid Tavern of 
Sir Walter Raleigh and Shakspeare stood. 

Child’s Banking-house, No. 1, Fleet-street: site of Devil 
Tavern, favourite resort of Ben Jonson and of Dr. Johnson. 

Ham and Beef-shop, corner of Bow-street: site of Will’s 
Coffee-house. 

Centre house on S. side of Great Russell-street, Covent- 
garden : site of Button’s Coffee-house. 

Es.sex Head, in Essex-street, Strand, kept in Johnson’s 
last years by a servant of Thrale’s, and where the Doctor 
established his last club. 

Essex-street, Strand, in the house of Lady Primrose (now 
unknown), where the young Pretender was concealed when 
in London (Sept., 1750) for the first and last time. 

Tower-hill, on which the scaffold stood on which, in 1747, 
the last person (Lord Lovat) was beheaded in this country. 

Pudding-lane, Monument-yard, in which the Fire of 
London began. 

Pie-corner, in Giltspur-street, in which it ended. 

Cock-lane, Giltspur-street, famous for its ghost. 

Mitre Tavern, Fleet-street, where Johnson and Boswell 
determined on making a tour to the Hebrides. 

Gmb-street, Cripplegate, now Milton-street, long cele¬ 
brated as the resort of poor and distressed authors. 

Alsatia, or Whitefriars, immortalised by Sir Walter Scott 
in “ The Fortunes of Nigel.” 

Picthatch, nearly opposite the Charter-House-end of Old- 
street-road, called by Falstaff, Pistol’s “ manor of Picthatch.” 

St. James’s-square, round which Johnson and Savage often 
walked a whole night for want of a bed. 

House at the top of Crane-court, Fleet-street, now Royal 
Scottish Hospital, with its handsome room built by Wren, in 
which Sir Isaac Newton sat as President of the Royal Society. 

W. end of Serpentine : scene of the fatal duel between 
Duke of Hamilton and Lord Mohun. 

W. side of Gateway of Inner Temple Lane, Fleet-street, 
where, in the shop of Robinson the bookseller. Pope and 
Warburton met for the first time. 

No. 8, Great Russell-street,Covent-garden: the shop of Tom^ 
Davies, where Johnson and Boswell met for the first time. 

s 2 


260 XXX—.SITES AND REMARKABLE EVENTS. 


Burlington House Gate, Piccadilly: subject of Hogarth’s 
print, in which he attacks Pope for his satire on the Duke of 
Chandos. 

Jew’s-row, Chelsea: scene of AVilkie’s Chelsea Pensioners 
reading the Gazette of the Battle of AVaterloo, 

Ground between the Piazza and Bow-street: site of the two 
gardens which led to the memorable retort made by Dr, Kad- 
cliffe to sir Godfrey Kneller. 

Ho ward-street, Norfolk-street, Strand : scene (before the 
door of Mrs. Bracegii’dle) of the murder, by Lord Mohun, 
of Mountfoii;, the actor. 

Fox-court, Gray’s-Inn-lane : birth-place of Eichard Savage, 

Brook-street, Holborn, where Chattei-tou j^oisoned himself. 

Shire-lane, Fleet-street, where the Kit-Kat Club met. 

Foot of Primrose-hill, where the body of Sir Edmundsbury 
Godfrey was found. 

Goods Station of London, Chatham, and Dover Railway on 
E, side of Farringdon-street: site of the Fleet Prison. 

Barracks of the Foot Guards, and road leading to Pimlico 
Suspension Bridge, AV. of Chelsea Hospital: site of Ranelagh 
Gardens. 

House in Arlington-street, Piccadilly, in which Lord Nelson 
and his wife quarrelled, and saw one another for the last 
time. 

Lansdowne House, in which Priestley was living when he 
discovered oxygen. 

House off Tavistock-place, Tavistock-square, in which 
Francis Baily weighed the earth. 

Homer-street, facing Cato-street: scene of the Cato Con¬ 
spiracy of Thistlewood and his associates. 

No. 39, Grosvenor-square (Lord Harrowby’s), where his 
Majesty’s ministers were to have been murdered as they sat 
at dinner, by Thistlewood and his gang. 

No, 7, Connaught-place, Edgware-road, whither the Princess 
Charlotte hurried in a hackney coach when she quarrelled 
with her father and left AA^arwick House. 

No. 49, Connaught-square, Edgeware-road: supposed site of 
Tyburn Gallows. 

No. 77, South Audley-street (then Alderman AVood’s), where 
Queen Caroline lodged in 1820, and in the balcony of which 
she would appear and bow to the mob assembled in the 
street. 

No. 50, Albemarle-street (Mr. Murray’s), where Sir AValter 
Scott and Lord Byron met for the first time. 

No. 80, Piccadilly, from whence Sir Francis Burdett was 
taken to the Tower. 


XXXI.—OUT-DOOR MONUMENTS. 


261 


Hall of Clielsea Hospital: scene of Whitelocke’s trial, and 
of the Court of Inquiiy into the Convention of Cintra, 

At the bar of Somerset Coffee-house, Strand, E. corner of 
enti’ance to King’s College, Junius directed many of his 
letters to be left for Woodfall. 

Near the upper end of Constitution-hill, Sir Robert Peel 
was thrown from his horse and killed. 

High-street, Borough: the house No. 119 occupies the 
site of the Marshalsea, where many of the Mai-tyrs who 
suffered for their religion in the bloody reign of Mary were 
imprisoned. 


XXXI. 

OUT-DOOR MONUMENTS AND PUBLIC STATUES. 

The monument, already described. 

YORK COLUMN, Carlton-House Gardens. Of Scotch 
granite, 124 feet high, designed by B. Wyatt, erected (1830-33) 
by public subscription, with a bronze statue 14 ft. high by 
Sir Richard Westmacott, of the Duke of York, second son of 
George III., upon the top. There is a staircase, and gallery 
affording a fine view of the W. end of London and the Surrey 
Hills. It is open from 12 to 4, from May to Sept. 24th. 

NELSON COLUMN, Trafalgar Square, Of Portland 
stone, 145 feet high, designed by Railton, and erected 1840- 
43. It is surmounted by a statue of Nelson, 17 feet high, 
by E. H. Baily, R.A., formed of two stones from the Gran- 
ton quarry; it has been styled “the beau-ideal of a Green¬ 
wich Pensioner,” The capital of the column is of bronze 
furnished from cannon taken from the French. The bronze 
bas-relief of the Death of Nelson is by Carew; of the Nile, 
by Woodington ; of Copenhagen, by Ternouth; and of St. 
Vincent, by Watson. Four grand colossal lions in bronze, 
modelled by Sir Edwin Landseer, R.A., very original 
studies from nature, crouch upon the four salient pedestals 
at the base. The total cost of the column has been 
about 46,000Z. The largest individual subscription was 
contributed by Nicolas, Emp. of Russia (500Z.). 

Bronze Equestrian Statue of CHARLES L, at Charing 
Cross, by Hubeid; Le Soeur, a Frenchman and pupil of John 
of Bologna, cast in 1633, near the church in Covent Gax’den, 
and not being erected before the cominencement of the Civil 


262 


XXXI.—OUT-DOOR MONUMENTS. 


War, sold by the Parliament to John Eivet, a brazier living 
at the Dial, near Holborn Conduit, with strict ordere to break 
it to pieces. But the man produced some fragments of old 
brass, and concealed the statue under ground till the Kesto- 
ration. The statue was set up in its present situation at the 
expense of the Crown, in 1676. The pedestal, generally 
attributed to Grinling Gibbons, was the w’ork of Joshua 
Marshall, Master Mason to the Crown. 

CHARLES II., at Chelsea Hospital, by Grinling Gibbons. 

JAMES II., bronze, by Grinling Gibbons, behind White¬ 
hall. 

Bronze Equestrian Statue of WILLIAM III., in St. James’s- 
square, by Bacon, junior. 

QUEEN ANNE, before the W. door of St. Paul’s, by F. 
Bird. 

Bronze Equesti’iau Statue of GEORGE III., Cockspur- 
street. Charing Cross, by M. C. Wyatt. 

Bronze Equestrian Statue of GEORGE IV., in Trafalgar- 
square, by Sir F. Chantrey. 

Marble Statue of QUEEN VICTORIA, in the Royal Ex¬ 
change, by Lough. 

Equestrian Statue of DUKE OF CUMBERLAND, the 
victor at Culloden, in Cavendish-square. 

DUKE OF BEDFORD, Russell-sq., by Sir R. Westmacott. 

PITT, in Hanover-square, by Sir Francis Chantrey. 

FOX, in Bloomsbury-square, by Sir R. Westmacott. 

LORD GEORGE BENTINCK, in Cavendish-square. 

MEMORIAL to the OflBcers and Men of the three Regts. of 
Foot Guards, w^ho fell in the Crimea; at the bottom of 
Regent-street in Waterloo-place; design by Bell: three 
statues of Guardsmen on a pedestal of granite, surmounted 
by a Victory of marble. The cannon are Russian, taken at 
Sebastopol. 

MEMORIAL to the Officer’s educated at Westminster 
School, who fell in the Crimea; a granite column, sur¬ 
mounted by a statue of St. George and the Dragon, designed 
by G. G. Scott, architect, in the Broad Sanctuary, West¬ 
minster, W. end of W. Abbey. 

Bronze Statue of CANNING, in Palace-yard, by Sir 
R. Westmacott. 

Equestrian Statue of RICHARD CCEUR DE LION, by 
Marochetti, Palace-yard, close to H. of Lords. 

Bronze Statue of ACHILLES, in Hyde Park, erected 1822, 
and ‘'Inscribed by the Women of England to Arthur Duke 
of Wellingtoir and his brave Companions in arms;” by Sir 
Richard Westmacott. Sec Hyde Park. 


XXXTI.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


263 


Bronze Equestrian Statue of DUKE OF WELLINGTON, 
in front of the Royal Exchange, by Sir Francis Chantrey. 

Ditto on Triumphal Arch, at Hyde-Park-corner, by M. C. 
Wyatt. 

SIR CHARLES NAPIER, by G. G. Adams, GEN. SIR 
HENRY HAVELOCK, byBehnes, 1861, in Trafalgar-square. 

Dr. JENNER, sitting figure, by Mamhall, in Kensington 
Gardens. 

SIR HUGH MYDDELTON, founder of the Ne^y River 
Company, Islington Green, N. 


XXXll.-PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES, SQUARES, 
LANES, &c. 

The landmarks, or central situations of London, are the Bank 
of England, the Royal Exchange, and the Mansion House, all 
three lying together in the very heart of the city ;—St. Paul’s 
Cathedi’al and the General Post Office, both in the City, and 
within a stone’s throw of one another;—Temple Bar and 
Somerset House,, the very central points of modern London;— 
Charing Cross; Regent Circus, in Piccadilly; the Piccadilly 
end of Albemarle-street, and Apsley House at Hyde-Park- 
corner, the leading points of the southern side of modern 
London;—Tottenham Court Road, the Regent Circus in 
Oxford-street, and the corner of Edgware Road, the leading 
points of the northern line of London. (See Clue Map.) 

The principal thoroughfares, or main arteries, are Regent- 
st., Piccadilly, Park-lane, Oxford-st., Holborn, the Strand, Fleet- 
st., Cheapside, Cannon-st., K. William-st., Cornhill, the New- 
road, the City-road, Drury-lane, Chancery-lane, Gray’s-Inn-lane. 
These ai’e all ti’aversed by a continuous stream of omnibuses, 
and are best seen from the top of an omnibus. AYhat Johnson 
called “ the full tide of human existence,” is to be seen at the 
Bank and Royal Exchange; at Charing Cross; and the Regent 
Circus in Oxford-street. 

New Road is in length .... 5115 yards. 

Oxford-street. 2304 „ 

Regent-street. 1730 „ 

Piccadilly. 1694 „ 

City Road. 1690 „ 

Strand. 1369 „ 

The streets of London are about 2800 in number; the 
longest street of consequence without a turning, is Sackville- 
street, Piccadilly. Cannon Street West (running from St. 
Paul’s to London Bridge) was formed at a cost of 200,000/., 
and opened 22nd May, 1854. 





2fi4 XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 

PALL MALL. A spacious street extending from the foot 
of St. James’s Street to the foot of the Haymarket, and so 
called from a game of that name introduced into England in 
the reign of Charles I,, perhaps earlier. James I., in his 
“ Basilicon Doron,” recommends it as a game that Prince 
Henry should use. The name (from Pcdla a ball, and Maglia 
a mallet) is given to avenues and walks in other countries, as 
at Utrecht in Holland. The Malls at Blois, Tours, and Lyons 
are mentioned by Evelyn in his Memoirs,” under the year 
1644. Pepys mentions “ Pell Mell” for the first time under 
the 26th of July, 1660, whei'e he says, “ We went to Wood’s 
at the Pell Mell (our old house for clubbing), and there we 
spent till ten at night.” This is not only one of the earliest 
references to Pall Mall, as an inhabited locality, but one of 
the earliest uses of the word “ clubbing ” in its modern sig¬ 
nification of a Club; and additionally interesting, seeing that 
the street still maintains what Johnson would have called its 
** clubbable ” character. 

Eminent Inhabitants. —Dr. Sydenham, the physician, was 
living in Pall Mall from 1664 to 1689, when he died. He 
is buried in St. James’s Church. Mr. Fox told Mr. Rogers 
that Sydenham was sitting at his window looking on the 
Mall, with his pipe in his mouth and a silver tankard before 
him, when a fellow made a snatch at the tankard and 
ran off with it. ‘‘Hor was he overtaken,” said Fox, ‘'before 
he got among the bushes in Bond-street, and there they lost 
him.”—Nell Gwyn, from 1670 to her death in 1687, in a 
house on the “south side,’! with a garden towards the Park— 
now No. 79, Society for the Pi’opagation of the Gospel in Foreign 
Parts. The house, however, has been rebuilt since Nell in¬ 
habited it.—The great Duke of Marlborough, in Marlborough 
House.—George Psalmanazar had lodgings here on his first 
arrival, and here he was visited as an inhabitant of Formosa. 
—William, Duke of Cumberland, the hei*o of Culloden, in 
Schomberg House, in 1760.—Robert Dodsley, the bookseller, 
originally a footman. He opened a shop here in 1735, with the 
sign of“ Tully’s Head.”—Gainsborough, the painter, in the 
western wing of Schomberg House, from 1777 to 1783.—At 
the Star and Garter Tavern, William, fifth Lord Byron (d. 1798), 
killed (1765) his neighbour and friend, Mr. Chaworth, in what 
Avas rather a broil than a duel. The quarrel was a very foolish 
one—a dispute between the combatants, whether Lord Byron, 
AA^ho took no cai'e of his game, or Mr. Chaworth, Avho did, 
had most game on his manor. Lord Byron Avas tried and 
acquitted. 


XXXTT.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


265 


PALL-MALL. 


— United Service 
Club. 


Regent-street. Site of Carlton House. 


York 

Column. 


Pall-Mall was lighted with 
gas 28th Jan., 1807, and was the 
first street in London so lighted. 
The introducer of gas into Pall- 
Mall was Frederick Albert Winsor, 
a Gennan (d. 1830). 


James’s Square. 


Junior 
Carlton Club 


Army and Navy Club. — 


Biitish Institution, removed, 
1867. 

New Society of Painters in 
Water Colours. 


— Athenseum 
Club. 


St. James’s-street. 


— Travellers’ Club, by Barry. 
Tlie garden-front fine. 


— Reform Club. 


Carlton Club. 


Office of Secretary of State for 
War. 


Schomberg House. In the W. 
wing lived Gainsborough, the 
painter. 

79, Soc. for Prop, of the Gospel 
Site of Nell Gwyn’s house. 
Oxford and Cambridge Club. 


— Guards’ Club. 


Marlborough House. The great 
Duke of Marlborough died 
here. Residence of H.K.H. the 
Prince of Wales. 

St. James’s Palace. 














266 


XXXIl.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


PICCADILLY, a street consisting of shops and fashionable 
dwelling-houses running E. and W. from the top of the 
Haymarket to Hyde-park Corner. The earliest allusion to 
it is in Gerard, who observes in his Herbal (1596) “that the 
small wild buglosse grows upon the drie ditch bankes about 
Pickadilla.” The origin of the name is somewhat uncertain, 
but the most likely solution is, that it was so called after one 
Higgins, a tailor, who built it temp. James I., and who got 
most of his estate by pickadilles, a kind of stiff collar, much 
worn in England from 1605 to 1620. 

The first Piccadilly, taking the word in its modern accep¬ 
tation of a street, was a very short line of road, running no 
further W. than the foot of Sackville-street, and the name 
Piccadilly-street occurs for the first time in the rate-books of 
St. Martin’s, under the year 1673. Sir Thomas Clax'ges’s house, 
on the site of the present Albany, is described in 1675 as 
“ near Burlington House, above Piccadilly.” From Sackville- 
street to Albemarle-street was originally called Portugal- 
street, after Catherine of Braganza, Queen of Charles II., and 
all beyond was the great Bath-road, or, as Agas calls it (1560), 
“the way to Reding.” The Piccadilly of 1708 is described 
as “ a very considerable and publick street, between Coventry- 
street and Poi’tugal-street; ” and the Piccadilly of 1720 as 
“ a large street and great thoroughfare, between Coventry- 
street and Albemarle-street.” Poi*tugal-street gave way to 
Piccadilly in the reign of George I. That part of the present 
street, between Devonshire House and Hyde-park Corner, 
was taken up, as Ralph tells us, in 1734, by the shops and 
stone-yards of statuaries, just as the New-road is now. We 
may read the history of the street in the names of several of 
the surrounding thoroughfares and buildings. Albemarle- 
street was so called after Christopher Monk, second Duke of 
Albemarle, to whom Clarendon House was sold in 1675, by 
Laurence Hyde, Earl of Rochester, son of the gi-eat Lord 
Clarendon. Bond-street was so called after Sir Thomas 
Bond, of Peckham, to whom Clarendon House was sold by 
the Duke of Albemarle when in difficulties, a little before 
his death. Jermyn-street was so called after Henry Jermyn, 
Earl of St. Alban, who died 1683-4; Burlington House after 
Boyle, Earl of Burlington; Dover-street, after Hemy Jermyn, 
Lord Dover (d. 1708), the little Jermyn of De Grammoiit’s 
Memoirs; Bei'keley-street and Stratton-street, after John, 
Lord Berkeley of Stratton, Lord Deputy of Ireland in the 
reign of Charles II.; Clarges-street, after Sir Walter Clarges, 
the nephew of Ann Clarges, wife of General Monk; and 
Arlington-street and Bennet-street after Henry Bennet, Earl 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES, 


267 


of Arlington, one of the Cabal. Air-street was built in 1659, 
Sti’atton-street in 1693, and Bolton-street was, in 1708, the 
most westerly street in London. Devonshire House occupies 
the site of Berkeley House, in which the first Duke of 
Devonshire died (1707). Hamilton-place derives its name 
from James Hamilton, ranger of Hyde-park in the reign of 
Charles II., and brother of La Belle Hamilton. Halfmoon- 
street was so called from the Halfmoon Tavern. Coventiy 
House, No. 106, was built on the site of an old inn, called the 
Greyhound. Apsley House was called after Apsley, Earl of 
Bathurst, who built it late in the last century; and the 
Albany, from the Duke of York and Albany, brother of 
George IV. St. James’s Church (by Wren) was conseciuted 
on Sunday, the 13th of July, 1684. The sexton’s book of 
St. Martin’s infoimis us that the White Bear Inn was in 
existence in 1685; and Strype, in his new edition of Stow, 
that there was a White Horse Cellar in Piccadilly in 1720. 
The two Corinthian pilasters, one on each side of the Three 
Kings Inn gateway in Piccadilly, belonged to Clarendon 
House, and are, it is thought, the only remains of that edifice. 

Sir William Petty, our first writer of authority on political 
arithmetic, died in a house over against St. James’s Church 
(1687). Next but one to Sir William Petty, Verrio, the 
painter, was living in 1675. In the dark-red-brick rectory 
house, at the N. side of the church, pulled down 1848, and 
immediately rebuilt (now No. 197), lived and died Dr. Samuel 
Clarke, rector of St. James’s, from 1709 till his death in 1729. 
Here he edited Ca3sar and Homer; here he wrote his Scrip¬ 
ture Doctrine of the Trinity, and his Treatise on the Being 
and Attributes of God. In Coventry House, facing the 
Green Park, corner of Engine-street (now the Ambassadors’ 
Club), died, in 1809, William, sixth Earl of Coventry, married, 
in 1752, to the eldest of the three beautiful Miss Gunnings. 
In what was then No. 23. now the first house E. of Hertford 
House, died (1803) Sir William Hamilton, collector of the 
Hamiltonian gems, but more generally known as the husband 
of Nelson’s Lady Hamilton. From No. 80 Sir Francis 
Burdett was taken to the Tower, April 6th, 1810 ; the officer, 
armed with an arrest-warrant, scahng the house with a ladder, 
and entering the window of the drawing-room, where Sir 
Francis was found instructing his son in Magna Charta, the 
street being occupied by the Horse Guards. No. 105, now the 
Marquis of Hertford’s, was the old Pulteney Hotel; here the 
Emperor of Russia put up during the memorable visit of the 
allied sovereigns in 1814 : and here the Duchess of Olden- 
burgh (the Emperor Alexander’s sister) introduced Prince 


268 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


Leopold to the Princess Charlotte. Lord Eldon’s house, 
at the corner of Hamilton-place, was built by his grand¬ 
father, Lord Chancellor Eldon, who died in it. Nos. 138 
and 139 were all one house in the old Duke of Queens- 
berry’s time. Here, in the balcony, on fine days in summer, 
he used to sit, a thin, withered old figure, with one eye, 
looking on all the females that passed him, and not dis¬ 
pleased if they I'eturned him whole winks for his single ones. 
He had been Prince of the Jockeys of his time, and was a 
voluptuary and millionnaire. “ Old Q.” was his popular 
appellation. At the late Duchess of Gloucester’s, at the 
corner of Park-lane, once Lord Elgin’s, where the Elgin 
marbles were placed on their first arrival in this country, 
is a very beautiful cai’pet in sixty squares, worked by sixty 
of the principal ladies among the aristocracy. No. 94 was 
formerly Egremont House, then Cholmondeley House, next 
Cambridge House, property of Sir T. Sutton, the ground 
landlord of half of Piccadilly, occupied by Lord Palmer¬ 
ston, 1863—65. The Duke of Cambridge, youngest son of 
George HI., died in this house. The bay-fronted house 
at the W. corner of Whitehorse-street was the residence 
of M. Charles Dumergue, the friend of Sir Walter Scott, 
was Scott’s head-quarters when in tovm. The London 
season of Lord Byi’on’s married life was passed in that half 
of the Duke of Queensberry’s house, now No. 139. {See 
Moore’s Life of Byron.) On the pavement opposite Lord 
AVilloughby d’Eresby’s, next but one W. to Hamilton-place, 
stood the Hercules Pillars public-house, where Squire Western 
put his horses up when in pui’suit of Tom Jones, and where 
that bluff brave soldier, the Marquis of Granby (d. 1770), 
spent many a happy hour. On the south side, facing Old 
Bond-street, was the shop of Wright, the bookseller, where 
Gifford assaulted by Peter Pindar got the better of him 
in the struggle. The house two doors E. of the Duke of 
Wellington’s was long the London residence of Beck ford, 
author of Vathek. 


XXXII.—PllINCrI’AL TlIOROUGHlj’ARES 

PICCADILLY. 


2ca 


St. George’s 
Hospital. 
Grosveuor-place. 

Entrance Archway, surmounted 
by Equestrian Statue of 
Duke of Wellington. 



In 1866 a house in Hamilton- 
place was sold for 25,000/. 


The Green Park. 


Arlington-strect. — 
No. 5, II. Walpole’s house. 

St. James’s-street. — 
Egyptian Hall. — 
Ludlam, hosier. — 

Toovey, Bookseller. — 
Duke-street. — 

Fortnum & Mason’s. — 
Ilatchard, Bookseller. — 
St. James’s Church. -1- 


W. 

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Hyde Park Corner. 


Apsley House. Duke of 
Wellington. 

— Hamilton-place, Baron Lionel 
Rothschild. Lord Chancellor 
Eldon d.(1838) in corner house. 
Lord Byron lived at No. 139, 

I called in his time 13, Picca- 
I dilly-terrace. 

— Park-lane, leading to Oxford- 

{ street. 

!— Down-street. Mi-s. Hope’s 
at the corner. 

— Engine-street. Hertford 

House. 

— Whitehorse-sti'eet. At west 
corner Sir Walter Scott 
lived when in town. 

— Half Moon-street. East comer 

house Madamed’Arhlay lived. 

— Clarges-street. 

— Bolton-street. Bath House. 

— Stratton-street. Corner house, 

Miss Burdett Coutts. 
Devonshire House. 

— Berkeley-street. 

— Dover-street. 

At Three Kings’ stables, re¬ 
mains of Clarendon House. 

— Albemarle-street. 

— Bond-street. In No. 41, died 

Sterne. 

— Burlington Arcade. 

Burlington House, 

— Albany (let in chambers.) 

— Sackville-street. 

— Swallow-street. Scottish 

Church. 

— Air-street. 

— Swan & Edgar, drapers. 







270 


XXX] I.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


ST. JAMES’S STREET commences at St. James’s Palace 

and extends to Albemarle-street. 

» 

“ The Campus Martius of St. James’s-street 
Where the beaus’ cavalry pace to and fro, 

Before they take the field in Rotten Row.” 

B, B. Sheridan. 

Ohsci've .—East side. White’s Club-house, Nos. 37 and 38 ; 
Boodle’s Club-house, No. 28; and on the west side, Crock- 
ford’s, now the Wellington Dining Rooms; Brooks’s Club¬ 
house, No. 60; Arthur’s, No, 69; Conservative Club, No, 85 ; 
Thatched House Tavern, containing three portraits, two very- 
fine, by Sir Joshua Reynolds. Eminent Inhabitants. —Waller, 
the poet, from 1660 till the period of his death (1687), in a 
house on the west side. Pope, in “lodgings at Mr. Digby’s, 
next door to y® Golden Ball, on y® Second Terras in St. 
James’s-street.” Gibbon, the historian, died, 1794, in No. 
76 (S. corner of Little St. James’s-street), then Elmsley the 
bookseller’s, now the site of the Conservative Club. Lord 
Byron, in lodgings, at No 8, in 1811. 

“ When we were on the point of setting out from his lodging in St. 
James’s-street [to go to Sydenham to Tom Campbell’s], it being then 
about mid-day, he said to tlie servant, who was shutting the door of the 
vis-Ji-vis, ‘Have you put in the pistols?’ and was answered in the 
affirmative.”— Moore's Life of Byron. 

Gillray, the caricaturist (d. 1815), in No. 29, over what was 
then the shop of Messrs. Humphrey, the print-sellers and 
publishers. He threw himself out of an upstairs window, 
and died of the injuries he received. In this street Blood 
made his desperate attack on the great Duke of Ormond, 
when on his way home between 6 and 7 in the evening 
(Tuesday, Dec. 6th, 1670), to Clarendon House, at the top of 
St. James’s Street, where he then resided. The six footmen 
who invariably attended the duke, walking on both sides of 
the street, over against the coach, were by some conti’ivance 
stopped, or by some mismanagement were not in the way, 
and the duke w'as dragged out of his carriage, buckled to a 
person of great strength, and actually carried past Berkeley 
House (now Devonshire House) in Piccadilly, on the road to 
Tybum, whei’e they intended to have hanged him. The 
coachman drove to Clarendon House, told the porter that his 
master had been seized by two men, who had carried him 
down Piccadilly. A chace was immediately made, and the 
d uke discovered in a -violent stniggle in the mud with the 
villain he was tied to, who regained his horse, fired a pistol 
at the duke, and made his escape. 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL 'THOROtiGHFARES, 


271 


ST. JAMES’S STREET. 


S2, Duke of Hamilton. 
20, Marq. of Salisbury. 


17> Earl of Yarborough. 
Pictures. • 


N. 

I 

W.—j—E. 

S. 


Pipcadilly. 

1 

Horace Crockford’s, 

« Walpole now Wel- 
2: lived. lington 
ft Eating House. 


Piccadilly. 


— White’s Club House. 


to 


Jermyn-street. 


c'O 

fi S3 
« O 

oS M 

m O 

o o 

.2 « 

oQ 
2 (3 


Brooks’s Club — 


Site where Sir Rich. 
Steele lived. 


Gillray, the caricaturist, killed 
himself from window of No. 29. 


22, House of 
the late Mr. 
Rogers (Poet). 


J j Old Cocoa-tree Club. — 


Ryder-street. 

r 


J L 


St. James’s-place. 


King-street. 


Spencer House. 

No. 69, Arthur’s Club. ■ 

No. 85, Conservative Club - 
In a house on this site died 
Gibbon, the historian. 


Willis’s Rooms. 


— No. 8, Lord Byron's lodgings 
in 1811. 


Pall Mall 


St. James’s Palace. 


































272 


XXXU.—I'RINCIPAL THOKOUGIIFAKES. 


REGENT STREET. One of the most handsome streets 
in the metropolis, was designed and carried out by Mr, John 
Nash, architect, under an Act of Parliament obtained in 
1813, partly at his own cost. It was intended as a com¬ 
munication from Carlton House to the Regent's Park, and 
cut through St. Alban’s-street, facing Carlton House, thence 
through St. James’s Market across Piccadilly to Castle-street, 
where it forms a Quadrant, intersecting Swallow-street, and 
then, taking the line of Swallow-street (the site of which is 
about the centre of Regent-street), it crosses Oxford-street 
to Foley House, where it joins Portland-place. The 
reason for adopting this line was that gi’eat part of the 
property belonged to the Crown. Langham-place Church 
was built by Nash as a termination to the view up Regent- 
street from Oxford-street. For this purpose the tower and 
spire are advanced forward to the centre line of the street, 
and appear almost isolated from the church. In his designs 
for Regent-street, Mr. Nash adopted the idea of uniting 
several dwellings into a single fa 9 ade, so as to preserve a 
degree of continuity essential to architectural importance ; 
and, however open to criticism many of these designs may 
be, when considered separately, it cannot be denied that he 
has produced a vai’ied succession of architectural sceneiy, 
the effect of which is picturesque and imposing, certainly 
superior to that of any other portion of the metropolis, and 
far preferable to the naked brick walls then universally 
forming the sides of our streets. The perishable nature of 
the brick and composition of which the houses in this street 
are built gave I’ise to the following epigram 

Augustus at Rome was for building renown’d, 

And of marble be left what of brick he had found; 

But is not our Nash, too, a very great master ?— 
lie finds us all brick and he leaves us all plaster." 

QnarUrly Beview for June, 1826. 


REGENT STREET AND WATERLOO PLACE. 

All Souls’, Langham-place. 
Nash, architect. 


Poljtechmc Institution.- 


National Institute of Fine Arts 


Oxford-st. Oxford-st, 


Hanover Chapel.C.R.Cockerell, + 
architect. 

Verrey, confectioner and — 
restaurant; good, 

Hanover-street. — 
Lewis and Allonby, drapers. — 
N 


W — 


— E 


S 


Conduit-street. — 


New Burlington-street.— 

[The house of Rt. Hon. Fredk.— 
Robinson, Chancellor of Ex 
chequer, in Old Burlington-street, 
was more than once attacked by 
the mob during the Corn Riots of 
1815, the railings torn up, win¬ 
dows and doors split open; and 
on March 6 one of the assailants 
was shot by soldiers posted 
within]. 

Newman’s stables, horses on the — 
first, second, and third floors. 

Vigo-street, leading to Albany 
and IBond-street. 


St. James’s Hall and Restaurant.— 


— Mayall, photographer. 

— Argyll-street. Marlbro’-atreet. 

— Williams, photographer. 


— Archbishop Tenison’s Chapel. 


Nicoll, tailor. 

Mecbi, razors and agriculture. 
Marylebone-street. 


fiwau and Edgar, good mercers, &c. —' 



Piccadilly. Piccadilly. 


Jermyn street. — 
Carlton Club Chambers. — 
Regent-street Chapel. Repton, arch. — 

Howell and James, mercers. 
Maurigy's Hotel, Charles-street. — 


—Jermyn-street. 

— Gallery of Illustration, 
formerly house of Nash 
the architect. 

-Junior Unit. Ser. Club. 

- Charles-street. 


PalMIall. Pall-. Mull: 


T 













274 


XXXIT.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES, 


HOLBORN”, OR OLDBOURNE. A main thorouglifare 
running east and west, between Di-ury-lane and Farringdon- 
street. From Drury-lane to Brook-street is called “ High 
Holboi’n; ” from Brook-street to Fetter-lane, “ Holborn 
and from Fetter-lane to Farringdon-street, Holborn Hill." 
At Brook-street stood “ Holborn Bars,” marking the ter¬ 
mination of the City Liberties in that direction; and at 
Farringdon-street stood a stone bridge over the Fleet, called 
“ Oldbourne Bridge.” It derives its name from Oldbourne, 
or Hilbourne, a burn or rivulet that broke out near Holborn 
Bars, and ran down the whole street to Oldbourne Bridge, 
and into the river of the Wells and Fleet Ditch. This was 
the old road from Newgate and the Tower to the gallows at 
Tyburn. Up the “ heavy hill ” went William, Lord Russell, 
on his way to the scaffold in Lincoln’s-Inn-fields. The same 
line of road from Aldgate to Tyburn was chosen for the 
whippings which Titus Oates, Dangerfield, and Johnson 
endured in the reign of James II. Gerard, who dates his 
Herbal (fol. 1597) “ From my house in Holborne, within the 
suburbs of London, this first of December, 1597,” had a 
good garden behind his house, and mentions in his Herbal 
many of the rarer plants which gi’ew well in it. 

The corporation of London receives a penny and two 
penny toll from the carts and carriages of non-freemen 
entering the city. These tolls are levied at the six bars, 
including Holborn-bars. The amount raised yearly is 
, between 50001. and 6000Z.; part of it was spent in the 
. formation of the street from Holborn-bildge to Clerkenwell- 
y green. The richest inlets are Temple-bar and Whitechapel- 
bar. 

To avoid the dangerous descent of Holborn-hill, a Viadtici 
and High-level Bridge over Farringdon-street was commenced 
from Newgate-street, Old Bailey, to Ely-place, 1867. William 
Heywood, engineer. The bridge is of cast iron, in three 
spans, on granite piers. 


XXXTI.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


275 



HOLBORN. 

Skinner-street, 
E. 


Victoria-street.—[ ^ Farringdon-street, covering the 


Viaduct over the valley begun— •'2 


Fleet Ditch. 


1867. 


Ely-place.— 

Se.e Ely Chapel. I ® 

Hatton-garden,— 


Leather-lane. — 


Furnival’s-Inn.- 
Brook-street. • 


i —Shoe-lane. 

* 

o -f St. Andrew’s, Holbom. Wren, 
5 I Dr. Sacheverel’s Church.—Savage, 
the poet, baptised in this church. 


Gray’s-Inn-lane. - 
Fox-court, (on right hand), birth¬ 
place of Savage, the poet. 

Fill wood’s-rents. — 


Red-Lion-street. — 


Kingsgate-street. — 
Southampton-row. — 
Southampton-street. — 



—Site of Holborn Bars, or limit of 
City Liberty without the walls. 

— Chancery-lane. 


— Great Turnstile. 


■ Fetter-lane. 


— Castle-street. 


New Hotel. 


« 53 


Lincoln’s-Inn- 

fields. 


■ Little Turnstile, 
• New Turnstile. 


— Little Queen-street. 

Down this street Lord Russell 
was led to the scaffold in Lin¬ 
coln’s Inn Fields. 


Museum-street, Drury-lane. 
leading to British Museum. W, 

Leading to Oxford-street. 


T 2 









276 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


STRAND. 

* 1 

Temple Bar. 

E. Child's Bank. 


The Strand was not paved until 
1532. As many as nine NisAops 
possessed inns or hostels on 
the water side of the Strand, 
at the Reformation. No traces 
of their houses but the names 
remain. (See Scott’S “For* 
tunes of Nigel.”) 


Wych-st., leading to Drury-lane. — 

Holywell-street. — 
Full of Jew-clothesmen 
and book-stalls. 


Catherine-street, leading to —• 
Brydges-street. 

Lyceum Theatre. — 


Burleigh-street. — 
Site of Exeter ’Change. 

Southampton-street. — 
Site of Bedford House. 

Adelphi Theatre. — 
Behind this Theatre is Maiden 
Lane, in which Andrew Marvell 
lived and Voltaire lodged. 


King William-.street. — 
Electric Telegraph Office. — 


Golden Cross. 


— Site of Essex House. 

— Devereux-court. Here was the 

Grecian Coffee-house. 


+ St. Clement’s Danes Church. 


Site of Arundel House. 


+ St. Mary-le-Strand Church. Site 
of Maypole, 

— Somerset House. Public office, 

— King’s College. 

— 141. Site of Jacob Tonson’sshop 
Wellington-street, leading to 
Waterloo Bridge. 

The Savoy was granted to Peter of 
Savoy, uncle of Henry III., 1245. 

— Savoy Chapel, down “ Savoy 
Steps.” Worth seeing. 

— Beaufort Buildings. Site of 
Worcester House. 

— Cecil-street. Site of Salisbury 
House and New Exchange. 

— Adam-st.:—leading to Adelphi 
Terrace, facing the River, 
in the centre house of which 
Garrick died. 

— Coutta & Co., Bankers. 

— Site of Durham House, where 
Sir Walter Raleigh lived. Go down 
Buckinjeham-street and see the 
Water Gate, all that remains of 
York House, built for Villiers, 
Duke of Buckingham. 

— Site of YorX House. Lord Bacon 
born here. 

r— Charing-cross Rail'^nv Station. 
Queen Eleanor’s Cios-a n-i-.i i-^d. 

— Northumberland House. 


W,- 

Clwving Cross, 




XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUCHFARES. 


277 


FLEET STREET. 

Viaduct of London, Chatham and Dover Railway, 
over Ludgate Hill. 


Fleet ditch, now a sewer, under 
Farringdon-street. Fleet-st. 
is named from the Fleet, a 
stream which became a ditch 
and open sewer—now covered. 

It entered the Thames near 
Blackfriars bridge. On its 
banks stood the Fleet prison, 
now the London, Chatham, 
and Dover goods station. 

Shoe-lane, leading to llolhorn. — 

Bolt-court. — 
Dr. Johnson died here. 


Crane-court—Scottish Hospital; — 

Old Meeting Room of Royal 
Society, when Sir Isaac 
Newton was President. 

Fetter-lane, leading to Ilolbom. — 
Peele’s Coffee House; — 
Newspapers filed here. 


Church of St. Dunstan’s in -f 
the West. Shaw, architect. 
Crown Life Insurance. — 
Here the Fire of London stopped. 

Chancery-lane. — 
Seven doors up, on 
the left, lived 
Isaak Walton. 


Cock Tavern. — 
Famous for Stout. 


— Bridge-street, Blackfriars. 

— Bride-lane, leading to Bridewell 

Hospital. 

+ St. Bride’s Church. 

Built by Wren. 

— To Salishuiy-square, 

In which Richardson, the novelist, 
lived. 


— Bouverie - street, leading to 

Whitefriars and Alsatia. 

— Serjeants’ Inn. 


— Site of Mitre Tavern. Resort 
of Dr. Johnson and Boswell. 


— Iloare’s Banking House. 


— Inner - Tebiple - gate, leading 

to Temple Church: at W. 
corner house, Pope and War- 
burton first met. 

— Rainbow Tavern. Famous for 

Stout. 

— Middle-Temple-gate. 


— Child’s Banking House. 

Oldest Banking House in London. 
Site also of Devil Tavern. 


E. 


W. 

Temple Bar. 






278 


XXXII.—rillNClFAL THOROUGIJFAKES. 


CHEAPSIDE, or Cheap. A street between the Poultry (E.) 
and St.Paul’s (W.), a continuation of the line from Charing Cross 
to the Royal Exchange, from Holbom to the Bank of England. 
This street, one of the most frequented thoroughfares in 
London, was famous in former times for its “ Ridings,” its 
Cross,” its “ Conduit,” and its “ Standard,” and, still later, 
for its silk-mercers, linen-drapers, and hosiers. 

The last Lord Mayor’s pageant, devised by the City poet, 
and publicly perfonned (Elkanah Settle was this last City 
poet), was seen by Queen Anne in the first year of her reign 
(1702) “from a balcony in Cheapside.” The concluding plate 
of Hogarth’s “Industry and Idleness” represents the City 
procession entering Cheapside—the seats erected on the occa¬ 
sion and the canopied balcony, hung with tapestry, containing 
Frederick, Prince of Wales, father of George III., and his 
Princess, as spectators of the scene. 

Observe .—Church of St. Mary-le-Bow {see Sect, xiv.); 
Saddlers’ Hall, next Ho. 142 : here Sir Richard Blackmore, 
the poet, followed the profession of a physician. Ho. 90, 
corner of Ironmonger-lane, was the shop of Alderman Boydell 
(d. 1804). Before he removed here, he lived “at the Unicorn, 
the corner of Queen-street, in Cheapside, London.” Before 
the present Mansion-house was built in 1737, Ho. 73 was 
used occasionally as the Lord Mayor’s Mansion-house. 


XXXil.—PRIN CIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


279 


CHEAPSIDE AND 

E. 


POULTRY. 

Mansion Houss. 


St. Mildred in the Poultiy. 


Site of Poultry Compter. —, 
Grocers’ Hall, — 


Old Jewry. 


Mercers’ Hall, behind which ■ 
Thomas Becket, Archbishop 
of Canterbury, was born. 

King-street, leading to the — 
Guild-Hall. 


Laurence-lane. — 


Bucklersbury, leading to the 
beautiful church of St. 
Stephen’s, Walbrook, one of 
Wren’s greatest works. 


Queen-street, leading to South¬ 
wark Bridge. 


St. Mary-le-Bow Church. The 
spire is one of Wren’s great 
masterpieces, {set Sect. xiv). 


Milk-street, Sir Thomas More — 
bom in. 


- Bread-street. 

Milton born in. Here stood the 
Mermaid Tavern, frequented by 
Shakspeare, Raleigh, Ben Jonson. 


Wood-street. — 


— Friday-street. 


Gutter-lane. — 


— Old Change. 


General Post Office. —I — 

W. St. Paul’s Church-yard. 


Near St. Paul’s was Bishop Bonner's Coal Hole, one of the worst 
prisons in which the victims of the Popish Persecution under 
Queen Mary were shut up. 




280 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


CORNHILL. 

Near the junction of Cornhill and Leadenhall-street stood 
the ^‘Standard/' built 1682, for distributing water brought 
from the Thames by a forcer, invented by Peter Morris, a 
Dutchman. Distances along many of the high roads out of 
London were measured from it. 


Bishopsgate-st., leading to 
Shoreditch. 


c3 

.a 

a 


E. 


Gracechurch-st,, leading to 
London Bridge. 


Cornhill, so called, from a — 
corn market “time out of 
mind there holden.” 


Finch-lane. — 
Joe’s Chop-house, good. 

Ned’s Chop-house, excellent. 


Site of Freeman’s-court, 
in which De Foe lived. 


Royal Exchange. — 


* Bank of England — 
Princea-street. 


— St. Peter’s, Church 

— St. ISIichael’s, Church. 

— St. Michael’s-alley. 

— No. 41, Gray the poet was horn 

1716, in a house on this site. 

— Birchin-lane. 

” Change-alley. 

— Pope’s Head-alley 

— Lombard-street. 

St. Mary Woolnoth Ch. 

Mansion House. 






XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


281 


DRURY LANE. 


‘ O may thy virtue guard thee through 
the roads 

Of Drury’s mazy courts and dark 
abodes 1 

The harlots’ guileful paths, vrho 
nightly stand 

Where Catherine-street descends in¬ 
to the Strand."—Gay’s " Trivia.” 


Broad-street, St. Giles’s. 


Drury-lane, so called from the — 
town house of the Drury 
family. It lost its aristo¬ 
cratic character early in the 
reign of Wm. III. 


Long Acre, leading to — 
Leicester-square. 


Little Russell-strcet, leading — 
to Coyent-garden, Druiy-lane 
Theatre, &c. 


Russell-court, footway from — 
City to Coyent-garden. 


Site of Nell Gwynn’s lodging, — 
where Pepys saw her “ stand¬ 
ing at her lodgings’ door, in 
her smock-sleeves and bodice,” 
watching the milkmaids on 
May-day, 1667. 


Strand. 


ri 

.2 a 

•c « 

pq 2 


Holborn. 




Coal-yard, birth-place of 
Nell Gwynn. 


Charles-street alias Lewknor’s- 
lane, long a notoriously 
bad part of London. 


Great Queen-street, leading 
to Lincoln’s-inn-fields. 


Pit-place, properly Cockpit- 
place, site of Cockpit Theatre 
(the first Drury-lane Theatre). 


Prince’s-street, leading to 
Lincoln’s-Inn-fields. 

Scene of seizure of Mrs. Brace¬ 
girdle by Lord Mohun. 


Craven-buildings, site of Craven 
House, in which the Queen of 
Bohemia died (d. 1662). 



St. Mary-le-Strand Church. 













282 


XXXII,—PRlKCirAL THOllOUUlli’AKES. 


CHANCERY LANE. 



Holborn. Holborn. 


N 


W- 


-E 


The great Loi-d Strafford was 
born 1695, in the bouse of his 
mother’s father, Mr. Robert 
Atkinson, a bencher of Lin¬ 
coln’s Inn. 


Gateway to Lincoln’s-Inn, of- 
the age of Henry VIII. (1518). 


Union Bank— 
Carey-street.— 


Law Institution and Club.- 


Izaak Walton lived in the 7th 
house from Fleet-st., 1627-44. 


Temple Bar 


—Southampton-buildings. 


—Cursitor-street. 

—Rolls House and Chapel. 


In Rolls chapel is a very fine monu¬ 
ment, Italian work, XVIth century, 
perhaps by Torregiano, to Dr. Y ouug, 
whose recumbent effigy is finely 
modelled in terra cotta, while at the 
back appears the head of the Saviour, 
with a cherub on each side. The 
Rolls of the Court of Chancery were 
formerly kept in iron presses round 
this chapel, extending even behind 
the altar. Adjoining is the residence 
of the Master of the Rolls. 


—New Record office. 

I 

—Serjeants’ Inn. 


Jacob Tonson the 
first shop, 1694. 


bookseller’s 


Fleet-street. Fleet-street. 












XXXil.—FUINCirAL THOROUGHFARES. 


283 


OXFOKD STREET. A Hue of tliorouglifare, one mile and 
a half long, between St. Giles's Pound and old Tyburn (now 
Cumberland Gate), so called from its being the liighway 
from London to Oxford. In 1708 it was known as Tyburn- 
road. It is, however, somewhat uncei'tain when it was first 
formed into a continuous line of street, and in what year it 
was first called Oxford-street. New Oxford-street, opened 
for carriages March 6th, 1847, occupies the site of the 

Rookery ” of St. Giles, through whicli it was driven at a 
cost of 290,227(J. 4s. 10c?., of which 113,963?. was paid to the 
Duke of Bedfoi'd alone for freehold purchases. All that re¬ 
mained, in the autumn of 1849, of this infamous Rookery (so 
called as a place of resort for sharpers and quarrelsome 
people) was included and condensed in ninety-five wi'etched 
houses in Church-lane and Carrier-street, wherein, incredible 
as the fact may appear, no less than 2850 pex'sons w'ere 
crammed into a space of gi’ound between 1 and 1^ acre in 
area. In these noisome abodes nightly shelter, at 3c?. per 
head, might be obtained. 

The long avenue of street, formerly called NEW ROAD, 
is a continuation of the City-road, leading to the Regent’s 
Park, St. John’s-wood, and the Edge ware-road. It was 
planned in 1754, and opened about 1758. Observe. —St. 
James’s Chapel, Pentonville (on the north side); here R. P. 
Bonington, the painter, is buried.—St. Pancras New Church. 
—Holy Trinity Church, Marylebone.—St. Marylebone New 
Church. 

CITY ROAD. A crowded thoroughfare—a continuation 
of the Euston-road, running from the Angel at Islington to 
Finsbury-square ; opened 1761; Mr. Dingley, the projector, 
who gave it the name of the City-road, modestly declining 
to have it called after his own name. Observe. — John 
Wesley’s chapel and grave, immediately opposite Bunhill- 
fields Burial-ground. 

“Great multitudes assembled to see the ceremony of laying the founda¬ 
tion, .*50 that Wesley could not, without much difficulty, get through the 
press to lay the first stone, on which his name and the date were inserted 
on a plate of brass. ‘ This was laid by John Wesley, on April 1, 1777.’ 
Probably, says he, this will be seen no more by any human eye, but will 
remain there till the earth, and the works thereof are burnt up.”— 
Southey’s Life of Wesley, ii. 385. 


284 


XXXIl.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


BOW STREET, COVENT GARDEN, 

Bo called from running in the shape of a bent bow. 


Long Acre. 


Long Acre. 


Covent Garden Theatre, or—* 
Royal Italian Opera. 

On the site of this theatre 
lived Dr. Radcliffe, Wycherley, 
and many other wits, from 1646 
to 1735. 

Bow-street Police Office. Here — 
Fielding wrote his Tom Jones. 


Site of Will’s Coffee-house. — 
Great Rnssell-street. 


~ Upper house, comer of King’s 
j Arms-court, lived Grinling 

I Gibbons. 


N 


W — 


-E 


I 


Great Russell-street. 


GREAT QUEEN STREET, LiNCOLN'S-INN-FIELDS. 

Lincoln’s-Inn-fields., 


So called in compliment to Hen¬ 
rietta Maria, Queen of Chas. I. 

Little Queen-street, leading to — 
Holbom. 

Down this street Lord Russell was 
led to the scaffold in Lincoln’s- 
Inn-fields. 


The whole of the north side was 
built a century later than the 
south. 



Drury-lane. 


House of Lord Chancellor Somers 
and the Minister Duke of New¬ 
castle, temp. George II. 

The whole of the south side was 
originally built by Inigo Jones, 
and from 1630 to 1730 was one of 
the most fashionable localities 
in London — the houses com¬ 
manding a fine view of Holborn- 
fields. Great Marlborough-st., 
a century later, was similarly 
situated with respect to Oxford- 
street. In one of these houses 
Lord Herbert of Cherbury died. 
In another Sir Godfrey Kneller 
lived for the last twenty years 
of his life. The large red-brick 
house, with an ai’ch-way under 
it (now Nos. 55 and 56) was the 
house of Hudson, the portrait- 
painter, and master of Sir Joshua 
Reynolds. 


Drury-lane. 



















XXXIT.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


285 


CHARING CROSS TO WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 


Drummond’s Bank. 


Admiralty, 


N, 


2 « 

oS, 

o 2 

V 4^ 

9 ' 

^ O 
S a 



— Northumberland House. 

— Craig’s-court. 

Cox and Greenwood’s, 


— Scotland Yard. 

Metropolitan Police-station. 


Pajrmaster-Gen.’s office, 


Horse Guards. 

Office of the Com.-in-Chief. 


Treasury. 

Office of the Prime Minister, 

Site of Cockpit, in which 
Oliver Cromwell lived. 
Chancel, of the 
Exchequer. 

Colonial Office. 

New Public 
OflBces. 

Forelsm Office. 

India OflBce. 


Downing-st. 


tj M _ 

35 ® ' 

XT! 

W g 

oO 


Whitehall Banqueting-house, 
built by Inigo Jones, 


- Privy Gardens. 

Sir R, Peel’s house. 

-Montague House. 
Duke of Buccleuch. 


Richmond-terr.—Site of Duchess 
of Portsmouth’s lodgings. 


In this street died, for 
lack of bread, 
Spenser, author of the 
“ Faerie Queene.” 



—Westminster Club, 


Great George-street. 


To Westminster Bridge. 


S. 


Cannon-street. 



















28(5 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


HAYMARKET, 

So called from a Market of Hay formerly kept there. 
-N.- 


Between Haymarket, Coventry- 
street and Regent-street at 
night is a resort of the worst 
company in London, male and 
female.—See Dickens’s House¬ 
hold Words, 


The W. side is chiefly occupied 
by Restaurants, Taverns, Pub¬ 
lic-houses, & Shell-fish shops. 
The Blue Posts has been a 
tavern for nearly two centuries. 
Quin’s is the best oyster-shop 
in the Haymarket. 


Charles-street. — 


Her M.ajesty’s Theatre, or old 
Italian Opera House. 


Pall-Mall. 


Coventry-street. 


— Coventry-court. Site of Picca¬ 
dilly Gaming House and of 
Coventry House, residence of 
Secretary Coventry, sec, to 
Charles II. 


— Panton-street. In a garret in 
one of these houses, Addison 
wrote his " Campaign.” 


— James-street. 


— Cafd de I’Europe. 


— Haymarket Theatre. 


— Snflblk-street. 


Pall-Mall. 


Piccadilly. 


S. 










XXXIT.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


287 


GROSVENOR PLACE, 

So called from the Grosvenor family, the ground landlord?, 
and built 1767—Rebuilt, 1860—1856. 


Hyde-park Comer.—j 


St. George’s Hospital, Wilkins — 
architect. 


Grosvenor-crescent,Halkin-street,' 
leading to —Belgrave-square. 1 


Chapel-street. — 


Grosvenor-place houses. — 
Ko. 2, Sir Anthony Rothschild. — 
No. 3, Earl Stanhope. — 


I—Apsley House. 
^ Piccadilly. 


— Footway to Constitution-hill. 
Near this Sir Robert Peel met 
with his fatal accident. 


— Garden wall of Buckingham 
Palace. 

The houses in Grosvenor-place 
overlook Buckingham Palace 
gardens, and were built during 
the Grenville administration; 
Grenville, to vex King George 
III., refusing to purchase the 
site. 


Queen’s Summer House, on 
Mount concealing the Mews 
from the Palace. 


Lower Grosvenor-place.. 












288 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


PARK LANE. 


The S.W. corner of Edgeware 
Road, close to Arklow House, 
is the site of Tyburn Gallows, 
and burial-place of Oliver 
Cromwell. 


1 


a 

o 


Oxford-Street. 


Marble Arch, 
from Buckingham Palace. 


Grosvenor Gate. 


HYDE PARK. 

The whole of the railings of 
Hyde Park were torn down by 
a lawless mob, led on by one 
Beales and the Reform League, 
on July 23,1866. 


Dorchester House. Vnlliamy, 
Architect. Built for Mr. Hol- 
ford. Fine Pictures and Library. 

Stanhope Gate.— 


— Camelford House. Where the 

Princess Charlotte and Prince 
Leopold lived. 

— Green-street: at No. 56, died 

Rev. Sydney Smith. 

— Lord Ward. Paintings by 

Raphael, &c. 

— Upper Grosvenor-street. 

— Gi’osvenor House. Lord West¬ 

minster. Gallery of Paint¬ 
ings. 

— Mount-street. 


— South-street. 


— Stanhope-street. Chesterfield 
House, facing the Park. 


— Holdernesse House. Earl Vane, 


Gloucester House. — — 

Piccadilly. 











XXXU.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


289 


NEWGATE STREET. 


General Post Office. 

St. Martin’s-le-Grand. 


— Panyer-alley. (Curious sculp¬ 
ture in.) 


Bath-street (Old Bagnio), in — 
time of Charles II. 


Bull-Head-court. — 
Bas-relief of William Evans and 
Sir J effrey Hudson. 


King-Edward-street, formerly — 
Butcher-hall-lane. 


Passage leading to Christ’s — 
Hospital. 


Christ’s Hospital, New Hall. — 


—Queen’s-Head-passage. (Dolly’s 
Chop-house in.) 


Ivy-lane. (Site of Dr. Johnson’s 
Ivy-lane Club.) 


— Newgate Market. (The great 
Carcass-market of London. 


Site of Giltspur-street 
Compter, pulled down 1855. 


Pye-comer. 

Here Fire of Lon- Giltspur-street. 
don stopped. 


In Bell-inn, died, 1634, 
Archbishop Leighton. 


— Warwick-lane. (Site of Old 
College of Physicians, built by 
Wren. Observe .—Effigy of 

Guy on W. wall of lane.) 

Newgate. 


Old Bailey. 


o 

St. X 

CO 

O 

o 

Sepulchre’s 


1 

Church. 

B 

s 


o 


W.' 


U 




















290 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROTTGIIFARES. 


ALDERSGATE STREET. 


-N.- 

Wilderness-row. Old-street-road. 


Charter House. ■ 


Smithfield. 


Long-lane.— 


Albion Tavern, — 
famous for good dinners. 

London House, — 
formerly residence of Bishops of 
London. 

Westmoreland-buildings, — 
marking site of town-house of 
the Nevilles, Earls of West¬ 
moreland. 

Little Britain.— 
St. Botolph, Aldersgate.— 
Bull and Mouth street. — 

Money Order Office— 


Newgate-street. 


—Site of Pistol’s “ Manor of Pict- 
hatch.” 


— Barbican. 


— Lauderdale-buildings, marking 

site of Lauderdale House, 
town-house of Duke of Lauder¬ 
dale, temp. Chas. II. 

— Shaftesbury House, built by 

Inigo Jones for the Earl of 
Thanet. Here lived Lord 
Chancellor Shaftesbury, temp. 
Chas. II. 


Here stood Aldersgate—one of 
the gates in the old city walls. 


General Post-office. 


Cheapside. 


St. Paul’s. X 

S. 


« 















XXXII.—PRINCIPAL TnOROUGIIFARES. 


291 


FISH-STREET HILL, GRACECHURCH STREET, AND 
BISHOPSGATE-STREET. 

St, Botolpli, Bishopsgate. Hoimdsditdi. 


Bull Inn, used as a stage (Leforc 
theatres were erected) by Tarl- 
ton and Burbage; here Hob¬ 
son, the carrier, put up. 

South Sea House. — 

Threadneedle-st. - 
St. Martin’s Outwich. - 
London Tavern, celebrated for - 
good dinners. 


N Cornhill. ■ 

Omnibuses for Sur-^— 

-E rey and Kent start 

from both sides of 
g street. 

At the Cross Keys, in the reign- 
of Queen Elizabeth, Bankes 
exhibited his horse, Morocco. 

Lombard-st. — 

White-Hart-court. Fox, founder- 
of the Quakers, died in. 

Nag’s-Head-court, M. Green,- 
the poet, died in. 

King William-street.— 

Statue of William IV. marks 
the site of Boar’s Head Ta¬ 
vern in Eastcheap. 


Arthur-street. Here stood a — 
stone house in which Edward 
the Black Prince was lodged. — 




• Here stood Bishopsgate, one of 
the gates in London-wall, 


— St. Helen’s Bishopsgate. 

-Crosby Hall. Good perpendi¬ 
cular building, temp. Hen. VIII. 
- Wesleyan Centenary Hall. 


— Leadenhall-street. 


O 


— Fenchurch-street, 

— St. Bennet, Gracechurch. 


Little Eastcheap. 


— The Monument—202 feet from 
v/hicli the Fire of London 
began. 


j— St, Magnus, by Sir C, Wren. 
The Thames. 

Site of old London Bridge. 







292 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


UPPER AND LOWER THAMES STREET. 

Tho Tower. 


St. Dunstan’s-hill. 

St, Dunstan’s, by Wren. 

St. Mary-at-IIill. 
Coal Exchange. — 


Pudding-lane. Fire of London — 
began. 

Fish-street-bill. — 


King William-street. — 
E _ 


N — — S 


W 

Suffolk-lane. — 
Merchant Taylors’ School. — 


Dowgate. 


College-hill. — 
St. Michael’s, College-hill, by 
Wren. 

St. James’s Garlichithe, by + 
Wren. 


St. Michael’s, Queenhithe, by 
Wren. 


i 

XI 

H 

u 

K 

c. 

Li 


—- Custom-house. 


— Billingsgate Market. 


— Steamboats down river for 

Greenwich, Woolwich, Black- 
wall, &c. 

— Site of Old London Bridge. 

— St. Magnus, by Wren. 

'— London Bridge. 

— Fishmongers’ Hall. 

— Old Shades, famous for its wines. 


— Steamboats up river to Black- 

friars, Chelsea, &c. 

All Hallows the More; hand¬ 
some screen, presented by 
Hans merchants. 

— Cannon-street Terminus of S.E. 

Railway, occupies the site of 
tlie Steel-yard, or Hall of the 
Hans Merchants, 1250—1550. 

— Three Cranes in the Vintry. 

— Southwark Bridge. 

— Vintners’ Hall, 

— Queenhithe, a quay or market, 

long the rival of Billingsgate, 


Bi’ead-street-hill, leading to — 
Cheapside. 

Old Fish-street-hill. 

X St. Mary Somerset. 

St. Bennet’s, Paul’s - wharf, — 
burial-place of Inigo Jones, 
leading to Heralds’ College, 
and Doctors’ Commons. 


— Site of Baynard Castle. The 
castle of Bainardus, the Nor¬ 
man associate of William 
the Conqueror, whose name 
suiwives also in Bayswater, 
i. e., Baynard’s Av^ater. 

— Puddle Dock. 


N— y I— Blackfriars Bridge. 
New Bridge-street, Blackfriars. 







XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


293 


HIGH-STREET, SOUTHWARK. 


River Thames. 


rS So 

§-a 


River Thames. 


St. Saviour’s, Southwark. + 

Site of Bishop of Winchester’s — 
Palace, near to which stood 
the Globe Theatre, in which 
Shakspeare acted. 


— Railway Stations of 5 separate 

lines; of Dover, Brighton, 
Greenwich, &c. 

Line of junction from London 
bridge to Charing-cross. 

Formerly 

— St. Thomas’s Hospital. 

— St. Thomas’s Church. 


— Guy’s Hospital. 


St. Margaret’s-hill.— 
N 


Site of Talbot Inn, the Tabard of 
Chaucer’s"Canterbury Tales.” 


W — 


— E 


S 


Union-street.— 


— King-street. 

Site of Marshalsea Prison, 
marked by house No. 119. 
Here many Protestant mar¬ 
tyrs suffered in the days of 
Queen Mary. 


The Mint; the Alsatia of— 
Southwark. 


+ St. George’s Church, Southwark, 
burial-place of Bishop Bonuer, 
Rushworth, and Cocker. 








294 


XXXII.—rRiNcir*\L TiioROuanrAREs. 


THE THAMES. 


From Battersea to Vaiixhall Bridge. 


Battersea 

X 

Battersea Church. Burial-place 
of Lord Bolingbroke. 


Battersea Park. 346 acres; 

16 acres of water; walks 
aud drives, with planta¬ 
tions. Cost £336,000. 

Red House, famous for pigeon 
shooting, stood here. 

X Steam Pier— 


It 


Cremorne Gardens. 

In the central cottage of three, 
near Cremorne Pier, J. M. \V. 
Turner, the landscape painter, 
d. 1851. 

Bridge. 


Site of Sir Thomas More's 
■cs house. 

X 

» Chelsea Old Church. Grave 
^ and Monument of Sir T. 
« More and Sir Hans Sloane. 

3 


Site of Chelsea Botanic Gardens, 
Cedar planted 1683. 



Chelsea Hospital. 


Gardens. 


Pimlico Suspension_ 

X 

Battersea Park Railway Station — 

anddouble Railway_ 

for Chatham and Dover,!_ 

Brighton, and other Lines—_ 

leading to Victoria Station. 


Bridge. 

Guards Barracks. 

Site of Ranelagh Gardt ns. 
Bridge. 

Gi'osvenor Canal Entrance. 


X 

St. Barnabas Church. 


X 

T. Cubitt’s House-building 
P actory. 


X 

Church of Holy Trinity, built 
at the expense of a Preben- 
daiy of Westminster. 


Vauxhall Bridge. 













XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES, 


295 


THE THAMES. ‘ 

From Yaiixhall Bridge to Hungerford Bridge. 
Vauxhall Bridge. 


Site of Vauxhall Gardens. — 
Vauihall Sta. of S. W. Railway— 


— Penitentiary. 

— Milbank. 


Lambeth Old Church. — 
Burial-place of Tradescant and I 
Ashmole. i 


Iron Wire Suspension Bridge. 


Lambeth Palace. —, 
Lollards’ Tower. — 


— St. John’s Church, West¬ 
minster. 


St. Thomas’s 
Hospital. 

Embankment. 


X 

Westminster Abbey. 


-- Houses of Parliament. 


_ Westminster Iron Bridge. 

Thames Embankment and Quay 
begins here. 


— Richmond-tecrace. 

— JMontagu House. 


—Privy Gardens, Whitehall. Hero 
Sir R. Peel died. 


— Whitehall Stairs. 

— Scotland Yard. 

—.Northumberland House. 


Hungerford Rail and Foot Bridge 











296 


XXXn*~PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


THE THAMES. 

From Hungerford Bridge to Blackfriars Bridge. 

Charing Cross or Hungerford Bridge. 

— Thames Embankment, continued. 



— Site of York House. 

— Water-gate, built by Nic. 

Stone, for Villiers, D. of 
Buckingham. 

— Adelphi-terrace — in centre 

house Garrick died. 

— Savoy. 

— Duchy of Lancaster Office. 

X South-Western Railway 
or Waterloo Station. 


Waterloo _ 

_ Bridge. 

— Somerset House. 

— King’s College. 

— Tower of St. Mary-le-Strand. 

— Site of Arundel House. 

— Tower of St. Clements’ Danes. 

Old Lambeth Marsh, now built 
over by Stamford-street. 

— Essex Pier and site of Essex 

House. 

— Middle Temple Hall. 

X Temple Church. 

— Temple Gardens. 

— Paper Buildings (red), Temple. 

— Whitefriars, or Alsatia. 

— Site of Salisbury House and 

Dorset House. 

Christ Church. 

— Fine spire of St. Bride’s, 
Wren. 

Site of Paris Garden. 

— Fleet Ditch or Sewer runs into 
the Thames. 


New Blackfriars Bridge. 

Alexandra Bridge for London Chatham and Dover Railway. 







XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 


297 


THE THAMES. 

From Blackfriars Bridge to London Bridge. 


Blackfriars Bridge. 

— X 

Times Newspaper Office. 

— SitQ of Blackfriars Theatre. 

— Site of Castle Baynard. 

— Large Flour Mill. 

X 

St. Paul’s. 

— Church of St. Bennet, Panl’s- 
wharf. Inigo Jones buried 
here. 

— Paul’s-wharf Pier. 

Fine view from river of the 
spires and towers of churches 
by Wren. The tallest and 
handsomest is Bow Church. 

Church of St. Michael’s, Queen- 
hithe. The ship at the top of 
the vane is capable of holding 
a bushel of grain, the great 
article of traffic still at 
Queerihithe. 

— Queenhithe 


Bankside—site of the old Theatres, 
the Bear Garden, &c. 

Barclay’s Brewhouse - 
Site of Globe Theatre, — 
Remains of Winchester Palace. 

X 

St. Saviours Church {see Sect. xiv). 


— Vintners’ all. 

Southwark Bridge. 

— Three Cranes in the Vintry. 


—Site of Guild of the Steelyard. 
Now Cannon-street Terminus, 
&c. 

— Steamboat Pier. 

— Shades, famous for its wine. 

— Fishmongers’ Hall. 


London Bridge 




298 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES, 


THE THAMES. 

From London Bridge to Blackwall. 
London Bridge. 

H 


See also p. 44, for further account 
of the River below London 
Bridge, 


Rotherhithe Church. 
Commercial Docks. 


Pier. 

Deptford Dock Yard. 


Greenwich Hospital. 

Greenwich 

Obseiwatory on hill. + 

Famous for f Trafalgar Tavern, 
fish dinners ( Crownand Scepti’e. 

Red Tower of Charlton Church — 


• • Site of Old London Bridge. 

— The Monument, 
j. — Fine Tower of St. Magnus. 

— Steam-boat Pier to Graveseud, 
Margate, and boats too largo 
for “ above bridge.” 

— Coal Exchange. 

? — Tower of London. 

— Ti-aitors’ Gate. 

The large square tower, with 
turrets, is called the “ White 
Tower.” 

— St. Katherine’s Docks. 

— London Docks. 

— Wapping. 

Thames Tunnel and Pier, 
connecting Wapping with 
Rotherhithe. 


Limehouse Church with flag 
staff on top of tower. 


— West India Docks. 


Isle of Dogs New Docks. Here 
the River is very serpentine. 

Millwall Iron Shipbuilding 
Yards. 


— Blackwall Railway Station. 

— Lovegrove’s Tavern, famous 

for fish dinners. 

— East India Docks. 

— Victoria Docks. 

— North Woolwich Railway. 









299 


O 


"V* ^ 


P3 

• 

o a 

. o 

W 

o' 


o W 
« 




Wulkei’-st. 


16, Sir Roderick 
Murchison. 


N. 


if' 


Ilalkin-st. 


BELGRAVE SQUARE. 

W. E. 

Built 1826—1833. 

Geo. Basevi, architect. 


46, D. of Montrose. 




S. 


,a a 

- i 


■1 





j" 


Upper ook-st. 


24,E. of Shaftesbury- 
23, Dowager Dss. of 
Cleveland. 


W. 


N. 

GROSVENOR 

SQUARE. 

Built 1720—1730. 


•-l 


E. 


Grosvenor-st. 


Both the Marquis of Rock¬ 
ingham and Lord North 
lived in this square when 
Prime Ministers. 


In 


S. 


-n I— 


7, Earl of Wilton. 
6, Joseph Neeld. 
Fine pictures. 


0.2 o 


^ * 

. O •'O 

I a ^ 

' '-'03^. 






^ ^ CJ oJ fcJL 




<5 


i -:.£2 












300 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL SQUARES, 


38, Ctss.of Jersey. 


Hill-street. 

42, Lcl. Broughton. 

43, Earl of Hadding¬ 
ton. 

44, Fine staircase 
by Kent. 

45, Earl of Powis. 
The ^eatLord Clive 
died in this house. 


o 

t 

m 

m 

n> 

’> 

a 

Q 


21, E. of Balcarres. 
Lady Ann Lindsay 
died in this house.) 

Bruton-street. 


Horace, Walpole 
died at No. 11. 
Gunter, celebrated 
for Ices. 

Hay Hill. 


H 


N. 

BERKELEY 

_ SQUARE. 

W. E. 

Built 1730—1740. 

Observe :—the large and vi¬ 
gorous Oriental planes. 

S. 


Lansdotvne House. 


■s 


(3 

<o 

o 

h-1 


eS 

p:) 


Upper Berkeley-st. Berkeley-street. 

The detached house in the N.W. comer was Mrs. Montagu’s. 
Here she held her blue-stocking parties, and gave her chim¬ 
ney-sweeps’ entertainment to the poor boys on May Day. 

N. 


PORTMAN 

SQUARE. 

W. E. 

Built 1790—1800. 

S. 


Upper Seymour-st. 


Seymour-street. 



"1 


4 

M) 

a 

0) 

a> 

*s 




CQ 


Ut 

03 

'2 

U 

o 

o 

o3 

CO 

O 

2 

u 

o 















XXXIl.—PRINCIPAL SQUARES. 


301 


London Library. 
Statistical Society. 

Lichfield House. 

Lord Castlereagh 
lived in corner 
house. 

King-street. 

17, D. of Cleveland. 

18, Sir W. Wynn. 

19, B. of Winchstr. 

Army and Navy 
Club. 


.a 

O o 






s 

O 

^ ss 



B 

oi 


•4-3 

U4 

PQ 

:§ 

.a-So 
rn . o 

<3) 

a> 

u 

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o 

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« 2 
* 

03 

A 

6* 



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H 

1 1 

«r 



N. 



ST, 

JAMES’S 



SQUARE. 

W. Built 1674 -1690. E, 
Statue of William III. 

S. 

I-1 


4, Earl de Grey. 
Fine Pictures. 

2, E. of Falmouth. 
Lon,&W es t. Bank. 

Charles-street. 
23, Earl of Derby. 

22, Bp. of London. 

21, Dk. of Norfolk. 
Geo.III. born here. 


"CJ 
o 
o 


tea 


Royal Academy of p 
Music. 

Tenterden-strect. 


Oriental Club. 


20, Earl of Lucan. 


Brook-street. 


1. 


^ w o 

O ^ . o 
• ® ^ o 

W « I* N 
eo" eT cc r-T 


-1 I- 

N. 

HANOVER SQUARE. 

Built 1720—1730. 

W. E. 

Statue of William Pitt, 
by Chantrey. 

S. 


Prince’s-street. 

Hanover-sq. rooms. 
Hire of Great 
Room, 10 guineas 
morn., 15 guineas 
evening.—OfLit- 
tleRoom,5&6gs., 
—gas and attend¬ 
ance included. 

Hanover-street. 


—I r 


J" 


o 

bO 


O 


o bo 

>% o 
^ ^ • 

OJ 

'c « a. 




















302 XXXTI.—PRINCIPAL SQUARES. 


J 


C 

OJ 

S 

C-i 
o " 

tH 

1 


The whole N. , 
side was to have « 
been occupied £ 
by the entrance “ 
to the town o 
house of the 'S 
magnificent D. § 
of Chandos. 3 

—I I-1 L 

N. 


W. side Harcourt 
House, residence of 
Duke of Portland. 


CAVENDISH 

SQUARE. 

Built 1730—1760. 

W. Equestrian Statue of 
Duke of Cumberland, 
Victor at Culloden, 1746. 
Statue of Lord G. Bentinck. 


E. 


S. 



I-1 I- 

Holles-street. 
In No. 16, 
Lord Byron 
was bom. 


0) * 
P u <i> 


CO 


Site of Leicester House. 

The “ Pouting-place ” of tAvo Princes 
of Wales. 

J I_I I_I I— 


To Piccadilly. 


N. 


To Covent-gardon. 


Sir Joshua Rey¬ 
nolds’s house, 
now Messrs. Put- 
lick & Simpson’s 
auction rooms. 


LEICESTER 

SQUARE. 

W. Built 1670—1690. E. 


J 


Haymarkct. S. 

-1 I- 

St. Martin’s-court. 

Sir Isaac Newton’s house and 
observatory. 


Alhambra — Tum¬ 
bling and Music 
Performances. 

Site of John Hun¬ 
ter’s house and 
museum. 

Sablonniere Hotel. 
In northern half 
Hogarth lived. 

Green-street. In 
No. 11 lived 
Woollett the en¬ 
graver. 
















XXXTT.—PRINCIPAL SQUARES. 


303 


o 

I 

'p 

<2 

X 

O 

o 

H 


Soho Bazaar, es¬ 
tablished by Mr. 
Trotter. 


House of Sir Jos. 
Banks and of 
Robert Brown, 
botanist. 


J L- 

N. 


SOHO SQUARE. 

W. Built 1670-1690. E. 
Statue of Charles II. 


-1 


“T r- 


Whole south side 
originally occupied 
by 

Monmouth House. 


a 

<y 


Site of 

Bedford House, 


pulled down 
£ in 1800. 

j 1- 

N. 


No. 6 was Isaac, 
Disraeli’s, the 
author. 


Statue of C. J.Fox, 
by 

Sir R. Westmacott. 

W. E. 

BLOOMSBURY 
SQUARE. 

Built 1690—1710. 

S. 

-—~l I- 


Site of Lord 
Mansfield’s house, 
destroyed in riots 
of 1780. 
















304 


XXXII.—PRINCIPAL SQUARES 


J 


L 


N. 


BEDFORD 

SQUARE. 

^Y. E. 

Built 1800—1806. 


6, Lord Chancellor 
Eldon lived here 
in 1815. During 
the Corn Law 
Riots, this house 
was sacked by 
the mob, March 
10. Troops occu¬ 
pied the square. 


n 


7, Sir Robert Inglis 
d. 1855. 


^ OJ 
S ~ 

S 

tQrS 
«2 3 


d o 
pj 


N. 

RUSSELL SQUARE. 

Built 1800—1806. 

W. E. 

Statue of Francis Duke 
of Bedford, 
by 

Sir R. Wcstmacott. 

S. 


71, Lord Chancellor 
Loughborough 
lived here. 

67, Mr. Justice Tal- 
fourd lived here. 

65, Sir ThomasLaAV- 
rence died here. 









JQ CO . 

ns s to 
o 

2 §.2 


Opera m 
Covent Garden. ^ 


Floral Hall. 


King-street. 


Church of St. Paul’s, 
Covent Garden, 
built by Inigo 
Jones. 


Henrietta-street. 



SB 
S to 


Market. 


g 

o 

o 


O 


S 




VI 




VI 

o 

CO 


Whetstone 
Park at back, 
New Hotel. 


Great Queen-st. 
Newcastle House at 
corner. Here lived 
Lord Chancellors 
Somers, Cowper, 
and Harcourt, and 
the Minister Duke 
of Newcastle. 
Lindsey House, 
(with 2 vases),built 
by Inigo Jones. 

Duke-street. 




1_ 

N. 


LINCOLN’S-INN 

FIELDS. 

Lord Wm. Russell 
beheaded in centre. 

Built 1619-1636. 


1 


S. 


Stone 

buildings. 


Lincoln’s Inn Hall, 
I*. Hardwick, Arct. 


To Lincoln’s Inn. 


~\ I-- -1 r 

Royal College of Surgeons. 

Here stood Sir William Davenant’s Theatre. 


X 



















XXXIT,—PRINCIPAL SQUARES, 


Q) 

c 

03 


X 


National Gallery and Royal Academy of Arts. 
Wilkins, archt. 


c3 

Xfl 


Church of 
St. Martin’s-in-the 
Fields. 
Gibbs', archt. 


Pall-mall East. 


College of 
Physicians. 


Union Club. 


Cockspur-street. 


□ □ 

Statue of 
George IV., 
by Chantrey, 

TRAFALGAR SQUARE. 

Built 1829—1850. 

Tho Fountains, of Peterhead 
Granite. 


To the Strand. 


liK 

ft £3^ 

Nelson 
Vr, Column. 


□ 

50 P 2 

c (t> 2 

. o 

o >-• 


Morley’s Hotel. 


Char. Cross branch 
of Gen. Post Office. 
Letters received later 
than at other offices. 


I Landseer’s * Electric Telegraph 

(5 Lions. Office (distinguished by a ball 
at top), communicating with 
all parts of Europe, open night 
and day for messages. 


-h 

Statue of Charles I. by Le Soeur. 
Site of Queen Eleanor’s Cross. 
Place of execution of Regicides. 


Whitehall. 















INDEX 




** The figures followed by an asterisk (*) refer to the pages of “ Intro 
ductory Information ” at the commencement of the volume. 


A. 

Abney Paek Cemetery, 135 
Academy, Royal, 57, 190 
“ Achilles,” Statue, 27 ; 262 
Addison, Joseph, last moments 
of, 20 

Adelphi Theatre, 185 
Admiralty, the, 56 
Agricultural Hall, and Cattle 
ShoAv, 74 

Albert Memorial, 27 
Aldersgate-street, Plan of, 298 
Aliens, 52^ 

Almack’s, 188 
Alsatia, 259 

Anne, Queen, 4; and her hus¬ 
band, 8 

Antiquaries, Society of, 57, 195 ; 

library and museum, ib. 
Antiquities in London, 48* 
Apostolic Church (Irvingite), 130 
Apothecaries’ Hall, 244 
Apsley House, pictures, «S:c., 
10 

Archteological and antiquarian ob¬ 
jects, 48* 

Architectural Museum, 173 
Architects, Institute of, 196 
Architects’Works in London, list 
of, 47* 

Arlington-street, 271 
Armourers’ Company, 245 
Army, British, &c., 65 
Army and Navy Club, 225 
Artillery Company and Ground, 
246 

Art (Galleries of), 45* 

Artists’ Studios, 63* 

Ashburnham House, Westm., 110 
Asiatic Society, 198 
Astley’s Theatre, 186 
Astronomical Society, 199 


Athenaeum Club, 228 
Audit Office, 57 

Austin Friars—Dutch Church, 133 


B. 

Bacon (Lord), where born, 247 
Bank of England, 62; weighing 
and printing machines, 63 
Bank Parlour, 63 
Bancroft, Francis; glazed coffin 
of, 121 

Barber Surgeons’ Hall, 245 
Barclay and Perkins’s brewery, 78 
Bartholomew the Great (St.) 

church of, 117; Fair, 75 
Bartholomew’s (St.) Hospital, 211; 
quantities of medicaments 
used, 212; lecturers, &c., 213 
Bath House, its fine collection of 
pictures, 21 

Baths and Wash-houses, 222 
Battersea Park, 34 
Bavarian Chapel, 132 
Baynard Castle, 292 
Bayswater, origin of name, 292 
Becket (St. Thomas) where born 
247 

Bedford-square, Plan of, 304 
Bedlam, 213 

Belgrave-square, Plan of, 299 
Belgravia, 13* 

Berkeley-square, Plan of, 300 
Bethlehem Hospital, 213 
Bible Society. 223 
Billingsgate Market, 75 
Birth-places of eminentpersons, 247 
Bishopsgate-strcet, Plan of, 291 
Blackfriars Bridges, 46 
Blind, Schools and Asylums for 
the, 222 

Bloomsbury-square, Plan of, 303 
X 2 




308 


INDEX. 


I51ucher, 4 

Boar’s Head in East Cheap, 20*, 259 

Bonner’s, Bp., Coal Hole, 279 

Botanical Gai'dens, Kegent’s-park, 
32; Kew, 36 

Bow-street, Covent-gardcn, 284 

Bow Church, and Bow bells, 124 

"RvpwaiHpq 7ft 

Bride’s (St.) Church, Fleet-street, 
123; source of Wren’s idea of 
its construction, ib. 

Bridewell, 148; Picture in Court¬ 
room, ib. 

Bridges over the Thames; London, 
45; South-Eastern Railway 
Bridge, 46; Southwark, ib.-, 
Alexandra Bridge, ib. ; Black- 
friars, ib.-, Hungerford, ib.-, 
AVaterloo, 47; AVestminster, 
ib. ; Lambeth, 48; V auxhall, ib:, 
Pimlico Railway Bridge, ib.-, 
Pimlico Suspension Bridge, 
ib. 

Bridgewater House and Picture 
Galleiy, 17 

British ftiusemn, regulations,mode 
of admission to the Reading 
Room, 151; ground plan, 152 ; 
origin and progress of the 
Museum, 153; antiquities, 
154; Townley collection, ib.; 
Lycian Room, ib.; Egyptian 
antiquities, IM, the Rosetta 
Stone, 155; Assyrian anti¬ 
quities, ib.; Elgin marbles, 
156; Phigalian marbles, 158; 
.iEgina marbles, ib. ; Bodroum 
marbles, j 5.; Farnese marbles, 
ib.; Minor Egyptian anti¬ 
quities, ib. ; vases and Etrus¬ 
can Rooms, 159; Bronze Room, 
b.; Portland Vase and its 
mishaps, 160; Medal Room, 
ib.; British and Medieval 
Room, ib. ; the library of 
printed * books, ib, ; reading- 
room regulations, 162; manu¬ 
scripts, 163; plan of Reading- 
Room, 164; Print Room, 165 ; 
naturalhistory]collections, ib .; 
zoology, ib.; mineralogy and 
geology, 166; fossil organic 
remains, 167; northern zoo¬ 
logical gallery, 168; insects 
and Crustacea, ib.; botanical 
collection, ib.; portraits, ib.; 
miscellaneous curiosities, 169 

Brompton Cemetery, 135; “Boil¬ 
ers,” 173 


Brooks’s Club, 226 
Brunei, Sir I. K., 48 
Buckingham Palace, 1; pictures, 2 
Budge Row, 242 

Bunhill Fields Burial Ground, 
136; its chief tenants, ib. 
Bunyan, 136 

Burial places of eminent persons, 
248 

Burials in London, 134 
Burlington House, 59 
Byron (Lord), where born, 247 
Byron, AA’'m., 5th Lord; his duel 
with Mr. Chaworth, 264 


C. 

Cabs, regulations and fares, 34* 
Camden (AVilliam), bom, 247 
Camelford House, 288 
Cannon Street Railway Terminus 
73 

Canova, anecdote of, 47 
Canterbury, Archbishop, residence 
of at Lambeth Palace, 9 
Canterbury Hall, 44* 

Carlton Club, 226 
Carpenters’ Hall, 246 
Cartoons of Raphael, 175 
Cattle Market, 74 
Cavendish-square, Plan of. 302 
Cfesar, Sir Julius; his curious 
monument and epitaph, 121 
Cemeteries and Bui'ial Grounds, 
134—137 

Chancery, Inns of, 146 
Cliancery-lane, Plan of, 282 
Chapel Royal, St. James’s, 5 
Chapels, Foreign, 132 
Chapter House, Westminster, 111 
Charing Cross, 257; to AA’^est- 
minster Abbey, Plan of, 283 
Charing Cross Hospital, 219 
Charing Cross Railway Station, 73 
Charitable Institutions and Hospi¬ 
tals, 211—223 

Charles I., parting with his child¬ 
ren, 4; execution, 6; the 
Charing Cross statue, 261 
Charles II., born, 4; statue, 262 
Charter-House School and Hospi¬ 
tal, 203 

Chatham (Earl of), born, 247 
Chaucer, where born, 247 
Cheapside, 278; Plan of, 279 
Chelsea Hospital, 216 
Chesterfield House, 19 
Chiswick, 52* 



INDEX. 


309 


Christ's Hospital, 205; eminent 
scliolars, 206; mode of admis¬ 
sion, 207 

Churches and Places of Worship, 
Cathedral and Episcopal, 95— 
133; Dissenting, 130,131; Ko- 
man Catholic, 131 ; Foreign 
132 ; Jews, 133 
Churches of London, 95—133 
“ City,” The, 11*, 15* 16* 

City of London School, 209 
City Halls and Companies, 231— 

246 

City Prison, Holloway, 151 
City Road, 233 
Clement’s Inn, 146 
Clerkenwell Sessions House, 140 
Clothworkers’ Hall, 244 
Clubs and Club Houses, 22*, 224— 
231 

Coal Exchange, 72; number of 
Seamen employed, ib. 
Cockney, origin of the word, 232 ; 
Cold Bath Fields House of Correc¬ 
tion, 150 

College, Heralds’, 194 
College of Physicians, 193 
College of Surgeons, 194 
Colleg-'S and Schools, 199—210 
Colliers, Regulations of the port 
of London relative to, 45 
Colney Hatch Cemetery, 135 
Colonial Office, 50 
Commerce of London, 51, 28* 
Commercial buildings, banks, &c., 
62—73 

Commercial Docks, 71 
Companies of London, and their 
Halls, 237—246 
Concerts and Music, 44* 
Conservative Club, 227 
Constitution Hill, 31 
Copenhagen Fields, 74 
Com Exchange, 72 
Comhill, description of, 280; Plan 
of, ih. 

Cornwallis (Lord), where born, 

247 

Corporation of London, 231—235 
County Courts, 140 
Court of Probate, 61 
Court (Presentation at) 5. 

Courts of Law and Justice, 137— 
141 

Covent Garden Market, 76 ; Plan 
of, 303 

Covent Garden Opera House, 
184 

Cowley, where born, 247 


Cowper, the poet, suicidal inten¬ 
tions of, 52 

Cremorne Gardens, 44^ 

Crimean Memorials, 262 
Cromwell, Oliver, last moments of, 
136; his inauguration, 138 
Crystal Palace, site of first, 27 
Crystal Palace at Sydenham, 61* 
Custom House, 51 

D. 

Danish Church, 133 
De Foe, 136 

‘Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 222 
Debtors’ Prisons, 150 
Deptford, 25* 

Design, Government School of, 210 
Devonshire House, 13 
Dining and Supper places, 42*—43* 
Dissenters’ Chapels, 130,131 
Dividends, payment at Bank, 64 
Docks; West India, East India, 
St. Katherine’s, London, Com¬ 
mercial, Victoria, Surrey, 67 
—71 

Doctors’ Commons, 61 
Dogs, Isle of, 27*, 298 
Domesday Book, 61 
Dorchester House, 25 
Downing-street, 49, 50 
Drainage, main, 80 
Drapers’ Hall and Gardens, 239 
Drawing rooms (Presentation at) 5. 
Dreadnought, Seamen’s Hospital- 
Ship, 222 

Drury-lane, Plan of, 281 
Drury-lane Theatre, 184 
Dulwich Gallery of Paintings, 
52* 175 

Dupin, M., on Waterloo Bridge, 
47 

E. 

East India Docks, 68 
East Indian Museum, 180 
East London Railway, 49 
Eastern Railway, Great, Termi¬ 
nus, 73 

Electric Telegraph, 30* 
Ellesmere, Earl of; his mansion 
and gallery, 17 

Eminent persons; London birth¬ 
places of, 247; bnrial-places 
248—251 ; dwelling-places, 

252—257 

Engineers, Civil; Institution of, 
196 



310 


INDEX. 


Environs of London, 50*; 34—37, 
172—177 

Epsom Races, 32* 

Events, remarkable, 257—261 
Exchequer, office of the, 51 
Excise Office, 58 
Excursions, 50*, 51* 

Execution, Public, 148—150 
Exhibitions, Free, 151—183 
Exeter Hall, 187 

Exhibition of Royal Academy, 191 
Exhibitions in general, 44* ; of 
pictures, 45*, 46*. (See Mu¬ 
seums,) 

F. 

Fabhingdox SIarket, 77 
Fishmongers’ Hall, 240 
Fish-street-hill, Plan of, 291 
Flaxman Museum, 200 
Fleet Prison, the late, 151 
Fleet-street, Plan of, 277 
Flower Market, Covent Garden, 
77, 184 
Foe, De, 249 
Fogs in London, 10* 

Foreign Churches and Chapels, 
132, 133 

Foreign Office, 50 ; Money, 32* 
Foreigners, Hints to, 30*; Hotels 
for, 38* 

Foundling Hospital, 220; the 
Chapel, 221 

Fox (C. J.), where born, 247 
Fox, Geo., 136 
Franklin Relics, 182 
Free Exhibitions. {See Museums.) 
Free Hospital, 219 
French Hospice, 220 
French Protestant Churches, 132, 
133 

French Roman Catholic Chapel, 
132 

G. 

Garrick Club, 229; its pictures 
229, 230 

Geographical Society, 198 
Geological Society, 198 
Geology (Practical), Museum of, 
182, 183 

George’s (St.), Roman Catholic 
Cathedral, 131,132 
George’s (St.), Church, Hanover- 
sqiiare, 129 

George’s (St.), Hospital, 216 
George II. and his Queen, 4, 8; 
.iunction of their remains, ICO 


George III., statue of, 262 
George IV. born, 4; statue of, 232 
German Lutheran and Evange¬ 
lical Chapels, 132 
Globe Theatre, site of, 259 
Goldsmiths’ Hall, 240 
Government Offices and Establish¬ 
ments, 49—62 

Gi’acechurch-street, Plan of, 291 
Gray, where born, 247, 280 
Gray’s Inn, and Gray’s Inn Gar¬ 
dens, 145, 146 

Great Queen-street, Lincoln’s-inn- 
fields, Plan of, 284 
Greek Chapel, 133 
Green Park, 31; objects to be ob¬ 
served, ib. 

Greenwich Hospital, 27*, 51*, 217; 
Chapel, &c., 218 

Greenwich Park, and Observatory, 
34; Whitebait and Fish Din¬ 
ner, 35 

Gresham, Sir Thomas, 65, 66,121 
Grocers’ Hall, 238 
Grosvenor House, pictures, &c., 15, 
16 

Grosvenor-place, Plan of, 287 
Grosvenor-square, Plan of, 299 
Guards’ Club, 225 
Guildhall, 234 
“ Guildhall Library,” 235 
Guy’s Hospital, 215 
Guy of Warwick, effigy of, 289 
Gymnasium, German, 189 


H. 

Haberdashers’ Hall, 2i3 
Halicarnassian Marbles, 158 
Hallowell, Capt., his present to 
Lord Nelson, 116 
Hampstead and Highgate, 52* 
Hampton Court, 51* 
Hanover-square, Plan of, 301 
Harcourt House, 22 
Haymarket (the street so called), 
Plan of, 286 

Haymarket Theatre, 185 
Helen’s (St.), Bishopsgate, and its 
interesting monuments, 121, 
122 

Hamilton Place, 268 
Heralds’ College, 194 
Hertford House, and pictures, 22 
Hervey, John, Lord; scene of his 
duel with Piilteney, 31 
Hicks’s Hall, 140 
Highgate Cemetery, 135 





INDEX. 


311 


Higli-street, Southwark, Plan of, 
293 

Highwayman, exploit of a, 17 
Hill’s (Rowland) Chapel, 131 
Hogarth, where born, 247 
Holbom, 274; Plan of, 275 
Holborn Hill Viaduct, 275 
Holdemesse House, 22 
Holford, R. S., Esq., mansion and 
pictures of, 25 

Holland House, anecdotes con¬ 
nected with it, 52*, 20; epitaph 
of Lord H., ib. 

Home Office, 50 
Holloway City Prison, 151 
Hope, H. T., Esq., M.P., picture 
gallery, 23 
Horse Guards, 55 
Horsemonger-lane Gaol, 148 
Horticultural Garden and So¬ 
ciety, 199 

Hospitals and Charitable Institu¬ 
tions, 211—223 
Hotels, 38* 

Houses and dwelling-places of 
eminent persons, 252—257 
House of Correction, 150 
House of Commons, 41 
Houses of Parliament, 37-43; mode 
of admission to hear debates, 
42 

Humane Society, Royal, 222 
Hungerford Bridge, 46 
Hyde Park, 26; its attractions, 26, 
27; plan of. 28 

1 . 

Improvements, 54* 

India Board, 50 
Inland Revenue Office, 57 
Inns, 38* 

Inns of Court and Chancery, 141 
—147; their yearly rental, 147 
Institute of Architects, 198 
Institution of Civil Engineers, 193 
Institutions and Societies, 189— 
210 

Intramural burials, hoiTors of, 134 
Ironmongers’ Hall, 243 
Irvingite Cburch, 130 
Italian Opei’a Houses: Her Ma¬ 
jesty’s Theatre, 184; Covent 
Garden Opera, ib. 


J. 

James’s (St.) Church, Piccadilly, 
127 ; its font by Gibbons, ib. 


James’s (St.) Hall, 42*; 188 
James’s (St.l Theatre, 187 
James’s (St.) Palace, 3; drawing¬ 
rooms, levees, mode of pre¬ 
sentation, 5; Chapel, 5 
James’s (St.) Park, 29; plan of, 
30, 31 

James’s (St.) Square, Plan of, 301 
James’s (St.) Street and its nota¬ 
bilities, 270; Plan of, 271 
Jews’, 15*; Synagogue, Great 
Saint Helens, 133 
Joe’s, 280 

Johnson, Dr., at Thrale’s Brewery, 
78 

John’s (St.)Gate, Clerkenwell, 257 
Jones (Inigo), where born, 247 
liis Works, 47* 

Jonsoti (Ben.), where born, 247; 

where buried, 104 
Junior United Service Club, 225 
Judges, salai’ies of the, 138 

K. 

Katherine’s (St.) Docks, 69 
Katherine’s (St.) Hospital, 32 
Kensal Green Cemetery and its 
tenants, 134, 135 
Kensington Palace, 8 
Kensington, South, Museum, 172; 
Government School of De- 
liiga at, 210 

Kensington Gardens and the Ser¬ 
pentine, 35 

Kew Botanical Gardens 52*, 36 
King’s College and School, 201 
King's College Hospital, 219 
Kneller, (Sir Godfrey,) his dying 
observation, 112 


L. 

Lamb, Charles, “ true works,” 182; 

where be lived, 254 
Lambeth Bridge, 48 
Lambeth Palace, O,-' 10 
Langham Place and Church, 272 
273 

LansdowTie House, 16 
Law Courts. {See Westminster 
Hall; Inns of Court, 141) 

Law Courts, New, 137, 236 
Laws relating to Foreigners, 52* 
Leadenhall Market, 77 
Learned Societies and Institu¬ 
tions, 189—199 

Leicester-square, Plan of, 3r.2 
Letters, postage of, 37*. See Post 
Office.) 





312 


INDEX, 


Levees, 5 

Libraries—Brit. Museum, 160 
City of London, 235 
London Library, St. James’s 
Square, 199 

Lincoln’s Inn, 144; its chapel, 
ball, and library, 144, 145 
Lincoln’s-Inn-fields, Plan of, 305 
Linnaean Society, 199 
Livings, value of, 95 
Lloyd’s Rooms, 64; Lloyd’s Re¬ 
gister, 65 

Lock Hospital, Chapel, and Asy¬ 
lum, 221 

Lodgings, 38*—41* 

“ Lollards’ Tower,” The, 9 
London, geographical position of, 
its population, 9*; statistics of 
its supplies of food, sewerage, 
&c., 10*; its boundaries — 
Westminster, 12*; Tyburnia 
and Belgravia, 13*; Regent’s 
Park, Marylebone and Blooms¬ 
bury, 14* ; “ The City,” 

15*; Spitalfields and Bethnal 
Green, Clerkenwell and Is¬ 
lington, the Surrey side, Shad- 
■well and Rotherhithe, 16*; 
bearings of the streets, 17*; 
its railways, &c., 18*; how 
to see the Metropolis, .and 
objects of interest on the 
various routes, 19*; the 
Thames, and objects on its 
banks, 24*; general hints 
to strangers, 30*; foreign 
money, opera, races,' public 
dinners, sports ; trial by juiy, 
32* 33* ; cab fares and regu¬ 
lations, luggage, 34*; omni¬ 
buses, 36* ; hotels and lodg¬ 
ings, 38*; restaurants and 
dining houses, 41*—43* ; sup¬ 
per houses, ib.\ amusements 
and objects of interest, 
43* — 48*;' revenue of City, 
233; eminent persons born in, 
247. {See also Post Office, Ex¬ 
hibitions, Remarkable Places, 
&c.) 

Ijondon and North-Western Rail¬ 
way Station, 72 

London and Suburban Railways, 
54* 

London, Bishop of, 10 
London Bridge, 45, 20*; passenger 
traffic on, 60* 

Loudon Bridge Railway Station, 
72 


London, Chatham, and Dover 
Termini, 73 

London Docks, 69; the Wine 
Stores, 70 

London Hospital, 219 
London House, 10 
London Institution, 198 
London Library, 199 
London Stone, 47*, *257 
London University, 199 
London Wall, 257 
Lord Mayor’s Show, 232; dinner, 
bill of fare, 235 
Lyceum Theatre, 185 
Lyon’s Inn, 146 

M. 

Magdalkn Hospital, 221 
Magnus (St.) Chui’ch, London 
Bridge, 126 
Manchester House, 22 
Mansion House, the, 232 
Marble Arch, 27 
Markets, 74—78 
Marlborough House, 7 
Marshalsea, site of, 261 
Martin-in-the-Fields (St.) Church, 
128 ; eminent persons buried 
in,129 

Martin (John), the painter, 44 
Martin’s (St.) Hall, 188 
Marylebone (St.) Church, 129 
Mary-le-Bow (St.) Church, Cheap - 
side, 124 

Mary-le-Savoy (St.), Strand, 123 
Mary Wooluoth (St.) Church, 
128 

Mary’s (St.) Hospital, 219 
Mary’s (St.) Roman Catholic 
Chapel, 132 

Mercers’ Hall and Chapel, 238 
Merchant Taylors’ Hall, 242 
Merchant Taylors’ School, 207; 
charge for education, 208; 
eminent scholars, 209 
Metropolitan Cattle Market, 74 
Metropolitan Board of Works, 54* 
Metropolitan Railway, 54* 
Michael’s, St., Cornhill, 126 
Midland Railway Station, 73 
Millbank Prison, 150 
Milton, where born, 247; lived, 
253; buried, 249 
Mint, the Royal, 58 
Missionaries’ Museum, 183 
Mob of London, 30* 

Model of St. Paul’s, 173 
Model Prison, 150 



INDEX. 


313 


Model Lodging Houses, 222, 223 
Money, foreign, 32* 

Money Orders, 52 
Montague House, its portraits and 
miniatures, 15 

Montagu, (Lady Mary W.), where 
born, 247 

Monument, the, on Fish-street 
Hill, 236; suicides from its 
gallery, 237 

Monuments, Public, 261 
More, (Sir Thomas), where born, 
247; where executed, 94 
Munro Collection, 25 
Museums and Galleries of Art, to 
which admission is free, 151— 
183. British Museum, 151; 
South Kensington, 172; Dul¬ 
wich Gallery, 175; Geological, 
182; Missionaries’, 183; Na¬ 
tional Gallery, 169; National 
Portrait Gallery, 172; Soane 
Museum, 179; Surgeons’ Col¬ 
lege, 177; United Service, 182; 
Vernon Gallery, 174; Sheep¬ 
shanks Collection, 174; Tur¬ 
ner Gallery, 172; Asiatic, 
198; Architectural, 173; East 
Indian, 180; of Economic Bo¬ 
tany. 37; Patents’ Museum, 
173. 

Musical Performances, 44* 

N. 

Napoleon’s Will, 61 
National Gallery, Trafalgar- 
square, 169—172 

National Life Boat Institution 
(Royal), 222 

National Portrait Gallery, 172 
Ned’s, 280 

Nell Gwynn, 29, 217, 229, 281 
Nelson, Lord, his only interview 
with Wellington, 50; Capt. 
Hallowell’s present to him, 
116; column to his memory, 
261; dress worn by him at the 
Battle of Trafalgar, 218; place 
of burial, 116 
New River, 79 
New Road, 283 
Newgate Market, 77 
Newgate Prison, 147 
Newgate-street, Plan of, 289 
Newspapers, 53* 

Norfolk House, and its historical 
records and pictures, 14 
Northern Railway, Great, Ter¬ 
minus, 73 


North London and London and 
North-Western City Termi¬ 
nus, 73 

Northumberland House, 11; its 
successive names and owners, 
t6.; pictures and objects of 
interest, 12 

Norwood Cemetery, 135 

Nunhead Cemetery, 133 


O. 

Old Bailey Sessions House 
139 

Omnibus Routes, 36* 

Opera Houses, 184 
Overy, St. Mary, 118 
Oxford and Cambridge Club, 229 
Oxford-street, description of, 283 


P. 

Painter Stainers’ Hall, 246 
Paintings, collections of, 46*, 9 
—25 

Palaces of the Sovereign:—Buck¬ 
ingham, 1—3; St. James’s, 
3—5; Whitehall, 5—7; Kens¬ 
ington, 8 

Pall Mall, 264; Plan of, 265 
Pancras-in-the-Fields, St., Old 
Church and monuments, 122 
New Church, 129 

Panoramas and Miscellaneous Ex¬ 
hibitions, 44* 

Park Lane, Plan of, 283 
Parks, Palaces, and Public Build¬ 
ings, Office of, 52 
Parks, Gardens, &c., 24*:—Hyde, 
26—28; St. James’s, 29—31; 
Green, 31; Regent’s, ib .; Plan 
of, 33; Victoria,34; Battersea, 
34; Greenwich, ih .; Richmond, 
33; Kensington, ib.\ Kew, 36; 
Zoological, 188 

Parliament, opening and proroga¬ 
tion of, 3,40 

Parliament Houses, 37—43 
Passports, 50 
Patents’ Museum, 173 
Paul’s (St.) Cathedral, 112; 
ground-plan, 115; its history, 
113; spoliation of Wren’s de¬ 
sign by James II., 114; mo¬ 
numents, ib.; clock room, 
whispering gallery, &c., 116, 
117 

Paul’s (St.) Cliurchyard, 117 



314 


INDEX. 


Paul’s (St.) School, 201; eminent 
scholars. 202 

Paul’s (St.), Coveut Garden, 
church and parish register, 
124 

Paymaster General’s Office, 54 
Peabody Gift, 222 
Peel, Sir Robert, mansion and pic¬ 
tures of, 23; room in which 
the late Sir Robert died, ib. 
Penitentiary and Pentonville 
Prisons, 150 
Penn, where born, 247 
Peter the Great’s Mulberry Tree, 
72; lived, 256 
Peter’s (St.) ad Vincula, 90 
Physicians, College of, 193 
Piccadilly, 266—268; Plan of, 269 
Picton, 116 

Pictures, collections of, public and 
private, 45*, 9—25 
Places which visitors ought to 
see, 48*—52* 

Pleasure Seeker’s List, 43*—52* 
Poets’ Corner, 106 
Pool ("The), 20* 24* 

Police Courts, 140 
Police of London, 141 
Polytechnic Institution, 44* 

Pope, where born, 247; where 
buried, 249 

Population of London, 12* 

Popular preachers, 53* 

Port of London, 26*, 43 
Portland, Duke of, mansion, 22 
Portrait Gallery, National, 172 
Portman-square, Plan of, 300 
Post Office,"52; income and extent 
of the office, ib .; money orders, 
ib .; general directions, 53; 
postal regulations, 37* 

Poultry, Plan of the, 279 
Practical Art (Department of), 
210 

Prerogative Will Office, 61 
Presentation at Coirrt, 5 
Prince Consort Memorial, 27 
Prince of Wales’ residence, 7 
Princess’s Theatre, 185 
Principal London Newspapers, 
53* 

Prisons, Gaols, &c., 147—151 
Private Collections of Paintings, 
&c., list of, 25 
Privy Council Office, 50 
Property-Tax Office, 58 
Public Offices, 49 
Pulteney, scene of his duel with 
Lord Hervey, 31 


Q. 

Queen’s opening Parliament, 40 
Queen, statues of, 40, 262 
Queen-street (Great), Lincoln’s- 
inn-fields. Plan of, 284 
Queenhithe, 292, 297 
Quotations from ; Aubrey, 124; 
Byrom, 209; Bishop Burnet, 
90; Cowper, 103; Cresacre 
More,90; Denham, 43; East- 
lake, 96; Flaxman, 103 ; 
Fielding.45; Garth, 244; Gay, 
60,77; Horace Walpole, 60, 
105; Henry Mayhew, 71; Hut¬ 
chinson (Mrs.), 92; Hogarth, 
220; Joe Miller, 106; Knight, 
70; Lamb, 109, 206; Ma¬ 
caulay, 90; Moore, 270; Noor- 
thouck, 122; Pennant, 122; 
Prior, 108; Pope, 56, 76, 93, 
105, 107, 108, 125; Quarterly 
Review, 19, 43, 47, 272; 

Rogers, 83; Roper, 94; Spen¬ 
ser, 142; Southey, 283 ; Shak- 
speare, 75, 82, 110, 143, 208; 
Sheridan, 270; Stow, 76, 82, 
91, 119, 125 ; Sir Christo¬ 
pher Wren, 127; Sir Harris 
Nicolas, 218; Sir Walter 
Scott, 20, 103, 194; Sir Wil¬ 
liam Chambers, 59; Theodore 
Hook, 147. 


R. 

Railway Stations, 18*, 72 
Reading Room, British Museum, 
161 

Record Office, GO 
Reform Club, 227 
Regent’s Park, 31; Plan, 33 
Regent-street, 23*, 272 ; Plan of, 
273 

Remarkable Events, places and 
sites connected with, 257—261 
Residences of Eminent Persons, 
256 

Restaurants, 41*—43* 

Richard Coeur de Lion, statue by 
Marochetti, 262 
Richmond Park, 35 
Rolls Chapel, 61, 282 
Roman Catholic Cathedral and 
Chapels, 131 
Roman London, 72 
Rookery, 283 

Rothschild, Baron Lionel de, Pic¬ 
tures and articles of vertu. 





INDEX. 


315 


Rothschilds’ Pillar, Royal Ex¬ 
change, 64 
Rotten-row, 26 
Rotunda, 'Woolwich, 61* 

Roubiliac, the Sculptor, 102 
Rowland Hill’s Chapel, 131 
Royal Academy of Arts, 67, 190 
—193 

Royal Academy of Music, 193 
Royal Exchange, 64; Lloyd’s 
Rooms and Register, 65—66 
Royal Humane Society, 220 
Royal Institution of Great Britain, 
196 

Royal Personages, statues of, 
261 

Royal Society, 67, 189; its por¬ 
traits, &c., 190. 

Royal Society of Literature, 197 
Russell-square, Plan of, 304 

S. 

Saddleks’ Hall, 246 
Sadler’s Wells Theatre, 186 
Salters’ Hall, 243 
Sardinian Chapel, 132 
Saviour’s (St.) Church, 118; ac¬ 
tors and poets buried in, 119 
Savoy, 276, Chapel, 123; Savoy 
Conference, ib. 

School of Design, 210 
Schools and Colleges, 199—210 
Scottish Churches, 131 
Sculpture to be seen, 46^^, 47* 
Seamen’s Hospital Ship, 222 
Season in London, 30* 

Selwyn, George, anecdote of, 20 
Serpentine River, 26 
Sewerage of London, 80 
Shakspeare’s Will, 61; his signa¬ 
ture, 235 

Sheepshanks’ pictures, 174 
Sights of London, 43*—50* 
Skinners’ Hall, 241 
Smitlifield, 74, 257 
Soane Museum, 179 
Societies and Institutions, 189— 
199 

Soho-square, Plan of, 303 
Somerset House and its offices, 
66; the watch legend—num¬ 
ber of windows, 68 
South Kensington Museum, 172; 
Government School of Design 
at, 210 

South Sea House, 291 
Southwark Bridge, 46 
Spanish Chapel, 132 


Spenser, where oi'u, 247 where 
died, 285 

Spurgeon’s Tabernacle, 53* 
Stables, Royal, 3 
Stafford House, 13,14 
Stamps and Taxes, office of, 58 
Standard, Coinhill, 280 
Staple Inn, 146 
State Papers, access to, 61 
Stationers’ Hall, 244 
Statistical Society, 199 
Statues, Public, of Royal and 
eminent personages, 261 
Steamboats on the Thames, 20*, 44 
Steel Yard, site of, 292 
Stephen’s (St.) Church, Walbrook, 
126; Chapel, West, 41 
Stephen’s (St.) Church, West¬ 
minster, 130 

St. John’s Gate, Clerkenwell, 257 
Stock Exchange, 66; mode of elec¬ 
tion, &c., ib. 

Stow (John), where born, 247 
Strafford (Earl of), where born, 
247; where executed, 94 
Strand, Plan of, 276 
Strangers (Hints to), 30*—34* 
Streets and thoroughfares of Lou¬ 
don; 9*—30*; plans and de¬ 
scriptions of the principal, 263 
—306; number of streets, 263; 
lengths of principal streets, ib. 
Studios of Artists, 53* 

Sunday Evening Services, 53* 
Supper Houses, 41*—43* 
Surgeons, College of; anatomical 
museum, 177 

Surrey Chapel (late Rowland 
Hill’s), 131 
SuiTey Theatre, 187 
Sussex, Duke of (the late); library 
and residence, 8 

Sutherland, Duke of, mansion, 13 
Swans on the Thames, 29* 
Swedish Church, 133 
Sydenham (Crystal Palace at), 61* 
Sydenham Dr. 264 


T. 

Tabard Inn, site of, 257, 293 

Tattersalls’and the Jockey Club, 
77 

Telegraph, Electric, 30*, 276 

Temple Bar, 235 ; traitors’ heads 
exposed on, 236; anecdote of 
Johnson and Goldsmith, ih. 

Temple Church (the) and its nota- 
bilitie.s, 119—121 




316 


INDEX. 


Temple, Inner and Middle; their 
Halls and historic associa¬ 
tions, 141—144 
Termini of Railways, 72, 73 
Thames Embankment, 44 
Thames, River; and objects of 
interest on its banks, 24»—29 
43—44; plan of the river, 294 
—298 

Thames-street, Plan of, 292 
Thames Frozen over, 46 
Thames Tunnel, 37*, 48 
Theatres, and Places of Amuse¬ 
ment, 43*, 184—189 
Thomas’s (St.) Hospital, 214 
Thoroughfares, principal, 263—306 
Times newspaper office, 49* 

Tower of London, 81; ground-plan, 
85; horse armoury, 84—87, 
Queen Elizabeth’s armoury, 
87; jewel-house, 88; Wel¬ 
lington Barracks, 90; St. 
Peter’s ad Vincula, ; inter¬ 
ments, 90, 91; eminent per¬ 
sons confined there, 91—93; 
persons mui’dered, 93; persons j 
born, ib. ; executions, 94 
Tower Hamlets Cemetery, 135 
'roxophilite Society, 32 
Trafalgar-square, Plan of, 306 
Traffic of London Bridge, 20*, 45 
Treasury, the, 49 
Trinity House, 66; High Water 
Mark, 45; Low Water Mark, 
46 

Tunnel under the Thames, 2G *; 

its construction, 48 
Turner Gallery of Pictures, 172 
Tussaud’s Wax Works, 44* 
Tyburnia, 13' 

Tyburn Gallows, 260, 288 

U. 

Union Club, 229 

United Service Club, 225 ; Junior 
ditto, ib. 

United Service Museum, 182 
University of London, Burlington 
House, 199 
University Club, 229 
University College, 200; school 
terms and fees, ib. 

University College Hospital, 219 

V. 

Value of Land in London, 16* 
Vauxball Bridge, 48 
Vernon Gallery, 174 


Victoria Cemetery, 135 
Victoria Docks, 70 
Victoria Park, 34' 

Victoria Railway Station, 73 
Victoria Theatre, 187 
Victoria Tower, 38 
Vintners’ Hall, 243 

W. 

Walker’s eulogy of club-life, 228 
Walks through London, 19* 
AValpole (Horace) where born, 247; 
his blazon of arms for White’s 
Club, 225 

War (Secretary of State' for), 
Offices of, 51 

Wa.sh-houses and Baths, 222 
Watch-face, Somerset House 
legend of the, 68 
AVater Companies, 79 
AVater Gate (by Nic. Stone), 25* 
AVaterloo, model of tlie Battle of, 
182 

AVaterloo Bridge, 47 
AVeavers’ Hall, 246 
Wellington,Duke of; his mansion, 
10; interview with Nelson, 
50; statues, 263; grave, 116 
AVesleyan Chapel, City-road, 131, 
283 

AVest India Docks, 68 
AVestern Railway, Great, Termi¬ 
nus, 73 

Westminster (City of), 12* 
Westminster Abbey, 95; hours 
of admission, 96; ground- 
plan, 99; chapels and tombs, 
96—109; monuments in the 
transepts, choir, and nave, 
102—106; Poets’ Comer, 106 
—108; cloisters, 110; the 
Chapter House, 111; eminent 
persons buried in the Abbey, 
111 , 112 

AVestminster Bridge, 47 
AVestminster Hall, 39; Law 
Courts, 137 

AVestminster Hospital, 219 
Westminster, Marquis of; his 
mansion, 15 

AVestminster School and its cele¬ 
brities, 202 

AVhite’s Club, 225; the blazon of 
its arms, ib. 

Whitebait, 43* 

Whitecross-street Prison, 150 
Whitefield’s Chapel, Tottenham- 
court-road, 18' 








INDEX 


317 


Whitehall Palace: its origin and 
destruction, 5; KingCharles’s 
execution, 6; paintings, sculp¬ 
ture, &c., 6, 7 
White Tower, 83 
Whittington Club, 230 
Will Office, 61 
Willis’s Rooms, 188 
Windows, number of, in Somerset 
House, 58 

Windsor Castle, 50* 

Woking Cemetery, 135 
Woods’ Office, 52 


Woolwich Arsenal, 51*; dcck- 
yani, ib. 

Wren’s Plan for rebuilding Lon¬ 
don, 15* ; his monument, 114 

Y. 

VonK Column, 261 


Zoological Gardens, Regent’s- 
park,32,188 


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